23th

Fisheries
Observer
Program

Val M. Borja
Nov. 08, 22023 NFRDI
The observer’s job / duties are to:
-Accompany commercial fishing vessels on
fishing trips and record information about the
boat, gear, species caught and discarded, fish
length frequencies, and biological samples.

Observers also record incidental takes of

marine mammals, sea turtles, or sea
birds. Fishing vessel trip durations last from
weeks to months..

Records/document sighting of carriers, mother

boats/catchers, FADs etc.
What is Photography?
Photography is an art form like
drawing and painting.
Photographers use their camera
to make us see life in a different
way, feel emotions, and record
stories and events.
What is a camera?

A device for recording visual images in the

form of photographs, film, or video signals.

Is an optical instrument used to capture

and store images and videos, either
digitally via an electronic image sensor, or
chemically via a light-sensitive material
such as photographic film.
A digital camera encodes images and videos
digitally, and stores them for later
reproduction.

These cameras are integrated into many

devices, such as smartphones and
computers. Many digital cameras can also
record moving videos with sound.

Some digital cameras can crop and stitch

pictures, as well as perform other image
editing.
Why do we take pictures?
(Think about it for a minute)

 To capture /preserve memories

Basically we take pictures

 To communicate/interacts with others

 To reveal, to relate

 To protect and to create evidence

 To document

 To tell stories

 To sell or advertise

 To capture the beauty and wonder of people and places

 Cameras
DSLR

Point and shoot

Digital Point and Shoot Camera

Digital SLR Camera

 Go Pro

Smart Phone Drone

A digital photo - is made up of a
series of pixels (picture elements).

Most of today’s digital photos use a

“24 bit RGB” system to colour each
pixel.

This means that each pixel has a

256 colour.

The resolution of a digital photo is

expressed in terms of "megapixels"
which is total number of pixels in the
photo
 Pixel Counts/ Megapixels

Pixel count is the number of pixels contained

in an image sensor or forming the fabric of a
captured image.

It is usually denoted in megapixels (MP), whe

re one megapixel corresponds to a million pi
xels
12
.

The higher the pixel count, the more detailed

the information derived from the image
2
.
However, it is important to note that pixel co
unt alone does not set a minimum level for d
 RESOLUTION
In photography, resolution refers to the ability
of a camera to distinguish adjacent objects or
details in an image.

It is related to the number of pixels that a

camera or an image has. Pixels are the
smallest units of color and light that make up a
digital image.

Resolution is usually expressed as the width

and height of an image in pixels, such as
3904x2598. It can also be expressed as the
product of these numbers, such as 10,142,592
pixels or megapixels.
Resolution affects the sharpness, detail, and si
ze of an
 What is an SLR?
SLR - Single Lens Reflex -
The camera has a viewfinder that sees through the lens
by way of a 45°-angled mirror that flips up when the
shutter fires and allows the light to strike the image
sensor (or film).
 DSLR
Camera Types

Point and shoot

RBP5
http://photography.about.com/od/camerabasics/ss/camerapresets_4.htm
Camera Lens

Type of Lenses

Different Lenses
Lens •
The lens is where light enters the camera and it handles
converging the light rays, and magnifying or directing an image.

• Sensor •
The sensor is the chip inside the camera that collects light
particles known as photons and interprets them to make a
final image.
•
• User Controls •
User controls are the buttons and dials on the camera that a
person will interact with to change the settings on a camera.

Lens Mount:
The lens mount is a metal area that has been machined into a
particular shape to fit a specific camera body type. Each
camera manufacturer uses a different lens mount design. The
lens is attached to the camera at the lens mount ring by lining
up a small dot on both the camera body and the lens. The lens
is then gently rotated into place. The lens mount also contains
contacts that will match up with contacts on the lens ring
mount to allow the camera to control the lens. Lens Mount
Optical Lens:
On the front of a camera lens there is a glass lens that focuses
light into the camera body and onto the film. Inside the lens
body, there are several other optical lenses that further refine
the image. These lenses are sometimes called "elements".

• Filter Threads:
In front of the first optical lens, there is a small ring with screw
threads cut into it. These screw threads allow for filters and
other accessories to be easily attached to the front of the
lens. Each lens carries a second mm rating that tells the
diameter of this front attachment point.

• Processor

This part of the camera processes the data from the sensor
and renders it as a picture and stores it to the memory card. •
Memory Card • The memory card is where the images are
stored as they are taken.

