Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Olivier Rozenberg
French Politics, Society and Culture
Series Editor
Jocelyn Evans
School of Politics & International Studies
University of Leeds
Leeds, UK
This series examines all aspects of French politics, society and culture. In
so doing it focuses on the changing nature of the French system as well as
the established patterns of political, social and cultural life. Contributors
to the series are encouraged to present new and innovative arguments so
that the informed reader can learn and understand more about one of the
most beguiling and compelling of European countries.
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The book is dedicated to Denise and Roger, and Solange and Hersz,
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Acknowledgments
This book was published in 2018 in French under the title Les députés
français et l’Europe. Tristes hémicycles? by the Presses de Sciences Po in
Paris. It was translated from French by Ray Godfrey, Richard Jemmet,
Katharine Throssell and Julia Zelman. Thanks to them and especially to
Julia, who coordinated it all.
I am grateful for all members of parliaments, clerks and civil servants
who gave me their time and their words in interviews.
The book would not have been published without the initial support of
Professor Richard Balme, the decisive support of David Por and Yves
Surel, the final support of Renaud Dehousse and Florence Haegel … and
the continuous support of Emilie. Merci à eux. Thanks also to my OPAL
colleagues, Claudia Hefftler et al., “al.” being, among others, Katrin Auel,
Christine Neuhold, Julie Smith, Angela Tacea, Anja Thomas and
Wolfgang Wessels.
vii
Contents
1 Introduction 1
ix
x CONTENTS
9 Conclusion263
Index283
Abbreviations
xi
List of Figures
xiii
List of Tables & Inserts
Tables
Table 2.1 European prerogatives and activities in different parliamentary
chambers, per-year averages from 2010–2012 30
Table 3.1 Various groups’ support in France for the principle of a federal
Europe (2010–2011 in %) 65
Table 4.1 Title of texts distributed to members of the Delegation during
the meeting on 19 March 2003 108
Table 4.2 Reports with a local dimension presented by the Delegation for
the EU (1997–2002) 109
Table 4.3 Actors in contact with Alain Marleix (2002) 121
Table 4.4 Actors in contact with Laurence Dumont (2001) 124
Table 5.1 Electoral results for the CPNT in European elections 136
Table 5.2 Vote on the final reading of the hunting bill on 28 June 2008
by parliamentary group 140
Table 5.3 The electoral situations of the Socialist MPs who voted against
the party line on the hunting law of 26 July 2000 149
Table 5.4 Votes on the hunting law of 26 July 2000 of Socialist MPs in
constituencies where hunters obtained more than 5% in the first
round of the legislative elections in 2002 150
Table 6.1 Voting by anti-Maastricht MPs on later European treaties or
constitutional revisions 180
Table 7.1 The positioning of Socialist MPs regarding the constitutional
treaty and the constitutional revision prior to its ratification 213
Table 9.1 Europeanisation of French Parliamentary roles (1992–2017) 265
Table 9.2 Factors in Europeanisation of French MPs (1992–2017) 267
xv
xvi List of Tables & Inserts
Inserts
Insert 2.1 Excerpts of interviews with non-specialised MPs in European
Affairs relating to the oversight of European questions by the
National Assembly 35
Insert 2.2 Excerpts of interviews with MP members of the Delegation to
the EU about the National Assembly’s oversight of European
questions45
Insert 5.1 Extracts of comments by MPs during the reading of the law of
3 July 1998 152
CHAPTER 1
Introduction
My dear colleagues, by now you have certainly not failed to notice the pres-
ence of the national flag in the Chamber. In response to a wish unanimously
expressed by the National Assembly, I insisted upon putting an end to an
anomaly that, astonishingly, had persisted under each Republic: the absence
of a Republican national symbol in the Chamber. Today, thanks to you, this
symbol has been restored.1
The MPs applauded. During the next day’s session, as on every first
Wednesday of the month, the first four questions were dedicated to
European topics. The Minister for European Affairs, Catherine Colonna,
concluded her response to a question by alluding to the previous day’s
decision: ‘Allow me to express my wish, since it’s the season for it, that the
day will come when the European flag is present beside the French flag in
this Chamber. After all, we have been part of Europe for the past fifty
years’.2 Speaker Debré interrupted: ‘That decision would fall under the
National Assembly’s responsibility’. A few minutes later, another inci-
dent occurred:
Jean Dionis du Séjour: In the name of the UDF party, I wish to sup-
port Ms. Colonna’s proposition to place the
European flag next to the tricolour flag.
(Applause from several benches of the Union for
French Democracy party.)
Speaker: Mr. Dionis du Séjour, the absence of the
European flag has no symbolic significance.
The Bureau of the National Assembly consid-
ers this Chamber to be emblematic of national
debate and the development of national law.
Jean Lassalle: Hear, hear!
