INTERNSHIP REPORT

KAY AND EMMS FAISALABAD

SUBMITTED BY:

Ayesha Imdad

Letter of Undertaking
This report, written by myself, under the direction of their supervisors and approved by all the
members of internship committee, has been presented to and accepted by Govt. college women
universty, Faisalabad in fulfillment of the requirement of the degree of Bachelor of busniess and
administration.

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Industry Supervisor University
Supervisor

Head of Department HR Manager

Date: _____________

Acknowledgement
Knowledge is limited and time is short to express the dignity of Almighty ALLAH, the
Propitious, the Benevolent and Sovereignty, the Entire source of all the knowledge and wisdom
endowed to the man kind. Lips are trembling and eyes are wet to pray for the Holy Prophet
HAZRAT MUHAMMAD (S.A.W); the beacon of enlightenment, the fountain of knowledge
and the messenger of peace and forever torch of guidance for humanity. I am thankful to our
Parents for all their support and trust in us, Kay & Emms (Pvt.) Ltd for providing me with this

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great opportunity which is not only give exposure to industry but also enhanced my technical and
professional skill.
There are many names that deserve appreciation.
First, I would like to thank Mr. Hamza, Deputy H.R of Kay& Emms for giving me the
opportunity to do an internship within the organization.
I also would like all the people that worked along with me in Kay & Emms, with their
patience and openness they created an enjoyable working environment.
I am highly indebted to G.M Marketing Mr. Waseem Safdar, Assistant Manager Mr.
Ali Haider & Mr. Kamran Sb for the facilities provided to accomplish this internship.
I would like to thank my internal supervisor Mr. Ali Haider for his constructive criticism
throughout my internship.
I would like to thank Dr. Sajjad Ahmed Baig, internship coordinator, for their support
and advice to get and complete internship in above said organization.
I am extremely great full to my department staff members and friends who helped me in
successful completion of this internship.

Abstract
Through critical and deep study, this report examines the types of production systems that
are used in apparel industry of Pakistan. It shows the analysis and comparison of production
systems with respect to cost, quality, and productivity. Since the function of sewing department
mainly depends on the type of production system, its selection needs to be done carefully. This
study is based on the analysis of the handling time required to complete the operations of a polo
shirt, as the needle time is constant in all types of systems. This thesis also focuses on the
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positive and negative aspects of production systems. It demonstrates that the industry has made
significant progress towards comprehending the necessity of proper production system which has
implications on the overall productivity of an apparel mill.

Executive Summary
In my six weeks of internship program at Kay & Emms Pvt. Limited Faisalabad, I visited
different departments of the organization and learned about the departmental working, working
process and different techniques used in these departments. Kay & Emms is vertically integrated
unit from Yarn to Garment. In my very first week of the internship, I started from the Product
Development or Knitting of the Industry. I am there for almost one and half weeks of my
internship. I study the workflow of the departments and the working of different stages in the
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department like Knitting, yarn procurement, consumption of the fabric in the garment. I also
study the GGT department in PD and learn some basics of GGT (Garment Gerber Technology).
Sample Room working is also studied under the supervision of PD department I also learnt from
Teck Pack to Finishing of garment. I studied about the reading of Teck Pack, making of Patterns
from Tech Pack, Cutting of Panels, and Stitching of cut panels to obtain the garment sample,
their measurement and final inspection.
In the last three days of 2nd week, I visited the Fabric department, knitting, of the
organization which is separate area from another mill. The knitting department comprises of 31
single- and double-knit machines in which 17 are single knit, 8 are double knit and 4 are auto
striper single knit. During my visit to Knitting, I briefly studied and examined the machines,
different types, their RPM, feeder, gauge, and cylinder, dia of the machine and which type of the
fabrics are produced from these machines. Different types of yarns from basic of their
construction and count were also examined and collected to know about this yarn. Finally, the
inspection of the rolls of fabric was inspected and examined. I also examine different types of
knitted single Structure and double knitted structure.
In 3rd week of the internship, I visited the wet processing departments of the organization
in which we studied the working flow of dyeing lab, dyeing production and finishing, manual
screen printing (table printing), automatic screen printing (machine printing) and rotary screen
printing. During my visit to dyeing and finishing department, firstly I studied the working of
dyeing lab in which they make the recipe of the color which they received from the
merchandizer. They made recipe for 5g of fabric. After approval of lab dips, they send this recipe
to production where production department dyes the fabric according to these recipes. The total
production of dyeing is 20000 kg/day or 600 tons/month. After dyeing, the fabric is sent for
slitting-to-slitting machine. They have 3 slitting machines. After slitting fabric is sent to finishing
where fabric is pass through Stentor and compactor machines. Fabric finishing is also applied on
the Stentor. Finishing department also has 4 Raising machines for making fleece and one
peaching machine. After finishing fabric is stored in fabric store for further movement to cutting
department.
The printing department is also studied in this week. There are separate sections for table
printing, machines printing and rotary as well as. Table printing is done manually having 6
5000pcs/shift Production. Kay & Emms have two automatic screen-printing machines having 8
color, 12 heads capacity and 6000 pcs/shift production. Kay & Emms also have 8 color rotary
printing machines where they print in 8 different colors. During my visit to printing department
studied the workflow of printing from receiving artwork from merchandizer to print and further
quality check. I examined and saw the different types of printing and samples of different
printing techniques, such as Puff printing, Purl Printing, Discharge Printing etc.
In the 4th week of internship, I visited the merchandising and PPC departments. The
merchandising is the base of any industry as it is directly attached to the customer. I studied the

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workflow of merchandising department from inquiry to dispatch of the order. I also learnt about
different types of samples that were made by merchandizers to send it to customer. I also learnt
about the relation of merchandizer with other departments. I also follow the sample making of
different order of merchandizer in the sample room.
PPC department is also important department of the organization. PPC has a function to
utilize the capacity of the organization in the best way. PPC plans every part of production from
inquiry to shipment. PPC of Kay & Emms divided into two parts: Dyeing PPC and Production
PPC. Dyeing PPC plans the order for dyeing, finishing, and laundry and printing whereas
Production PPC plans the order for knitting, cutting, stitching, finishing, audit, and shipment.
PPC department also follows ups the order for timely shipment.
In the 5th week of internship, I visited the Industrial Engineering and Production
departments. IE department calculates the SAM of the article and makes CMT of that order and
also calculates the thread consumption. These are used in Costing of the garment. IE also makes
the operations breakdown, targets of the garments/order and balance the lines according to these
breakdowns. IE calculates the targets of the lines and efficiency and capacity of the lines and
overall, of the unit. IE also interviewed the operator when hired.
Production department of Kay & Emms consist of Stitching, Finishing and Packing
departments. I studied the workflow of these departments from induction of the cut panels to
shipment. I taught about the flows and inductions of cut panels, finishing of the garment like
pressing, trimming, and distaining of the garments. I also visited the packing department and see
the packing of the garments and auditing techniques.
As cutting department is separate from the production, I also visit the cutting during
production stage. Kay & Emms have automatic cutting as well as manual straight knife cutting.
Cutting department is equipped with latest machinery. I learnt workflow from receiving fabric to
bundling of cut panels than sent to production.
In last week of internship, I learnt about Quality lab and T & A departments. Quality
labor Physical Testing lab of Kay & Emms is equipped with the latest machinery. It is an AATCC
and ISO certified lab where different tests are performed on fabric as well as yarns as customer
demands. Kay & Emms Quality control and quality assurance department check the garment
according to the costumer parameters. I also visited the laundry department where I saw different
washing techniques and examined different 8 garments of different washing techniques.

