Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Or visit us online at
us.macmillan.com/newslettersignup
Greta did not wait for the beast’s return. Down the mountain she
tore, bare feet slapping on pine needles and moss, satchel thudding
against her hip. She scrabbled over a bank of twisted roots. Fell.
Rose. Fell again. Thought fleetingly of her shoes, back at the base of
the tree. There would be no returning for them now. With every step
she heard the bear behind her, felt its hot breath between her
shoulder blades. Vaulting over the mossy flank of a fallen oak she
glimpsed—in the timeless, weightless eternity of flight—a child,
tucked between wood and earth, its upturned eyes a violent blue.
Then she was falling.
“Oomph.”
The angle of the world was all wrong: uphill was down, the sky
was not in its accustomed place, and there was dirt where air should
have been. Greta coughed and wheezed, vaguely aware that the
child was screaming.
“S-stop,” she spluttered into the dirt. “Be quiet.”
The child shrieked on. Greta shoved herself up. “Stop it, or you
will bring the very Devil down upon us both!”
The girl’s mouth snapped shut.
“Thank you.” Greta took in the child’s face, the angry-looking
scars marring her cheek and neck. This was Jochem Winter’s
youngest daughter, Brigitta, her scars the result of a hearthside
accident when she was little more than a babe. Greta raised a
warning hand in the child’s direction, then rose unsteadily. The
mountainside was peaceful in her wake, fir and spruce, pine and
beech standing to calm attention. A wren tittered and its mate
answered. A child’s inquisitive voice drifted up from the fields far
below, followed by a woman’s faint reply.
There was no sign of the black bear.
“By all the stars.” Greta slumped back against the tree. Her jaw
trembled and her words jumped and stuttered, but she felt an
unreasonable urge to laugh. Brigitta Winter looked on, blue eyes
wide with fear. Greta did laugh then, a wild, incongruous cackle that,
when echoed back to her by the forest, sounded unsettlingly like a
sob. She glanced at the child and forced herself to calm.
“What are you doing so far from the village, Brigitta? Are you
lost?”
“Yes. My father is down in his fields,” the girl said, hugging
herself. “He’ll miss me, soon enough, and come to find me.”
Brigitta was not the sort of child to wander the forest alone. Her
family lived in a fine house near the Marktplatz, with two servants
and a cook. At the same age, Greta could have skimmed lightly up a
tree to see the shape of the land. She could build a fire and find
water. She would never have left the house without her tinderbox
and knife, and a cautionary store of nuts or berries in her pocket.
You learn to be careful when you have been lost.
“Your father may not come for you,” she said gently. “No doubt
he’s busy with the planting. I can take you to him, though.” She
offered her hand. “Here, let me help you up—”
“Don’t touch me!” Brigitta cried.
Greta drew back as though she had been burned. She had
known Brigitta her whole life. Could recall her as a baby, sweet and
plump, eager for gingerbread on market days. Now her face was
hard with mistrust.
“I know it can be frightening here when you’re alone,” Greta said
warily. “But I promise you, Brigitta, no harm shall come to you.” She
glanced back up the slope, half expecting the bear to loom once
more into sight. “That is, if you do exactly as I say.”
The child made no reply. She simply laid her head upon her
knees and began to cry, great wretched sobs that shook her entire
body.
“Did you know, Brigitta,” Greta said, casting another careful
glance up the mountain, “that when I was a girl—not much younger
than you are now—I became lost in the woods. I was so frightened.
I would have given anything for someone kind to come along and
help me.”
Brigitta stilled. She raised her head slightly, peeking at Greta over
her tear-dampened skirt. “Is that—is that when you found the little
house? Made of gingerbread?”
“Brigitta? Where are you?”
“That’s my sister,” Brigitta said, scrambling to her feet and wiping
her cheeks. “Papa must have sent her to look for me. I’m here,
Ingrid!”
Part of Greta wanted to tell both Ingrid and Brigitta to quiet
themselves, lest the bear hear. The rest of her was lost, adrift in
memory. I will eat a piece of the roof, and you can eat the window…
Ingrid Winter appeared between the trees, her skirts held
carefully off the ground, her golden hair neat beneath a spotless
coif. Behind her, glimpses of the valley dozing below, the shining
river, the tiny reddish blobs that were grazing cattle. And above
them, the steep, forested face of the opposing mountain. “What are
you doing up here, Brigitta? Papa said he told you not to leave the
river!”
Brigitta hung her head. “I was looking for blue stars.”
“Whatever were you thinking? You know it’s not safe.”
“Not safe?” Greta echoed, rising.
“You haven’t heard, then?” Ingrid’s sharp blue gaze flicked over
Greta’s bare head and disheveled clothes. “Everyone’s been talking
about it. Two cutters were found dead in the forest near Hornberg,
their chests laid open, their…” She glanced at Brigitta. “There are
soldiers about. On their way back to France, Papa says, or perhaps
Bavaria. Brigitta knows better than to wander off.”
Greta could not help but throw another nervous glance over the
slope. A year and a half had passed since the war finally ended. For
thirty long years Württemberg had suffered along with the rest of
the Empire. Armies had passed back and forth across the Black
Forest from France and Bavaria, marauding, burning and looting.
They were just one claw of the great armed beast wielded by the
Catholic emperor as he warred against the Protestant allies,
Württemberg among them. Lindenfeld, at the farthest corner of
Württemberg, tucked away in the mountains, had avoided the worst
of the chaos. Even so, bands of foraging soldiers had still found their
way into the valley. Ragged and starving, they had attacked the
villages, taking what they could carry and hurting or burning what
they could not. Taxes had been raised and raised again to pay the
war tax, to buy safety from the closest army or the French garrison
in the next valley. The promised peace had been a blessing, but its
coming was slow. Bands of soldiers, lone deserters, and those who
had lost their own homes in the war were still known to raid villages
like Lindenfeld.