Jacques Desallangre and
M. Maxime Gremetz: Quite right!
Speaker: That is the reason why the Bureau chose to
place only the French flag here. (Applause from
several benches of the Union for a Popular
Movement, the Union for French Democracy, the
Socialist group and the Communist and
Republican group.)3
of the Assembly to place the European flag in the Chamber during the
French presidency of the European Union in the second half of 2008.5
This was accomplished, and the flag has not since been removed.
However, the controversy around the flag has remained. One decade
later, in June 2017, the colourful extreme-leftist MP Jean-Luc Mélenchon
was elected to the Assembly. As he was visiting the hemicycle the day after
his election, surrounded by journalists, he exclaimed pointing at the flag:
‘Hey, honestly, do we have to stand for that? It’s the French Republic
here, not the Virgin Mary’—an allusion to the stars surrounding Mary in
the Christian iconography that by the creator’s own admission inspired
the flag. A new Speaker, François de Rugy, was elected the following day.
At the end of his thank-you speech, he said:
internal market rules, and international trade. The EU also acts in a great
number of other domains. Even where the Union does not intervene or
does so in a limited manner, it still exerts an influence through the effects
of its decisions, for example through the jurisprudence of the European
Court of Justice or the monitoring of public financing. Indeed, within the
framework of the Economic and Monetary Union, the EU’s institutions
seek to set limits on national budget deficits. The integration of Europe is
predicated on certain specific legal instruments that are derived from trea-
ties and binding on national legislation. Suggested at times by heads of
state or of governments on the European Council, systematically proposed
by the European Commission, adopted by ministers on the Council of the
EU and, often, by the European Parliament, European regulations and
directives are imposed—directly in the case of the former, and through
transposition for the latter—on national law. The European prerogative is
universally binding: on ministries, businesses, citizens and, of course, on
national parliaments. The EU thus calls into question the authority of
national parliaments not only to participate in the European legislative
process but also to legislate freely on the national level.
Aside from legislation, parliaments also have a role in the oversight of
executive power, a function which may become difficult to exercise in
European matters as much for technical reasons (complexity of the proj-
ects, access to information, etc.) as for lack of diplomatic opportunities.
The parliamentarians’ state of gloom (which does not preclude brief flights
of optimism) therefore stems from their observation of European political
systems’ problems in overcoming the tensions arising from the mecha-
nisms of representative democracy on a national basis—a legacy of the
nineteenth century—and the integration of a continent, ongoing since the
second half of the twentieth century. The portrait of an institution with a
‘case of the blues’ will be frequently reinforced and only rarely contra-
dicted in the pages that follow.
However, following the example of other European assemblies, the
French Parliament has not been idle in the face of these existential chal-
lenges. It has successfully worked to obtain new rights, created structures
and procedures for European issues, and dedicated substantial resources
to these new tools. Yet the Assembly and the Senate remain marginal play-
ers on the European stage in both the creation and debate of European
public policies. This book seeks not only to illuminate the reasons for this
ineffectuality but also to elucidate the multiple, diffuse, and unequal
forms of French parliamentarians’ acculturation to Europe, beyond any
1 INTRODUCTION 5
Notes
1. Journal officiel de la République française (JORF), Assemblée nationale
(AN), Compte rendu (CR), second session of Tuesday 9 January 2007,
p. 31.
2. JORF, AN, CR, first session of 10 January 2007, p. 108.
3. Ibid., p. 109.
4. The Palais-Bourbon is the name of the National Assembly main building,
the name for the Senate being le Palais du Luxembourg.
5. Minutes of the Bureau meeting of 25 June 2008.
6. JORF, AN, CR, 124th session of 27 June 2017, p. 91188.
7. From 1997 to 2002, France experienced its third episode of divided gov-
ernment with a right-wing President, Jacques Chirac, and a leftist majority
in the National Assembly resulting from Chirac’s order of dissolution.
Lionel Jospin was Prime Minister of a coalition government dominated by
the Socialists and allied with the Communists, the Greens, the center-left
Radicals and a small group of former socialists called the Citizens. In 2002,
Chirac was re-elected and supported by a large majority in Parliament. For
Prime Minister he appointed Jean-Pierre Raffarin, then, in 2005, after the
rejection by referendum of the European constitutional treaty, Dominique
de Villepin. In 2007, a former minister of his, Nicolas Sarkozy, was elected.
Although originating from the same party, Sarkozy pretended to break
with Chirac’s legacy. He was backed by an absolute majority in Parliament
and chose François Fillon as Prime Minister for his whole term. In 2012,
Sarkozy was defeated by François Hollande, second Socialist President of
the Fifth Republic.
8. As part of a doctoral dissertation defended in 2005 at Sciences Po Paris,
under the direction of Professor Richard Balme.
9. See the list of interviews with parliamentarians in the Appendix. Names
have been removed from all other interviews, which are simply listed by
number. The Centre for Socio-Political Data at Sciences Po, and its beQuali
8 O. ROZENBERG
References
Gardey, D. (2015). Le Linge du Palais-Bourbon. Corps, matérialité et genre du
politique. Lormont: Le Bord de l’Eau.