• Flash
The flash is a small light that goes off when the picture is taken to
add enough light to a scene that may be too dark.
Camera Basics
 The Viewfinder
 Focus
 Choosing your lens
 Aperture and Depth of field
 Controlling Depth of field
 ISO
 Shutter Speed
 Controlling shutter speed
 Lights and Exposure
 Camera Modes
The viewfinder
 EXPOSURE TRIANGLE
(Three technical elements that “make” an image})
Camera Basics # 1. Aperture

What is aperture in photography? The term aperture refers to

the opening of a lens' diaphragm – essentially a hole through
which light passes to reach the camera. By changing your
aperture, you can change and control how much light enters the
camera sensor from your lens.
Aperture explained at a glance

• Aperture is calibrated in f-stops.

• A smaller, narrower opening gives more depth of field.

• An aperture of f/22 is narrower than f/4.

• Your maximum or widest aperture is determined by your lens.

• The diameter of the aperture is focal length divided by the aperture

value. So the diameter of an f/4 setting on a 100mm lens is 25mm
(100mm divided by four).
Points-to-note
- The larger the aperture (i.e. the smaller the f-number), the larger the bokeh.
- The smaller the aperture (i.e. the larger the f-number), the larger the area in-focus (depth-
of-field).
- The amount of light that enters The sensor can be controlled by widening/narrowing The
aperture
The aperture allows us to control the amount of light entering the lens. When the
aperture is widened, more light can enter, and conversely, when the aperture is narrowed,
less light can enter the lens. The numerical values of the difference in aperture size is
known as the f-number. The standard f-numbers are: f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8… etc.
Widening the aperture reduces the f-number whereas narrowing the aperture increases it.

F- Stops
f/
2
2
f/16 f/1.4

f/11 f/8 f/5.6 f/ f/2.8 f/2

4
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.8 STM/ FL:
50mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/1.8,
1/800sec., EV+0.7)/ ISO 100/ WB: Manual
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.8 STM/ FL: 50mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/5.6, 1/80sec., EV+0.7)/ ISO 100/ WB: Manual
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.8 STM/ FL: 50mm/
Aperture-priority AE (f/16, 1/40sec., EV+0.7)/ ISO 400/
WB: Manual
 Camera Basics # 2. Shutter Speed and exposures

Shutter speed is
the length of time the
camera shutter is
open, exposing light
onto the camera
sensor. Essentially,
it’s how long your
camera spends taking
a photo. This has a
few important effects
on how your images
will appear.

Shutter speed helps you “control” the movement of the subject in

your photos.
Points-to-note
- A faster shutter speed
freezes the subject in motion.
- A slower shutter speed
creates a motion blur effect
from the movement of the
subject.
- You can adjust the amount
of light by opening/closing
the shutter.

The shutter speed (also:

exposure time) is the length
of time when the shutter is
open and light can enter the
image sensor inside the
camera. The shutter speed is
indicated as 1 sec, 1/2 sec, 1/4
sec... 1/125 sec to 1/250 sec,
etc.
Let there be light!

All photography
is based on light

Exposure is the total

amount of light allowed
to fall on the film/image
sensor
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-105mm
f/4L IS USM/ FL: 105mm/
Shutter-priority AE (f/14, 1/10
sec., EV+1.3)/ ISO 100, 1/10 sec
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-
105mm f/4L IS USM/ FL:
105mm/ Shutter-priority AE
(f/8, 1/160 sec., EV+1.3)/ ISO
100, 1/160 sec
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-105mm f/4L IS
USM/ FL: 105mm/ Shutter-priority AE (f/4,
1/2500 sec., EV+1.3)/ ISO 400 1/2500 sec
SHUTTER SPEED
2. Shutter speed

The shutter is the device that controls the exposure time of the
photo. The exposure time usually begins at 1/2000 sec. and
goes up to 30 sec.

At 1/250 sec. exposure time, the shutter will let in 2 times more
light than at 1/500 sec. and 2 times less than at 1/125 sec.