1. Overview of the Company

Brief History
Kay & Emms (Pvt.) Ltd established in 1990, is one of the leading manufacturers of
knitted apparel in Pakistan. With the experience of more than 21 years in the industry, Kay &
Emm have served several different major brands and labels in the US and Europe. The Idea of
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KM was perceived by Mr. Sharif Tariq (Chairman) who has spent all his life in yarn trading
business which he inherited from his forefathers. In last 35 years Mr. Sharif Tariq has earned
immense respect and credibility in the world’s largest market. He always had dream of making a
final product through he sold for years. This dream came true when Mr. Khurram Tariq eldest
son came into business. Mr. Khurram Tariq (CEO) established KM in 1990 with 35 stitching
machines. Today It has turned into mass garment manufacturing unit with more than 1400
machines.
1.1. Introduction to Organization
Kay & Emm’s is located in the Pakistan’s industrial hub Faisalabad. It has been referred
to as the"ManchesterofPakistan"becauseitcontributesover20%towardPakistan'sannualGDP.
Faisalabad is recognized as the center of the textile industry in Pakistan, contributing to half of
Pakistan’s total textile shipments.
Kay & Emms is vertically integrated knitted mill with knitting to garment facility. Kay &
Emm’s can produce different styles of men, ladies, and children from basic to high fashion with
extensive embellishments. Kay& Emms deals in 100% cotton and cotton-blended fabrics. Fleece,
interlocks, Ribs, and cotton-spandex fabrics are strengths of Kay & Emms and several other
programs like Jerseys, Piques and thermal serials manufactured every year. The vertically
integrated operations help Kay & Emms to achieve shorter lead times and greater flexibility to
cater to the customers‟ demand and their satisfaction. As a business we can produce70,000
pieces per week. The factories are producing a range of knitted jersey tops and bottoms with
heavy embellishments for Children, Ladies and Men’s wear.
The core values of company are:
1-Trust
2- Agility
3- Service
4- Coordination 15
5- Ownership
6- Truthful Information Sharing

1.2. Mission & Vision statement

Vision:
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To be “the best of the knits” through culture & excellence and be a meaningful contributor to
Society.
Mission:
“Sustainable organic growth through amazing customer experience, vendor partnership,
innovation, quality and commitment, providing exceptional value to all of its stakeholders.”
1.3. Policy of the Organization
To attain this height and to maintain it too, whatever fused to compromise on quality and
service at every step. We believe that great companies never stop growing and this is the cause
they never grow alone. They help others realize their dreams even as they peruse their own.
Great companies are not afraid to innovate, to challenge, to lead; they shine through and take
charge of what they have worked so hard for and that which they truly deserve. Our future lies in
associating with great companies and in growing with them, carrying with us the dreams of
people who have invested in us and have never let us down. Further company wants to achieve
below.
 To be business house of first choice for customers.
 To produce innovative, relevant cost-effective products.
 Setting and maintaining high standards
 To earn profits by achieving optimum level of production by using state-of-the-art
technologies.
 To provide ideal working conditions for employees and to take care in their career
planning and reward the according to their skill and responsibility.
 To meet social and cultural obligations towards society by being a patriotic and
conscientious corporate citizen.
It has stood strong on its principles of:
 Honesty and integrity in each transaction
 An attitude of inclusive growth

1.4. Major Competitors

 Masood Textile mills Pvt. Limited
 Kalash Pvt. Limited
 Makkah Apparels

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 1.5. Manufacturing Process
Our factory has been vertically integrated to facilitate all the processes involved in garment
manufacturing under one roof. This enables us to reduce the time spent on completing others
while meeting dead targets of buyers.
All our machines are the latest available on the market, and whenever required, K & M is always
flourishing with most modern equipment. All our departments are equipped with the latest
equipment to maintain the high-quality standards that we have set for ourselves.

1.3 Founder and Management team

Dr. Khurram Tariq CEO Kay & Emms
Mr. Moazzam Tariq Director Operations
Mr. Khurram Tariq Chief Executive Officer
Mr. Sharif Tariq Chairman
Mr. Major Nadeem Admin Manager
Mr. Faisal Waheed G.M Marketing
Mr. Imran Salfi Production Manager
Mr. Sardar Muhammad Senior G.M
Mr. Wasim Safdar DGM
Mr. Zameer Hussain Shah Import export manager
Mr. M. Shahid Nizami Finance Manager
Mr. Shahid Kareem Yarn manager
Mr. Sadaqat Rasool ISO manager
Mr. Sajad Shah Account manager

1.4 Business Type

Manufacturer Wholesaler/retailer

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Main Target Region
 United States of America
 Germany
 Italy
 Netherland
 Japan
 United Kingdom
 Spain

1.5. Product Line

Figure 1: Product Line in Kay & Emms

1.6. Major Customer

 Zara’s (Inditex Group)
 SanMar
 American Eagle
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  Bass Pro Shops
 League Colligate Wear
 Russell Athletic
 Pull & Bear
 Barshka
 Primark
 Pajama Grams
 Tailgate
 Gap (Chase & Licensed)

2. Organizational Structure

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 a) Hierarchy of the Company

Directors

General Manager

Deputy General Manager

Senior Manager

Manager

Deputy Manager

Assistant Manager

Senior Officer

Officer/MT/TE

Supervisor

Knitting operator

Trainee Operator

Helper

b) Number of Employees
There are 1000-5000 employees are currently working in Kay & Emms

c) Office Location
 Inno Knits, USA
 Kay& Emms Pvt. Limited, South Asia (Pakistan)
Main Office
 16/ Civil Lines Main Club Road, Faisalabad–Pakistan
Address

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  Millat Road, 117J B Dhanola, Faisalabad, Pakistan

d) Division of Department
Head Office:
Head office contains different departments.
 Purchase department
 Accounts& finance department
 IT department
 Export & logistics
 Administration department
 HR department
Fabrication (K1):
Fabrication contains departments which are.
 K1 dyeing & finishing.
 Supply chain
 Yarn procurement
 Cutting
 Laundry

Apparel Division
This division contains departments like.
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  PPC department
 IE department
 Quality
 Stitching
 Printing
 Embroidery
 Sales & merchandising
 PD/ R&D department
 Merchandising department

3. Plan of Internship

3.1. Brief Introduction of Branch

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Kay & Emms is a leading textile unit in hub of textile, Faisalabad, with vast experience of
working in knitted products production. I done my internship in Fabrication and Apparel division
of the organization which I visited PD, Merchandising, IE, and PPC, Production departments to
learn and to complete my internship plan. These departments are located side by side to each
other.
3.2. Departments of Internship
 Fabrication Department (Knitting Unit)
 Product Development (R&D)
 Merchandising Department
 Dyeing and Finishing Department
 Table and Rotary Printing Department
 Cutting Department
 Industrial Engineering Department
 Production Planning & Control Department
 Production (Stitching, Finishing, Packing) Department
 Laundry

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 4. Introduction to Management Team

4.1 HR department

Strategic human resource management at Kay & Emms is linked to the overall strategy of the
organization. By playing the role of a strategic partner and a change agent, Human Resource
Department of the Kay & Emms aims to provide all units with an effective workforce, ensure
that all employees have ample opportunities for learning and development and to act as an
advisor to the management, helping them in keeping all employees happy, motivated, and
productive.
Mission Statement of HR department
Through strategic partnerships and collaboration, we provide a positive, courteous, and excellent
HR service experience to applicants, employees, and retirees, we partner with departments to
recruit, develop, support, and retain diverse and talented employees in order to maximize
individual and organizational potential and position Kay & Emms as an employer of choice.

4.2 Production

Knitting Floor

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The main role of their productions team to enhance productivity with operations layouts,
technical and professionally educated and skilled manpower, latest techniques, and machinery to
achieve the targets with quality.

4.3 Quality Control

Quality Control

Their Quality Department aims to provide better quality products to their valued customers by
meeting their requirements and exceeding their exceptions.
They use 4-point system for inspection of fabric.

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 5. Manufacturing process

Kay & Emms is being considered as one of the Largest Knit Composite facilities of Pakistan and
is doing work in following areas of textile.
 Yarn
 Knitting
 Dyeing
 Rotary Printing
 Finishing
 Cutting
 Panel Printing
 Embroidery
 Stitching
 Garment Process
 Finishing Packing

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 6. Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production
of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, or ropemaking.

