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UPPER

CONSTRUCTION
V18.2

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UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1 3 1 6
1 4 Attaching Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt Hammering
Auto Folding Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker Fold/Turn
Manual Folding Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 Lacing (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
No Sew - Stacking
Upper Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Press (Component) Vac Tech
Toggle Lace
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing BOA Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 2 3
Stitching HF Welding
5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Foamposite
Counter Shaping Short (<20cm) HF Welding
Dynamic Flywire -
Medium (20-40cm) Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping
Long Straight (>40 cm) Dynamic Flywire -
2
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
4 10
Long Curve (40-60 cm) Sublimation
7 Molding
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Molding
Closed Seam 6
Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing Computer w/ Pallet
Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes
Computer w/ Fixed Jig 5
Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
46 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1
毛邊處理
1 4 3 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶
No Sew 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備
熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
對位斬-小部件 BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm) -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 4 面部熱壓
削皮 車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm)
昇華轉印
10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
6 昇華轉印
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3
電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
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UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: HOT MELT
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Hot Melt The application of glue (hot melt) onto the .240 Increments per SURFACE
surface of components. Average Considerations:
• Covers hot melt with spray, ball, or roller
Three different methods of application applications.
are used: spray, ball, and roller. • Accounts for the placement of
additional components (ex: collar
Can also apply to upper cleaning attachment to upper).
(required for bonding) and upper
**PMTS BP PF-04- Reinforcement
cementing using a brush. Placement (hot melt)
Spray Ball Roller

48

鞋面製程-貼合處理:熱熔膠
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
熱熔膠 將黏著劑(熱熔膠) 噴塗到部件表面的工序。 平 均 .240 以噴塗“部件面的數量”計算

*補充: 使用三種噴塗方式:噴膠(spray)、點膠 *補充: 條件說明:


包含水性膠 (ball)、過膠(roller) 包含黏完後貼合 包含噴膠、點膠、過膠方式的熱熔膠
Accounts for the placement of additional
也可應用於鞋面清潔(Upper Cleaning) 及用刷 components (ex: collar attachment to
具上膠 upper).

**PMTS BP PF-04- Reinforcement


Placement (hot melt)

噴膠 Spray 點膠 Ball 過膠 Roller

49
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: HOT MELT
PFC INFORMATION COUNT THE INDIVIDUAL SURFACES HOT MELT IS APPLIED TO

UPPER

1
Collar
1

1
COLLAR

COLLAR FOAM 2

50

鞋面製程-貼合處理:熱熔膠
PFC 範例 以噴塗“個別部件面的數量”計算上熱熔膠處理

UPPER

1
Collar
1

1
COLLAR

COLLAR FOAM 2

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50
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: HOT MELT
PFC INFORMATION COUNT THE INDIVIDUAL SURFACES HOT MELT IS APPLIED TO

1X UPPER CLEANING

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50

鞋面製程-貼合處理:熱熔膠
PFC 範例 以噴塗“個別部件面的數量”計算上熱熔膠處理

1X 鞋面清潔

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50
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: STICKER
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Sticker The use of a sticker (or double-sided .230 Increments per PLACEMENT
sticker) for fitting, placing, and Average Considerations:
attaching components on an upper • Accounts for extra pieces in additional to the main
prior to another process. component
• Accounts for removing the release paper
• Accounts for re-alignments
**IE PMTS BP PF04 - A Reinforcement Placement (double
sticker)

54

鞋面製程-貼合處理:自黏
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
自黏 鞋面往下一道流程之前, 使用上自 平 均 .230 以“放置次數”計算
黏或雙面膠的方式貼物件於鞋面
條件說明:
上 • 將自黏貼合於主要部位上
• 撕離型紙
• 重新對位

**IE PMTS BP PF04 - A Reinforcement Placement (double


sticker)

55
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: STICKER
PFC INFORMATION

COUNT AS 2 STICKERS

4 Sticker 3 Sticker

56

鞋面製程-貼合處理:自黏
PFC INFORMATION

COUNT AS 2 STICKERS

4 Sticker 3 Sticker

57
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: HEAT PRESS
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Heat Press Joining one or more materials/components together by .19 Increments per PRESS
pressing with heat. Average Considerations:
• Material movement in/out
• Press Button
This labor process is for CO Labels, toe box, and • Machine dwell time up to 10 sec.
reinforcement attaching ONLY.
**IE PMTS BP
• PF-07 (continue) Heat press
• SW-09 Stitching-Heat press CO label

Heat Gun Using a hot stick or gun to tack materials prior to .26 Increments per COMPONENT
Average Includes 2-6 heat gun.
another operations, outside the no sew process.
If a component, apply
(Such as some Prefit operations). # Heat gun ≤ 6/ Component Count as a 1
Heat gun
Use Heat gun for Pre attaching 3D no-sew. # Heat gun > 7/ Component can count 2
times of heat gun for that component.

**IE PMTS BP PF-07- Solder

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Press

鞋面製程-貼合處理:熱壓
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
熱壓 將一個或數個材料/部件透過熱處理加壓方式接合在一 平 均 .19 以“熱壓次數”計算
起 條件說明:
• 材料進行熱壓的移動有“進” 與 “出”
此熱壓程序僅適用於: C/O Lable、Toe Box (前襯)、 • 按下按鈕,啟動熱壓
• 設備停滯時間達10秒
Reinforcement attaching (貼補強)
**IE PMTS BP
• PF-07 (continue) Heat press
• SW-09 Stitching-Heat press CO label
熱熔膠槍預黏 在下一道工序前,使用熱熔膠槍將材料預先黏著在一起, 平 均 .26 以“部件數量”計算
如,NO-SEW 加工之外的其他“預黏”作業 預黏數量 2 ~ 6個,計算為 1 次

• 若單一部位中,使用熱熔膠槍預黏次
3D NO-SEW要使用熱熔膠槍預黏作業 數在2~6之間,計算為 1 次;
• 若單一部位的遇黏次數介於 7~12次之
間,則該部位可算為 2 次

*補充:熱熔膠預黏數量以6個為 1 單位,
每超過 6 個熱熔膠預黏數量增加 1 次

**IE PMTS BP PF-07- Solder

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Press
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: HEAT PRESS & HEAT
GUN
PFC INFORMATION

Labor Process Count Step

1. Identified a Labor Process

2. Count the Labor Process


• Heat Press per
component
• Heat Gun 熱熔膠槍預黏Heat gun
Each component is ≤ 6, heat
gun count as 2 x heat gun in 2x
total (Foxing and Tip box)

熱壓 Heat press
3x
60

鞋面製程-貼合處理:熱壓與熱熔膠槍
PFC 範例

計算製造流程的步驟

1. 辨識製造流程
2. 計算製造流程
• 每個部件的熱壓
• 熱熔膠槍預黏
3. 每個部件的熱熔膠槍預黏數
量都 ≤ 6,故熱熔膠槍預黏
Heat gun
計算總數的結果為 2 個 (後
套 FOXING 與 前 襯 TIP 2x
BOX)

Heat press
3x
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UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Apparatus Attaching metal eyelets or 0.21 + (# of placements on Count per # of PLACEMENTS on 1 SHOE
grommets to a component of 1 shoe -1) * 0.17
the upper. Both sides (top & bottom) of a grommet are
included this labor process.

**SW-12 Stitching- Brass Eyelet.

4 Placement 12 Placement 8 Placement

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鞋面製程-貼合處理
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
金屬眼扣 將金屬眼扣放置到鞋面的部件 0.21 + (一只鞋放的眼扣數量 以一只鞋上放金屬眼扣的數量計算
上 -1) * 0.17
金屬眼扣的雙面 (上與下) 已列入計算

**SW-12 Stitching- Brass Eyelet.

放4個金屬眼扣 放 12 個金屬眼扣 放 8 個金屬眼扣


(4 Placement) (12 Placement) (8 Placement)
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UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Upper Stacking Using pins to stack multiple .061 Increment per # of Pin
components onto pallet/jig for Use for HF, Upper Molding, Fixed Jig stitch,
second process. Upper Spray Painting and other process need
pins to stack.
Do not use for No Sew Stacking, Dynamic
Flywire, Computer stitching with pallet.

Inputs
- Count # of pins of EACH component for a ½ pair, or 1 shoe. If 2 components
stacking 1 time then be cut into each, still count as a ½ pair.
- Count Each jig placement as 1 pin.
- Count Each jig removal as 1 pin.
- Count Each Heat gun as 1 pin.
- Count as 1 pin for attaching only the component w/o pins.

Assumptions:
The minute includes:
- Open release paper and material separation
- Loading/Placing and Stacking component onto pallet before pin alignment.

