CRAFT

CLUSTER
BHAGALPUR LINEN
CRAFT
The term “craft” refers to a skill that is commonly used in
ornamental arts (e.g., ceramics) or in a related artistic discipline
(eg. Lace-making). Crafts are distinguished by a high degree of
“hands-on” craftsmanship (thus the common term “handicrafts”)
rather than just machine expertise.

The phrase “studio craft” is sometimes used to refer to several

crafts that are practised by artists who work alone. Metalwork,
wood turning, glass blowing, and glass art are examples of
“studio crafts,” as is pottery, particularly the studio pottery
movement in Britain epitomised by Bernard Leach.
The ethnic diversity of
India is well-known. In CRAFTS ON INDIA
terms of art and culture,
India is one of the Handmade crafts or artisanry
are generally referred to as
world's most culturally handicrafts. With the use of
diverse countries. The simple tools, skilled people
country is blessed with a construct a variety of
products ranging from
number of highly skilled consumer goods to
artisans. They have ornamental pieces out of
improved the global paper, wood, clay, shells,
recognition of Indian rock, stone, metal, and other
materials. These goods are
handicrafts. Many rural referred to as handicrafts
people still rely on their since they are entirely
artistic creations for a handmade without the use of
any machinery.
living.
 TEXTILE
CRAFTS OF
INDIA
India's textiles are highly regarded
and admired around the world for its
appearance, texture, and beauty. India
has a broad and rich cultural heritage.
Each Indian area contributes to the
development of a diverse range of
textile traditions. Woolen textiles are
produced in abundance in the
country's hilly regions.
 LINEN
Within the history of mankind, linen is the oldest ancient vegetative material. It was
important to ancient Egyptian society, was cherished by Israelite tribes, was produced in
twelfth-century Ireland, and now has multiple well-established markets across Western
Europe.

The durability of linen, the only textile that is stronger wet than dry, is reflected in
history.
Shirts, pants, and other outerwear are commonly made from linen yarn, which is plain-
woven into lightweight and middle-weight fabrics.
 Linen Composition

Linen could be a sustainable material made of flax fibres.

To extract the fibers, the plants are either cut or dragged by hand from the bottom
(it’s said creates finer linen).

After the separation of fibers, they’re then spun into yarn then finally woven into
fabric.
Benefits Of Linen
 It can obtain up to twenty fifth of its
weight in water.
 Less seemingly to clutch the skin as a
thicker fabric would.
 As it dries out it becomes cool and
billows, therefore the skin is regularly
being touched by a cool surface, good
for hot, humid, and dry weather.
 Linen does not stretch and is immune
to abrasion.
 Very sturdy and robust, one among the
few fabrics that’s stronger wet than dry.
 Resistant to moths and carpet beetles.
 It resists dirt and stains and can be
taken easily care of.
 It can stand up to high temperatures
with only moderate initial shrinkage.

LINEN TODAY
Nowadays, linen is essentially a
niche product that is still
manufactured to make a few textile
products. Despite its lengthy history,
linen is no longer popular due to the
difficult and time-consuming
techniques required to produce it.
INDUSTRIAL
BUILDINGS
Despite the fact that the issues facing
linen producers now are vastly
different from those faced in
antiquity, This fabric remains fussy
and expensive to create.
 LOOM
It is a type of device which is used in weaving and making tapestry,
the basic purpose of the loom is to hold onto the warp threads
under tension so that the interweaving with the weft threads can
S
be done easily.

There are many types of looms such as automatic and Manual looms
which also has several sub divisions based on the design and
principle of working.
 Hand Loom
T In hand looms, the threads are
hung from a picket piece or
branch to an appendant to the

Y bottom.

P
E Back Strap Loom
S This loom consist 2 sticks or bars
between which warps are stretched,
one bar is hooked up to a set object
and the other one to the weaver,
sometimes by means of a strap round
the back.
 Frame Loom
T Frame looms nearly have the
similar mechanism to that of the
ground looms. It is more handy

Y for weavers.

