SEAM CLASSIFICATION

What is Seam ???

A seam is a joint consisting of a
sequence of stitches uniting two or
more pieces of material(s) and is used
for assembling parts in the
production of sewn items.
Joint = stitches + 2 or more pcs. of material
 Seam Dimensions
Seam length
Total distance covered by a continuous series of
stitches, e.g. side seam, shoulder seam
Seam allowance
Distance between cut edge of fabric and main
line of stitches
Seam heading
Distance between folded edge of the top ply and
the first line of stitches
 Seam Dimensions
Seam width
Considers width of seam allowance, stitch width
and seam heading
Seam depth
Thickness or compressibility (flatness) of a seam
Both are major factors affecting appearance and
comfort of a garment
seam depth is affected by fabric gsm, stitch and
seam type
 Seam Classes
As per ASTM Standard D 6193
Four Seam Classes-
 Superimposed Seam
 Lapped Seam
 Bound Seam
 Flat Seam

Two Stitching Classes-

 Edge Finishing
 Ornamental Stitching
Copies of Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams can be ordered from ASTM Customer
Service, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959
Superimposed Seam
The superimposed seam (SS) class is formed by
joining two or more pieces of fabric, usually
with seam allowance edges even and one piece
superimposed over the second.
Superimposed Seam Types
Waistband - Waistband -
inside outside
Stitching thread
Superimposed Seam Types
SSd-Not common.

SSe- Runstitch & Topstitch- For making

collars & cuffs on shirts; attaching front
pockets, bagging front pockets, setting fly
on chinos, etc.
Superimposed Seam Types

SSf-Butt Seam & Tape- For butt

seaming & taping heel seams on
shoes, etc.

SSh- Seaming & Cover seaming-

For cover seaming knit tops,
undergarments to reinforce
seam and give it a decorative
appearance.
Superimposed Seam Types
SSj-For attaching a zipper tape between shell and
facing.

SSk- Seam with Piping-For seam apparel, furniture with

piping in seam.

SSl- For setting front pockets on jeans.

SSn- Hem Seam- For seaming fabrics that may be

susceptible to seam slippage.
Superimposed Seam Types
SSp- Hem Seam - For seaming fabrics that may be
susceptible to seam slippage.

SSq- Seam, Fold & Cord-For attaching yokes to back or

shoulder joining on shirts, blouses, etc. Similar to LSe
but done in 2 steps.

SSs-Hemming and attaching zipper tape.

Superimposed Seam Types
SSt- For seaming knitted or woven elastic to boxers and
gym shorts.

SSv-Not common.

SSw- Mock Felled Seam - For side seaming shirts,

blouses, dresses, etc.
Superimposed Seam : Top 5
SSa Side seams of skirts, dress slacks, inseams of jeans
SSb finishing belt ends; attaching elastic to waistline
SSc ends of waistbands on jeans
SSd seaming, but not widely used
SSe collars or cuffs, seamed and topstitched
Lapped Seam

The lapped seam (LS) class is

defined as two or more pieces of
fabric joined by overlapping at
the needle.
Lapped Seam Types
LSa- Lap seaming- Attaching knitted cuffs – generally sewn
with a coverstitch - 605 or 607.

LSb- Not as common as LSq where piece is attached and

then corded or topstitched. My T-shirt!!

LSc- Felled Seam - Seaming jeans, shirts, jackets, etc.

Generally, with a two or three needle 401 Chain stitch.

LSd- Patch Pocket Setting - For setting patch pockets,

flaps, pocket facings, etc., generally, with a 301
Lockstitch.
Lapped Seam Types
SSe- Yoking - Seaming yokes to back on shirts or blouses in
one operation. Not as common as SSq.

SSf- Yoking-Seaming yokes to back on shirts or blouses

in one operation.

SSg-Two Piece Waistband-Attaching a waistband to

chinos or work pants.

SSj-Two Piece Waistband-Attaching a waistband to chinos

or work pants.

Fusing, interlining
Lapped Seam Types
LSk- Waist banding on pajamas; making rod pocket on
curtains & shower curtains, etc.

LSl- Joining bib to pants of bib overall in 1 operation.

LSm-Set- On Center Plait- Attaching set-on center

plaits to shirts and blouses.

LSn- Not common.

Lapped Seam Types
LSq- Seam & Cord Seam- Side seam on jeans; chinos;
jackets, etc.

LSr- Sleeve Set- Setting sleeves on dress shirts or

blouses.

LSs-Patch Pocket Setting- For setting large patch

pockets on suit coats, overcoats, and jackets.

LSz-Joining & Taping- Joining & taping fronts of knit

briefs & thermal underwear.
Lapped Seam : Top 5
LSa vinyl and leathers
LSb attaching curtain to w/b of men’s dress slacks
LSc side seams of dress shirts and jeans
LSd attaching patch pockets, sewing on tables
LSe attaching yokes
Bound Seam
The bound seam (BS) Class requires
a separate piece of fabric that
encompasses the edge of one or
more pieces of the garment.
Bound Seam Types
BSa- Binding carpets, etc, with selvedge
edge binding.

BSb- Setting collarettes on tee shirts; binding legs and fly

on knit briefs, etc. Usually sewn with a 406 bottom cover
stitch.

BSc- Waist banding on Jeans-For setting sleeve facings

to shirts, piping edges of outerwear, etc. Can be sewn
with a 301 lockstitch or 401 Chain stitch.