“I told you,” Brigitta was saying, “I was looking for blue stars!”
“All the way up here?”
“I got lost,” Brigitta admitted. “Fräulein Rosenthal found me.”
“Luckily for you. But why were you shouting at her? I could hear
you clear as day.”
“I thought…” Brigitta twisted one leather-clad toe in the pine
needles.
“Yes?”
“I thought …she was going to eat me.”
“What?” Greta and Ingrid said, as one.
“You frightened me so, when you flew over the log like that,”
Brigitta told Greta in a rush. “Your hair was wild and your face was
white, and you said the Devil was coming.…”
Ingrid sneered. “What a thing to say, Brigitta!”
“What? Everyone knows witches eat children.”
Witch. The word betokened many things, none of them good.
“They can change their shape, too,” Brigitta said. “Bats, cats,
owls, foxes …I don’t know why you’re laughing, Ingrid. It was you
who said Fräulein Rosenthal cursed Herr Drescher’s field. And that—”
“Hush, Brigitta!”
“—she brought down a storm once, and ruined the harvest.”
“Brigitta!” Ingrid’s cheeks burned.
“I heard you speaking to Frau Lutz of it just last week,” the girl
continued. “She said that when Fräulein Rosenthal was a little girl,
she killed an old woman.” Brigitta squinted up at Greta, the scars on
her cheek shining with the memory of long-ago flame. “Frau Lutz
said you pushed that old woman into an oven full of fire and burnt
her up. She said it made you strange.”
Greta had always suspected that the village women spoke of her
when she was not there to hear them. Gathered together like that,
the shreds of her past were …worrying. Especially when the only
real link to that time was at this moment laid open on her
workbench, in plain sight of anyone who happened to peer through
the window. The witch’s book, Hans called it, among other troubling
names. Thoughtless to leave it lying there like that. She had seen
women—good, kind women—accused of witchery for possessing far
less.
“Is it true?” Brigitta asked.
Greta forced herself to meet the girl’s eyes. In truth, I cannot
remember. It was a long time ago and I was very young. These were
the words she would have uttered, were she a braver soul. The
temptation to defend herself, to dispel the lies the village women
shared like eggs and cabbages, burned her tongue. But there was
nothing she could say. For all she knew she had killed the old
woman. No, not just killed. Burned.
“And was the house made of gingerbread?” Brigitta asked. “Frau
Lutz said the house was made of gingerbread.”
No. It was made of wood and stone, like any other.
“I thought you were a sensible girl, Brigitta,” Greta managed. “All
this talk of storms and gingerbread houses, and eating children. I
didn’t know you believed in such nonsense.”
“Everyone knows there are witches,” Ingrid said, sharp. “And you
cannot blame the child for saying such things when you roam the
forest as you do, Greta, all alone and wild. You aren’t even wearing
shoes.”
Greta scrunched her bare toes beneath her skirts.
“Perhaps Greta’s hair frightened you, Brigitta,” Ingrid said. “Red is
the Devil’s color, after all.”
Greta raised a hand to her hair. It had come loose from its pins,
rambling down her back.
“My hair isn’t red,” she said, poking ineffectually at it. It had
always been a curse, her hair. If she stood in the shade it seemed
plain enough, innocent and brownish. But in the light russet and
bronze conspired to be noticed.
“Yes, it is,” Brigitta said, not unkindly.
Greta did not trust herself to speak. She had realized, with a
sinking heart, that her hair ribbon, a fine strip of lavender linen
embroidered with a trail of ivy, was also lost. It had belonged to her
mother.
Ingrid led her sister away. “Come, Brigitta. We’d best get back to
Papa.”
“That wasn’t very kind.” Brigitta’s voice floated back. “Especially
when she’ll be leaving Lindenfeld soon.”
“Leaving? Whatever do you mean?”
“I heard Father say Hans Rosenthal lost all his money throwing
bones. He will not be able to repay what he borrowed from Herr
Hueber and will have to give up his holding. Look! Blue stars!” She
scampered through the trees, stopping before a carpet of violet-blue
flowers, their petals bowed like wives at prayer. “Aren’t they lovely?”
Greta hurried after the sisters. “Wait …what did your father say,
Brigitta?”
“He said he will rent your land once your brother loses it.”
“When did you hear this?” Ingrid, too, was frowning. “There must
be some mistake.”
“See how upset my sister is?” Brigitta smirked. “She thinks your
brother very handsome, you know. She sits in wait for him in the
Marktplatz, so he can happen upon her unexpectedly.”
“Brigitta!”
Ordinarily Greta would have smiled at this; women had always
admired Hans’s golden curls. “Did your father say anything else?”
“Only that it’s to be settled on May Day.”
The tale had the clear shine of truth to it. It was no secret that
others coveted the Rosenthals’ holding, and that of them all Jochem
Winter had ever been the most persistent. And debts were often
reckoned on May Day, struck over a cup of beer and a merry dance
with another man’s wife. But May Day fell after Walpurgis Night—in
three days’ time.
“You’re certain it was May Day, Brigitta?”
“Yes. That’s when Herr Hueber wants his money.” Brigitta
grasped a handful of blue stars and prepared to yank.
“Don’t do it like that,” Greta warned, distracted. “The juice is
poisonous.”
“Poisonous? But they’re so beautiful!”
“That doesn’t mean they won’t hurt you.” Greta sliced the stalks
neatly with her knife, wincing at the pain in her wounded hand.
“Some of the loveliest flowers in the forest are the most dangerous.
Here; try not to touch the stems.”
“What about those white ones there?”
“They’re just snowdrops. How much does Hans owe Herr Hueber,
Brigitta? Did your father say?”
“No. Can you cut me some snowdrops, please?”
Ingrid stamped her foot. “Brigitta, come along!”
