Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Art in Dress - Percy Clement Brown (1922)
Art in Dress - Percy Clement Brown (1922)
,,.jBmiit'^-::w^
Class
JIX5i5,
Book
.fi^^
Copyriglit^?
COraRICHT DEPOSm
^'Art in Dress"
'By
P.
Clement Brown
^1
SEP 25
s^^
'22
CI.A6833 76
/g?^3
DEDICATED
TO
MY MOTHER
CopyrigKt
P.
b^J
CLEMENT BROWN
620 Fiftk Avenue
New
York
City,
IQ22
N. Y.
First Edition
P.
New York
City,
New
York.
Ten
Introduction
The
show how
it is
possible
toi
become an Original
Designer.
P. Clement
possible question
by Descriptions
and Illustrations from his Pen and Brush, carefully carried out in diagrams
of Patterns.
How
How
any
to think out
to
own
success.
(Professional Patterns) in
size.
may
line
comes
first
and each
detail follows in
Eleven
known
as a Designer.
Model
De Luxe
Design
The elements
and
fabrics, color,
of
Beauty
of
At
first it is
Taking
first
the
Silhouette Lines, which are the outside line forecasting the Fashion of the)
Day.
It is the outline of
may
it
be a chemise, or
From
lines.
yoke
line,
exterior lines
line,
chemise).
we have
expanded
interior lines.
Our governing
lines
Top
of
of
possibility.
As you
them
mind a
line,
an original
now
line.
The idea
Make
Harmony
of Lines that
of Line
you are
is
Remember,
line
in
your
and substitute
lines.
Do
One
same
form
to
by amateur
a part of the
Try
Lines
lines.
when
away
your Fashions.
is
by
far
line
Designer
is to
"Know
to quit".
Do
art
embroidery, ribbons
lines.
Lines
to
applied art.
Twelve
Line
discussion of Line Construction
The
If it is
is
without Line,
The
it is
without Style.
It is of equal
is
deter-
of
Line
is
is
given to a Model.
It
Good
Line can be used without Color, but Color cannot be used to advantage withIt is the
out Line.
Line
for
is
permanency.
It
It is
constructed
is
Through
Style
Hem
and
radius.
Common
of Skirt Lines.
Common
Neck Lines
In
You
can
dif-
by curvature
tion
ferent designs.
of Line.
line
is
forming something
Panels, Side
angle
For instance, take a Square Neck Line, cut the corners open
An
Seam
new
Lines, and
Edge
yet wearable.
Hem
of Skirts
This cuts
of Sleeves,
Edge
of
Logic.
produces a majestic
Do
not
effect.
make an extreme
your supporting
These are
like the
Making
a line prominent
it
weakens
lines.
Lines that extend at right angles or across, like Chest Line, Bust Line,
Waist Line,
Top
of
boldly cut
Thirteen
etc.,
away
of
Their predominance
is position.
Do
The
noto
two
different objects.
Divisional Lines
The
First:
example,
finish
it
must be
Correct
logical.
it.
line to
For
in designing.
Second
You must
must be
so that
will
it
if
out,
and jogs
It is better to
Third:
make up
easily,
is
work
Conformity of Line
Interior Line
You
Line must be
used as Decoration.
The
effective conception of
Line
is
"Common
Sense Line".
Fourteen
The Psychology
programme
of Designing
influence, references
Designing
Indian,
We
who had
and
is
and writings.
By
a reasoning process.
is
every"
day
explained by applicable
facts,
perception, relation,
is
Being.
The
of
of lessons, illustrations
The Art
Human
Clement Brown
is
creations.
embodied in the
mind
of cultural Individuality.
new and
profitable ideas.
mind
to
Profits.
Designing
is
purely mental.
is latent.
Gradually,
valuable asset.
The
principal of designing
because of
its
popular
The
line.
is
is
It is
work upon. As
its
a spider spins
its
Mind
Make your
Artist Designer,
must have
bits
may
that Molds,
way.
acceptable
a skeleton to
is
commonly known
It is
You may
either
be an
best atelier of
Fabric.
The important
you employ.
This
done
like a
is
Fifteen
a cultural development.
Powers
of Attraction that
It is a
Mechanic
Scientific
Design-
in France
and
has
now
spread through
You
America.
all
"If
it is
worn
ment but
of
Dress" derived
its
gift to
It
by the
"Art in Dress"
It is
is
Some have
mind, tempera-
It is the satisfaction of
is
its
Beauty.
is classified
an expression of Individuality.
for
has
analyze
at Large."
The "Art
It
We may
Designed."
it is
"World
by
Ecclesiastical
to Theatrical.
Architectural
Anatomy (From
Comprising
the French).
Making
Designers
Professional
To-Morrow
of Pattern Blocks (a
to
Book thoroughly
To-day
Yesterday,
of
System Used by
in
France" Way).
Department
of Designing,
in Dress";
Originals can be
made
and
in
from
it
on a
all sizes,
with-
The
Models are
you
"How
saleable,
it is
and
this
how many
of his
instructs
Done."
By
P.
CLEMENT BROWN
of
City,
New York
San Francisco,
Paris,
France
Calif.
Sixteen
Eighteen
Profile Face
First
AB
your Line
shown
points
C, D, E,
F and G
Next
1, 2, 3, 4.
these points
draw Line
Line
and
between
Line AB.
of the nose
on both sides
(on F) and that will give the width of the nose from the
tip to
is
wing
of point 5
of nostril.
from
also
The
iris.
eyelid,
tip of
down
the eyelid
intersects E.
that
much and
with oval.
From
it
will be
The width
of the eye
is
is
As Arrow-Line
even on both
sides,
Make
cuts eyeball
times the width of the nose, and from the front of the ear to the
back of the
skull should be the same.
The
Bow
is
down
intersection of Line
that
all
H and
Nineteen
Line
lip,
(the
bottom portion
of the nose,
tips is the
down under
to
any
of chin).
Remember
Twenty
draw
at right angles,
AB. Then
a perpendicular Line
To commence your
AB
rule Line C, D, E,
of the nose
sketch in nostrils.
diagram.
fix
This will
of
on both sides
The width
of
to the
of
You
must be equal
3, 4).
F and G
shown on
The width
The
distance
Draw
your mouth.
The
The
ear
is
upper
tip of the
lip
more
Twenty-one
is
lid
lines)
in all outlines.
is
to the
is
Now
F on
Next draw
Bow
is
one-
One-half
way
>
Then
one
draw a
face.
At the end
To
that
Then measure
Top
is
of
To
it is
down draw
Neck
is
known
to be
Keep your
as a third.
When you
measure two-thirds
The drop
Measure
down on Body
this
The shoulder
it
obtain
Line.
The
Line.
you
that is nearest to
The
equal in width to one and one-third necks (or four equal thirds).
shoulder that
is
is
farthest
The depth
To
half faces
point
draw a
of
your
or Line One.
You might
slightly
is
start
Now draw
Body
At
Line.
that point
the Silhouette
The width
Body Lines
tip of
of
parallel to
and B, on
The
line
and
becomes straight
Line.
Line
mould
of the bust.
Where
of the arm-hole,
point, fix
your center
of
front.
Line
It
then
and the
To draw Line
(or Center Front Line), start at the center of your neck on the
Twenty-three
at this
of the waist
draw Lin C
and
Waist Line.
Body Line
down
End
of the
of
at the
of arm-hole to the
which are
of
end
of arm-hole (across)
to wit
measurement.
To draw
any
in
From
the arm-pit
to wrist the
same
position.
Like a pendulum.
first joint of
first
tips
extend over
To
is
obtain the proper proportions for the head, divide the top space into
AB
When
use
third,
Body
no guess
on.
Use every
proportions
Your
spaces.
(One-third
thirds,
Line
first joint.
the
work,
the
and
As Design-
throughout
first
Designs
are
Bymmetrical.
Manikins
Corsetiering
View
Face.
From
neck)
at this point
draw a
same
thirds obtained
from the
Limbs.
is
the
Top
of
draw a
and mark
it
of the
Measure
From
width
End
first
of
mark Top
of
Knee Cap.
is
From
End
the
of
mark
it
Soles of Feet.
For corsetiering measure out on Waist Line from Body Line or Line
one-half thirds.
Then measure
On
three-thirds on
Top
of the
Limbs
is
Twenty-fuur
The abdominal
remember
well to
Line
portions, hips,
Waist Line,
all
farthest
is
On the
thirds above
are
etc.,
it is
about three-
through the one and one-half thirds and then down through the three-thirds
with a corresponding hip curve to opposite side.