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62

鞋面製程-貼合處理
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
鞋面堆疊 使用掛釘將數個部件堆疊在製 .061 以掛釘數量計算
(二次加工用) 具板上,便於進行第二次加工
HF、鞋面熱壓、固定式模板的電腦針車、鞋面噴漆
及其他需要使用到掛釘固定的加工作業。

以下項目不列入此計算規則:No-Sew 堆疊、
Dynamic Flywire, 交換式模板的電腦針車

Inputs
- 計算掛釘數量,以單只鞋的每 1 個部件做計算基礎。若有 2 個部件做 1 次性
堆疊,然後再裁斷成兩個部件,仍視為 1 只鞋
- 每 1 次放置製具視為 1 個掛釘
- 每 1 次移除製具視為 1 個掛釘
- 每 1 顆熱熔膠槍的預黏膠視為 1 個掛釘
- 貼合作業若部件沒有掛釘孔時,視為 1 個掛釘
計算方式:
秒值包含以下項目:
- 撕掉貼在部件上的離型紙
- 將部件放置並堆疊在模板上之後再對齊掛釘孔

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62
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: UPPER STACKING
PFC INFORMATION

Labor Process Count Step

1. Identified a Labor Process

2. Count the Labor Process UPPER STACKING x2

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62

鞋面製程-貼合處理:鞋面堆疊
PFC 範例

計算製造流程的步驟

1. 辨識製造流程
2. 計算製造流程
鞋面部件堆疊 x2

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UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: WEBBING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Webbing Attaching webbing into the hole/slit of upper. 0.047 The number of times a lace passes through a
loop, hole, or slit.

PFC INFORMATION
Webbing on the Stitching Case
Count how many times inserting webbing to the eyelet.

8 SLITS

12 SLITS

Cover Minutes to attach webbing into the upper on the stitching line.
68

鞋面製程-貼合處理:穿織帶
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
穿織帶 將織帶穿過鞋面孔洞或切口的程序 0.047 以織帶穿過鞋面套環、孔洞或 穿繩孔的次數
計算
*補充:包含穿D型扣

PFC 範例
針車作業的穿織帶範例
計算織帶要穿過多少個眼孔?

8 穿繩孔

12 穿繩孔

包含了針車產線上將織帶插入鞋面的作業秒值
69
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: LACING
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Lacing Inserting shoe laces through the eyelets of the .120 The number of times a lace passes
shoes. Average through a loop, hole, or slit.
Also apply for inserting strap.
It is normally performed by hand with and
without tooling support. ** IE PMTS 07 - Lacing

Lacing with or without a tool Count lace loops as 2


PFC INFORMATION

Count only the eyelets that are laced

14

Flywire loops are not


counted as an eyelet when
loops are directly aligned
with an existing eyelet.
70

鞋面製程-貼合處理:穿鞋帶
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
穿鞋帶 指將鞋帶穿過鞋子的眼孔之程序 平 均 .120 以鞋帶穿過鞋面套環、孔洞或穿繩孔的次
數計算
一般情況下是手工穿鞋帶,無論是否使用工具輔
助。 穿綁帶(Strap) 也適用此規則

** IE PMTS 07 - Lacing

計算鞋帶穿孔帶 (lace loop) 為 2 個


手工穿鞋帶,無論是否使用工具輔助。 PFC 範例

僅計算有鞋帶經過的眼孔

14

若Flywire 的繞線有對齊鞋面
現有的眼孔時,這些繞線不
適用於此規則且不被視為單
一眼孔
71
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: TOGGLE LACING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Toggle lace Insert shoelaces through the eyelets of the Factory Includes processes (Observed
shoes and then insert into the Toggle. Observed Minutes)
Minutes - Insert lace into shoe
- Insert lace into Toggle
- Tighten lace
- Insert lace cover

72

鞋面製程-貼合處理:鞋帶束緊器
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明

鞋帶束緊器 將穿好鞋面的鞋帶再套上鞋帶束緊器 工廠提供實際 包含以下程序:(工廠回饋測得秒值)


測得的時間
• 將鞋帶穿入鞋面
• 在鞋帶上套入束緊器
• 拉緊鞋帶
• 放入鞋帶保護片

73
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—ATTACHING: LACING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
BOA Inserting shoe laces through the eyelets of the Observed Observed Minutes includes:
shoes and lock with BOA Button Minutes
• Attaching wire to Holes
• Lock wire to BOA button
• Install BOA Button

PFC INFORMATION

74

鞋面製程-貼合處理:穿鞋帶
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
BOA鞋帶系統 鞋帶 (BOA的繫繩) 穿過鞋面的眼孔後,在用BOA 工廠提供實際 工廠回饋測得秒值包含:
鞋帶系統鎖住 測得的時間
• 將繫繩穿入鞋面孔洞
• 將繫繩用BOA 旋鈕鎖住
• 安裝 BOA 旋鈕

PFC 範例

75
UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1
1
Attaching 3 1 6
4 Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt
Auto Folding Hammering Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker
Fold/Turn Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Folding Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 2 Stitching 3
HF Welding
5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Short (<20cm) Foamposite
Counter Shaping HF Welding
Dynamic Flywire -
Medium (20-40cm) Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping
Long Straight (>40 cm) Dynamic Flywire -
2
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
Long Curve (40-60 cm) 4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Extra Long Curve (>60cm)
Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Closed Seam Molding
6
Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing Computer w/ Pallet
Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes
Computer w/ Fixed Jig
5
Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
76 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1
毛邊處理
1 4 3 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶
No Sew 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備
熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
77
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Short (<20cm) Manual Curve & Straight Stitching with < 20cm .266 Count per STITCH
Length. Average Any Stitching length out of the
Example: Lace Loop, Collar Lining Edge, range 80cm can apply Place
Mudguard to upper for PS, GS & TD, etc.
Holder
Medium (20-40cm) Manual Curve & Straight Stitching with 20- .488
40cm Length. Average
Considerations:
Example: Tongue to Tongue lining, Mudguard
• All Manual Machine types such as
to upper for men, women
Single, Double, Post , Flat, zig-zag,
Long Straight (40-80cm) Manual Straight Stitching with > 40cm Length. .564 Surge.
Example: Edge Upper Margin Average • Do not use for: Closed Seam,
Gathering, & Strobel stitch.
Long Curve (40-60cm) Curve Stitching with 40-60cm Length. .863
Example: Long Decoration stitching, collar Average **Refer to IE PMTS BP
lining full • SW-00 General Stitching
• SW-01 Manual Stitching
Extra Long Curve (60- Curve Stitching with > 60cm Length. 1.23 • SW-04 Binding
80cm) ** Very Rare, only happens for very long Average • SW-05 Zig-Zag
decoration manual stitching.
*** Length refer to thread calculation
with considering # of operations

78

鞋面製程- 針車
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
長度-短,(小於 20cm) 曲線及直線長度小於 20cm 平 均 .266 以針車長度
如:舌穿孔帶(Lace Loop)、反口裡邊緣 當針車長度超過 80cm 的範圍時,便
(Collar Lining Edge)、PS, GS 與 TD 鞋面的覆 放入Place Holder 頁面另外討論
片...等等
長度-中, 曲線及直線長度介於 20 – 40cm 之間 平 均 .488 條件說明
介於 20 – 40cm 之間 • 適用所有非自動的縫紉機,如:單
如:鞋舌與舌內裡接合、後套、反口裡上緣、
針、雙針機台、高頭車、平車、合
男/女鞋鞋面的覆片...等等
萬能、四針六線..等
• 不可用於:車翻、車縮頭、車中底
長度-長, 直線長度介於 40 – 80cm之間 平 均 .564 布
介於 40 – 80cm 之間 如:鞋面壓邊線
• .
長曲線, 曲線長度介於 40 – 60cm 之間 平 均 .863
介於 40 – 60cm 之間 如:較長的裝飾線、反口裡總長 **Refer to IE PMTS BP
• SW-00 General Stitching
超長曲線, 曲線長度60 – 80cm 之間 平 均 1.23 • SW-01 Manual Stitching
介於 60 – 80cm 之間 ** 極少發生,儘可能發生在超長的鞋面裝飾線 • SW-04 Binding
• SW-05 Zig-Zag

*** Length refer to thread calculation


with considering # of operations

79
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING
PFC INFORMATION

Based on PFC Version 17.8 every stitching line will have


stitching type marks.

S = Short
S-Short
M = Medium
LS = Long Straight
LC = Long Curve
ELC = Extra Long Curve

2 x Short (< 20cm)

** Stitching Guideline Instruction in the other document can use


as a Reference for Stitching Length/Type.