Greta cut the snowdrops, her mind already back at the house,
counting the baskets of gingerbread stacked neatly for Walpurgis.
She hated the festival, always had. There had been years during the
war when the festivities had not gone ahead, and though she had
pretended disappointment she had secretly been relieved. The
crowds, the noise, the costumed witches hideous in the alleyways,
and everywhere fire. But there was no avoiding it—not with the coin
her gingerbread made there. She had hoped the festival would earn
enough to pay her taxes and part of the year’s rent, with a little left
over. She had planned to buy linen for a new shift; both of hers were
wearing thin. Hans needed a new coat, too, despite Greta’s careful
patching.
“Brigitta? Are you sure your father didn’t say how much?”
“Yes. But he did say it will be for the best. He’s going to run pigs
on your land, he says, when the baron signs the holding over to him.
Better that than wasting like it is now.” She plucked the snowdrops
from Greta’s grasp and stroked one sad, white petal. “Perhaps it
would be different if you had a husband, but he says you’ll never
have one because you have no dowry. Not that it matters. After all,
no one wants to marry a witch.”
2
The Witch’s Book
It was an innocent enough spell, a harmless cast to bestow
beauty upon a longed-for child. But the viscountess was young
and innocent. She did not see that the wind that day was ill-
omened, or that the moon was deep into its waning turn. No
sooner had the words left her lips than the little spell twisted
and thrummed in her bloodred womb.
Witches always have red hair. It’s the Devil’s color.
Greta’s coif was ruined, the linen stained a watery crimson as
though her hair had seeped into the cloth. Dirt smeared her bodice.
Her overskirt had ripped during her flight down the mountain, and
there was blood on her apron. She knelt in the shallows near the
falls in her shift and petticoat, scrubbing at her clothes with crushed
soapwort until her fingers were red with cold. It was only when the
cut on her hand began to bleed again, threatening to undo her hard
work, that she stopped to hang her clothes on the rocks.
The Wolf River fell no less than seven times as it cascaded down
to join the Schnee. Water grumbled and rushed above and below,
the heavy roar of it reverberating through the forest. There were
pools tucked beneath pools, secret places where one could float on
one’s back and watch the clouds, or wash one’s hair with only the
birds for company. Greta had done just that countless times and yet
now, as she regarded her reflection in the pool, she felt far from
peaceful. Or clean. She unlaced her stays and threw them onto the
rocks, then seized the soapy leaves and plunged into the water, skin
goosing with cold, shift and petticoat foaming around her. She
scoured the last of the blood and dirt from her skin, soaped her hair
and rinsed it clean. Soaped it again and again, combing the lengths
with her fingers until she was out of breath. Still, her reflection
wavered back at her, unchanged.
Blood. Dirt. Tears. If only other things could scrub away as easily.
At last she waded back to the bank, reaching it in time to see her
stays slip from their rocky moorings and—buoyed by the stiffened
reeds giving them their shape—sail gracefully over the falls.
“For the stars’ sake…”
She slid down the steep path, only to see the stays reach the
edge of the pool below and drop tantalizingly out of sight. Greta
slipped after them, soaking and shivering, damp ferns tugging at her
ankles. She twisted through a narrow fall of rocks—and slithered to
an abrupt halt.
There was a man climbing the path from the pool below.
A glance was all it took for Greta to know that he was not of
Lindenfeld, nor any other village in the valley. Ingrid Winter’s talk of
passing soldiers flared in her mind. She had lived through the war.
Had seen what careless violence soldiers could inflict when they had
a mind to. She wondered how far she would get were she to run.
There was an old hut not far from where she stood. Her father had
used to shelter there when he was out cutting and caught in bad
weather. It was rough, but it had a door.
The man saw her, stopped. “Don’t be afraid,” he said, raising a
palm. “I mean you no harm.”
His voice hinted of Tyrol, the land of mountains to the south. No
soldier she had ever known had hailed from there. Even so she
scanned the forest, the rocks below, the water. He might not be
alone. Soldiers, even those whose regiments had been disbanded,
rarely were. She saw nothing but a puddle of belongings in the
ferns: some clothes, a bow and a sword, a rolled blanket. A little
cook pot, pitted and scratched with age, and a hunting horn of
gleaming bone. No telltale soldier’s buffcoat, no bandolier or musket.
“You see?” the man said. “No harm, I swear. I came only to give
you this.”
He was holding her stays.
A burst of heat rose in Greta’s cheeks. She hugged herself,
horribly aware of her dripping hair, her damp skin beneath clinging
linen. He was aware of them, too. She knew it by the way he did not
look at her.
“I—thank you.” She took the sodden garment from him,
wondering if it was possible to die of shame. The whit whit of a
wood lark was loud against the mutter of the falls.
“Forgive me,” he said. “It was not my intention to…” He gestured
vaguely, encompassing the awkwardness of the moment, and his
lamentable part in it. Water gleamed in his dark hair. His feet,
beneath damp black hose, were bare. Like her, he had been bathing.
Like her, he had thought himself alone.
Greta risked a longer glance. He was taller than most; as tall as
her uncle, Rob Mueller. His complexion was the bronze of one who
spends much of his time out of doors, and his jaw looked as though
it had not felt a razor for many days. But he was straight of nose,
and his eyes, beneath rather heavy black brows, were blue. Or
green. They were creased with worry. Despite her embarrassment,
Greta was sorry for him.
“I won’t speak of this to anyone,” she said, “if you will do the
same.”
The corner of his mouth rose. “Agreed.” His shirt was torn
beneath his ribs, the edges of the cloth washed through with pinkish
blood.
“You’re hurt,” she said, pointing.
His gaze flicked over the cut on her hand, bleeding again after
her scrabble down the falls, and back to her face. “So are you.”
She should turn, go, be away. Instead she lingered, her stays
dripping mournfully on the path.