Searing, D. (1994). Westminster’s World. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
CHAPTER 2
these structures for a long time. As Hervé Trnka, head of the European
Service division from 1976 to 1988, director of the Foreign Documentation
Service at the National Assembly, explains, ‘Faure was the father of the
European Service; Foyer was the father of the Delegation’.2 The radical Edgar
Faure, a confirmed pro-European, headed the assembly during the Fifth
Parliament (1973–1978) and created the European Service as a branch of
the Foreign Documentation service in 1976. Trnka, the director of the
latter, recounts the follow story about the creation of the Delegation:
With the direct election of the European Parliament in 1979, national delega-
tions disappeared. My two administrators told me that there was no link left
between the European Parliament and national parliaments. They proposed
that a Delegation be created; one already existed for demographics and plan-
ning. This Delegation could collect documentation for the use of national par-
liaments and give hearings to French MEPs [Members of the European
Parliament]. We asked ourselves who might take up this idea. Jean Foyer, chair-
man of the Law Committee, was the most anti-European. He had written
articles along the lines of “we’re going to be overwhelmed”. He agreed to sponsor
a bill on creating the Delegation to which the government would have to submit
draft European texts.
The government shall lay before the National Assembly and the Senate drafts
of European legislative acts as well as other drafts of or proposals for acts of
the European Union as soon as they have been transmitted to the council of
the European Union. In the manner laid down by the rules of procedure of
each House, European resolutions may be passed, even if Parliament is not in
session, on the drafts or proposals referred to in the preceding paragraph, as
well as on any document issuing from a European Union Institution.
A committee in charge of European affairs shall be set up in each parlia-
mentary assembly.
the Senate. Those EU committees were kept distinct from the standing
committees. The principle of parliamentarians’ double membership, in the
committee responsible for European affairs and in a standing committee,
was therefore maintained. The inscription of the delegations into the
Constitution nonetheless facilitated their capacity to adopt resolutions by
granting them greater clout. In the Assembly as in the Senate, it was thence-
forth established that if the relevant standing committee had not submitted
a report on the European Affairs Committee’s resolution proposal within
one month, the resolution would be considered approved by this standing
committee. Nevertheless, the resolution would not yet be definitive, since
the Conference of Presidents could potentially decide whether it would be
discussed on the floor. In the Assembly, the Conference has two weeks to
decide to do so, while in the Senate, a motion may be brought before it
within two days, after which it has seven days to decide. In addition, the
National Assembly European Affairs Committee gained a monopoly on pre-
paratory examinations of resolutions: it now systematically scrutinises reso-
lution proposals presented by groups of MPs or individual members.
If the ex-delegations are less dependent on the goodwill of the standing
committees, it is still possible for standing committees to redo, or even
veto, the European Affairs Committee’s work. A reading of the Standing
Orders of each chamber is ample testimony to the European Affairs
Committee’s auxiliary status, which the draft constitutional law had ini-
tially named, in French, as a ‘comité’ and not a ‘commission’. In the
Assembly, a standing committee may ask the European Affairs Committee
to examine a European text and formulate a report. Furthermore, it may
demand that the European Affairs Committee do so within a month. In
the Senate, the European Affairs Committee is subsidiary, the standing
committees having priority to examine a European text for the two weeks
that follow its transmission. Another limitation on both European Affairs
Committees is that they have not obtained the right to give their views
officially during the domestic legislative procedure.13 The European
Committee of the Assembly may certainly ‘make observations’ on a bill
‘relevant to an area covered under EU activity’—which is not restrictive—
and potentially present them on the floor. But these observations are not
amendments, a fact which deprives the committee of the related proce-
dural guarantees, not to mention of a certain prestige.
Apart from provisions relating to European resolutions, the constitu-
tional revisions of 2005 and February 2008 introduced new provisions
2 INSTITUTIONAL ADAPTATION: A CASE OF TROMPE-L’OEIL? 19
(Nuttens and Sicard 2000; Hefftler and Gattermann 2015). The frame-
works facilitating cooperation are especially plentiful, since they corre-
spond to relations between different geographic zones (Franco-German,
Franco-British, Franco-German-Polish, etc.), different regional geopoliti-
cal structures (certainly the EU, but also the Council of Europe, NATO,
the Union for the Mediterranean, etc.) and assembly apparatus: the speak-
ers, the chief clerks, all the standing committees (particularly the Foreign
Affairs, Defence and Budget Committees), the so-called Friendship
Groups with other EU countries, and of course the European Affairs
Committee. These last are part of a structure initiated by the National
Assembly Speaker Laurent Fabius in 1989, known as the Conference of
Community and European Affairs Committees of Parliaments and desig-
nated with the French acronym COSAC (Conférence des Organes Spécialisés
dans les Affaires Communautaires). COSAC meetings reunite members of
each national Parliament’s European affairs committee every half-year in
the capital of the country currently holding the presidency of the Council
of the EU. Mentioned in the treaties, this conference possesses few powers
but has served as a place to socialise and exchange parliamentary monitor-
ing practices and norms (Buzogany 2013)—a purpose that is especially
crucial since, as mentioned, the treaty provisions relating to national par-
liaments are by necessity minimal.