Aperture Priority | Shutter Speed 1/25 | Aperture Priority | Shutter Speed 1/1000
Aperture Value 8 | ISO Speed 50 | Aperture Value 3.2 | ISO Speed 50
Shutter speed is used to stop action
1/1000 sec
Canon EOS 500D, f8.0, 1/1600s, ISO 400, 150-500 mm 10.28.11
Manila Bay, 03.20.13 Canon EOS 500 D, f5.6, 1/250, ISO 400, 100-400mm
Or shutter speed can blur motion
1/15 sec
FAST OR SLOW SHUTTER SPEED?
 Camera Basics #3: Exposure

Exposure is one of the major

factors that can make or break
a picture. Let us talk about how
we can go about make best use
of exposure to get the best
results from a shot. (Reported
by: Tomoko Suzuki)

Exposure” refers to the brightness in a picture as

decided by the interaction between aperture and
shutter speed

Points-to-note
- Cameras are equipped with an Auto exposure (AE) function.
- We refer to brightness that is calculated and set by the camera as
“correct exposure”.
- If the correct exposure is not satisfactory, you can use exposure
compensation to adjust it.
Look at examples (3), (5) and (7) below. They are the results of a different
combination of shutter speed and aperture. But you see the same brightness
(exposure) in the pictures.

Examples (3), (5) and (7) are all of the same brightness (correct exposure)
Example (1) is overexposed
Example (9) is underexposed
Camera Basics # 3. ISO
Let there be light — but how much light?
ISO controls the amount of light your camera lets in and therefore, how
dark or light your photos will be. Here are some top tips to help calculate
correct exposure:

• Low values, such as ISO 100, are best for a sunny outdoor shoot
• For shooting at night — or indoors with dim lighting — use an ISO of
1600 or higher
• Keep the ISO setting as low as possible to minimize graininess and
noise
• If movement is involved, you’ll need to pair a high ISO with a fast
shutter speed,
Camera Basics: ISO Speed

ISO speed plays an equally

important role as aperture
and shutter speed in its effect
on exposure. Now let us learn
more about the advantages
and disadvantages of turning
up the ISO speed. (Reported
by: Tomoko Suzuki)
Selecting the right ISO.
Here are a few general rules for finding the right sensitivity level for your DSLR or
mirrorless camera’s digital sensor.
ISO 100:
This is the best choice for shooting outdoors on sunny days — the brightest situation
you’ll likely be shooting in.
ISO 400:
When the lighting is still good, but less intense — like indoors by a window or
outside on a cloudy day — a slightly higher ISO is ideal.
ISO 800:
If you’re shooting indoors without an additional light source like a flash, you’ll be
working in this range.
ISO 1600:
When it’s dark out, or if you’re shooting indoors with dim lighting, you’ll need a
high ISO. If movement is involved, you’ll want to pair that high ISO with a fast
shutter speed as well.

“When the sun is bright outdoors, I barely adjust ISO,” photographer Ivy Chen
says. “But when the sun is setting or I’m shooting inside and light conditions
change, I’ll start upping my ISO to keep my photos properly exposed.” And while
this guide gives you a good start, understanding ISO will be greatly informed by
how you adapt while shooting.
 In Digital photography ISO measures the
sensitivity of the image sensor in your camera.

Same principles apply as in

film photography—the lower the number
the less sensitive your camera is to
light and the finer the Grain.

Higher ISO
setting are used in darker situation to
get faster shutter speeds.
ISO scale starts 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3,200, 6400

Lower Number = Lower Sensitivity = Finer Quality Photos

From left:
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.4 USM/ FL:
50mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/5.6, 2.5 sec, EV-
0.7)/ ISO 100/ WB: Auto
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.4 USM/ FL:
50mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/5.6, 1/6 sec, EV-
0.7)/ ISO 1600/ WB: Auto
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.4 USM/ FL:
50mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/5.6, 1/50 sec, EV-
0.7)/ ISO 12800/ WB: Auto
Keyword: ISO AUTO
When moving from a bright
environment to a dark one, remember
to turn up the ISO speed, otherwise
there will be a risk of camera shake. If
you think you may forget, you can
leave the camera in ISO AUTO mode.
This is a convenient feature that
automatically adjusts the ISO speed on
the camera so that the shutter speed
setting will be fast enough to prevent
camera shake. It can also prevent the
camera from using the same high ISO
speed to take photos even after you
have shifted to a bright environment
from a dark one.