The limbs
down and
End
Knee Cap
of
at seven
No
rules can
Make
Body
rest directly
Small Backs
Draw Line One
vertically
is
worked up
The
face.
Width
on each
side of
Body Line
is
Width
is
down.
and draw
At
is
of
Limbs
at right angles.
this point
point
draw a
this point
End
of
draw
in faces
making
take note
The length
Draw
of the neck
is
two-thirds
At
is
Bust Line
this point
draw a
At
is
this point
draw a
The
One-half
Knee Cap
draw a
The width
Draw
is five
face,
The Top
At
or Line One).
worked up
Draw
this point.
is
in heads.
Three
of
front
At
line
this
of the waist
is
from
tip of
shoulders
down
to waist.
Thigh
one face out from Body Line or Line One each side of Top of Limbs Line.
Twenty-five
Twenty-six
Draft of Sleeve
dot
Draw
Lines
down
lYz inches
One.
your
is
6 on A, with
and
16 hole in perforation
This
foration.
is
to
Now
take your
Red
is
of draft, a
this
Number
of paper
hand corner
in left
dots.
Model measure
dot in
is 16,
Dot make B.
6
That
Dot
resting on
still
is
Put
this 2 inches at
to
the underneath part of sleeve and the rest of Line Three from Dot
draw
to
From Dot
One.
This
is
from Dot
the long
made
dot
first
this
to Line
Put point
make Dot D.
the Eyelet
indefinite length
of square unite)
Before moving this square Dot in on Line Four one and one-
From
C on Line
Dot
of Square at
arm continuing
as
if
on the inside
Now draw
Dot
to
parallel wdth
arm
C, short
this time
to
Line Five
of the
E down
lOYz
This
is
parallel
To
Square
off at
Lower
separate take a tracing wheel and lay draft on another piece of paper
and trace
off
Twentv-seven
lower Draft.
It is necessary to
jority of
is,
reduce evenly
you how
off
Divide into
Put your
Ma-
differ.
which
half,
3 inches even
is
on
both sides).
to proceed.
Sleeve Creations
Designing.
Some
in suggestion
Do
not
of
arm
loses
its
Remember
make heavy
just
Sketch an arm
design.
according to proportions,
first
The
No.
1.
an original
idea.
movement
Line Four
at
{elboiv).
Whatever measures a
upon the
third
One
your measurements of
thirds.
first
becomes
Look on both
you
is
measurements
of the sleeve
Top
will
Top
Take
to Wrist.
sides of wrist
(when an arm
on one side
sketch,
on the sketch;
measure on each
Do
side).
not expect the wrist of the sketch and block to measure the same across.
On
is
on the
The
inside.
Look
draft.
to pattern No.
whatever
inches straight up to
Back
to Back,
it
in
on a
fold.
On
inches more.
Draw
line.
Line 6
side,
you
is
to
line at four
part of draft
separated four inches, two inches for top and two inches for bottom.
sketch
we measure two
inch
is
be considered as well, so
on,
is
outside
Now
Twenty-eight
ment on bottom
two
inches.
side
two
Draw Line
straight
up
straight
line is two-thirds, so
seams
up to
top,
at the
bottom
line
to top.
of an inch
bottom and
at
sides,
you want
if
slight puff,
draft, or
3 under-
neath arm.
No.
2.
per diagram on
No.
3.
from elbow
No.
4.
left
As
to wrist.
draw
per diagram on
For
cuff
line
material spread as
No.
left
hand
side.
With
at elbow.
up
to wrist
flat
is
as possible
In problem Five
all
and
cut.
cut,
When
at
bottom
laying on your
As
5.
side.
Close-fitting sleeve.
No.
is
that dot,
hand
For example,
on pattern
it is
if it
measures
transferred to
two
Twenty-nine
/
J
p
/'
ux
-
4- -
Ai
Yoke
hand
right
down middle
side of paper;
of back.
This
square
Now
now measure
Now
amount
the
of the
Line One, and draw Line Three, across paper, parallel with Line Two.
Before moving square. Dot in your half of the width of the back
inches; also at continued measure which
inches; next
Dot Chest
Dots are
on Line Three.
all
Now
draw
On
Two
Line
draw a short
Body Line
line
downward.
or Line
to
made and
your Line
One
in
above, parallel
and
This
is
at the dot
The
first
is
make
inch and
Two
of the Sketch.
measure
These four
inches.
Dot Bust 21
19 inches; next
straight lines
is
6^
At
From
measure up
Nov/
in the
this is the
two inches
this dot
dot.
Between the
first
dot on Line
rise,
you
One and
made
this
dot you draw a Line Eight over to Line Four and measure one inch above
This point
the end.
Now
take your curve and look for that small part that says "Back of
This
Neck".
is
is
rise
this
point, one-quarter of
an inch above.
where
it
where
it
Thirty-one
says,
"Forming Rule
of
it
down and
of
just
Back" you
Put
two inches
is
Now
in
in
up to that
this
V2 on
V2
Back
of the
Neck point and draw the back shoulder seam down and through the
point that
one inch above Line Eight, on Line Four, and extend one-
is
Now
first
"
dot
the
This,
You
8%
take this
place your
left
up the end
of the tape
where
up Line Five)
at the point
it
8%
6 inches.
at the
should be
correct,
if
made
just
(the
little
line
beyond.
Now
your tape
line
and place
it
Arm-syce measurement.
Make
You
let
shoulder slant.
This
is
6 inches.
Put a Dot
it
says,
out of
on Line Seven.
on the semi-circle
Turn
"Arm Syce
made on
let
says,
it
"Front
semi-circle line.
Curve".
line for
Pick up your
at this point.
marked
to that point
To
and stop
line
much
is
be take that
that
may
curved end of form resting on Line Three, the upper portion resting on the
Now
that
we have drawn
The
front
We
and back
We
lines of
We
is
already
line in the
of
will
7
rest
draw the
on Line
Let
we
in,
In this case
it is
two
look to the two inches on the curve and put that on the Dot
Thirty-two
that
We
on Line Seven.
is
into one-half
on the
Arm
amount
divide the
is
of
6^4 inches
we
let
number
that
this
curve for
our neck.
We
curved
connect this point with the end of the Bust Point with either a
square.
Yoke Designing
One
your
of the
common and
fancies.
As you
first
In
Your law
lines.
is
one
line
my
my
is
if
have a
line square-toned I
keep to
touch of harmony.
Possibly
it
just as important
all essential.
They
are
of design.
especially.
We have three base mediums to work upon and they are Squares, Rounds
and Vs.
We
turn
now
to designing;
Become
and Pattern.
is
Pattern
is
Select
of
You
back from Bust Line to neck point (point on Line 6) for your Center Front.
is
Line Three.
In
my
Designs to you
center in
When you
in
my
examples.
far as to
Thirty-three
drop
line.
my
will note
I
have
my
in
line
Prob-
showing how
Pattern Designing
With
the thirds of the width of the neck proceed to take off your pat-
Whatever
is
draft.
Ideas.
We
on the
measure on Line
it
first
of transferring Original
is
one-third
For the
is
the Bust-Line.
width of the band that extends from the Chest-Line down, the width
down
third,
pattern.
the strip
is
is
The space
thirds
in
one
necessary to double on
The length
of
The extension
is
pattern.
up lYn
it
two inches on
is
it
strips
is
between
is
Keep the
width the same throughout, also get your exact point on Line One at chest,
which
one-third out.
is
on Chest Line.
of design
The
difference in
we have
all
points
Problem Three
is
is
seam curve
made
is
to cor-
Modeling
To Model
In
all
and neck.
Trace
In cutting
it
off
in muslin,
In Pat-
close
up around arm-hole
How
to
Take Measures
1.
2.
3.
(Middle of Back).
inches.
Thirty-four
4.
of
Width
measurement
to
Take
this half
in the back.
Then
In doing
front of arm.
arm
you pass
same
tape,
and
still
first pin.
tightly.
7.
this,
Take around
From
Back From
8.
Rise of Back
9.
Length
of
Take
this
to center of bust.
enough
first
at waist.
10.
From
Length of Front
same bone
in
Around
11.
Neck
12.
Waist
be on.
^Around
down
13.
14.
it
will
measure
tight.
Sleeve
decrees.
Note bone
inches.
Thirty-five
Be exact
in
in back of neck is
V/t
inches
fit
will be perfect.
through
*33,
then
two
..
