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W A T C H M A KE R S ’

A ND J E W E L E R S ’

RACTI C A L H A ND B OOK

R ELI AB LE COM P E N D I U M OF V A LU A B L E R E C E I PT S A ND

SU GGE S T I ON S , C A R E F U LL Y S E LE CT E D F R OM P R I V A T E
F ORM U LAE ,
A ND T H E B E ST AU T H ORI T I E S .

/
E D I T E D A N D COM Bl L E D B Y

H E N R Y G . A B B OT T

F if th E d i ti on , R e v
i
sed a n d E n la r g e d . 54 I llu s tr a ti on s .

‘ Q t

C H I CA GO
Gn o K H . . A ZL I T I
’ ‘
Co .
, PU B L I S H E R S.
D H: 9 7/
,

189 2 .
PRE FA CE .

HE plate s o f th e W atch m a k e rs an d Jew e lers


T
’ ’

P ractica l H an d B ook hav ing becom e so worn in


the prin ting o f form e r e d itio n s that it has beco me
n ece ssary to co n sign the m to t h e waste heap I
“ ”
,

deci d ed to i mpro v e the O pportu n ity to thoro ugh ly


rev i s e th e work . N early e very page ha s bee n
e n tirely re w ritte n an d I be l ieve that th e work as
a whol e is a great i mpro ve m e n t o ver former ed itions .

I n th e m atter of il l u stration s alon e a d eci d ed


improve m e n t w il l b e obser ved w h e n co mpared w it h
o ther ed ition s . A 11 d iagram c uts hav e been d is
car d ed an d in th eir p l ace hav e bee n s ub stitu ted
o e n gr a v
.

h t i n s made d ir ec t fro m my draw ings


p o g
v
,

wh ic h I hav e ai me d to m ake in the ir proper p ropor


tion s. I n som e in stance s the se il l u stratio n s are
som ewhat sm al ler than I s hou ld hav e l ike d them
had I the necessary space at my c o m m and .

I n prese n tin g th e fol l ow in g page s I w i sh to frank ly


state tha t I claim n o c redit fo r origin al ity ; many
original idea s w il l be fo und in the se pag e s bu t th e
,

g reate r part o f the m atter ha s bee n com piled from


the best te xt book s o f the day ,
from m agazin e arti
c le s an d fro m su gge s tion s a n d h in ts fu rn ished by
4 P R E FA C E .

friend s in the trade T h e work s o f S a u n ier Gro s s


.
,

man G l asgo w R e i d an d ot h e r s h a v e bee n draw n


, ,

upo n largely for the in formation here giv e n My .

ai m h as been to s u p p ly th e s tu d e n t w ith a n el em e n
tary work fro m w h ich h e m ay deriv e a good in sigh t
into the vario u s prin cip l e s o f per form ing vario u s
k ind s of work an d at the sam e t im e to s u pp ly th e
,

practic a l man a t th e b e n c h w i th a handy re fere nce


work .

M y ai m ha s be e n to prese n t to my re a der s th e m o st
impro ve d p roce sse s of d o ing work an d a t the sa m e,

ti me to m ake my sel f u n d erstood and th is i n for ma


,

tion ha s bee n com piled from m any an d variou s


source s . M any o f th e too l s and processe s de scribe d
h ave been c o m m on i n watch factory w ork for m any
y ear s bu t are co mpara tive l y u n known to th e a v erage
,

watch repairer at the be nch M u c h of th is in form a


.

tio n has co st th e watch facto rie s o f th e U n ite d S ta te s


tho u san d s of do l l ar s to acqu ire t h rough th e pay
,

m en t of l arge salarie s and the b uild in g o f e x p e r i


m e ntal tool s a n d mach in ery .

W ith the s e fe w rem arks the a u thor leave s thi s


l ittl e v
o lu m e to speak for itsel f a n d tru sts that e very

r ea d er m ay fi n d som eth ing o f va l u e with i n its cov e rs

to compen sate him for his tim e in perusing it a n d th e


sm al l o u tlay in its p urcha s e .
I N DE X .

PA GE . P A GE

t
A d ju s m e n t H ea e t r 72 Cl k G il t to Cl ea
oc s, n 113
A l c o ho l 50 C ppo er 25
A l i i
um n u m 29 C rvu es . 13
li 104 C tt i g S e w T h r e a ds

A n nea ng S ta fi u n cr 97
C u te t rs for S or e w H ead
B e n ch 47
S i n ks 67
B e z e l C hu c k 74
Cu tt i n g l t Sh p
T oo s, o ar en 46
B l u i n g S te e l 25
C y li d P iv t
n er o s 100
15
B r oa c h e s 56 Di l S ilv
a s, t VV h i t er . o en 95
to S ol d e r 56 t D ill o r . o 95
B roa ch i n g V e r t ca i ll y 56 t R m v o N m e o e a e

B r on z e s l . to C ean 1 16 fr om
Br z i g S t l
on n ee 25 to R emo v e S ta i ns
B k S w t
ro en cr e s, o R em o v e 97 fr o m
B hi g W h l
us n ee s 108 i lvi
D s s o n g S oft S o d e r l
t o Fi t 102 D ou z i e nne

C a n on P i i
n on , to T g h i t en 105
Dra w n g i
Ce m e n t Ch uc k s 3 6 , 75
i
D r a w n g B oa r d s Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q

Pe n s
W t
a chm a k er s

35
Dr ill d D illi
te r i n g T oo l s an r ng
Ce n 54
Cha lk to P r e p a r e 113
Dr ill R t es s

C hu c k
,

Beze l 74
Dr ill t T m p
s, o e er
,

Je w e l 66 -

S te p
a n n Q 0

83
VV h e e i 83
Ci l
rcu a r Oi l S to v e s 52 F il es

Cl ean ng i N i c k e l M v o e to C l ean

me ri ts " F ili ng B lo c k
6 I N DE X .

PA GE .
F ili ng, F l t
a N i k
c el 27
R e s t to R es o e t r Co l or oi . 27
S q u a r e H ol e s
F l u x e s for S ol d e r i n g 0“ S to n e s
C i r cu a l r
Ga u g e , D ou zi em e 88 0 11 S i n ks
S ta ff
G e r m a n S ilv e r Pa r a ll l R l
e u es 14
Gold S o l d e r s Pe a r l t Cl
s, o e an 116
S pr i n g s to Dr l il 116
G r a v e r U s e s of
,
Pi n i on s , W or n , to R em edy 105
to S h a r p e n P iv t o s, Cy li n der 100
Fr i tic on of 101
H a i r pr i
s n gs , to Pr e v ten S t a te o f 100
R ust oi t o Po li sh 99
H an d T on g s Piv t Dr ill
o s Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q Q 90
H a nds , t o Fi t P li h o s ers O O O O O O O O 79
S ol d e r s
O O O

H ar d
Poli s h i g S t l n ee O O O O O O O O O O 23
a r d S te e l to Dr ill
O O

H , W heels 107
P l an 10
Je w e l C h u c k s 66
P re p ar i n g A r t i c le s for
P in S e tte r 74
S ol d e r i n g 32
S e tt i n g s to P o li s h 1 10
Pr o p o t on a l r i Com pa ss e s 15
N ew 110
Protr a c tor 12

L a m p, A l c oh o l
S tu d e n t R e a l ti on of S p i r n g an d

L th e s
a
Ba rr e l . 93

L th e W a x
a
R e pa r i C la m p s 34

L e n g t h o f S t a ff .
R os e Cu tte r 112

L i g h t a n d P os i t i on R ou n d i n g - u
p A achm en tt t 77
i
R u b y P n s , to T g h e n i t 110
M i pri g
a ns n W i n de r 71 t
R u s , to R e m o ev 105

M bl C
ar e ase s
,
to C l e an 115 R us t i n g of S teel , 24
I N DE X . 7

P A GE .

R us ty H a irs p r i n gs , to S t a y S pr i n g , to S ol d e r .

A voi d 94 S te e l
F la t Po li s h of

S aw A r b or 79
H ar d , to Dr lil
S cr e w H ead S in k Cu tt e r s 67
Po li s h i ng

T a ls i t k oc 82
to A nn ea l
T hr e a d s , t o C u t 97
to B en d 20
S e co n d H a n d H o l d e r
- 71 to B lu e 25
S h a p e of P iv ots 100 to B r on z e 25
S h o w W i n d ow s to P re to D r a w T e m p e r f r om 21
v e n t S w e a ti n g 114 to P rot e c t A ga in st
S ilv e r D i a l s to W h i t e n
,
. 95 R ust
Ge rm a n 28 t o R e s t or e B u r n t
S ol d e r s 31 to R e m o v e R u s t
to R e m o v e I nk
fr om
S t a i n s from 114 to S ofte n
S oft S o l d er s 31 to W or k
to D i s lv
s o e 33 S te p C hu c k s

S ol der i n g Cl mp a s 34
Fl ux es 32 Ta il st koc ,
S cr e w
S ta y S pr i n g s . . 33 v T ra erse

T w ee zr e s 35 T ee th i W h ln ee s

S ol d e r s and So ld i er n g 30 Te m p r i g Dr ill
e n

Gold 31 Tin
H a rd 30 T ools , t o M k ar

S ilv e r 31 T ri a n gl e s
S oft 31 T S qu are s
S pi c k e r m a n C e m e n t C h u c k 76 T w ee zr e s, S ol der i n g
S pr i n g s Gold ,
93 Tw it
s Dr ill s

to S ofte n 93
S t aff G a u g e 84 W t
a ch C a s e s , to C l ean . . 114

L eng th of 103 Gl a s s es ,
to R e du c e

to A n n ea l 104 Di a met e r oi .
8 I N DE X .

PA GE . PA GE .

W a tc h j e w e ls , to T e s t . 109 W hee l s, to Gr i n d 109


VV a t c h m a k e r

s C e m en t 35 to Po li sh 107
W he e l C h u c k s 83 W or n Pi n i o n s , to R em ed
y 105
W h e e l s , to B u s h 108 26
W A TC H M A KE R S ’
A ND J E W E L E R S ’

PRA C T I C A L H A ND B OO K .

DRAWI NG AND DRAWI NG I NS TRUME NTS .

KN O W L E DGE
A
of
ri th m e tic geo m e try a n d
a ,

d r a wing a r e al l e sse n tial to the yo u ng m an w ho


h op e s to b e co m e pr ofic i e n t i n th e art of w a tc hm a k
in g an d i f h e i s d e fic i e n t i n k nowl edge i n the se
,

bran ch e s the soon e r he p urchase s th e n ecessary tex t


,

books an d starts to master the m the be tter S au n ier .

v ery ap tly say s th at e very w atch m a k er worthy o f


,

the n am e s ho uld be abl e to m ake an d to u n d erstan d


th e drawing o f a m ac h in e or o f any ho ro l ogical
in stru m e n t M any i n ve n tor s an d e v e n or d in ary
.
,

workm en wou l d a voi d a l ar g e am o u n t o f h an d work


, ,

o fte n u sel e s s an d occ u py in g m u ch ti m e i f i n stead


, , ,

o f at on ce pu tt i ng an idea in to practice w ith bras s an d

s te el t h ey w ere ab l e a s a prel im inary to m ak e for


, , ,

them se lv es a correc t d e sign drawn to sca l e ,


T he .

repr e se n t a tion o n paper of th e s id e v i e w of an obj ect


o r its proj ectio n o n a v er tical pl an e i s k now n as an
e le va ti on wh il e th e pro ection o n a horizo ntal
, j pl an e
IO W A T C H M A K E RS A ND J E W E L E R S
’ ’

or a v iew of the obj ect a s s ee n fro m abo ve i s k now n


a s a fla n A section i s a v iew o f a bo d y as i t wou l d
.

appear i f c u t in two and o n e portion re mo ved in order


to e xpose the in terior A
. sectio n is u s u al ly ind i
c a te d by a serie s of paral lel l in e s d raw n close to

gether an d at a n angl e of abo u t 4 5 to th e v ertical


°
,

Fig . 1

a s s how n in Fig 1 D rawings are som etim e s m ad e


. .

how e ver in w hat is k nown a s d iagra m s ty le i n w h ic h


, ,

n o paral l e l l ine s are u se d in s ho w i n g a body in sec


t i on and interior cav itie s are represented by dotted
,

l in e s as shown i n Fig 2 T h e co n tin uation of th e


. .

ou tli n e of a n obj ect w h ich pas s e s beh ind or into a n


o ther obj ect i s u s ua l ly i n
d i c a te d by dotted l ine s a s
s ho w n i n Fig 2 . . I n th e
s had ing o i projecting obj ects
i t is u su al to as su m e that
t h e l igh t fal l s u po n th e
obj e c t from th e u ppe r l e ft han d corn er o f the
pape r and the sa m e ru l e i s u su al l y fo llowed i n
i nd ic atin g de pr e ssio n s or c a v i tie s A gl a nc e a t Fi g
. .
PR ACT I C A L HA J D B OO K . I I

3 wil l b e s uffi c i e n t to S h u W t h at the c irc l e a t A rep


r e s e n ts a hol e o r cav ity w h il e B ,
in d icate s the hea d
o f a scre w . A t A the s ha d e fa l l s a t t h e uppe r l e ft
han d s id e wh il e at B it fal l s at th e lower righ t han d
s ide S o m eti m es in o rder to s h o w obj ect s w h ic h
.

are be h in d ot hers a n d i n o rd er to con vey a n idea


b o th of th e sec tion a nd e le vatio n at the sam e tim e
a p ie ce is represen te d a s broke n oil "
,

a s sh ow n a t A Fig 1 ,
I n oth er . .

ca se s obj ects are show n a s broken


ff becau se i t i s u n n ece s s ary to
prolon g t he ir l e n gth or w id th i n
F ig 3 o rder to con vey the id ea de sired as ,

at th e l e ft han d s id e of Fig 2 or a s is o fte n se e n i n


.

il l ustratio n s of artic l e s h av i ng lo ng han d le s l egs , ,

e tc , th e hand le s o r l egs be in g repre se nted a s b roke n


.

o ff.

A good q ual i ty l igh t w e igh t c a r d board w il l b e


of -

fou nd s up e rior to paper for watc h m akers u s e T he .

de s ign s s ho u ld be fi r s t d raw n l igh tly w ith a lead pe n


c il an d th e n gon e ov
,
e r care fu l ly w ith I n d ia ink ,

a ft e r wh ic h al l rem ain in g trace s o f th e pe ncil an d


fi n g e r m ar k s e tc m ay b e re m ov e d by m ean s of I nd ia
,
.
,

rubbe r or s tal e brea d A n u m be r 4 Faber pe nc il an d


.

pr e par e d l iquid I n d ia i nk wil l be fou n d th e m o st


,

co n ven i ent a nd de s irabl e I f yo u d e s ire h owe v e r


.
, ,

y ou m a
yp p re are yo u r o w n in k b
yg rin din g the stic k s
12 W ATCH M A K E R S AND J EW E L E R S
’ ’

with wate r D rawings made i n I n d ia in k are per


.

m an en t a n d a r e no t l iabl e to becom e obl iterate d by


,

co n stan t han d l ing a s are those m a d e w it h a l ead pen


ci l A bo u t al l th e in stru m en ts t h a t a w atc h m aker
.

w il l require for h i s draw i ngs are a good ru ler , a tri ,

an g l e T square a d rawing pe n com bina tio n co m


,
-
, ,

pas se s to tak e bow pe n and pencil a fe w c r ow q u ill


,
-
,
.

steel pe n s a protractor a d rawi n g board an d some


, ,

th u mb tack s .

T h ere are m any o ther in s trum e n ts tha t w il l b e


fo un d very u se ful a s yo u progres s bu t m any o f the m ,

can be m a d e by the inge n iou s wa tch m ak er fo r c o n


s id e r a b l
y l e ss than he can p urchase t h em an d at th e ,

sam e t im e the experie nc e gain ed i n t h eir m akin g w il l


pro ve v a l uab l e to h im .

The P r otr actor T h e protrac tor i s m a d e o f v ario u s


.

s ubstances horn har d r ubber ce l l ul oi d bras s an d


, , , ,

G erm an si l ve r and th e patte rn s vary a s m uch a s d o


,

the m ateria l s Fi g 4 reper . .

se nts a co mm o n form o f th e
i n stru me n t A complete ci r
.

cl e co n sist s o f 36 0 an d pro
°

tractors are some tim es m ad e


i n this form hav in g a bar ,
Fi g 4
acros s the ce n te r fo r t he pur .

pose o f ind icatin g th e ce n ter o f the arc I n th e sty l e .

s h ow n in Fi the arc i s d ivid ed i nto or


g 4 .
PRACT I CA L HAND B OO K . 13

hal t a c irc l e T h e protractor is u se d fo r d e te r m i n


'

on e - .

i ng an d for drawing angl e s of variou s d egree s T h e .

workm an can e a sily m ake a good protrac tor from a


piece o f sheet brass bu t care m u st be ta k e n i n lay in g
,

o u t the d egrees a nd as t h ey c a n be p urc h ase d fo r 2 5


,

ce n ts u pwar d i t is sel d o m worth w h i l e to m ake the m


, .

Tr i angles T riangle s sim ilar to Fig 5 are m a d e


. .
,

i n wood cel l u l oi d h ard rub


, ,

ber G erman sil ve r an d s tee l


,
.

T he inge n io u s work man


w i l l do w el l to m ak e a se t
of at least three tr i ang l e s o f

vario u s size s an d v ariou s


pitc h e s say o n e 4 5 degre es
, ,

a s per c ut an d o n e 3 0 a n d ,

6 0 d egree s a n d 3 4 an d 6 , ,

i n c h e s lo n g .

C ur ves .
pear woo d
C e l l u loid ,
or h ar d rubber
c u rv e s l ike ho se s how n i n
,

Fig 6 w il l al so be fou n d
.
,

v e ry u se fu l by t h e yo u n g
d ra ftsm an a s wit h t he m he
,

can do m uc h be tte r work


tha n b e o therwise co u l d .

T he se c u rve s i n a l l shape s
,

a nd size s may b e ge ne ra l l y
,
Fi g o 6

p u rchas e d a t artis ts supp l y d epo ts



.
14 W A TC H M AK E RS AND ’
J EW E L E R S

P ar allel Rules .
I n ru l ers t h e p aral le l i s pe rhap s
,

th e best patte rn to pu rchase a s w ith i t yo u can m ore


,

easily ru l e a co n si d erabl e n u mber o f l ine s tru ly par


a l le l a n d a l so are abl e to keep the m mor e n e ar l y an
equal d istance apart T h is form o f r ul e is s hown i n
.

Fig 7 a n d fro m the fig u r e th e st ude n t can readily


.
,

Fig . 7 .

in fe r the method o f u si ng i t T he T squ are i s fi rs t


.
-

set again st th e e d ge o f the dra w in g board a n d at th e


proper place an d th e paral l e l r ul e i s the n l aid again s t
,

i t th e arm s be ing fi r s t separate d


,
A fter drawing a .

l in e th e arm s are d raw n togethe r the requ ire d


a mou n t to pro d u ce t h e d e sired S p a ce betwe e n the
l in e s and anoth e r l in e is draw n A s t h e r u l e s a r e .

co n n ected by sw iv e l l ed arm s t h e l in e s m u s t of ,

n ecessity be paral l e l .

D rawi ng P ens E tc T h e draw ing pe n bow pe n


, . , ,

combin atio n co mpa sse s e tc are too we l l k now n to


, .
,

n ee d d e scriptio n bu t for t he b e n e fi t o f th e am a
,

ts ur who ha s n o k n owl edge o f th e se in stru m en ts ,


P RACT I CA L H A N D B OOK . 15

il l u s tra tion s are gi ven Fig 8 be ing a bow pe n an d


, .
,

F ig 9 com binatio n com pas se s T h ese


, .

tool s w il l be a l l that it is n ece s sary fo r


the amate u r d ra ftsm an to hav e i n or d e r
to make inte l ligen t d raw ings bu t the re
,

are m any oth er i n s tr u


m e n ts an d d e v ice s t hat
wil l b e fou n d u se fu l
as you progress i n the
art M any o f the se y o u
.

can m ake for yourse l f ,

i f y o u are so incl in ed ,

as for ex ampl e t he pro


8 . portion al co mpa s se s .

Pr opor ti onal C ompass es T he se .

i nstru m e n ts w h ic h are al so kno wn


,

u nder the n am e o f proportiona l


d i v ider s wi l l be fo u n d v ery u se fu l
,

i n m ak ing e n large d or re d uced dra w


in gs i n w h ich it i s e s se n t ial to m ain .

tain t h e re l ativ e proportio n s of th e


origin al T hey con s is t of two equal
.

legs term in atin g i n poin ts as s how n


in Fig I O
. . T h e l eg s are c u t th rou gh for a portio n
of the ir l en g t h a n d are pro v ided wit h a sl ide wh ic h
,

ac ts a s a h inge a n d w h ic h can b e cl a mped i n


,

an
y d e sir e d posi tio n by m ean s o f a s e t s cr e w .
16 W ATC HMAK E R S AN D J E W E L E R S
’ '

G raduatio n s are m arke d upo n th e e d ge s o f th e s lots '

so that th e l eg s m ay b e set so t hat th e upper or ,

sm al ler on e s w il l m eas ure


54 etc o f th e l ower one s
,
.
,
.