White balance makes sure your pictures
turn out with the appropriate colour tone for
the lighting.
Camera Basics #4: White Balance
White balance is a feature that
ensures that the colour white is
reproduced accurately
regardless of the type of lighting
under which a photo is taken. At
a very basic level, it is common
to use the Auto White Balance
setting. However, this setting is
no one-size-fits-all solution. For
a white balance setting that best
suits the lighting source, choose
one of the preset white balance
settings on your camera.
(Reported by Tomoko Suzuki)

Points-to-note
- Its original function is to ensure that white appears white in your
photos.
- You can also use it to add a colour cast to your photos.
The difference between the various white balance presets.
 Auto Daylight
All examples shot with: EOS 5D Mark III/ EF50mm f/1.4 USM/ FL: 50mm/ Aperture-
priority AE (f/1.4, 1/6400 sec, EV+1)/ ISO 100
 Keyword 1: Auto White Balance (AWB)

Auto Daylight
All examples shot with: EOS 5D Mark II/ EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM/
FL: 70mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/4, 1/250 sec, EV-1)/ ISO 100
 Camera Basics #5: Metering

The metering function

measures the brightness of a
subject and decides how much
exposure is best for the photo.
Let’s take a look at each
metering mode available, and
get a better idea of which of
them to use is best to use
under which conditions/scene.
(Reported by Tomoko Suzuki)

The metering function serves to measure the

brightness of a subject.

Points-to-note
- Evaluative metering can be used for almost all scenes.
- Spot metering is most effective when there is a particular part of the
subject that you want correctly exposed.
- Each metering mode has a set of scenes/shooting conditions that it works
best in. Consider this when selecting the mode.
 Evaluative metering

Benefits: Versatile;
seldom gives the
wrong exposure.
Drawbacks: Doesn’t
work well for scenes
where one area differs
greatly in brightness
level from the rest.

EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM/ FL: 88mm/

Shutter-priority AE (f/11, 1/4 sec, EV+0.3)/ ISO 100/ WB: Auto
In evaluative metering, the camera breaks the image frame
down into a number of different zones, measures the amount
of light in each zone, and then analyses the findings to
determine the optimal exposure.
 Spot metering

Benefits: Handles scenes

with stark differences in
brightness level well.

Drawbacks: Metering is
carried out only in a very
small area, so any mistakes
in selecting this area could
easily lead to incorrect
exposure for the entire
image.

EOS 60D/ EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS/ FL: 135mm

(216mm equivalent)/ Aperture-priority AE (f/5.6, 1/250
sec, EV-0.3)/ ISO 100/ WB: Daylight
Spot Metering
 Camera Basics #6
Establishing Focus
The one thing that enables the
photographer to convey his
photographic intent to the
viewer is establishing the focus.
What are the secrets to
establishing the best focus?
Let’s find out more about the
special features of autofocus
(AF) and manual focus (MF).
(Reported by: Tomoko Suzuki)

There are two ways of establishing focus: Using
the camera autofocus system, or manual
selection and adjustment
Points-to-note
- “AF” refers to “autofocus”.
This is when the camera tunes
itself to establish the best focus
when taking a photo.
- “MF” refers to “manual focus”.
This is when the photographer
adjusts the focus manually to
establish the focus.
Establishing focus is a basic skill in
photo taking. There are two ways to
establish focus. The first is
through autofocus (AF) operation,
where the camera automatically
establishes focus. The second is
through manual focus (MF) operation,
where the photographer adjusts the
focus by hand.
 AF
Benefits: Can establish focus
quickly
Drawbacks: Some subjects and
scenes are not ideal for
establishing focus
Since AF establishes focus
quickly, it is very convenient in
most situations. But sometimes
there are subjects or scenes that
are not ideal for establishing
focus. It is wise to switch to MF
when the situation calls for it.
EOS 80D/ EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM/
FL: 124mm (198mm equivalent)/ Aperture-
priority AE (f/5.6, 1/200 sec, EV-0.3)/ ISO 3200/
WB: Auto

