Principles of formulation

and building blocks of

Hair care products:
Shampoo
 Function of the hair
• Thermoregulation

• Protection

• Heat insulation on head

• Facilitation of evaporation in perspiration

• Aside from a few places, like the palms of our hands or
the soles of our feet, the entire surface of our body has
hair on it.
• The two main types of hair are the shorter and thinner
"vellus" hairs (peach fuzz) found on the body and the
longer and thicker "terminal" hairs.
• Examples of terminal hairs include the hair on your
head, facial hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, pubic hair, chest
hair and belly hair
 Each hair has a hair shaft and a hair root.
 The shaft is the visible part of the hair that sticks out of the skin. The hair root
is in the skin and extends down to the deeper layers of the skin.
 It is surrounded by the hair follicle (a sheath of skin and connective tissue),
which is also connected to a sebaceous gland.
 Each hair follicle is attached to a tiny muscle (arrector pili) that can make the
hair stand up. Many nerves end at the hair follicle too. T
 These nerves sense hair movement and are sensitive to even the slightest draft.
 At the base of the hair, the hair root widens to a round hair bulb.
 The hair papilla, which supplies the hair root with blood, is found inside the
bottom of the hair bulb. New hair cells are constantly being made in the hair
bulb, close to the papilla.
• HAIR BULB
Each individual hair grows from its own hair follicle, a
sheath of skin and connective tissue that has its own blood
supply and oil gland.
The hair bulb is located at the base of each hair follicle and
contains all the growing cells of each hair.
As the cells divide they are pushed out of the hair bulb,
hardening and sprouting from the scalp.
Pigment cells called melanocytes in the hair bulb are what
influence hair color, and the shape of the opening of each
hair follicle affects the texture of each strand of hair
HAIR ROOT
The hair root is the section of each hair that extends below
the surface of the skin. It is anchored inside the hair follicle,
and widens at the base into the hair bulb. Nerves, blood
supply, muscles and oil glands are all attached to the hair
root, supplying everything it needs for healthy hair growth
HAIR SHAFT
The hair shaft is the part of the hair that is visible above the scalp.
It’s made up of a strong protein called keratin, which is the same
material as your fingernails .
The hair shaft consists of the cuticle, the cortex and sometimes the
medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer of the hair,
adding shine, maintaining hydration and protecting the inner shaft
from damage. The cortex contains the keratin filaments of each hair
strand and the pigment, and the health of the cortex generally
depends on the integrity of the cuticle. The medulla is the innermost
layer of the hair shaft and is found in thick or coarse hair - fine or
naturally blonde hair may not have a medulla.
Introduction:
Definition
A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant(i.e. surface active
material) in a suitable form – liquid, solid or powder –
which when used under the specified conditions will remove
surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and
scalp without adversely affecting the user
 Shampoos are needed..
1. Completely remove dirt
2. Protect the hair
3. Soothe the scalp skin
4. Treat dandruff, lice or other scalp problems
Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. Mainly anionic surfactants are used.
The raw materials used in the manufacture of shampoos are:
1. Principal surfactants: Provide detergency and foam.
2. Secondarysurfactants: Improve detergency, foam and hair condition.
3. Otheradditives.
Working of Shampoos
 Requirements of a
1. Shampoo:
It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty substances
and loose corneal cells from the hair.
2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user.
3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
4. It should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good manageability and minimum fly away.
5. It should impart a pleasant fragnance to the hair.
6. It should not cause any side-effects / irritation to skin or eye.
7. It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
Shampoo
Types
Powder Shampoo
Liquid Shampoo
Lotion Shampoo
Cream Shampoo
Jelly Shampoo
Aerosol Shampoo
Specialized Shampoo
◦ Conditioning
Shampoo
◦ •Anti- dandruff
Shampoo•
◦ Baby Shampoo
◦ •Two Layer
Shampoo
Formulation additives of Shampoos
 Shampoo:
Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, herbal extracts, egg derivatives.
ADDITIVES
Foambuilders: Lauroylmonoethanolamide,sarcosinates
◦ Viscosity modifiers : Electrolytes –NH4Cl, NaCl
◦ Natural gums –Gum Karaya, tragacanth, alginates
◦ Cellulose derivatives –Hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose
◦ Carboxyvinyl polymers –Carbopol934
◦ Others –PVP, phosphate esters.

Sequestering agents : EDTA

Opacifying agents: Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids, propylene glycol, Mg, Ca and
Zn salts of stearicacid, spermaceti, etc.
Clarifying agents: Solubilizing alcohols –ethanol, isopropanolPhosphates –
◦Non‐ionic solubilizers–polyethoxyatedalcohols and esters.
 Shampoo: ADDITIVES

Perfumes: Herbal, fruity or floral fragnances.