Overall, the history of the institutionalisation of European activities in
the French Parliament evinces remarkable progress given the weakness of
the French Parliament under the Fifth Republic, but also testifies to lasting
difficulties, particularly regarding the institutionalisation of specialised
parliamentary structures in European matters. Indeed, it took no fewer
than 30 years for the delegations to be renamed committees, and even so,
they did not attain the status of standing committees. Fully 16 years passed
before the Assemblies could adopt resolutions on all types of European
acts even though they were legally innocuous. This process was, in the
end, not greatly influenced by European treaties, depending mainly on
internal political considerations. The changes often required forms of
convergence between Eurosceptic and Europhile politicians. As a last
point, the permanence of these changes, reforms and adaptations is strik-
ing. With remarkable consistency, the Assemblies seek to improve the cur-
rent system by drawing on foreign examples and by learning from past
mistakes. The next section of the chapter is devoted precisely to evaluating
this institutionalisation.
2 INSTITUTIONAL ADAPTATION: A CASE OF TROMPE-L’OEIL? 21
120 20%
100
15%
80 76 73 75 75
60 55 54 56 10%
49 49 46 48 47 46 46
42 42
40 35 37 36 34 35 32 34 37
33
31 29
26 24 22 27 26 25 24 5%
19 20
20 13
9 9
0 0%
200 30%
180
25%
160
140
20%
118
120 108 108 109
100 90 90 15%
84
78 77
80 70 71 67 69
65 66 63
60 62 10%
60 50 52 55 52
45
40
5%
20
0 0%
90 20%
80
69
70
15%
60
50 46 46 47 47
10%
40
31 31
30 26 27 25
24
20 21 21
17 17 5%
20 15 16 14
12 13 14 13
10
10
0 0%
50
45
40
35
30
25 23
20 18 20
20 16 15
15 13 14 12 13 12 12 11 13
10 10 11 8 9 10 9 8
10 6 7
5 3
0
30 1200
25 1000
23
20 20
20 800
18
17
15
15 14 14 600
13 13 13 13
12
11 11
10 10 10
10 400
8 8 8 8
7 7
5
5 200
0 0
Fig. 2.5 The Implementation of Article 88-4 of the Constitution. Sources and
notes: (1) ‘Assembly Resolutions’: Annual statistical bulletins of the National
Assembly. Only one resolution per text has been counted. 88-4 resolutions only.
(2) ‘Senate Resolutions’ and ‘88-4 documents sent’: http://www.senat.fr/
europe/dpue-bilan.html. 2013/14 = data for the year 2014. (3) ‘Proposed direc-
tives’: Eur-lex
Access to Infrastructure Influence OPAL Resolutions EAC EAC Plenary Political Opinions on OPAL
information institutional meetings meetings debates dialogue subsidiarity activity
index (number) (in hours) index
National 0.67 0.47 0.5 0.55 11.7 45.7 91:20 9.7 0.7 0.7 0.21
Assembly
Senate 0.67 0.5 0.5 0.56 19.7 46.3 55:56 9 3.3 5 0.16
EU average 0.59 0.44 0.43 0.49 33.9 43.5 66:06 13.3 11.2 1.4 0.21
Lower 0.62 0.43 0.44 0.5 27.2 41 62:50 17.6 5.3 1.3 0.2
chambers av.
Higher 0.53 0.44 0.35 0.44 23.7 42.1 60:29 13.4 13.8 1.5 0.17
chambers av.
Europe of 0.53 0.47 0.42 0.48 26 51 71:52 15.3 15.9 1.5 0.22
twelve av.
National 14th 20th 13th 13th 27th 15th 8th 18th 35th 18th 17th
Assembly
Senate 14th 14th 13th 12th 22nd 14th 20th 19th 16th 14th 23rd
Bundestag 1st 5th 4th 2nd 12th 27th 10th 3rd 19th 18th 5th
(Germany)
Commons 24th 15th 13th 17th 14th 11th 14th 7th 26th 4th 27th
(UK)
Chamber 31st 21st 7th 22th 15th 2rd 11th 9th 7th 18th 9th
(Italy)
Note: The ‘prerogative’ variables are indices between 0 and 1 calculated from different rights attributed to assemblies. The activities are given as an absolute value. EAC = European
Affairs Committee. Italian Chamber = lower house
Source: Auel et al. (2015)
2 INSTITUTIONAL ADAPTATION: A CASE OF TROMPE-L’OEIL? 31
0.7
0.6 FI
SE
0.5
0.4
Activities
DK
PT DE1
CZ2
0.3 IT1 NL1 EE
UK2
IT2 LT
ES1 DE2
ES2 AT1 National Assembly
0.2 average SK
BE1 SI1
BE2 RO1 IE1 LU PL1 UK1 LV
Senate
RO2 IE2 BG AT2 HU
0.1 CY CZ1
EL PL2 MT NL2
SI2
0
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9
Institutional prerogatives
debates before the summits (Wessels and Rozenberg 2013). After them,
French MPs, like those of the Bundestag, prefer that the Foreign Affairs
Minister (or another minister) report during joint hearings before several
committees.