Length
Width
Arm-Syce
of
of
Back
Continued measure
Chest
Bust
Rise of Back
Length
of
Back
Length
of
Front
Pitch of Shoulder
Neck
Waist
Sleeve
Top
Sleeve
Elbow
Skirt
to
Elbow.
to
Wrist.
m
JOAKEOUTONE
INCH
1
I
S 5
i- s
s s
s's s s
H-4-
Continued Draft
Draft Your
The
Yoke
as the
first
Dot from
this
Yoke Lesson
down on your
this point
line
down
to waist-line
Line measure
draw a
line
and look
for
2^/^
and
B and C
At
3 of
line
into Yz
inches.
Then from
up
and from
To your
to
of the
Back Line.
to the Center of
this arm-pdt
measure
right
up to arm-pit.
down
two
in
in to under C.
9 inches
draw a
you measure
Below waist
from the
line straight
Continue Block.
and draw a
is 16 inches,
is
Now
at this point
Turn
face
and
Red Curve
downward with
on 2j4'inch dot and draw Line of hip in down through the one-inch
V3
dot.
Front
Draw
The length
Point E.
is
the
down from
a line straight
Back
of the
on Line Seven.
of
your front
is
22 inches
Then measure
front
the remaining
we
place the
two inches
at
Line.
Dot
line.
line.
your measurements are correct in the back we have 6J4 inches between
the 2J^ inches in and the Yz inch in. This is Yz o^ Back Waist. Place your
If
&Ya inches, which represents the back portion of your waist, on the
Now
you divide
Make
line
and
into Y2 for
waist-line
this Y2 of
The amount
two darts
you have
that
it is
left is
Y2 o*
26^,
amount
that
is
the
inch
dividing-line,
square Y2 i"ch.
Take
first
line
J^.
Take
line
and
Dot, and draw from this dot up to Bust Dot on Line Three, and below waist
Thirty-nine
line, 9
inches down.
Y2 of the dart
and
measure on Line Three toward your front from dividing point or Arm-Pit.
in
points.
from your
V^ inch
Yz dart at arm-pit.
on waist
dart to dispose
are
line in front,
line
you measure
this dart
and
of,
line.-
in halves
it
Points
The technique
Line.
line.
is
it is
as
if
9 inches.
Our Center
place
It is
not exactly
pull this
is
name
Your
It
top or bottom, and you have side lines which also have to be considered.
Every
is
stance, in
Problem One.
square as
it
of
my
Bib
if
you introduce
You
it
into
in
your
So when
tie over.
lines.
It is also
line,
Line
is
you can
your designing.
Do
Emphasize harmony
is
of material.
For
in-
open portion
is
my
inside opening
all
neck
is
The
used (Bateau).
This
is
the
first
In Problem Two,
strips
we
is
by added
it
have
The upper
of the cut correspond with the outer edge of the Bib Lines.
carried longer
inside lines
The
lines are
down
We
between
are using a
Forty
plain material.
and
it
will
unvarying straight
lines.
You have
in this
fect,
Now we
can note,
have taken
As
form pockets.
two
end of the
and spread
line
it
at the
Near Waist-Line
bottom
it
to
into
it
You
it.
the belt.
that
is
my
ef-
tie.
if
and drape
lines
can con-
lines
of
Limbs
line,
going be-
You may
Line.
say
extreme.
Pattern Designing
Problem One.
diagram.
half of a dart in
on the
is
is
down
You
we
will
line,
which
is
Our
of
Back.
Length
of Bib
is J/j
of a third.
is
thirds.
Transferred on
One
or
Body Line
or Bust Line.
your shoulder
line
and take
your strap
same
one-third.
The width
draft.
is
of
on the
also pinch in
Later
neck
The
necessary to take an
or draft.
is
it
neck) on Illustration
Line
length
neck
outward, but
full
line
it off
in front.
to
it
in
Forty-one
Problem No.
of the
The
One.
The curve
2.
Line.
making a
slip tie is
slip tie
The end
of the
opening
It
isi
one
makes
six inches.
^, and then
Back
sprung,
is
it
is
is
14 again
on each side
the same.
Draw
lines
of that dot.
Then
in
Waist-Lines, open and insert spring, spreading one inch at bottom tapermg
up
to nothing.
Problem No.
The
3.
top.
is
The
Then
effect
belt is also
9 inches below.
line for
done likewise.
The drop
of the
The
For any panels or vestees that hang from the shoulder or near
Spring
shoulder, get yoiu: position and then drop or continue downward.
to end.
When
full-
added by springing slight puckering comes into the pattern, but just
that
press out or flatten and cut straight. This does not come on the part
you add fullness. Straighten your shoulder seam.
ness
is
For
collar
measure around neck take straight piece and cut to that length,
way down.
At the end
Forty-two
m Af^DJI
ONE DARTED LINING
A TWO DAKTED
LINING
OARTLESS LINING
"^
PBlMCESS LINING
Forty- four
Two Darted
we
First of all
The
size.
thing to do
first
Work upon
is
Number One
Lining,
amount
You may
your darts.
of
in
amount
and
y/^
of the darts
of
change according
to size.
in
draw
up
to dots
to tip of dart
and draw
line
draw down
which
draw down
down from
to that point.
drawn
is
half-inch in (Face
Which
line
first
up on
For
sides of
put face
left side
first
Then measure
in
from
one dart
this end,
inch in
to the
is
For the
last dot of
on Bust Line.
directly
draw hip
the waist
to that point.
The amounts
on Bust-Line.
5 face
measure
use any
Below
3
on the
Use
line,
line.
the back.
French Bias.
From
draw up
point
Number Two
dot,
drawn down
down
Normal Waist-Lin
draw up
Forty-five
Use
Normal Waist-
line over
one
dart, dot,
then take
the
Number Three
(5/2).
then
under that below Tight or Normal Waist Line dot nine inches (9) down.
Place on each side of dot on Tight or Normal Waist-Line one-half of a dart
and
For the
dot.
to dot
sides of
on Bust-Line.
For the
of
The second
point.
dart
in
the 9-inch
in
and
dot,
measure
to
is
your
measurement below.
line
For sides
5 of
put (V 5) face
left side
or
draw the
one dart from the end of the back hip line and then from dot
draw
to your dot.
down
3 of
Use
the back.
Number Four
Dartless Lining.
Measure
Then
dot.
Normal Waist-
Line point under the arm and dot, and from that point draw up to the
on waist
lining
on
to the Yz
line
line of the
remaining
two small
dart.
side darts
placing
two
darts)
is
for back.
Number Five
(top of your
make
When
front.
Princess Lining.
Waist-Line,
3 of
on Bust-Line
figure, take
di-
two dots
Forty-six
make another
dot.
It is also permissable to
Divide your
Now
Red Curve (V
take your
up and
face
5)
5) face
Line and draw in your right side of dart up to the dot above Bust-Line.
Face down on
draw down
straight
in
or
two
left side
down
The
parts.
dot.
from
in
to under the
Below the waist measure over one dart from the end
arm.
Take
9 inches down.
of the
back
is
3 of
intersecting
Normal
ing the curve of your hip extending nine inches from the Tight or
Make
Put
Back.
face
of
is
dot.
Then on each
Seam
inch, dot.
which
side
measure out
one-half.
into
Now
directly vmder
Waist-Line.
of an
(V
take
5)
left side
(V
5) face
Dot down
up
9 inches
Take
of
this point.
dart points on Princess Waist-Line to the opposite sides of these and then
straight
down.
the overlapping
From
You
will
by tracing
line
Forty-seven
Make
overlap,
sides
down touching
perfectly
Darted Linings and One Darted Lining with Flat Felled Seams.
After your Linings have been cut out, having allowed Yz inch for seams
join
To sew
lace
Then
side
and hem.
flat
around arm holes and neck, pin lace on right side of material
wrong
Turn
and then
Then turn
flat.
of
an
side,
inch.
hem
roll at
from edge
at
same
line,
pin lace
same time:
To sew
on right
lace
around neck
side Y i
roll
a" inch
material
time.
of
finished
seam
J4 of
an
side,
inch.
Forty-eight
Fifty
Silhouette Line
is
of Style.
In designing
the
same
Under
taste.
professional
is
it
the
first
below normal.
Silhouette
line.
This
to
ideas of adornment.
The
a waist-line that
straight
is
would be as straight as
lines
know your
first to
new
seam
Model
of a
line
The
pleases those
is
Keep your
possible.
lines simple
to cover over
is
and do
effect in line).
