PHILIPPINE NATIVE

DELICACIES
EXPLORING KAKANIN IN THE PHILIPPINES
 WHAT IS A KAKANIN?
• THESE DESSERTS CALLED “KAKANIN”,
NAMED AFTER THEIR MAIN INGREDIENT
(COOKED RICE OR “KANIN”) AND “KAIN”,
WHICH PLAINLY MEANS “TO EAT”
• WITH MOST TYPES MADE WITH A FEW ELEMENTARY INGREDIENTS
– GLUTINOUS RICE, WATER, SUGAR, DERIVATIVES OF COCONUT,
BUTTER, AND SESAME SEEDS (WITH OTHER INGREDIENTS SUCH
AS EGG, CASSAVA, AND POTATO ADDED ACCORDING TO LOCAL
SPIN) – THEN WRAPPED IN THE SAME BANANA OR PALM LEAVES,
THE VARIETIES OF KAKANIN APPEAR TO BE CLOYINGLY
REDUNDANT AND UNINTERESTING. BUT THE NUANCES IN
MEASUREMENTS AND PROPORTIONS, THE TYPE OF RICE, THE
WAY THE RICE IS GROUND, THE WAY COCONUT MILK IS
EXTRACTED, AND HOW IT IS FINALLY COOKED GIVES THE NATIVE
DELICACY AN INFINITE NUMBER OF ENJOYABLE POSSIBILITIES
• AS THE NAME KAKANIN IS DERIVED FROM TWO TAGALOG
WORDS: “KAIN” (TO EAT) AND “KANIN” (RICE). IT’S AN
UMBRELLA TERM FOR SWEETS MADE OF GLUTINOUS RICE AND
COCONUT MILK, TWO INGREDIENTS THAT TROPICAL COUNTRIES
LIKE OURS HAVE IN ABUNDANCE. THESE INGREDIENTS ARE
USUALLY EMPLOYED IN ONE OF TWO FORMS. SOME RECIPES
USE GALAPONG, MADE BY SOAKING RICE FLOUR OVERNIGHT,
THEN GRINDING AND STRAINING IT USING A CHEESECLOTH.
OTHER TYPES OF KAKANIN USE SIMPLE MALAGKIT OR STICKY
RICE GRAINS THAT ARE EITHER GROUND UP OR LEFT WHOLE.
 INGREDIENTS USED
• KANING MALAGKIT- A TYPE OF RICE DIFFERENT TO THE
COMMON RICE USED IN MEALS. THIS RICE IS STICKIER AND
IS USED PRIMARILY IN MAKING NATIVE KAKANINS.
• GALAPONG- MADE BY SOAKING RICE FLOUR OVERNIGHT,
THEN GRINDING AND STRAINING IT USING A CHEESECLOTH.
• PLAIN MALAGKIT- RICE LEFT WHOLE (SOMETIMES SOAKED
OVERNIGHT FOR AN EASIER AND SHORTER COOKING.
• COCONUT (NIYOG)-
• AN OLD COCONUT NORMALLY
OF BROWNISH COLOR USED PRIMARILY
FOR ITS MILK.

•COCONUT CREAM-
• THE FIRST PRODUCTION OF THE COCONUT MEAT. THIS PHASE OF EXTRACTING LIQUID
FROM THE COCONUT IS NORMALLY MORE THICKER THAN THE SECOND EXTRACTION OF
LIQUID FROM THE GRATED COCONUT MEAT. DONE BY GRATING THE MEAT AND ADDING
A LITTLE BIT OF HOT WATER UNTIL EXTRACTED BY A MACHINE OR MANUALLY.

• COCONUT MILK- THIS IS THE SECOND PRODUCTION OF THE COCONUT

MEAT. IT IS LIGHTER IN TEXTURE THAN THE COCONUT CREAM.