Finally, concerning opinions sent to the European Commission
through the informal channels of political dialogue25 or opinions on the
subsidiarity principle, the two chambers have diverged in their choices
(Thomas and Tacea 2015). Like other parliaments in Europe, including
powerful chambers such as the German Bundestag or the Finnish
Eduskunta, the National Assembly is not very active in this domain. MPs’
potential willingness to act is discouraged by the adoption procedure of
opinions on subsidiarity. Modelled on the resolution procedure specified
in Article 88-4, this provides for review in the European Affairs
Committee, then (possibly) in a standing committee, and subsequently
(likewise possibly) on the floor. Given the time periods granted at each
stage, the European Affairs Committee can use only two weeks de facto
32 O. ROZENBERG
out of the eight weeks accorded to parliaments by the Lisbon treaty for
submitting an opinion. The Senate has used this possibility more exten-
sively by creating an informal structure within the European Affairs
Committee responsible for detecting possible violations of the subsidiar-
ity principle.
In summation, in the period from 2010 to 2012 the two French
Assemblies were close to European averages in terms of their formal pre-
rogatives as well as their actual activities. Figure 2.6 shows, furthermore,
that the relationship between their prerogatives and activities is close to
the average observed in Europe, unlike for example in the case of Czech
MPs, who have greater rights than they exercise, or that of the Portuguese
Parliament, which is in the opposite situation. This result is significant in
view of the usual classifications produced by comparative legislative stud-
ies. Such studies, numerous and sometimes mutually contradictory, agree
universally on the French Parliament’s position at the bottom of the scale.
From a constitutional perspective alone, French legislative power is at a
deficit when the particular prerogatives of the head of state, whom the
Assembly cannot censure, are taken into account (Woldendorp et al.
2000). By enlarging their focus with not less than 32 institutional criteria
relating to the relationship between the executive and legislative, Steven
Fish and Matthew Kroenig place 24 European parliaments in their index
in a range from 0.63 (Portugal) to 0.84 (Germany and Italy) (Fish and
Kroenig 2009). In short, the French Parliament is one of the weakest in
Europe in general, while specifically in European matters it is near the
average. It can therefore be distinguished from many other assemblies, as
comparative literature has established that the acquisition of EU preroga-
tives usually reflected the domestic constitutional balances (Karlas 2012;
Raunio 2005; Winzen 2017).
It is difficult to distinguish to what extent this gap is due to national or
European factors. On the one hand, constitutional blocks and restrictions
on domestic subjects may have bolstered MPs’ motivation to claim
prerogatives in European matters. Additionally, the European route con-
stitutes a rare possibility for the executive branch to demonstrate its will-
ingness to modernise the Fifth Republic. Indeed, as we will consider in the
following section, European adaptation is still restricted in several ways.
The Europeanisation of French Parliament was therefore even more
acceptable to the executive branch in that it did not threaten the latter’s
pre-eminence in European matters. The competition between both
Another random document with
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again, I shall adopt khaki breeches, and send my petticoats by
express to our destination. This reminds me that I have not spoken
of our trunks. Nine out of ten people that we have met in San
Francisco have asked, “What became of your trunks, or didn’t you
have any?” Before leaving New York we sent, collect, by American
Railway Express, a large wardrobe trunk, the usual steamer trunk,
and a French hat-box to San Francisco, “Hold until claimed.” These
were held for seven weeks, and the total expense, delivered to our
hotel, was $45.50—not at all bad.
No matter of what material your clothes are made, a long motor
trip ruins them. It is a large expense to get them pressed, and a
small electric iron answers the purpose. It takes up but little space—
every small hotel is equipped with electricity—and you appear sans
creases and wrinkles. Don’t do as one friend did, who put it in her
traveling case with her bottles. One good bump did the business,
and when she took it out “the mess of tooth-powder, cold cream,
sunburn lotion, and broken glass was enough to spoil my trip.” Her
stock was soon replenished. In every small town across the
continent, without one exception, we found the Rexall drugs and
articles for sale; even when the town failed to boast of a ten-cent
store, Dr. Rexall was on hand. It struck us as very remarkable, and
was most convenient many times.
The one article that I regretted not bringing was a good camera.
When all our friends said, “Of course, you will take a camera,” my
husband replied, that he wouldn’t be bothered with one; “they are a
perfect nuisance.” That may be true, and the camera did not go
touring; but some incidents that occurred cannot be adequately
pictured in words—one in particular, our encounter with bears! Of
this I shall speak later.