The T S quar e I n T squ are s


-
.
-
,

perhap s t h e be s t for al l ro u n d u se s
i s t he pattern k no w n as the pate n t
u n iqu e s q uare w h ic h is il l u strate d
,

in Fig 1 1 as i t co mbine s a l l th e
.
,

a d van tage s of th e ord i nary square


w ith fi x e d hea d wh i l e it i s a l so ,

v ery u se fu l for d iago nal l inin g


o f al l k in d s B y m ark ing a sca l e
.

o n th e edge o f you r drawin


g board ,

and anothe r o n t he in ne r e d ge of
th e hea d sim i l ar to th e v ern ie r
, ,

th e d istance s betwee n lin es ca n be


F 4 ] 10
. . made v ery accu rate and can be
brou g h t down a s fi n e as 23 o f a n inc h w itho ut tro ub l e
1
1 .

D r awi ng B oar d . T he
d rawin g boar d sho u l d b e
m ade o f sou n d we l l sea
,

soned woo d pre ferab l y


,

pin e as th e t h um b tack s
,

m ay be mor e readi l y i n
s e r te d an d re m ov ed from

pin e than h ardwood a nd F i g . 11 .


,
PA R T I I .

MATERI AL S EMPLOYE D B Y W AT C H M AKERS ,

TH E I R TREATMENT AND APP LI C ATI O N .

S teel . S t e el
m ay be regarded as a com pou n d of
iron a n d carbo n ge n e ral ly speak ing ; though othe r
,

s ubs tan c e s suc h as s il ico n e tc m ay b e pres e n t in


, , .
,

v e ry sm al l qu an titi e s I t ex h ibits a grea t v arie ty o f


.

tex tu re s a n d deg r ee s o f hard n e ss so m e being v ery ,

s o ft other s extre m ely hard


, T h e cry s tal l in e s tr u c
.

tu re a l so varies grea tl y ; som e are fi n e an d c lose ,

oth e r s a r e v ery open coarse and porou s T he se


,
.

qual ities fi t it for a great n u mb e r of u se s i n div ersi


fi e d s itu ation s an d i t i s o f th e h igh est im portan ce
,

that th e st e e l u se d sho uld be adapted to the p ar


ti c u la r requ irem e n ts .

T h e yo u n g w atch m aker s hou l d accu s tom h im se l f


to s tudy the d i ffe r e n t v a rie t ies o f s te e l h e i s work in g .

H e wil l th u s b e abl e to se lect th e prop e r variety o f


s te e l for any partic u lar pu rpose w he n cal led u po n to

do n ew work or to m ake parts w h ic h can n ot be pu r


,

c h a sed from m at e rial deal ers H e sho u l d al so ob


.

serv e clo sely th e c h ange s tak in g p lace d urin g th e


O p e ra tion s of harden in g an n eal in g an d tem perin g
, ,

th at h e m ay k now ho w to cond uc t th e m properly .


W A TC H M A K E R S AN D J E W E L E R S
’ ’

For mos t horologic a l p urp os e s s uc h a s m ak ing ,

pin ion s pivots sta ffs etc ca st stee l i s pre fe rr e d b e


, , ,
.
, ,

ca u se i t ca n b e h igh ly pol ish ed t u rn ed p er fe ctly ,

ro un d an d doe s n ot g e t d isto rte d in smoothin g .

S teel for cy l in d er e s cape m e n t s s ho u l d be dra w n .

T h e rea son is tha t th e greater d u ctil i ty of draw n


ste el re n d ers it le ss l iabl e to cr a c k i n harden in g .

To B end Temper ed S teel I t v e ry frequen tly hap


.

pen s to t he repairer t hat h e d e s ire s to b en d a sprin g ,

b u t fearing th e ri sk o f breaking i t aba ndo n s the i d ea , .

I n s uc h a c ase t he fol l owing h in t m ay be u s e fu l


S uppo se it is de sirab l e to be n d a side c l ic k spring o f
a S wis s bri d ge w atch w h ic h by the way i s gen eral l y
, , ,

m ad e o f poor steel L ay hol d of the en d i n wh ich


.

th e scre w goe s w ith a pair o f bra s s nosed sl idin g -

to ngs hol d ing i t i n the l e ft han d ; t he n pres s a piece


,

o f bras s again st the c l ick be nd ing it i n th e d ir e c tio n


,

d e sire d an d at th e sam e tim e hold ing it o v e r th e


, , ,

fl am e o f a spirit lam p u n til th e cen ter or spring part


becom e s a s traw or d ark re d colo r T his w il l ha ve .

th e d e sired e ffect T h e fac t that s pr i n g te m p e r e d


.
~

steel is bro ugh t to a dar k re d bl u e twe n ty tim e s o v e r ,

w il l n ot re d u ce it belo w its form er te mper ; on th e


contrary it w il l te nd to e qua l ize and impro v e th e
,

tem per an d re n d er i t less l iabl e to brea k A g a i n .


,

suppo se a cy l in der pivot o r any p ivo t o n a ny of th e


,

e scap e men t p a r ts a r e b en t a n d y ou wis h to s tr a igh te n


PR A C T I C A L H A ND B OO K. 2!

it by th i s proce ss : T ak e a s ma l l br a ss b u sh in g fi t it ,

to th e p ivo t and h o l d o v e r t he fla m e of t he lam p ,

b en d in g it at th e sam e ti m e i n th e d e sired d irectio n .

To Anneal H ar dened S teel I t m ay som etim e s .

happe n t hat har d e ne d stee l parts require a fe w fi n i s h


,

ing to uch e s w h i c h c a n n ot be d on e becau se they are


,

to o hard an d t he ir pol ish wo u l d be r uined by a n ne al


in g th e m ,becau se i t turn s bl u e a nd the piece the n ,

requir e s re newe d pol ish w h ic h co n su m e s a gre at ,

d eal of tim e T h e m o s t prac tical way t he n i s to


.

co ver th e stee l par t w ith th e oily d ir t fro m th e oi l


sto n e a fter w h ic h it ca n b e an n eal ed w ith im pu n ity
, ,

that i s th e fla m e i s wit h th e blo w pipe directed to


, ,
-
,

th e poin t re qu ired T h e artic l e is a fterwar d c le a n sed


.

i n be nzin e .

To W or k H ar d S teel I f stee l i s rathe r h a r d u n d er


.

the ham m er w h e n heated to th e proper c he rry re d


, ,

it may be co vered w ith sal t an d ham me red to abo ut


th e shap e d esired M or e so ftn e ss ca n the n be oh
.

ta i n e d i f requ ired to g iv e a furthe r fi n i s h to the


,

shap e by sprinklin g i t w ith a m ixtu re o f sal t bl u e


, ,

v itriol , s a l am m on iac sal tpeter a n d a l u m m ade


-
, ,

cherry r e d again sprin k l e d with t h is m ixt ure a n d


, ,

ham mered i n to shape T h is proce s s m ay be repeat e d


.

u ntil e n tir e ly fi n i s h e d W h e n ready , t he stee l i s


.

hard e ned in a so l u tio n o f t h e sam e m ixture T h is .

m e thod i s r e co m m e n d e d by prom ine n t w ork e r s .


W A T C H M A KE R

22 S AND j E W E L E R s

To D r aw Temper Pr om S mall Steel P i eces . P lac e


th e article s fro m wh ic h y ou d e s ire to d raw th e te m
per in to a com mon iro n c loc k key Fil l aro u n d it .

w ith bras s or iro n fi li n g s a n d the n p l ug u p t he o pe n


,

e n d w ith a s teel iro n o r bra s s pl ug m ade to fi t


, ,

c lo se lv T ake the
. han dl e of th e key w ith yo u r
pl y ers an d hol d it s pip e into the bl az e o f a l am p
,

u n ti l re d h ot an d then l et it coo l grad ual ly W he n


,
.

s u ffi c i e n tl
y col d to han d l e rem ov e th e pl
,
ug a n d y ou ,

w i l l fi n d th e articl e w ith its t e m per ful ly drawn ,

bu t i n al l oth er re sp e cts j us t as it was be fore T h e .

reason for h av ing th e articl e th u s pl u g ge d u p while


passing it th ro ugh t he heating and coo l i ng p ro .

ce s s is that sprin g in g al way s re su l ts from t he


,

action o f c hangeabl e c urre nt s o f atmo sph ere T h e .

te m per may be draw n from cy l in d ers sta ffs p in ion s , , ,

o r any other d el icate p iece s by t his sam e m et hod

w ith per fect sa fe ty .

To R es tor e B ur nt S teel B ora x 3 o zs ; s a l a m mo


. , .
-

n i a c 8 ozs pru ssiate of pota sh 3 o zs ; bl u e c lay 2 ,


.
, ,

ozs ; resin }4
.
,
pou n d ; water I gil l ; al coho l I gil l
, ,
.

P ut al l on the fi r e an d sim mer til l it drie s to a p o w


d er T h e steel is to b e h e ate d dippe d i n this powder
.
, ,

an d a fterwar d ham m ered .

To S oi ten S teel . H eat i t brown red , an d pl u ng e i t


in so ft water ; river wa te r is be s t D o n ot h e a t o ver .

red b rown , h ow e v
e r e ls e i t b e co m e s
,

h ar d w he n
P RACT I CA L HAN D B OOK . 23

pl u nged B u t i f yo u pl u n ge i t a s soo n a s i t turn s


.

red th e s te e l w il l b e so ft e nough to c u t w ith


e ase .

Plat P0118 ]! 01 Steel W ork T o pol is h suc h par ts as .

r o l lers and co l l ets fi r s t ge t a fla t s ur face by rub b ing


, ,

w ith fi n e e m ery o n a glass pl ate or a b e ll m e tal bloc k , -

a n d a fterward fi n i s h off o n a zin c bloc k w it h d i am a n

t ine ; bu t for l e ve rs you m u st use a long fla t bel l , ,

m e tal o r z in c pol i sh er an d pr e s s the l e v er in to a ,

p iece o f so ft wood ( wil lo w i s the be s t) in th e v is e ,

m o v in g th e pol i sh er i n s tead o f t he work For large .

a rticl e s s uc h as in d exes o r rep e ater rack s wh ic h a r e


, ,

n ot so lid and spring it w i l l be fo u nd be s t to wa x


, ,

t he m on to a s m al l brass block an d pol is h t he m


u n d e rh and in t h e sam e m an n er a s rol lers
, .

P oli s hi ng S teel I f t h e s teel is o f m odera tel y


,

good te m pe r u se a zinc pol ish e r with d iam an tin e ; a


,

ti n pol isher is be tter for so ft s te e l T h e diaman ti n e .

s ho uld be m ixe d o n glas s u sing a b eate r al so of , ,

glas s w i th very l ittl e watch oi l D iamantin e m ixe d


, .

wit h oil becom e s gu m m y a n d q u ite u n fi t i n a day or ,

two a nd tu rn s black i f bro ugh t in to co ntac t w i th


, ,

m e tal in m ix in g
,
.

To P oli s h S teel T ak e c roc u s of ti n o x id e an d


. ,

rad uate it in the s a m e way a s preparin g dia mo n d


g
d u s t an d apply i t to t h e s te e l b y m ean s of a piec e of
,

s o ft iro n or b e l l m e ta l made i n prop e r for m , a nd


-

,
24 W ATCH MA K E R S AN D ’
J W E
E L ER S

prepared w it h flour oi e m ery sa me a s for pivot ,

burn ishers ; u se th e coarse st of the crocu s fi r s t a n d ,

fi n i s h o fl w ith th e fi n e s t T o iro n or so ft s te e l a bet



.

ter fi n i s h m ay be give n by b urn is hing t han can be


i mparte d by the u se of po l is h ing pow d er o f any kin d
w hate ve r T h e G e rm an m etho d of pol ish ing stee l
.

is per form e d by the use o f crocu s on a bu ff w h ee l .

N oth ing ca n e x c ee d th e s urpa s sing beauty imparte d


to steel o r e ve n cast iro n by th is proce ss .

To R emov e R us t fr om S teel Fo r c l ean ing p u r .

poses e tc kero se ne o i l or be n zin e are probably t he


,
.
,

be s t th ing s know n W hen ar tic l e s hav e becom e


.

p i tte d by r ust howe ver t h e se can on ly b e re mo ved


, ,

by mech anical m ean s s u c h a s sco uring with fi n e


,

pow d er or flo ur o f e m e r y a n d oi l or w i th very fi n e
, ,

e m ery paper T o pre ve n t stee l fro m r u s tin g r ub i t


.
,

w i th a m ixtu re o f l im e an d o i l o r with m erc uria l ,

oi ntm en t e ither o f which w i l l be fo u n d val ua bl e


, .

To Pr otect S teel A fter h av ing c l eaned the iro n


.

o r stee l artic l e anoint it with a sol utio n o f wax i n


,

ben zin e u sing a fi n e cam el s ha ir bru s h B y this


,

.

treatm en t artic l e s exposed to acid vapors m ay be


, ,

protec ted against ru sting A nother m e thod i s to


.

cover the stee l o r iron w ith a l a y er o f a m ixt ure


obtained by boil ing su lph u r w ith turpe n tin e oi l ;
thi s e vaporate s an d l e av e s th e s u lp h ur u pon th e
s ur fac e as p ure s u lph ur wh ic h agai n c om b in e s w i th
,
26 W A T CH M A KE RS ’
A ND J EWE L E R S ’

o n ly satis facto ry m eta l for th is p urpo s e a s its ratio ,

o f expa n sio n an d co n traction is th e sa m e a s that o f

th e e nam el a n d con sequ e nt l y the l atter w i l l n ot


,

sca l e or crack o ff P u re copper a l though very so ft


.
, ,

is d i ffi c u lt to work w it h t he graver o r fi le as it is so ,

to ug h that it w il l th row up a bu rr in ste a d of co m ing


away w ith the tool .

Zi nc Z inc form erly c l l ed spe l ter is an el eme n


. ,
a ,

tary m e tal l ic body o f coarse grain britt l e an d s how ,

in g a bl u is h wh ite co l or wh e n fractured I t i s u sed .

i n th e form o f rod s for compe n satin g p e n d ul u m s .

I t i s brittl e at 3 2 F ma l leab l e at 2 0 0 F a nd bri tt l e


° °
.

at 4 0 0 F I t m e l t s at 4 2 0 F an d bu rn s with a
°
.
°
.

gree n flam e at re d heat form in g oxide of zin c I t i s


, .

an n ea l e d i n boi l in g water C om merc ial zin c g e n er


.

al ly contain s l ead arse nic an d trace s of iro n al l of


, ,

w h ic h con tribute to re nder it brittl e Pure zin c .

s hou ld n ot be m e l ted i n iron la d l e s a s i t wil l take u p ,

e nou gh iro n to inj ur e its m al l eabil ity ; fi r e cl ay or


pl u mbago crucib l es are genera l ly u se d w h e n i t i s
d esired to keep th e m e ta l pure I t sh rink s at the .

m o m en t of cry stal lization and hence wil l n ot make


,

a sharp castin g :
Ti n T i n is a w hite m e ta ] so ft with a ra th e r
. , ,

coarse an d gl isten ing fracture I t is u sed for makin g


.

s ol d er an d i n th e shape o f sm al l rod s for pol i shin g


, ,

with roug e For th is p urpose it is m u c h m or e


.
P R ACT I CA L HAN D B OOK . 27

efli cien t w he n pu re or n early s o T h e rea d ies t way to


,
.

j u d ge o f its p ur ity is to m e l t a p iece an d ca st it in a


s m al l m old abo u t $4 of an inc h in wi d th or diam e
A fter m e l tin g an d p 0 uring watch the m e tal
'

te r
.
,

W hil e coo l ing ; i f p ure it w i l l har d e n per fect l y smooth


w ithou t ex h ibitin g a n y sign s o f cry s ta l l ization at th e
m om e n t o f s olidi fica ti on wh il e th e pre s en ce o f smal l
,

q ua n titie s o f foreign m eta l s ca u se s it to be co vere d


w ith a n etwork o f n e ed l e l ike cry stal s wh ic h are the ,

m o re n u m erou s a s the m etal i s l e s s p u re .

Ni ckel N icke l is a gray is h wh ite m etal abou t a s


,
,

har d as iron an d capabl e o f a high poli sh I t re sists .

oxi d ation u n l e s s i n th e p res ence o f moistu re wh e n it ,

form s a re d dish o x i d e .I t ran k s n ex t to iro n i n


m agne tic qual itie s . I t is m uc h u sed in p lati n g an d ,

al so i n al loy s with iro n coppe r zinc t in a n d a n ti


, , , ,

m o ny B y the a dd itio n o f 1 0 to 1 0 o f m agne siu m


.
1 3
,

or o f 1 17 o f pho sphoro u s n ickl e beco m e s m al le abl e


2
,

an d d u ctile a n d is rol l e d i n to she et s an d d raw n in to


w ir e s I t is u se d for m aking th e pl ates and cock s
.

for w h at are k n o wn as n ick el m o ve men ts i n A meri


can watche s ,
To Res tore the C olor of Ni ckle Mov ements T ake .

parts o f r ec ti fi e d alcoh o l 1 part o f s u l ph uric acid


5 0 , ,

a nd 1 p a r t n itr ic acid D ip th e pi e ce s for abou t 1 0


.

to 1 5 seco nd s i n th i s co m po sition the n d ip t he m in


,

c o ld w at e r a n d a fte r w a rd s in r e c ti fi e d alcoho l
,
D ry .
28 W A T CH M A K E RS

AND J E W E L E R S

t h e m w i th a piece o f fi n e l in en o r i n sawd u st ,
.

N icke l an d the greater part o f those m etal s l iabl e to


t arn ish m ay be re store d to th e ir prim itive co l or by
,

d i pping i n the fo l l o win g bat h : D isso l ve in a hal f a


l ass o f water 6 o r 7 g ra in s o f cy an i d e of pota s s i u m ;
g ,

p l unge th e p iece s i n th i s so l u tion and with d raw th e m


im m ediate ly A s th e c v . a n i d e m ix e s wel l w ith w a ter ,

it i s s u ffi c i e n t to rin se the m once i n th e l atte r to d e


stroy any trace o f th e cya n ide A fter thi s d ip th e .
,

pie ce s in al coho l an d d ry the m i n box woo d d u st in


, ,

o r d er to kee p th e m fro m ru stin g T h e ba l an ce e ve n .


,

t oge t h er w ith i ts sprin g can be s ubj ected to this,

operation w i thou t any dan ger I f the piece s to be .

re store d are grea sy the y m u s t be c l ean ed w ith ben


,

zin e be fore be in g d ipped in the cya n i d e beca u se i t ,

w i l l not to uch grease C y an i d e o f potassiu m be ing


.
,

a v io l en t poison great care h a s to be exercised a n d


, ,

th e operation shou l d be per form e d in a we l l v e nti


l ate d p l ace T h e sam e bath can be pre se rv ed in a
.

bottl e and serve s for a long tim e


,
.

G erman S i lver G erman sil ver is an alloy of cop


.

e r n icke l an d zin c with a n occasion al a d dition o f


p , ,

ti n W h en u sed i n obj ect s t h at re qu ire so l dering 2


.

per c e n t of l ea d is a dd e d W he n th i s is th e ca se it
. .

is so metim e s cal l e d sil ve r so ld er I t has a m ore .

y el l ow appearan ce than n icke l i s so fte r fi n e r an d , , ,


°

c los e r ; ta k e s a h i gh poli s h a n d do e s n ot ox idiz e


,
PRACT I CA L H AN D B OOK .
29

r e ad ily I t ha s a n e x tend e d u s e in th e ar ts for fi u e


.
,

too l s a s m ath e m atic a l i n s tr u me nts etc an d was fo r


, ,
.
,

m erly m u c h u sed a s a b asis fo r el e ctro pla te d w are -


,

etc I t is al so m u ch u se d i n E u ropean wa tch m ove


.


m e nts o fte n erron eou s ly te rmed n ick el m ov e
,

m e n ts G er ma n sil ver i s u sed on ly for th e pl ates


.
,

cock s an d bars a n d al l h ol e s n ot j eweled are bu s he d


,

with bra s s a s G erman sil v er soon b lacken s an d


,

d e stroy s t h e oi l an d th e p ivot s wear soone r than


,

Whe n wor k ing i n hard bras s For th i s reas on it ha s


.

n o t b e e n pop u lar w ith w a tc h m akers for the cheaper

grad e o f watc he s i e tho se w itho u t j ewel s


, . . .

Alumi ni um T h i s i s a w h ite m etal m al l eabl e


.
, ,

d u ctil e a n d capabl e o f a high pol ish w h ic h ta r ,

n i she s o n lon g exposure to th e a ir g iv ing th e m e tal ,

t h e color o f pewter I t s ch ie f u s e wh e n p u re i s in
.
,

situa t ion s w h ere l igh tn e ss i s desired a s it i s on ly o ne ,

fo u rth the weigh t o f sil ver T h is make s it desirabl e


.

for th e han ds o f large clock s s p e c ta c le b ow s an d th e , ,

t ube s of t e l e scopes etc I t h a s a n ex te n siv e u s e i n


,
.

al l oy s ; a n alloy of 9 0 parts copp e r an d 1 0 part s of


al u m in iu m is m al leabl e d uctil e an d re sists wear to
, ,

s uc h a n e x ten t that it i s m uch u se d for boxe s o f


l ath e s an d oth er parts o f fi n e to o ls I t i s u sed for .

l e ve r e scape w h ee l s an d som e oth er parts of watch es


, ,

and al so o n acco u n t o f its go ld e n color for th e cases


, ,

of ch e ap watche s b u t the l atter a l w a s ta r n is h w he re


, y
30 W A TCH M A K E R S ’
AN D J E W E L E R S

not s u bj e c t to dai l y w ear I t al so has a n ex te n sive .

u se in c heap j e w e l ry u n d er th e n am e o f or e ide , ,

R oman go l d e tc ,
.

S older s and S olderi ng A sol d er i s a n a lloy .

e m ployed to u n ite by m ea n s o f heat tw o m e ta l l ic


, ,

bodies placed i n co n tact T o d o this a solder m u st .