“Wait here,” he said, and slipped lithely down the path to where
his belongings lay. He returned a moment later with a cloak. “Please
take it.”
“I couldn’t—”
“Please.”
Grateful, Greta bundled herself into the thick, greenish-grey
wool. “My brother’s house lies along that path,” she said, gesturing
to the slope above. “I will keep it for you there.”
He nodded. “Good day, then.”
Were they green, or blue, his eyes?
“Good day.”
When he was gone, Greta collected her wet clothes and sopped
her way homeward. The stranger’s cloak was thick and fine. It
carried his scent: pine needles, woodsmoke and the not-unpleasant
saltiness of his skin. She wondered where he had come from. Not
Freiburg or Tübingen, surely; he was of the woods: he carried it with
him, moss and water and earth.
He was still in her thoughts when she arrived at the house.
Unlike the dwellings in the village, which stood in ordered rows, the
Rosenthal home was a settling of centuries-old oak that seemed to
have sprouted into existence, then rambled across the clearing like
ground ivy. In winter, snow coated the quirks in the sloping shingled
roof, while in the spring the ancient apple tree near the garden
frothed with blossoms. Greta hung her wet clothes from the tree’s
gnarled branches. Could it really be true? Could Hans have gambled,
lost, and borrowed so much that he had risked their home?
Inside, she hung the stranger’s cloak and her satchel near the
door and set the honeycomb to drain, then gazed around the open
room, trying to see it as her brother might. It was furnished
sparsely: her father’s old chair, two long benches at the table. A
scuffed clothes chest, a wide workbench lined with resting dough,
baking trays and gingerbread molds. Aside from the molds, there
was nothing of particular worth there. But Greta’s mother had woven
the rugs covering the floor, and her father had crafted the
workbench. Generations of Rosenthal women had scrubbed the table
to a comforting gloss, while the squat stone oven—the heart of the
house—had delivered hundreds, no, thousands of pieces of
gingerbread over the years. Many times, the sweet golden bread had
been all that stood between Hans and Greta, and starvation.
Was it all truly lost on the roll of a carved knucklebone?
…you took your time.
The voice was the barest whisper in the back of Greta’s mind,
lisping and female, so soft she might have missed hearing it
altogether had she not expected it. She crossed the room. The book
lay where she had left it that morning on the workbench,
surrounded by the debris of a half-finished bake.
…how long does it take to cut honeycomb? it asked.
“I’m sorry,” Greta said. She thought of the strange sickness that
had come over her in the beech tree. The bear, and the old rhyme
her fear had awoken. How to explain it all?
“I had some trouble,” she said simply. The book would ask
questions—it always did—and there was no time for that. The
possibility that Brigitta’s final words were true—that Hans had indeed
gone and lost their home, as she had always feared he would—filled
her with a hurrying fear. She needed to speak to her brother.
…I can see that, the book said. Fall in the river, did you?
“You could say that.”
…no shoes? You look like a hedge whore, dearie.
Ordinarily, Greta paid no mind to the book when it said such
things. But today, with the memory of her meeting with Ingrid and
Brigitta still fresh in her mind, the barb stung.
“At least I have feet,” she said, passing beneath the ladder
leading to the sleeping loft. Hans had draped a shirt carelessly over
a rung and its sleeve brushed her cheek. She swiped it irritably away
and pushed aside the curtain separating her own small space from
the rest of the house. A cracked washbasin, a little pot filled with
wilting snowdrops, a bunch of dried lavender hanging above the
narrow bed.
She shrugged out of her wet things and reached for the fresh
clothes—dry shift and stays, nut-brown skirt and undyed bodice and
sleeves—hanging neatly on a row of hooks. She dressed quickly,
coiling up her wet hair and pinning it beneath a clean coif. Less like
a hedge whore, though still shoeless. She would have to take small
steps and hope her skirts hid her bare feet.
…you’re not going out again, are you? the book asked peevishly
as Greta emerged.
“I have to go down to the mill.”
…we’ve work to do. Or did you fail to notice the mess you’ve left?
Pages fluttered as though touched by a breeze.
“We’ll finish when I get back,” Greta told it. “I’m sorry. Something
has happened. I have to find Hans—”
…ah, Hans, is it? What’s the useless fool done now, then?
“I’ll explain everything when I get back.” She bit her lip. “I’m
afraid I’ll have to put you away before I go. We can’t risk anyone
seeing you.”
…you’ve just realized? The book cackled, and for an instant Greta
saw the forest crone bent low over its pages, her face harsh with
oven-glow as she bickered with someone who was not there. At the
memory the scrawling and ink splotches covering the book’s open
pages—take a quart of honey and sethe it and skime it clene …beat
finely also the whitest Sugar you can get …strewe fine ginger both
above and beneathe—took on a more sinister cast.
She closed the book with a floury whump; she had learned long
ago not to think upon its origins, or of the person who had taught
her to decipher its pages. After all, the book could not help who had
once owned it, could it? It was just a book: bound in the usual way,
in soft leather, greyish-smooth with age. It was, however, slightly
warm, in the way a person is warm: a disconcerting quality in a
book, and one Greta managed, with much practice, to ignore. On
this day, however—everyone knows there are witches—she could not
help but shiver with distaste as she slid it into an empty garner.
…no need to be so rough!
“I’m sorry,” she said guiltily. “It’s just …we can’t be too careful.”
She slapped the lid into place and left the house, the book’s
indignant voice—…after all I’ve done for you!—trailing behind her.
There would be a reckoning later, she had no doubt—the book hated
to be shut away—but she couldn’t help that. She had to find Hans.
And, she knew from experience, it was not likely to be easy.