80

鞋面製程- 針車
PFC 範例

根據 PFC v17.8,每條針車線都有其對應的識別方式:

S = Short 短
M = Medium 中
S-Short
LS = Long Straight 長-直線
LC = Long Curve 長-曲線
ELC = Extra Long Curve 超長曲線

2 x 短 Short (< 20cm)

** 在其他文件中的針車操作手冊可做為針車長度/種類的參考

81
STITCHING GUIDELINES
THREAD CONSUMPTION PROJECT STITCHING LABOR PROCESS

• Actual Dimension Stitching Length


• 175 Model Studies Across Asia

82 | NIKE USE ONLY. KEEP IT TIGHT.



針車規範
針車人工作業
車線耗用專案
針車作業 如何計算 其他影響

車縫長度
性別差異

例:
• 實際尺寸:針車長度 0.266 min/stitch line
• 全亞洲的工廠調查,共 175個研究型 0.266 分鐘/每道車線

83 | NIKE USE ONLY. KEEP IT TIGHT.


STITCHING GUIDELINES
Stitching Guideline Creation 32 Common Components For Reference
• Identify the common stitching processes/ Stitching Types
No COMPONENT M/W M/W Type GS/PS GS/PS Type TD TD Type
components in shoe manufacturing. 1 CollarLining Top Line 30 Medium 26 Medium 19 Short
2 10 Short 9 Short 7 Short

CollarLining Side

Average an actual stitching length based on the Long Curve (40- Long Curve
(40-60 cm) Medium
60 cm)
stitching process/ component from 88 Men 3 CollarLining Top Line + Side 51 44 33

Long Curve (40- Long Curve Long Curve (40-


Models. (2662 stitching processes) 4 CollarLining Full 69 60 cm) 58
(40-60 cm)
44 60 cm)


5 Collar Ling Bottom line + Side 38 Medium 32 Medium 24 Medium
Grading percentage for the other gender. 6 Collar to Quarter 12 Short 10 Short 8 Short
Long Straight Long Straight
7 Medium
EdgeUpper 62 (40-80cm) 53 (40-80cm) 40
8 Eyestay I/O 30 Medium 25 Medium 19 Short
9 Eyestay Full 50 Long 43 Long 32 Medium
10 Foxing 30 Medium 26 Medium 19 Short
11 Gathering 21 Medium 18 Short 13 Short
12 Label 4 Short 4 Short 3 Short
13 Label Half 18 Short 15 Short 11 Short
14 LaceLoop 2 Short 1 Short 1 Short
15 Pulltab 9 Short 8 Short 6 Short
16 Swoosh Lateral 29 Medium 25 Medium 19 Short
17 Tongue to Tongue Top 14 Short 12 Short 9 Short
18 Tongue to Tongue Lining (Half) 20 Short 17 Short 13 Short
Tongue to Tongue Lining / Binding
19 (Full) 39 Medium 33 Medium 25 Medium
20 Tongue Bottom Edge 29 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short
21 Tongue To Upper 7 Short 6 Short 5 Short
22 U throat Component 17 Short 15 Short 11 Short
23 Vamp to Quarter 19 Short 16 Short 12 Short
24 Mudguard 21 Medium 18 Short 13 Short
25 Backtab 13 Short 11 Short 8 Short
26 Magwire Closed Loop 28 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short
27 Magwire Open loop 14 Short 12 Short 9 Short
28 Strobel 60 Long 51 Long 39 Medium
29 Cupsole- Full Cupsole Full
30 Cupsole- Half Cupsole Half
31 Counter 17 Short 15 Short 11 Short
32 Tip 28 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short

**Count labor processes based on actual processes,


whether manual or computer
84 | NIKE USE ONLY. KEEP IT TIGHT.

針車規範
針車規範的建立 32 常用部件的針車種類參考
• 辨識鞋型生產中,常用的針車作業及部件
• 計算 88 個男鞋型體常用的針車作業及部件(2662
No COMPONENT M/W M/W Type GS/PS GS/PS Type TD TD Type
1 CollarLining Top Line 30 Medium 26 Medium 19 Short

道針車工序) 的針車長度平均值.
2 CollarLining Side 10 Short 9 Short 7 Short

Long Curve (40- Long Curve

將其他性別的鞋型依百分比做分級
Medium
• 3 CollarLining Top Line + Side 51 60 cm) 44
(40-60 cm)
33

Long Curve (40- Long Curve Long Curve (40-


60 cm) (40-60 cm) 60 cm)
4 CollarLining Full 69 58 44
5 Collar Ling Bottom line + Side 38 Medium 32 Medium 24 Medium
6 Collar to Quarter 12 Short 10 Short 8 Short
Long Straight Long Straight
7 Medium
EdgeUpper 62 (40-80cm) 53 (40-80cm) 40
8 Eyestay I/O 30 Medium 25 Medium 19 Short
9 Eyestay Full 50 Long 43 Long 32 Medium
10 Foxing 30 Medium 26 Medium 19 Short
11 Gathering 21 Medium 18 Short 13 Short
12 Label 4 Short 4 Short 3 Short
13 Label Half 18 Short 15 Short 11 Short
14 LaceLoop 2 Short 1 Short 1 Short
15 Pulltab 9 Short 8 Short 6 Short
16 Swoosh Lateral 29 Medium 25 Medium 19 Short
17 Tongue to Tongue Top 14 Short 12 Short 9 Short
18 Tongue to Tongue Lining (Half) 20 Short 17 Short 13 Short
Tongue to Tongue Lining / Binding
19 (Full) 39 Medium 33 Medium 25 Medium
20 Tongue Bottom Edge 29 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short
21 Tongue To Upper 7 Short 6 Short 5 Short
22 U throat Component 17 Short 15 Short 11 Short
23 Vamp to Quarter 19 Short 16 Short 12 Short
24 Mudguard 21 Medium 18 Short 13 Short
25 Backtab 13 Short 11 Short 8 Short
26 Magwire Closed Loop 28 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short
27 Magwire Open loop 14 Short 12 Short 9 Short
28 Strobel 60 Long 51 Long 39 Medium
29 Cupsole- Full Cupsole Full
30 Cupsole- Half Cupsole Half
31 Counter 17 Short 15 Short 11 Short
32 Tip 28 Medium 24 Medium 18 Short

**無論是手工車縫或電腦針車都列入作業秒值的計算

85 | NIKE USE ONLY. KEEP IT TIGHT.


UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: CLOSED SEAM
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Closed Seam Two components are stitched together with length 0.378 Count per STITCH
<=20cm (face-to-face) then folded over and flattened by Average For Length >20cm you can use a Placeholder.
hammering or pressing. Hot melt is included, since it’s
part of the hammering machine.
Considerations:
• The Minutes are total minutes for Stitching & Auto
Folding.
• Do not count cementing, folding, and hammering step.

** IE PMTS BP
• SW-01 Manual Stitching
• SW-03A Folding (Machine)

8866

鞋面製程- 針車:接合(closed seam)
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
接合 將二個部件車縫在一起,且其長度 < = 20cm (表面對表 平均 以針車長度計算
面),然後將車縫處反摺,再捶平或壓平。 0.378 當針車長度超過 20cm 的範圍時,可放入 Place Holder
*補充:接合捶平 由於熱熔膠的使用屬捶平機的一部份,因此已納入計算 頁面中,另行討論。
*補充:上述 條件說明:
秒值為 < 20cm • 秒值是針車與自動摺邊的總秒值
長度> 20cm 由 • 上膠、摺邊、捶平等步驟不可納入計算
IE 計算
*補充:上膠、摺邊、捶平已可納入計算,但須等更新
版公布,有明確文字記錄才可。

** IE PMTS BP
• SW-01 Manual Stitching
• SW-03A Folding (Machine)

8877
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: CLOSED SEAM
PFC INFORMATION

Stitching closed seam with Computer Stitching


Counts as 2 Closed-Seam Processes
Counts as 1 Closed-Seam Process
8888

鞋面製程- 針車:接合(closed seam)
PFC 範例

視為 2個接合作業
使用電腦針車做接合,視為 1 個接合作業

8899
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: COMPUTER
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Computer w/ Fixed Jig Stitching 1 or 2 layers of material using jigs 0.188 Increments per # STITCHING LINE
that stay in the computer stitching machine. Average Include folding and realignment when
applicable.

Stacking with pins can use Upper Stacking


to count.