,

be m ore fu sib l e th an th e m e ta l s it u n it e s o therwise ,

th e l a tt e r wo u l d be d amage d by th e h eat u sed to


m el t th e sold e r I n th e e ve n t o f sol d e rin g a piec e
.

of w ork wh ich require s sev e ral sol derin gs at or n ear

th e sam e pl ace the l a st al loy u sed wil l requ i re to be


,

con s iderably m ore fu sibl e than t h e fi r s t o r oth e r ,

w i se th e h eat wo ul d b e so grea t tha t th e e arl ie r


j oints wo u l d m e l t .

S ol d ers are co m m only d ivi d ed i n to tw o group s ,

k n own re sp ectively as hard an d so ft sol d ers T h e .

form e r fu se o n lv at a red h eat w h ile th e l a tter fu se ,

a t l ow degre e s o f h eat T h e fol lowing tabl e s how s


.

th e co m po si tio n o f vario u s hard so l d ers w h ic h h a v e


stood a practica l test fo r v ario u s p urpo ses :

De s c r ip t i on . Pa rts B rass . Pa r ts Z i n c. Pa rts T in .

R r
e f a c tor y
R ea d il y Fus i bl e
H lf W it
a h e
W h it e
V e ry Du c t il e
PR A CT I C A L H AN D B OOK .
3 1

Gold f

s old e r s
s hou l d approac h th e ar ticle s to b e
so ld ered i n both co l or an d fu s ibi l ity as n early a s
possibl e T h e fol low ing gol d sol d er s are i n gen eral
.

u se

De s cr p t i i on .

H r d S ol d er for 750 fi n e
a
S oft S ol d e r for 750 fi n e
S ol d er for 583 fi e n

S ol d er for l e s s th a n 583 fi n e ,

T h e fol lowin g h a rd s il v er sol d e rs have bee n tho


rough ly tes ted :

De s c ri p t i on
Pa r ts Pa r t s P ar ts
.
F i ne S ilv e r . C 0 p p er . B rass .

T he so ft so ld e r m o s t fr e que n tly u sed co n sis ts of 2


par ts o f ti n a n d 1 of l ead T h e follow in g tabl e gi ve s
.

th e co m po s i tion o f variou s so ft sol d e rs w i th th e i r

r e sp e cti v e m e l tin poin ts :


g
W ATC H MAK E R S AN D J E W E L E R S

’ ’
32

Pa r ts t
Par s M lte s at Par ts Pa r s t M e lt s a t
T in . L ead . D eg F . . T in . Lea d . De g F . .

S olderi ng Fluxes a so ld er i ng flu x fo r h ar d
. A s

so l der u se borax r ubbe d to a paste w it h wa ter o n a


,

slate For so ft sol d erin g d issol ve a s m a l l piece of


.
,

zin c i n pu re hy d roch loric aci d u n til e fi e r v


'

e sce n ce

cease s A fte r t w e n ty fo ur ho urs re mo v e th e u nd is


.
-

sol ved zinc fi lte r t he so l u tion ad d o n e th ird its vol


, ,
- .

u m e o f spirits o f sal am mo n iac an d d i l u te w ith rain


-

water T h is fl u id i s non corrosi ve


. W here two .

s mooth s u r face s are to be jo ine d toge ther yo u ca n ,

make a n exce l l en t j oint by m oiste n ing w ith the flu i d


,

and the n hav ing p l aced a s mal l s hee t of bri g h t look


in g l ead w hic h co me s a s a l in ing fo r te a boxe s
betwee n th e m pre ss ing fi r m ly togeth er ho ld over
, ,

you r lam p u n til th e l ea d m el ts T he c lo se s t k in d of .

a j oin t ca n be m ade i n this w ay .

P repar i ng Arti cles for S olderi ng T h e thoro ugh .

clean sing o f s ur faces to be j oin e d is o f th e u tm o st


.

im portance bu t more e spec i a l l y so i n th e case o f s o ft


solderin g T h is cl e a n sing may be effected by m ea ns
.
34 W A T CH M A K E RS AND J EW ELE R S
’ ’

go ld and si l ver : G ree n coppera s 2 o z sal tpe te r 1 oz


.
,
.
,

red uced to a po w d er a n d boi l e d i n 1 0 oz o f water


. .

I t w i l l beco m e cry stal ized on cool in g D isso lv e


.

the se c ry sta l s by th e a dd ition 0 1 8 parts of s p irits of


salts to each par t of cry stal s u sing a n earthe n ware
,

v e sse l
. A d d 4 parts of boil ing water keep th e m ix
,

ture h ot an d im merse th e articl e to be O pera ted upo n


an d th e sol d er wi l l be e n tire ly remo v ed w ithou t
inj uring t he work s .

S olderi ng C lamps T h e M agic R epair C lamps


.
,

s hown i n Fig 1 3 wi l l be fou nd very u se fu l for b ol d


,

ing vario u s ki nd s of w ork W h il e s old e ring I n th e .


PRACT I CA L HAND B OO K .
35

il l u s tration on e o f th e c lam ps i s shown hold ing the


,

d ia l i n positio n w h i l e the foot is he l d by the other


c l am p i n th e positio n i n w h ich it i s to be so ld ere d .

T h is too l is so arrange d that th e e n d scre w s an d


han d l e m ay be u se d as feet so that t he too l w ith the
work i n i t wi l l stan d u p th us l eav ing the O perator
,

free to use a sbe sto s b l oc k or charcoal in one han d an d

th e blow pipe i n the other T h e n u mber of position s


.

in w h ic h th is too l ca n b e plac e d and al so its u se s


a r e al mo st lim itl ess . S oldering tweezers sim il ar to
,

thos e s hown i n Fig 1 4 w i l l al so be fo un d v ery u se


.
,

fu l fo r h ol d in g s m a l l work w h ile so ld erin g T hey .

m ay be obtain e d fro m m ateria l dealers gen eral ly .

Watchmak er s C ement T h e be st l ath e ce men t or



. ,

wax wh ic h i s kept for sal e by al l dea l e rs in tool s an d


,

m at e rial s i s prepared i n t h e fol lowing way E ight .

oun c e s o f th e be st gu m s he l lac are thorough ly in co r


p o r a te d W it h o n-e hal f o u n ce o f u l tramarin e bl u e .

T he s h e l lac i s fi r s t d isso l ved i n a sm all quan ti ty of


water ov er a san d o r W ate r bath an d th e u l tramarine
-

a d ded grad ual l y T h is mak e s the stronge st a n d b e s t


.

wax for u s e on c e m e n t bras s e s o r ch u ck s .


36 W ATC H MAK E R S A ND J EW E L E R S

Mode ot Applyi ng L athe Wax . m


apply ing wax
in th e l at h e it is e s se n t i al t h at the wax ch uck or
cem e n t bras s be t horo u g h l y fre e d fro m al l o ld an d
burn t cem e n t O h t h e face o f cem e n t c hu cks or
.

bras ses wi l l be seen a serie s o f con ce ntric c i rc l e s cu t


w ith a grave r a s s hown in Fig 1 5 T he se c ircl e s
, . .

are cu t to i ncrea se the a d h e s 1o n o i the ce m en t Do .

n ot a l l ow the m to be fi l l ed up w ith o ld bu rn t ce m e n t .

I t is o f th e u tmo s t im portan ce that th e ch u c k


be brough t to th e righ t h eat be fore
th e wax is appl ied I f w a x is
.

app l ie d to a co l d c h uck i t will n ot


hol d fi r m ly and i s v ery l iabl e to
sca l e oh wh i l e y ou a r e i n the ac t
"

F i g 15
. .

o f per form ing a v ery im portan t par t o f th e work .

Keep the c h uck revol v ing i n th e lathe w h i l e heatin g


an d al so w h il e apply in g th e wax A pp ly as l itt l e
.

w a x a s po ssibl e betwee n th e obj ect and the c h u ck .

I f yo u apply a thick lay e r t h e obj e c t wil l lo se its


,

ri g id ity
. H old th e obj ec t again s t th e face o f t he
ch u ck by m ean s o f a p eg woo d s u pport e d on the T
rest . A fter cen te ring to pos i tion re move th e l am p
a n d a l lo w th e ch uc k to r e vo l ve u n til th e w a x s e ts .
PA R T I I I .

L I G H T AND P O S I TO N .

T he preservati o n o f the h ea l th is m o s t im portan t ,

as i t e xerc i se s an i mportan t i n flu e n c e o n the keen n e ss


o f the sigh t an d th e s tea d ine ss o f th e han d tw o o f ,

t h e ch i e f requ ire m e n ts o f a wor k man Good habits


.

co n tracte d i n yout h are so me time s d i ffi c u lt to


keep u p bu t w he n t h e watch make r ha s trie d t he m
,

long e n ough to be co n v ince d o f the ir i n flu e n c e o n


h is hea l th an d con se qu e nt l y o n h is work h e wi l l
, ,

appreciate the m s u ffi c i e n tly to keep th e m u p .

The Glass . No watch m aker s hou l d u se a g l as s


that i s n ot tru l y acro m atic I f o n look in g at a ny
.
,

brigh t obj ec t rings of co lo re d l ig h t appear in th e


,

gla s s or a frin ge o f co l ore d l igh t aro u n d th e obj ect ,

the gl ass shou ld b e rej ecte d as u n fit fo r u se I f com .

p e lle d to u se a gl as s o f this n ature tak e a s ma l l


brush an d som e black l u sterle ss pain t an d pain t a
,

ring aro u n d the in si d e o f the l en s com m encin g at th e


,

fram e an d g ra d ua l l y work ing towar d th e ce n ter u n ti l


the colors d isap pear Or a ri n g m ay be c u t o u t o f
.

p a p e r b 1a c k e n e d an d p u t in si d e th e frame n ext the


,

l e n s T h i s wi l l d i m in is h t he fi e ld o f v
. i e w bu t it w i l l
,

be m u c h e a sier o n th e eye Do not u se gl a sse s o f


.

too grea t power as they n e e d le s s lv


,
tire th e ey e I t .
38 W ATCH MA K E R S A ND J EW E LE RS
’ ’

is we l l to h a Ve sev eral glasse s o f d i ff eren t powers ,

an d to u se th e weakes t o n e s a s m uch as poss ib l e ,

re serv ing the stro nger g l asse s fo r u se on ly o n the


most d elicate operat ion s T h e glass shou l d n o t be
.

hel d i n position by con tractin g th e m u sc l e s o f th e ey e


for more than a mom en t o r two A g l a ss hol d er can
.

be m a d e o f twiste d w ire o r an o ld mainspring can be


,

ri vete d o n the fram e o f th e glass so that it w il l m ain


tain the g l as s stea d il y i n any pos i tion w ith n o s u s
c e p tib le p r e s s u r e
.
. A fe w hol es shou l d be d r i l l ed in
th e fram e o f th e g lass near th e ey e to v e n til ate it
,

an d th u s a vo i d t he irritation cau se d by th e heati ng of


the e nclo se d a ir an d th e d epo sitio n o f m oi sture o n
th e in ne r su r face o f th e l en s .

I t is a goo d practice to h abituate yo ursel f to u sing


e i th e r ey e wit h th e glas s I n m any d el ica te opera
.

t i o n s th is wi l l freq ue n t l y a l l o w a m uc h easi e r posi


t i o n of the b od vthan i f bu t o ne eye were u se d .

L i ght T h e watc h m aker s h ou ld u se a w in d o w fa c


.

i ng n orth whe ne v er pos s ib l e a s t h e l igh t fro m th e


,

north i s m ore e ven ly d i ffuse d ; sha d ow s are n o t cast


by i t ; r e fle c ti on s d o n ot both er th e operator an d a ,

giv en fi ni s h o n any m eta l w i l l al ways ha ve t he


sam e appearance C o n seque n t l y th e operator can
.

work m ore rapi d ly and with l e ss fatigu e tha n wh en


h e is working by a chan g eabl e l i g h t a s i s al way s the
,

case w here th e s u n s trikes the ben c h for a por tion o f


PR ACT I CA L HA N D B OO K .
39

th e d ay I f m u c h bo thered by s u n l igh t strik ing the


.

po l ish e d m etal a n e ngraver s g l a s s s cree n m ay be


,

u se d T h is is a large do ub l e con v ex bott l e mou n te d


.
,

i n a fram e so a s to be easily a d j u ste d to any position .

T h is is fi lle d with water sl ight l y tinge d w ith an i l in e


bl ue an d th e y e l low ray s o f th e s u n l ight passing
, ,

t hrough th e bl u e beco m e c hanged to green w h ic h i s ,

a rest fu l co l or and doe s n ot an noy the ey e A v ery .

s l i g h t a m o u nt o f b l ue is s u ffi cien t O thers u se a


.

m u sl in c u rtai n strong l y b l u ed in w a sh ing an d som e ,

varn i sh t he w in d o w g l ass w ith a color l es s varn i sh


co n tain in g a sl igh t ad m ix ture of b l u e I t wi l l sel d om
.

be fou n d n e c e s sary to resort to the se m e thod s how ,

e ver u nl e ss co m pe l le d to work in extre mely u n favor


,

abl e situat io n s
.

P os i ti on when worki ng D o no t u se a stoo l with


.

a stu ffe d seat a s it frequ en tly cause s irr it ation by


,

pressu re on th e prostat i c g l an d A stool w ith a can e


.

wood or l eather top w i l l be fou n d m u c h better tha n


,

on e with a so ft c ush io n T h e top sho ul d be l ar g e


.

eno ugh to a l low a fre quen t c hange o f po sition I t .

shou ld hav e an a d j u sting scre w to e nabl e t he work


ma n to c hange th e h eight at wil l th u s avo i d ing com
,
~

pre ssio n of th e m u scle s of th e ch e st and n eck d uri ng


any l ong an d tedio u s op e ration A h o ld piano stool
.

w ith a broad seat cov ered w ith ca l fskin tight l y


,

s train ed o v e r th e upho l s te ry so a s to h a rde n i t


, ,
40 W ATCH M A K E R S AN D J EW E LE RS
’ ’

make s a v ery goo d stoo l an d can be pu rch ased ch e aply .

B y th u s prov i d ing h im sel f w it h th e mean s o f c hang .

ing h i s po sitio n easi l y an d freque n tly th e work man


,

w il l avoid cra mping o f t h e l egs c h e st an d n eck irri


, ,
.

t a ti o n at th e base o f the spi n e backach e and variou s


, ,

other ill s arise from i m proper po sition s in work in g


an d by being care ful to s it a s erec t l y a s po s sib l e ,

ro u n d sho u lders and m u c h s tra in on th e ey e s w il l be


,

avoided .
W ATC H MAK E R S AN D J E W E L E R S
’ ‘

Do n ot be a frai d of u sing n ew fi le s i n th e a b ov e
practice as the wear w i l l n ot inj u re t h e m b u t rather
brin g th e m in to goo d co n d i tio n for working iro n or
stee l.

W he n fi li n g a n obj ec t wh ic h i s h el d on a cork o r
woo d block fi x e d in a v i se an d on e h an d on l y is u sed
,

for fi li n g specia l car e shou ld be t a ke n to la y the fi le


,

fla t w i tho ut a ny h e sitatio n a ft e r e a c h re tu rn s troke ,

an d th e h an d sh ou l d be abl e to fee l i f th e fi le i s
i n th is re spect a nd to at once brin g it flat .

Mechani cal D ev i ces for Fili ng P lat T h e re are .

m any m ec hanical d ev ice s for fi li n g fla t bu t th e tw o


exam pl e s here s ho wn are amo ng the be s t L e t it b e .

su ppos e d that we de sir e to fi n i s h u p t he sq u are on a


fu see or a b a r r e l arbor ; y o u wil l n a tu ra l ly fi n d som e

d i fii c u lty i n fi li n g th e sid e s of th e squ a re fi a t i f y o u ,

procee d in the or d inary m an n er N o w w e w il l su p .

po se y o u h av e a d ead ce n ter lathe ; p lace y our arbor


-

F ig . 16 .

be tw ee n th e dea d ce n ters a l lowing it n o e n d play


- -
, ,

but per fe ct fre e d o m to re v ol v e N ow i f w e hav e in


.
,

th e fi rst p l ace m ade a fla t on the side s w e m ay


, ,

app l y the fi le to t he s u r face w he n sw ingin g be t w e e n


c e n ters w ith per fe ct i mp u nity a nd be a s su r e d t ha t
,
PRACT I CA L HA N D 3 00K .
43

th e s ur face w il l fol lo w th e d irec tion o f the fi l e o r


bu rn ish e r a s th e case may b e T h e two ce nters C .
, ,

are s uppose d to be fi x e d i n th e ir r e sp e ctive p l ace s ,

w h ile th e arbor B is free to r e vol ve an d the s q uare


, , , ,

F ca n b e fi n i s h e d up w it h p e r fe c tly fi a t sides
, T he .

fi le b e ing appl i e d to the fla t F the fr e edom of m oti on


, ,

wil l e n a b l e t h e articl e to m ee t i t at a ny position th e


fi le m a y t a k e . I n po l ish ing t he v al ue o f th i s l itt l e
,

too] will becom e m ore appare n t for y o u h av e d o ubt ,

l e ss n o tic ed that t ho ugh y ou m ay hav e file d a s u r


,

fa c e fi a t it w il l al m o st in var i ab l y ro u n d up i n pol is h
,

i ng . W h e n s m al l th i n w ork is to be do n e th a t w i l l
, ,

n ot ad m it o f s winging be twee n c e n ter s l ik e a n a r b or


,

th e fol l ow ing a t tac h m en t m ay b e u se d .

Fig . 17 .

cr a dl e a s it we re w h ic h i s m a d e o f bra s s
T his , , ,

ac ts i n th e sa m e m an ne r a s doe s th e arbor w he n
sw un g b etw e e n the ce n ters S h e l l ac th e p iece s to
.

b e file d o n the cra d l e S a nd p rocee d t he sam e a s


, ,

w ith t he arbor L e t th e hol e s for th e ce n ter s b e


.

deep e no ug h to p re ve n t t h e cradl e fro m d roppin g


ou t d u rin g th e fi li n
g proce s s W ork can be fi led
.
,
44 W ATCH M A K E R S ’
A ND J E W E LE R S

ston e d and fi n a lly po l ish ed w it hou t remov ing fro m


th e cradl e.

T h e work man m ay make th e crad l e o f any s ize


a n d l engt h to acco m mo d ate th e d imen sion s of the
p i ece s h e wishe s to work o n a n d as it is so easi ly
,

m ade he m ay have a n u mber o f d i ffer e n t si ze s an d


an d d e pth s I n p l an ting t h e cente r s o n wh ic h it i s
.

to v ibrate it m u st be take n in to con si d eration that


,

the n earer the l in e o f th e c en ters the su r face to be


worked the tru er w i l l be th e work as it wi l l vi brate
, ,

m u ch m ore ea s ily t h an w he n t h e s u r face fal l s be l o w


th e ce n te r
.

P i li ng S quar e H oles T o fi le a squ are hol e it


.

i s n eces sary to re verse th e work v ery o fte n ; a


square fi le sho ul d fi r s t be u se d an d th e hole s fi n i s h ed
,

w ith eithe r a d iamo n d shape d fi le o r a ha l f ro u n d


- - .

T h is l eave s th e corners sq uare a s th ey proper l y ,

s h ou ld b e.

U s e 01 the G r av er J u st a s in workin g w ith th e


.

fi le a d v ice a n d d e mon stration by a good master are


,

he re in d ispe n sab l e T h e m ateria l s s h ou ld be worke d


.

i n the sam e or d er as expl ain e d u nder fi li n g i e ,


. .
,

h ar d w ood b r a s s iro n an d steel


, , T h e a ppren tice
.

sho u ld tu rn ex c l u sive l y with the poin t of a square or


loze n ge sh aped g rave r T h is i s th e o n l y po ssibl e
- .

m ethod o f learning to tu rn tru e a n d it e n abl e s th e


,

work m an to acqu ir e a grea t del icacy of touc h .


PR A CT I CA L HA N D BO OK .
45

A t Fi g . thr e e sty l e s of gravers a r e show n b u t


1 8, ,

the one marke d B is t he m o st app l icab l e for u se of


appr e n tic e s A voi d gravers o f t he s ha p e of C u n ti l
.

su ch tim e as y o u h av e th oro ugh l y master e d the art .

T h e grav e r sho w n a s A is appl ic a bl e for al l ordin a ry


work on th e l ath e .

M uch d ep e n d s u p on th e cond ition of you r gr a v e rs


an d t h e m an n e r of u sing t he m I t i s o f the ut mo st
.

i mportan ce that th ey be k ep t sh a rp an d a s soon a s ,

they begin to s h o w th e s l ig h test sig n o f lo sin g their


kee n ne s s y o u shou l d sharpen
,

t h e m o therw ise y ou wil l be


,

i ncl in e d to u se pres s ure wh ich ,

w i l l soon re n d e r the h an d
heavy T w o w ay s o f hold ing
.

th e graver are show n i n Fi g .

19 .I f th e grav e r i s appl ie d
to th e work as show n a t A it ,

18 . wil l c u t a cle an sh av in g w h ile ,

appl ied shown at B it w il l ru in the poi nt o f th e


if as

grave r w ithou m aterial l y


t forwardin g t h e work .