P
E Automatic Power Loom

S It is a type of loom which is

mechanized and is always operated
by the help of electricity.
 Pit Loom
T ‘Pit Loom’ is a type of loom which is fitted
in a pit where the artisan makes the weave
with the use of pedals, In working it

Y simulates the handloom and the only

difference is its size & height. It is called a
pit loom because of the pit below the loom.

P
E Floor Loom
S Big looms which rests directly onto the
floor and is operated with the help of foot
pedals. Some of the floor looms are poor in
terms of portability and are upto 100 inches
wide area wise.
 Parts Of Loom

1. Warp Beam 9. Fell or edge of cloth

2. Harness 10. Weft

3. Weft Beam 11. Shuttle

4. Selvedge 12. Heddle

5. Batten 13. Bobbin

6. Reed 14. Dent

7. Woven Cloth 15. Shed

8. Cloth Beam 16. Heddle Eye

W
E
A PLAIN WEAVE
V
E

CHECKS & STRIPS WEAVE

T
Y
P Mercury is the closest planet to the Sun and the

E
smallest one in our Solar System—it’s only a bit
larger than our Moon. The planet’s name has nothing
to do with the liquid metal, since it was named after
the Roman messenger god
Sourcing Of
Yarn

Mainly artisans source their yarn from the

market in Bhagalpur for their work.

When weavers get their order from the

supplier, the linen yarn is supplied to
weaver by them according to the
quantity and need

Suppliers source their yarn from the big

mills like Jayshree textiles mills in
Kolkata
 WEAVING
After the preparatory
process of dyeing of the
yarn the artisan hands
over the yarn to their
family. Firstly, one of the
members of the family
(generally women) winds
the thread onto the
bobbin with the help of
charkha so that it can be
easily handled.
First a sample of 25-30
cm is prepared and then
sent to the respective
supplier/Mahajan for
approval. Once the
approval of the sample
from the supplier is done
the process of weaving is
continued further

MAJOR CHALLENGES
● Livelihood and Welfare of Weavers
including Women
● Skills, Education and Training
● Competition from power loom
HANDLOOM
SECTOR IN INDIA
DEVELOPMENT
The great quality of Indian handloom
products such as Chanderi muslin,
Varanasi silk brocade, Rajasthan and
Orissa tie and dye products, Assam
MERCURY
phenek, and Baroda Patola saree have
been famous all over since ancient
times. There was little attempt to
expand the handloom sector in the first
part of the twentieth century, and
weavers were opposed against
sophisticated textile mills.
EXPORT
PERFORMANCE
In the 2017-18 fiscal year, India’s
handloom exports totaled US$ 355.91
million. Exports were US$ 199.42
million from April to October 2018. The
United States was the largest importer of
Indian handloom products from April to
October 2018, with estimated purchases
of US$ 58.03 million, followed by the
United Kingdom, Italy, and Germany,
with US$ 10.76 million, US$ 9.95, and
US$ 9.74 million, respectively.
Handloom production accounts for
around 15% of total fabric output in
India. A total of 5,134 million square
meters cloth was produced from April to
November 2017.
GOVERMENT SUPPORT

Handloom Mark

Indian Handloom Brand

National Handloom Development Programme

Marketing Incentive to Handloom Sector

HANDLOOM WEAVERS OF
BHAGALPUR
The city encompasses a about 30,000 handloom weavers, more than The income of weavers
9/10th being job workers with 25,000 handlooms. Here is the list of who works on job work
product mixed produced in Bhagalpur: basis earns only an
1. Sarees
average amount of Rs 30
per day for one weaver.
2. Dress Materials (Salwar Kameez, Dupatta, Kurta-Pyjama) Here, we infer that their
income is much below
3. Home Furnishings (Bedsheets, Cushion Covers, Curtains, Table
Covers, Handkerchiefs) the wages mentioned in
minimum wages act of
The greater chunk of the above products are of Home furnishings Rs 80 per person.
(50%) and Dress Material (35%) and remaining 15% are sarees.
 Double linen thread Linen tani, linen bharni