** IE PMTS SW-02 Stitching - Fix Pallet Stitching


Computer w/ Pallet Stitching decorative & functional material 0.086 Increments per pin needed to attach in
using a pallet. Average pallet:
1. DO NOT count open and close the pallet.
2. Component attached w/o pin/heat gun
count as 1 pin, full Vamp attached w/o pins
count as 8 pins.

** IE PMTS SW-03 Stitching- 2 Pallet Stitching

Computer Stitching - Closed seam counts as a Closed Seam labor process.

90

鞋面製程- 針車:電腦針車
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
固定式模板的電腦針車 利用固定在電腦針車機台上的模板進行部件的 平 均 0.188 以 ”車縫線的數量” 計算
(模板固定在機台上) 車縫 包含 摺邊與對齊 作業

當堆疊有使用到掛釘時,可用 鞋面堆疊 (Upper


Stacking) 規則計算

** IE PMTS SW-02 Stitching - Fix Pallet


Stitching
交換式夾板的電腦針車 利用交換式夾板進行裝飾類或功能性部件的車 平 均 0.086 以夾板需要使用到的掛釘數量做計算
(交換式夾板,多層次堆疊) 縫
1. 夾板的 “開、闔” 不納入計算
2. 放置於夾板的部件若沒有使用掛釘或熱熔
膠槍,則視為 1 個掛釘作業;整片式鞋頭
(VAMP) 若沒有使用掛釘時,則視為 8個掛
釘作業

*補充:夾板有磁鐵吸附時,就列出磁鐵數量

** IE PMTS SW-03 Stitching- 2 Pallet Stitching

若使用電腦針車做 “接合” 時,則視為 “接合” 作業,並計算在接合規範內

91
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: COMPUTER EXAMPLE

Fixed Jig Stitching Computer with Pallet

92

鞋面製程- 針車:電腦針車範例

固定式模板 交換式夾板

93
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: COMPUTER
PFC INFORMATION

Labor Process Count step

1. Identified a Labor process

2. Labor Process Count


• Fixed Jig per Stitching Line
• Add upper stacking if
need a pins
• Pallet per Jig Fixed Jig x2 Computer w/Pallet x4

No Pin for
Fixed Jig

94

鞋面製程- 針車:電腦針車
PFC 範例

計算製造流程的步驟

1. 辨識製造流程
2. 計算製造流程:
• 固定式模板(依據針車線設定)
• 若需要使用到掛釘,
則增加鞋面堆疊
• 交換式模板
固定式模板 x2 交換式模板 x4

固定式模板
無需增加掛釘

95
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—STITCHING: COMPUTER
PFC INFORMATION

Component attached w/o pin or


heat gun count as 1 pin x12 Computer w/Pallet

96

鞋面製程- 針車:電腦針車

PFC 範例

部件貼合無使用掛釘或熱熔膠槍
預黏,則視為 1 個掛釘 x12 交換式模板

97
UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1 3
1
Attaching Shaping 1 6
4 Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt Hammering
Auto Folding Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker Fold/Turn
Manual Folding Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 Apparatus (DWRS)
2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 3
2 HF Welding
Stitching 5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Foamposite
Counter Shaping HF Welding
Short (<20cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping Medium (20-40cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
2 Long Straight (>40 cm)
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Long Curve (40-60 cm)
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Molding
6
Closed Seam Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing
Computer w/ Pallet Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes

Computer w/ Fixed Jig 5


Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
98 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1 3
毛邊處理
1 4 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶
No Sew 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備
熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
99
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: HAMMERING
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Hammering The use of a machine to flatten the .189 Increments per COMPONENT
surface of material. Average
Considerations:
DO NOT count as part of Fold/Turn or Closed
Seam Stitching.

** IE PMTS AS-96 Hammering

Fold/Turn The process of turning components .403 Increments per COMPONENT


that have been stitched together Average
inside out. Also known as Considerations:
TURNOVER. • Includes folding, turning, shaping, and
hammering.
• Applies to ONLY the turnover of TONGUE and
COLLAR LINING.
** IE PMTS BP SW-08 Turn Over Lining

110000

鞋面製程- 定型:捶平
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
捶平 用機器將鞋面表面敲槌至平整 平 均 .189 以部件數量計算

條件說明:
不可將此動作視為車翻或接合針車的一部分

** IE PMTS AS-96 Hammering

折/翻 (Fold / Turn) 將兩個部件由背面先針車接合後再翻 平 均 .403 以部件數量計算


回正面
條件說明:
• 包含折、翻、定型、捶平
• 只適用於翻鞋舌或翻內裡

** IE PMTS BP SW-08 Turn Over Lining

110
011
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: FOLD / TURN
PFC INFORMATION

Fold/Turn x1
Hammering x1

110
021

鞋面製程- 定型:折/翻
PFC 範例

折/翻 x1
捶平 x1

110
031
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: PUNCHING
Labor Description Standard Minutes Assumptions
Process

Punching The use of a punch or cutting bar (single or gang) to 0.07 + (0.04 * Increments per PUNCH
hammer holes, or slits into an upper. #Punches)
Calculation The formula is for 1 component, if
The number of holes is different based on shoe design. have >1 component duplicate the
labor process with #components,
and require the part name in the
BOL.

** IE PMTS BP SW-06

110
041

鞋面製程- 定型:沖孔
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
沖孔 使用單一沖仔或者是排沖在鞋面上做沖孔 0.07 + (0.04 * 沖孔 以沖孔數量計算
數量)
鞋面設計有不同種類/數量之沖孔
*補充:包含轉印紙沖孔 公式是根據一個分片計算;若為
一個分片以上,則需根據分片數
量,重複該項作業,並在人工金
額 (BOL) 上登錄部件名稱

** IE PMTS BP SW-06

110
051
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: PUNCHING
PFC INFORMATION

Punches x2

Punches x6

110
061

鞋面製程- 定型:沖孔
PFC 範例

沖孔 x2

沖孔 x6

排沖

110
071
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: PUNCHING
PFC INFORMATION

2
2
2

Punches x6

110
081

鞋面製程- 定型:沖孔
PFC 範例

2
2
2

沖孔 x6

110
091
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SHAPING: PUNCHING
Labor Process Description Standard Minutes Assumptions

Punching, continued The use of a punch or cutting bar (single or gang) to 0.07 + (0.04 * Increments per PUNCH
hammer holes, or slits into an upper. #Punches)
Calculation
# of holes is different based on shoe’s design ** IE PMTS BP SW-06

Machine punching still counts per PUNCH The key is to remember to count
the punches per SHOE
1 PUNCH

Individual holes are punched along


the sheet edge prior to feeding into
a press machine for Thompson
Cutting.

C o n ve rt t o punches p e r
s hoe
4 PUNCHES

The Thompson
Die has 9 pins, but
count only 4: 4
pins for 1 label.

110

鞋面製程- 定型:沖孔
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
沖孔 (續上頁) 使用單一沖仔或者是排沖在鞋面上做沖孔 0.07 + (0.04 * 沖孔數 以沖孔數量計算
量)
鞋面設計有不同種類之沖孔
** IE PMTS BP SW-06

機器輔助沖孔仍適用於本規則 關鍵在於要記住 一只鞋有多少沖孔

1 沖孔

(轉印紙)
在轉印加工前的湯姆遜刀裁斷,將
轉印紙邊緣有打上個別沖孔

以此頁沖孔規則作業

4 沖孔

(轉印紙)
雖然湯姆遜刀上有
9 個沖孔釘,但仍
計算為 4 個,因為,
一個 LOGO 商標
上僅有 4 個沖孔釘

111
練習
範例 EXERCISE : STITCHING, ATTACHING,
SHAPING
Zoom Fly
Don’t count the box 11

112
練習
範例

113
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (1) Page: 15-1
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Surge stitch magwire reinf Cutting magwire reinf with Scissor
1 2

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
P120D/2PLY(1~5)
SURGE SM X 1014B #18 RG 6 10~12
& P200D/1PLY(6)
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
OUT - NGOÀI IN - TRONG
M - Medium

1. Turn over magwire thread


2. Stitch

計算在Dynamic Flywire 的切口數量


ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

1 x 針車-長度(中) STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE


SG-001
*Cutting to nick from nick
Roller hotmelt Stitch magwire bottom area Take out magwire and insert eva foam
3 4

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 2 11~12
FLAT
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short

2 x 針車-長度(短)
2 x 熱熔膠
ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD
HTM
1. Hot melt ( ROLLER TYPE)
STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE
計算在Dynamic Flywire 的髮夾與穿繩孔數量
2. Attach
3. Stitch
F1-001

Stitching Instruction
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (2) Page: 15-2
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Apply hot-melt on upper backside Stitch upper bottom
3 4

