StarDesign™

Starch Range
Sustainably sourced
thickeners, emulsifiers
& sensory enhancers
based on waxy corn

CONFIDENTIAL. This document contains Cargill Confidential information. Disclosure, use or reproduction outside Cargill or inside
Cargill, to or by those who do not have a need to know is prohibited. © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Starch
Starch is one of the oldest and most versatile of
nature's ingredients. Starches are polysaccharide
granules extracted from cereals like rice, wheat,
and corn and of roots like tapioca and potatoes.

Corn
Cargill Beauty’s preferred source of starch is waxy
corn due to its high content of branched glucose
chains (amylopectine) that provides interesting
properties like high oil absorption power.

2 Texture Profiling System Toolbox © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Transparent
Sourcing
Starches are sourced from
non-GMO waxy corn
from in Europe
through the
Waxy Corn Promise™:
a sustainability farming
program launched in 2018

CONFIDENTIAL. This document contains Cargill Confidential information. Disclosure, use or reproduction outside Cargill or inside
Cargill, to or by those who do not have a need to know is prohibited. © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
Waxy Corn Promise™ - Benchmarked Silver against SAI Platform
Preservation of Control
biodiversity in pollution of
cultivated areas surface &
groundwater
resources

Preservation Improve water

of cultivated use efficiency
soil structure and reducing
and fertility the impact of
irrigation

4 Source : Cargill's Waxy Corn Promise | Sustainable Supply Chains | Cargill © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 75%
of German BPC consumers
think that natural/organic
products should be made in
an ethical manner

5 Source : Attitudes towards Natural Beauty - Europe - 2020 - Topline Questions - Mintel 78% Italy, 78% Spain, 73% France © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Focus on customer’s needs

“I want to create “I want one ingredient to

a creamy and rich texture, have more than one
while avoiding the function in the formula”
soaping effect and greasy
after-feel”

“I want to reassure
consumers by using nature
derived ingredients that are
sustainably sourced”

6 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

 Starch based ingredients

StarDesignTM Care StarDesignTM Ultra StarDesignTM Power

The thickening & The nature derived The powerful O/W
consistency agent for sensory enhancer for a emulsifier
creamy & rich textures with powdery touch with thickening & sensory
a matte effect enhancing capacities

7 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

StarDesign™Care

Thickener & consistency agent INCI:

without soaping effect Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

Great pick-up 93% nature derived (ISO 16128)

& fast penetration onto the skin Vegan suitable*

Creamy & rich textures Readily biodegradable

(OECD 301 B)

Matte finish Powder form – Cold soluble

Cold/Hot processable
Halal & Kosher
*The responsibility of a vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.
8 Please consult your own legal or regulatory experts to ensure suitability of the product with your preferred standard.
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
StarDesign™Ultra

Sensory enhancer INCI:

for a powdery touch Sodium starch octenylsuccinate

Reduces greasiness 96% nature derived (ISO 16128)

& tackiness Vegan suitable*

Oil absorbing Readily biodegradable

& mattifying effect (OECD 301 B)

Aluminium free Powder form

Cold/Hot processable
Halal & Kosher
*The responsibility of a vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.
9 Please consult your own legal or regulatory experts to ensure suitability of the product with your preferred standard.
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 StarDesign™Power

Emulsifier for 5-60% oil INCI:

content of all polarities Sodium starch octenylsuccinate &
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
Triple action :
1. Emulsion stabilizer 93% nature derived (ISO 16128)
at the oil-water interface Vegan suitable*

2. Thickener Readily biodegradable

of the water phase (OECD 301 B)

3. Sensory enhancer: no White Powder form

soaping effect, non greasy, Cold/Hot processable
non tacky Halal & Kosher
*The responsibility of a vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.
10 Please consult your own legal or regulatory experts to ensure suitability of the product with your preferred standard.
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Starch derived ingredient prototypes for inspiration

Versatility of starch derived ingredients

Skin Infusion Lotion Supreme Serum Facial scrub No more bad hair days Hydrating Body Balm
with StarDesignTM With StarDesignTM cream gel hair mask with with StarDesignTM Power
Power Ultra StarDesignTM Care StarDesignTM Care