6.1 Important characteristics of yarn

 Yarn count or number
 Yarn twist.
 Fiber composition whether grey, bleached or dyed.
 Breaking strength or tenacity
 Elongation
 Regularity or evenness
 Specific gravity
 Hairiness
 Bending rigidity
 Feel, appearance, luster, etc.
 Effect of heat, water, chemicals, etc.
 Abrasion resistance
 Elasticity
 Surface smoothness and friction

6.2 Yarn selecting parameters for knitting.

The Selection of yarn for any particular end product is based on the following factors:
 Final appearance and quality
 Users’ point of view
 Drape ability
 Wrinkle resistance
 Dimensional stability
 Porous structure
 Durability
 Soft handle
 Lightweight
 Ease of care
 Felting behavior (in case of wool)
 Fabric design and construction
 Type of machine and gauge
 Knitting point of view (requirements of machine)
 Uniform thickness
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  Circular cross section
 Flexibility and pliability i.e., low bending and torsion resistance
 Low twist liveliness
 Smooth surface i.e., low coefficient of friction
 High elongation at break
 High abrasion resistance
 High elasticity and quick recovery
 Moderate tensile strength
 Regularity in twist, evenness and regain.
 Good resiliency

Kay & Emms doesn’t have its own spinning unit. They outsource worldwide known dealers like
“Ibrahim Fibers”. Mostly 10/1 to 36/1 is used by kay & Emms in its products.
As Pakistan is ranked 4th for Cotton production in the world but kay&emms believe on
Versatility. So Beside Conventional Cotton, they have a great verity in other Fibers Like:
 COOLMAX®
 THERMOLITE
 TENCEL®
 MODAL®
 MICRO POLYESTER
 INDIGO
 NYLON
 VISCOSE
 BAMBO
 LINEN

6.3 List of the dealers from which kay & Emms outsource its yarns.
6.3.1 Dealers of Ecru yarn
 Zahid Jee textile (PC & cotton yarns)
 Ibrahim fibers limited (PC & polyester yarn)
 Rupali Sheikhupura (filament yarn)
 AA spinning
 Saif textile, KPK
 AJ textile
 Sapphire

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6.3.2 Dealers of Melange yarn
 Saif Textile, KPK
 Sapphire
 Bhanero textile
 DIN textile
 Margalla textile mills

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 7. Knitting

7.1 Types of knitted Fabric produced at Kay & Emms

 Single jersey solid fabric
 Feed stripe
 Auto stripe
 Jacquard
 2 Fleeces
 3 fleeces
 Simple & cross fleece
 Rib 1*1 simple & with lycra
 Rib 2*1 simple & with lycra
 Pique
 Plated fabric
 Thermal
 Waffle
 Quilted Fabric
 Otto-men Fabric
 Flat back rib

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Types of Creels used at factory?
Side & H-type creels are used with knitting machines.
Creel Capacities?
Creel capacity is double the number of feeders of each machine.
How is thread break indicated on the creel?
It is indicated by the MPF light on every feeder and the RED main light blinks when yarn breaks.
How broken yarn is noted and repaired?
It is repaired by simple knotting.

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 8. Dyeing
Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by applying various colors and their
shades on to a fabric. Dyeing can be done near any stage of the manufacturing of textile- fiber,
yarn, fabric, or a finished textile product including garments and apparels. The property of color
fastness depends upon two factors- selection of proper dye. According to the textile material to
be dyed and selection for dyeing the fiber, yarn, or fabric. Kay & Emm’s has its own dyeing unit
to meet the requirements of dyeing. Kay & Emm’s has a tramural and very well-equipped dyeing
department with a production capacity of around 20,000 Kg of dyeing / day allows to fully meet
dyeing requirements. They have dyeing machines for dyeing cotton fabric and a fully
computerized high temperature jet- dyeing machine to dye all kinds of synthetic fabrics
including polyester. A well-equipped laboratory ensures all dyed fabric is properly checked, as
per buyer’s requirements, for factors such as shrinkage, color fastness, etc. The Fabric Processing
has a capacity of dyeing 20 tons per day. It is fortified with Scholl, Sclavos, DMS and MCS
dyeing machines. It is capable of dyeing both 100% cotton and blended fabric. The machine size
selection gives the flexibility in dyeing a lot size ranging from 50 kg to 2,000 kg.

8.1 Dyeing Lab

The Dyeing lab in Kay & Emm’s is responsible for making recipes and lab dips from
merchandiser provided color or fabric samples for bulk production. The merchandiser provides
the color code from shade books like TCX, TPX, C-Book or U-Book as per customer demand or
may provide fabric sample from which color is identified by color assessment machine. The lab
operators make recipes for 5g fabric and after approval. This recipe is made for bulk production.

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8.1.1 Dyeing Lab Equipment
The dyeing lab of Kay & Emm’s is well equipped with the latest machinery.
 Weighing
 Multi fastener
 Auto Lab Dispenser

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  Solution Maker
 Oven Dryer and Pedder
 Light Cabin
 Spectrophotometer
 Auto Conditioner
 Weighing Balance

8.2 Dyeing Machinery

Dyeing Machine is the device that is used by different industries for imparting colors. From
textiles everywhere there is use of Dyeing Machinery. According to the need of each type of
substrate, distinct sets of machines are used.

Figure: Dyeing Machine

 Reactive Dyes are most used for Cotton Fabric at the temperature range of 60 C. Cotton
Fabric takes 08 hours to dye.

 Disperse Dyes are most used for polyester Fabric at the temperature range of 130 C.
Polyester fabric takes 10 hours to dye.

1 kg = 10 ml water.
Water ratio.

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8.3 Various classes and types of dyes are listed below.

 Acid Dye
 Natural Dyes
 Basic (Cationic) Dyes
 Synthetic Dyes
 Direct (substantive) Dyes
 Disperse Dyes
 Sulfur Dyes
 Pigment Dyes
 Mordant Dyes
 Vat Dyes
 Reactive Dyes
 Macromolecular Dyes
 Naphthol Dyes
 Premetallized Dyes
 Kay & Emms use variety of dyes. Some of the areas under:
 Reactive Dye
 Disperse Dye
 Pigment Dyes
 Fluorescent Dye

8.4 Machinery Details and Capacity

Knitting units produce fabrics of excellent quality with minimum defects. Additionally, an online
fabric inspection system is in function to meet the international quality parameters as required by
most of the customers. “4–points quality system “introduced by j.c penny (usa) is also being
followed at knitting facility.

TYPE QYT CAPACITY MAKE COUNTRY

High Temp 1 1360 KGs Schollp Switzerland

High Temp 1 900 KGs Schollp Switzerland
High Temp 1 750 KGs Krantz Germany
High Temp 1 450 KGs Krantz Germany

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High Temp 1 100 KGs Gaston Country USA
Atmospheric 1 500 KGs Krantz Germany
Atmospheric 1 450 KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan
Atmospheric 1 350 KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan
Atmospheric 1 50 KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan
Atmospheric 1 500 KGs Krantz Germany
Atmospheric 1 450KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan
Atmospheric 1 350KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan
Atmospheric 1 50KGs Asia Kingdom Taiwan

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8.5 Garment Dyeing & Washing
Kay & Emm’s has its own laundry in which garments wet and dry processes are done, and
different looks are given to the garment.
This includes different types of washes and sprays. Most commonly used effects are:
 Tear Effect.
 Tie & Dye.
 Brushing Effect.
 Vintage Spray.
 Bleach Spray.
 Raw Leather Look.
 Hot Pigment Dye.
 Raisin Coating.
 Dip Dye.
 Oil Wash.
 Pigment Random Spray.
 Bubble Spray.
 Reactive Dye.
 Spray Wash.
 Bleach Wash.
 PP Stone Wash.
 Whiskers.
 Scrapping.
 Enzyme Wash.
 Acid Wash.

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  PFGD (Prepared for Garment Dyeing.)
 Half bleach process done for Dyeing.
 Garment Dye capacity is 100 kg which includes 40-50 garments.
 Laundry is effect making department in knits & denim.
 It gives a value addition to the garment.

TYPES OF WASHES
1. Acid Wash.
2. Tie & Dye Wash.
3. Burn-out Wash.
4. Silicon Wash.
5. Vintage Wash.
6. Sulphate Wash.
7. Snow Wash.

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8.6 Finishing

Finishing department at KAY & Emms comprises of automatic hydro-extractors for the removal
of moisture from dyed fabric, computerized tensionless dryers for instant fabric drying, soft
setting and calendaring machines for systematic soft-setting and rolling of fabric, fully
computerized compaction machines for complete shrinkage control, and panel wash machines
and tumble dryers for panel washing the fabric to give minimum shrinkage value.