 SUGAR
• ALL SUGAR IS MADE BY FIRST EXTRACTING SUGAR JUICE
FROM SUGAR BEET OR SUGAR CANE PLANTS, AND FROM
THERE, MANY TYPES OF SUGAR CAN BE PRODUCED.
THROUGH SLIGHT ADJUSTMENTS IN THE PROCESS OF
CLEANING, CRYSTALLIZING AND DRYING THE SUGAR AND
VARYING THE LEVEL OF MOLASSES, DIFFERENT SUGAR
VARIETIES ARE POSSIBLE. SUGARS OF VARIOUS CRYSTAL
SIZES PROVIDE UNIQUE FUNCTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS
THAT MAKE THE SUGAR SUITABLE FOR DIFFERENT FOODS
AND BEVERAGES. SUGAR COLOR IS PRIMARILY
DETERMINED BY THE AMOUNT OF MOLASSES REMAINING
ON OR ADDED TO THE CRYSTALS, GIVING PLEASURABLE
FLAVORS AND ALTERING MOISTURE. HEATING SUGAR
ALSO CHANGES THE COLOR AND FLAVOR
REGULAR WHITE OR GRANULATED SUGAR
• THIS IS WHAT YOU TYPICALLY FIND IN YOUR SUGAR
BOWL.
• IT’S THE MOST COMMON SUGAR CALLED FOR IN
RECIPES WHEN COOKING AND BAKING.
• “REGULAR” SUGAR GRANULES ARE FINE BECAUSE
SMALL CRYSTALS ARE IDEAL FOR BULK HANDLING AND
NOT SUSCEPTIBLE TO CAKING.
 CONFECTIONER’S OR
POWDERED SUGAR
• POWDERED SUGAR IS SIMPLY GRANULATED SUGAR GROUND TO A
SMOOTH POWDER AND THEN SIFTED.
• COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE POWDERED SUGAR IS MIXED WITH A
SMALL AMOUNT OF CORNSTARCH (3%) TO PREVENT CAKING.
• IT IS OFTEN USED IN ICINGS, CONFECTIONS AND WHIPPING
CREAM.
• YOU CAN MAKE IT AT HOME: BLEND 1 CUP OF WHITE SUGAR AND
1 TABLESPOON OF CORNSTARCH TO GET 1 CUP OF POWDERED
SUGAR.
 FRUIT SUGAR
• FRUIT SUGAR IS SMALLER AND MORE UNIFORM IN CRYSTAL SIZE
THAN REGULAR SUGAR.
• IT IS USED IN DRY MIXES, SUCH AS GELATIN AND PUDDING
DESSERTS OR POWDERED DRINKS.
• THE UNIFORMITY OF CRYSTAL SIZE PREVENTS SETTLING OF THE
SUGAR CRYSTALS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BOX, AN IMPORTANT
QUALITY IN DRY MIXES.
 BAKER’S SPECIAL SUGAR
• THE CRYSTAL SIZE OF BAKER’S SPECIAL SUGAR IS FINER THAN THAT
OF FRUIT SUGAR.
• AS ITS NAME SUGGESTS, IT WAS DEVELOPED ESPECIALLY FOR THE
BAKING INDUSTRY.
• THIS SUGAR IS USED FOR SUGARING DONUTS AND COOKIES, AND
IT’S USED IN SOME CAKE RECIPES TO CREATE A FINE CRUMB
TEXTURE.
 COARSE SUGAR
• COARSE SUGAR HAS A LARGER CRYSTAL SIZE THAN REGULAR
SUGAR.
• IT RESULTS FROM THE CRYSTALLIZATION OF MOLASSES-RICH
SUGAR SYRUPS THAT ARE HIGH IN SUCROSE.
• THE LARGE CRYSTAL SIZE MAKES IT HIGHLY RESISTANT TO COLOR
CHANGE OR INVERSION (NATURAL BREAKDOWN TO FRUCTOSE
AND GLUCOSE) AT COOKING AND BAKING TEMPERATURES,
IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTICS FOR USE IN MAKING FONDANTS,
CONFECTIONS AND LIQUORS.