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 2 6~8
FLAT
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
LS - Long Straight (>40cm)

BACKSIDE

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD


HTM
(ROLLER TYPER)
1 x 貼合-熱熔膠槍預黏 STITCHING GUIDE 1 x 針車-長直線> 40cm STITCHING GUIDE
F1-001

Closed seam Vamp heel top area Hammering M/C to Closed seam area
5 6

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 5 11~12
POST
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short

Closed seam **Hammering M/C


(bakcside view)
closed seam area
5mm

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

x 接合
1STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE
**2~3 Return stitching at start & end point . P1-001

Stitching Instruction (2)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (4) Page: 15-4
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
HF Welding of collar lining bottom area Stitch Collar Lining
11 12

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 2 6~8
FLAT
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

Counted on HF Welding pages STITCHING GUIDE 2 x 針車-長度(短) STITCHING GUIDE


F1-001

Stitch Collar Lining to Upper Attach counter to counter reinf


13 14

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 SAN10#12 R N210D/3PLY 3 11~12
POST
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
*3~4times stitch *3~4times stitch M - Medium

-Stitching start and end area


2 x 貼黏貼紙

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

1 x針車-長度(中) *Match the notch & Holes


ONE FACE STK
STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE
Collar lining backside - Mặt sau lót cổ

Stitching Instruction (4)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (5) Page: 15-5
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Stitch counter reinf to counter Zigzag stitch counter reinf to counter
15 16

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 1.5 11~12 ZIGZAG DPX5 #19 R SPUN 30S/3PLY 2/2 7~9
FLAT
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short S - Short

3mm

3mm

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD


2 x 針車-長度(短)
STITCHING GUIDE
1 x 針車-長度(短) STITCHING GUIDE
**2~3 Return stitching at start & end point . F1-001 **2~3 Return stitching at start & end point . Z1-001

Stitch counter reinf to upper backside Apply Hot-melt to collar foam


17 18

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 3 11~12
POST
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short

1 x 針車-長度(短)
ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD
HTM
1 x 貼合-熱熔膠槍預黏 (ROLLER TYPE)
STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE
P1-001

Stitching Instruction (5)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (6) Page: 15-6
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Apply hot-melt on the backside of upper Attach collar foam to upper backside
19 20

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE


Backside Backside

* No hot-melt spray to lacing holes area.


Margin : 3mm

ATTACHING METHOD ** Follow the ATTACHING METH OD


gauge line

1 x 貼合-熱熔膠槍預黏
STITCHING GUIDE STITCHIN G GUIDE

Hot-melt on the backside of upper Hot-melt on the backside of collar lining


21 22

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE


Backside

* No hot-melt spray to lacing holes area.

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD


HTM HTM
(SPRAY TYPE) (SPRAY TYPE)
1 x 貼合-熱熔膠槍預黏 STITCHING GUIDE 1 x 貼合-熱熔膠槍預黏
Collar lining backside
STITCHING GUIDE

Stitching Instruction (6)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (7) Page: 15-7
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Turn over collar lining Hammering to collar lining top line
23 24

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE

Hammering M/C

Match the notch


(Collar lining) ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE

1 x 定型-摺/翻Shaping- Fold/Turn
Stitch upper bottom Stitch eyestay area
25 26

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE
1NEEDLE 1NEEDLE
DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 2 6~8 DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 11~12
POST POST
STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
S - Short S - Short

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHI NG METHOD

STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE


1 x 針車-長度(短) P1-001 2 x 針車-長度(短)
**2~3 Return stitching at start & end point . P1-001
.

Stitching Instruction (7)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (8) Page: 15-8
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Punching hole Punching by CNC cutting of tongue top o'lay (1 time cutting)
27 28

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

* Puching holes : 2.5mm (14EA)


STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE
*CNC cutting

右 左

ATTACHING METHOD *12mm ATTACHING METHOD

STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE


14 x 沖孔**沖孔刀不明確,假設為單支刀 1 x Punching **1 Unclear x 沖孔 punching dies
Heat seal C/O Label on tongue lining
30
Computer information
stitch tongue to upper , assumed is a gang dies
**沖孔刀不明確,假設為連刀
29

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

COMPUTER DPX5 #16 R N210D/3PLY 11~12

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE


HEAT SEAL C/O LABEL EDGE ONLY Stitching path

右 左
Start & End point

Heat Seal Process 1 x 貼合-熱壓 ATTACHING METHOD


1 x 電腦針車-固定式模板 *overlap 4 stitchs
ATTACHING METHOD

1.Set condition of heat seal M/C


2. Put C/O label on material STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE
3.Put C/O label with material to heat seal M/C matching laser point
4. Heat seal (Temp.:210~215 / Time:2~3")

Stitching Instruction (8)


練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Stitching Instructions (9) Page: 15-9
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Zigzag stitch Upper "V" cut area Remove the EVA FOAM & CLIP
31 32

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

ZIGZAG DPX5 #19 R SPUN 30S/3PLY 2/2 7~9

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE


S - Short

2mm

2mm

ATTACHING METH OD ATTACHING METHOD

1 x 針車-長度(短) STITCHING GUID E


髮夾數量的計算屬於Dynamic Flywire
STITCHING GUIDE
Z1-001

Shoe lacing
33

NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE STITCHING SPI STICH PER
M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE M/C TYPE THREAD TYPE
SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE SYSTEM SIZE POINT MARGIN INCHE

STITCHING GUIDELINE STITCHING GUIDELINE

ATTACHING METHOD ATTACHING METHOD

14 x 穿鞋帶 STITCHING GUIDE STITCHING GUIDE

Stitching Instruction (9)


UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1
1
Attaching 3 1 6
4 Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt
Auto Folding Hammering Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker
Fold/Turn Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Folding Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 3
2 HF Welding
Stitching 5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Foamposite
Counter Shaping HF Welding
Short (<20cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping Medium (20-40cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
2 Long Straight (>40 cm)
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Long Curve (40-60 cm)
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Molding
6
Closed Seam Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing
Computer w/ Pallet Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes

Computer w/ Fixed Jig 5


Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
122 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1 3
毛邊處理
1 4 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
No Sew
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備 熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
123
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—NO SEW: STACKING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
No Sew - The process of stacking multiple 0.061 Increments per PIN
Stacking components to be pressed together Average Inputs:
later. - Count # of pins of EACH component for a ½ pair, or 1
shoe. If 2 components stacking 1 time then be cut into
The total number of pinholes in EACH each, consider #pins on each component.
layer of a component need to be tallied. - Count Each heat gun tack as 1 pin.
- Count Each jig placement as 1 pin.
- Count Each jig removal as 1 pin.
- Count as 1 pin for attaching component w/o heat
gun/pin
Assumptions:
The minute includes:
- Open release paper and material separation
-Loading/Placing and Stacking component onto pallet DO
NOT COUNT: Insert insulating paper and silicon pad. It
belongs to no sew pressing.

** IE PMTS NS-01 Stacking

124

鞋面製程-No-Sew:堆疊
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
No-Sew:堆疊 將數個部件堆疊之後再一起做熱壓 平 均 0.061 以掛釘數量計算
Inputs:
部件的每一層的掛釘都要列入計算 - 計算每 1 個部件的掛釘數量,以單只鞋做計算基礎。
若有 2 個部件做 1 次性堆疊,然後再裁斷成兩個部
件,則計算每 1 個部件的掛釘數量
- 每 1 顆點熱熔膠槍的預黏膠視為 1 個掛釘
- 每 1 次放置製具視為 1 個掛釘
- 每 1 次移除製具視為 1 個掛釘
- 貼合作業若部件沒有掛釘孔、沒有熱熔膠槍預黏時,
視為 1 個掛釘

計算方式:
秒值包含以下項目:
- 撕掉貼在部件上的離型紙
- 將部件放置並堆疊在模板上之後再對齊掛釘孔

以下不列入計算:
使用絕緣紙與矽膠墊,這兩個屬於No-sew 熱壓製程

** IE PMTS NS-01 Stacking

125
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—NO SEW: STACKING
PFC INFORMATION

Put Jig Count as 1


Pin, no matter how
many pins should
be.