Finishing Capacity per Month is 600 Tons Some important finishing processes done in Kay &
Emms are given below:
 Bio Wash Soil,
 Oil & Water Repellant
 Anti-Bacterial Finish
 Anti-Mosquito Finish
 UV Finish
 Anti-Odor Cool Max
 Wrinkle Free Finish

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 8.7 Finishing Machinery Details
Q
Y
TY CAPA MAK COUN WID
T
PE CITY E TRY TH

Squeezer 1 20 ton/day Santex Switzerland 60″

Slitter 2 26 ton/day Carino Italy 120″

Horizontal Taiwan/Switzerl
dryer and
2 26 ton/day LK&H/Santex 76″/120″

Stenter 8
Chamber 1 18 ton/day EHWA S.Korea 94″

Raising 4 16 ton/day Gessner USA 96″

Peaching
sueding
1 08 ton/day Lafer Italy 86″

Tubular
compactor
2 30 ton/day Fabcon USA 54″

Open width Santex/Spetori

compactor mer
2 22 ton/day Switzrland 80″/96″

Water
Setting 1 10 ton/day Myung Sug S.Korea 60″

Heat Setting 1 10 ton/day Myung Sug S.Korea 60″

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 9. Printing
Kay & Emms is a company which has its own printing area and uses different types of
printing techniques.
Textile printing is defined as “Localized form of a coloration onto a substrate to develop a
specific pattern or design”. Textile printing in the production of a pre-determined colored pattern
on a fabric, usually with a definite repeat. Viscous pastes are used for printing to achieve the
proper design sharpness. Printing uses the same dyes or pigments applied to produce a dyed
fabric.
Costumers gives printing different forms like
 Print designing soft form.
 Print designing hard form.
 Fabric as sample
Kay & Emm’s have flat bed and rotary screen printing which is separately divided.

9.1 Flatbed Printing

Screen printing is by far the most popular technology in use today. The screen-printing process
sea porous mesh stretched tightly over a frame made of wood or metal. Proper tension is
essential for accurate color registration. The mesh is made of porous fabric or stainless steel. A
stencil is produced on the screen either manually or photo chemically. The stencil defines the
image to be printed in other printing technologies this would be referred to as the image plate.
There are two main types of flatbeds screen printing.

9.2 Table Printing

The screen is placed on top of a substrate. Ink is placed on top of the screen, and a flood bar is
used to push the ink through the holes in the mesh. The operator begins with the fill bar at the
rear of the screen and behind a reservoir of ink. The operator lifts the screen to prevent contact
with the substrate and then using a slight amount of downward force pulls the fill bar to the front
of the screen. This effectively fills the mesh. Openings with ink and moves the ink reservoir to
the front of the screen. The operator then uses a squeegee (rubber blade) to move the mesh down
to the substrate and pushes the squeegee to the rear of the screen. The ink that is in the mesh
opening is pumped or squeezed by capillary action to the substrate in a controlled and prescribed
amount, I.e., the wet ink deposit is proportional to the thickness of the mesh and or stencil. As
the squeegee moves toward the rear of the screen the tension of the mesh pulls the mesh up away
from the substrate (called snap-off) leaving the ink upon the substrate surface.

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9.3 Multi-head Screen Printing
Multi head screen printing is an example of semi-automated screen printing. In this case there is
a different print station on the machine and the squeegee is operated by the Machine Laser light.
A marking system is used in this machine to mark our center and other points.
In this Three heaters are used to cure the print paste in between heads.

9.4 Rotary Screen-Printing Machine

Rotary screen printing is so named because it uses a cylindrical screen that rotates in a fixed
position rather than a flat screen that is raised and lowered over the same print location.
Rotary presses place the squeegee within the screen. These machines are designed for roll-to-roll
printing on fabric ranging from narrow to wide-format textiles.
In rotary printing, the fabric travels at a consistent speed between the screen and a steel roller
immediately below the screen. (The impression roller serves the same function as the press bed
on a flatbed press.)
As the fabric passes through the rotary unit, the screen spins at a rate that identically matches the
speed of substrate movement.

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9.5 Process flow of Printing

Artwork Receive from Merchandiser

Design Making

Separation

Design Tracing

Film Engraving

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 Attaching of End rings

Screen Fitting

Color Trial

Run Production

Curing
Flow of Printing

9.6 Types of printing

The different types of printing are:
 Oil based printing
 Water based.
 Flock printing
 Pigment printing
 Paste printing.
 Heat transfer label
 No feel printing.
 Gradient effect
 High density
 Half tone printing.
 Glitter effect
 Solid design
 Foil printing
 Auto crack effect
 Glow in the dark
 Silicon based.
 Shimmer effect
 Embossing

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9.7 Capacity
The department produced on average 4800 pieces per day. The capacity depended on
following factors:
 Number of strokes of machine
 Colors in design
 Number of times screen is applied.

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 10. Fabric inspection department

Fabric inspection makes sure to reduce the amount of cut panels or garments that are
rejected because of fabric flaws. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures the finished
product's quality while also lowering rejections, increasing productivity, and ensuring on-time
deliveries.

Two people were allotted at one roll, and they checked through the roll for different faults. The
major faults that mostly occur are of knitting. The faults were being manually detected and no
machines were used for assistance.

Shade variation
Fabric from Lot card Manual fault 4 point rating. Fabric sent to
checked using.
finishing identification detection per roll sheet store
shade continuity

The different types of faults that were being detected were:

 Screen out.
 Edge miss print
 Touching
 Yarn short
 Slub
 Kunda problem
 Oil spots
 Wrong slit
 Poor raising
 Rust spots
 Chemical spots
 Color patches
 Whiteness
 Needle hole
 Knit hole.
 Press off.
 Yarn variation
 Dead curtain

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 Fabric faults
10.1 Lot card
The lot card is allotted to each lot and the shade, color and fabric type are mentioned on the
card. The lot card helps differentiate between different lots and avoids lot mixing.

10.2 Fabric continuity

To prevent shade mixing in cut fabrics, fabric continuity is formed. The continuity consists of
different shades of a similar color to differentiate between the dyed fabric shades that may appear
within a single roll or multiple rolls of fabric. It is then sent to the cutting department. The
cutting department cuts the fabric rolls in such a way that a single garment is extracted out of a
single roll and hence shade variation within a garment is avoided.

10.3 Fabric Store

The fabric store was used to hold the fabric received from fabric inspection department till
sent to cutting department.

10.4 Stacking
The fabric was received according to lot report and kept in racks in roll form packed in
polyethylene bags. Each roll was allotted a special place in the racks. The information about

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the role is stored in the system. The information represented whether the roll has appeared, is
rejected, or is kept for future use.

The stacking was being done manually at Kay and Emms. The workers manually kept the rolls
in the racks using ladders.

10.5 Problems faced by fabric store.

The problems faced by fabric store were:

 As the work is all manual, labor fatigue was high, and productivity was low.
 Space was limited which resulted in overloading.
 Misplacement of rolls on racks.
 Fabric got dirty or damaged resulting in rejection at cutting.
 Due to delays from the previous departments, the lots were not received in time
resulting in delayed shipments.

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 11. Cutting department

The cutting department oversees cutting the fabric received from store and then supplying it to
the sewing department. The daily feeding needs of the sewing lines are used to plan the
capacity of the cutting department. In Kay and Emms, a stock of 2 days is always kept in
addition to the daily fabric requirement in sewing.

11.1 Process flow

Fabric received.
from store

Cutting plan
formation

Job card
formation

Approval of
pattern

Cutting inline
inspection

Bundling

Induction

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11.2 Daily capacity and machines
At Kay and Emms, the total number of cutting machines was:

 8 auto spreaders by OROX

 3 auto cutters by OROX
 1 band knife cutter
 2 straight knife cutters
 Lapping machine
 2 plotters

The capacities per day in cutting department were:

12. For GSM less than 220, the capacity per spreader was 2000 kg.
13. For GSM greater than 220, the capacity per spreader was 1600 kg.
14. 28 tones capacity per day or 55000 cut pieces produced per day.
15. Average SAM of 1.4 minutes or 77000 working minutes per day.
16. 86% capacity utilization

11.3 Allowances
The different allowances were:

1. A total of 3 inch spreading allowance lengthwise.

2. 1.5% wastage allowance on total weight.
3. 103% cutting production of the total target.

