GARMENT

EXPLORATION

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 GARMENT DETAILS

A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back

upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and
upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.
• Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set
into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats
may also be partially sewn flat and allowed to fall open below.
• Small pleats sewn in place down their entire length are called tucks.

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Main pleat types are
- Knife pleats
- Accordion pleat
- Box pleat
- Inverted box pleat
- Pleat with inlay
- Kick pleat

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SHIRRING &
SMOCKING

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GARMENT DETAILS

Tucks - In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in

place. Small tucks, especially multiple parallel tucks, may be
used to decorate clothing or household linens.
• Pin tuck
• Space tuck
• Release tuck
• Cross tuck
• Shell tuck
• Corded tuck

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 RUFFLES

• In sewing and dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip

of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one
edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or other textile as a
form of trimming. A ruffle without gathers or pleats may also
be made by cutting a curved strip of fabric and applying the
inner or shorter edge to the garment.
• A deep (wide) ruffle is usually called a flounce (earlier frounce
or fronce).
• Ruffles appeared at the draw-string necklines of full chemise
in the 15th century, evolved into the separately-constructed
ruff of the 16th century, and remained a fashionable form of
trim, off-and-on into modern times
• Different ruffles :-
- Circular ruffle
- Center ruffle 8
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 POCKET

 Patch pocket: sewn-on pocket to the top of a clothing.

 Top-stitched patch pocket: sewn-on pocket to the top of a clothing
and provided with a double seam.
 Piped patch pocket: sewn-on pocket provided with a robust trimming.
 Piped patch pocket with a flap: sewn-on pocket provided with a part
which folds up on the front.
 Piped patch pocket with a flap and round edges: sewn-on 11
pocket
whose edges are rounded and
 provided with a part which folds up on the front.
 POCKET
Top stitched welt pocket: pocket provided with a robust trimming and a
double seam.
Welt pocket with stay: pocket provided with a robust trimming and
reinforcements.
Welt pocket: pocket provided with a robust trimming
Welt pocket with zipper: pocket provided with a robust trimming and a
zipper.
Buttoned leg welt pocket: pocket provided with a robust trimming and a
leg which is buttoned on the front.
Flap pocket: pocket provided with a lapel.
Kangaroo pocket: large pocket generally located on the abdomen.
Stitch pocket: pocket inside the clothing which is provided with a slash.
Italian pocket: pocket whose front is smaller in order to let see a part of
the bottom.
Welt pocket with flap: pocket provided with a robust trimming and a lapel.
Slash pocket: thickness formed by the folding back of a fabric on itself
and slashes.
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POCKETS

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 CUFFS
 A fold used as
trimming at the
bottom of a sleeve.
 A band, often having
an opening with a
button closure, at the
bottom of a sleeve.

 Musqueteer cuff: folded back wrist attaching with buttons.

 Shirt cuff: wrist provided with a button.
 Cuff: starched wrist.
 Dart pleated cuff: wrist provided with a pleat allowing to decrease the
width.
 Turtle cuff: wrist rolled up on itself.
 Zipped cuff: wrist provided with a zipper.
 Ribbed cuff: wrist made of lines of knit stitches alternating with lines of
purl stitches. 15

 Casing cuff: wrist provided with an opening in which a ribbon is inserted

to adjust the sleeve when tied.
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 PLACKETS Shirt placket

• A placket is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a
garment. Plackets are almost always used to allow clothing to be put on or removed easily, but
are sometimes used purely as a design element. Modern plackets often contain fabric facings or
attached bands to surrounds and reinforce fasteners such as buttons, snaps, or zippers.
• In modern usage, the term placket often refers to the double layers of fabric that hold the
buttons and buttonholes in a shirt. Plackets can also be found at the neckline of a shirt, the cuff
of a sleeve, or at the waist of a skirt or pair of trousers.
Different shirt plackets:-
-- Continuous placket
-- Concealed placket
-- French placket
Different sleeve plackets : -
-- Faced placket
-- Diamond placket
-- Continuous placket
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 LENGTHS OF SKIRTS
 Term skirt is used for an item of clothing worn from the waist down and
which is the basic element of
 Women’s and girls clothing. A matching jacket with a skirt makes a suit,
or costume.
 Many styles of skirt are subject to change in fashion. Other styles are
considered as classics, or timeless.
 Individual styles are distinguished by length, width, silhouette, cut and
details.

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS

/Balloon skirt

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLEATED
SKIRTS

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS

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 SKIRTS

Straight skirt: skirt which has a straight cut.

A-line skirt: skirt widening downwards.
Box pleated skirt: skirt widening downwards and provided with pleats.
Fly skirt: skirt with an opening.
Sheath: fitted skirt.
Fix box pleat skirt: fabric part folded up so that the edges of the folding
meet and form a hollow.
8 panel skirt: skirt provided with 8 panels of fabric.
4 panel skirt: skirt provided with 4 panels of fabric. 24

6 panel skirt: skirt provided with 6 panels of fabric.