11 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

 Skin infusion lotion (30% oil)
with StarDesign™ Power

Phase Trade Name INCI Supplier %WT

Water Aqua 61.27
A
FD+C Yellow 6 (0.5%) Aqua, CI 15985 Sensient 1.25
Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
StarDesign™ Power Cargill 1.50
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
A’
Glycerin Glycerin Cargill 2.00
Actigum™ VSX 20 Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum Cargill 0.50
AgriPure™ AP-75 R Brassica campestris seed oil Cargill 30.00
Fleur d’Oranger 793060 Perfume Symrise 0.60
B Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja (soybean)
Emultop™ Velvet IP Cargill 1.50
Oil
D-α Tocopherol Tocopherol Cargill 0.20
® Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and)
C Geogard ECT Lonza 1.00
Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
D Sodium Hydroxide (20%) Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide Merck 0.18
Characteristics
Process • StarDesignTM Power allows to emulsify up to 30%
1. Prepare phase A and add all ingredients in the tank.
2. Prepare A’: mix powders and glycerin to obtain a paste of oil content and thickens the lotion in synergy
3. Add A’ inside A and mix 4 min 4000 rpm (IKA)
4. When A+A' is homogenous, start the addition of the oil phase B while mixing
with ActigumTM VSX 20 leaving a pleasant skin feel
IKA 10000 rpm during 5 min • Appearance: salmon jelly lotion
5. Add C and mix again 1 min 10000 rpm
6. Adjust the pH with Sodium Hydroxide (20%) manually • pH: 5.0 – 5.5
• Viscosity**: 3000 - 5000 mPa.s
• Stability : passed 2 months stability at RT & T45°C

68% nature derived content according to ISO 16128 (including water)

12 **Brookfield RV DV-II +, spindle 4 , 20RPM, 2min, RT after 24 hours
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Supreme Serum
with StarDesign™ Ultra

Phase Name INCI Supplier % WT

Demineralized water Aqua 78.92%
A
Glycerin Glycerin Cargill 3.00%
StarDesign™ Ultra Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate Cargill 1.50%
B
Actigum™ CS 11 QD Sclerotium Gum Cargill 0.70% 94%
C
AXOL C 62 Pellets
Agri-Pure™ AP-75 R
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Brassica campestris (Rapeseed) seed oil
Evonik
Cargill
1.00%
4.00%
Natural Origin Content*
Organic Babassu Oil Orbignya oleifera seed oil Cargill 4.00%
Demineralized water Aqua 5.00%
D
HySilk Sodium Hyaluronate Contipro 0.10%
Pétales de Rose Parfum Aroma Zone 0.30%
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic
Geogard® ECT Lonza 1.00%
E Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
SunPURO Copper
Mica (and) Iron Oxide Sun Chemical 0.27%
(5% in water)
Sodium Hydroxide
F Sodium Hydroxide 20% 0.21%
(20% water solution) Characteristics
Process • A luxurious and premium face-serum with anti-aging
1. Premix HySilk with water (IKA, propeller stirrer) and leave it aside (Phase D)
2. Premix 5% SunPURO Copper in water and leave it aside benefits and an amazing sensoriality.
3. Weigh water and glycerin and mix with spatula (Phase A)
4. Mix powders C*EmTex 06328 and Actigum™ CS 11QD with a spatula (Phase B) • StarDesign™ Ultra as sensory enhancer in the
5. Add Phase B to Phase A while mixing with Rotor/Stator 10000 rpm 10 min (IKA Ultra
Turrax T25, S 25N-25G) formulation adds a powdery afterfeel.
6. Heat up Phase (A+B) and C separately to 65-75°C
7. Add phase C to Phase (A+B) while mixing with Rotor/Stator 10000 rpm 2 min (IKA Ultra • Appearance: light pink lotion
Turrax T25, S 25N-25G) • pH: 5.0 - 5.5
8. Cool down to <40°C while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer)
9. Add Phase D and E while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer) • Viscosity*: 4500 - 6500 mPa.s
10. Adjust pH to 5.0-5.5 while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer)
• Stability : passed 2 months stability at RT & T45°C
13 *according to ISO 16128 (including water) **Brookfield RV DV-II +, spindle 4 , 20RPM, 2min, RT after 24 hours © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Supreme Serum – test panel
Application

100 Higher absorbency than the luxury benchmark

≈
Equivalent smoothness after 2 minutes of
Absorbency***
60 application
50
40 Protocol
30
Wash forearm prior to the test with 10% Pureact WS conc
(INCI name: Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate) in water (pH ~5.5)
20
Blind test and randomized application
10
Application of each formula in duplicate
Greasy** 0 Smooth Products applied in duplicate
(25 µl/circle of 4 cm diameter (2 µl/cm 2)
with Gilson™ MICROMAN™ E - 10 - 100µl)
Scoring between 0 to 100