11.4 Lapping machine

A lapping machine was used to open the fabric rolls into lap form for easy feeding to
the spreading machine. The maximum weight of one roll was 40 kg. The lap formed was also
relaxed in trolleys for 24 hours before spreading.

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11.5 GGT department
Tech pack
digitizing hard grading and consumption
received from hard pattern marker making
pattern size set calculated
merchandiser

11.6 Software
The software being used was Gerber AccuMark, version 9. It was different from the
version being used in the production area.

11.7 Machines
1. Digitizer
2. Plotter: It had a maximum width of 82 inches in the sampling department and
for widths greater than this, the marker had to be divided into two.
3. Computers with this software

11.8 Digitizing process

grain line
start piece. grade points close piece end input
direction

rectangular block off set points po

11.9 Marker making process.

Separating Bundle option to Setting patterns in

patterns according Setting size ratio Adding lay limits add in all the marker for
to fabric types patterns on work maximum
area. utilization

11.10 Types of lay limits

1. Tubular lay limits: These limits are used for tubular patterns which must be
cut out from tubular knitted fabric.
2. All direction (AD) lay limits: These limits are used when all the patterns must
be placed in a single direction.

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 3. Size direction (SD) lay limits: These limits are used when the patterns must be
placed in directions different to each other relative to the sizes.
4. No direction (ND) lay limits: These limits are used when the patterns could be
placed in any direction.

11.11 Marker making

A marker is a unique type of stencil that shows how pattern pieces of one or more
garments should be cut from several layers of fabric. In Kay and Emms, the marker making
was being done automatically using the Gerber Garment Technology (GGT) software 11.5.

The type of marker being used was multi-size marker. It indicates that all the sizes, which
mostly included S, M, L, XL and 2XL, were formed on a single marker in such a way that
most space utilization was obtained. The length and width of the marker depend on the length
and width of the fabric being cut. As the marker making occurred automatically, most space
utilization and hence increased productivity due to less time required to complete the process.
In addition to the marker making, the grading was also being done automatically using the
nesting software of GGT. It also added splice marks where necessary. In automatic cutting, the
marker was copied to the cutting machine and in manual cutting, a printout of marker was
obtained and taped onto the fabric placed for cutting.

11.12 Spreading
To prepare for cutting each piece of a garment, large rolls of fabric are spread out onto
long, wide tables. The required number of garments and the thickness of the fabric determine
how many layers there should be. Spreading can be done manually or automatically. At Kay
and Emms, spreading was being done both manually and automatically depending on the
complexity of pattern and the number of sizes required by the customer.

11.13 Auto spreader

After lapping the fabric on the lapping machine and relaxing it for 24 hours, the lapped
fabric was fed onto the back of the auto spreader and passed through several rollers. The
average spreading length was 400 inches. From one roll, 4-5 fabric plies could be laid. The
spreader started spreading the roll from one side of the table and by reaching the end, an

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automatic knife cut the ply end and the spreader came back to spread the next ply. It indicated
that the spreading type being used was face one way with nap one way.

As one roll ended, the next roll was laid such that both the rolls were face to face with each
other. This helped prevent shade variation due to roll mixing. After the lay had been spread, it
was moved to the auto cutting table.

The auto spreader ensured equal tension in the fabric, equal alignment at the edges, less time
consumption and was more efficient than manual spreader.

11.14 Manual spreading

Manual spreading was being done where low production was required and
using automatic spreader would not be energy efficient. The manual lay length ranged from
230-240 inches. In this case, 4-6 people were allotted at one table. The operators pulled the
fabric from lap and spread it onto the table. The quality of spreading depended on the
expertise of the operator. However, this process was time consuming and not very efficient as
tension could vary within the fabric and edges may not be aligned.

11.16 Auto cutter

The auto cutter consisted of a bristled surface to prevent damage to knife as it passed through
the lay reaching the cutting. A polythene sheet covered the top of the lay and was held by 140
bar air pressure. It created vacuum which prevented the displacement of fabric plies during
cutting. The maximum height of the lay depended on the height of the cutting bowl (4 inch)
and was 3.5 inches. The number of plies changed according to the GSM of the fabric, but the
height remained the same.

The blade used in the auto cutter was straight knife blade and its direction and
location could be changed manually using the display system. The auto cutter
followed the marker and cut each piece accordingly.

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After the cutting had been performed, the panels were moved to another table using conveyer
belts. The worker picked the panels manually to the other table and matched each piece with
the graded patterns. Stickers with numbers on them allotted according to the marker were also
placed on the panel pieces separately to avoid mixing of the garment parts. Every panel of a
single garment was allotted the same number.

The cut panels were loaded into the trolleys and delivered to the bundling section.

11.17 Manual cutter

In manual cutting, straight knife cutting machine was being used. The lay height of
manual cutter was 10-12 inch. The plotted marker was placed on top of the lay and held in
place using tape. The operator manually operated the straight knife cutter and cut the garment

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pieces according to the marker. The efficiency of cutting depended wholly on the operator’s
expertise.

Band knife cutting machine was also being used to cut small and complex components which
were difficult to cut on both auto cutter and straight knife cutter. A single operator was allotted
to the machine who cut the pieces as directed.

11.18 Trim section

Trims are components that are a part of the garment itself but are attached and formed
separately such as rib collar, cuffs, neck etc. the trims were being cut separately in the trim
section. Both the spreading and cutting were being done manually using straight knife cutter.
The cut trims were then sent to bundling.

11.19 Bundling
The type of bundling being followed at Kay and Emms was cake bundling. In cake
bundling, the cut panels from different rolls were bundled together while turning the face upside
down with each roll. The cake bundle is converted into roll-to-roll bundle on reaching the sewing
area. The bundle is scanned and the weight of one piece is extracted. This is the base bundle and
because of this, the weight of the next bundle is checked whether the components are less or
more than that in previous bundle.
The fabric panels that had to be printed or embroidered were then sent to the respective or
embroidered were then sent to the respective sections and the remaining were to that garment
was kept in waiting.

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11.20 Induction store

The bundles that were completed with all panels were then sent to the induction store from
where the bundles were sent to the sewing station.

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 12. Stitching
At this department, the garment panels were joined together according to the specific
operation breakdowns.
12.1 Process flow

stitching stitching threading Endline

Feeding Inline QC
and sewing and sewing machine table

Super
Pressing Offline table checking Specs table QA audit table Final QC audit

12.2 Feeding
The bundles from induction were separated into 6 panels. This means that panels of 6
garments were separated from each other into baskets and fed to the line.
12.3 Stitching and sewing
The panels were than sewn according to the operation breakdown.

12.4 Inline QC
The inline QC checked the stitched garment panels from different sewing machine
operators for faults. A 7-0 system was being followed in which 7 pieces were randomly
checked from one workstation and 0 faults were tolerated. If any fault was detected, according
to traffic light system (TLS), the workstation was allotted red color. After an hour, the pieces
from that workstation were checked again. If the fault prevailed, the operator was given a
warning for the day. If the fault improved, yellow card was allotted to the workstation.
Similarly, after an hour, the pieces were checked again and if there were no faults, the
workstation was allotted green color.
12.5 Threading machine
At threading machine, the protruding threads on the outer surface of the garment were
trimmed.

12.6 End line table

At the end line table, the stitched garment was checked inside out for faults. The faults
included alter (strip, broken, open seam), stain (dust, oil, gum) and rafu (cut hole, knit hole)

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12.7 Pressing
The garments were then pressed to set the seams and creases. The table had vacuum
installed below which held the garment in place while ironing.
12.8 Offline table
At the offline table, the garment was checked in clockwise direction starting from
bottom. Each worker at the table was allotted a QC number and after checking the garment, the
worker attached a sticker of his QC to the garment.
12.9 Super checking table
The garment was again checked in clockwise direction for center out points and color
shading. For a hoodie, the checking started from the hood moving towards shoulder, armhole,
cuff, side seam, bottom hem and so on. For trousers, the checking started from bottom hem.
12.10 Specs table
The garment’s length and width were checked on the specs table to check the shrinkage
of garment.