The Chemise
after Season.
is
above
my
relief
and
hem
still
good frame
This
Normal.
is
placed at
have kept
my
far
line for
I select
a bold design
such a design).
my Body
Line
Just a httle
relieve the
Model by
it
Chemise-Waist-Line which
one.
hang.
is
extending to the
For a
or Straight Line
my
have obtained
in Silhouette
it
to
to keep a
good straight
This keep-
subject.
Chemise Blocks
Take Block
from the neck
(the plain
Fifty-one
which
is
of a dart in.
back
inch,
and
from that point draw down to the Dot two inches out from Chemise Waist
From
draw
straight
down
to
Normal Waist-Line.
Back.
Two
Do
under the arm in the Back, but from your arm hole draw down through this
Two
inch Dot to a point seven inches from Normal Waist Line and then
straight to the
To
put in fullness
it is
Common
hem
and
line straight
Cut a
scissors.
strip
is
Back
it
and
dot,
and apply
generally
Draw
how much
It is
so that
to Chest
it
at the
or you
may
will spread
You may
lay your draft upon another piece of paper and open these springs
one inch at the bottom, pin down and then cut out fresh block.
Experienced Designers have the Straight Line Blocks made up
in a
Sometimes the
fullness
comes
in the skirt
then you can divide the Chemise Block at the Chemise Waist Line.
you divide
into one-half
If fullness
at the sides.
comes
You may
This
if
flat in
in the
by dividing
into one-half.
Modeling.
To
get a straight line neck, take one inch off of the Center Front and
in
in the
Fitfy-two
The change
that
is
made
in the
arm one
the
to the
Back Block
is
Add one
more
to
inch
line,
arm
as in the
front.
Take
flat
down on your
down and
from any
line just
Leave
it
take length
it.
half inch
seam when
or three-quarter inch
cutting.
Take
off
piece of paper with your thirds properly fixed and proceed to take
Model.
If it is a third
on the Sketch
line of
is
one-third
2^
inches.
but as
thirds,
The panel
to.
or
Body
is
line.
The Back
is
this
by trimming.
2%
One
it
nearest
is
Put your panel straight and evenly placed on Line One or Body
which
is
importance that
it
or
line
between
Front.
It
is
In the Back
how
made from
the
and underarm
to-
is
regulation Block.
To make
Fifty-three
for length,
'S5
SEMI-FIT BLOCK
Fifty-four
more expression
little
of a Silhouette Line.
It is
is
New
Ideas.
It
The importance
an object
of
of materials; therefore
is
much
human
Line
Remember
that
as possible.
The
object
to
is
to
meet the
is
scientific study.
You want
is
half
is
Waist Line.
In the Problem
line,
my
making
lines
harmonious.
of lines in
lines to bring in
No
line.
matter
new
In the construction of
two
ideas,
how you
Use the
materials.
always remember-
line in panels.
is first.
Semi-Fit Blocks
Take your
plain working Block and turn your front back from the neck
which
paper or material.
of a dart in.
is J/^
Measure out
at
Dot.
down
to the dot
From
the dot
inches.
draw
down
that point
IJ/^
line
a line
At seven
measure
straight, 30 inches
Measure out
1^
Fifty-five
point.
From
From
down
draw down
Draw
down
Center Back
to that point,
3'0
this point
straight.
Fullness
In the case of Fullness, divide the
Draw
hem
again.
and then
straight lines
line into Yz
Do
Draft.
not get a
dowdy
On
your sketch
you must place the same properly and then measure from your important
nearest
line.
You may
In the case of fullness your Design will show the number and amount of
springs.
Modeling
Take your regular Semi-Fit Block and place on the
Be
sure that
Body
all
of
One
such as Line
Line, Chest Line, Bust Line and your Semi-Fit Waist Line.
1%
in,
Use the
Front.
It is
nearer Line
Your
on Center
thirds taken
inches.
One
or
it
Body Line
or
it
is
is
It is
Seam
gauged by getting
it
half
way on
You
position.
or
the pattern.
over ends you always measure the amount which in the sketch
Add
underneath portion.
The Black
In this
case making
all
drafted in one.
hem
is
one-third.
all,
for the
or three inches.
in thirds,
and transfer
in inches.
Fashion
Back
of sketch is transferred in
same manner
as
shown on
pattern.
Fifty-six
two-thirds, or
cuff, first
that
it is
add an inch as
from elbow.
10^
spring
in a piece of
Fifty-seven
is
now make
flare
we
side.
it
four
inches,
it
is
two
In this case
For the
know
in the
it is
ly^ inches
flare
First
add an inch
Draw
in the
Fifty-c'uiht
Kimona
Creation of
The
Specialists in the
hit or
Every
Kimona
line
Whatever
miss treatment.
joined
Sleeve Models
For instance,
brought
in
of the
must
in the use of a
by designing a
Kimona
Sleeve,
set in sleeve.
is
set in sleeves.
Your
I
The
cuts.
of space to
line of
triple idea
work
avoided congestion.
in.
me
breadth
will gradually
Art.
yoke
inset, cuts as in
may
either
line in perfect
new neck
line
lines
with the
harmony.
Pattern Making
First take a piece of pattern paper or tissue paper and place
draw
Redraw
Between
a straight line
it
in
on the
front.
is
Placing points A,
B and C on
Line
down
to
This
is
your underarm
seam.
Back and
of the Block.
Three.
may
in
Bust Line
from the Chest Line on underarm seam and then draw the width
parallel
To
Sleeve.
It will
is
my
sleeve
no rule governing
get the length of your sleeve you measure from neck across shoulder
down
arm
Kimono
There
of
to
side
Fifty-nine
to wrist.
Now
the back.
turn your
Neck point
of the
can be used in
to.
Cut
line.
it
off at
Front.
is
same
Trace or draw on
all
important
You may
C.
at
turned
such as
lines,
B and
in.
is
Silhouette Line,
you use
between
down through
Then draw
straight to
beyond
Do
the
To add your
Then
and C.
arm down
the
Make
Do
Waist Line
Normal Waist
to
Line.
the
It is
hem
the
inch.
all
specially designed.
On
the bottom line divide into one-half and dot, then on each side into
one-half,
making three
Chest Line.
springs.
The Springs
point.
There
is
a difference in necks.
We
is
Then
your underarm
It is
line
now
down
off
half
is
more
difficult.
to
is
take out a
Sixl's
is
smaller now.
Take from the neck and add your inch under the arm.
Problem
Three for Round and Square Necks and Number Four for Straight Neck
diagram.
Modeling
Lay
off
first
your design.
It is
Model
first in
In transferring your design from Sketch to pattern you measure from your
main
lines,
when
to
transferred to pattern.
Sixty-one
Remember
The
The
thirds in the
This
Wear. The
which
principal of
is
pendulum
its
an
and
idea, the
is of
relative
is
It is
the Scarf idea and drafting onto the same a pocket, a newer idea.
it
to
desires.
turn
motion of
Feminine
a multiplied effect of
a two-piece suit
line, in
effect
easiness of line
now
fitting in
too extreme.
The
it
Skirt
on.
is
We
executed by
Just face
it,
Pattern Designing
Coat Block Take your Pattern Block and lay
:
rial
it
about one inch or so in from the edge of your material (Center Front).
From under
the
at the Straight
we draw
Back
Two
down
a line
it is
a Coat.
We
may
of these springs
You do
inches.
not add the inch out under the arm, but you measure out
at the
From under
the
You
also
a line
down through
the
two
inches at the Loose Waist Line, and extend nine inches below the Tight
Waist Line.
making three
all for
Sleeve:
in that
To
amount
Slxiy-three
You
springs.
You
the Back.
draft a large sleeve
in the perforation
on that part
of the
Red Curve
that
is
pre-
same
If
slant
just continue
until
on
All
The width
Front.
of the sleeve
Take your
Skirt:
straight to
or
hem
3 of
one inch out point of the Waist Line and draw your Waist
front.
on each side
To add
of skirt,
at the
it
and put
Be sure
optional.
is
in
bottom
Draw from
of this point.
Cut
the line open and insert a piece of paper spreading one inch at bottom and
tapering up to nothing.
Back
rial.
Then measure up
^ of an inch.
Back
in Center
Line at the hip measure out one inch, seven inches down from the hip
From
inch.
down
to
hem.
the Tight or
of
the
Make
of
to that
your Red Curve and place on the Center Back and draw down the curve
three springs in
In making a
wish on the
first
at the bottom.