LINEN FROM
BHAGALPUR
Linen thread Fasua linen thread

Linen tani, polydupian bharni Plain white linen

Tussar tani, linen bharni Plain tani, jharna bharni

PRINT DESIGNS
PRODUCTS
FORMATIO
N OF LINEN
YARN

CULTIVATING RETTING SPINNING

Linen fabric is made from Retting, process Spinning is a
the cellulose fibers that employing the action of manufacturing process for
grow inside of the stalks bacteria and moisture on creating polymer fibers. It
of the flax plant, or plants to dissolve or rot is a specialized form of
Linum usitatissimum, one away much of the extrusion that uses a
of the oldest cultivated cellular tissues and spinneret to form multiple
plants in human history. gummy substances continuous filaments.
Flax is an annual plant, surrounding bast-fibre
which means it only lives bundles, thus facilitating
for one growing season. separation of the fibre
from the stem.
Yarn obtained from
Dyeing procedure When it dries, it is
market, is soaked in Then, they put the
takes plenty of time. sent to the supplier
water to get rid of yarns on the bamboo
Here, they dip the according to the
impurities such as gum, beams out in the
yarns in required and required amount in
dirt, and dust particles sunlight to set them for
etc.
fixed color shades.
drying.
heaps.
YARN
The planning for design
Yarns are carefully TO
After that, the warping placed on the
and cost is done by
weavers as soon as they
Bobbin is filled one by
one, a huge chunk by
procedure takes place,
followed by the filling
handloom as per the
the design required
FABRI
procure the yarns from the section of female
the suppliers. members of the family.
of reeds. to begin the process
of weaving. C
On identifying defects
Fabrics, as soon as they
that occurred during Washing and
are woven till 25 meters,
the weaving process, calendaring takes place,
undergo Midway
the fabric is directed where heat setting of
Checking Procedure
towards the mending the fabric is done.
through Mahajan.
room.
DRESSING THE
LOOM
CURRENT
SCENARIO
A large number of artisans from rural areas compete in the arena, the
majority of whom are women and members of disadvantaged groups.
The ease of cheap cost and abundant labour, the utilisation of native
resources, minimal capital investment, and increasing appreciation by
foreign customers are all assets of this business. It’s important to note Insufficient
that, despite these distinguishing traits, the firm has a low fraction of
Indian exports and foreign market, necessitating marketing and
credit Marketing issues
channelling efforts to tap the business’s hidden potential.

Vast competition Technological Lack of input

from mill sector backwardness and the working
and power looms capital problem
 SUGGESTION
S FOR
PROMOTING
It is vital to make efforts to address the issues that the world is currently
SUSTAINABL
facing in order to realise property growth. This may necessitate departing E GROWTH
from the business approach. It is necessary to develop a transparent strategy
that can be implemented and changes success. While numerous projects are
underway, there is still a lot more can be done to promote handlooms in the
country. The following proposals for promoting the loom business in India
are based on a literature assessment and are meant to be considered.
 CHALLENGES FACED BY
SECTOR
Improve credit Regular supply of Connect with private Use of multi-
delivery raw materials sector through CSR channel marketing

Focus on quality Have more State Scaling up Promote

standards Level Initiatives marketplaces for Handloom Mark
handloom products

Strengthen Common Have a National

Introduce new Leverage platforms
Infrastructure Campaign on
design elements of e-commerce
Facilities Handlooms
 A financial assistance of up NHDC launched the
to 2.00 crores for the Enterprise Resource
Common Facility Centre Planning (ERP) system and
(CSC) is allowed for a the e-Dhaga mobile app in
cluster in the block, which 2016 to improve the
includes the CSC) and the efficiency of yarn supply.
engagement of a textile
designer. GOVERNMEN
T
PROMOTIONA
L INITIATIVES

