TYPES OF

SAMPLING AND
SOURCING

APPAREL MERCHANDISING
AND COSTING UNIT 2 LESSON 1

By Dr. NITHYAPRAKASH V
SAMPLE • Starting from the very first stage of
design development (line
– Physical development), followed is a chain of a
proto sample, fit sample, ad or photo
representation of shoot sample, salesman sample, pre-
a design during production sample (red seal sample),
the GPT sample, size set sample, TOP
developmental sample (gold seal), wash sample,
stages ending up at the final shipment sample
• PROTO SAMPLE
• FIT SAMPLE TYPES
• SALESMAN SAMPLE /
MARKETING SAMPLE OF
• SIZE SET SAMPLE
• GPT SAMPLE SAMPL
• PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE
E
PROTO SAMPLE vs FIT SAMPLE (definition &
features)
PROTO SAMPLE
• DEVELOPED FOR DESIGN
APPEARANCE IN GARMENT FORM –
FIRST PHYSICAL APPEARANCE
BASED ON DESIGN SHEET & FLAT
SKETCH DETAILS.
• USES MATCHES AVAILABLE
FABRIC AND TRIMS.
FIT SAMPLE
• TO ENSURE THE FIT OF THE GARMENT
EITHER ON LIVE MODEL OR ON DUMMY.
• MADE WITH ACTUAL FABRIC AND
TRIMS
• ACCORDING TO THE SPECIFIED
CONSTRUCTION PARAMETERS AND
SIZE DETAILS.
SALESMAN SAMPLE vs SIZESET SAMPLE
(definition & features)
SALESMAN SAMPLE
• MADE TO PRELAUNCH THE STYLE
IN RETAIL AND OBTAIN
FEEDBACK.
• MADE FROM ORIGINAL FABRIC
AND TRIMS REPLICATING THE
DESIRED STYLE AND DESIGN
DETAILS
SIZE SET SAMPLE
• MADE IN PRE-DEFINED SIZE
RANGE OF XS, S, M, L, XL, ETC.,
FOR CONFIRMING THE FINAL
SIZE SPECIFICATION, GRADING
AND RANGE OF THE STYLE.
• MADE IN ORIGINAL FABRIC AND
TRIMS.
GPT
GPT SAMPLE
SAMPLE vs PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE
(GARMENT
(definition & features)
PERFORMANCE PRE-PRODUCTION
TEST) (PP) SAMPLE
• MADE TO ENSURE THE • PP SAMPLE IS MADE FROM BULK
PERFORMANCE OF THE FABRIC AND TRIMS AS
GARMENT IN TERMS OF REPRESENTATIVE OF BULK PRODUCT
FOR QUALITY AND APPERANCE
SHRINKAGE, COLOUR FASTNESS
REFERENCE.
AND SEAM PERFORMANCE.

• INSPECTION OF FINAL BULK QUANITTY

• MADE IN ORIGINAL FABRIC AND WILL BE BASED ON PP SAMPLE
TRIMS STANDARD.
SOURCIN
G
SOURCING

• Process of identifying
right suppliers who can
deliver the material at
right quality and
affordable price
(definition)
 To identify potential suppliers who can
supply raw materials at required quality and
SOURCIN cost in stipulated time.

G – All fashion
suppliers operate Sourcing decisions are made to identify
on a made to which production facility ( own
manufacturing, cut, make sew) CAN
order basis MAKE AND DELIVER IN TIME.
LEAD
TIME IN
SOURCIN
G
LEAD TIME REFERS TO
TIME TAKEN FROM
PLACEMENT OF ORDER
AND DELIVERY (definition).
LEAD TIME CALCULATION FOR
MANUFACTURING SUPPLIER
LEADTIME FOR RAW MATERIALS
• The fabric sourcing itself will take lead time of 30-60 days Depending
upon the type of the fabric.