 SANDING SUGAR
• SANDING SUGAR CAN HAVE LARGE OR FINE
CRYSTALS—BOTH TYPES REFLECT LIGHT AND GIVE
THE PRODUCT A SPARKLING APPEARANCE.
• IT IS USED MAINLY IN BAKING AND CONFECTIONERY
AS A SPRINKLE ON TOP OF BAKED GOODS (OFTEN
IN FUN COLORS!).
 BROWN SUGAR
• BROWN SUGARS ARE EITHER MADE BY DIRECTLY BOILING A BROWN SUGAR
SYRUP OR MIXING WHITE SUGAR WITH VARIOUS AMOUNTS OF MOLASSES.
• LIGHT BROWN SUGAR IS OFTEN USED IN SAUCES AND MOST BAKED GOODS.
• DARK BROWN SUGAR HAS A DEEPER COLOR AND STRONGER MOLASSES
FLAVOR THAN LIGHT BROWN SUGAR—THE RICH, FULL FLAVOR MAKES IT IDEAL
FOR GINGERBREAD, BAKED BEANS, BARBECUING AND OTHER FULL-FLAVORED
FOODS.
• BROWN SUGARS TEND TO CLUMP BECAUSE THEY CONTAIN MORE MOISTURE
THAN WHITE SUGARS, ALLOWING BAKED GOODS TO RETAIN MOISTURE WELL
AND STAY CHEWY.
 TURBINADO SUGAR
• TURBINADO SUGAR (SOMETIMES KNOWN AS DEMERARA SUGAR OR RAW
CANE SUGAR) IS A PARTIALLY PROCESSED SUGAR WHICH RETAINS MORE OF
THE NATURALLY PRESENT MOLASSES.
• IT HAS A BLOND COLOR, MILD BROWN SUGAR FLAVOR AND LARGER
CRYSTALS THAN BROWN SUGARS USED IN BAKING.
• TURBINADO SUGAR IS THE SUGAR IN YOUR PACKET OF “RAW CANE SUGAR.”
THIS TYPE OF SUGAR HAS BEEN PROCESSED JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT SAFE
TO EAT.
 MUSCOVADO SUGAR
• ALSO KNOWN AS BARBADOS SUGAR, MUSCOVADO SUGAR IS AN
UNREFINED CANE SUGAR IN WHICH THE MOLASSES HAS NOT BEEN
REMOVED.
• IT IS VERY DARK BROWN AND HAS A PARTICULARLY STRONG
MOLASSES FLAVOR.
• THE CRYSTALS ARE SLIGHTLY COARSER AND STICKIER THAN
REGULAR BROWN SUGAR, GIVING THIS SUGAR A SANDY TEXTURE.
 FREE FLOWING SUGAR
• ALSO KNOWN AS GRANULATED BROWN SUGAR, THIS POWDER-LIKE BROWN
SUGAR IS LESS MOIST THAN REGULAR BROWN SUGAR.
• SINCE IT IS LESS MOIST, IT DOES NOT CLUMP AND IS FREE FLOWING, LIKE
WHITE SUGAR.
• TO GET THE BROWN SUGAR TASTE IN A FREE FLOWING PRODUCT, THE SUGAR
UNDERGOES A SPECIAL PROCESS MAKING THE SUGAR VERY LOW MOISTURE.
• AS IT IS SO EASY TO MEASURE AND SPRINKLE, FREE-FLOWING BROWN SUGAR
IS GREAT FOR TOPPING ON CEREALS AND OATMEAL.
SOME FAMOUS
KAKANIN
 BIKO
• A MAINSTAY AT TOWN FIESTAS,
WEDDINGS, AND FUNERALS, BIKO IS WHAT
USUALLY COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU
HEAR THE WORD “KAKANIN.” THESE RICE
CAKES ARE MADE WITH MALAGKIT RICE
AND COCONUT MILK, WITH A DARK
BROWN TOPPING. GOOEY, STICKY, AND
WITH A DISTINCT, NUTTY
SWEETNESS, BIKO IS ONE DELICACY THAT’S
DIFFICULT TO PUT DOWN AFTER YOU’VE
HAD A BITE.
