One Product, Two Worlds
Teresa Buzzoni , Honors Thesis Project Research
Research Goals:
This project hopes to understand how Sea Island Cotton
developed a connection between Barbados and the West
Indies and the high-end fashion markets of Charleston,
S.C., and the world; how high fashion and the James
Bond franchise tied in; and how the fines cotton in the
world is burdened a racist history; environmental
degradation; and the economic relationship between the
winners and losers of this trade or robbery.
How it all began:
How Ian Fleming’s James Bond put Sea Island Cotton into
Perspective
Fleming’s novel, “Diamonds are Forever” describes shirts
worn by bond as made from sea island cotton, which sparked
my interest. Upon further investigation, this specific cotton
type was largely produced in the West Indies, a favorite of
Queen Victoria and the British crown. James Bond, at her
Majesty’s service, exclusively wore the cotton as the author,
Mr. Fleming frequented the West Indies during his writing
process. Costume designer of the newest Bond movie
continued the trend, dressing Daniel Craig in sea island
cotton.
Faculty Advisor: Professor Brad Horn
Learn about Sea Island Cotton
1. In 1860, 88% of British cotton imports came from
the Americas. From 1805-1860, 500 million pounds
of sea island cotton were produced and exported to
England. Worth around $4 billion adjusted to current
inflation.
2. In 1869, the Bull Weevil pest nearly eliminated
cotton production in the United States.
3. Cotton expanded through the 1870s-90s, where
shipments were sent to the Allied forces in the early
1920s of sea island cotton for Allied Nation
uniforms.
4. Sudan, India, and the British West Indies
monopolized cotton and America attempts to catch
up.
5. 1929, Colonization remains. A series of
decolonization movements begin at the end of World
War I and II. Local planters attempt to plant the
cotton in the United States. Decolonization effects in
West Indies remain.
6. 1942, United States Department of Agriculture
begins to compete with Amer-Egyptian sea island
cotton, and global textile trade.
7. 1947, Boll Weevil causes $200,000,000 of damages
in the cotton industry.
8. 1962-80s, Carolinians continue selling and
producing sea island cotton. First documented
artificial reef created as a result of sea island cotton
production causing local fish to disappear. Built
crates of oak or pine wood to bring fish back.
All information collected from Primary Source documents from the
New York Times Archives.
Where research has taken me and where I hope to Conclusion
go:
1. A social media campaign that will raise information
1. This project has brought out of the box thinking, through
surrounding sea island cotton.
pitching, a fresh idea, and opportunity to explore.
2. A connection with Dr. Richard Porcher, a scientist who has 2. I am looking forward to explore how cotton farmers
been working to cultivate sea island cotton from nearly
operate in Barbados and Charleston; what waste
extinct seeds, and is a foremost thought leader on the crop.
management looks like for textile waste; and how
3. Research with the New York Times Archivists to better
Barbados’ history is directly tied to the cotton industry and
understand the demography and perspectives regarding a
colonization and beyond.
global franchise and historic product.
3. I hope to better explore how fashion, the economies and
4. Traces through the history of enslavement from freed
brand perception can impact growing West Indian
slaves on the United States Coast through the Edisto Island
economies.
Open Trust, where slaves owned and operated the plantation.
I hope to compare this data with the cultivation on Barbados 4. I hope to understand how one breakout star, whether
and the West Indies, which have deep seated roots in history. Rihanna recently, or James Bond back at the advent of Ian
What dark histories do resort cultures perpetuate? Fleming’s writing, to see how movies and franchises
5. A better understanding of food and cotton on the island: impact economies and rise of products and designs.
The sea island cotton runoff led to the development of an
artificial reef which has been replicated in conservation
worldwide.
6. To be determined: Fashion communities that have been
working to bring Sea Island Cotton and high fashion back What I’m hoping to produce and learn with this
from and to the West Indies, coupled with a newfound information?
designer, and Caribbean Fashion Director in New York
Fashion Week, Junior Sealy. How is Sea island Cotton Through a social media campaign, series of interviews,
making a comeback.. Should it? travel to Charleston, S.C. and hopefully Barbados, I hope
to trace down the origins and connections to the history
of sea island cotton, and the people working to protect it.
I hope to learn about high fashion, and make a bid for
sustainability in the future, especially among fashion
industries, and explore the connections between our
7. What is the history of highest fashion and historical roots of racism and
the crop and how do advantage.
people view it in reference
to the media surrounding
it. How do icons like
Rihanna, James Bond and
Junior Sealy bring out one
product that spans so
many more worlds than Acknowledgements
two. This project has been made possibly by my faculty
advisor, Professor Brad Horn. His support, advice and
encouragement have been monumental in refining these
ideas into the project as proposed before you.