H ol din g th e grave r a s show n at A a l so has other


ad v a nt a ge s T h e force o f th e c u t w hen th e g rav er
. ,

i s h eld i n thi s po s ition is toward s th e hand hol din g


,

sho u ld it ca tc h fr m any cau se th e j ar o f th e


i t and
,
o
ob structio n wil l be co n veyed im m ed iately to th e
ha nd an d i t w i l l n atur a l ly giv e ,
a n d n o h a r m w i l l b e
,
46 W A TCH M A K E R S AND

J EW E L E R S ’

don e I f on th e othe r hand the grav e r shou ld m eet


.
, ,

w it h an obstructio n wh il e h eld i n th e po sitio n in d i .

c a te d a t B th e force o f the s hock


,

w il l be in the d irectio n of th e
r e st d o w n war d as shown by the
, ,

arro w an d th e rest being rigi d


,

B
an d u ny ie ld in g the re su l t w i l l
, b e

d isas tro u s n ot on ly to th e graver


bu t to th e work a l so Do n ot .

F i g 19 atte mpt to rem ove m u c h material


. .

a t a tim e b ut r a th e r aim to se e h o w sm al l a s hav in g


,

can be m ade I n th is way y o u w il l acq u ire a d e l


.

i c a cy o f to uch tha t w il l prov e va l ua bl e to y o u in


a fter li fe .

Lubri cant for S harp eni ng C utti ng Tools . I n s te a d

of o i l, w hic h th icke n s an d m ake s the ston e d irty u s e ,

gly cerin e a s a l ubricant w h e n sharp e n ing you r


gravers T h e c utting su r face of a graver an d th e
.

am o un t o f pr e ssure e xerc i sed 0 n th e ston e w h il e ‘

sh arp e n ing be in g s m al l i t i s n ece s sary to e mp l oy


,

glycerin e al m os t pu re or w ith o n e or two d rop s o f


alcohol T h e proportio n s o f t he l ubrican t vary
.

a ccor d ing to th e in strum e n t operated o n A h articl e .

with a l arge s ur face s h arpe n s be st w ith a l im p i d


l iquid a s t hre e par ts of glycerine to o n e part of
,

al cohol Kerose n e oi l i s the be st th ing to u se a s a


.

l ubrican t for h ard s to n e s s uc h as th e A rkan sas .


PA R T V .

TO O LS AND APPLI ANCE S .

The B ench W atch m akers



. b e n c he s of vario us
patt e rn s both ope n an d cu r tain top m ay be p ur
,
-
,

chased rea d y m a d e fro m a l mo s t a ny m at e rial d ea l e r


-
.

T h e c u rtai n or r ol ler top benc h es po sse ss m a ny a d


-

van tag e s over th e ord inary ope n top be nch e s b ut the -


,

co s t so m e tim e s d ebars th e ir p urchase W ith a c ur .


.

ta in top b e n c h th e work m ay a l l be l e ft upon th e


-

b e n ch a t n ight t h e side raise d an d th e c urtain


,

d ropp e d an d th e top and al l th e drawers con tain in g ,

tool s a r e locked au tom atical ly th u s pre v en ting any


, ,

m eddl in g w ith tool s or wo rk and excl ud ing al l d u st .

T h e b e nc h s ho wn in Fig 2 0 is o n e o f th e lates t d e
.

sign s on the m ark et th e poi n ts c l aimed for i t be in g


,

th at i t i s raise d s u ffic i e n tly from th e grou nd to al low


s w eeping u nd er i t an d it s extre m e l igh tne s s T h e
, .

fr a m e is made of iron an d i s sim i lar to those use d for


,

sewin g m ach in e s T h e foo t w h eel is fa ste n ed to th e


.

iron fram e o n th e le ft in stead o f b e in g suppor te d by


,

uprigh t s fro m th e floor For th e b e n e fi t of thos e


.

w ho w i sh to hav e their b e nc h m ad e b y a loc a l car


p e n te r or c a bine tmake r a de sign i s s ubm it ted a t Fig , .

21 . T h is b e nc h is m ade o f bl ack wal n u t v e n e e re d ,

w i th Fr e nch w a l n ut a n d bird s eye m apl e T h e top



.

47
W A TCH M A K E R S AN D J EW ELER S
48

Fi g 20
. .
50 W ATC H M AK E R S AN D J E W E L E R S
’ '

W el l season e d bl ack wal n u t cherry red cedar ,


or

are the be st woo d s for a ben c h From th is ske tc h .

any fi r st cl as s cabin et m ake r shou l d be abl e to m ake


-

a good ben ch T h e l itt l e square pin attach e d to the


.

r ight han d e n d o f the ben c h i s a C arter p aten t peg


woo d c u tter w h ich is m a d e fa st to th e bench by
,

screw s a n d d i spe n ses w ith th e u se of a b e nc h k n i fe


,
-

to s harpe n pegwoo d ; th i s l itt l e too] i s a g roo v e d


p l an e with a stee l c utter that sh arpe n s th e pegw oo d
very n ice l y an d qu ickly an d on l y req u ire s th e u se o f
,

o n e h an d .

The Li ghti ng For n ig h t work o r d u ring dark


.

d ay s w here a l ight i s nece ssary per hap s noth in g w il l ,

be fou n d su perior to w hat is k n ow n a s th e stude n t


'

lamp T h i s l am p i s fi tte d w ith an A rgan d burn er a n d


.

u s e s kero se n e o i l I f gas is u se d a n A rgand bu rn e r


.

wi l l be fo u n d t h e m o st d e sirabl e W h ere poss ibl e .


,

either on ga s or oi l l amp s u se a d uple x gl a s s s ha d e, ,

whic h i s d ark gre e n o n the o utsi d e an d w hite on th e


in si d e T h is patter n shade throw s al l the l ig h t
.

d irectly o n the be n c h and shad e s th e ey e s fro m th e


,

g l are D o no t raise th e l a m p too h igh bu t ra ther


.
,

h ave i t at s uc h a h eigh t th a t yo u r e ye s are i n th e


sha d e w hi l e t h e work i s wel l in th e l ight .

The Alcohol L amp T h e sim p l icity 1a m p s h o w n


.
,

i n Fig 2 2 is a favorite o n e w ith A m erican watch


.
,

maker s I t ha s n i n e face ts on th e fo nt a n d it c a n
.
,
PR A CT I C A L HAN D B OOK .
51

r e ad ily be adj u s te d to a ny re qu ire d position C are .

s ho u l d be e xercise d t h at t h e wick s o f al coho l l amps


are n ot too tigh t a nd th e i nterior a nd ex te rior sho u l d
,

F 29 . 22 .

be k e p t fr e e fro m d ir t T h e w ic k s ho ul d b e k ep t
.

long e n o ugh to r e a c h w e l l dow n in to th e al cohol and


the fon t m u s t n ot b e fil l e d too fu l l .

011 S tones . I t is we l l to hav e a t leas t t wo goo d o i l


s ton e s o n e rath er so ft a n d coarse fo r fi r s t grin d in g
,

to sha pe , an d anoth er , s a y a T urke y ston e , for th e


W ATC H MAK E R S AN D J EW E LE R S
’ ’
52

fi nal edge T h e l ubrica n t for o i l s tone s h as al ready


.

bee n re ferred to o n page 4 6 S ho u l d th e s u r face o f


.

yo u r o i l stone s beco m e ri d ged t h rough i rregu lar


wear th e le v e l m ay b e r e store d by r ubbing the stone
,

o n a sm ooth board cov ere d w ith a pa ste of nn e sand

o r e m e ry a n d w ater S ho u l d th e s ton e s be com e


.

satu rate d w ith o i l or the ir s ur face s becom e im paired


owing to t h e gu m m ing o t t h e l ubrica n t t h ey s ho u ld
'

be p u t i n t o a ba t h o f stron g ly e or be nzin e a n d
a l lowe d to re mai n two o r th ree day s a n d th e o i l w il l,

be eate n o u t .

C i r cular Oil S tones C irc u l ar oil ston e s w il l be


.

fo un d m uc h s u perior to t h e or d inary flat o i l stone s


com m on l y u sed for sh arpe n ing d ri l l s graver s an d
, ,

o th er c u tting too l s w here it i s d e sirabl e to hav e an


,

exac t ang l e A n A rkan sas or T u rkey sto n e d re ss e d


.

do wn to c irc u lar form an d say in c h es in d iam


,

e ter wh en mo u n te d for the lath e w il l be fou n d to be


,

su perior to the ord inary fi a t ston e s A pply t h e .

l ubrican t to the ston e th e sam e a s yo u wo uld to a


flat on e an d ho l d you r gra ve r or dril l at the exact
,

ang l e y ou wan t the c utting ed g e s to b e a nd turn at ,

m o d erate S pee d T r ue r ang l e s a nd better work can


.

be pro d u ce d i n th is man n er than by any other .

E m ery o r coru n d um w h ee l s m ou n ted in a sim i l ar


man n e r wi l l be fo un d v e r y h an d y acc e s sories to th e
,

watch m a kers be n ch T h e w he e l s may be ob tain ed



.
PR A CT I CA L H A ND B OO K .
53

from m at e rial d eal ers or d en tal s upp l y hou se s i n ,

size s vary i n g from V2 x to 3 % x inc h e s A .

set of th re e or m or e w i l l pro v e v er y val uabl e fo r


'

grin d in g d ial s to al low free d o m o f m o tion fo r


,

wh e e l s w h e n fi tti n g n e w d ial s ; for gri nd ing m il l in g


,

c u tters dril l s grav ers e tc W he n p urc h ase d the se


, , ,
.

w heel s h av e a ce n tra l hol e an d t h e y can be m o un te d


.

for u se by th e watc h m ak er i n th e fo l l owin g m a nn er '

T urn d own a piece of N o 3 0 S tubbs s tee l w i re to


. ,

th e size o f th e ope n ing i n yo u r w h ee l an d ri v et the


,

w h eel fi r m ly upo n i t a s ind i cated in Fig 2 3 T h e . .


best size s for watch m ake r s u se are in ch 1 inc h ,

an d 1 % inc h in d iameter .

Fi les. A n e w file sho u ld n e ve r be u se d o n steel ;


it is be tter to u se it fo r a w h i l e o n bras s h an dl i ng i t
,

care ful ly A fi le that ha s bee n properly u se d a n d


.

h as passed fro m bra ss to steel wi l l l ast fou r o r fi v e

tim e s a s long a s o n e tha t ha s bee n u sed on stee l


wh e n n e w I f a n ew fi le b e e m ployed upo n stee l
. ,
54 W ATCH M AK E R S A ND J EW E LE RS
’ ’

or if sharp qu ick stroke s are made th e c uttin g e d g e s ,

of the file w i l l ch ip o ff a n d th e har d parti c l es w i l l

be embe dd e d i n the m etal operated upon inj urin g ,

b oth fi le an d work .

To Clean Old P i les Old file s tha t are cl ogge d


,

with d irt grease an d m et a l ca n be restored by boil


,

ing for ha l f to three quarters o f an ho ur in a sol utio n


-

o f 4 ou nce s o f sal erat us to a quart o f wate r A fter .

boil ing rin se in c l ean cold water a n d the n p lace the m


, ,

in a s olu tlon compo se d o f 4 ou nce s of su l p h u ric ac i d


to a qu art o f water T h e sma l l fi le s sho u ld be r e
.

m ove d at t h e e n d of thirty m in u te s bu t large r on e s ,

m ay rem ain in for two or th ree h ou rs A fte r r e .

m oval fro m th e bath wa sh i n cl ean water an d bru s h


with a sti ff brush u n til d ry th e n oi l thoro ugh l y to ,

pre ve n t r usting .

C enter i ng Tool T h is too l i s v ery easily m ade an d


.

w i l l sav e m uch tim e E v ery workman kno ws h o w


.

m u ch tim e is Spen t i n ce n tering u p in the u n i versal


hea d T o be su re t h ere is a nee dl e o r poin t wh ic h
.

play s through th e h ol e in th e c h uck b ut it is v ery har d ,

to ce n ter acc urate l y by i t Oi cou rse i f the work i s .


,

not p articu l ar the n ee dl e w il l d o b u t where i t i s e s se n


, ,

tia l that the work sh ou ld be acc ura tely ce n tere d th e ,

n ee d l e fail s T o center with th is t ool un sc rew you r


.
,

rest an d re m o ve i t th e n place the s ha ft 0 fi g 2 4 i n


, ,
.
,

re s t hold e r and adj u s t i t til l th e n e e dl e po in t R


PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K .
gs

T h e i n d ex
'

tou c h e s th e top of hol e a s s how n a t A .

h an d w i l l the n note th e var i ation s a s th e h ea d r e


v ol ve s I f th e w h e el is too l ow the in dex w i l l po i n t
.
,

abov e ce nter an d v ice v ersa B y ge n t l y tapp i ng t h e


.
,

w hee l can be acc urate ly c en tere d wh i ch w il l be d e


,

noted b y the in d ex han d re m ain ing m o tion l e ss at E .

T h e body o f th is i nd icato r is ma d e o f sheet brass and

Fig . 24 .

s ho ul d be abo u t fi v e in ch e s l ong by two inc h e s in


w i d th a t th e l arge r e n d
. T h e s hank c is ma d e to
, ,

fi t in re st hol de r an d is e ither rive ted or sol d ered to


th e bo d y ; R i s s tee l or copper w ire sharpened to a
fi n e poin t an d ba l ance s o n a pivot a t 1 ; B i s a n o ld
c l oc k han d p ivote d to t h e body at 1 ; 2 and 2 are
pivot j oin t s on ly an d d o not g o t h ro ugh th e bod y ;
C w il l p e rhap s give a better idea o f the e n d F
, ,
.
56 W ATCH MAK E R S AN D J E W E LE RS
’ ’

B r oaches . C are s hou ld be take n to see the that


han dl e s o f yo u r broac he s are properly fi tte d so t hat
t h ey re vo l ve tr u l y T o tes t t h is re st th e poi n ts
.
,

again st th e fi n ge r s of on e h an d and ca u s ing th e han


d i e to rotate by t w o fi n g e r s o f th e o ther hand t he ,

broac h itsel f s hou l d appear to re main tru e S eal ing .

wa x an swe rs th e p u rpo s e as a h a nd l e fo r broache s


v ery n icely and the broach ca n be ce n tere d i n it
,

witho u t troubl e I n t he l a tter ca se h ol d the broac h


.

be twee n tw o fi n ge r s with th e h an d l e e n d d o wn wa r d ,

an d rotate it w h il e h e l d c l o se to t h e fla m e of an
a l coho l lam p so that th e seal in g wax form s a reg ular
oblon g ha n d l e I t is wel l to ge n tly dra w a piece o f
.

iro n charge d w ith ro u g e al ong th e edge s of p ivot


broach e s i n or d e r to re mo ve the th rea d o f m e tal
fro m the m M i n u te particl es o f th is t h read m igh t
.

otherw ise rem a in i n the hol e s a nd occas io n wear o f


,

th e p i v o ts .

To S older B r ok en B r oaches S te e l broac he s an d


.

oth er too l s are so l d ere d by c l ean in g wel l the parts


broken t he n dipping t h em i n to a s o lu ti o n o f s u l phate
,

o f copper an d so ld ering t h e m with


,
or d i nary so ft
so l d er T h e j o in t is a goo d on e and wil l stand or d i
.

n ary h ar d wear .

TO B r oach a H ole Verti cally I t is qu ite a seriou s


.

thing fo r yo u ng watch make rs to broac h a h o l e verti


cal l y ; a hol e i n a pl ate for in stance that i n a barr e l
, , ,
W ATC H MA K E R S AND J E W E LE RS
’ ’

are six o r se v e n m an u factu rers of gen u in e A m erican


l athe s an d i f an u n true la t h e by any pos sibil ity is
,

a l l owe d to e scape th e in spector an d fi n d s it s way


upon the market the A m erica n m an u factu rer is o n l y
,

too g l a d to e xch ange it for a per fect articl e for h i s


,

rep ut a t i on i s at stake ; b u t wh o are y ou g oing back


upo n in ca se o n e of the se im itation lathes prove
u n true an d thorough l y u n re l iabl e ? A bov e a l l th ings
pu rc hase a goo d l ath e I n ve stigate th e m erits an d
.

cl aim s o f the l ea d in g man u fac tu rers o f th e gen u in e


artic l e an d th e n u se yo u r be st ju d g m e n t i n t he sel ec
,

tion T h e bes t l athe t h at m oney can buy i s no n e too


.

good for th e watc hm ak e r T h e qua l ity of th e work


.

d on e an d the sat i s fac t i on w hic h the lath e gi ve s to i ts


o w n e r d epen d s greatly upo n th e care w h ic h h e
,

be stow s upon i t pro v i d ing that originally it wa s a


,

fi r s t cla ss art i c l e
-
.

T h e A m er i can l ath e o f to d ay i s a m a rv e l o f com


-

p le te n e s s in its parts an d h ow m any ho u rs y ea


, ,

month s o f study a n d e xperim e n t have bee n be s towe d


,

upon it b y its proj ec tors an d makers to acqu ire these


poin ts o f u ti li ty a n d e xce l l e ncy W hat a vast amo un t
.

o f care has bee n e xerc ise d for the pro d uctio n o f a

per fect lat h e M us t th is care cease o n the m omen t


.

t h e l athe passes i n to th e ha n d s o f the w a tch m ake r ?


I t is a ve ry easy m atter at any t ime t o wipe o ff th e
d u st and oi l that may acc um ul ate b ut doe s th is alon e
,
P RACT I CA L H A ND BOO K .
59

con s titute d ue care ? T h ere m ay be a n ice g l a ss case


to co ver it an d k e e p o ff th e d ust a n d a v ery goo d ,

i d ea it i s i f fait h fu l l y u se d ; bu t i f a cou n ter s ha ft i s


o n th e ben ch or m uc h lat h e work i s to be d on e it
, ,

soo n fa l l s in to bl is s fu l d e su et u d e o r fi n i s h e s its u se
,

fu l ne ss by be in g broke n T hen o ften a c l ot h is


.
, ,

wrappe d abo u t t he lat h e w h ic h soon g et s soi l e d an d


,

l ook s ba dl y l et a l o n e the poor protectio n it a ffor d s


, .

D u st is o m hi p r e s e n t an d th e grea te st e n e my to a l l
active m ac hin ery ; it i n s i d u ou s ly m ake s its way in to
e very crea se a nd cr e v ice an d i f no t pro m pt l y r e
,

m o v ed w i l l ca use u n to l d d am age W e ca n no t ge t
.

ri d o f it an d m u s t ( 1i ke th e in d ustrio u s hou sew i fe)


wage a con s tan t war fare again st i t .

T h e care n ece ssary to be gi ve n to a fi n e l a t h e


d i ffers fro m m o st oth er tool s ; i t is not c on fi n e d a l on e
to the re m ova l o f d u st a n d keepin g c lean b ut t h e ,

fi tti n g p rope rly o f th e se vera l parts a s u se d T here .

s h o u l d be n o o ve rstrain ing w h e n tigh ten in g scre w s ,

c h uck s e tc or w he n fi tti n g artic l e s in bot h wi re a n d


,
.
,

w h eel a n d so o n thr o ugh the l ist


,
.

T h e face o f t h e l athe be d w he n it co m e s from the


makers i s ( or sho ul d b e ) per fectly t ru e fro m en d to
,

e n d i n or d er that h ea d a n d tai l stock s w i l l m ee t o n a


,

d irec t l in e o f ce n te rs e ve n sho u ld they b e c hange d


,

en d for end an d a goo d l ath e w i l l m ee t tho se requ ire


,

m e n ts N ow it is obvio u s to any th in kin g m i n d


.
,
60 W ATC H MA K E RS AND '
jEWELE R S

t hat this face becom e s inj ure d by n egl ec t w h ereby


if ,

t h e n ick l ing i s rem ove d i n spots o r portion s th ey ,

w i ll i n al l p r ob a b i li ty b e c o m e r u sty ; th is ru st w il l
, ,

the n eat away an d th row o ff m ore a n d soo n the face ,

pre sen t s a n u n e v e n su r face w h ic h wi l l te n d to d e


,

stroy th e l i n e of cen ters betwe e n h ea d an d tai l stocks .

T h e h ea d stock u sua l l y occ u py ing o n e po s i tion


, ,

cau s e s l e ss wear a t th i s po i n t or p l ace wh i l e th e ,

han d re st an d tail stock ar e co n sta n t l y bein g sh i fte d ,

so w h ere t here i s more m otio n or ac tion th ere m u st


be m ore wear e special l y i f d ust c h ips o r grit be
, ,

al lowe d to acc u m u l ate be neath t h e m an d th ough th e ,

wear i s seem ing l y impercep tib l e i t n e verth el e s s i s


there an d wi l l soon er o r late r m an i fe st itsel f an d th is ,

is a sign al t h at th e l eve l o f th e be d is becom in g i m


paire d a n d n ece s sar il y the tru t h T h u s too m uc h
, ,
.

care an d atte n t i on ca n n o t be exercise d i n guar d ing


again st ch i p s an d d u s t w he n s l id in g han d re st forth
a n d back o n t he be d .

A t the e n d o f be d w h ere th e tai l stoc k take s p 0 si


,
~

tion m any watc hm a kers have the tail stock o ff an d


, ,

t h i s po rtion i s m ore expose d to atm osp he ric ac tion ,

a l so rece iv in g perspiratio n from t he han d s w he n they


co m e in con tact A gain ot h ers l et th e tail stock
.
,

re m ain i n p osition on l y re m ov in g w he n it co me s i n
,

t h e way I n the former case i t i s we l l to dev i se


.
,

som e m ean s for the protection o f bed ; this is e as ily


PRACT I CA L H A ND B OOK . 61

do n e by m ak ing a sh eat h o f ch a mois skin to sl ip


t i g h t l y o ver th e be d ; it can be re move d an d replace d
r ea d l
y ,
an d whe n i t beco mes soi l e d can be washe d .