If
lines
one inch
full skirt
as
up
at the
to
on each
side,
making
insert a piece
to nothing.
springing,
Add
you want
more springs
Draw
all.
of paper spreading
3/^
line
many
peg top
you
desire.
to the bottom,
you
springs as
skirt
at the top
if
if
making your
you wish a
side
seam
flare at the
bottom add
Spring
length up or down.
It is well to
know now
that
Sixty- four
it
You have
to the sides.
to
It is
it.
done
Use springs
in.
in the
Pattern only.
In the case of gores, put front and back together; take and divide the
amount
of gores
inches,
will cross
From
draw
down
nine
Make
as
many
gores as desired
Modeling
Take your regular Coat Block,
from Line One or Body Line.
on the edge
it
Use
out.
of
Lay
on top
directly
It is
straight shoulder as
it is
at that point
it
if
preferred.
one inch
of shoulder, take
off
shoulder seam and add one inch up to Back Block, drawing straight shoulder
seam.
Sleeve.
In case of drafting for the Scarf take your regular plain Block, with
This Scarf
falls straight
on each
etc.,
making the
full
Body
or
Line One.
of
when
are doubled so
all
Line.
advised,
it is
two inches
It is
two inches
below the edge of the coat and eleven inches from Tight or Normal Waist
In measuring for the pocket,
Line.
have
to
rises
a half inches
We
it
is
We
is
It
extends three
The
eight inches.
outside
The edge
effect.
is
five inches.
In
of the scarf
is
inside.
fringed.
In drafting a Collar of this design, you take your pattern and measure
Draw
inches.
Sixty-five
the
Back
From
of the
that dot
Divide
Neck
draw
neck
will
is,
it
into oneIf it is
Measure up
lJ/$
The
measure taken
straight
up
five inches
draw up
is
Line
to those points.
Neck
is.
is five
From
Then from
at the
side.
1%
inches
line
Draw
inches on draft.
directly through.
Making
six
on the Sketch.
cuff
Make your
Make
cuff
cuff double
it
Draw
measures one-
Round
comers.
line
scarf.
Sixty-six
^\
is
way
of designing, in
of
The same
Silhouette Line
is
We
find that
cut or strip your side lines, but hold to fine line balance.
of this
ings, so
Up
sides of
side.
In this
in sensible balance.
odd numbers
The
good example
In
not
is
sufficient
case
Do
it is
An
alluring effect
is
is
line.
We
we must assemble
In Bodice Design
There
is
no other formation
of line so acceptable as
These formation
It all
similar
line
and
its
lines
first
proper
formation.
The
lines of the
Bodice or the top part are upon the Semi-Fit Lines, extend-
and upon a
have
taken the straight of the material with ample extensions on both sides to
make
cascades.
These
At the bottom
This
front
is
length.
draped.
The
The width
is
train
is
is
the simple
way
in
which the
sufficient to rest
Sixty-nine
In the center
it
is
split
down
then
falls
you
to
upon the
still
mass.
floor in a solid
It
line.
Modeling
Take your regular Drafting Block (any
upon the
fold of
You always
your material.
by
side
seam
lines.
size that
1^
you
first.
Your
and place
prefer)
is
inch.
Connect these
Bust Line, passing Chest Line one inch beyond Line One, and the width of
the shoulder strap
Lay
inches lower.
waist front
is
Front.
in the neck
and arm
The
line curves.
Use your
seam throughout.
it is
two
lines as per
The back
seam
ends.
The^
sides.
and allow
fall of
cut
is
at least a 12-inch
the cascades.
Place
it
side
tip.
J^ or a 54-inch
Back:
is
at least a three-quarter or
to be faced back.
In getting
the width of the panel and train, measure across your Semi-Fit Bodice back
on the bottom
line
and make
line
two
sides.
Your foundation
line.
it
an inch
of the side
seam
lining is the
Cut out neck and under the arms the same as outer bodice, but make shoulder
strap one inch in width.
The
Bodice.
Make
cut on the
same
lines as the
Back
The
is
is
The opening
is
in the back.
Seventy
The
skirt is a regular
peg top
skirt, that is
times from the bottom up, and four times from the top down.
Each
three-
Make
is
The Gown
Seventy-one
is
trimmed with
pearls.
The
Skirt
is
of
The
decollete
White Salome
Seventy-tzvo
same Model
is
produced by different
The treatment
differ in
Model must be
of such a
it
accurate.
we have made no
a difference,
Work now
Psychology
create
Naturally
if
sides, still
do not
two frocks
in one.
You must
we
expressing
still
falsity of Line.
and
If
of Line.
them
opposite sides
If the
The theory
lines.
is
to apply simply
and
scientifically.
mind
that
your judgment independent in treatment must bring your single object out
in
wrong
lines
here.
am
calling
Body
is
continue
boldly
the cascades.
waist.
Model
down between
silhouette.
part of the
shown
side
We
is
(Kimona;
and newness.
at the waistline
The
sleeve
and then
finished with
is
side
of the
The
On
\v\\\
loosely below the waistline, and slightly tacked to the end of the cascade
Modeliitg
Take
a regular
Sevent^'-three
inch.
one inch
in a
This
(unsl'ruiig).
To
a regulation method.
Now
see that
all
Your
drawing your
sleeve formation
line,
to the
hem
comes
The width
four inches.
This
of the dress.
you
four-thirds
is
The
strip
You
lar
is
your sleeve
of
You
top or sleeve
is
Instead of
first.
line
transferred
off of
will
regu-
Block by separating into one-half between the Center Front Line and your
Side
Seam
Line, Dot, and then into one-half on each side of this dot.
straight lines
up
to Chest Line,
The neck
Body Line
or
Draw
it
is
Body Line
One
or
1^
thirds.
off
or Line
Body
t^en
Line.
of a third
These
as
One
Half
and
all trans-
Back: The plans of your Back are worked out in the same rules as
Do
with matching the shoulder tips or Kimona Sleeve tips and taking your inch
the top of your neck, add your inch imder the arm.
off at
and side
This imderslip
is
lines the
made
same as the
front.
of crepe.
of paneled effect is
remember your
silhouettes,
by placing
cut will
is
5 of
etc.
For
Now,
slightly curved.
You
your Red Curve and running that curve up from the Waist
your Right
fall softly
Side.
into a cascade.
projection,
which when
up 1J4 thirds above the extension of the Chemise Waist Line. From
point draw directly up to the tip of the shoulder, marked Two (Left Hand
point
this
This
Line.
is
is
Side).
The
rest of
your Block
is
Seventy-four
line,
as
much
cascade.
your cascade in
of
This one
thirds.
measures seven-thirds.
length
as
it is
to the
draw down
now draw up
hem
to the
of
and
end
your
of
to the corner.
of this line
line
Drop down on
line.
This line
is
this
of the cascade
you
you divide
divide
into
one
insert a
one
inch spring, spreading one inch at the bottom and tapering up to nothing.
In
into one-half
half
and
dot.
and
dot,
Draw
lines
of this dot
Open and
cutting this spread out the line where the springs are and any puckering in
above
The
lines press
if it
Girdle of Roses.
Seventy-five
were not
is
to be
a tight dart.
Cut the
there.
made
of Velvet with
a Fashioned
Seventy-six
Line of Suggestion
Often another Idea
created by Suggestion.
is
It is
the experiment of
bringing onto our Models the outlines from some other direct object.
They
ideas
easily pass
will
are pre-
their origin.
It is
These conceived
of ideas.
Lamp
Do
not carry
a too exact reproduction but just the idea to a certain extent (a similarity of
line).
will gradually
Be
The Laws
form
lines
able to place
with
same
in
of Association
Lines of suggestion are produced by looking for Ideas in the simple forms
of association
Form your
to another
lines.
gentle expres-
Modeling
Take one inch
is
point
draw down
third up.
to
The width
of the neck.
your waist
3/^
The Back
line.
of a third.
is
The
From
inch.
Then draw
is
this
of a
Put the
tips of
shoulder together, so the inch will come out at the top of the neck.
your
In curv-
ing both back and front get the curve of the arm hole and then straight down.
For the bodice (underneath) use the same Block, only take the remainder
of the Yi dart off of the front.
You remember
Seventy-seven
Now
that
you took
ot a dart in
in.
Use
Peplum
of
Take the
your Block.
front and divide into Yz, dot, and then one-half on each side of this dot,
three springs.