Panel
✓ 30 volunteers in Belgium
Sticky*** ✓ From 20 to 70 years old
Luxury benchmark ✓ 40% of men & 60% of women
Supreme Serum
After feel ✓ All skin types
2 minutes

14 Statistic analysis : * p≤ 0,05, ** p≤ 0,01; *** p≤ 0,001 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Face scrub cream-gel
with StarDesign™ Care

Phase Trade Name INCI Supplier %

A Demineralized Water Aqua 65.30
Glycerin Glycerin Cargill 15.00 >99%
Hydroxypropyl Starch
B StarDesign™ Care
Phosphate
Cargill 6.00 Natural Origin Content*
Actigum™ VSX 20 Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum Cargill 0.20
Ester 610 Caprylic/capric tryglycerides Mosselman 10.00
C
Oramix CG 110 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside Seppic 1.00
Aqua (and) Sodium
Euxyl® K712 Schulke & Mayr 1.00
benozate (and) Potassium sorbate
D Citric acid (50%) Citric acid 0.80
Florabeads jojoba 28/60 jade Jojoba esters Cargill 0.50
Fragrance Rose Couture 100% Nat Symrise 0.20 Characteristics
• This Facial scrub cream-gel has been designed to
Process show the synergy of StarDesign Care™ and Actigum™
1. Weigh water and glycerin. VSX 20 to create a creamy viscous smooth texture at
2. Mix powders of phase B with hand mixing spatula. low pH.
3. Add phase B to phase A under Silverson mixing at 6000rpm for 12minutes • Actigum™ VSX 20 allows to stabilize 10% oil without
4. Add phase C to B+A under Silverson mixing at 6000rpm for 5minutes more. the use of a traditional emulsifier and to suspend
5. Add separately ingredients of phase D and mix for few minutes more (marine propeller, 400
rpm). particles.
• Appearance: white cream with green suspended beads
• pH: 4.0 - 4.5
• Viscosity**: 15000 – 20000 mPa.s
• Stability: passed 3 months stability at RT & T45°C

15 *according to ISO 16128 (including water) **Brookfield RV DV-II +, spindle 6 , 20RPM, 2min, RT after 24 hours © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 No more bad hair days – Hair mask
with StarDesign™ Care

Phase Name INCI Supplier % WT

A Demineralized water Aqua 76,72%
Satiagel™ VPC 508 P Carrageenan Cargill 1,00%
B
StarDesign™ Care Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Cargill 4,00%
Olivem 1000 Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate Hallstar 1,00% 95%
Agri-pure™ AP-20 MB Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Cargill 3,00%
C
Sustainable Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed
Cargill 5,00%
Natural Origin
Butter
D
Demineralized water Aqua 2,00% Content*
preBIULIN FOS Inulin (and) Fructose GOBIOTICS 2,00%
HELIWET PG 650 Coco Glucoside Mosselman 1,00%
Provitamine B5 Panthenol (and) Aqua (and) Citric acid Aroma Zone 1,00%
Chocolat Blanc Parfum AromatEasy 1,00%
E Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic
Geogard® ECT Lonza 1,00%
Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
Natpure COL Brown LC817 (5% in
Caramel Sensient 1,14%
water)
F Sodium Hydroxide 20% Sodium Hydroxide 20% 0,14%

Process Characteristics
1. Preheat Refined Cocoa Butter in the oven at 50°C
2. Premix preBIULIN FOS in water (IKA, propeller stirrer) and leave it aside (Phase D) • This hair cream is rich in nourishing oils.
3. Prepare a premix of 5% Natpure COL Brown LC817 in water and leave it aside StarDesignTM Care adds structure and creaminess
4. Mix powders Satiagel VPC 508 P and StarDesignTM Care with a spatula (Phase B)
5. Heat water Phase A up to 50-60 °C and add Phase B into Phase A while mixing with Rotor/Stator 10000 to the formulation.
rpm 5 min (IKA Ultra Turrax T25, S 25N-25G)
6. Heat Phase (A+B) and C up to 65-75°C • Appearance : Light yellow cream
7. Add Phase C to Phase (A+B) while mixing with Rotor/Stator 10000 rpm 2 min (IKA Ultra Turrax T25, S • pH: 5.0 - 5.5
25N-25G)
8. Cool down to <40°C while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer) • Viscosity 17000 - 20000 mPa.s
9. Add Phase D and E while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer) • Stability : passed 2 months stability at RT & T45°C
10. Adjust pH to 5.0-5-5 while stirring (IKA, propeller stirrer)