And now, of the car! I wished my husband, who had all the care
of the car, to write his chapter. “Every man knows what to take, and
how to care for his car, and there is no use giving any advice.”
Perhaps he will—he has!
BY T. G. M. (UNDER PROTEST)
August 6th and 7th we spent in St. Paul, at the first-class St.
Paul Hotel—a perfect joy! Our stay here was filled with interest. The
capitol building is a noble pile. Summit Avenue boasts of many
beautiful homes, but the business life is fast overtaking it.
Minneapolis is such a close neighbor that we could not tell where
one city began and the other left off. Here cousins took us to the
Athletic Club for lunch, in as beautiful a café as we have seen. A
bounteous luncheon was served for sixty cents that we would have
paid at least two dollars for in New York. This was our last feast on
broiled whitefish. As we were all chatting over our trip, a crash as of
broken china brought us to a pause. “What in Heaven’s name is
that?” we exclaimed. “Oh, just the boys in the ‘training’ café, having a
hurry-up lunch,” laughed our host. On the many floors men were
spending their noon-hour exercising and keeping themselves fit.
We drove out to the famous summer resort, Lake Minnetonka,
picturesque and edged with lovely summer homes. Near by were the
Minnehaha Falls, known to all Longfellow lovers, and the Fort
Snelling reservation, where the sturdy pioneers defended their lives
in the old round tower and block-house. By far the most attractive
spot we visited was Christmas Lake, seventeen miles out of town,
where the Radisson Inn nestles in the woods, quite hidden from the
highway. No private villa could be more lovely. In the large dining-
room, which was really a sun-parlor, each table had its own color-
scheme, with vines and wild flowers. Plants, ferns, vines, and flowers
growing everywhere in the most original baskets and boxes made of
twigs, bark, or moss. We all stood exclaiming, like a lot of children,
“Isn’t it adorable?”—“Oh, my dear, do look at this Indian
rug!”—“Where did they get this willow furniture?”—“Altman never
had such exquisite cretonnes!”—“Let’s give up the trip and stop
here!”—and so on. We were told that the table was in keeping with
the house, and that the place was full all season. This was another
high spot on the trip.
Still another pleasure was in store for us—we were to play golf
and dine at the Town and City Club. The club is situated between the
two cities, near the banks of the Mississippi River. We drove past
before we realized that it was not a private estate. Stopping a young
man, we asked where the club was. “Got me stuck, Missis; never
heard of it.” A small boy of seven came up, and, with a withering
glance which took us all in, waved his arm, saying, “Right before
your eyes!” We drove through lovely grounds to the club-house.
Such gorgeous old trees!—hedges that made you think of
Devonshire, lawns like velvet, and a riot of color in the beds and
borders—every flowering shrub and plant you could dream of. Of
course, the links were fine, and the twilight lasted until nearly nine
o’clock. We had ordered dinner in advance; so by a quarter to nine
we were seated at our table, with faultless appointments, enjoying
such a good dinner, and watching the sky-line of Minneapolis, with
its church spires and towering buildings, fade in the afterglow of the
sunset. Not one of us spoke as the twilight deepened and the stars
came out; we went out on the lawn and saw the new harvest moon
through the trees—a bit of Nature’s fairyland, the memory of which
will always stay with us.
Here we left the Yellowstone Trail and followed the National
Parks Highway north to Fargo, North Dakota, 265 miles; winding in
and out over good roads through a myriad of lakes—ten thousand,
we were told—in Minnesota. Every mile of the way, as far as the eye
could see, were acres of potatoes, corn, and wheat, fertile and
green. If you want to visualize Frank Norris’s books and understand
how we can feed starving Europe, motor through this state. It was
harvest-time. Great tractors were snorting like live creatures,
hundreds of men on the big ranches were “bringing in the sheaves,”
the country was alive with action, and the world was to reap the
benefit of the toil and endless energy of these sturdy men. You have
never seen our country until you have traveled through this great
grain-belt. Every small town had two or three grain elevators. There
were beautiful fields of alfalfa, a mass of bloom with its bluish purple
flower as sweet as honey. As we came near these fields, the air was
always cool. We couldn’t account for it; but it is a strange fact that
the air is considerably cooler when you near an alfalfa field. Can you
see the picture? Lakes on every side, as blue as great sapphires,
sparkling in the sun, the road lined with the wild sunflowers, often
forming a golden hedge on either side for miles, the blue mass of
color of the alfalfa fields, and above it the green corn and golden
wheat. The magpies were in flocks, and the sea-gulls were skimming
over the inland lakes, hundreds of miles from any large body of
water, and hundreds more of them were resting on the shores.
Strange, was it not? Through the West we have noted the absence
of many birds, especially in Montana, Idaho, Utah, and Nevada. But
here the crops were so abundant that the little songsters “had first
whack at the grain,” as my husband remarked. He was the bird-man
of the party, and when he was driving at a top-notch speed or turning
a hairpin curve he would calmly ask, “Did you girls see that blue
heron?”