Open and
same spread
Do
the
making
at the bottom.
front.
Then
Gather onto a
Hang
lace
this.
skirt underneath.
It is
regular Skirt Block that has been sprung three times, and on the waist line
divide into one-half and dot, then take and divide into one-half on each side,
draw
lines
down
top tapering
54 t^^ length and open and spring, inserting one inch at the
down
The Model
is
to nothing.
made
In
of Black
like
(Silver).
Seventy-eight
Eighty
Theme
An
established fact
Theme
that the
is
of Line
An
in this case
is
of Line is
it is
Line
of
Knowledge
of Line or
an old
of
New
idea.
The
modern
Day
It is the evolution of
state.
some Country.
Influence from
Should your Inspirations come from Periods modernize the line but
enlighten the Model with the
Gown, Bouffant
in
Line
make your
same atmosphere.
Spanish
lines
still
Adjust your
relative
Individuality.
It is
exaggerated.
The
Some
ity.
modern bodice or
Trend
is
of this
is
Season
upon the
interpreta-
adapted by a Majoris
Trends.
Modeling
Take your regular Two-Darted Lining Block and convert
Kimona
is
made
Sleeve Block.
This
Refer to your
up.
is
it
into
Kimona Group.
is
made with
Two-Darts.
To make
Take one
inch off of the neck and lay this on the fold of your material or paper, pinch
arm
(this is
dart, dot,
in center of Shoulder
Measure
two darts
is
in
This
as follows
that
To
Eighty-one
one
this side
dart.
seam one
To have one
Square
off directly
below
Take one-half
is
On
from
of
5 face
up
and draw
your
in
straight neck
The Back
your
in
left side of
For your
in front
is
made up
draw
to
the shoulders.
is
down
5 face
The
dart.
Lay
Kimona
Block.
Match up
off at the
It
all
pre-
Back
of
Kimona Block
as
tracing through Line Six to obtain the position for Center Back, etc.
Skirt
slant as the
side
Waist Line
of
your
seam
skirt.
of
your
Divide your added portion into one-half, dot, then into one-half on
each side of that and dot, then in between each one of these points divide into
Now
one-half, dot.
On
springs.
half
and
to
to the
you can
new
bottom part
up
To
just
is
between one-half
^ the length.
line,
This makes
tapering to nothing.
of
paper and
made by
six
The
Waist Line.
is
is
the only rule that properly and evenly balances a Bouffant Skirt.
same as Front.
drafted the
is
is
you
will
draped in
lace.
Take
fullness.
is
Now make
away
this piece
the
Cut the lace out with the proper extenLines across diagrams show
how
por-
cut away.
a wire extension for your sides to be held in place.
This makes
skirt.
Be
pattern.
Y^ the length of
lines
of the skirt
The Back
This
down
six springs.
cut out a
on each
Now draw
you care
lines
your regular
dot, then
again, dot.
If
draw
it
will
open
fix
in the back.
so that
it
will
Take a
Put a piece
of
Eighty-two
Take a piece
Take three
For your
lining of this
The
These extensions
pieces of
For the
skirt
Brocaded
Satin,
slightly tapers
floor of five
in to the
is
of Silver
yards in length.
It
on
sides.
It is slightly
It is
is
harnessed on by
silk ribbon.
Take and run it over
the shoulders and across in front (from opposite sides),
connecting on piece
around waist.
Come
securely tack.
Bodice.
straight
down from
tied
this,
of
The
Bridal Veil
is
made
of Bridal Net.
Eighty-three
With Coronet
of Medallion of
Eighty-four
Discovery of Line
Models when they have characteristic
of the
The
ance.
The Discovery
Line
of
is
of practical import-
Ornamentation
modern
ability suggests
discovery.
"Up
lines
It
The
to Date Different".
It is
wearing
to the actual
into a Chic
it
Model
iot
Milady.
In your designing you must be able to discriminate and limit your line
Do
conditions.
that of another.
Make
it
lines.
The suggestion
no exactness.
through
line
tion of the
idea.
in this
of
of lines
a specific Period.
Laws
problem comes
in general lines,
but
is
a valuable determina-
Other unrelated
lines
may
be
brought into the Design for example a Surplice Front, High Collar and large
;
Kimona
Sleeves.
The
fullness of line
strictly
Modeling
Take
a regular
Cut
straight across at
the Chemise Waist Line separating the Blouse and the Skirt parts of the
Block.
Take
up to Chest Line.
Making
three springs.
Eighty-five
Draw
Take the
Skirt portion
down
and spring
and then on
Be
sure that your Important Lines are put on the pattern, such as Line
it is
Turn your
first.
1% inches
pattern. On Bust
of
within
side
of the Surplus
we
it is
is
The
still
on
Line One.
of
But
left side of
is
nearer your
On
Chest Line
This
it
line
continues
paper that
is
it
out,
Sleeve
is
made
To
as this
Take
is
up
The end
this line
This
must be drafted
and fold
we
double, as
Take
etc.
draw
to elbow.
straight line
up from your
shoulder seam 5 inches, in center front draw straight line 5 inches up, add
Then
side.
slightly curve
neck
to the
Divide
line.
on the top Une and add one inch spring, spreading one inch
and tapering
it
at top
to nothing at end.
Of
down
is
Surplice.
The
Surplice of Skirt
is
The Back
is
drafted in the
taper
rial
as
shown
At
to
it
Seam up
inches over
hem
oi
drafted on
Seam
It is IJ^
same manner.
drafted in
1%
side.
by draw-
one inch.
Draw
in diagram.
Seam from
is
You
point of shoulder.
by measuring up one
Draw
a line
down
parallel
Eighty-six
Shoulder to the Waist Line (on Pattern) and add that from shoulder for
This Scarf hangs loosely from the end of the Surplice Line,
length of Scarf.
down
the Model.
hem with
the
same width
as the Scarf.
down
the Model.
In putting this Model together at Waist Line use a heavy cording of the
material.
The Model
is
The embroidery,
The
made
is
of dark red
Cut length
Kasa Cloth.
of material
made
thread.
Place
Cording:
of
of the
Eighty-seven
Waist Line:
Sew
at each edge
and draw
elastic through.
S s s s s
s s
lOTI^AES
Eighty-eight
Influence
Sensation of Line
By Mutual
Relation
power
it
and
in points
this extensively.
Sensation of Line
The shape
Problem shown
of the
is
Through the
else.
to use
is
to receive
on a Model.
it
We apply
only
outlines of objects.
Perceive things that have quality of Line then your structural ideas will
express them in design. Your rights of judgment must be fixed and defined,
it is
Remember
simplicity.
French Basket.
lines of the
still
Through
must predominate.
object
Modeling
Take your regular working Block.
Lay on
Remember what
Waist Line.
It is
projecting point
we must measure
we
third
Normal
To
get the
will draft,
Cut
2.
You
is
lines,
then
line,
Waist Line, then two inches up from the original seam you add another
spring.
nothing.
tie
point, spreading
Measure up one-half
of
shoulder strap.
length to
making
Bodice.
tie
over
The Front
One.
This
is
four.
Curve your
This
is
down
down
on the fold
Make
the
We
cut open
thei
center
spring straight to the waist line and insert a one-inch spring, spreading one
Eighty-nine
Two
we
spring,
The Back
The Bodice
in
on waist
line
and
in front.
some manner.
or underneath effect
Block.
half
done
is
is
dot, then
into hcdf
one inch.
The Back
is
The
fullness is
The
Skirt
drawn
very
is
elastic.
full
on an
in
You
skirt given.
is
thai;
has been sprung three times from the bottom up, as original skirt blocks
You
Line.
divide your
you
into one-half.
after this
Chemise Waist
on each
Eight times in
and back), as
you divide
(front
all.
You draw
are.
of these points
lines
from each
one of these marks down 3^ the length. Open and spread one inch at top,
tapering to nothing at the end.
The bottom
of skirt is
You
on each side of
and
this point
In between divide again and from each one of these points you draw a
straight line
at the
up
The Back
is
After
the springing
is
panels
when
18 inches
transferred.
we
three French
the panel.
The
loop
is
Bows
Lengths of
of
effect is of Blue.
the material
is
the amount.
same by measuring
Nine thirds doubled
made by
material of this
Then double
The
off
In taking
Basket
all
all skirts
is
You
Model
is
French coloring
The
The
interlining of the
may
be used.