12.11 QA (quality audit) table

At QA table, 51 garment pieces were taken out from which 20 random pieces were
checked. Only one fault was allowed and for the second fault, the whole batch was sent back to
QC table.
12.12 Final QC audit
After being passed from the QA table, the 51 pieces were again checked for faults and
if found any, the QA table would be responsible for this.

12.13 Sewing flow efficiency.

Sewing flow efficiency is the peak level of performance that uses least number of
available resources to achieve the sewing target.

12.14 Operation breakdowns

Operation Machine

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 Feeding Manually
Ranglan to back 4-thread overlock
Ranglan to front 4-thread overlock
Armhole stitch 3-thread flat lock
Neck rib attach 4-thread overlock
Back neck tape attach Flat lock
Back neck binding Lockstitch
Back neck tape close with size label Lockstitch
Inline QC Manually
Side seam with care label 4-thread overlock
Cuff attach 4-thread overlock
Bottom rib attach (fold) 4-thread overlock
Cuff top-stitch 3-thread flat lock
Bottom hem top stitch 3-thread flat lock
Neck top stitch (half) 3-thread flat lock
Tag attachment on front bottom rib Lockstitch
Cut small threads from front side Threading machine
Ironing Steam iron
Finishing Offline QC
Final check QA table

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 13. Embroidery
The embroidery division is equipped with the latest computerized machines.
The embroidery division is also equipped with 3 “Borodin” SWF 2 machines computerized
embroidery machines. This division is playing a major role in the growth of export sales.
Supported by top-of-the-line multi heads, 20 heads & 9 colors, Kay & Emms’ Equipped with 12
head channel Embroidery.

 Daily production approx. 5,000 pcs.

 RPM depends on design.
 The length of the machine is 500mm.
 Width of machine 450mm.
 Vilcum software used for designing.
 Tajima is the company name of machine.
 8 heads of machine.
 9 needles in one head.
 If the design is thin RPM is low.

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13.1 Types of Stitches in Embroidery
1. Run Stitch.
2. Zig-zag Stitch.
3. Satin Stitch.
4. Cross Stitch.
5. Tatami Stitch.
6. Shenyl Stitch.
7. Run Stitch.

13.2 Process flow

design on converting feeding dst

customer embroidery sample sample
wilcom design into file to
order department formation approval software dst file machine

attaching feeding quality

embroidered manual ironing for to induction
fabric, fusing frame to control
to frame machine patch threading frame marks section store

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 14. Physical testing lab
In the physical testing lab of Kay & Emms many important tests are applied on the fabrics
according to the different standard methods.
Some of them are listed below.
 Color fastness to perspiration (15-2013)
 Color fastness to light (16.1-2014)
 Fabric analysis: Qualitative (20-2013)
 Water repellency test: spray test (22-2014)
 Color fastness to laundering: Accelerated (61-2013)
 Water repellency: tumble jar dynamic absorption test (70-2015)
 Absorbency of textile (79-2014)
 PH of water coming from wet processes (81-2012)
 Shrinkage (96-2012)
 Abrasion resistance of fabric (93-2011)
 Color fastness to Sea water (106-2013)
 Color fastness to water (107-2013)
 Dimensional change of fabric: Accelerated (187-2013)
 Dimensional change of Garment (150-2012)
 Color fastness to water: chlorinated pool (162-2011)
 Color fastness to dyes transfer in stores (163-2013)
 Skewness (179-2012)

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 15. Packing
After the final quality audit, the garments were passed from metal detector (MD) machine one
by one and then moved to the packing department. The machine beeped on any metal part in
the garment and did not let it pass through.

15.1 PO packing
In this type of packing, the customer order is not packed or shipped at once; in fact, the order is
shipped in batches according to the HIT number given by the customer on the PO. The
HIT number represents the number of pieces to be shipped in one batch. Some of the
information given on the packing list work order is:

• Total number of HITs.

• Number of pieces in one HIT.
• Order of HIT shipment.

Each HIT can have different type of packing. Some of the remaining pieces, known as
the loose pieces, are shipped separately as they do not fit in the carton.
15.2 Types of folding
1. Book fold: The garment was folded while placing an inlet card inside of it.
2. Dead man fold: The garment is folded without placing the card inside.

15.3 Types of polybag packing

1. Single piece polybag: One garment piece is packed in one polybag.
2. Master Polybag: Two or more garment pieces are packed in one polybag.

15.4 Types of carton packing

1. Solid packing: Same color and same size of the garments are packed in one carton.
2. Sorted/ratio packing: Same color and different sizes of the garments are packed in
one carton.

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 3. Catalogue packing: Different colors and sizes of garments are packed in one carton.

16. Merchandising Department

16.1 Merchandising
Merchandising department is a bridge between customer and the organization. All the dealing
from order inquiry to shipment of order is discussed with customer is done by the merchandizer.
Merchandising department is an important department in export-oriented industry or
organization. The merchandising department is in contact with the existing customers and
communicates with them to obtain different orders. The merchandising department is linked with
all departments of the organization and works with them for timely and quality production and
shipment of order. In Kay & Emm’s, Merchandising department is well established.

16.2 Role of Merchandiser

As merchandiser is a bridge between customer and organization, he or she must look after every
job within the organization or factory (like placement of order for fabric or fabrication,
accessories buying order, planning order to PPC and follow up of the order in production stage
and many more) and with the customer (like sample shipment etc..). The role and responsibilities
of merchandiser are:

 Internal & external communication

 Sampling.
 Preparing internal order sheets
 Accessories & trims in-housing
 Preparing purchase orders.
 Getting approvals on lab dips
 Advising and assisting production and quality department.
 Taking responsibility for inspections.
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipment.

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16.3 Working of Merchandiser:
Merchandising starts with the inquiry of an order from a customer. First, customers sent us the
Tech Pack of the garment and asked us for Prototype Sample and cost of the garments. The
merchandiser makes the sample with the help of sample room and the costing in done by costing
person within the PD department. After the approval of Prototype sample, customer ask us for Fit
Sample, Lab Dips, and Accessories card. The merchandiser sends these things to customer. After
approval of these, customer placed an order. The merchandiser, after confirmation of order, plans
the things within the organization. PP Sample is sent before starting production. Production is
started as production schedule. The last sample is TOP Sample which is a production sample and
after approval of this sample, order is sent for quality and audit. After this step, order is shipped
by air or sea.

16.4 Process flow of Merchandising

Inquiry

Proto-Type Sample + Costing

Fit Sample + Lab Dips

Order Confirmation

PP Meeting

PP Sample

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 TOP Sample

Shipment
16.5 Two types of merchandising done in garment exports.
1) Marketing merchandising.
2) Product merchandising.
16.5.1 Marketing Merchandising
Main function of market merchandising is.
 Product Development
 Costing
 Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct contact
with the buyer.
16.5.2 Product Merchandising:
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e., first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.
Merchandiser’s key responsibilities are as follows...
 Product Development.
 Market and product Analysis.
 Selling the concepts.
 Booking order.
 Confirming Deliveries.
 Costing.
 Raw Material.
 Flow Monitoring.
 Production Follow Ups.
 Payments Follows.

16.6 Sampling
Sampling is the Research and Development section of the garment industry. In this
department replicas of the bulk are produced. The samples are produced according to the

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spec sheet in single size and sent for buyer approval; the sample is the representative of the
whole bulk. This initiates the actual production. The sampling process is responsible for
monitoring quality at minimum cost. The samples garment is prepared in the sampling
department with great care because these samples represent the capability of the company
and to procure orders to the company. This is done very cautiously checking every minute
thing getting the sample to perfection as per the buyer’s requirements in the spec sheet.

16.7 Costing

Costing includes all the activities like purchase of raw materials and accessories, knitting
fabrics, processing, and finishing of fabrics, sewing, and packing of garments, transport and
conveyance, shipping, overheads, banking charges and commissions, etc. The method of
making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments,
it is not possible here to discuss all the styles. Hence let us take some following styles as
examples which are in regular use.