Preservatives: Methyl and propylparaben, formaldehyde (most
effective).
Anti‐dandruff agents:The shampoos contain small amount of the
seactives,which are in contact with the scalp for only a short time.
In order to be effective the active ingredient must work in the oil‐
water environment of the scalp and must be readily substantive to
the scalp for continuing activity.
Ex: Selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithone, salicylic acid.
Formulation Ingredients: Water
This is the main ingredient in all shampoo preparations, comprising about 60-80% of the
solution.
It aids in diluting the cleaning agents, thereby reducing irritation.
It makes the shampoo formula easier to spread on the hair and scalp.
Formulation Ingredients: Surfactants
Surfactants form the ‘heart’ of most shampoo formulations
Surfactants are compounds that lower the interfacial tension of a between two phases.
These are molecules that possess both hydrophillic and lipophillic moieties in their structure.
they get adsorbed on the interface and helps the phases to misciblize.
1. Principal surfactants: Provide detergency and foam.
2. Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency, foam and hair condition.
Formulation Ingredients: Surfactants
Anionic surfactants are mostly used (good foaming properties). The hydrophilic portion carries a
negative charge which results in superior foaming, cleaning and
end result attributes.
Non-ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties but do not have sufficient foaming power.
Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used. However, they may be used in low
concentration in hair conditioners.
• Ampholytics, being expensive, are generally not used. However, they are mainly used
as
secondary surfactants and good hair conditioners.
Formulation Ingredients: Surfactants
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES) play similar role in shampoos.
SLS is a skin, eye and respiratory tract irritant (inherently toxic to aquatic organisms).
To make it less irritating, it is ethoxylated (by adding ethylene oxide), resulting in SLES.
Formulation Ingredients: Foaming
Agents
These agents are used to introduce gas bubbles into the water. The foam, also known as lather,
is important, as it functions to spread the detergent over the hair and scalp, but it does not
participate in cleaning.
It is true that a shampoo applied to dirty hair will not foam as much as the same shampoo
applied to clean hair. This is due to the sebum inhibiting bubble formation. Thus, a shampoo will
foam less on the first shampooing and more on the second shampooing.
Some of the prescription corticosteroid shampoos do not foam as much as cosmetic shampoos,
but this does not mean their cleaning is inadequate.
Examples: Lauroyl monoethanolamide, sarcosinates
Formulation Ingredients: Sequestering
Agents
These are the agents to chelate magnesium and calcium ions, present in hard water
preventing formation of insoluble soaps (scum).
This scum film will make hairs look dull and may contribute to itching and symptoms of
seborrheic dermititis.
Eg:EDTA
Formulation Ingredients:pH Adjusters
These agents are used to prevent the hair shaft from alkalinisation.
Most detergents are having alkaline pH, which causes hair shaft swelling.
This swelling loosens the protective cuticle predisposing the hair shaft to damage.
Example: Citric acid, Glycollic acid
Formulation Ingredients: Thickening Agents
These agents are used shampoo thick and creamy. Thickening may be achieved by adding salts
or gums.
Gums improve viscosity because of their gel-like properties.
Eg:Tragacanth gum, Gum Karaya, Carboxy methyl cellulose.
the way the surfactants pack together and form three-dimensional structures in the product will
decide the rheology of a shampoo
Formulation Ingredients: Opacifying
Agents
Chemical agents added to the preparation to make it opaque, so that light does not pass
through.
These are usually added to give pearly shine, which offers improved cleansing. It
provides only optical effect.
Eg: Spermaceti, Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids, propylene glycol, Mg, Ca and Zn salts of
stearic acid etc
Formulation Ingredients: Perfumes
Shampoos include perfumes that are
mostly concentrated.
Example: Fruit fragrance
 Conditioning Shampoo
• Two in one shampoo and conditioner products became popular in the 80’s
because consumers were using shampoo regularly but not conditioning
enough so brands began to incorporate conditioning ingredients into this
shampoo formula.
• The critical aspects of 2 in 1 shampoo is compatibility of ingredients. Most
of the conditioners are cationic but most of the surfactants in shampoos are
anionic with negative charge.
• Procter and Gamble proved that something left behind on hair that
conditioned it.
• Polyquarternium -10 , Dimethicone
• Suspension system holds conditioning agent
• Compatibility issue
 Conditioners
The conditioner functions to impart manageability, gloss, and antistatic
properties to the hair. These are usually fatty alcohols, fatty esters, vegetable
oils, mineral oils, or humectants.
Commonly used conditioning substances include hydrolyzed animal
protein, glycerin, dimethicone, simethicone, polyvinylpyrrolidone,
propylene glycol etc.
Protein-derived substances are popular conditioners for damaged hair, as they
can temporarily mend split ends.
Split ends arise when the protective cuticle has been lost from the distal hair
shaft and the exposed cortex splits.
The protein derived substances holds the cortex fragments together until the next
shampooing occurs.
 Brand
Pantene Pro V repair and Protect 2 in 1
shampoo + conditioner
OptiDerma 2 in 1 shampoo + conditioner
pert plus 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner
Description
Cleanse, moisturize and repair damage all
in one
It locks moisture around each hair strand
Formulated with natural wheat extreact to
provide moisture balance and protective
properties
Soft and smooth hair
Enriched with bamboo extract
Improve hair strength
Prevent hair breakage and improve overall
hair volume and growth
Conditioning shampoo
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride ….. 5.5%
Ethylene glycol monostearate……………………………2%
Cetyl Alcohol
……………………………………………………2.5%
Water
…………………………………………………………..qs
Color , Prefume and Preservative……………………qs
Hair Conditioners
Mechanism
Types pf the Hair conditioners
Ingredients in Hair conditioners
Dandruff is a chronic ,non inflammatory condition of the scalp that is
characterized by excessive scaling of scalp tissue. It is not a disease but
rather a normal physiological event unaccepted socially

The scaling process:

Epidermal cells on the scalp slough continually just as on other parts of
the body,. However , the epidermal cell turnover on the scalp occurs at a
higher rate and involves the infundibulum of the hair follicle.
Dandruff flakes appear around a hair shaft due to the epithelial growth at
the base of the hair.
The hair restricts the elimination of sloughed keratin, creating a visible
scale
Anti Dandruff shampoos
Types of Dandruff
HAIR OILS
Benefits of the mineral oils
Indian Standards of the mineral oil