• For yarn dyed fabric it takes approximately 45 days,

• For piece dyed fabric it takes approx. 30 days and
• For fiber dyed fabric it takes approx. 55-60 days.
• Trims will take approximately 30-45 days
 GAT GATHERING DATA
• Merchandisers post material enquiries to
HERI prospective sellers in web portals and
suppliers.
NG
SOURCIN
G
PROCESS IDEN IDENTIFYING SUPPLIERS
• Merchandiser chooses the supplier
TIFYI based on price, quality and timely
NG delivery or the nominated supplier.
Types of Sourcing
•Full package program
• CMT
•Half package program
•Licensing
•Badge engineering
 Full package program or FPP
(Manufacturing supplier source
Full package materials and produce finished
goods).
program &
Half package Half package program or HPP
program (BUYER Provides materials
and have product development
and production done by
contractors).
 • A service that includes cutting,
trimming and sewing the garment
CMT or Sub into a fully finished product.

contracting
• Buyer provides Tech pack, Fabric,
Cut Make Trim trims and Patterns to the supplier
for producing the fashion goods.
 • Big designer names such as Ralph
Types of Lauren and Calvin Klein give the
rights to use the trademarks and/or
sourcing – technology so products can be
economically produced and efficiently
Licensing marketed by the supplier themselves.
 • Big brands sometimes sources the
Types of garment directly from a supplier or
competitor without labelling and puts
sourcing – on his/her brand label.
Badge Engineering
 Types of Sourcing
Strategies – Low cost sourcing,
Global sourcing & Sourcing through
buying house
Types of • A method of sourcing which focuses
on benefiting from the competitive
sourcing advantage of other countries which are
able to offer lower labor and
strategies – production costs.
Direct Low-cost • The method focuses on cutting overall
operating expenses for a firm, and is in
sourcing itself a procurement strategy..
Types of • The aim may be to get a taste of the

sourcing international market and the way to

carry out business there.
strategies – • Alternatively, the focus could be on
tapping into a new range of skills or
Direct Global resources which would otherwise be
sourcing unavailable domestically
FACTORS/ Risks AFFECTING GLOBAL
SOURCING
• COO – COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: for example, Italian fabrics are very
popular among the customers as they are a mark of technology and style.

• Foreign currency fluctuations: variation in exchange rates

• Taxes: for importing from countries like China, the duties are double.
 • An outsourcing method in which a
Types of client works direct with an
established outsourcing provider
sourcing (buying house) to arrange
procurement; the outsourcing provider
strategies – contracts out the work and bears the
Sourcing through risks.
• All contracts are dealt under offshore
buying house law, as the agreements are between 2
offshore entities.
NOMINATED
SUPPLIER
• Nominated supplier is a supplier
who is chosen by the buyer to
supply materials like fabric,
packaging material and logistics
to gain better control over their
supply chain, get consistent
quality and on time deliveries.
NON-
NOMINATED
SUPPLIER

• Non- nominated
supplier is a suppler
who is chosen by the
exporter to fulfill the
necessary purchase
REQUIREMENTS
 • Government bodies – Suppliers of materials
that are available only in scare quantities. Ex.
Pasmina wool

TYPES OF • Retailers – Firms who work with licensing rights of

brands or badge engineering in multibranded outlets.

SUPPLIER
S • Wholesalers – Firms who stock large quantities of
commodity fabrics (basics) and ensure all season supply.

• Manufacturers - manu­facture a product of their

own.
FUNCTIONS
OF PLANNING, ORGANIZING, DIRECTING,

SUPPLYCHAI
N
MANAGEMEN
T
, CONTROLLING.
COORDINATING
FUNCTIONS OF SUPPLYCHAIN
MANAGEMENT
• PLANNING • ORGANIZING
Analyze sales data, Organizing resources and
forecasting and prepare a preparing the budget for
buying plan. buying.
FUNCTIONS OF SUPPLYCHAIN
MANAGEMENT
• DIRECTING • CONTROLLING
Guide the buyers regarding TAKING Correcting actions
what and how to purchase against the factors weakening
the supply chain business