We must find out the following things.

 Fabric consumption
 Gross weight of other components of garment.
 Fabric cost per kg.
 Fabric cost per garment.
 Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)
 Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc.

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 17. EXPORT/IMPORT/ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT.

There are three modes of shipment land air and sea plays a major role in our economy. Each
offers benefits that the other mode of transport might not offer.it is up to you to make a well-
informed decision of choosing the right shipping mode that will benefit your business. These are
the export shipment documents are.
1. Bill of Lading

The bill of lading is usually the first common document used in international shipment and it is a
contract between the owner of the goods and the carrier. It will state what goods are shipping,
where they are going and where the shipment started. In addition, once the shipment is picked
up, the bill of lading serves as a receipt issued by the carrier.

2. Certificate of Manufacturer

This is a notarized document certifying that the goods have been produced by the manufacturer,
fulfills the general product requirements and is ready for shipment.

3. Certificate of Origin

This document is prepared by the manufacturer and is certified by a government entity or

chamber of commerce. It’s used to identify the country of the manufacturer where the goods
were made. For example, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration requires a certificate of origin
for every product imported to the US.

4. Commercial Invoice

When the international sale is complete and goods are ready to be shipped out, a commercial
invoice is the document used to describe the entire export transaction from beginning to end
including the shipping terms. It is one of the most important documents because it provides
critical information and instructions to all parties involved: buyer, freight forwarder, U.S., and
foreign customs, import broker, banks, carriers, etc. Many countries may require specific
invoices or licenses, so if not done correctly, U.S. businesses will incur fees or delays in
shipments.

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 5. Consular Invoice

A consular invoice is a form available through a consular representative of the country you’re
shipping to, and it certifies the shipment of goods. It is not required in every country but is used
to help many emerging nations facilitate customs and collection of taxes.

6. Dock Receipts

The purpose of this receipt is to provide the exporter with proof that the delivery of goods to the
international carrier was successful and in good condition.

7. Inspection Certificate

These inspections are usually done with industrial equipment, perishable merchandise, and meat
products. It certifies the items were received in good condition and that the shipment contained
the correct quantity.

8. Insurance Certificate

For export shipments, this document certifies you have bought an insurance policy for cargo on
board. Insurance may be purchased because liability and large losses are a concern to the
exporter.

9. Packing List

A packing list is like a shipping list in that it lists the goods being shipped, information on how it
was packed, how the goods are numbered, and weight/height dimensions. Even though it’s not
always required, it’s an important document used by freight forwarders to prepare a bill of lading
and to understand how much cargo is needed.

10. Electronic Export Information (EEI)

A required government online form for all exports more than $2,500 or ones that require an
export license. The EEI must be filed with the U.S. Census Bureau to collect trade statistics and
apply export controls.
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Importance of Having Accurate Packing Lists
Working at a business that is trading goods internationally means you’re dealing with tons of
shipments. Amidst all those shipments, it can be difficult to keep a keen eye out for every single
detail about all individual products loaded into a container. If your company is wondering about
the purpose for packing lists as well as why you should be incredibly vigilant that all details are
correct on these documents, here are a few general reasons:

1) Customs Cargo Exams

U.S Customs frequently conduct cargo exams. These often take one of three forms:

1. Document Exam: A document exam is when U.S. Customs will arbitrarily select a
container/shipment and examine all associated paperwork with the cargo. If
everything goes smoothly, the cargo will be released from the Customs exam
often within hours. It’s a relatively short process.
2. Container Exam: Customs may also choose to pull a container and open it to
verify that everything stated in the documentation is in the container. This
examination process can take anywhere from 1-3 days, causing cargo delays.
3. Full Shipment Inspection: The most extreme version of a cargo exam involves
U.S. Customs removing all products from a container and individually inspecting
all cargo. This can delay a shipment anywhere from 4 days to two weeks in
extreme cases.

All the above exams involve cross referencing documentation to ensure that cargo is both
eligible for entry to the U.S. as well as accurately reflected in associated shipment paperwork.
The easiest document to verify is a packing list.

If a packing list does not accurately reflect the findings of a Customs exam on a container,
shippers could be in huge trouble. This can lead to huge fines or delays, which leads to the next
point…

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2. Shipment Delays

Accurate documentation isn’t just a matter of legality. While you could certainly be fined
extensively for inaccurate documentation, you will also most likely have to deal with shipment
delays. Either Customs will require that you send proper documentation their way for cargo re-
evaluation, or the cargo will be rejected entirely, requiring you to pick up the cargo and redo all
paperwork. In either case, you’re dealing with major shipping delays.

3. Customer Returns

If you’re just working with one customer overseas whom you are in close connection with and
that already knows all specifics of the cargo being sent, you may not run into issues with
inaccurate packing lists. However, when dealing with larger corporations, you can’t bank on the
purchasing manager you spoke with, being the one who receives the cargo at the dock.
Unfortunately, a customer inspection revealing inconsistencies between your packing lists and
cargo may result in cargo returns, leaving you to pay for shipping twice and potentially end up in
legal trouble.

The 7 Types of LTL Carriers

Even though the LTL market has far fewer carriers than the full truckload market, there are
several different business models, each creating a unique blend of cost, service, and speed.

Most shippers work with several different LTL providers to create the right
balance of capacity and rates.

There is no magic number — your ideal carrier mix will depend on your specific needs, but
understanding each type will help you set a better strategy.

Keep in mind that each carrier’s network is different, and they may not cleanly fall into one
category.

1. National LTL Carriers:

National LTL carriers provide coast-to-coast and border-to-border coverage. They operate dense
freight networks that usually run on a hub-and-spoke model of terminals and drivers.

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Some carriers’ networks may have coverage voids where no service is provided — in these
cases, they may rely on partner carriers to provide final delivery service.

National Carriers are large, often publicly traded companies with sophisticated business
operations. They are the most common and recognizable type of LTL carriers.

Examples: Estes Express Lines, R&L, YRC, Old Dominion Freight Line

When to use National LTL Carriers:

With their large, expansive networks, it is generally a good idea to use at least one National
carrier in your mix to maximize coverage.

Their density and scale can lead to competitive pricing in certain lanes, but the key benefit is
coverage.

National carriers make it easier to consolidate and streamline your LTL freight — instead of
finding the right carrier in each region, this offers a one-stop-shop approach. This is particularly
beneficial for shippers that move LTL freight all over North America.

Potential drawbacks:

Bigger isn’t always better.

Though they may provide coast-to-coast coverage, each National carrier’s networks will have
strengths and weaknesses — rates and service levels in certain lanes may not be as strong
compared to more specialized carriers.

Also, if you are a smaller shipper with low volume, you’re a little fish in a big pond and it will be
harder (or potentially impossible) to secure preferential pricing.

2. Multi-Regional LTL Carriers

Multi-regional LTL Carriers service large areas made up of two or more regions. In terms of
coverage, they fall between a National and a Regional carrier.

Examples: AAA Cooper, Averitt Express, Dayton Freight Lines

When to use Multi-Regional LTL Carriers:

This is a good way to split the difference between a National and a Regional provider.
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You can add increased coverage and capacity while still taking advantage of the carrier’s more
focused network strengths.

Multi-regional carriers are a great option when you have shipments spanning a few states, but do
not need full coast-to-coast coverage.

Potential drawbacks:

Though you can access the benefits of both National and Regional carriers (wider coverage,
more focused network), you also get some of the cons (you’re a small fish in a bigger pond, and
if you have freight outside their coverage, you may need to use another provider).

3. Regional LTL Carriers

Regional LTL carriers service a group of states within a defined area.

They will typically have a strong presence and a dense network within their region, operating
several facilities. Outside of their region, they generally do not offer coverage. They are a very
common type of LTL carrier.

Examples: A Due Pyle, Pitt Ohio, Ward Transport

When to use Regional LTL Carriers:

If you have freight picking up and delivering within a regional carrier’s coverage area, you may
be able to access competitive pricing and higher service. This is especially true if you have
consistent LTL freight in a regional carrier’s area.

Potential drawbacks:

It can be more difficult to manage which carriers service which regions, and if you have
shipments outside of their coverage area, you will need to source another provider.