Fall skirt: skirt provided with a hanging piece
 SKIRT
S

Pant skirt: roomy pants looking like a skirt.

Semi-circular skirt: roomy skirt.
Circular skirt: roomy skirt.
Buttoned straight skirt: straight skirt with buttons on the front.
Sarong: beach skirt.
Fixed box pleat skirt: fabric part folded up so that the edges of the foldings
meet and form a hollow. 25

Knife pleat skirt: single vertical pleat.

Gore skirt: triangular panel forming a big supple pleat.
 SKIRTS

 Peplum: skirt provided with a yoke covering the hips.

 6 panel skirt with yoke: skirt provided with 6 panels and a yoke.
 Puckened skirt: skirt with small waves in the fabric.
 Wrap-around skirt: enveloping skirt.
 Sunary pleat skirt: skirt having pleats widening downwards.
 Box pleated skirt: skirt whose fabric is folded up so that the edges of the
foldings meet and form a hollow
 Accordion pleat skirt: set of straight pleats and of equal width.
 Suit skirt: straight skirt. 26
 Flounced skirt: straight skirt trimmed with a pleated fabric band.
 Draped skirt: skirt provided with supple pleats.
NECKLINES

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NECKLINES

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NECKLINES

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NECKLINES

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NECKLINE

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COLLARS

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 COLLARS

Peter Pan collar: flat collar with round points.

Removable Peter Pan collar: removable flat collar with round points.
Bow neck: large points collar provided with ribbons.
Collaret: collar provided with pleats or puckers.
Bertha collar: big round collar covering the shoulders.
Cape collar: collar provided with large points.
Square collar: large squared collar falling down on the chest.
Swan-necked: collar whose opening looks like a swan’s nozzle.
Lapel collar: collar provided with folded up points. 33

Poet collar: collar deprived of angle between the collar and the lapels.
Dog ear collar: collar whose points are round.
 COLLARS

Napoleon collar: high collar also provided with lapels.

Elizabethan collar: starched collar going up very high behind the head.

Shirt collar: collar provided with points.

Turtleneck: supple high collar folded up on itself.

Buttoned shirt collar: collar provided with points and buttons.

Extended points shirt collar: collar provided with points lengthening

downwards. 34
COLLARS

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COLLARS

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COLLARS

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COLLARS

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COLLARS

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COLLARS

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRT COLLARS

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COLLAR PARTS

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SHIRT COAT
SLEEVES

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SLEEVE
S
- Clothing
which
surrounds the
arm. Length
could be full,
half or 3/4th

Set-in sleeve: sewn-on sleeve.

Tailored sleeve: long sleeve in two sections.
Adjusted sleeve: sleeve with a seam at the elbow.
Shirt sleeve: long sleeve provided with a wrist.
Short sleeve: sleeve of which the length does not exceed the
elbow. 44

Raglan sleeve: sleeve covering the shoulder to the neck.

 SLEEVES

Dolman sleeve: straight sleeve not sewn-on.

Bell sleeve: sleeve looking like a bell.
Lantern sleeve: sleeve with a transparent part.
Bishop sleeve: large sleeve whose wrist is long and fitted.
Pleated sleeve: sleeve provided with pleats.
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 SLEEVES

Flounced sleeve: sleeve trimmed with a light fabric band forming free pleats.
Short puff sleeve: short and loose sleeve with puckers.
Farm sleeve: sleeve of rural style.
Puff sleeve: wrinkled and wide sleeve provided with a wrist.
Shirring sleeve: sleeve gathered so as to form big bubbles.
Gore sleeve: sleeve provided with fan-shaped pleats.
Short open sleeve: short sleeve provided with an opening. 46

Calypso sleeve: sleeve provided with several flounces widening downwards.

 SLEEVES

Pagoda sleeve: sleeve widening from the elbow.

Leg-of-mutton sleeve: long sleeve puffing out at the shoulder.
Draped open sleeve: open sleeve that is draped.
Narrow sleeve: sleeve fitted on the fore sleeve by means of pleats.
Tulip sleeve: sleeve looking like a tulip bulb.
Caftan sleeve: large sleeve ending in free pleats.
Cap sleeve: very short sleeve. 47
Traditional kimono sleeve: very large rectangular sleeve
Gigot sleeve
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BODICES –
BLOUSES

 Straight bodice: bodice which has a straight cut.