T h i s sh eath s hou ld be fu l ly two th i rd s th e l ength


~

o f be d o r reach in g fro m tail e nd up to han d re st


,

w he n i t is c l o se to h ea d stock I t preserve s t he be d
.

from d am p n e s s w h ic h is con siderabl e i n som e clim


,

ates a l so th e perspiratio n o f th e hand an d fly i ng


,

chip s an d d u st I n the secon d case i f the tail stock


.
,

is a l lowed to re mai n o n lathe or i f re moved an d


, ,

placed o n th e be n c h i t is subj ec te d to al l the ev il s th e


,

be d i s in the form er O u r O pi n ion is the tail stock


.
,

sho ul d be kep t in its com partm en t i n a tigh t fi tti n g


draw e r away from d u s t a n d acci d en ta l k nock s o f
,

o th er tool s on th e be n c h ; th e tai l sp in dl e n ot be ing


n ick le d is more l iabl e to r u s t i f l e ft expose d an d
, ,

sho u l d be kept wrapped i n a sh eath o f o ile d paper .

T h is m ay see m s u p e r flu o u s and too m uch bother ,

y e t it i s takin g proper care w h ic h tel l s in the end .

T h e bot tom o f tail stock sho u l d alw ays be br us hed


o ff be fore p l acing i n position n ot only for its p r o te c
,

tion bu t for fear so m e particl e o f grit may be a d h e r


i n g thereby throwing it o u t o f tru th an d screwing it
, ,

d o w n tigh t o nly add s inj ury to the la the i f al lowed to


re main .

T h e hea d stock d em and s c l ose


,

atte n tion ; th e
spin d l e sho u l d r u n freely w ith ou t e n d s hake and ,
62 W ATCH M AK E R S ’
AN D J EW E LE RS ’

abo u t once a w e ek shou ld be speed e d m e a n wh i l e ,

a d m in i sterin g o i l un til it l eave s the bearings clean ,

a n d the n wipe d o ff A l i tt l e o i l sho u ld be a dd e d e ve ry


.

d ay S e e that th e m o u th of th e spin dl e is kept br igh t


.

an d c lean ; thru s t a str i p o f clot h clear through


spin d le e v ery n ow a n d t hen t ha t al l d u s t an d d ir t
,

m ay be re mo ve d .

W ire an d w hee l ch uck s sho ul d o fte n be wash e d i n


gasol ine to rem ove g u m my d irt an d o i l w h ic h i s co n
s ta n tl
y ad herin g
,
a n d it i s e v en wel l eac h tim e a
c h uck i s u sed to wa sh o fl fi rst the n wipe dry A

.
, ,

litt l e d irt o n m outh o f spin dl e o r o n c h uck o fte n


, ,

th rows it ou t of truth an d con se q uen tly th e artic l e


,

fasten e d therein al so .

W h en fi tti n g hea d or tail stock or i n fac t any ,

attachm e n t d o so care fu ll y D o n ot ban g it i n place


,
.

a s i f you he l d a gru d ge again st i t an d w he n in posi ,

tio n see th ey are ti gh tly 's c r e w e d in p lace .

H a v ing too m u c h en d shake o n l i v e spind l e ,

e spec i a l l y in so ft l at h e s causes u ne ve n wear in it s


,

bearin gs besi d e s not be ing rel iabl e fo r true pivoting


,

o r any suc h work .

W h en the cost o f a l ath e is take n in to con si d era


tion i t goe s to pro v e t h at it i s n ot easi l y rep l ace d
,
.

W here i s the j ewel er w ith a stock o f goo d s who


wo u l d retire wit h o u t fi r s t seeing h i s val u ab l es we re
in the sa fe , bu t how many a r e t h ere who thi nk of
PR ACT I CA L HAND BOO K . 63

g i v ing this p r ote s ti on to th e ir l athes ? S om e do bu t ,


t h e g reater per ce n t d o not
. . I t is a pio u s p l a n to

s e e that tne h ea d stock


_
tail s tock and attach me nts
, ,

are in th e sa fe a n d s houl d a fi r e break ou t that e m


,

dangers th e store a nd n o chan ce to sav e i t the fee l


, ,

ing of satis fact i on i s great to k now the l athe is sa fe ,

that is the m ore expe n siv e parts for the bed can be
, ,

p urc hased at a no m inal co st compare d to the attac h


m en t s.

A wo r d abou t ch u ck block s or stan d s T h e be st .

k ind are t hose m a d e to fi t in a drawer o f the bench


and the hol e s s u n k deep e no ugh to l e t t he ch uc k
( w ire ) d rop fu l l l ength or to the head the hol e ,
bein g
cou n ters u n k to a d m it the beve l portion T hey ca n .

ea si l y be picked o u t with the fi n ge r nail H a ve t he .

block t horough ly soak e d w ith oil .

T o pre ven t r u stin g o f too l s an d e specially i f th e


,

be d shows sign s of r u st spots here is a goo d o ld


,

rem e d y : proc ure som e bl ue oin tm en t sprea d it o n ,

a cl oth and ru b the too l s or l athe briskly the n wipe ,

off w ith a cl ean c loth ,


w ipe d ry T his oin tm en t
.

l eave s a t h in coatin g of m ercu ry wh ich pre ve nts th e


actio n of damp n e ss o n the too l s T h is c ure n eed not
.

be re sor ted to o ften er th an on ce a m onth and keep ,

o intm en t away fro m gold ca se s a n d watc h mov e


m en ts I f yo u fi n d you r l ath e bed has got i n s uch a
.

co nd itio n a s to destroy its tru th s e nd it a t o nce to the


,
64 W ATCH MAK E R S AND J EWE LE R S
’ ’

m a ke rs a nd ha v e it pu t in fi r s t cl a ss co ndi tion Do
- .

n o t tr ust i t fo r the sak e o f sa v ing a l itt l e to so m e


, ,

u nrespon sibl e fi r m for repa i rs .

A n ex ce l le n t l athe for the h eav ie r work of je w e le r s


a n d watch m akers s uc h as can not b e per form e d with
,


satis faction on the watc hmaker s lath e i s m an u fact ,

u r e d by th e W F J oh n
. B.arn e s C o R ock f ord I ll .
, ,
.
,

an d is know n as their N o 5 l ath e T hi s lath e w hich


. .
,

i s a v ery popul ar on e w ith watch m akers i s il l u strated ,

at Fig 2 5 For scre w c utting t he m an u fac ture o f


. .
,

watc h makers too l s fi s h i n g reel s tower cl ock s a n d



, , ,

in fac t any of the h eav ier work wh i c h the watch


,

m aker m ay w ish to p e r form t h is lathe is adm ir ably


,

fi tted
.
66 W A T C H M A K E RS AN D J EW E LE R S
’ ’

com pl e te E v ery watch m aker knows ho w hard it is


.

to ho l d a n artic l e to a d r i ll i n a lath e an d dril l a h o l e


,

per fec t l y s traigh t B y u sing a d ri l l r e st this m ay be


.

ea si l y accom p l ishe d by p l acing the rest in the spin d le


,

o f the tail stock an d p l acin g th e artic l e flat again st

the re st L oosen th e scre w on th e tail stock spi n d le


.

an d ge n t l y m ove t he articl e again st the d r i l l a n d th e ,

who l e w il l be per fec t l y upright an d al l d an ger of


b r eak in g d ri l l s w il l be avoi d ed Fig 2 6 shows a
. .

fr on t an d si d e v iew o f th e se v ery u se fu l l ittle at ta c h


m e n ts w hic h a l l wa tc hm akers s h ou ld have
, .

J ewel C hucks Jewe l ch ucks or j ewel cem e n t


. ,

c h u ck s a s they are som etim e s cal l e d w il l al so be


,

fo u nd very u se fu l a n d any watc h maker can m ake a


,

s upply o f th e m d urin g hi s l e isu re m om en ts T h ey .

sho u ld be m a d e of bras s an d threa d e d to screw i n to


th e t ape r scre w c h uck of l ath e an d s im ilar to Fig 2 7 .

i n s hape T e n o r twe l ve d i ffere nt size d face s wil l


.

m ake a good assortm e nt to sel ec t fro m T h ey wil l be .

fou n d v ery val uabl e for fi tti n g o dd s i ze d j ewel s


. .

O nce in a wh i l e y ou wi l l fi n d it i mpo ssible to se l ec t


fro m yo ur supp l y o f je w e ls o n e tha t w il l fi t th e pi vo t
properly a n d at th e sam e ti m e fi t in t he recess in th e
,

cock o r potance S el ec t a j ewe l that fi ts th e pivot


.
,

an d i f the brass setting is too l arge se l ect o n e o f


these j ew e l c h uck s t h at i s a tr i fle smal ler than
th e r e ce s s i n th e pot a nc e C e m e n t th e j ew e l to th e
.
PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K . 67

en d of th e j ewe l c h u ck bring to a de a d cente r o n th e


,

lath e b y m ea n s of a peg woo d in serting it i n the


,
-
,

h ole in the j ew e l an d as soo n a s t he cemen t is cool


,

ou can procee d to turn d own th e brass setting to fi t


y
the pota n ce C e m e n t th e j e we l w ith th e flat si d e
.

tow a rd th e ch uck so t hat in case th e s e tting is too


,

th ick it a l so c a n be tu rn e d
d own to the exact th ickn e ss
o f th e origina l j e wel s set

F i g 27
ting W ith a ful l s e t o f
°

the se j ewe l ch u ck s y o u w i l l be abl e to u t il ize m a ny


odd s an d en d s a nd fi t a j ewel per fectly in a short tim e ,

w h ile otherwise you m i g h t be com pe l le d to wait


se veral d a vs for th e receipt o f a j e w e l fro m som e
m aterial ho u se an d the n fi n d w h e n it com e s that i t
,

i s not j ust what yo u wan te d .

S cr ew H ead S i nk Gutter s T he se l ittl e tool s l i ke


.
,

th e ones j u st d escribe d can be mad e by any inge n


,

io us watc hm ake r and th ey w il l be fou n d we l l worth


,

the time an d labo r bestowed upon th em V ery o fte n .

a watch is bro ught in that ha s a broke n en d stone o r -

cap j ewe l T h e j e we l is set i n a brass setting an d i s


.

h el d i n p l ac e by two scre ws o n O pposite si d es t h e ,

screw hea d s bein g l et i n or su n k e ve n w ith the sur face ,

an d hal f o f th e scre w h ea d proj ects o ver on the en d


sto n e T h e e n d s tone s w h ich are purc hase d from th e
.

ma terial ho use s are n ot s u n k from the se screw head s ,


68 “

W ATCH MAK E R S AN D J EW E L E R S
’ ’

b ut are j u st as l e ft by the j ewe l l athe ; and whe n they


are fi tte d i nto po sition th ey fi ll u p o n e hal f of th e -

space l e ft for the sc rew head s N o w many watc h .

mak ers u se a gra v er o r sma l l rat tail e d file to c u t o u t.

these rece sse s for the screw h e a d s an d th e natu ral ,

con seque nce i s that th e j ob i s a bung l ing o n e w hen


fi ni sh ed A set o f scre w h ead sin k c utters l ik e that
.

sho wn in Fig 2 8 wil l d o th i s work o n th e vario u s


.

m o ve m e n ts an d d o i t a s wel l a s it is done in the fa c


,

tories W ith a se t of six to fi t t he variou s m ake s o f


.
,

A m erican watch es y o u w i l l be able to d o you r work


,

in a fi r s t clas s man n er S e l ect a p i ece o f S tubb s stee l


-
.

wir e of th e proper d i a meter for the sized c u tter y o u

requ ire an d abou t o n e in ch in leng th P lace it i n a


, .

w ire or spl it c h uck in you r l ath e an d tu rn on e en d ,

to a ce n te r N o w re verse th e wire in yo ur c hu ck
.
,

be ing very care fu l that it i s cen tere d an d sel ecting a ,

d ril l that wil l pass through th e sc r e w hol e i n th e


cock procee d to d ri ll a hol e in th e cen ter o f the wire
, ,

an d i n the fla t en d m aking it abo u t o n e sixteent h o f


,
-

a n in ch deep R em o v e fro m th e l ath e an d w ith a


.

sharp fi le or grav er procee d to c u t a serie s o f teet h


, ,

l ike thos e in the rose c u tter a s equal and a s e ven as


,

po ssibl e U s e a good s tron g gl ass for th is work


.
,
PRACT I CA L H AN D BOO K . 69

and be s ure you hav e e ver y tooth sharp an d per fect


'

a s u po n th is d epen d s th e quick an d nice w ork that


yo u e xpect fro m th e too l N o w procee d to temper
.

it and giv e the o u tsi d e a n ice po l ish S elect a n ice.

p i ec e o f pi vot w ire o f a size that w i l l n ear l y fi t into


,

th e hol e i n th e e n d o f th etoo l and po l ish it d ow n to


,

a size to fi t s n ugly in to th e hol e an d driv e it hom e .

C ut o ff th i s w ire al l owing abou t on e sixteen th o f an


,
-

in c h to proj ect i n th e form of a p i vot T aper an d .

po l is h this p ivot a nd yo u r tool i s ready for u se Y ou .

can n o w sel ect a n e n d sto n e o f a d iam eter to fi t


-

tig h t l y in to th e cock o r po tan ce a s m ay be requ ire d


, ,

an d fi r s t placin g th e hol e j ewe l in position proceed ,

to press th e en d sto ne tigh tly again s t the hol e j ewel


-
.

N ow p l ace a s i n k c u tter o f the proper size in a sp l it


c h uck in yo ur l ath e an d se l ect a m ediu m s i ze d d ril l -

rest ( see fi g
,
. an d p l ace i t in th e tai l stock spin
d l e H ol d the cock o r potan ce with the hol e an d
.
,

cap j ewe l in p l ace a s d escribe d again s t the d r il l


,

re st an d procee d to ru n the l ath e at a moderate


,

speed an d slo wly fee d th e cock or potance to t he


c utte r i n th e l ath e T h e proj ecting p ivot in th e en d
.

of th e c u tter w i l l pas s throu gh the screw hol e an d be

a gu i d e to keep th e cu tter i n th e cen ter o f th e hol e .

B e care ful an d d o not c u t th e rece s s too deep a s these ,

litt l e cu tters are dece iv ing a n d c u t m uch fas te r than


yo u th ink if y ou have n e v er u sed the m be fore I f
,
.
70 W ATCH MAK E R S AND J E W E L E R S
’ ’

th e proj ec ti n g p ivo t o n th e cu tter i s wel l pol ished i t


w i l l n ot inj ure th e threa d i n th e ho le in the l east .

H and Tongs T h e s l i d in g tongs gen era l ly u sed


.

by the tra d e for h o l d ing m in u te han d s whi l e fi li n g or


broac h ing t he hol e l arge e nough to fi t the can non
p in ion are poor awk war d too l s for th e p u rpose
, , .

Fig 2 9 i l l ustrate s a form o f han d tong s that wil l be


.

fou n d v er v co n v en ie n t for t h is p u rpo se an d w h ich


,

c an be m a d e i n a very
l i t t l e tim e A l most
.

eve ry watc h maker ha s


a n o ld s l i d ing p i n v ise ,

that is perhaps we l l
w orn o u t an d wh ic h
F i g 29 . .can be r e a d i lv c o n .

verte d i n to a u s e ful too l I f y o u ha v e no s uch too l


.

han d y you can buy a n e w o n e fo r twe n ty fi v e ce n ts


-

an d a l ter i t o v e r S l i d e the ferru l e toward s the e n d


.

t i g h t an d fi le or saw a s l ot in th e e n d abo u t on e
, ,

th irty secon d of a n i nc h wi d e an d up to the hol e


-
,

t h at i s u sua l l y dril l e d t h rou g h th e s l i d in g pin v ise .

W he n this is d on e p rocee d to saw or ou t thre e nar


,

row groo ves l ength w ise on th e i n si d e o f the j aw s o f


, ,

the v i se an d o f a w i d th an d d epth s u ffi c i e n t to
,

ho ld a m i n ute han d sec urely T h e g rooves sho u l d .

be sim ilar to th o se ma d e i n th e co m m o n sl i d in g
to n gs an d are u se d i n the sa m e m an ne r
,
M ake th e
.
PR ACT I CA L H A N D 3 00 K .
71

s lo ts of thre e d i fferen t w idth s to a cc om m od a te th e


,

d i ffe ren t w idth s of watc h h an d s T h e tool i s oper .

ated i n th e sam e man n er as the s l i d ing to ngs an d in ,

fact i s simp l y a m od i fi c a ti o n of that tool A t Fig 3 0 . .

a seco n d han d ho l der is s h ow n w it h a h an d in po s i


-
,

tio n rea d y to broac h I n orde r to broach ou t a new


.

h a nd w h ere the bos s o f the o ld h an d ha s been pre


,
.

serve d p l ace a sm a l l s l i p o f cork upon th e end of th e


,

broach an d in sert it i n the old han d a s fa r a s i t wil l

g o,
an d the n ew han d m ay t h e n be broac hed u n til
th e cork i s reached be fore try ing it for a fi t
,
.

M ai ns pr i ng W i nder s T h e S tark paten t wi n d er


.
,

s how n in F ig 3 1 i s a v ery super ior tool i s s impl e


.
, ,

and d urabl e and s hou ld l ast fo r a l i fetime T h e w in


,
.

de r is faste n ed i n th e v i se th e a dj u stabl e n ut i s the n


,

turn ed u n til the barrel wil l fit loosely ov er th e jaw s ,

th e barrel i s the n rem ov e d and th e sp ring woun d on


t he arbor in si d e th e j aw s N o w le t the han d le tu rn
.

backward u ntil th e arbor i s free from the ce n te r pu l l ,

t he arbor back an d t u rn it hal f rou n d place the bar ,

rel b ack again ov er th e j aws an d spring and ho ld i t ,

up tigh tly agai n s t th e face o f the w in d er w ith the


le ft hand a t the sam e tim e p u sh t h e arbor forward
,
72 W ATC H MAK E R S AN D J EW ELE RS
’ ’

w ith th e righ t han d u n til the barre l a nd spring are


free fro m th e j aws an d the spri n g w il l be fo u nd in
,

its prope r p lace w i t h o u t furt her operatio n T here .

a r e tw o s ize s o f w in d in g arbors on e for smal l an d


,

Fig 31. .

th e other fo r l arge barre l s T h e arbors are eas il y


.

c h ange d by turn ing the th u mb scre w up u nti l it i s


free t h e n changin g the arbors a n d scre wing the
,

th u m b scre w d o w n again .

A djus tment H eater .T h e S im pso n hea te r sho wn ,

i n Fi g 3 2 w i ll be foun d in va l uabl e wh e n a dj u sting


.
,

move m ent s to tem pera tu re T h e V ariation o f tem


.

p e r a t u r e in th is h eate r i s on e a n d o n e hal f d e gre e s


-

i n twe nty four ho urs I t is d esign e d to be heated by


.

ga s th e cost o f heating bei ng b u t abo ut three ce n ts


,

i n tw e n ty fou r ho urs A smal l lamp can be u s e d i f


-
.

th e watch maker h a s n o ga s a t co m m and .


74 W AT CH M A K E R S ’
A ND j E W E L E R s ’

J ewel Pi n S etter . Fi g
33 il
. l u strate s th e L ogan
paten t I t i s an e xcel l en t too l an d w i l l
.

save the workman co n si d erab l e ti m e


an d m uc h an n oyan ce by its u se E very .

w atc h ma k er i s aware wha t a d i fli c u lt


an d te d i ou s matter i t i s to set a j e we l
pin correc t l y W ith thi s too l th e job i s
.

accom pl ishe d qu ick ly and accu rate ly .

B ezel C huck T h e S nyder P ate n t


.

B ezel C h uc k show n i n Fig 3 4 wa s


,
.
,

origin al l y in ten d e d for hol d ing bezel s


o n l y b ut it i s n ow m a d e so that it wi l l
,

ho l d w atch pl ate s coin s etc an d i s , , ,

a dj u s tabl e to any size I t can be fi tted .

to a n y l athe and req uire s v ery l itt l e


pra ctice to u se i t as it is extre m e ly ,

sim pl e an d any o n e w ho u se s a lath e


,

can m ak e o r repa i r bezel s i n a work


m an l ike m an ner I t h o l d s th e work as
.

i n a v ise an d n o am o un t of tu rn in g o r
,

j arrin g w il l loose n th e jaws w h ile it ,

m av be O pen ed an d c l o sed in stan tly by



S i m ply turn in g th e m il l e d n u t be h ind
th e face pl ate th u s en abl ing the operator
,

to turn and fi t a beze l p e r fe c tlvby tr y


in g o n th e case a s m any tim e s as is
n e ces sary .
I t hold s th e beze l by e it h e r groov e so ,
PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K .
75

that t h e reces s m ay be turne d o u t w h e n too sha l


l o w o r too smal l for t h e g l ass or the beze l m ay be
,

inverte d an d turn ed a way w he n i t rests too hard o n


th e d ial I t w il l be fo u n d e specia l ly u se fu l i n turn ing
.

o u t t h e in e v itab l e l u m p o f so ld er fro m th e rece ss i n

th e bezel a fter sol d eri n g an d i n fi tti n g to case as the


, ,

proce s s o f so ld erin g g eneral ly makes


th e beze l s h orter a nd con seque n tl y it
,

w i l l n o t fi t o n the ca se I t 51 15 0 re n d ers
.

t h e operati o n o f pol ish in g beze l s a fter


so l der ing b u t a fe w m in ute s work
,
.

I n tu r n i n g o u t th e rece ss for g l as s i n
beze l s e specia l l y hea v y n icke l beze l s
, ,

it w i l l prov e a fr i e n d in d ee d w he n for,

in sta n ce y o u look th rough you r stoc k


,

o f fla t gla sse s an d fi n d n on e to fi t bu t ,

ha v e on e that i s j u st too large A ll watch make rs


.

k no w tha t i f th e groo v e i n th e beze l i s impe r fect it is


apt to break the g l ass T h e ch uck i s a l so u se fu l a s
.

a barre l c lo ser ho ld in g work w h i l e e ngra v ing a n d


, ,

m any o ther u se s that wi l l pre sen t the m se l ve s to the


watch o r case repa i rer .