Ninety
FOLDED CASCADE
CONNrCTS ON BO\M
Ninety-two
Individuality of Line
The importance
It
Lines
characteristic
Youthful
They
Youth.
to
Wearer.
are
modern
fancies.
like the
wings
ness of
lines.
Through
girl in all
and
and beautiful-
in softness
artistic
lines
touchps in grace of
line.
Ribbons), Garlands, and Fluffy, Lacy effects (such as RufHes and Flouncings)
are representations that
may
Almost
The
Skirt
is
is
cascaded
effect.
same.
Modeling
We
is all
known
as
cut in one.
Block, and place on the fold of your material or paper, this must be folded
side
line
The dotted
curving
it
instead of pointing.
Turn
line
Ninety-three
You
will notice
it is
one-
Draw your
line
marked One
will first
seam
Now
dot,
We
drafted.
is
from your
and add
six
This
is
more inches
left off
to
and continue
you on diagram.
This
line
marked
bow on
As
left side.
the back
From under
the
is
a continued surplice,
down
arm we draw,
inches.
you measure up
Then draw
to the Semi-Fit
as heavy line
in the back,
drop
to four inches
will guide
connect the back block to the side seam of the front block.
marked Three
Two
line as
surplice
you
block back portion the other half portion and directly to the center front.
Measure
for the
bow which
is
on the extension
down
you
bow
is
bow
ten inches.
is
of the surplice
you measure up
Open and
spring the
bow from
To make
the top.
a folded cascade
fold the material or paper three times, to the exact length about 36 inches
Measure down
length and then directly opposite that point on the fold side mark.
point measure
measure
9.
down
half the
From
that
Directly
opposite the 9-inch point on the opposite side mark, then measure 9 inches
down.
down
Then
Mark
Add
this
Circular Skirt
Take your regular
top.
the same.
When
they have been sprung, you put your hips together and
let
the
One
it
is
Ninety-four
the
left
After you
have cut your French Bias Lining lay your Front and Back
together and
draft
it
off of the
The
same
block.
and swathing
georgette.
is
wine shade
bow
of crepe
The bow on
the interior
is
It is also
wired
out.
The
underslip, or lining,
is
made
Back Seam
First pin side
seam
of skirt together.
Then
of the material.
and sew.
Ninety-five
Ninety-six
Character of Line
Character of the Wearer can be personified through Line.
Not alone
the Personal Character, but any character on the Stage can be represented
and through
we have
lines
the co-operation
of Arts, the
Sometimes the
popular.
is
good character
of line
is
The World
must cope with
many
Players.
will suit
and upon
a Stage
is
this idea
kinds of characters.
It
Character of Line
are
it
The Designer
many
Modem
a Tragedienne.
full of active
motives.
We would
We prevail
Skirt
is
is
lines, like
Type
active
lines.
and
The Seamless
The
designed on circular
we
Plays.
would
different
in this
Design
Modeling
Take your Regular Block and place your regu-
Semi-Princess Block:
lation
Two
Half
way between
below
off directly
this dot
the
two dots on
on Semi-Fit Waist
Line, and square off seven inches below this dot (Square off
means dot
straight below).
Red Curve (V
draw down
5)
of dot on Semi-Fit
up draw
to dot
on Bust Line.
(V
5) face
of dart,
down
Measure
in one dart
this dot
of
Ninety-seven
From
Fit
side
down draw
Measure on each
in the
on dot on Semi-
From your
From
Waist Line.
On
up
down seven
of the hip
On
into one-half.
draw
in point
Take your
seam
place
in point
in one-half of
3 on dot and
line
measure
in
5 of
one-quarter out point and draw the curve of your dart up to the division
Make
same
Square and dot seven inches below your dart and measure out on
curve.
Draw from
down
different sections.
Two
(tightly).
Pin down
paper.
Round
is
Center Back.
From
and Front
cess Block.
neck.
It is
to the Silhouette
cut the
is
Make
Bow
Knot about
Cut
up on
Knot or
a regular
Kimona.
of the
dart tightly
As you do
under
on your material or
flatly
seam four
side
inches,
dot.
8 inches wide.
Make
sash that
ties
until
up
it
for the
fits
French
onto end of
3 inch strip.
of an extension of 6 inches
from Back.
or sash and
fill
it
on the
strip.
in cut
floor.
v\rith
the
You may
Ninety-eight
Semi-Circular Skirt
Take your regular Semi-Fit Sprung Block.
to the Semi-Fit
bottom up
To
Waist Line.
may
just
open and pin down onto another piece of paper, spreading one
Back
Or you
is
new
Block.
as the front.
Frill:
Draw Line
inches down.
draw
Cut
At the
down
it
Studio Model
of
draw
is
made up
it
back.
of
to line
frill off
frill is
as
(Top
it
of Skirt Line).
sets better
by cutting
Ninety-nine
down
Back
seven
line
this
is
in double cording of
riri
One hundred
Name
Lines in
Kimona
Butterfly
Name Only
Lines in
We
design.
lines of
There are
Butterfly origin.
all
modern improvements,
silk
In
The flowing
and
Only
probability the
all
Butterfly because
its
name
of this silhouette
In this Model
in flight.
it
is
only
The Designer
namesake.
all
its
These Lines
Name Only
in
often
narrow
we have
light boat".
The neck
line is long
and
Kimona
instances,
beautiful
become
In other
in definition
"Long
still
Modeling
Use your Regular Drop Shoulder Night Gown Block.
making same (Back and Front) you
grams.
Do
The Rules
for
Take your Regular Drop Shoulder Night Gown Block and place on the
fold of the material or paper.
The length
of the sleeve
The
20 inches).
shoulder dot.
point under the
and waist
of width.
arm
to
Waist Line.
From
line
24
Gown
down
to dot.
Curve from
this
seam
Open
is
below, dot.
off of
obtained by meas-
is
Draw
in to
about half
The
fold panel
One and
center of shoulder.
folds back, so
is
side.
on the
By drawing
Two
side.
The Sleeve
is
The width
is
Cut same
insert
The Medallions
that is
drawn
For
in thirds
of the streamers
when
is
doubled
transferred
on Chest
Width
for
times.
off at the
connected on the
open and
The Measurements
Length 30
Skirt portion
Open and
from shoulder.
to fold edge.
doubled.
Each
proportioned as follows:
transferred in inches.
The panel
line of
The
is
measures 2/3
fix its
Seam with
when
it
shoulder.
Side
From Sketch
is
slip
which
is
a Regular Straight
The arm-hole
is
made about
l^^
Make bottom
Put back
of
to-
The Model
is
of the Butterfly
of the
made
Chemise
of Satin
Kimona executed
Slip
the same.
of Silk Lace.
Silver Cloth.
Raglan Sleeves
Artisans of Combining Blocks or Patterns are those skilled in putting
together the Mechanical Blocks for the different
Sleeve
is
Art in designing.
The Kimona
It
Its parts
make another
portion so arranged to
Designs.
block.
Fullness
the
Body
of the Coat
is
are constructed.
Modeling
Use your Regular Kimona Block (Unsprung).
Same
Draw
flat.
arm seam
Wrist
to
elbow
line is the
same.
the neck line toward the center front measure V/i inches toward center
back
Draw
inch.
line
You
One can be
in shape.
used.
The Bottom
for
to wrist.
On
Open
fullness
is
one inch
sprung.
of the
Sketch the
the
Straight
Three springs
at
On
the three.
of
On
in all,
to elbow.
Place the Line of the set in portion and spring only to that point for fullness.
You may
spring through in
it is
sprung
across back.
is
7 times
on
if
from
is
side
seam
One
huntdred five
Add about
you want
As
this is
an unusually Circular
to center back.
if
The Front
some instances
You may
fullness.
1^
Making
14 springs
When
the sleeve
is
on
extension in front
(/a/)).
The
Collar
The Cuff
is
is
a bias fold
made with
slot to thread
is
is
end through.
applied.
Its
width
is
half
wrist.
10 inches in width at
at top,
length 10 inches.
The Model
is
made
and
One hundred
six
or tUiiviA, uv enj0>u-
hundred
cigl't
Decoration of Line
In Decoration of Line Beauty comes
first.
Its artistic
line.
is
Most cases
Dress.
Line composition
to
you have
lines
of
important.
of the
an error
It is
ornamentation and
tion
of colors, materials,
Some
a design.
A gown may
the simplest.
is
mixed
it
is
value
The
best results
come from
the applica-
proportion.