 Empire bodice: bodice whose waist is located under the bust.
 Semi-adjusted bodice: bodice which narrows downwards.
 Adjusted bodice: bodice which marries the shape of the body.
 Ascending point bodice: empire bodice from which the waist goes up in the center front.
 Bloused bodice: bodice provided with puckers.
 Gathered bodice: roomy bodice provided with puckers. 49
 Descending point empire: empire bodice from which the waist goes down in the center
front.
BODICES –
BLOUSES

 Princess bodice: bodice of which the top is more or less adjusted and widening
starting from the waist downwards.
 Asymmetrical adjusted bodice: bodice provided with a line of buttons not
centered.
 Double breasted buttoning bodice: bodice provided with two lines of buttons.
 Bodice: fitted bodice being closed using laces.
 Asymetrical adjusted bodice: fitted bodice whose bottom finishes with a height
different on each side.
 Straight buttoned bodice: bodice which has a right cut. 50

 Tubular bodice: extensible bodice without straps nor sleeves.

 Strapless top: fitted bodice without straps nor sleeves.
 BODICES –
BLOUSES

 Yoke bodice: bodice provided with a sewn-on piece.

 Pleated bodice: bodice provided with pleats.
 Wrap-over top: cross bodice attaching with cords.
 Sun-top: bodice leaving the shoulders uncovered.
 Flounced wrap-over top: cross bodice provided with flounces.
 Flounced bodice: bodice provided with a flounce.
 Draped bodice: bodice provided with supple pleats. 51
 Strapped camisole: bodice provided with straps passing on the
shoulders.
 BLOUSES
Blouse is a soft and loose garment for the upper body, which is worn by
women and girls Together with skirts or trousers.
There is a variety of styles in blouses. The different features of individual
designs eg; the neckline and collar, length, cut,
details and decoration, together with the material produce a particular
style.

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BLOUSES

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BLOUSES

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 DRESSES

Sheath: fitted dress.

Empire waist dress: dress whose waist is located under the bust.
Strapless dress: dress whose blouse is fitted and without straps.
Trapeze dress: sleeveless dress widening downwards.
Polo dress: dress whose top looks like a polo.
Princess dress: dress whose top is more or less adjusted and widening
starting from the waist downwards. 55

Drop waist: dress whose waist is located at the hips or lower.

Sundress: dress leaving the back and the shoulders uncovered
 DRESSES

Shirt waist dress: dress whose top looks like a shirt.

Jumper: sleeveless dress with wide opening on the blouse.
Draped dress: dress provided with pieces of fabric comprising of floating
pleats.
Wrap-over dress: dress whose fronts cross.
Shirt dress: dress looking like the uniforms being worn in educational
establishments.
Tunic: blouse which goes down to the hips or lower. 56

Sheath dress: straight dress.

Coat dress: dress looking like a suit.
 DRESSES
Dress is a basic item of female outer clothing. In its original form, a shift or smock, it was
worn in ancient times.
It could be defined as a single piece of clothing comprising an upper body part and a
skirt section either cut from
the same panels or sewn on. In a “two piece” the matching top an skirt are made
separately. Individual styles of dresses
differ in width, silhouette, cut, details and decorations.

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DRESSES

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Jumpsuit: one-piece clothing provided with a blouse and trousers.
Shirt: blouse with sleeves.
Pant: brief provided with two long legs. 59
Trousers: brief provided with two
long legs.
Belt: accessory allowing to
maintain and adjust a clothing.
Fly front: opening allowing to slip-
on a clothing.
Flared bottom: leg widening
downwards.
Crease: folding made with a
domestic iron.
Slash pocket: pocket inside the
clothing which is provided with a
slash.
Belt loop: vertical attach into
which slips a belt. 60
 TROUSERS
Trousers were worn exclusively by males. Today they are commonly worn by
women also. The various styles of trousers have developed mainly from
different functional uses, but they Are also influenced to a greater or lesser
extent by fashion. Length, width and silhouette Cut & details distinguish the
different styles.

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TROUSERS

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TROUSERS

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Straight pant: trousers whose cut is right over the entire length.
Gaucho: roomy trousers which stop at the level of the calves.
Pedal-pushers: fitted trousers which stop at the level of the
semi-calves with slashes on the external side
Tapering trousers: fitted and extensible trousers which is
provided with a band passing under the foot.
Trousers with buttons: trousers provided with buttons to attach
straps
Palazzo: roomy and straight pant. 64
 Jean: resistant trousers provided with back-pockets.
 Pyjamas: trousers being worn to sleep.
 Jodhpurs: baggy trousers at the level of the thighs and provided with
bands passing under the foot.
 Knicker bockers: trousers provided with fitted bands at the bottom.
 Trousers: trousers provided with two long legs finished by a lapel.
 Bell bottoms: trousers widening downwards from the knee. 65
 JACKETS
Jacket is a basic item of outerwear worn by men, women & children
alike. The distinguishing features between individual designs for
example length, width, silhouette, cut and details are determined by
the style and purpose.

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JACKETS

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JACKETS

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 COAT
Coat is an item of outer clothing and is an essential part of woman’s,
men’s and children's clothing.
It is longer than a jacket and is also more generously cut. The cut and
material determine different styles, which in turn are fitted to different
functions. The various styles are distinguished by the length, width,
silhouette, cut and details.

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COAT

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