EOS 6D/ EF50mm f/1.8 STM/ FL: 50mm/
Aperture-priority AE (f/3.5, 1/40 sec, EV-0.7)/
ISO 100/ WB: Auto
Benefits: Can observe the
subject with our own eyes as we
establish focus
Drawbacks: Takes more time
before we can actually shoot
As we can observe the subject
while we adjust the focus in MF,
it makes it possible to establish a
more precise focus. Nevertheless,
the whole process takes more
time. We have to spend time
establishing focus before we can
go into the actual shooting.
 Camera Basics #7: AF Modes
When establishing focus on a
subject, it is vitally important
to anticipate the subject’s
movement and capture it at
the right moment. This means
it is essential to know the
appropriate autofocus (AF)
mode to use for a stationary
subject, and which to use when
the subject is moving. Let us
Select an AF mode that best suits the subject’s movement take a closer look at the 3
characteristics types of AF modes. (Reported
Points-to-note
by Tomoko Suzuki)
- When the subject is stationary, select One Shot AF.
- When the subject is in motion, select AI Servo AF.
- When a subject’s motion is unpredictable, select AI Focus AF.
AI Servo AF
EOS 7D Mark II/ EF70-200mm f/4L IS
USM/ FL: 135mm (216mm equivalent)/
Aperture-priority AE (f/4, 1/1250 sec,
EV±0)/ ISO 160/ WB: Auto
Benefits: Is able to sustain focus on a
subject in motion
Drawbacks: Difficult to establish
focus onto the precise spot or location
you want to
The camera keeps on establishing
focus as long as the shutter button
half-pressed, which makes it best
suited for shooting subjects that are
constantly moving away from or
towards the camera. However, it may
be hard to obtain that perfect picture
composition you want since fine focus
is not so easily achieved.
 Camera Basics #8: Picture Style
With the Picture Style function,
you can adjust the colour tone
and the contrast to enhance the
charm and appeal of the subject.
By selecting the perfect Picture
Style setting, you can get perfect
results in expressing your
shooting intent in a vivid photo.
(Reported by Tomoko Suzuki)

Picture Style allows you to change the contrast and colour tone of
the photo to your own liking
Points-to-note
- Able to adjust the settings to suit the subject and your shooting
intent.
- Able to customize the settings in the preset settings.
Picture styles

1. Auto
2. Standard
3. Portrait
4. Landscape
5. Neutral
6. Monochrome
7. Sports
8. Night
Portrait
Night Portrait
Landscape
Sports
 Camera Basics #9:
Position and Angle
The position and angle are two elements
that greatly influence the outcome of your
photos. Since they have such a significant
impact, varying them ensures that you will
be able to get a different effect in your
photos. In the following, we go over 3 points
each in relation to the position and the
angle. (Reported by Tomoko Suzuki)

Position: The level where you hold the camera

Angle: The degree at which the camera faces the subject

Points-to-note
- You can change the composition of your photos based on the position and angle.
- Decide on a position before choosing an angle.
The position refers to the height at which the camera is held relative to the ground.

Holding the camera at a normal position to your eye is known as ‘eye-level position’,
holding it at a position higher than your eye is referred to ‘high position’, and holding
the camera at a low level, such as when you are squatting, is known as ‘low position’.

The angle refers to the degree at which the camera points towards the subject.
Holding the camera at a horizontal level to the subject is known as ‘eye-level angle’,
holding the camera facing downwards is known as ‘high angle’, and holding it facing
upwards is known as ‘low angle’.
High position

Hold the camera at a high position by

raising your arms above your eye level, or
get into a higher position with the aid of a
footstool or platform. This shooting position
allows you to capture further into the
background. Combining this with a high
angle creates a bold perspective
Eye-level position

This is a standard shooting position at a

height where you look into the viewfinder
while standing. Since it results in photos that
simply capture what you can see, it gives the
most realistic representation of what you are
shooting. However, it can feel monotonous
when all your pictures are taken from this
position.
Low position

This is a position where you hold the

camera at a height lower than your eye
level. Since it captures a different view
from what you usually see, it can result in
impactful photos. Combining this with a
low angle amplifies this effect.
High angle

This is an angle where you tilt the camera

downwards to face the subject, which is
also referred to as a bird’s eye view. As
this captures the subject in its entirety, it
results in a descriptive picture which
clearly captures the surroundings as you
see them. Since the ground tends to form
the background in the picture, you may
want to adjust your choice of background.
Eye-level angle

This is a standard shooting angle where you

hold the camera to the same height as your
eye level without tilting it. As you are shooting
at the same eye level as the subject, which is
the same level as normal human vision, the
result appears natural and familiar, and has a
sense of stability.
Low angle