Remove Jig Count


as 1 Pin.
Total Number 50 Pins
Pin & Heat Gun 6 Heat Gun 56 x No Sew Stacking
112266

鞋面製程-No-Sew:堆疊
PFC 範例

放製具視為 1 個掛釘,
無論製具上有多少掛釘

移除製具視為1個掛釘

掛釘+熱熔膠槍預 50 掛釘
黏總數 6 熱熔膠槍預黏 56 x No-sew堆疊
112277
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—NO SEW: PRESS
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Press (Component) No sew components go through heating and cooling 0.16 Increments per Press/Component
press operations to activate then set hot melt in Average
order to fuse materials in upper component
packages. Component that can load into the Considerations:
machine is > 2 Shoes per Press. • Count preheat, heat, and cold
Press (Full Vamp) No sew components go through heating and cooling 0.35 press Separately.
press operations to activate then set hot melt in order Average • Material moves both IN and OUT
to fuse materials in upper component packages. • Includes placing the silicon cover
Component that can load into the machine is 1-2 and insulating paper.
Shoes per Press.
** if the 4 Full vamp can be press together count ** IE PMTS NS-02 Pressing
as Component.

Component Full Vamp/ Upper

128

鞋面製程-No-Sew:熱壓
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
熱壓 (部件) 透過熱壓與冷壓處理方式將鞋面堆疊的材料背面的熱 平 均 0.16 以部位數/熱壓次數計算
熔膠活化並熔融在一起。 Increments per Press/Component
每 1 次的熱壓,機台可放置多於 2 只腳的部件數量

條件說明:
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭/ 透過熱壓與冷壓處理方式將鞋面堆疊的材料背面的熱熔 平 均 0.35 • 預壓、熱壓、冷壓 分開計算
全鞋面) 膠活化並熔融在一起。 • 材料 ―放入‖、―移出‖的動作
每 1 次的熱壓,機台可放置 1 ~ 2 只腳的部件數量 • 包含放置矽膠墊與絕緣紙

** 若 4 個全鞋面可一次性熱壓,則視為 ―部件‖,以部 ** IE PMTS NS-02 Pressing


件規則計算

部件 一片式鞋頭/全鞋面

129
鞋面製程-No-Sew:熱壓
PFC INFORMATION

PRESS (FULL VAMP) x2

130

鞋面製程-No-Sew:熱壓
PFC 範例

熱壓 (一片式鞋頭) x2

131
UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1
1
Attaching 3 1 6
4 Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt
Auto Folding Hammering Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker
Fold/Turn Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Folding Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 3
2 5 HF Welding
Stitching Dynamic Flywire 9
Pair Matching Foamposite
6 HF Welding
Counter Shaping Short (<20cm) Dynamic Flywire -
Manual Winding Foamposite
Counter Shaping Medium (20-40cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
2 Long Straight (>40 cm) Machine Winding
Skiving Upper Compression
4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Long Curve (40-60 cm)
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Molding
6
Closed Seam Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing
Computer w/ Pallet Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes

Computer w/ Fixed Jig 5


Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
132 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1 3
毛邊處理
1 4 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
No Sew
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備 熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
133
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: WINDING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Dynamic Flywire – Creation of dynamic flywire components Input:
Machine Winding (typically quarter panels, or one piece # Pins, # Slits, # Clips, # Trim, # Shoe (per Pallet).
uppers) using an embroidery machine Include:
process. Stacking, Load & Unload to embroidery machine,
Insert Clips and EVA, Trimming, Attaching to Shoes
Flywire can either be enclosed or and Slits.
exposed.

Dynamic Flywire – Creation of dynamic flywire components Formula Input: Loop


Manual Winding (typically quarter panels or one piece on System # Pins, # Slits, # Clips, # Trim, # Cable , # Shoe (per
uppers) using a manual process. Pallet).

Attaching webbing and heel pull tab on Include:


the stitching line, count only for the slits. Stacking, Load & Unload, Manual Winding, Insert
Clips and EVA, Trimming, Attaching to Shoes and
Slits.

** IE PMTS BP FW-01 & 03

113344

鞋面製程-DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: 繞線
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
Dynamic Flywire – 使用電繡機台輔助製作Dynamic Flywire 活 Input:
機器輔助繞線 動繩 (常用於腰身或一片式鞋面) 可列入計算:掛釘數量、穿繩孔數量、髮夾數量、修
剪次數及一個製具板可以放幾只鞋面
Flywire 可以是隱藏或有外露 包含:
堆疊、製具板放入及移出電繡機台、髮夾與EVA、修
剪、貼在鞋面上與穿出繩孔

Dynamic Flywire – 以手工方式纏繞 Dynamic Flywire 活動繩 Input:


手工繞線 (常用於腰身或一片式鞋面) 系統公式 可列入計算:掛釘數量、穿繩孔數量、髮夾數量、修
剪次數、繩圈數量及一個製具板可以放幾只鞋面
在針車產線上,貼織帶與後吊帶的作業,
僅以穿繩孔 (slit) 規則計算 包含:
堆疊、製具板放入及取出、手工繞線、髮夾與EVA、
修剪、貼在鞋面上與穿出繩孔

** IE PMTS BP FW-01 & 03

113355
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—DYNAMIC FLYWIRE WINDING
PFC INFORMATION

1. How to Count PINS: Count the pins (for one shoe) that are used to secure the material (reinforcement 3. # of Shoes: How many shoe(s) cover in Jig.
or upper) for the Dynamic Flywire process only (i.e. don’t count No Sew pin holes if not used for Dynamic
Flywire). Impacted to the Loading &
Unloading Pallet

1 shoe/ pallet
2 PINS
28 PINS

2. How to Count Cable / Shoes: Count the number of the loop during the manual winding process
Loop

Loop
4 Cable
Cover minutes for manual winding.

136

鞋面製程-DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: 繞線
PFC 範例

1.如何計算掛釘數量:計算僅在DYNAMIC FLYWIRE製程中,一只鞋上可固定部件的掛釘數 3. 鞋面數量:製具板可製作多少只鞋面


量。
*若只No-sew製程中使用的掛釘且沒有用在Dynamic Flywire製程的話,不可列入計算 與放置與移除製具板有關

1 只鞋/ 製具板
2 掛釘
28 掛釘

2. 如何計算鞋面上的繩圈:計算手工繞線時產生的繩圈數量

4 繩圈
已包含手工繞線所需的秒值

137
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—DYNAMIC FLYWIRE WINDING
PFC INFORMATION
4. How to count CUTS Cover minutes for cut the
Count the number of cuts per component. reinforcement / cable
Do not count the cuts that happen in stitching.

5. How to count CLIPS Cover minutes for attach


Count the number clips required to hold the clips into the cable.
wire.

3 CUTS
8 CLIPS

Cover Minutes to attach Wire


into the upper on the stitching
line.

138

鞋面製程-DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: 繞線
PFC 範例
4. 如何計算切口 (CUTS)
計算每個部件的切口 (cut); 包含裁剪補強/拉繩的作業秒值
發生在針車線上才製作的切口不列入計算

包含安裝髮夾到拉繩上的作業秒值
5. 如何計算髮夾數量 (CLIPS)
計算固定拉繩的髮夾數量

3 切口 (CUTS)
8髮夾(CLIPS)

包含針車線上將拉繩安裝到鞋面上的作業秒值

139
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—DYNAMIC FLYWIRE WINDING
PFC INFORMATION

6. How to count SLITS


Count the number of slits, or holes the brio cables are inserted through (on one shoe)
including around or near the eyelets. Distance between the holes slit < 2 cm counts
as a 1 slit.

ONLY count the eyelets as a slit when the brio cables are inserted through the eyelet.

1 9
7 18
3 5
15 17
11 13

10 2 12 4 14 6 16 8

140

鞋面製程-DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: 繞線
PFC 範例

6. 如何計算穿繩孔 (SLIT) 數量
以 1 只鞋面上穿繩孔有拉繩穿過且靠近鞋眼孔做計算。二個穿繩孔之間的距離< 2 cm
視為 1 個穿繩孔。

當活動繩有確實穿過鞋眼孔 (EYELET) 時儘可以將該眼孔視為穿繩孔 (SLIT)。

1 9
7 18
3 5
15 17
11 13

10 2 12 4 14 6 16 8

141
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—DYNAMIC FLYWIRE
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Don’t count the computer
stitching/ manual
stitching to stitch the
wire to the backing or
upper if the stacking
process is done under
the Dynamic Flywire
Labor Process.