C ement C huck . T h e S p i ckerm an paten t ce me n t


ch uck s how n i n F i g 3 5 i s a v ery han d y d e v i ce as i t
,
.
, ,

hol d s a n d ce n ters acc u rate l y any w hee l in a watc h


w h i l e d ri l l ing pol is hing or fi tti n g n e w s ta fi s o r
'

pin ion s a n d al l d ange r o f inj uring whee l s i s obv iated .


76 W ATC H MA KE R S AND ’
j
E W E LE R s

I t fi ts a l l kin d s o f A m erican or S w is s l athe s T h e .

h ol d e r sho wn i n Fig 3 6 at a i s tu rned dow n to nearly


.
,

th e s ize o f the scre w for th e l at h e a n d the scre w ou t


so the hol de r w i l l se t a s clo se a s po s s ib l e to th e lat h e .

T h e fac e of the ho lder i s the n tu rne d per fe ctly tr u e .

P u t whee l to be ce n tere d in cap c as n ear to ce nte r


,

as con ve n ien t an d screw o n b T h e n place ce me nt


.

face o f c huck 1 again s t face o f ho l d er


) o n the lathe
(1 ,

a n d w ith a l amp warm th e ce m e n t be twee n the s ur


,

face s hol d ing th e c h uck w ith a stick again st the


,

p ivo t o f w hee l i n th e cap an d i t wil l mo ve to a n


,

e xact ce n ter as soon a s warm ed s u ffi c i e n tly N e w .


PRACT I CA L HAND B OOK .
77

ce m e n t s hou l d be added occasion a l ly between th e


s ur faces as i t h ar d en s an d burn s away a n d d oe s not
,

center as w el l as w he n n e w Fig 3 5 show s c h uck . .

with w h ee l i n si d e rea d y fo r d rill in g .

Fi li ng B lock A co n trivanc e m a d e to take the


.

place o f the fi li n g re st w hic h was m a d e o f boxwoo d


,

o r bo ne . I t co n si sts o f a cy l in d er of h ar d e ned stee l


w h ich re v ol ve s u po n a sta ff wh ic h i n turn e n ter s a
sp l it socke t T h e s ur face of th e st e e l cy l i nder i s
.

Fig . 37 .

groo ve d w i th v ario u s size s o f groo ve s for the d i f


fe r e n t size s o f wire or to s uit any work as s h o w p i n
, ,

Fig 3 7 T h e c y l in d e r i s re vol ve d u n til th e d esire d


. .

size gro ove i s brought u ppermo st w he n th e sp l it ,

sock et i s placed betwee n t he Jaws o i a v i se an d th e


v ise c l osed th u s hol d ing the cy l in d er i n the d esired


,

po si tion Fig 3 7 ill ustrates M r I d e s pate n t bloc k


. . .

wh ich i s wel l mad e an d of superior m aterial .

R oundi ng Up Attachment T h e W ebs te r ro u nding


.

up too l a tta c h m e n t s ho w n in Fig 38 is a v e ry u s e fu l


,
.
,
78 W ATC H M AK E R S AN D J E W E LE R S

a dj u n ct to th e l at h e I t i s attached to the top of the


.

sl i d e rest T o operate a po in te d taper i n the taper


-
.
,

ch u ck i s p u t in th e l ath e spin dl e T h e w h ee l to be
.

ro un ded up i s pu t in to th e fi x tu r e an d the whee l


adj u ste d v e rtica l l y so tha t the poin t o f th e l ath e

cen ter w il l be at the cen ter of the thickn e s s of the


w he el a fter w h ic h th e lowe r S p indl e o f th e fi x tu r e
,

sho u l d not be m ov e d N o w re mov e th e w hee l al so


.
,

th e tape r c h uck an d p u t the saw arbor w it h th e


, ,

rou n d ing up cu tter in th e l ath e spind l e and a d j u st


, ,
PR ACT I CA L HAND BOO K .
79

the l ongit u dinal s l ide o f t he sl i d e re st so that the -

rou nd in g u p c u tte r wil l be back o f a n d i n l in e with


the ce n ter o f the ro u n d in g up fi xt u r e a fte r w h ic h ,

the l on g itu d inal s l ide o f t h e s l i d e rest s hou l d not be


-

m ov e d N ow p u t the wheel and supporting col l et


.

in p lace a n d p roceed with th e rou n d in g u p


,
.

Saw Ar bor T h e saw arbor or ch u ck as show n in


.
,

Fig 3 9 is m ade with a proj ectio n turn e d to rece ive


.
,

Fig . 39 .

a saw , diam o n d or e m ery l ap e tc T hey are m an u


, ,
.

fa c tu r e d b y th e variou s lathe m an u facturers tho ugh ,

th e pat tern s vary so m ew hat fro m th e i l l u stration


here s hown .

P i vot P oli s her T h e pivo t po l ishe r i s u se d for


.

grin d ing a nd poli shi ng con ical an d straigh t pivots


an d sho ulde rs I t i s al so u se fu l for d ri l l ing po l ish
.
,

i ng o r sn ailing steel w heel s m il l ing o u t odd place s


,

i n plate o r bri d ge w he re o n ly a par t o f a circl e is to


b e re m ove d etc ,
T h e c ircu lar base be ing grad uate d
.

to degree s it can be set a t any angl e T h e spin d l e


,
.

has a ta p e r hole for dri l l c h u ck s w h ic h m ake s the ,

fi x tu r e v ery u se ful for d ri ll in g e ithe r in th e ce n ter or


80 W ATCH MAK E R S AND J EW E LE RS

ecce ntric and by u sing the gradu a tion s o n th e pu lle y


,

o f th e hea d stock a n accurate l y spaced circle o f hol e s

m a y be d ri l le d Fig 4 0 i s th e R i ve tt pattern
. . .

T h e po l ish er i s u se d as fol lo w s : A fter th e pivo t is


turned to proper shap e p u t on yo ur po l ish er ( spindl e
,

paral lel with lathe bed ) w ith lap back o f pivot U se


, .

cast iro n l ap fi r s t ( S quare co rn ers for square sho u l


-
.

ders an d rou n d corner s fo r con ica l ) L ap for con ic a l


,
.

sho u l d er can be rea d ily co rn ered w ith a fi n e fi le and ,

cro s s g r i n d with fi n e o i l ston e to re mo v e any l in e s


-

ma d e by gra v er L ine s o n e nd can be remo ved


.

sa me way o r with s l ips rubbed o n piece o f ground


,

gl ass w h i c h has o n it a paste o f oi l ston e an d oi l wel l


m ixe d .

T h is w il l rapi d l y brin g the m up to a sharp corner


n icer th an by th e grav er On th e iro n lap s u s e N o
. .
82 W AT C H MAK E R S AND J EW E LE RS
’ ’

car e fu l ly again st the work u n til spread a l l th e way


arou n d the n proceed bearing i n m in d that grinding
, ,

is not po l i shing an d t h at to po l is h n icel y th e work


,

a n d lap m u st be v ery near l y t h e right shape T o .

t horo ug h ly c l ean th e l ap s d ip i n ben zin e


,
.

F ig 4 1 is the Jo han so n co m bine d p ivot pol isher


.
,

m i ll ing an d d amaskeen ing m ach ine For u se a s a .

p ivot pol isher it wi l l fi t a ny A merican l athe han d


,

rest o r ca n be u se d o n sl ide rest C u tters a nd pol ish


.

ing l aps are fur n ish e d w it h the m ac h ine .

S crew Tai ls tock T h is attach m en t s hown i n Fi g


, .

Fi g . 42
.

42, is v e ry con ven ie n t for h eavy d ril l ing th e s p i n d l


,

b e i ng mo v e d by a scre w w i th han d whe e l a t tach e d .


PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K .

Trav er s e S pi ndle Tails tock T hi s


attach m e n t
.

il l be fou n d v e ry co n ve n ie n t for stra i g h t d r il l i n g .

her e th e w atch maker ha s a great deal of d r il l ing


d o h e w il l fi n d th i s attach m e n t i n val uab l e .

Pi li ng Fi xtur e or Res t T he se rests wil l be fo u n d


.

v e ry co n ve n i en t in s quar in g win d i n g arbo rs cen ter , ,

squ are s etc T he re are sev era l make s o f the se t 0o l s


, .

bu t they are al l b ui l t u po n th e sam e


prin cip l e that o f two h ar d en e d s tee l
,

rol l ers o n w h ic h th e fi le re sts an d ,

Fig 4 3 i s a fair e x amp l e


.
On e .

pattern i s m a d e to fi t in the han d


re st a fter th e T is re move d wh i l e ,

the other i s attac he d to t he be d of


Fig 4 3
. .
th e l athe in th e sam e m an n er a s

the sl i d e rest T h e piece to be square d i s he ld i n th e


.

split or spring c h uck in th e l athe an d the in d ex on ,

the p u l l ey is u se d to d iv i d e th e square correctl y .

A n y artic l e can be fi le d to a per fect s qu are h exagon ,

or octagon as m ay be d esire d T h e arm carry i n g


,
.

the rol ler s can be raised o r lowered as req u i re d fo r


a dj u stme n t to w ork o f variou s size s .

S tep or Wheel C hucks T he se c h ucks are u sua ll y


.

ma d e in sets o f fi v e each c h u ck h aving n in e steps


, ,

giv ing forty fi v e d i ffere n t size s


-
T hese c h ucks are
.

ve ry u se fu l i n ho ld ing m ai n sprin g barre l s to fi t i n ,

the c a o f the ba rre l sho u l d it beco m e o u t of tr ue


p , .
84 W ATCH M AK E R S AN D J EW E LE RS
’ ’

T h ey are al so val u abl e in tru e ing u p barrel s of E n g


l is h l e v er watch e s that are d amage d owing to th e
,

bre akage o f a main sp r i ng T h ey are al so v e ry u s e fu l


.

in hol d ing al m ost a ny w h ee l in a watc h but pa r ti c u


,

la r ly co n ven ien t i n fi tti n g a ce n te r w h ee l to a pin io n ,

o r i n m ak ing su re that t he ho l e i n the w h ee l is in th e

cente r T he se c h uck s are m a d e by t he variou s lath e


.

man u factu rer s an d are al l si m i l ar to Fig 4 4 an d w i l l


.
,

ho l d whee l s fro m 5 to
.

S tai i or C yli nder H ei ght G auge . T h e obv iou s


a d v an tage o f th i s too l wh ic h is s h o w n a t Fi g 4 5 is
,
.
,

th e a utomatic tran s fer o f th e m ea su re m e n t so t hat i t


m ay be rea d i l y app l ied to th e work i n han d T h e .

tool a s th e i l l u stratio n show s con sists o f a bra ss t ube


, ,

ter min ating in a co n e sh ape d p iece T o th e bottom


-
.

o f t h is cone i s attac h e d a d i s c t h ro u g h w h ich a n ee dl e

l
p y a s . A ro un d th e uppe r e n d o f th e tu be is a col l ar
PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K . 85

upo n w h ich is fi x e d a c ur ved s tee l index fi n ge r A .

s i m i la r a w w h ic h i s free to mov e work s i n a slo t i n


j , ,

th e t ube T h e m ovab l e j aw is tappe d and i s pro


.

p e lle d by a scre w that term in ate s in t he n eedl e po in t .

his too l i s v ery u se fu l i n m aking the n eces sary


m ea s urem en ts requ ire d i n
p u ttin g i n a sta ff T o u se it
.

i n th is work set th e p ivot o f


,

th e ga uge through t he foo t


ho l e an d upon the en d ston e
,
-

proj ect t h e n ee d le s uc h a
d istan ce a s yo u w ish t he
sho u ld e r to be forme d abo v e
th e poin t of th e pivo t N e xt .

set th e gauge i n the foo t


ho l e a s be fore a nd e l e vate
,

the d i sc to a h eight that sha l l


be right for t h e rol ler w h ic h ,

i s do n e by h av ing t he le ver
i n pl ace th e l i ttl e d isc s ho w
,

ing exactly w h ere the ro l l er


I
d Te s ho uld co m e
.
h F in ish th e sta ff up to that poin t then
.
,

astub
c e take th e n ex t m eas u re m en t fro m th e e n d ston e to -

bottom w h ere th e shou l der s hou l d b e fo r th e balan ce to re s t


,

needle upon T his poin t bein g m arked th e sta ff can b e


.
,

rev e r sed a nd m eas urem e n t co m m e n ce d from th e


u pper e n d sto n e by w hic h to fi n i s h th e upp e r e n d of
-
,
86 W AT C H MA K E RS AND J EW E LE RS
’ ’

t he sta ff D istances bet w e e n th e sho ul d ers


.

pin ion s an d arbors ca n be obtained with the sa


facil ity a l ittl e practice be in g requ isite
, .

S taff G auge T h e t oo l show n i n Fig 4 6 th e in v


. .
,

tion o f M r E B eeton is designed for m ea s ur ing t


. .
,

h eigh t o f th e balan ce sta ff fro m the ba l ance s e a t t


th e e n d o f th e top pivot T h e il l ustr a tion is e n l arge
.

to g ive more d i stinctne s s .

E E is a piece of c u rve d stee l abou t 210 of an inc


thick an d {3 o f an inc h wi d e Oh t he lo w er s i
, .

fr o E to th e en d th e arm i s fi le d dow n i n w idth an d


th ickne s s to co rrespon d to an ordinary balance arm ;


C i s a slot i n th e upper arm E w hich al low s A B , , ,

D A to be mo ved backwar d an d forwar d D D is




.
,

a ro u n d bras s post d ri l l e d and tappe d ; th e part D ’

has a threa d c u t o n i t a n d the part shown i n the s


,

C fi ts w ith easy fric tio n B is a lockn u t dril led a


.
,

tappe d to fi t th e t h rea d o n D ’
I t is for the p u r p os
.

o f clam pin g D

again st th e arm E A A is .

s mal l stee l sc re w with m il l ed head an d i s ma d e to ,

fi t th e tappe d ho l e i n D D

.

M r B eeto n d e scribe s his metho d o f u sing th is too l


.

a s fol l ow s T ake you r m ea s ure m en t o f t h e d is tance ,

the ba la n ce s ea t i s to be fr om fi l ? e n d of flee top pi v


e ot as _ ,

fo l l ow s : remo ve th e e nd sto n e in bal a nce cock a n d ,

scre w th e cock o n t h e top p l ate ( 1 8 siz e ful l p l ate


,
-

m ovem e n t) then tak ing the p l ate i n yo u r le ft han d ,


P RACT I CA L H A ND 3 00K
. 87

an d too l i n y o ur r i g h t p l ace
,
H
i n po si tion so that ,

t h e e n d o f th e scre w A re sts o n the j e we l i n th e


balan ce cock a n d no tice t he positio n of th e arm E


,

w h ic h corre spon d s to th e ba l an ce arm betwee n the ,

top p l ate a nd u nd er s id e of ba l anc e cock I f th e .

d i stan ce be twee n th e arm E an d e n d of scr e w A i s


’ ’

too great th e arm E w i l l be too lo w a n d to uc h th e


,

plate ; if n o t e nou g h it w il l be too h igh an d to uc h


,

the regu lator pin s T h e re fo re al l that i s n ece s sary


.
,

to d o is to m ove th e scre w A A u p o r do w n as th e ’

case m ay b e s u fii c i e n tly to e n s u re that the ar m E


,

w il l a ss u m e th e po sitio n th e a r m of M e ba la n ce i s to
have T ake a n 1 8 size ba l an ce w ith overspru ng
.
'
-

hairsprin g ; the arm is a t t h e botto m o f the ri m i n ,

that ca se W h en m easu ring t he sc re w A is adj u st e d ’


.
,
88 W ATC H M A KE R S AND J EW E LE RS
’ ’

as to bring th e arm E close to the plate when A 1s



,

re sting o n the ba l ance j ewel i f the b al a nc e i s old,

s ty l e wit h u n d e r sp r u n g hairspring the balan c e arm ,

i s a t top o f rim in w h ich case A is a d j usted so that


,

t he arm E is c l o se to th e bal ance cock ; i i the balance


arm is i n th e ce n ter o f th e ri m as i n som e E ngl i s h ,

a n d S wiss bal an ce s the screw A i s a dj u sted so tha t


,

the arm E i s m i d way be t w ee n the p l ate and cock



.

T h e reason th e part A B D A is arrange d , , ,


m o v e l ateral ly in s l ot C i s beca u se al l balance s ho


ders are no t th e sam e d is tan ce fro m th e ce nter an d ,

w here in som e case s the scre w A w o u ld be in a l i n e
, ,

w ith t he cen ter of th e s ta ff w h e n th e ar m E was ’

restin g o n the ba l ance seat i n other case s i t wo ul d


,

reach past th e ce nter o f co ur s e short o f i t ; and


, , ,

there fore it is ma d e ad j u stabl e to s uit al l cases


,
.

D ouzi eme A m eas u ring tool hav ing t wo l im bs


.

h inge d together s im i l ar to a pair of scissors On e .

o f t h e l imbs term in ate s in a po in ter that in d icate s

upon a scal e th e e xte n t to w h ich the jaw s are


O p e n e d T h e tru e D o uzie m e gauge ha s a sc al e
.

d iv ide d i n to twe l fth s though som e pattern s are now


,

m a d e t h at hav e a scal e d i v i d ed i n to ten th s an d hu n


d re d s of an i nc h and a g ain th ere are others that
,

m easure th e fraction s o f a m i l l imete r T h is tool i s .

u se ful for tak ing m ea su rem en ts of a l l ki n d s For .

exam pl e w e w i l l suppose t hat the wa tch mak e r i s


,
W ATCH MAK E R S AND J EWE LE RS
'
’ ’
90

p u t tin g i n a new balan ce w il l take it for


sta ff ; w e '

granted that the uppe r part o f th e sta ff i s e n tirely


fi n i s h e d an d th at h e is ready to fi n d the total le ngth
that th e sta ff sh ou ld b e H e takes the top p la te with
'

th e balan ce cock an d po tan ce a tta c h e d a n d m easu res ,

the d istance fro m the top o f cock hol e j ewe l to top


o f potan c e ho l e j ewe l by m ean s o f th is gauge H e .

place s the j aw a o n po tance j ewel a n d b o n cock


j e we l a nd n ote s th e n u mber o n the sca l e that the
,

poin ter is O ppo site w h ic h i s ge n era ll y 30 for a n 1 8


,

size fu l l p late A m e 1 1c a n m ov e me n t .

D r ills and D r illi ng D ri l l ing m ay be e ffec te


. d in
tw o way s by rotating the dri l l an d hol d ing the work
,

stationary or v
,
i ce v e r sa T h e m ost satis factory
.

r e s ul ts , howe ver are obtain e d by re v ol v ing the work


,

F i g 48
. . Fig . 49 .
Rig . 50
. F i g 51
. .

and gra d ua l l y bringin g the dril l in to co n tact with i t .

A l though i t is n ot al way s pos sibl e to do this owing ,

to th e shape of t h e articl e to be d ri l le d A dril l o f .

the shape shown i n Fig 4 8 i s pr e fe ra b l e for dril l ing


.
PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K .
91

h arde n ed steel w h i l e the shape sho w n in Fi g 4 9 is


, .

b e s t s u ited for dril l i ng so ft stee l brass etc Oi l or


, ,
.

gly cerine d i l ute d w ith a l coho l i s the be st l ubrican t


,

for the so fte r m etal s b ut w he n dri l l ing hard stee l


,

t urpe n tin e shou l d be u se d D ril l s of th e form show n


.

i n Fig 50 are u sed fo r d ri ll ing fi a t botto m ed hole s


.

for co un ter sin k i ng sc re w hea d s etc T h e twist d ri l l


, .

show n i n Fig 5 1 is d esirab l e wh e n dril l


.

in g d eeply as th is for m o f d ri l l heats


,

s lowly an d t he particle s are carrie d to


th e s ur face of th e work P ivot d ri l l s .
,

l ike tho se show n in Fig 52 ca n be p u r .


,

c hase d fro m m aterial dea l ers m o u n ted ,

Fig 52
. .
o n card s ,
an d ready fo r u se at s u c h

sm a l l co st tha t it wil l scarcely pay the watc hmakers


to m ak e the m .

D ril l s o f a form i n d icate d b y Fig 53 are r e c o m .


,

m en ded h ighly b y S a u nier an d are k nown a s se m i


,

cy l ind rical dril l s . T hey are made


fro m cy l in drical stee l rod s ro u n d e d ,

at the ir e nd s a nd fi le d d own to a
t r i fle le s s tha n hal f the ir thick ness .

T h e l ength o f th e po in t sho u l d be
'

grea ter or le s s according to th e


natur e o f t he m etal to be O perated F ig 53 . .

u pon but u nder no circu m stan ce s


,
m u s t the poin t
itse l f be sharp T h i s form of dril l sho u l d b e sharpen e d
.
92 W ATC H MAK E R S ’
AN D J E WE L E RS ’

on th e ro u n d side an d no t on t he fla t s ur face It .

posse sse s say s S au n ier the a d van tage that w h e n


, ,

p l aced in a dril l ch u ck it can be t u rn e d exac tly rou n d


-

o f the requ ired d iam eter a n d fi n i s h e d ; so that w he n

e ver replaced in th e ch uck on e ca n be certain be fore


,

han d tha t the hol e dril l ed w i l l be o f a d e fi n i te


d i a m e te r
. W ith s uc h a d ril l t he hol e i s s m oothed
im m e d ia tely a ft e r i t i s ma d e by on e or th e o th e r
c u ttin g edg e s .
PA R T V I .