Alexandria, and the hotel of the same name, were comfortable
beyond our hopes. The next day we passed through Fergus Falls,
where the cyclone of June 22d had demolished the better part of the
town. It had been a thriving, attractive place in the heart of the grain-
belt, with fine buildings and pretty homes. Now, less than two months
later, the wreck and débris were appalling. The wind had wrought
strange sights. We saw a sewing-machine in the top of a neighbor’s
tree, festooned with bedding, petticoats, and a bird-cage. Houses
were turned over as if they had been toys; others were crushed to
kindling. Here a small tree or a chicken-coop would be intact, and a
building five feet away would be demolished. We stopped off for
lunch in a small café in the part of the town that had escaped the
gale. The people were talking of nothing else. The whole countryside
had driven in to see it, to take the sufferers home, or to render
assistance. The waitress paid no attention to our order—just talked.
“Why, lady, it was the awfullest thing you ever heard tell on! One
moment we were all sitting at our work, and then we heard a roar like
a mad bull, or thunder, and the sky got so black that you couldn’t see
across that counter. Windows smashed in, and this house shook like
jelly. Folks were blown down that street like old newspapers.
Scared? My Gawd! we just crawled under the counter and prayed!
The door was blown in and the front window smashed. A little kid
was blown across that street and straight through that broken glass.
My maw’s house was shook to pieces. Maw was cookin’, and she
and the stove went off together. Paw was feedin’ the cattle; when we
found him he was lyin’ in the next lot with a cow a-lyin’ on top of him
and a milkpail a-coverin’ of his head. Most everyone got cut by the
glass or broke an arm or leg, tryin’ to hold on to somethin’. The piany
in the schoolhouse was took up and planted in a street two blocks
away not hurt a bit. It sounds just beautiful now. Some folks I know
had their two cats and three dogs killed, and the canary was a-
singin’ like mad when they found the house in the end of the garden.
The wire fences were the worst; they just wound themselves up like
yarn.” Many others told us similar weird tales. We left that town,
already being rebuilt, a sober party.
“I wonder what would happen to us if we should meet such a
cyclone,” said Toodles.
“I think we would ‘blow in’ to lunch with our friends in Boston,”
mused the bird-man.
He has given me this list of birds that we saw through the West:
Mudhens, bluebirds, bluejays, robins, ospreys, cranes, loons, terns,
the Canada goose, song-sparrows, meadowlarks, hawks, wild
swans, woodpeckers, orioles, wild doves, and others. Later we saw
sagehens and eagles.
VIII
MILLIONS OF GRASSHOPPERS
We had wired to our cousins, Mr. and Mrs. H., of Fargo, to make
a reservation for our party, which they did at the Gardner Hotel. We
found a big comfortable hotel, with large rooms, good table, and
excellent service. We enjoyed our “stop off” of two days here more
than in any other city on our trip. Fargo spells hospitality and “pep.”
Our greeting was, “What can we do for you?”
“Find the Packard service station, give us some home-cooking,
and let us play golf and tennis.”
“There are only two Packard cars in town, but the manager of
the garage owns one and can help you out.”
He did—kind, obliging person! Our second request was granted
to the full. Never did fried chicken and creamed potatoes covered
with gravy taste so good. We went back the next day and finished up
the rest of the chicken. After driving about this charming “up-to-
tomorrow” Western city, we went out to the Country Club and the
links, and met many truly delightful people.
Western people in the same walk of life as your friends at home
are traveled, cultured, broad-minded, most interesting people. I was
especially impressed by the women. They think for themselves on
the public questions of the hour, and voice their opinions in no
uncertain terms. As Philip Gibbs said in his article in Harper’s
(“Some People I met in America”), “Desperately earnest about the
problems of Peace, intrigued to the point of passion about the policy
of President Wilson, divided hopelessly in ideals and convictions, so
that husbands and wives had to declare a No Man’s Land between
their conflicting views.” It is so in our family. My brother has
expressed it aptly: “President Wilson is a state of mind. You are all
for him, or not at all.” But Heaven help me to keep politics out of this
peaceful narrative!
We found many golfers ahead of us. Mrs. W., the chairman of
the house committee, and especial hostess of the day, played with
us. She played, as all Western women enter into everything, with
enthusiasm. The course was flat, easy, and of nine holes.
But the grasshoppers! I had seen plenty of them on the trip while
going through the farming country. They would jump into the car,
take a ride on the hood or windshield, get on your veil or down your
neck, or collect in family parties on the luggage or in your lap; but
that was utter isolation compared to the crop on those links. The
seventeen-year locust had nothing on these grasshoppers! On the
fairway, when you hit your ball, hundreds would fly up in a cloud and
your ball was lost to sight. You walked on a carpet of them. It
reminded you of “the slaughter of the innocents.” Your clothes were
covered with them. When I sat down at the third tee, I heard a
crunching noise, unlike anything I ever experienced. Mrs. W. called
out—alas! too late—“Oh, you mustn’t sit down until you shake the
grasshoppers out of your skirts. You will ruin your clothes.” That
white satin skirt has been boiled, parboiled, dry-cleaned, and hung in
the sun, but the back looks bilious and pea-green in spots! When I
got back to the hotel, I found them inside of my blouse and under-
linen, and even in my hair and shoes. It is fortunate that they did not
bite, or someone else would be writing this tale.