142

鞋面製程-DYNAMIC FLYWIRE: 車縫補強帶

若”堆疊”是計算在
Dynamic Flywire 的人工
動作規則下,那麼以電腦
針車將活動繩車縫在補強
帶上的作業不列入計算。

143
練習
範例 NO SEW & DYNAMIC FLYWIRE
EXERCISE

Zoom Fly

144
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY
Upper Component Stacking Process (1) Page: 8-1
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
PROCESS METHOD NOSEW

OPERATOR COMPONENT:PIN-PLATE COMPONENT:EYESTAY COMPONENT:MAGWIRE SLIT FILM TOP IN/OUT


GROUP SIZE FOR PALLET:
M's 3T W's 5 M's 4-
4T W's 5T-6 M's 5-
5T W's 6T-7
M's 6-6T W's 7T-8
M's 7-7T W's 8T-9
M's 8-8T W's 9T-10
1 M's 9-9T W's 10T-11
M's 10-10T W's 11T-12
M's 11-11T
M's 12-12T
M's 13
M's 14
M's 15

TOTAL CYCLE CYCLE TIME (sec) 3 # OF PINS HALF PR. 37 CYCLE TIME (sec) 6.6 # OF PINS HALF PR. 18 CYCLE TIME (sec) 14.4 # OF PINS HALF PR. 6
TIME (sec) # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR.
PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL

24 Prepare pallet
Cover insulating paper
0 **Keep paper
Film side up 18 **Keep paper
Film side up 6
OPERATOR COMPONENT:SWOOSH IN/OUT COMPONENT:QTR BOTTOM REINF IN COMPONENT:QTR BOTTOM REINF OUT

TOTAL CYCLE CYCLE TIME (sec) 9 # OF PINS HALF PR. 0 CYCLE TIME (sec) 8.6 # OF PINS HALF PR. 3 CYCLE TIME (sec) 8.6 # OF PINS HALF PR. 4
TIME (sec) # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR.
PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL

26.2 Remove film **Keep paper **Keep paper


Film side up 2 Film side up 3 Film side up 4

60 鞋面製程
Upper Component Stacking Proces
No Sew 堆疊: 18+6+2+3+4= 33
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Upper Component Stacking Process (2) Page: 8-2
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
PROCESS METHOD NOSEW

OPERATOR COMPONENT:UPPER COMPONENT:MAGWIRE SLIT FILM BOTTOM IN/OUT COMPONENT:TIP REINF

TOTAL CYCLE CYCLE TIME (sec) 11.6 # OF PINS HALF PR. 37 CYCLE TIME (sec) 14.4 # OF PINS HALF PR. 6 CYCLE TIME (sec) 7.2 # OF PINS HALF PR. 2
TIME (sec) # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR.
PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL

33.2
Surface down 37 **Keep paper
Film side down 6
Remove paper
Film side down
2

OPERATOR COMPONENT:COLLAR REINF 1 IN/OUT COMPONENT:COLLAR REINF 2 IN/OUT

TOTAL CYCLE CYCLE TIME (sec) 12.4 # OF PINS HALF PR. 8 CYCLE TIME (sec) 13.6 # OF PINS HALF PR. 10
TIME (sec) # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR.
PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL

Remove paper Remove paper


26
Film side down 8 Glue side down 10

鞋面製程
No Sew堆疊: 37+6+2+8+10 = 63 Upper Component Stacking Pr (2
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Page: 8-3
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Upper Component Stacking Process (3)
PROCESS METHOD NOSEW

OPERATOR COMPONENT:Pre-Heat press COMPONENT: COMPONENT: Heat press


5

TOTAL CYCLE CYCLE TIME (sec) 35 # OF PINS HALF PR. CYCLE TIME (sec) 7.8 # OF PINS HALF PR. CYCLE TIME (sec) 44 # OF PINS HALF PR.
TIME (sec) # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR. # OF HEATING GUN OPERATION HALF PR.
86.8 PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL PROCESS DETAIL
Pre-Heat press Remove paper Upper- Surface
down Top: Silicon
0.3MM Bottom:
insulating paper

12 沖孔

熱壓屬於熱壓規則,本頁做為每一次熱壓片數的參考
12 x 沖孔
湯姆遜斬刀已計算在裁斷頁的規則
Upper Component Stacking Pr (3
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Page: 8-4
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001
Upper Component Stacking Process (4)
PROCESS METHOD NOSEW

* Process for 2nd Thomson Cutting:

* PUNCHING HOLE * 2nd THOMSON CUTTING * INSERT UPPER-AFTER 2.5D


PRESSING
DIE TO THOMSON
CUTTING DIE

* AFTER FINISHED 2nd * THOMSON CUTTING * PUT UPPER+THOMSON


CUTTING DIE
THOMSON CUTTING TO CUTTING M/C

熱壓屬於熱壓規則,本頁做為每一次熱壓片數的參考
8 x沖孔
湯姆遜斬刀已計算在裁斷頁的規則
Upper Component Stacking Pr (4
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Page: 9-1
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001 Upper Heat/Cold Press Specification (1)
COMPONENT NAME UPPER VENDOR IN-HOUSE PROCESS
CONDITION NOSEW

PRESS TYPE PAD SPECIFICATION TEMP SPECIFICATION PRESSURE SPECIFICATION (kg/cm2) / 6KG AIR
M/C or ACTUAL TEMP. TIME
1. PRE- TOP THICKNESS 12-13MM M/C SET TEMP. 200 25-30'' SIZE M/C SETTING LOAD CELL
HEAT PLAT
HARDNESS 27-33A ALL 100KG 5100
PRESS E

COLOR WHITE ACTUAL TEMP. 125-130 USING VJ5TON

CHANGI 6000
NG
FREQUEN
CY
BOTTOM THICKNESS N/A M/C SET TEMP. 120 THERMOCOUPLE
PLATE PROBE
HARDNESS N/A LOCATION

COLOR N/A ACTUAL TEMP. 115-120

CHANGI N/A
NG
FREQUEN
CY

PRESS TYPE PAD SPECIFICATION TEMP SPECIFICATION PRESSURE SPECIFICATION (kg/cm2) / 6KG AIR
M/C or ACTUAL TEMP. TIME
2. TOP THICKNESS 5MM M/C SET TEMP. 145 30'' SIZE M/C SETTING LOAD CELL
HEA PLAT
T E HARDNESS 50-60A ALL 70KG 4600
PRE
COLOR WHITE ACTUAL TEMP. 125-130 USING KD10TON
SS

CHANGI 8000
NG
FREQUEN
CY
BOTTOM THICKNESS 5MM M/C SET TEMP. 145 THERMOCOUPLE PROBE LOCATION
PLATE
HARDNESS 50-60A

2 x No Sew – 熱壓(
COLOR 一片式鞋頭)
WHITE ACTU AL TEMP. 125-130

CHANGI 8000
NG
FREQUEN
CY Upper Heat-Cold Press Spec.
練習 Nike, Inc. Ver 17.8

範例 Production Confirmation (March, 29, 2017)


MODEL NAME: ZOOMFLY Upper embroidery Stitching Process Page: 12
PRODUCTION CODE: 880848-001

COMPONENT NAME Dynamic Flywire # of STITCHES 2232/ a shoe


THREAD TYPE TOP: MAGWIRE, 1.2MM, BOTTOM: 120D/2PLY TIME (sec) N/A
NEEDLE & SIZE DB X K5Z2 & #11

1 2~4 5~6

Microsoft Excel
Worksheet
7 8

No PROCESS ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS


1 INSERT DYNAMIC FLYWIRE TO JIG
Clip
2 INSERT JIG TO HOOP
3 DYNAMIC FLYWIRE PROCESS In and Out of EVA color
4 ZIGZAG EMBROIDERY FOR DYNAMIC FLYWIRE REINF should be different
5 TAKE OUT JIG AND CUT THREAD
6 CUT EMBROIDERY THREAD > EVA trong, ngoài khác màu
7 INSERT CLIP TO DYNAMIC FLYWIRE
8 INSERT EVA (In/Out EVA Different color)
9 COMPLETE
PHOTO OF JIG/HOOP JIG/HOOP SCHEDULE

COMPONENT SIZE JIG SIZE


EACH SIZE M's W's
3T 5
4~4T 5T~6
5~5T 6T~7
6~6T 7T~8
7~7T 8T~9
8~8T 9T~10
9~9T 10T~11

#Pins #slits #clips #cuts #shoe/jig Cablepershoe 10~10T


11~11T
12~12T
11T~12

13

Machine 36 10 10 15 1 12 14
15

Upper Embroidery Stitch Process


UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1
1
Attaching 3 1 6
4 Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt
Auto Folding Hammering Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker
Fold/Turn Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Folding Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 3
2 HF Welding
Stitching 5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Foamposite
Counter Shaping HF Welding
Short (<20cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping Medium (20-40cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
2 Long Straight (>40 cm)
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Long Curve (40-60 cm)
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking 6 Molding
Sockliner Making
Closed Seam
Pre-Buffing Molded Sockliner
Computer w/ Pallet Factory Observed Minutes

Computer w/ Fixed Jig Die Cut Sockliner 5


Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
151 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1 3
毛邊處理
1 4 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
No Sew
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備 熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
編織
152
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SOCKLINER
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Molded Sockliner The making of a molded sockliner from start .880 Increments per SOCKLINER
to finish. Does not include screen printing. Fixed Some models, 1 shoe requires 2
sockliners, count the sockliner making 2 x
and additional Insert under Assembly.