P RAC TI C AL RE CEI P TS .

G old S pri ngs . To i mpar t the req u isite degre e of


e l asticity to gold d ete n t a n d bal ance s prings th ey ,

s hou l d be e n cl osed i n s u itabl e sized stee l t ube s ha v ,


.

i ng c lose fi tti n g covers an d th e tube s h eate d o ver an


,

a l c ohol lam p u n til th e ste e l i s o f a bl ue te mpe r .

R e mo v e at th i s poin t fro m the fla m e a n d al l ow th e


w h ol e to cool s l owly I n th e case o f balance sprin gs
.
,

they shou ld be fi r s t co i le d upo n a bloc k be for e in sert


ing in the t ube .

To S oi ten a S pri ng A spring m ay 1be l aid fla t an d


.

it s te mper d rawn betwee n two pl ate s fa s te n ed


toge t h er by a scre w thro ugh t h e ce n ter a n d pl aced ,

upo n th e an n ea l in g pl ate A s ma l l piece o f wh ite n e d


.

stee l i s l ai d upon i t to e n ab l e th e operator to j udge


,

o f the d egree o f h eat B e fore O pe n in g l et it cool


.
,
.

W h e n d rawing th e tempe r l ay th e coil s farthe r apart .

Relati on oi M ai n S pr i ng to B ar r el I f we w i s h to
.

h av e a m ain spr i ng t heoretical l y a dj u sted there is no ,

be tter m etho d tha n s imp l y to al l o w o n e th ird e mpty


space o n e th ird for the barre l arbo r an d the re m ai n
,
- .

d er for th e spring W he n a S pring i s a t re s t o n th e


.

barrel at e ith er s i d e o f t he arbor it shou l d occupy


,

one sixt h o f th e barre l s i n si d e d iame ter I f w e d iv i d e


-
.
94 W ATCH MAK E R S ’
A ND J E W E LE RS ’

a barr e l i nto sixty equa l par ts w e s h al l always s ee


,

th e barre l arbor i s j u st twe n ty o f the se parts I t is a .

great m i stake to have a barrel arbor too smal l for ,

whe n s uc h i s the ca se it i s a l most su re to break the


m ain spring i f th e ce n ter is at al l stubborn as is v ery ,

o ften the case w ith th e cheap cl as s of main sprin gs in


t h e m ark e t .

To P r ev ent Rus ty H ai r s pr i ngs B ru sh th e out si d e


.

o f th e paper parce l ,
con tain in g th e Springs w ith ,

ol iv e oi l a s m a l l quan tit y on l y
,

To R emov e S tai ns fr om W atch D i als T 0 re mo v e


.

bl ack or clo u d y stain s fro m porcelain watc h d ial s ,

w hich are ge n eral ly cau sed by t he ti n boxe s they


are sh ipped i n we t a piece o f tissu e paper i n n itric
,

aci d an d w ipe th e d ia l T h is w i l l in stan tl y re mo v e


.

t h e m A fte r app l y in g the aci d the d ial sho u ld be


.

im m e d iately washe d thorough l y i n water an d the n


be drie d in boxwoo d sa w d u st .

To R emove Name i t om D i al T ak e a l ittle d iamond


.

powder m a d e i nto a paste with fi ne oil o n th e upper ,

e n d o f a copper pol i sher th e su r face of w hic h has


,

bee n fre sh ly fi le d and sl ightly ro u n d e d Oh rubbing.

th e mark s th ey w i l l be see n to rap i dly d isappear .

T h e su r face is left a l itt l e d u l l ; i t m a y be re ndered


brigh t by ru bbi ng w it h th e sam e pow d er m ixed w ith
a greater quan tity o f o i l and a pp l ie d with a stick o f
,

pegwood Operators wil l do we l l to pre v iou sly


.
PRACT I CA L H A ND BOO K .
95

e it p e r i m e n t s e v eral d egree s of fi n e n e s s of the


w ith
pow d er o n ol d d ial s .

To D r i ll E namel D i als Y o u m a y h ave to dril l or


.

broac h hol e s i n e na m el d ia l s For th i s p urpo s e u se


.

a fla t e nded d ril l or co n ical broac h of copper in to ,

w h ich d iam on d po w de r h as bee n ham m ered A .

grav er kept mo iste n e d w ith t u rpe n tin e i s so m e tim e s


u sed T h e e d ge s of t h e hol e s i n d ial s m ay be
.

t rim m ed with co ru n d u m s tick s to be o btain ed at


,

m aterial shop s .

TO W hi ten S ilver W atch D i als Fl atte n a p iece o f


.

ch arcoal by r ubbing i t o n a fla t ston e ; o n th is p l ace


th e d ial face u p w ard ; apply a ge n tl e h ea t care fu l l y
,

w i th a blowpipe al low in g th e fla m e to play al l over


,

th e sur fac e o f th e dial w i thou t to u ch in g i t so as to ,

thorough ly h eat witho u t warpin g the d ial T hen .

p ick l e a n d rin s e using acid e n ough to mak e t h e


,

wa ter very tart im m ers in g b u t fo r a fe w s e con d s


,
.

S il ver watc h d ial s m ay al so be a n n eal ed by heatin g


th e m red hot on a flat p iece o f copper o v er a clear
fire
Fi tti ng the H ands . I f th e body of
th e canon pinio n
w il l n ot bear tu rn ing i n fi tti n g it to th e hour w h e e l ,

th e hou r W hee l s ho u l d be ope n e d in th e m andre l a s ,

it can no t b e kep t tru e by ope n in g th e hol e i n the


fi n ge r s .Fi ttin g t h e h an d s to a watc h deser ve s m ore
car e a n d a tte n tio n tha n a r e ge neral ly give n to i t ,
9 6 WATC H M AK E RS AND J EWE L E RS
' ’

T he way hand s are com mo nly fi tte d to wa tche s i s


ba d in pri ncip l e T h e pipe o f t he h our w h eel i s le ft
.

too lon g a n d that of th e m in u te han d to o shor t and


, ,

wh e n th e e nd s hake o f th e ho ur han d is adj usted as ,

it u su a l l y is lay th e bo ss o n th e ho u r whee l an d the


,

d ial an d th e e n d s hake of the cen ter w h eel a ffec ts i t


, ,

som e tim e s gi v ing i t too m uc h an d ben d in g the ho u r


han d by its catch ing the m in ute ha n d either in s et
ting th e han d s or i n the go in g o f th e watc h I n fit .

tin g t he hand s th e exam iner shou ld fi t th e g lass i 1


, ,

to a h un ting case a s high as th e case wil l adm it


, ,

a scertai n t he space av ai l ab l e by p l acin g a piece 0 1


bee swa x o n the d ial a n d p re ssin g th e gl ass d o w n o n
i t a n d tu rn the cano n p in io n u n til it proj ec ts fro m
.

th e d ial the height o f th e beeswax ; th e hour wh ee l


pipe s hou ld rise j u st perceptibly above th e d ial an d ,

the en d s h ak e of th e ho ur h an d be a dj u sted by th e
th e p ipe of t h e m in u te h an d and that o f the hou r
wheel .

R educi ng D i amet er oi a W atch Glas s T h e d iam e


-
.

ter o f a watch g l as s ca n be re d uced by ce n tering i n


a lath e c h uck ing i t be twe e n tw o piece s o f cork or a
, ,

pair o f cork arbor s an d apply ing a m oiste ne d piece


,

o f glas s to t he edge o r a n em e ry s tick,


W hen the.

de sire d d iame ter i s attain e d pol ish th e ed g e w ith


,

p u m ice s ton e fo l l owe d by p utty pow d er appl ie d o n


,

a w e t cor k .
9 8 W ATCH MAK E R S AND J EW E LE R S
’ ’

To Remove B r oken S cr ews o n e havi n g an


. A ny

A m erican l athe can w ith sm al l expe n se o f tim e and


,

l abor m ake a sma l l attac h m e n t w h ic h w il l easily


,

and qu ick ly re mo v e a broke n scre w fro m th e pl a te o r


pil l ar o f any watc h .

T ake two co m mo n steel watch k ey s hav i ng har


d e n e d and tempe re d pipe s s ize fo u r o r fi v
,
e hav ing
, ,

care that th e square s i n eac h are o f th e sam e size


a n d o f goo d depth C u t off th e p ipes abou t h al f an
.

inch fro m th e e nd ; fi le u p o ne o f the s e fo r about ha l f


its l ength o n thre e equa l si d e s to fi t on e o f th e l arge
, ,

spl it c h uck s o f th e l at h e D ril l a hol e i n one o f t h e


.

bras s ce nters o f t he l ath e of s u ffic i e n t size an d depth ,

in to w h ich i n sert the other key pip e an d fa ste n -


,

w ith a l ittl e so ft sol d er S o fte n a piece o f S tu bs


.

w ire to work easily i n th e l ath e and tu rn dow n a n


, ,
1

e igh th o f a n i nc h fro m th e e nd to a size a l itt l e


s m al l er t ha n th e broke n screw in t h e pla te ; fi n i s h
w ith a co nical s ho u l d e r for greater strength an d
, ,

cros s fi le th e e n d with a h u e sl ot or k n i fe e d g e fi le
- -
,

that th e tool m ay n o t s lip o n th e e n d o f th e broke n


screw ; c u t off th e wire a hal f in c h fro m the e nd a nd ,

file d ow n to a square that wi l l fi t c l ose l y i nto o n e o f


the key pipe s m ak e a seco nd poi n t l ike th e fi r s t
-

o n e an d fi t to th e o the r k ey pipe hard e n i n o i l


-
, ,

pol ish a n d te mper to a dark straw co l or Fi t th e


,
.

b ras s ce n ter i n to th e tail s toc k T o u se p ut the tool s


.
,
PRACT I CA L H AN D B O O K .
99

in place i n th e lath e pl ace t h e brok e n e n d of th e


,

scre w again s t t h e e n d of th e po in t i n th e l athe head ;


sl i d e u p th e bac k ce nte r an d fa ste n th e poi n t fi r m ly
agains t t he o ther e n d o f th e scre w that it m ay n ot
,

sl ip or tur n ; re vo l ve t he pl ate s l ow l y and the broke n


,

screw being he ld fas t be twee n t he tw o points w il l


, ,

be qu ickly re mov e d T o re m ov e a broke n p il lar


.

screw : P l ac e th e broke n scre w again s t th e poin t i n


the lathe h ea d h old i n g th e p l ate fi r m ly w ith th e
-
,

right han d t h e pi l l ar o n a li ne w ith th e lath e cent e r ;


,

t u rn th e lath e hea d slow l y backwar d with the le ft


-

hand an d t h e scre w w i l l be re m o v e d S ho ul d th e
,
.

tool s l ip o n th e broke n scre w an d fail to dra wit o u t


, ,

d ril l a ho l e in th e pi l l ar fro m the lower or d ial si d e ,

do w n to th e sc re w poin t ( i f the s ize o f the pi l lar i n


the p l ate w il l a d mi t o f so doing ) an d w ith t he secon d
,

poi nt in th e bac k ce nter re m ov e th e screw in th e


,

sam e m an n er as th e pl ate scre w i n th e fi r s t proc es s .

Five o r six size s o f the se po in ts wil l b e fou n d s u ffi


c ie n t for a m aj or ity o f th e s e br e akag e s tha t m ay


occu r .

T!) P oli s h P i v ots . T u rn the pivot s dow n abou t to


size grin d with oilsto n e d u st a nd o i l u n ti l th e mark s of
, ,

t he grave r are re m o ve d an d a s mooth gray or dead .

w h ite s ur face is obtai ne d ; the n po l is h wit h d iama n


tin e T h e gri n d ing a nd po l ish ing are be st don e w i th
.

s l ips o i be l l m e t a l file d to shap e T h e pol ish ing s ho uld


.
W ATC H MAK E R S AND J EW E LE RS ’
.

1 oo

n ot be con tin u ed too lon g or th e sur fac e w il l be c o m e


,

b ro w n an d of in ferior appearan ce I f th e brow n .

show s itse l f the su r face s h oul d a gain be s to ned off


,

an d the po l ish ing repeate d .

The Si ze 01 the C yli nder Pi vot T h e sid e s hak e i n .

cyl in d er pivot hol es s h o n ld be greater than that for


or d inary train hole s ; o n e sixth is abou t th e r ight
-

amo u nt T h e s ize o f pivo t relativ e to the cy l i nder


.

s ho ul d be abou t one eighth the d ia m eter o f the bo d y


-

o f th e cy l inder I t is very n eces sary that thi s amo u n t


.

o f side shake sho u l d be correct l y recogn ized ; if les s


-

than th e a moun t sta te d the watch thou g h per for m


, ,

ing wel l w he n the oi l is fre sh fail s to do so whe n i t,

com m ence s to thicke n T h e o n ly accurate way of


.

getting at the correct am ou n t o f s hake is to fi t a p ivot


or two to a j e wel hol e by m ean s of a m icrom e ter ;

th e ey e wi ll soo n b e co me capable o f correctly a s c e r


tain ing the amou n t nece s sary I f any do ubt e xi s ts
.
,

a ro un d broach can be u sed to s iz e th e pivot hol e ,

a n d the m i c o m e te r wil l t he n decid e the q ue stio n .

S hape of P i v ots P ivot s m u s t b e hard rou nd a n d


.
,

w el l p ol i s hed ; the ir sho u l der s are to be fla t not ,

too large with e nd s ro u n d ed sl igh t l y o ff so that they


,

do n o t wear t he cap j e w e l T h e j ewel hole s m u s t


.

b e rou n d smooth and not larger than is re q uisite


,

for th e free mo tio n o f th e pivot wh ich is s u rro u nded


w i th oil T h e ir s id e s m u s t b e par a l l e l to thos e of
.
10 2 W A T C H MA K E R S ’
AN D J E W E L E RS

friction wou ld be increased and a t th e same tim e al te r


th e tru e poin t of engage me n t I n te nor with the d i s
.

tance of the w hee l s fro m the m ot i v e power th e ,

t hick nesse s of their p i vots m u st d ecrease becau se


th e se l atter su stai n l e ss pres su re an d a r e s u bj ec t
,

to a greater v eloc ity than th e fi r s t parts


. .

To Fi t a B us hi ng A fter repairing t he pivot a


.
,

b u s h i s se lec te d as smal l a s th e p ivot w il l a d mit .

Open t h e ho l e o f the plate o r cock so th at th e b ush ,

( w h ich prev io usly s hou l d be l i gh tly d raw fi le d at th e -

e n d ) w il l stan d w ith a s l igh t pres s ure uprigh t i n the


,

open ed ho l e of the pl ate o r coc k ; th e n w ith a kn i fe


, ,

c u t i t acros s at th e par t wh ere it is to be broke n o ff


so that it may break v ery read ily wh en requ ired to
d o s o P re ss it in the pl ate o n th e s i d e the p ivot
.

works brea k o ff an d t h en d rive it ho me w i th a s mal l


, ,

cente r pu n ch I n e v ery repair of th is natu re n otice


.
,

s ho ul d be take n of the a mo u n t o f e n d shake o f the


p in ion an d a l lowan ce m a d e by l eav ing th e b u s h so
,

that any e x ce s s m ay be correc ted T o fi n i s h off the


.

s hou ld er e n d a sm a l l c h a m p fe r i n g too l shou l d be u sed


,
.

I t ha s a ho l e s m al l er than the pivo t o n e to rece ive a


fi n e brass w ire serv ing as a ce n ter to pre ve n t th e
,

too l from changing it s pos i tio n w h i l e bei n g u se d ; o r


th e wire m ay b e p ut t h ro ugh the bu sh ho l e s and th e ,

h ol e o f the too l m ay be l e ft ope n T h e above i s a fa r


.

more e xp e d itiou s way tha n u sing the l ath e .


P R ACT I CA L HAN D B OO K . 10 3

To Measure Length of S taff . T he


prop e r w ay to
m eas ure for th e l e ng th o f sta ff is fi r s t to tak e o ff
, ,

both e nd stones fi t th e balance c ock properly to th e


,

pla te ( le vel
, a n d screw it fa s t in its pl ace T he n .
,

with th e degree gauge take th e m eas u re from the ou t


,
.

sid e of o n e hol e j e w e l to th e o u tsid e of the other on e


a nd to th is add the amo u n t of e nd sha ke the s ta ff i s
to h av e w h ic h gi ve s th e e xact l en gth of the s ta ff be
,

twee n th e e xtr e m e e nd s of th e pivo ts T he le ng th .

s hou ld be s uc h that w h e n o n e p ivo t r e sts agai n st i ts


e n d ston e th e top pi vo t s hal l com e le ve l wi th th e

o u ter su r fac e of i ts ho l e j ewe l and th e same w he n


,

resting o n th e othe r p ivot T h e e n d sha ke s hou ld


.

b e e q ual to th e d istan c e from th e o uter s ur fac e of th e


ho l e j ewe l to the adj acen t su r face of its e nd s to n e
w h e n fa s te n ed i n pl a c e. I f th i s di stan ce is n e ither
too grea t or s mal l ( th e j e we l s m u st n ot touch ) th e ,

e n d shak e w il l b e correct . A s a fe way for l engt h i s


to take th e o uts id e m easu r e fro m th e s ur face of th e
s i nk in w h ic h th e bo tto m e nd s ton e fi tti n g re sts to ,

th e top s ur face o f th e b al anc e cock T h en having


.
,

s cr e wed o n o n e of th e e nd sto ne s shorte n up e i ther


,

-
or b oth piv ot s of th e fi n i s h e d sta ff a tr i fle to bring ,

th e top e n d o f th e ot he r p ivot le v el with th e s ur fac e


of i ts hol e j e we l a s b e for e e xp la i n ed .

P i ni on D i ameter T h e fo l lo w ing a r e e x c e l le n t
.

r u l e s for de ter m in i n g th e correc t d iam e ter of a


10 4 W ATCH MAK E R S ’
A ND JE W E L E RS ’

pin io n by m ea surin g tee th of th e wh ee l tha t siz e s i nto


it. T h e term f u ll u se d below indicate s fu l l m easure
, ,

fro m o utsid e to o u tside o f the teeth n amed a nd the ,

term ce nter the m easure fro m t he ce nter o f on e too th


to the center of the other tooth n am e d in cl u sive ,
.

Fo r d iameter o f a p inio n o f 1 5 l eave s m easu re w it h ,

cal ipers a s ha d e l es s than 6 tee th o f the w he e l ce n


,

ter For d iam ete r o f a pin io n o f 1 2 l eave s m easu re


.

w ith ca l ipers 5 teeth o f the w hee l ce n ter For diam


, , .

e ter o f a pin io n o f 1 0 leave s meas ure w ith cal iper s ,

4 tee th of the wheel fu ll For d iameter of a p in io n


,
.

o f o leave s measure with cal iper s a l ittle le ss than 4


, ,

teeth o f th e w heel f ul l For d iameter of a pin ion


,
.

o f 8 leaves meas ure with ca l ipers a l itt l e l es s tha n


, ,

4 teeth o f the w he e l cen ter Fo r d iam eter o f a


,
.

pin io n of 7 l eave s m eas ure with ca l ipers a l ittle less , ,

than 3 teeth o f the wheel fu l‘ Fo r d iam eter o f a ,

pin io n o f 6 lea v e s m easu re with cal iper s 3 teeth o f , ,

th e wheel ce nte r For d iam e te r of a pinion o f 5


,
.

l eaves m easu re w i th cal ipers 3 teeth of the w hee l


, , ,

ce n ter A s a ge n era l r ule p inions that lead , as i n


.
,

th e hou r whee l s hou l d be some wh a t larger than


,

tho se that drive and pinions of clock s shou l d gen


,

c ral l y be so m e w hat larger propor tion al ly than


those o f wa tc he s .

To Anneal a Statt or Pi ni on I t som e ti me s b e com e s .

n e cessary to a n n eal a sta ff or pin ion in wh ich y ou ,


10 6 W AT CH M A KE R S ’
A ND I E WE LE R S

other sol v e n t of o xide o f iron b u t th e u s e of s uc h


,

m ean s can no t be appro ve d oi T h e way d escribe d


.

i s as goo d as any a n d is sa fe I t th e p in ion s are very


,
.

bad l y ru ste d t h ey s ho uld be rej ecte d and o thers p u t


i n a s they w i l l be o u t o f shape w he n fi n i s h e d off
,

s m ooth and wo u l d n ot per form wel l i n th e watch


, .

P utti ng Teeth i nto W heels T o p u t i n teet h in


.

watch or clock w hee l s w itho u t d ovetail ing o r so l der .

ing them d ril l a ho le so m ew hat w i d er t h a n th e


,

too th s q uare t hro ugh the p l ate a l ittl e be lo w t he


,

too th C u t fro m the edge o f th e w hee l sq u are d own


.
,

to th e h ol e al ready d ril led ; th e n fla tte n a piec e of


wire so a s to fi t s n ug l y i nto th e c u t o f the saw a n d ,

w ith a l igh t ham m e r form a head o n it l ike the head


o f a p in . W h e n th u s prepare d pre ss the wire or
,

pin into th e e m pty space of the whee l the head fi l ,

l ing th e hol e d ril l ed th ro ugh t he p late and the n pro ,

j e c ti n
g u t so as to form th e tooth ; the n with a sharp
o

po inte d grave r c u t a s m al l groove eac h side o f the


pin fro m th e e d ge o f th e w h ee l down to th e hole a n d ,

w ith a b l o w o f yo u r ha m m e r spread th e face of th e


p in so a s to fi ll th e groo v e j u s t c u t R epea t the
.

sam e O peratio n o n th e other s ide o f t h e w heel and


fi n i s h off i n the u su a l way T h e toot h w il l be fo und
.

per fec tly rivete d in o n e very side an d as strong a s


th e origina l on e w h i le in app e aran c e i t w i ll b e e q ual
,

to th e b e st dove tailed j ob .
P R ACT I CA L HAN D BO O K . 10 7

TO Poli s h a W atch W heel I t can b e do n e n icely in


.

the fo l lowin g man n er : ge t a cork fla t o n t h e top and , ,

p u t i n to a v ice ; o n it p l ace th e w h ee l a s fa r a s th e ,

p in io n w i l l al l ow ; t h e n tak e a b l u e ston e an d water


a n d grind th e wh ee l smooth an d flat al l th e tim e r e ,

vol v ing it w ith the le ft han d ; wa sh i t an d pu t i n a ,

box w it h so m e sl acke d powdered l im e T h is i s don e .

s 1m p 1 for th e purpo se o f dry ing i t a n d pre ve n t i n g


y ,

the p in io n fro m ge tti ng stained o r r usty B r u s h it .

o u t n ice a n d clean p u t a n o th e r cork cl e a n an d fla t


, , ,

in th e v ice a n d po u n d so m e croc u s o n a stake


, .