• BIKO TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE COFFEE-COLORED,
SWEET COCONUT CURD THAT GIVES IT ITS
DISTINCTIVE FLAVOR. THE STICKY CAKES ARE ALSO
SOMETIMES REFERRED TO AS KALAMAY, ALTHOUGH,
STRICTLY SPEAKING, THE TERM ONLY PERTAINS TO
THE COCONUT MILK, BROWN SUGAR, AND
GLUTINOUS RICE POWDER MIXTURE THAT IS
SOMETIMES SPREAD OVER THE BIKO.
 PUTO
• ARGUABLY THE MOST POPULAR KAKANIN,
THIS STEAMED RICE CAKE IS TRADITIONALLY
WHITE IN COLOR, ALTHOUGH IT CAN ALSO
BE TINGED GREEN OR PURPLE TO INDICATE
THAT ITS BEEN FLAVORED
WITH PANDAN OR UBE, RESPECTIVELY. LIKE
THE FRENCH BAGUETTE, IT IS SOMETIMES
EATEN ALONGSIDE SAVORY VIANDS, MOST
NOTABLY THE DINUGUAN. CHOICE TOPPINGS
FOR PUTO RANGE FROM A SINGLE STRIP OF
CHEESE TO A SLICE OF SALTED EGG.
• THE WORD PUTO IS DERIVED FROM THE MALAY WORD PUTTU,
WHICH LITERALLY MEANS “PORTIONED.” THE REGIONAL
VARIANTS OF THE STEAMED CAKE TAKE THEIR NAMES FROM
EITHER THEIR APPEARANCE OR THEIR MOST NOTABLE
FEATURE. PUTO BUMBONG, FOR EXAMPLE, IS NAMED AFTER THE
CHIMNEY-LIKE CONTRAPTION USED TO COOK IT, PUTO
SECO TRANSLATES TO “DRY PUTO” IN SPANISH (A NOD TO THIS
VARIANT’S BISCUIT-LIKE TEXTURE), AND BITE-SIZED CAKES STUFFED
WITH A SWEET MEAT FILLING ARE CALLED PUTO PAO AS A
TRIBUTE TO THE CHINESE MEAT BUN THAT INSPIRED THEIR
CREATION.
 SAPIN-SAPIN
• MADE WITH GALAPONG, COCONUT MILK,
SUGAR, CONDENSED MILK, AND AN
OCCASIONAL UBE/LANGKA/CHEESE FLAVORING,
THIS FESTIVE AND COLORFUL DISH IS SOMETIMES
REFERRED TO AS A SWEETENED AND COCONUT-
INFUSED BLANCMANGE BY FOREIGNERS WHO
ENCOUNTER IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. IT HAS A
DENSE, PUDDING-LIKE TEXTURE, AND IS OFTEN
SEEN AT SOCIAL GATHERINGS LIKE FIESTAS,
SCHOOL EVENTS, CHRISTMAS PARTIES,
BIRTHDAYS AND BARANGAY ELECTION VICTORY
BANQUETS.
• SAPIN-SAPIN IS AN OLD TAGALOG WORD FOR
“LAYERS,” A WORD WHICH EVOKES THIS STICKY
DESSERT’S APPEARANCE AND TASTE. THE NAME
ALSO HINTS AT ITS METHOD OF PREPARATION.
WHEN MAKING SAPIN-SAPIN, ONE MUST MAKE
SURE THAT EACH LAYER OF THE GLUTINOUS RICE
BATTER IS ALLOWED TO STEAM AND SET BEFORE THE
NEXT LAYER IS POURED IN TO KEEP THE VIBRANT
COLORS AND FLAVORS SEPARATE AND INTACT.