Includes:
• EVA prep/making
• Preform cutting
• EVA press/split/cut
• Lamination of top cloth
• Heating/molding
• Die-cutting sockliner
• Trimming

**IE PMTS BP SL-01 Molded Sockliner

153

鞋面製程-鞋墊
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
模壓鞋墊 模壓鞋墊的製作是由開始-結束為一個作業時 固定值 .880 以鞋墊數量計算
間。不包含網版印刷 部分鞋型有 1 只鞋需求 2 個鞋墊,其計算
方式為:2 個鞋墊製作,並在成型作業中
增加附鞋墊的流程
包含:
• EVA 準備與生產
• 粗胚裁斷
• EVA 壓製/切片/裁斷
• 熱壓鞋墊襯墊
• 熱處理/模壓
• 鞋墊半成品以斬刀裁斷
• 修剪
**IE PMTS BP SL-01 Molded Sockliner

154
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—SOCKLINER
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Die Cut Sockliner The making of a die-cut sock liner from start to .380 Increments per SOCKLINER
finish. Does not include screen printing. Fixed Some models, 1 shoe require 2
Sockliners, count the sockliner making
Also use for cutting Strobel with different 2 x and additional Insert under
material such as EVA. Assembly

Do not use for sockliner bought from vendor Count Skiving for multi skiving wing
and cut inhouse. Use Cutting synthetic to arch.
count. Includes:
EVA prep/making
Preform cutting
EVA press/split/cut
Die-cutting sock liner
1 x Skiving wing arch
**IE PMTS BP SL-02 Die Cut
Sockliner

155

鞋面製程-鞋墊
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
刀斬鞋墊 刀斬鞋墊的製作是由開始-結束為一個作業時 固定值 .380 以鞋墊數量計算
間。不包含網版印刷 部分鞋型有 1 只鞋需求 2 個鞋墊,其計
算方式為:2 個鞋墊製作,並在成型作
可適用於不同材質的中底布裁切,例如 EVA材 業中增加附鞋墊的流程
質中底布
將削邊 (Skiving) 視為 Multi-skiving
不適用於外購鞋墊,並於廠內裁切的狀況。 Wing Arch (磨邊)
若為外購鞋墊、廠內裁切,則以 “人造皮裁斷”
規則計算 包含:
• EVA 準備與生產
• 粗胚裁斷
• EVA 壓製/切片/裁斷 *含削邊
• (刀斬) 鞋墊裁斷
• 1X 磨邊
**IE PMTS BP SL-02 Die Cut
Sockliner

156
UPPER PROCESSES
Upper Preparation (25) Upper Construction (29) Upper Embellishment (16)
1
1
Attaching 3 1 6
4 Shaping Embroidery Upper Painting
Cutting Edge Treatment
Hot Melt
Auto Folding Hammering Embroidery - Tape Upper Spray Painting
Leather
Sticker
Fold/Turn Embroidery - Pins
Synthetic/Textile 1 Layer Manual Folding Manual Painting
Heat Press Punching
Synthetic/Textile 2 Heating
Layers Heat Gun
Painting 7 Upper Waterproofing
Synthetic/Textile 4 (DWRS)
Apparatus 2
Layers Screen Printing
Trimming Upper 4 Upper Waterproofing
Lacing No Sew
Synthetic/Textile 6 (DWRS)
Screen Print - Small
Layers
Upper Stacking No Sew - Stacking
Synthetic/Textile 8 Screen Print - Medium
5 8
Layers Flyknit Preparation Toggle Lace Press (Component) Vac Tech
Screen Print - Large
Part Aligned - Large BOA Press (Full Vamp)
Knit Ironing Vac Tech (Eco-Fill)

Part Aligned - Medium Vac Tech (Attaching)


Knit Cuff
Part Aligned - Large 3
2 HF Welding
Stitching 5 9
Pair Matching Dynamic Flywire
6 Foamposite
Counter Shaping HF Welding
Short (<20cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
Foamposite
Manual Winding
Counter Shaping Medium (20-40cm)
Dynamic Flywire -
2 Long Straight (>40 cm)
Skiving Machine Winding Upper Compression
4 10
7 Molding Sublimation
Long Curve (40-60 cm)
Manual Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking
Xtra Long Curve(>60cm) Upper Compression Sublimation
Matrix Skiving Sock-Gauge Checking Molding
6
Closed Seam Sockliner Making
Pre-Buffing
Computer w/ Pallet Molded Sockliner Factory Observed Minutes

Computer w/ Fixed Jig 5


Die Cut Sockliner Laser Etching
3 Standard Minutes
Stitch Marking
Laser Etching With Pins
Stitch Marking - Screen Upper Stamping 7
Weaving
Laser Etching Without Pins
Stitch Marking - Pen
157 Weaving
UPPER PROCESSES—OVERVIEW 中
鞋面部件準備/處理 (25) 鞋面製程 (29) 面部二次加工 (16)
1 3
毛邊處理
1 4 1
裁斷 貼合處理 定型 電繡 6
面部噴漆
皮革 自動摺邊 熱熔膠 捶平 電繡-貼紙固定
部件噴漆
人造皮/紡織品 1 層 手工摺邊 自黏 折/翻 電繡-掛釘固定
人工噴漆
烘邊 熱壓 沖孔
人造皮/紡織品 2 層
塗邊 熱熔膠槍 7
人造皮/紡織品 4 層
2 面部防水處理
修邊 金屬眼扣
4 網版印刷 (DWRS)
No Sew
人造皮/紡織品 6 層 穿鞋帶 網印面積-小 鞋面防水膜噴漆(DWRS)
No Sew – 堆疊
鞋面堆疊(二加用) 網印面積-中
人造皮/紡織品 8 層 5
Flyknit 準備 熱壓 (部件)
穿織帶 網印面積-大
對位斬-大部件 Knit 燙平處理
熱壓 (一片式鞋頭)
8 Vac Tech
鞋帶束緊器
對位斬-中部件 Knit Cuff 熱壓填補
BOA ®鞋帶系統 PU 料填補
對位斬-小部件
3
配雙 5
高週波 補強料填補
後襯定型
6
Dynamic Flywire
Laser Final Trim (LFT) 2 高週波
EXERCISE
後襯定型 針車 Dynamic Flywire
9
Foamposite
-手工繞線
車縫長度:短 (< 20cm) Foamposite
Dynamic Flywire
削皮
2
7 -機械輔助繞線
確認襪套位置 車縫長度:中 (20-40cm)
4 面部熱壓
削皮
昇華轉印
車縫長度:長-直線 (>40 cm) 10
確認襪套位置 面部熱壓
片薄 車縫長度:長-弧線 (40-60 cm)
昇華轉印
6
車縫長度:超長-弧線 (>60cm)
鞋墊製作
預磨打粗
接合 模壓鞋墊
工廠提供實際測得的時間
5
3 電腦針車 (交換式模板) 刀斬鞋墊 雷射雕花
劃針車記號線(網印/手工) 標準秒值
電腦針車 (固定式模板) 加掛釘
針車記號線-網印 鞋面-蓋日期章 7
編織 不加掛釘
MM Option

針車記號線-手工劃線
158 編織
UPPER CONSTRUCTION—WEAVING
Labor Process Description Standard Assumptions
Minutes
Weaving Manual Webbing weaving process direct on Factory Include (Observed Minutes)
the last, or used a pallet. Observed Preparation Step: Drill holes, fixing
Minutes sock and heel, hammering nail, insert
tongue, etc.

*Weaving: Center Weaving, Tip


Weaving, Pallet Weaving, etc.

**Processes included can change


based on model complexity.

115599

鞋面製程-編織
人工動作 描述 標準秒值 前提說明
編織 將織帶以手工方式直接編織在楦頭上,或用在 工廠提供實際 包含 (工廠回饋測得時間)
製具板上進行手工編織 測得的時間 準備步驟:鑽孔、固定中底與後跟、捶
皮釘子、放鞋舌, 等

*編織:中心編織 (Center Weaving),


前套編織 (Tip Weaving),
製具編織 (Pallet Weaving), 等等

**已包含製程,且可依據鞋型複雜度做
調整

116600

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