After real afternoon tea, with toast, hot biscuits, and sandwiches
(not our ice-cream cones), we drove back to the city and dined and
talked until the lights were put out in the hotel and the elevator man
had gone to sleep. We were told of the fine roads through North
Dakota, “but not in bad weather; then you will have to reckon with
the gumbo.” “Gumbo” is described by Webster as “soup, composed
of okra, tomatoes, etc.” But that learned gentleman never drove after
a rainstorm in North Dakota.
The next morning the sky looked threatening, but we started out
for Jamestown, one hundred miles away. All went well until noon,
when a gentle drizzle set in, and we put up the top, stopped under a
big tree, had our lunch, and waited until the supposed shower was
over. Farther west it had poured; we noticed that the cars coming in
were covered with mud, and concluded that they had come over
country roads. Surely not the National Parks Highway! So down went
the top, and off we started in a wet atmosphere, but not really
raining. The chains had not been disturbed since they were
comfortably stowed away on leaving New York. One man advised us
to put them on, but with a superior don’t-believe-we-will-need-them
air we left our tree shelter. He called out after us, “Say, strangers,
you don’t know what you all are getting into.” We didn’t, but we jolly
soon found out! In ten minutes we had met gumbo, and were sliding,
swirling, floundering about in a sea of mud! I will try to describe it. A
perfectly solid (apparently) clay road can become as soft as melted
butter in an hour. Try to picture a narrow road, with deep ditches, and
just one track of ruts, covered with flypaper, vaseline, wet soap,
molasses candy (hot and underdone), mire, and any other soft,
sticky, slippery, hellish mess that could be mixed—and even that
would not be gumbo!
“Thank God for the ruts!” we devoutedly exclaimed. If you once
got out of the ruts, your car acted as if it were drunk. It slid,
zigzagged, slithered, first headed for one ditch, and then slewed
across the road. It acted as if bewitched. We had passed several
cars abandoned in the ditch, and those ahead of us, even with
chains on, were doing a new version of a fox trot. The road grew
worse, the mire deeper. The ruts were now so deep that we just
crawled along, and, to prevent getting stalled, we pulled out of them.
In a shorter time than it takes to write it, our left front wheel was
down in the ditch and the car lying across the road, and stuck fast.
That was all that prevented us from being ditched. There we were,
unable to move. We had not tried to walk in gumbo. That was an
added experience. All three of us got out to see what could be done.
It would be impossible to jack the car up there and put on the chains;
the jack would have sunk out of sight. And no car could pass us.
Your feet stuck in the gumbo so that when you pulled up one foot a
mass of mire as large as a market-basket stuck to it, or your shoe
came off, and you frantically slid and floundered around until you got
it on again. We thought of a dozen clever things to do, if we could
only have walked. There was a farmhouse half a mile ahead where
no doubt we could have hired a team to pull us out. But how could
we get there? My sympathies are all with the fly caught on sticky
flypaper! In a short time, a Dodge car came up back of us, a man
driving it, with his wife, his son, a boy of fifteen, and a small girl.
Being a light car in comparison, and having chains on, they fared
better; but they could not pass. They offered to pull us back onto the
road. Fortunately we had brought a wire cable with us. This was
attached to both cars, and then both tried to back. Did we budge? No
such luck! All hands got to work, sliding around like drunken sailors,
and filled in back of our wheels with stones, sticks, cornstalks, and
dry grass. After being stuck there just one hour, we got back onto the
road and into the ruts, and slowly we crawled up to the top of a hill,
where some guiding angel had scattered ashes and sand. We got to
a dry, grassy spot, where a sadder and wiser driver put on the
chains. How did we get there, Toodles and I? Those blessed Dodge
people invited us to stand on their running-boards while they crawled
up the hill. Later we overtook them having tire troubles, and we were
glad to be able to return their kindness. The next lovely job was to
clean our shoes. Nothing can stick worse than gumbo, and we had
been soaked in it. Needless to say that our shoes were ruined, but
we were lucky it was not the car.
So, with care, and crawling about five miles an hour, still slipping
and sliding like eels, we covered the forty miles into Jamestown. The
hotel dining-room was closed, and we had supper in a Chinese
restaurant, then went to have our shoes cleaned in what had been
before July 1st a typical Western saloon. It was filled with miners and
cowboys playing billiards, and a villainous automatic piano playing
rag-time. We sat up in the chairs while a “China-boy” dug at the
gumbo, now hard as stone. One Westerner stood there taking us all
in, and drawled, “You folks must have struck gumbo.” We had; but
then again—“It might have been worse.”
IX