During the stay of the Mission in Fas, the Sultan invited its
members to be present at a grand ‘lab-el-barod’ in which he
personally intended taking part; this function to be preceded by a
picnic breakfast provided for his guests in one of the royal gardens
about two miles from the town; and in accordance with this invitation
the members of the Mission and two of the ladies were present at
the ‘lab-el-barod’ conducted by the Sultan in person.
The morning had been spent by the party in one of the beautiful
royal gardens in the environs of Fas, where the Sultan had ordered
luncheon to be served. As this picnic and the subsequent ‘lab-el-
barod’ were regarded in a semi-official light, the Mission was
escorted by the Arab Kaid and cavalry who, as described in the story
of Kaid Meno, had supplanted that Berber officer and his men.
A message arrived, soon after luncheon, requesting Sir John and
his party to proceed to a palace situated about two miles from Fas.
Here, in a large court—or rather square—the performance took
place. The Sultan, who appeared much pleased to see his English
visitors, saluted them, after every charge in which he joined, by rising
in his stirrups and raising his gun, held horizontally to the level of his
turban, as he passed the spot were they were grouped.
When the ‘fraja’ (sight) was over, we rode back to Fas, through a
gay and wild scene. The whole plain was crowded with various
tribes, grouped separately, and each dancing their own form of gun-
dance. There was one tribe of Shloh, wearing white, with red leather
belts and white turbans; another, in brown; and another, all dressed
in blue. Troops of Sus jugglers and Aisawa snake-charmers mingled
with these, whilst crowds of women took advantage of every mound
or ruined wall whence they could watch their male relatives.
We were about half a mile on our way home, when one of our
Arab escort cursed a Shloh. Immediately, from the crowd, a stone
was thrown at the offender, and this was followed by another. The
escort, who had been riding in open order, at once closed up in
expectation of a row. The three Tangier guards present, pushed
forward; the four English gentlemen surrounded Lady Hay, who rode
a mule near Sir John; and Hadj Alarbi, the chief of the Tangier
beaters—a gallant little man—hurried his mule to Miss Hay’s side,
uncovering, at the same time, Sir John’s breechloader, which he was
carrying, as the gentlemen had been shooting in the Sultan’s garden
in the morning. Seeing him cock the gun, Miss Hay said, ‘Why are
you doing that? You know it is not loaded and you have no
cartridges.’ ‘No,’ said the Hadj, ‘but it looks well!’
The escort and the rest of the party, having now drawn closely
together, were preparing to press forward; when Sir John, who was
as usual riding in front, checked them, giving orders to proceed as
slowly as possible; progress therefore became almost funereal. The
crowd thickened about the party, curses were showered on the Arab
cavalry by the constantly increasing numbers of Shloh, joined by all
the idle folk and boys of the town, who united in the abuse. Presently
a bullet struck the ground near the Arab Kaid, and a soldier of the
escort was injured by one of the stones flung from the crowd, but
these missiles were well aimed, as—though members of the escort
were frequently struck—not one touched any of the English party.
Bullets now whizzed over our heads, or struck the sand in front of us,
sending it flying up in our horses’ faces, but no one was injured. It
was not a pleasant half-hour, as the road was full of holes, and the
horses fidgetty from the noise and crush. On reaching the gates of
Fas, it was found that some of the miscreants had closed them, but
the townspeople behaved well, and, after a short pause, re-opened
the gates to admit us, closing them again immediately to exclude the
mob; but after we had entered the town, boys and other scamps ran
along the high wall, still taunting and insulting the soldiers.
That evening, a message was brought to Sir John from the
Sultan, by his ‘Hajib,’ to express His Majesty’s regret that such an
apparent insult had been offered to the Mission. The Hajib stated
that the Sultan had sent for the chiefs of the tribes and asked for an
explanation of their extraordinary conduct. They assured His Majesty
that no insult was offered to or intended for the Bashador, but that
some of the younger men of the tribes, excited by feasting and with
gunpowder, had taunted and tried to annoy the escort, who had
retorted; the Shloh had hoped to make the cavalry fly, as they were
accustomed to do on meeting them in battle, and thus prove that the
Arabs were unworthy to be guards to the British Mission.
The Hajib then continued, ‘Sidna says he cannot rest unless he is
assured that none of you are injured, and he suggests and begs that
you, your friends and family (meaning the ladies), will return to the
same spot to-morrow to witness the “lab-el-barod,” but without the
Arab escort, and attended only by your Tangier guard.’
Sir John agreed, and next day, accompanied by his younger
daughter and some of the gentlemen, rode to the palace outside the
walls—attended only by the six faithful Suanni men. As we left the
city, each tribe sent a body of armed men to perform the gun-dance
before us.
We witnessed again the ‘lab-el-barod.’ The Sultan was, at first,
mounted on a coal-black horse—in token of his deep displeasure—
but changed soon to a chestnut, and, lastly, mounted a milk-white
steed. Afterwards we rode over the plain, mingling with the tribes.
They cheered wildly, calling down blessings on the Bashador and on
all the English—‘For they are brave and just,’ they cried.