BSd- Seaming with selvedge edge binding on

outerwear.
Bound Seam Types
BSe- Seaming and binding on outerwear.

BSg- Sewn in 2 operations - Mock clean, finish binding.

BSj- Sewn in 2 operations - Mock clean, finish binding.

Bound Seam : Top 5
BSa edges bound with ribbon or braid
BSb T-shirt necklines or sleeve edges with knot trim
BSc neckline or front edges bound with bias-wovens
BSd seaming and binding
BSe seaming and binding
Flat Seam

The flat seam (FS) class is the

smallest class. The formation of
this seam occurs with the butting
together of two pieces of fabric,
but not overlapping them.
Flat Seam Types
FSa- Flat seaming - Flat seaming
underwear, fleece, exercise wear,
etc. Generally, sewn with a 607
stitch. Sometimes a 606 Flatlock
Stitch.

FSf- Bolt-end seaming with a 501

Stitch.
Flat Seam : Top 5
FSa raglan seams of sweatshirts
FSb sweatshirts and underwear
FSc seams of support garments
FSd sweatshirts and underwear
FSe sweatshirts and underwear
Stitching Classes

In this class the stitching is performed

on a single piece of fabric. The fabric
may be folded in variety of ways so
the stitching may be through more
than one thickness
Stitching Classes
Two Stitching Classes-

Edge Finishing

Ornamental Stitching
Edge Finishing

Edge finishing (EF) is stitching that

encompasses the cut edge or provides a
finish for a single ply of fabric with a
folded edge configuration.
Edge Finishing Types
EFa- Hemming selvedge edge, shirtfront.

EFb-Clean Finish Hem-Hemming shirts, jeans, shorts,

etc.

EFc- Blindhemming-Hemming bottoms of tee

shirts, undershirts, etc. usually sewn with a 503
Stitch.

EFd- Serging- Serging pants panels, fly facings, etc.

Edge Finishing Types
EFe- Serge & Hem-Serging edges of napkins,
sheer curtains, etc.

EFf- Hem & Insert- Hem and insert elastic to

infant panties, etc.

EFg-Hem and insert elastic to infant panties,

etc.

EFh- Belt loops- Making belt loops for

jeans and casual pants, shorts, etc.
usually sewn with 406 stitch.
Edge Finishing Types
EFj- Making straps or belts with clean finish.

EFl- Blindstitch Hem- Hemming dresses, slacks,

coats,and bedspreads. Generally, sewn with 103
blindstitch.

EFm- Blindstitch Hem- Hemming Dresses, slacks,

coats, and bedspreads. Generally, sewn with 103
blindstitch.

EFn- Making straps or belts with clean finish.

Edge Finishing Types

EFp- Making straps or belts with clean finish.

EFq-Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc.

EFr-Tunneled elastic- Hem and insert elastic to

infant panties, etc.

EFu- Making Spaghetti- Making straps. Stitch is

hidden and not visible.
Edge Finishing Types

EFv- Centerplaiting- Cut-on centerplait. Generally,

sewn with 2 rows of 401 stitch.

EFy- Making straps or belts with clean finish.

EFz- Making straps or belts with clean finish.

Edge Finishing : Top 5
EFa single-fold hem
EFb double-fold hem
EFc T-shirt hem
EFd edge finish, serging
EFe ornamental edge finish
Ornamental Stitching
Ornamental stitching may be used on a single ply
for decorative purposes. It can be done anywhere
except the edge.
Ornamental Stitching Types
OSa- Decorative Stitching-Decorative stitch
back pockets on jeans; saddle stitching.

OSf- Sewing Darts- Dart panel on slacks,

chinos, blouses, etc.
Ornamental Stitching : Top 5
OSa decorative stitching on jean pockets
OSb decorative stitching with cording insert
OSc raised stitching w/o cording insert for backs of
gloves
OSd raised stitching, cording betn 2 plies of material
OSe pin tucks on front of blouse
 Specifications for stitches,
seams & stitchings
401 LSc-2
401 identifies the stitch class and type
LS identifies the seam class
c identifies the type of seam
2 indicates two independent rows of stitches
Seam Appearance
Is evaluated on the following factors:

Drapability- is affected by the flexibility of

materials and seam construction. Seams need
the same amount of drapability as the rest of
the garment. Use of heavy thread, complex
seam structures mainly contribute to the
rigidity of a seam.
Seam Appearance

Consistency of stitch & seam formation- very critical to

garment appearance as irregularity affects the shape of the
garment and can cause poor fit and unsightly appearance.
Seam Appearance

Seam Flatness- A flat seam is free of fabric

creases, waviness and pucker. Some
factors affecting seam flatness may be
controlled by pressing, top stitching and
cover stitching.
Seam Performance

Relates to the elasticity, strength and

flexibility of a seam.
Elasticity- Involves two factors-elongation
and recovery. Seam elasticity is the degree
that a seam recovers to its original length
immediately after elongation. Elongation is
the amount that a seam can be stretched
without breaking. Recovery is the return of
its original length when the stress is
removed.
Seam Performance
Strength- is important factor in determining
the durability of a garment and determined
by the pulling force & abrasion. Seam
Tenacity is the force necessary to break the
fabric or the weakest stitch of a seam. Seam
abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing
action needed to wear away stitches in the
seam.
Seam strength is related to stitch type,
thread strength & tension, seam type &
width and spi.