Smriti Irani, the Union In 2013, actress Sharmila Anita Dongre, a well-known
Textile Minister, started the Tagore kicked off the fashion designer, has taken
#iwearhandloom campaign centenary celebrations of strides to promote the Indian
on Twitter and Facebook to Bengal Home Industries, the handloom and handicraft
raise awareness about the country’s first non- industries by staging fashion
bad working conditions of governmental organisation shows to highlight the
weavers and urge consumers dedicated to promoting the country’s glitzy sector.
to wear handloom. handloom sector.
STRENGTHS
The sector employs a large number of
skilled and semi-skilled workers.
There is little or no energy demand.
Unique products made with traditional
technology cannot be duplicated on power
looms.
Unaffected by industrial setbacks.
Cluster Development Program and various
PPP-based development schemes.
In the worldwide market, India is one of the
top exporters of yarn.
The government protects important products
with intellectual property rights.
Hourly labour is less expensive than most
other competitors, and product costs are low.
WEAKNESSES
There is no or insufficient standardisation for
measuring quality, cost, and overheads. S
W
In some locations, harmful forbidden
substances are used.
Weavers’ unwillingness to make a change to
O
an existing product.
In the handloom industry, there are a large
number of non-viable businesses.
In comparison to key completers, the overall
unit cost is higher. T
Mechanization of tedious processes, slow
process of product diversification and ANALYSI
technology advancements.
Overheads, pricing, hefty inventory, damaged
S
supplies, and so on are all out of control.
There will be no BEP analysis or maintaining
of MIS.
OPPORTUNITIES
Government policies that benefit the
industry.
NABARD provides institutional financing.
Opening of banks for raw materials, designs,
and a clothing park, among other things.
Implementation of the Cluster Development
Program in most of the country’s handloom
clusters, which includes master weavers and
weavers outside of the cooperative fold.
Good domestic market with potential for
export.
WSC, IIHT, NHDC, Textile Committee, and
HEPC, among others, provide service.
Using the internet and e-commerce to
significantly reduce prices.
To meet global needs, product development
and diversification are essential.
THREATS
Product cloning and design by the composite
and power loom industries. S
W
After globalisation, items are imported at a
lower cost.
Adoption of environmentally friendly
O
processes is met with resistance.
Weavers are migrating to other professions.
T
The impact on LPG is unknown to 99 percent
of rural farmers (Liberalization, Privatization
and Globalization).
Weavers’ earnings are decreasing day by day.
ANALYSI
Government rebate programmes are being
phased out.
S
Other developing countries, particularly
China, pose a threat.
Rural institutions have a low level of cohesion.

In a conversation with
weaver Mr. Modassir
Ansari, he expresses his
disappointment regarding
the decline in pay and
productivity since the very
first lockdown kicked off.
He reveals that the
pandemic has taken a toll in
his work. The number of
clients the family would
recieve has substantially
decreased in the past two
years.
PROBLEMS
Since hand-weaving is a
time-taking and a relatively
FACED BY
laborious task, younger
craftsmen have inclined WEAVERS
towards working on the
factory power loom.
Factories also pay
significantly higher. Power
looms providing a cheaper
alternative to the end
customer, and factory-made
fabric a lot of times being
indistinguishable from a
handmade fabric are a
couple of major causes for
low pay.
BY

Akansha Choudhary (BFT/19/286)

Shivam (BFT/19/1118)
Tanya Raj (BFT/19/822)
Yogesh Kumar (BFT/19/1532)
Swapnil Krishna (BFT/19/1073)
Bhanu Pratap (BFT/18/2396)
Abhishek Kumar (BFT/19/1168)
Pranav Kumar (BFT/19/1101)