This is an angle where you point the camera

upwards at the subject. When shooting a tall
or high subject from a low angle, it creates a
sense of depth and intimidation, which
allows you to depict the presence and
intensity of the subject. Since the sky usually
forms the background, it is easy to adjust the
photo composition.
Left)
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-70mm f/2.8L II
USM/ FL: 24mm/ Aperture-priority AE
(f/4, 1/30 sec, EV+0.3)/ ISO 160/ WB: Auto
Shooting at an eye-level position
At this position, the suspension bridge
appears shorter and loses a sense of depth,
which results in a neutral picture that does
not convey much intensity.
(Right)
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM/ FL:
24mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/4, 1/40 sec, EV+0.3)/
ISO 200/ WB: Auto
Shooting at a low position
This is was taken from a squatting position at eye
level without changing the angle. Since this makes the
suspension bridge seem farther from the front to the
end, it conveys a sense of depth.
(Left)
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-70mm f/2.8L II
USM/ FL: 24mm/ Aperture-priority AE
(f/4, 1/30 sec, EV+0.3)/ ISO 160/ WB:
Auto
Shooting at an eye-level position
At this position, the suspension bridge
appears shorter and loses a sense of
depth, which results in a neutral picture
that does not convey much intensity.
(Right)
EOS 5D Mark III/ EF24-70mm f/2.8L II
USM/ FL: 24mm/ Aperture-priority AE (f/8,
1/30 sec, EV+0.7)/ ISO 400/ WB: Daylight
Shooting at a high angle
I tilted the camera at an angle lower than the
eye level. The perspective is exaggerated, as
the front of the picture appears wider and
the far end of the picture appears smaller.
CREATIVE SCENE
MODES MODES
Program Portrait

Time Value Land Scape

Aperture (Priority) Value Macro

Manual
Sports/Action
Auto-Depth of field

Night Portrait Mode

Video

Portrait
Flash
 CHARACTERISTICS OF MACRO MODE

● An automatic mode with emphasis on settings for close-up

photography

● Commonly used to photographing flowers, insects and other

small items

● Some cameras may be able to focus when the lens is less than
an inch away from the subject

● Creates a very shallow depth of field

Which One?
Program
 CHARACTERISTICS OF PROGRAM MODE

● Aperture and shutter speed are set by the camera, but can be
shifted using the control dial, with the exposure staying the
same

● Unlocks some other settings in your camera that gives you

more control over the final image : ISO setting, white balance,
exposure compensation

● Great for quickly getting a photograph without having to think

too hard about settings
TV-SHUTTER PRIORITY
 CHARACTERISTICS OF TV MODE
● TV means time value

● Shutter priority: set the shutter speed and calculates the

matching aperture

● To photograph moving subjects (sporting action). A faster

shutter speed will freeze the motion

● To capture movement as a blur of a waterfall, choose a slower

shutter speed
AV-APERTURE PRIORITY
 CHARACTERISTICS OF AV MODE

● AV means aperture value

● Manually control the aperture while the camera sets the

matching shutter speed

● Particularly useful to control a stationary object where you

don’t need to control the shutter speed

● Choosing a larger aperture (f/stop) means the lens will get

smaller and it will let less light in so a larger depth of field
(more of the area in focus), but your camera will choose a
faster shutter speed and vice versa
MANUAL
 CHARACTERISTICS OF
MANUAL MODE

● Full control over camera settings such: shutter speed, aperture,

ISO, white balance and exposure compensation

● Gives you the flexibility to set your shots the way you want them
to be

● Can result in creative and non-traditional exposures

 CHARACTERISTICS OF PORTRAIT MODE

● An automatic mode with emphasis on settings for a perfect

portrait shot.

● The ability of the camera to detect if there are faces in the

image and to ensure they are all in focus

● Sets a wide aperture of the lens so that the background behind

your subject is softly focused (shallow depth of field)
 CHARACTERISTICS OF LANDSCAPE
MODE
● Narrows the aperture, so both the subject and background
stay sharp (deep depth of field)

● Foreground, middle ground, and background are all in focus

● Exposure compensation for entire frame

 CHARACTERISTICS OF ACTION/SPORTS
MODE

● Represented by an icon of a sprinter, this is perfect for taking

pictures of moving objects

● Also good for shooting children or pets in action

● Can give you higher shutter speeds to stop action, along with
a smaller aperture so that more of the action will be in focus
 CHARACTERISTICS OF NIGHT PORTRAIT
MODE

● Usually symbolized by a figure against a dark sky with a star

● Fires the flash to illuminate a nearby subject and then holds the
shutter open long enough for the background to be exposed
FLASH
 CHARACTERISTICS OF FLASH MODE

● Auto- Flash Off

● Flash On (mandatory flash, useful for filling in shadows when

shooting in daylight)

● Auto + Red-eye reduction-

● Flash On + Red-eye reduction

● Soft Flash (Diffused flash)

● Slow-sync flash (Second-curtain flash)

Use Flash to Stop Motion Or to Illuminate Darkness
FOCUS
Blurry Picture Sharp Picture
 Center of Interest
(Subject, Focus, Point of Interest)
 The most successful pictures are composed around one main
point of interest –

 Having a strong point of interest or main focal point in a

picture draws the viewer’s attention and focuses it on the point
you want to make
 The point of interest doesn’t have to be just one person one
or object. However, the other objects in the picture
 Rule of Thirds

Before you snap the picture, imagine your picture area divided
into thirds both horizontally and vertically.