S o me work m e n add a l it tl e ro uge bu t th i s is s imp l y ,

a m at ter o f taste T a k e a s l ip o f tin abou t th e si z e


.
,

o f a watc h maker s fi le o n ly t h icker fi le th e e n d o f



, ,

o n e s i de fla t an d s mooth charge it wit h a littl e o f the


,

c roc u s an d pol ish t he wh ee l al l th e tim e rotating it


, ,

w it h you r l e ft hand ; do n ot cease u nti l both w h ee l


a nd tin pol ish e r are al m os t d ry so that yo u ca n see ,

th e pol is h w hen i f to you r sati s faction c l ean th e


, , ,

w h e e l o ff with a p i e c e o f s o ft bread and bru s h i t ,

ou t. S hou ld it be scratc hed br e ad i t cl ean


,

off th e tin an d take a n e w su pply o f croc u s


,
C l ean .

li n e s s in this m an ip u lation is o f the greate st im port


an ce for i f there s ho ul d be any grit abo u t th e croc u s
, ,

pol is h e r or th e fi n g e r s of th e workm an th e wor k


, ,

w il l be fu l l of scratch e s T h i s app l ie s sim p ly to bar


.

w h eel s .
W A T C H M A KE R S AND w ’
10 8

j E LE R s
E

TO B us h a Wheel .
A watch wil l fre q uently s top
becau se a w hee l i s improperly ce n tere d i n its e l f ,

whereby on e si d e w i ll gear too deep t he o ther too ,

s ha l lo w into th e pin io n drive n by i t S u c h a w hee l


,
.

l ike l y i s o f th e prop e r siz e and ha s good t e e th b ut ,

th e d i fli c u lty i s i ts proper ce nterin g whe n fi tt e d to ,

its p in ion T h e fol l owing wil l be fou n d to be an


.

e asy way of correctio n T a k e a piec e o f l ead of


.

abo u t th e th ick nes s of a s il v er hal f d ol lar an d cl ip ,

an d hle it rou n d so tha t i t wil l fi t in to on e of th e


l arge r s tep s i n a step ch uck of an A m eric a n lathe .

S crew it fas t in to the l athe an d w h il e re vo l v ing , ,

cen ter an d d ri l l a hol e of abou t th e s iz e o f a w in ding


arbor T he n w ith a gra ver tu rn ou t a rec e s s th e
.
, , ,

size and a tr i fle m ore than th e th ickness of the


whee l so that it w il l fi t in exact w ith its tee th touc h
, ,

ing th e o u tsi d e o f th e c u t D rive th e whee l fro m its


.

p in ion an d broach o u t th e ce n ter so a s to tak e a


, ,

b u sh o f s u fli c i e n t l ength w hich sho uld be fi r m ly


,

rive te d in an d fi le d smooth o n th e l ower sid e T urn .

a sm al l groov e arou nd th e o ut side o f th e c u t in th e


l ead cro w d i n the wh e e l w ith a burn isher s e t a s a
, ,

gavel T h is fi x e s the whee l per fectly tru e on the


.

o utsid e N ow cen ter an d dril l leav ing a l i ttl e to


.
,

be turn ed and w ith a fi n e pol i sh ed graver to fi t '


,

the sam e pin io n R ive t on a n d you r w h ee l i s al l


.
,

righ t .
W ATC H M AK E R S ’
AND J E W E LE RS ’

e nough hol d the sam e i start in mo tion a n d w ith


to ,

a fi n e poin ted burn isher ra ise the beze l s u fli c i e n t to


receiv e a ne w j e we l ; sel ec t a j ewel to fi t both p ivot
a nd se tting r e pl ace i n ch u ck and with a l i ttl e larger
, ,

burn isher clo se d own th e b eze l on j ewel an d vo ur ,

j ob i s compl e t e .

Ti ghteni ng Ruby P i ns I f i t i s necess a ry to


.

tighten a r u by pin se t it i n asphal tu m varn ish


,
It .

w i l l become hard i n a fe w m in u tes an d be m uc h ,

fi r m e r an d bette r th an in sh e l lac as gen eral ly u se d , .

To P oli sh J ewel S etti ngs A v ery good way to


.

pol ish j ewe l settings to A m erican watc he s o f brass ,

or gol d i s as fo l lo ws :
,
F irs t t urn th e set ting d ow n
to t h e right thick n e s s or n ear l y s o an d the n grind
, ,

do wn to a gray o n a gro u n d gl as s s lab w ith rotte n


ston e the n c l ean 0 11 the o ily rotte n s tone a n d

pol ish o n a bo x woo d lap with d i a m a ntin e


a nd o il w h ich gi v
,
e s a n ice glos s I t wil l al so giv e a .

n ice gl oss o n s tee l o nly u se 0 11 s ton e to gray s teel


,

w ith i n stead o f rotten sto ne T h e operator sho ul d


,
.

be particul ar to cl ean o ff al l th e gray ing powder i n


each case be fore u sing the box wood lap and be su re ,

to k eep the lap i n a pl ace fre e from grit or d u st when


no t i n u se ; bras s watch wheel s can be fi n i s h e d in the
sam e way a s the j ewe l set tings by th e sam e proce s s .

New J ewels T h e ba d actio n of a watch m ay fr e


.

q u e n t l y b e tr a c ed to imper fe c t j e w e l s T h e repaire r .
P RACT I CA L H AN D BOO K . I I I

s ho u l d c ar e ful ly exam in e e very j ewel i n a w a tc h


ta k en d own for repairs and i f he fi n d s on e w ith th e
,


h o l e too large o r o u t of ro u n d t hat i s m u c h wide r

, , ,

i n o n e directio n th an i n anothe r i t sho u l d be rep laced


,

by a good on e i n th e fo l lowing m an ner : I f th e depth


,

is correc t notic e w het he r th e j ewel is abov e or be lo w


,

t h e su r fac e of th e pla te ; i f it is either the n knock it ,

o u t a n d ce m en t t h e p late or bri d ge o n a ch uck in th e

la th e be ing care fu l to ge t i t o n tr ue by th e hol e l ate


, ,

ly occ up ied by th e j ewel B y m ean s o f a burn ishe r


.

r a ise the burr tha t hold s th e j e wel i n a n d i f a j ewel ,

c a n be fo un d of the proper size an d th ickn e ss a n d ,

th e hole n ot too l arge i t can r e ad ily b e rubbed i n ” “


,

w i th th e b urn isher ; i f th e hol e i s too s mall it ca n b e ,

O pe n ed T h e c h uc k on w hich th e articl e is cem e n te d


.

s ho ul d hav e a hol e fro m a quarter to a ha lf an in c h

d eep i n its c e n tr e I f n o j e w el s can be fo u nd o f the


.

righ t siz e a n d t h ick ne s s sel ect on e a l ittle too l arge


, ,

e n large th e h ol e s u ffi c i e n tly to p u t the j ewel i n and ,

the n proceed to fa ste n i t I f th e j ewe l i s brok e n of


.
,

c o ur s e th e s a m e re m ark s a pply to replacing it w ith

a good o n e . On e d i ffi c u lty that th e watch m a ke r has


to co n t e n d with in sel e ctin g a j ewel fro m th e i n d i i
,
'

fe r e n t lo t s uppl ied by som e deal e r s is to fi n d on e , ,

th e hol e of wh ic h is in th e ce n ter of th e j ew e l I f a .

jewe l is not tru e or r a th e r i t th e hol e i n i t i s no t in


, ,

th e c e n te r i t m u s t b e c e m e n t e d i n to a c h u ck i n
,
1 12 W AT CH MA K E RS AND J EW E LE RS ’ ’

the l athe trued u p b y th e hol e the n tu rned off w ith


, ,

a d iamond c utter and t h e c ham fer car e ful l y trued


,

up an d pol is hed again ; w h il e i n th e lathe it can b e


tn r n e d down to fi t the hol e in th e se tting T h e she l .

lac i s to be re mo ve d fro m th e pl ate w ith alco hol .

I n m any in stances a c h u ck w il l hav e to be turned '

u p to s u it the partic u lar j ob to be don e C are m u st .

be take n i n op e n ing or th e j ewe l w il l break or


,

ch ip aro u n d th e ho l e ; T h e corn ers m u st be care


fu l l y ro u nded by a piece of w ir e l arger than th e hol e ,

th e end o f w h i ch i s co n ical I t w i l l take bu t a


.

m ome n t to d o th is b ut i f car e i s no t take n too


,

m u ch w il l be tak e n off .

To M ar k Tools . C over th e part to be marked w ith


a t h in coating of ta l l ow an d bee swax ; w it h a sharp

in stru m e n t w rite th e n am e i n the ta l lo w c u tting ,

c l early in to i t ; hll th e le tte rs w ith n itric acid an d l e t ,

i t rem ain fro m o n e to te n m in utes ; d ip i n w ater an d


rub o ff a n dey o u h av e t he m ark etc h e d
,
.

The Ros e C utter T h e ro s e c u tte r i s q uite a v al u


.

a bl e adj u n c t to a lath e and i s fi x e d to th e spindl e i n


,

the sam e m an n er as a ch u ck a n d ,

wil l be fou n d ex cee d ing l y u se fu l


,

for qu ick ly red uc in g piece s o f


wire for screw s etc to a gau g e ,
.
,
.

Fo r s cre ws th e w ire shoul d be ,

of a prope r s i ze for th e sc re w
1 14 W ATC H MAK E RS AND J E W E LE RS
’ ’

w at e r ; pain t the mark w ith th e so l ution the n scratch


,
.

brus h fi n i s h with was hi ng i n ho t wate r


, .

S weati ng of Show W i ndows T ake o n e fo urt h


.
-

po u n d glyce rin e to tw o an d on e fo urt h quarts alco


'

ho l an d a l itt l e e s se ntia l o i l ; the qu anti ty o f glyc e r


,

in e varie s according to its qual ity B y the composi .

tion of the above s p e c i fi e d ingre d ien ts the e sse n tia l


,

o i l is d is sol v ed by th e alco hol a n d th e fl u i d u n ite d


,

w ith the gl ycerin e I t m ay be d on e at or d inary te m


.

p e r a tu r e an d it is n ot n eces sary to e xpo s e th e m i x


,

tu re to h eat T h is is app l i ed to th e in sid e o f the


.

w in d ow T h e pan e is e ithe r rubbed with a clean


.

l in e n cloth or e ls e the flu id m ass is appl ied with a


,

c ame l s ha ir bru sh an d the bl in d appearance o f the



,

gla s s owi ng to overheating i s e n tirely overcom e


, , .

To Remove I nk S tai ns fr om S i lver S i l ve r pe n


.

hol d ers an d in k stan d s fre q uen tly beco m e deeply d is


-

co l ored w ith i nk and the stain s are so me tim e s v er v


'

d i ffic u lt to re mov e T hey m ay be remove d by r u b


.

bing the stain s w ith a pas te com po s e d o f c hlori d e of


l i me an d water .

To Clean W atch C as es V e ry d irty or o x idize d


.

si l v er or gol d watch c ase s can be r e stored by bru sh


in g th e m w i th a so ft bru s h an d a l ittle rouge an d oi l .

T h e case i s a fterward cl ean ed with an other bru s h an d


a l ittle ( best i s l uke warm ) w ate r and soap an d fi n a lly ,

lai d in al cohol to re m ov e al l trace s o f th e soap T h e .


PRACT I CA L HAND BOO K . 1 15

c ase a fte r being take n from th e al cohol i s dried with ,

a c l e an rag I t i s e v ide n t th a t the mo v e m e nt a n d


.
,

i f po ssibl e th e case sprin gs ha v e be e n tak e n ou t


, , .

C lean dry sawd us t m ay be u se d i n place o f alcoho l ;


l ea v e the case in it u n til thoroughly d ry

To Remove S tai ns fr om Mar ble Gas es T o r e mo v e .

s tain s fro m marbl e case s cloc k d ia l s etc tak e e qual


, ,
.
,

parts o f fr e s h oil of v itriol and l e mo n j uice ; s hak e


u p th e s e s u b s ta nce s v ery thorough ly i n a bo ttl e w e t ,

spot w it h th e m ixture an d i n a fe w m in ut e s a fter


,

w a rd ru b w ith a so ft l in e n clo th and the spot s wi l l be


fo u n d to have disapp e ared
-

TO Drill i nto H ar d S teel; M a k e yo ur dril l o val i n


form in stead of th e u sual pointed sh a p e and te mp e r
, ,

a s hard as it w il l bear w itho u t bre a king ; th en ro ughe n

th e su r fac e w h ic h yo u de sire to drill wi th a l ittl e


d il uted m uriatic acid a n d i n s tead of oil u se turpe n
, , ,

t in e or glyc e rine i n w h ich a l ittle gu m cam phor has


,

be e n d is s ol v e d a s a l ubricant
,
I n operating ke e p
.
,

th e pre s su re o n yo u r dril l fir m an d st e a dy ; and i f th e


b ot tom of the hole sho u l d c hanc e to becom e b ur
n i s h e d so th e dril l w il l no t ac t a s so me tim e s happ e n s
, , ,

a gain ro ugh e n w ith d il u ted acid a s b e fore ; th e n c l e a n

o u t the hol e car e fu l ly a n d proce e d ag a in .

To Temper D ri lls S el e c t no n e b u t the fi n e s t a n d


.

b e st stee l for yo u r d ril l s I n mak ing the m n e v er


.
,

h ea t h igh e r t ha n a c h erry red a n d a l wa y s h a m me r ,


1 16 W ATC H MAK E R S ’
AN D J E W ELE RS ’

til l n e arly cold D o al l yo ur ham m ering i n o n e


.

way for i i a fter y ou hav e flattened o u t y ou r piece


, , ,

o u a ttemp t to ham m er it back to a square or ro u n d


y ,

you w il l ru in i t W he n you r d ril l is in proper shape


.
,

h e a t it to a c herry red and thru st i t i nto a piece o f


resin o r in to m erc ury S om e u se a so l u tio n of c v
. an u

ret of p ota s s i a and rai n wat e r for te m p e r i ng t heir


d ril l s but th e re sin o r m ercury wil l giv e be tt e r r e
,

s u lt s .

To D rill Pearls . T he
asiest way to ho ld pearl s
e ,

in ord e r to d ri l l a n d otherwise c u t th em i s to fi t ,

th e m l oosely i n ho l e s bored i n a piec e o f woo d A .

fe w d rops o f w a ter spri n k l ed abou t the hol es cau se s


the woo d fi b r e s to swe l l and hold th e pe arl s fi r m ly .

W h e n th e woo d d rie s they fal l ou t .

To Clean P earls S oak th e m i n war m water in


.

w h ic h br a n ha s been boile d with a l ittl e s alts o f tar


,
.

tar and al u m r ubbin g gen tly be twee n th e han d s


,
.

W h e n th e water i s co ld ren ew th e o pe ratio n u n ti l


,

th e d i scoloratio n i s r e m ov ed ; rin se i n l u ke warm


water an d la y th e pearl s in w h ite paper i n a dark
,

pl ace to cool and dry .

To Renov ate B r onze B ron ze may b e r e nov a ted an d


.

r e col ore d by m i xin g o n e part of m uriatic aci d an d


-

two part s o f wat e r Free the articl e fro m a l l gr e ase


.

an d d irt an d app l y t he acid with a cloth W he n dry .

po lish it with b e e swa x or swee t oil .


1 18 W ATCH MA KE R S A ND J EW E L E R S
’ ’

I mi tati on P ati na . M ix carbon a te of copper and


an y l ight alcoholic v arn i sh an d apply to the obj ect
with a bru sh T h i s pain t wil l pen etrate the sm al l e st
.

recesses o f bron z e obj ects and w hen dry has th e


,

app ea rance of patin a C arbon ate of copp e r give s a


'

bl ue patin a v
,e r ti gr i s a lig h t g r e e n an d int e rm e diat e

shad e s m ay be prod uc e d by m i x in g th e two .


G
old and Silv
er Refiners and Assayers .

S WEE P S M E LT E R S .

S . W . C or H
. alsey an d M a r s h a ll S tr e ets ,

N E W A R K, N . J .

G
OLDANDSILVER ASSAYINGI NALL I TS BRANCHES .

Cor r es p on d en ce S oli c i te d . L e tter s p r omp tly a ns w er e d .


A NDE R C OO K -

ENGRAVERS
4 0 7 -4 2 5 DE A R B O FI N S T .

C H I C A GO , U . S . A .

S i ze 00. W ood E n gr a v
i ng
T hi s S i ze

PO R T R A I TS M AD E A NY S I ZE

F R OM PH O T OGR A PH S H a lf T on e . E n gr a v
ed fr om 0.

P h otog r a p h . Th i s S i ze .

3 M E T H ODS
W ood E ngr av i ng, Zi nc E ngr a i ng, H alt Tone Pr ocess v -
.

E N GR A V I N GS of B u 1ld i n g s , L a n ds ca p es , P or t a i ts
r and a ll
ki n ds of I
” “
l lu s trt lo w e s t p o s s i b l e r a t e s , e h e r
a ti o n

s ,
a it
on

W OOD P H O T O E N GR A V E D ,
.
- or b y ou r

H A L F -T O N E
E N GR A V I N G, ”
i
a cc or d n g to th e n a u e o f th e s u je c t r b t .

V A N DE R C O O K a CO .
, E N GR A V E R S ,

4 07 -
4 25 De n e aonu S t e a m ”. C l-GI C A GO .
On S i x th
e -
S i ze of N O 2 . .

ma nufa ctu re rs of Watch make rs


Yo u w i ll not ic e t he
Lat he s t he g oo d t he b a d a nd ind iffe re nt a ll c la i m
, , .

' '
to m ak e t he be s t I f t rue t is s t ra n g e ; t is s tran g e
.

ui t ru e
. T he w o rd b e s t s e e m s to hav e lo s t its t ru e
me an ing We c la im to make o ne of t he Be s t of t he
. ,

very Be s t Ca n a nyo ne c la im m ore ? Wh en inte re s te d


.

w rit e yo u r jo b b e r fo r ne w li st o r t he m a nu fa ct u re rs
,
.

M OS E LE Y 61 . CO .
,

E L GI N , I LL .

Fu ll S i ze N o 2
. .
Parsons Horological lnstitute

I E OKI A , I L L

.

T H E P I O N E E R S C H OO L .

The First . The largest . The Best .

Formerly of La P or te, I nd but now of .

PE ORI A , I LL .

B y thi s change we hav e enlar ged our faci li ti es .

No other s chool i n the world has s o


many adv antages .

l ars
Send for Ci rcu gi v
i ng terms and ment i on The A meri can l
Jewe er .
For Electri cal and E xper i mental W ork .For J ew
eler s and W atchmaker s . For Guns miths and
Tool M aker s . For General Machi ne S hep W ork .

H igh gra d e tool s ; e legan t d e sign s uperior i n


ln ,

con structio n T h e
. best foot p o w e r l ath e s made a n d ,

qual ity con si d ere d the c heapest


,
.

s s u o roe C A T A L O GU E A ND p mcss .

W . F. 61 J N O
. . B A R NES CO .

9 84 R uby S t r e e t , R OC K FOR D , I L L .
oi ls 2 0 or olo

I N C O R PO R A T E D 18 8 8 . Rt -
O n o n m z z o 18 9 0 .

T he m o st p ractical ly equ ipped i n A m e rica an d,

giv ing th e m o st t horo ugh cou rse of in s tructio n i n


W atc h and C loc k M ak in g , R epairing ,
E ngrav in g
an d th e genera l branc h es co n n ect e d w it h th e abo ve .

Y ou can l earn W atc h m ak ing , R e p a irin g and

E ngrav ing so
y ou ca n do fi rst class wor k w hic h we ,

guara n tee .

A ll s tuden ts t hat att e nded th is C ol lege are hold


ing A 1 posi tion s .

W e gu aran t e e y ou th e b e st at m odera te cos t


, .

WR I TE F OR P R OS P E C T U S .

C . R . H A R T , Sup t .

78 5 W . M a d i s on S t
AS K YO U R J O B B E R S FO R T H E

R EGI STFQ ED.

FO R C L E A NI NG
D i amonds , Foi lback and any ki nd of S oli d G old and

Gold P lated or G i lt J ewelry .

W arran ted not to co ntai n any aci d l way s rea d y


. A
for u se P ay s a good p r o fit to se l l to yo u r c u stomers
. .

P u t up i n 4 an d 8 o z bott l e s al so by th e ga l l o n i n
.
,

b ul k
.

FA C TO R Y AT

344 WABA SH A VE .
,
CH I CA GO .

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