16 *according to ISO 16128 (including water) ** RV DV 2T, spdl RV6, speed 20 rpm 2 min © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Hydrating Body Balm
with StarDesign™ Power

Phase Name INCI Supplier % WT

Demineralized water Aqua 48.60%
Actigum™ VSX 20 Sclerotium Gum (&) Xanthan Gum Cargill 0.20%
A
StarDesign™ Power
Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (&)
Cargill 4.00%
>73%
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
CoVera Aloe Barbandensis Leaf Juice Hallstar 5.00% Natural Origin Content*
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed
Agri-Pure™ AP-80 Cargill 25.00%
Oil
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed
B Cocoa butter Cargill 15.00%
Butter
Candelilla Wax Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Koster Keunen 1.00%
Vitamin E Tocopheryl Acetate Cargill 0.20%
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic
Geogard® ECT Lonza 1.00%
C Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
10% NaOH Sodium Hydroxide (&) water Fisher Chemical 0.30%
Characteristics
Process • Discover our rich and deeply nourishing body balm
1. Add water and CoVera in beaker and place on the blender. containg 40% oils. StarDesign™ Power provides the
2. Add ActigumTM VSX 20 slowly and allow to blend thoroughly until homogenous.
3. Then add StarDesignTM Power and allow to blend thoroughly until homogenous. No fish eyes or lumps formula with richness during application and with a soft,
should be visible. Heat to 75C.
cocooning and velvety after feel without greasiness.
4. Melt together oil phase B. Heat to 75C.
5. Slowly add oil phase to the aqueous phase and blend well using the propeller mixer. Once all oil is • It is used in combination with Actigum™ VSX 20 that brings
added to the water phase, transfer under homogenizer and homogenize for 2 minutes at 2500 rpm.
a unique sensory, even at low dosage.
6. Transfer the emulsion under the blender and with mixing cool to 25C.
7. At 25°C, add Geogard® and mix until homogenous. • Appearance: white cream pH: 6.0
8. Once the Geogard® is completely blended, stop the mixer and adjust pH with 10% NaOH
• Viscosity*: 550,000 - 650,000 cp@
• Stability : passed 2 months stability at RT & T45°C

17 *according to ISO 16128 (including water) **Brookfield LV, spindle 4 , 0.5RPM, 2min, RT after 24 hours © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Leveraging global knowledge across markets
5 Beauty Application Centers

18 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

 Product information

StarDesign™ Care StarDesign™ Ultra StarDesign™ Power

Source Waxy Corn sourced in Europe & UK

Nature derived
93% 96% 93%
(ISO 16128)

20kg (net) paper bags, 25 kg (net) PE bags 20 kg (net) paper bags

Packaging
hermetically sealed hermetically sealed hermetically sealed

Shelf life (months) 24 24 24

IECIC listed ✓ ✓ ✓

1 The responsibility of a vegan claim lies with the cosmetic manufacturer.

19 Please consult your own legal or regulatory experts to ensure suitability of the product with your preferred standard.
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.
 Get a around a
waxy corn farm
An interactive experience available at :

Beauty Of The World

(discoverbeautyoftheworld.com)

20 © 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

More on StarDesign™ Starch range

StarDesignTM
Range Technologies

Find out more about the different ways

waxy corn starch is turned into the
StarDesignTM range

StarDesignTM Power
Discover the chemistry that allows this
powerful O/W emulsifier/co-emulsifier to
have thickening & sensory enhancing
capacities in the same ingredient
Synergy with
hydrocolloids
Discover the synergies possible
between carrageenans and sclerotium
gum with starch derived ingredients

21 © 2020 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.

This document is provided for your information and convenience only. All information, statements, recommendations
and suggestions are believed to be true and accurate under local laws but are made without guarantee, express or
implied. WE DISCLAIM, TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY LAW, ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE and
FREEDOM FROM INFRINGEMENT and disclaim all liability in connection with the storage, handling or use of our
products or information, statements, recommendations examples and suggestions contained herein. All such risks are
assumed by you/user. The labeling, substantiation and decision making relating to the regulatory approval status of,
the labeling on and claims for your products is your responsibility. We recommend you consult regulatory and legal
advisors familiar with applicable laws, rules and regulations prior to making regulatory, labeling or claims decisions
for your products. The information, statements, recommendations and suggestions contained herein are subject to
change without notice.

The labeling, substantiation and decision making of all claims for your products is your responsibility. We recommend
you consult regulatory and legal advisors familiar with applicable laws, rules and regulations prior to making labeling
claims decisions.
© 2022 Cargill, Incorporated. All rights reserved.