Also, compared to National carriers, regional carriers are usually smaller, and may not have as
much capacity or as sophisticated technology.

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4. Sub-Regional Carriers

Sub-regional LTL carriers service a distinct part of a region.

Examples: Southwestern Motor Transport, Pace Motor Lines

When to use Sub-Regional LTL Carriers:

These carriers are a great option when you have LTL shipments that are not travelling long
distances.

If you are within their service area, Sub-regional carriers can offer competitive service and rates.

Since they tend to be smaller in size, it is more likely that you can secure preferential pricing for
consistent volume moving within their service footprint.

Potential drawbacks:

Sub-regional carriers have a small coverage area, so they will likely only play a niche role in
your LTL network.

5. Asset-Light LTL Carriers

Asset-light LTL carriers try to maximize their coverage area while minimizing the number of
trucks, drivers, and terminals they own. They do this by relying on the driver capacity of other
truckload and LTL providers.

Asset-light carriers will usually complete long-haul hub transfers using intermodal or full
truckload shipping, then outsource the final-mile deliveries to regional or sub-regional LTL
carriers.

They are much less common than national, multi-regional and regional carriers.

Because asset-light carriers often use intermodal providers to connect pickup point to
destination, transit times are generally longer than typical LTL shipping.

Examples: Clear Lane Freight, Frontline Freight

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When to use Asset Light LTL Carriers:

By focusing on efficiency, asset-light carriers are one of the most budget-friendly options. When
you want to have wide coverage, minimize the number of carriers you use and save the most
money, they are a good option to investigate.

Potential drawbacks:

Your product may be handled more often, pass through more than one carrier, and may ride on
the rail via intermodal. This will often add up to longer transits, more product handling, and less
control of your product while in transit.

6. Load-to-Ride LTL Carriers:

Load-to-ride LTL carriers focus on bulky and/or long-range shipments.

These carriers operate somewhat like multi-stop truckload carriers, in that one driver will pick up
multiple shippers’ freight and deliver them straight through — there are less (or no) stops at
terminals, and more direct delivery routes.

Additionally, long-range shipments eliminate the need for excessive product handling, which is
an added benefit for shippers with sensitive commodities.

Example: Sunset Pacific Transportation, shared

When to use Load-to-Ride LTL Carriers:

Whenever you have a long-range shipment (crossing over multiple regions) and are willing to be
flexible to fit the carriers’ schedule, load-to-ride carriers can offer competitive rates, quick
service, and less product handling.

Potential drawbacks:

Exact capacity and coverage are much more limited. Load-to-ride carriers will be a niche
provider, adding value only on the opportunities that sync well with their network.

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7. Reefer LTL Carriers

Refer LTL carriers operate similarly to load-to-ride carriers, in that they focus on long-range
shipments and rarely transfer products in terminals.

The main difference is that reefer LTL commodities must all have the same temperature
requirements.

Air freight is much faster than shipping freight. Especially when ships have already slowed down
to the pace of sailing clipper to save on fuel. And when confidence in the ocean shipping market
is looking a little shaky compared to air.
But the freight cost covers that speed difference. Shipping your goods in a plane is speedy but
pricey.

The good thing is there are ways to optimize your air freight routine to reduce the transport costs,
and we are going to share these tricks with you.

1. Space Out Your Shipping

More cargo, less often. That’s the golden rule to keep air freight costs low.

There are two main things to consider when pricing up a freight job: the distance of weight of
whatever you’re shipping.
If you send lots of small and light packages, the price you pay covers the distance factor each
time. If you combine these into one large shipment, you’ll pay a lump sum all at once, but it’ll
probably be cheaper overall than the first option.

Of course, while it’s ideal if you’re able to space out your shipping, that doesn’t match up with
every business’ needs. Or it might not match up with your cash flow. So, if this isn’t for you,
how else can you keep those air freight costs low?

2. Use a Consolidation Shipping Service

Consolidation services take small packages and bundle them together in the ‘spare space’ within
other shipments.

This is an ideal solution for any business that can’t avoid sending relatively small packages on a
regular basis.

Rather than paying for your own, expensive, shipping space, you ‘fill in the gaps’ in another
shipment, paying only for what you use. The company sending the larger shipment saves money
by not paying for empty space, and you get a great shipping cost.

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3. Negotiate a Long-Term Agreement:
To cut down on the amount you spend on shipping, don’t just keep using the same service. But
we don’t necessarily mean to shop around for a better price.

Developing a relationship is more valuable than the short-term gains of looking at other
providers. Talk to your regular provider about setting up an agreement which benefits you both
in the long term.

You may be able to make a commitment to ship a set amount of goods each month, for example.
If that’s the case, to ‘lock in’ that business for themselves, the courier service is likely to be able
to negotiate with you on the price.

4. Prioritize and Keep Freight Costs Low

One other way to keep overall shipping costs low is to prioritize your shipments by order of
urgency. Things that can’t wait go by air. Things that can wait go by road or boat, whichever is
suitable.

Using a mix of transportation solutions means that only your urgent shipments cost you air
freight prices.

It’s a simple and easy way to save money. Just make sure all staff involved in your shipping
process know what types of shipments take priority.

5. Do You Need All That Packaging?

We understand that people are a little more cautious when shipping by air. Airplanes’ speed and
the potential for turbulence make many customers a little nervous when shipping their precious
cargo.

But in many cases, the packaging we see is just a little over the top.

Take a proportionate view of the risk of damaged goods. If you’re shipping very sturdy items,
save cash by stripping back some of the packaging. You’ll save both on weight and on the
packaging materials themselves.

If you’d like some advice on suitable packaging for your needs, just ask us.

6. Let the Carrier Pick Up Later On:

Most businesses have closed shop by around six in the evening. Which means the carrier can’t
pick up their goods.

Reduce transport costs by allowing them to come by later. When you do this, you’re helping to
maximize their efficiency – as they can pick up more items in a day. So, they might be able to
offer you a better price.
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It can also be a good way to build a good relationship with the carrier. Which in turn should
affect the rates you’re offered.

Of course, if you’re not willing to hang around yourself, you’ll have to pay staff to stay on until
later in the evening. Do the math and make sure it still makes financial sense.

7. Ship Off-Peak:
Some days are more expensive than others. This depends on demand, though it’s generally the
case that Friday is the cheapest day to ship on.

This is because many recipients want to be stocked for the weekend rush and will be looking to
receive goods on Thursday or Friday. These need to be shipped on Wednesday or Thursday.

So, if your shipment can wait until Friday, you might bag yourself a better deal.

8. Outsource Transport Needs:

A small business probably doesn’t have much call for a freight team.

Outsource your shipping management needs to a reliable logistics company. They’ll sort
everything out for you at a fraction of the cost of a full-time member(s) of staff.

Plus, they already have the in-house expertise to keep all your logistical needs running smoothly.

What Is a Letter of Credit?

A letter of credit, or a credit letter, is a letter from a bank guaranteeing that a buyer’s payment to
a seller will be received on time and for the correct amount. If the buyer is unable to make a
payment on the purchase, the bank will be required to cover the full or remaining amount of the
purchase. It may be offered as a facility (financial assistance that is essentially a loan).

Due to the nature of international dealings, including factors such as distance, differing laws in
each country, and difficulty in knowing each party personally, the use of letters of credit has
become a very important aspect of international trade.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

 A letter of credit is a document sent from a bank or financial institute that guarantees
that a seller will receive a buyer’s payment on time and for the full amount.
 Letters of credit are often used within the international trade industry.
 There are many different letters of credit including one called a revolving letter of credit.
 Banks collect a fee for issuing a letter of credit.

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 CONCLUSION
After critical and deep study of all types of production systems that are used in apparel
industry and comparison of production systems with respect to productivity were allied the
importance of a good production system in sewing unit. An efficient production system can
be used to reduce the off-standard performance and increase the on-standard performance.
Since the function of sewing department mainly depends on the type of production system,
its correct choice cannot be further emphasized. Handling time is a major part of sewing
operation which can be minimized as the needle time remains constant in all types of
systems. Production systems are the key success factor for every company to reduce the cost
and boost the efficiency and productivity of sewing unit.

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