The matters which Sir John especially pressed on the attention of
the Sultan’s advisers on the occasion of this visit were principally
those which, promised in 1873, had not been carried into execution,
in consequence of the death of Sultan Sid Mohammed. Amongst the
more urgent of these demands were the following:—
The placing of a light at Mazagan, to facilitate the entry of ships
into the harbour at night; the building of a pier at Tangier, and of
breakwaters in the harbours of Saffi and Dar-el-Baida; the erection of
more houses and stores for merchants at the ports; permission to
export bones; permission to import sulphur, saltpetre, and lead at a
ten per cent. duty, and the abolition of the Government monopoly on
these articles; the extension of the term placed on removal of
prohibition to export wheat and barley; inquiry into and punishment
of outrages on Jews; immediate settlement of all British claims. Most
particularly he pressed the importance of allowing a cable to be laid
between Tangier and Gibraltar. When he had previously obtained
from the Moorish Government permission for an English Company to
lay such a cable, one of his colleagues informed the Moorish
Government that, in case the concession was granted, he should
insist on telegraph wires being laid between Ceuta and Tangier
overland, and hold the Moorish Government responsible for the
safety of the wires. The Moorish Government, frightened by this
menace, and aware that no inland wires would be safe in the then
state of Morocco, availed themselves of the excuse to withdraw from
their promise to Sir John. On this subject he wrote to Sir Henry
Layard:—
Though we are the pets of the Harem we long to get away, but a message has
just been brought that the Sultan will not let us go till May 1. Never have I met such
a welcome at the Court as on this occasion. Royal honours paid us everywhere,
not a word, not a gesture, not a look that could be called unfriendly. From the
pompous Basha down to the humble labourer, all vie in being civil to the
Englishman who has been, as they say, the friend of the Moor, and who loves
‘justice.’ Even the women don’t hide their faces, or run away from me, but smile
brightly at my grey beard when I peer over the terrace wall, though they are more
shy when my young friends attempt to have a look at them, in their smart dresses,
walking on the terraces.
I have had two private audiences of the Sultan[52] since the public audience.
He and I have become great friends. He is about 6 feet 2 inches high, very
handsome, of a slim and elegant figure, very dignified in his manner, but gentle,
with a sad expression of countenance. I think he is about twenty-seven years of
age. His colour about the same shade as that of Hajot[53]. Features very regular.
He has taken the greatest interest in the telegraph apparatus sent to His Sherifian
Majesty by the British Government. It has been placed in the garden of his palace
between two summer-houses. I stood with the Sultan at one end, and a sapper,
sent by Government to work the instrument, and the Engineer officers at the other.
The first message he received in Arabic letters was ‘May God prolong the life of
Mulai Hassan.’ Several messages were interchanged. I left the room to
communicate with the officers, and the Sultan took possession of the instrument,
and, as the letters are in Arabic, he sent one himself. The sapper was delighted
with his intelligence. He wanted to have wires put between the palace and my
house to enable him to talk to me, he said, but there is no time. He has agreed to
allow of a cable[54] being laid between Tangier and Gibraltar, but not inland as yet,
for he declares that his wild subjects would destroy the wires. I have got, however,
the thin end of the wedge inserted for telegraphic communication. He agrees also
to the Mole at Tangier, and other improvements on the coast, and has removed
some restrictions on trade, so, after much negotiation, ‘un petit pas en avant’ is
made. He told me that he cannot introduce many of the improvements he desires,
from the fear of raising an outcry against himself by some of his ignorant subjects.
He also tells me that his father, before his death, had followed my advice, to give
salaries to the Governors of the Southern provinces, and thus check the system of
corruption and robbery practised by these grandees in office to enrich themselves.
I hear that the inhabitants of these provinces are happy and contented. His
Majesty hopes to introduce the same system into the Northern provinces, and he
sent the Governor-General of half his empire to listen to my advice.
This country is an Augean stable, and I cannot sweep it; but as the Sultan is
well disposed, we are doing our little best to aid him.
He invited us all to witness the feast of the Mulud—an unprecedented favour,
for even in Tangier the authorities think it prudent to recommend Christians and
Jews to keep aloof from the wild tribes who assemble on such occasions.
The chiefs from the Arab provinces and the Berber mountains, with their
followers, amounting to several thousand men, had come to the feast to bring
presents to His Majesty. The Sultan, with all his grandees and regular and irregular
troops, proceeded to a picturesque site two miles beyond the town.
The Sultan sent us a guard of honour and orders to the commander to allow
me and my friends to take up any position we liked. Each chief with his retinue
formed a line and advanced towards the Sultan, bowing low from their horses. His
Majesty gave them his blessing, which was proclaimed by the Master of the
Ceremonies, and then they wheeled round, cheering, and galloped off. Some thirty
governors or chiefs were presented. The scene was beyond description. Imagine
the brilliant costumes of the Sultan’s troops; the flowing white dresses of the wild
Berber; the massive walls and bastions of Fas in the distance, with minarets and
palm-trees o’ertopping them; undulating hills covered with castles and ‘kubba’-
topped tombs, interspersed with orange-groves, olive-trees, and luxuriant
vegetation; a shining river flowing at our feet, and the snowy range of the Atlas in
the distance, and you have a picture which was wonderful to behold.
No people can behave better than the ‘Fassien’ have this time, and even the
swarms of Berbers we meet are civil to us. The Sultan sent a message to us (we
were all in our ‘armour’) that he was very glad we had come to the feast, as he
wished to show all his subjects that I was his honoured guest and friend.
This is a very chilly place. Last time I was here, in 1868, I had dysentery, and
now I have a frightful cold. Water everywhere; air hot outside, but cold in the
house.
I have not, either in reply to Lord Derby or to McKenzie, who has written to me,
opposed the scheme; but I have warned them that it will be natural to expect a
strong hostile feeling on the part of the tribes who inhabit the oases and borders of
the desert, and who have had, from time immemorial, the privilege of escorting
caravans and levying contributions on the traffic through the Sahara.
I should doubt that there would be any depth in the Kus. In my ignorance I
should say that the sea had withdrawn from that region from the uplifting of the
surface, and that even if there be parts much lower than the Atlantic, it would be a
sea too dangerous to navigate from the risk of sand-banks. I don’t think you and I
will live to hear that the cutting has been made. Money will be raised, and the
engineers will fill their pockets—‘y nada mas.’
CHAPTER XXII.
1876-1879.
Sir John’s annual leave was generally taken in the autumn, for,
as he writes from Tangier to Sir Joseph Hooker,—
We visit England every year, but prefer going in the shooting instead of the
season, as to us, barbarians, we find English society more cordial in their ‘castles’
than when engaged in circling in a whirlpool of men and women in the ‘season.’