 GINATAANG BILO-BILO
• AFTERNOONS SPENT AT LOLA’S HOUSE IN THE
PROVINCE AREN’T COMPLETE WITHOUT A
BOWL OF THIS STAPLE COMFORT
FOOD. GINATAANG BILO-BILO IS ESSENTIALLY A
MIXTURE OF DICED ROOT VEGETABLES (SUCH
AS KAMOTE OR UBE), BANANAS, AND CHEWY
RICE BALLS. THEY’RE ALL THEN COOKED
TOGETHER IN A SOUPY GRUEL THICKENED WITH
COCONUT MILK (AND THE STARCH FROM THE
SLICED TUBERS). SLICED LANGKA OR JACKFRUIT
IS SOMETIMES ADDED TO GIVE THE DISH A TART
KICK.
• TRANSLATED LITERALLY, GINATAANG BILO-BILO MEANS “RICE BALLS
COOKED IN SWEETENED COCONUT MILK.” GINATAAN IS DERIVED
FROM GATA, THE TAGALOG WORD FOR “COCONUT MILK.” BILO-
BILO COMES FROM THE SOUND THE STICKY RICE BALLS MAKE AS
THEY BOIL AWAY ON A STOVE. THE SYLLABLES ARE JUST REPEATED
BECAUSE THIS SUPPOSEDLY INCREASES THE PROSPERITY THE BILO-
BILO WILL BRING. (OUR CHINESE FOREBEARS WERE THE ONES
WHO INTRODUCED THE IDEA THAT ROUND, STARCHY DESSERTS
SYMBOLIZE WEALTH STICKING TO ANYONE WHO CONSUMES
THEM. IN ADDITION, THE TRADITION OF DOUBLING UP THE
SYLLABLES IN THE DISH’S NAME IS SAID TO STRENGTHEN ITS
POWER).
 SUMAN
• SUMAN IS THE COUNTRY’S QUINTESSENTIAL RICE CAKE. IT IS A
NAME SHARED BY MANY DIFFERENT VARIANTS THAT ARE ALL
MADE FROM GLUTINOUS RICE COOKED IN COCONUT MILK,
WRAPPED TIGHTLY IN PALM LEAVES, AND THEN STEAMED. IT’S
QUITE DELICIOUS ON ITS OWN, BUT THOSE WHO LIKE TO UP
THE ANTE ENJOY IT WITH A SPRINKLING OF SUGAR. OTHERS
EVEN FRY IT FOR AN EVEN RICHER VERSION. (IF THAT’S NOT
INDULGENT ENOUGH FOR YOU, FELY J’S IN GREENBELT 5 MAKES
A MEAN DESSERT WITH SUMAN, RIPE MANGOES,
AND MACAPUNO ICE CREAM).
• LIKE THE PUTO, THERE ARE NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF SUMAN IN
THE COUNTRY. THE MOST POPULAR IS CALLED SUMAN SA LIHIYA,
WHICH IS COMPRISED OF SOAKED GLUTINOUS RICE AND
COCONUT MILK (TREATED WITH LYE) WRAPPED IN BANANA
LEAVES AND BOILED FOR TWO HOURS.
• IT’S SURMISED THAT WHILE THE SUMAN HAS BEEN AROUND FOR
CENTURIES, ITS ORIGINAL NAME MIGHT HAVE BEEN LOST TO HISTORY.