The intersections of these imaginary lines suggest four options

for placing the center of interest for good composition.

The option you select depends upon the subject and how you
would like that subject to be presented
RULE OF THIRDS

This is probably the first compositional rule that any photographer

comes across and that’s for a very good reason: it’s simple and it works.

The basic premise is that you divide your camera’s frame into thirds and plant
key objects on these lines; the composition will work better.

Photos that are correctly composed using the rule of thirds create
depth and interest, adding an exciting balance between subject(s)
and background.
Rule of Thirds
One photograph uses rule of thirds and the other uses central focus.

Central Focus Rule of Thirds

Which photograph do you find more interesting?

WHY?
136
 Point of View
Try selecting and unusual point of view.

Above
Eye Level Below

Where was the photographer standing for each picture?

F
o
c P
u r
s o
i c
n e
g d
u
r
e
s
 Tips on Shooting Digital Photos
1. Know Your Camera

2. Learn to Control the Flash

3. Play with the Macro Mode

4. Hold the Camera Level

5. Use The Tripod

6. Play with the ISO Setting

7. Have Enough Memory Capacity

How to Photograph Fish.
1. Photograph newly catch or fresh fish.
-Colour of fish fade rapidly after death

2. Spread out the fins of the fish.

- use sewing pins on flat Styrofoam or cardboard

Fins not spread Fins spread

3. Wet fish should blotted dry.
- use cloth or paper to prevent harsh glare when photographed

4. Fish should be placed on a suitable contrasting background

 5. For sharp focus, photograph the fish as close as lens allow.

Photo by: Adonis Bendanio

6. When taking photographs, position a ruler or another object
whose length is known next to the fish or specimen.
Marine Mammals
Sightings
Handlines
Fish Carriers
Purse Seine
FAD Sightings
Digital Imaging Workflow
1.Preparation
2.Shooting
3.Transferring
4.Organizing
5.Processing
6.Archiving
7.Outputting
Preparation

Select digicam and

accessories
Check batteries
Clean the camera
Adjust controls
Extra memory
cards
Field storage

Back
Shooting

Autofocus
Back White balance
Set other controls
Review images
Remove unwanted
images

Back
 Transferring
Decide on a
transfer location
Memory card
transfer
Cable transfer
Infrared transfer
Organizing

Sort through
images
Print contact
sheets
Rank images in
groups
Separate the
keepers

Back
 Processing
Working file format (TIFF)
Evaluate images
Make overall adjustments
Make local adjustments
Save as master
Sharpen image
 Outputting
Select output
File format
Email
Slide shows
Prints

Back
File Format
 Refers to the way the computer stores
the data
 More common formats include:
 JPEG
 EXIF
 TIFF
 RAW
JPEG
 Stands for Joint Photography Experts
Group
 Most widely used format
 Biggest advantage - can compress image
data
 Do not edit JPEG images in photo-editing
programs to minimize data loss
EXIF
 Stands for Exchange Image File Format
 Used by many digicams
 Is a variation of the JPEG format
 Stores extra data as metadata with the
image file
 Metadata stores shutter speed, aperture,
and other capture settings
TIFF
 Stands for Tagged Image File Format
 Is the choice for bringing images into
publishing programs
 Does not compress as much as JPEG
 Choose when picture quality is more
important than file size
RAW
 Simply means raw
 Used by high-resolution digicams
 Does not include any in-camera
processing features
 Provides a truer version of the scene in
front of the camera
 Large file size

Back
 Data
Storage
Factors when buying a digital camera:
Battery Life
Number of Megapixels
Zoom Lens
Exposure Control
User Controls
Final things to remember…
 These are only guidelines – every rule has an exception!
 Always remember your framing and exposure!
 There’s a lot more to learn and discover!

Practice Makes Perfect !

That’s All Folks