Our stay therefore is very short in town, and this will account for my not having
given you a hail in your paradise at Kew. We probably go home in July; if so, and
you are in town, I shall call either on arrival or return.
Eastern affairs boded ill for peace in 1876, and Sir John, always
deeply interested in matters connected with Turkey, writes in July:—
The cloud in the East looks very threatening. I hope we shall not do more than
insist on fair play. If the Christian races are able to hold their own, we ought not to
interfere so long as they are not placed under the sway of Russia or other Power
antagonistic to us. If the Turks succeed in quashing the insurrection, I hope our
influence will be exerted to prevent outrages being committed by the
Mohammedans. I do not believe in the resurrection of the ‘sick man,’ but I am
convinced that Russia has done her best to hurry him to death’s door. When the
Blue Books are published, we shall have much to learn, especially if our Foreign
Office has to defend its present menacing attitude before the British Parliament
and public. If England had looked on passively, we should probably have been
forced into war.
‘Lord Derby’s policy in the East,’ he writes, ‘has astounded the foreigners. They
all without exception appear pleased to see the old Lion growl and bestir itself, and
Russia “reculer” (“pour mieux sauter”). The policy of the latter was evidently the
system of administering slow poison. I don’t think we can prevent paralysis of the
patient, or his final demise, but we have done right well in showing that we cannot
allow a doctor, who prescribes poison, to play the part of chief adviser to the
patient. Let him live awhile, and the course of events may prevent the balance
tipping in favour of our opponents in the East.’
April 5, 1877.
I rejoiced to hear that you go to Stambul pro tem.; for I have no doubt the
appointment will be hereafter confirmed, and the right man will be in the right
place.
As you say, it will be a very difficult post, especially as I fear in these days an
ambassador cannot look alone, as in the days of Ponsonby and Redcliffe, to the
course he deems would best serve the interests of his country—and I may add of
Turkey—but he must seek to satisfy lynx-eyed humanitarians and others, even
though he may know that the real cause of humanity will not be benefited.
If vigilance, tact, and decision can gain the day, it will be yours.
I am, however, very far from rejoicing at your removal from Madrid, and shall
miss you much. Through you the evil machinations of the Don have been
thwarted. Had you been at Madrid in 1859-60 we should not have had war in
Morocco.
Layard has gone to Stambul. He writes me that he has a hard task before him;
he will have to work in the teeth of humanitarians who have done much against the
cause of humanity already, though their motives are no doubt good. I have said
from the first, Russia won’t fight unless Turkey forces her. . . . Russia will get up
another massacre when she thinks the rumour suitable to her interests and views.
In the meantime Sir John, who still maintained his influence at the
Court, continued unremitting in his efforts to abolish abuses in
Morocco.
Just before going on leave in 1877 he writes from Tangier to his
sister:—
I feel sorry to leave this even for two months, but am glad to have a rest, for as
our young Sultan makes me superintend his foreign affairs, I have no rest. We
think of leaving on the 28th. I have my leave, but I have so much work to get
through I could not well start before then.
I am striking at the Hydra, Protection, which is depriving this Government of its
lawful taxes and of all jurisdiction over Moors. Lord Derby is making it an
international question, and has hitherto given me carte blanche.
I shall fight the battle, and if abuses are maintained, and this Government is too
weak and powerless to resist them, I shall fold my arms and await events; I can do
no more.
The Moorish Government have very strong grounds for complaint and for
insisting on reform and the abolition of these abuses, which are extending in such
a manner that soon all the wealthy merchants and farmers will be under foreign
protection and refuse to pay taxes. . . .
In my reply to Sid Mohammed Bargash, which I repeated both in French and
Arabic, I said that, though I had been thirty-two years British Representative and
was in charge of the interests of Austria, Denmark, and the Netherlands, and
though British trade with Morocco was greater than the trade of all the other
nations put together, I did not give protection to a single Moorish subject not
actually in the service of Her Majesty’s Government, or in my personal service or
that of my subordinate officers.
I think I told you that I was informed by Lord Derby that my term of service—
five years in accordance with decree of Parliament about Ministers—had expired,
but that the Queen had been pleased to signify her desire that I should remain in
Morocco, and hopes I shall be pleased. . . . I only agree to remain until I have
settled the question of irregular protection.
‘I have suggested,’ he writes to his sister in June, 1877, ‘to Lord Salisbury that
there should be no more palavering at Tangier, where some of the Representatives
have personal interests in maintaining abuses, but that a decision be come to by
the several Governments, or by a Conference at some Court, a Moorish Envoy
attending. As the fate of Morocco will greatly depend on the decision come to, and
as its position on the Straits and its produce must sooner or later bring this country
to the front, I have urged that my suggestion deserves attention.’
Lately we have had many meetings of Foreign Representatives, and I have had
to waggle my tongue, and my throat has suffered accordingly. I have some trouble,
being Doyen, and all the meetings take place at my house. We are trying to get rid
of abuses and of the system of Foreign Ministers and Consuls riding roughshod
over this wretched Government and people and compelling them to pay trumped-
up claims. The German and Belgian are my coadjutors.
‘We continue,’ writes Sir John, ‘to progress like the cow’s tail, but one step has
been made in the right direction. The Sultan is forming a body of regular troops,
and our Government is aiding him by drilling squads at Gibraltar, who will act as
instructors to the “Askar” when they have been instructed and return to the Court.
With ten thousand regulars the Sultan ought to be able to bring under subjection
the wild tribes who only acknowledge him as the Chief of Islam. There would then
be better security for life and property. This I hope would lead to the development
of commerce and resources of this country, but we travel at camel’s pace—I may
add, a lame camel.