ITS NAME IS ALLEGEDLY ROOTED IN AN OLD SPANISH PHRASE FOR “RICE
CAKES WRAPPED IN LEAVES, WITH SOMEWHAT LONGISH PIECES,” AS
DESCRIBED BY ANTONIO PIGAFETTA, THE CHRONICLER FOR THE FIRST
SPANISH EXPEDITION TO ARRIVE ON PHILIPPINE SHORES. SUMAN’S
REGIONAL VARIANTS, MEANWHILE, DERIVE THEIR NAMES FROM THE
MATERIAL OR METHOD USED TO WRAP THEM. SUMAN SA IBUS ARE RICE
CAKES POURED INTO COIL-SHAPED RECEPTACLES MADE OUT OF YOUNG
PALM LEAVES, WHICH ARE CALLED “IBUS” IN TAGALOG. THE PINAGI, ON
THE OTHER HAND, WAS NAMED AFTER THE PAGI (“STINGRAY” IN
TAGALOG) AS A NOD TO THE COMPLEX, GEOMETRIC SHAPE THAT
RESEMBLES ITS NAMESAKE.
 KUTSINTA
• WHILE AMERICAN KIDS GREW UP ON PEANUT
BUTTER AND JELLY, THEIR FILIPINO
COUNTERPARTS HAD PUTO AND KUTSINTA.
MUCH LIKE THE PUTO, KUTSINTA IS ALSO MADE
WITH GROUND RICE AND SUGAR, WITH THE
ADDITION OF LYE (SODIUM HYDROXIDE) TO GIVE
IT ITS DISTINCT MUDDY YELLOW COLOR AND
JELLY-LIKE TEXTURE. USUALLY SOLD IN PACKS
ALONGSIDE MOUNDS OF PUTO,
THE KUTSINTA IS NORMALLY SERVED TOPPED
WITH GRATED COCONUT.
• THE KUTSINTA WAS THOUGHT TO HAVE SPRUNG UP
AT THE SAME TIME AS ITS PASTY COUNTERPART, BUT
THE ORIGINS OF ITS NAME REMAIN A MYSTERY. IT
HAS BEEN THEORIZED, HOWEVER, THAT ITS NAME
MIGHT HAVE A CONNECTION TO AN OBSOLETE
PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT RESPONSIBLE FOR ITS
FLATTENED, SAUCER-LIKE SHAPE. UNFORTUNATELY,
THE NAME OF THE SAID INSTRUMENT HAS ALSO
BEEN LOST TO HISTORY.
 PALITAW
• STICKY RICE IS WASHED, SOAKED, AND THEN
GROUND TO A FINE POWDER AND THEN MIXED
WITH COCONUT MILK AND SUGAR TO MAKE
THE BATTER FOR THIS FLUFFY, DENSE KAKANIN.
SCOOPS OF THE BATTER ARE THEN DROPPED
INTO BOILING WATER AND LEFT TO COOK
UNTIL THEY FLOAT BACK TO THE SURFACE AS
SOFT, FLAT DISKS. ROLLED IN SESAME SEEDS,
GRATED COCONUT, AND SUGAR, THEY ARE A
FAVORITE AMONG THE YOUNG (AND THE
YOUNG-AT-HEART).
•
• LITAW” MEANS “TO RISE” IN THE VERNACULAR, AND IN THIS CASE, IT REFERS
TO HOW YOU’LL KNOW THE PALITAW IS COOKED AND READY TO BE
TAKEN OUT OF THE POT. COLLOQUIALLY, THE PALITAW IS ALSO CALLED
“DILA-DILA” FOR ITS BROAD, TONGUE-LIKE APPEARANCE (THOUGH I CAN’T
IMAGINE WHY ANYONE WOULD FIND THAT MENTAL IMAGE APPETIZING).
• WITH GLOBALIZATION AND THE EVOLVING LOCAL MARKET DRIVING A LOT
OF INTERNATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS TO OPEN ESTABLISHMENTS HERE,
FILIPINO DINERS ARE INCREASINGLY BEING EXPOSED TO AND DEVELOPING
A TASTE FOR FOREIGN CUISINES . BUT ALTHOUGH WE CONTINUE TO
CULTIVATE A UNIVERSAL PALATE, THE TASTE OF KAKANIN (THE TASTE OF
HOME, REALLY) REMAINS SOMETHING WE CAN NEVER DO WITHOUT.