‘There has been a great lack of rain throughout Morocco. The usual fall is
between thirty and fifty inches; this winter since September only three and a-half
inches have fallen. The country is parched in the South, all the crops have failed,
and cattle are dying. In this province the crops still look green, and a little rain fell
last night, but water will be as dear as beer in England if we have not a good
downfall. We fear there will be famine in the land.’
These fears were realised, and Sir John writes to his sister that he
had suggested to the British Government that his visit to the Court in
the spring should be postponed, ‘as minds of Moorish Government
will be preoccupied and my preaching and praying would be of no
avail.’
In June he writes again:—
This country is in a very sad state. Robert[55] says the people are dying of
starvation round Mogador, and cattle and sheep by the thousands. I see no
prospect of warding off the famine, and fear that misery will prevail for many years
in the Southern districts, as there will be no cattle to till the land. Sultan is said to
be distributing grain. Wheat and other provisions are imported from England and
other foreign countries. Bread here is dearer than in England, though the crops in
this district are good. Robert has appealed to the British public through the Times
and Lord Mayor, but John Bull has doled out his sovereigns so liberally for Indians,
Chinese, Bulgarians, and Turks, that I fear there will be very little for the Moor.
We have got up subscriptions here for the Mogador poor.
Good health at Tangier; but cholera—or, if not cholera, some dire disease—is
mowing down the population in the interior. At Dar-el-Baida, a small town with
about 6,000 population, the deaths amounted to 103 a day! but the disease is
moving South, not North. The rains and cool weather will I hope check the evil.
Great misery in the interior. There are reports that the starving people eat their
dead. This I think is an exaggeration, but they are eating the arum[56] root, which
when not properly prepared produces symptoms like cholera.
The closing of the port of Gibraltar against all articles of trade from
Morocco had produced great distress amongst the poorer classes,
and the arbitrary measures taken by the sanitary authorities at
Gibraltar and the Spanish ports served to add to the miseries of the
population of Morocco. In addition to these calamities, during Sir
John’s absence the terrors of some of the European Representatives
led to the introduction of futile and mischievous quarantine
regulations at Tangier itself, which Sir John on his return at once
combated.
‘There is good health in Tangier,’ he writes in October, ‘but I expect we shall
have cholera before the spring. My colleagues during my absence had run amuck
and established a cordon outside the town, stopping passengers and traffic,
fumigating skins, clapping poor folk into quarantine exposed to the night air, and
other follies. As I said to them, “Why do you introduce cordons in Morocco when
you don’t have them in other countries? It is only a source of bribery and
corruption. The rich get through and the poor starve outside. It is a measure which
only trammels traffic and promotes distress.”
‘A Spaniard, guard of a cordon at Tetuan, was killed, and there was nearly a
revolution amongst the Mohammedans at Tangier. Then an order came from the
Sultan to remove cordons, and saying Foreign Representatives were only
empowered to deal in sanitary and quarantine regulations by sea and not inland.
My colleagues (except German—Belgian is absent) were furious and said it was
all my doing, and they have been baying at me ever since like a pack of wolves, as
the cordon is taken off. The malady in the interior, whatever it is, cholera or typhus,
is on the wane, but deaths from starvation are numerous.
‘Sultan is feeding some three thousand at Marákesh. Rain has fallen in the
South, but cattle are dead or unfit to plough, and the poor have no seed. The ways
and means of the Government are coming to an end, and the little impulse lately
given to trade and civilisation will, I fear, be lost for years.’
The doctors at Tangier, Mazagan, and Mogador have now formally declared
that the prevalent disease is not cholera asiatica, but that it has a choleraic
character. The famished, weak, and poor invalids are carried off, but if a person in
comfortable circumstances is attacked, a dose of castor oil, or even oil, cures
them. This is not cholera asiatica. There have been cases they say at Tangier, but
the mortality this year is less than usual.
Gibraltar, however, continues its rigorous measures—thirty days quarantine—
and will not admit even an egg under that. I see no hope for improvement until
after next harvest. The poor must starve. These quarantines increase the misery,
for they check trade, and the poor engaged in labour connected with commerce
are in a starving state. The German Minister and I are doing what we can to relieve
about three hundred people here. Robert relieves some 2,700 daily at Mogador.
It is pouring; what a blessing! All the wells in the town are dry. I send a mile to
get water: two mules at work, and my water-supply must cost me two shillings a
day.
Towards aiding the starving poor in the Moorish coast towns
£2,600 were raised in London, and at Tangier in December Sir John
writes:—
Last month six of the Foreign Representatives had a meeting, and we decided
on raising a subscription to aid these wretched people to return to their distant
homes. There are some four hundred. £60 was subscribed before the meeting
broke up, and then we sent it on to the Moorish authorities and the well-to-do folk
—Christians, Jews, and Mohammedans, and I believe the collection will amount to
£250. Clothes are to be supplied for the naked, provisions for the road, and with
money sufficient to exist on for a month, we send them off to their distant homes.
We take this step to free Tangier from a crowd of wretched people who have no
homes, and who sleep in the streets under arches. You can imagine the
consequences in our little town, which had become a model as far as scavenging
is concerned.
Again we have been alarmed by the accounts of R. The doctor who attended
him reports that he had a brain fever, which finished off in typhus, brought on, as
doctor said, by over-anxiety and work in relieving the famished people. He was,
thank God, on the 23rd convalescent: fever had left him very weak, and he is
ordered to proceed to Tangier as soon as his strength will permit him to move. . . .
The Italian Vice-Consul at Mogador died of typhoid, the French Consul was at
death’s door. Poor Kaid Maclean is in a dangerous state at Marákesh. Several
Europeans at the ports have died of typhoid.
The atmosphere is poisoned by the famished people and bodies buried a few
inches below the surface or even left exposed.
We have sent off the poor, with aid from here, and as I happen to be President
of the Board this month, I am attending to hygienic measures, and hope thereby to
ward off the dread disease from this town.