The
Mod-
This Design
The
simplicity.
are
more
gracefully
in
is
an example
of fineness
and
Beauty of proportion
is
is
For instance,
Decoration of Line
of
is
is
One
in this
same degree
of
back to shoulder.
Modeling
Take your regular unsprung Kimona Chemise.
one inch
off of front
Add one
of material or paper.
line take
One one
inch
For
springing.
spring at Normal Waist Line, also one one inch above and one
The neck
is
Taper
to a point one-
Make
Do
Start roll of
lace 4 inches wide
at
continue around
with drop Center Front IJ^ inches, opposite side 2 inches, Center Back 1^2
inches.
The width
inches.
Very
bottom.
Put
effective is a gathering
same width
in the
as the
roll.
Keep
2^
lace even at
bottom by
lifting
lace to shoulder
sleeve.
in bias fold.
The
made up
shirring at top
and
Drapted three
yards.
at top line
or 3
is 2^/^
Lace
in
was used on one Model and Harem Roll on other (Lace and
on the
same
of
and chiffon
lined in brilliants
other.
Japanese Kimona
Take Regular Chemise Kimona, make length
Add
floor.
fullness
half
by
springing.
on right side
and
six inches
up and curve
to the point.
on
Add
Draw your
three
springs up to your shoulder seam, slightly curve the line from Chest Line
up.
Open and
half inch
thirds
on Shoulder Seam.
and
Sleeve width
is
open and
Seam.
wrist line dot, one-half on each side dot, open and spring
3/^
Back
is
Collar
One
is
is
cut Surplice.
same
line.
as usual.
front.
One hundred
ten
Descendency of Line
Descendency
of
Line
is
a line
in the
days of our
day designing.
to present
It is the
making
in use again.
it is
brought out
again.
The Art
of Transmitting Lines
The
logic in the
Your
Drop Yoke.
is
shown
most up
Descendency
of
to date frock.
Line
is
a subject.
creative composition
it is
must express
originality, introduc-
build around
it.
Quality.
In the Design given the ornamentation has been carried out in ribbon trim-
ming which
The
is
floral
to the
Wearer
While
Wearer
thte
flat
bows.
New, imparting
are Old
a Quaintness of Style.
Modeling
Take your Regular Chemise Kimona Block (Sprung) and
into a
it
inches then
The lower
Take one inch
portion
which
is
transfer
Yoke drops 4
See Lingerie.
is
on fold
of material or paper.
Get position
to Yoke.
The
^ for back.
Back
of
The
slot for
gathering
is
3^ in width,
Y/^
Block
is
folded in
same manner.
In the Panels, put Front and Back together and cut in one piece.
One hundred
thirteen
for
For fullness divide and spring six times, one inch springs.
French Lingerie
Lingerie has taken
of
all
de chine.
them charmingly
Some
of the
made
trimmed with
that
is
Lady
of
fashioned of
more
and crepe
of the
heavy
silks
and
satins.
ers,
wonted place
The Designs
cultured taste.
but
its
some
others daintilyf
fine
Lingerie Sets always find the same daintiness with the light silky
materials.
Crepe de Chine and Voile de Soie are mostly preferred, being so practical
broidery or
many
Filet or
other fancies.
woman demands
various shades: blue, mauve, yellow, and specially the roses, from the
The Designs
many
for
Also Bridal Sets of white crepe de chine with insets of Filet Me-
dallions
in
ness of Dresses.
effective.
For
Naturally this
owing
diff-
to the sheer-
coat Combinations.
Lingerie
is
One hundred
fifteen
of
of Oils
I STEP-1N%.
y BNVtLOTlS.
OPAf.
a CCMB/VAt/Om,
One
liundrcd sixteen
Lingerie
Step-Ins.
1.
Take
Then
as for folding.
Measure
out from point under the arm one inch and from Chemise Waist Line two
Draw from
inches.
that point
material or paper
is
bottom
to the
two inches
inches) measure
down through
down
to Side
is
is
raised
Seam
Lines.
is
Chemise
The Crotch
Seam being
left
at
From
fold.
This
in, dot.
the
is
Step
closed.
for Seat)
is
an open
diagram.
Modeling
1.
The Model
Block.
The
is
side
of
Seam
is
opened
At the
On
drawn.
is
From
5 inches
Lace
is
inserted in this
is
the 2
bow
ties
straps of ribbon.
2.
Front.
(A).
is
14 inches).
Draw Line
off at
at the
Chest Line.
The Length
etc. are
line.
of the Shirt is
bottom straight
Yokes,
Fullness
the
is
at
Measure
across.
The
added as trim-
Chemise Waist
Di-
vide on
then on each side of this line divide into one-half, dot, making three
half, dot,
springs in
lines
into one-
and
all.
Draw
lines
to
nothing.
Back.
(B).
Measure down
Draw
At
14 inches
Center Back.
in
optional.
is
the Chemise Waist Line measure out two inches for your side seam, dot,
from under the arm draw down through the two inch point and then down
For
Making
dot,
three springs in
Draw
all.
lines
from points
the bottom part of the Regular Block (Peplum) for the Drawers.
Use
your y^ dart
in,
little
inches out.
On
projection (this
Waist Line
draw down
For
all.
about
is
1^
measure down 4 or 6
bottom
to
3 of
line
Red Curve on
fullness
on bottom
line.
For
draw
From
these points
draw
lines
up
to waist line,
this
14 inches.
in
Put
the Waist Line (Tight) measure out one inch for side seam.
that point
on each
caused by bringing
From
is
From
Open and
to Chest Line.
(AV
Drav/ers
line.
of this point.
From
optional, also
if
you wish an
elastic
Spring-
full-
make
Back.
(Drawers B).
Use
Peplum
the
of the
Back Block.
There
is
down
14 inches
One hundred
eighteen
Waist Line.
from
straight line
down
4 or
6 inches.
From
projection point
tom
From
the Tight Waist Line measure out one inch for side seam,
line.
draw down
seven inches
down
bottom
on each side
of this dot.
Making
three springs in
all,
open and
then one-half
insert spring,
you wish
If
around waist and fullness send one inch springs clear through.
top of waist line extra for slot to thread elastic through.
to Seat Springs.
into one-half.
From
line.
to this point.
elastic
Also add on
Turn your
attention
Below
Make
in.
Open and
insert
length of
to the
Red
Model
off at
If
you
Band one
inch wide.
and draw
elastic through.
desire fullness
Waist Line
it
is
of Drawers.
Cut a Bias
Modeling
2.
The Material
is
Crepe Georgette.
slots are
The bottom
The Yoke
part of garment
slot turned
back and
elastic
Bears.
Front A.
One hundred
nineteen
is
of the
embroidered
Chemise Shirt
linen.
Drafted
Picot
One
to waist line
threaded through.
Teddy
is
strips inserted.
same.
The springing
The
at Center Front.
enough added
for elastic
is
the
draw across
to
bottom
seam
the side
up
inches,
Chest Line.
Meas-
line.
to Chest Line,
and tapering up
From
inches.
line dot,
in
If
elastic
at
and
Draw
all.
to nothing.
that
line
off at
line.
two
line over
down
point draw
to points.
Draw bottom
14 inches.
bottom
with fullness
Back
(B).
down
14 inches
of Regular Block
on edge
side
line
two
inches,
draw
at
Measure
Measure up on Center
for Crotch.
of material or paper.
to points.
from
dot,
under the arm (Chest Line) draw down through the two inch point to
bottom
line.
For
fullness divide
Making
to nothing.
If
three springs.
Waist Line.
Two
From
elastic
up from these
Back Line
Three springs
in
on
into
Draw
spring.
lines
make
Draw
up
Sew
first
Open and
all.
Cut a straight
Modeling
3.
The
Material of the
of Butterfly
Design
is
Teddy Bear
inserted.
is
of
Crepe Georgette.
Filet Medallions
These can be
terial or ribbon.
either in the
same ma-
The Studio
The
three ruffles
in
were
same
the
of
Butterflies.
The
Prim-
in a floral design of
Pajamas.
4.
Coat (A).
same has
Make
straight neck.
of the sleeve
is
point, (curve
The end
Draw up
side.
dot,
and
length
measures
of coat
line at that
into one-half
Open and
to point
The
neck around).
point across.
on each
The length
spring by
Back.
Coat (B).
Point the shoulder seam at the sleeve edge and deduct the inch at the
top.
(match same
Neck opening
Add one
to front).
will be at
The length
line across.
is
three
For
full-
ness divide the bottom line into one-half dot, then one-half on each, side,
Open and
in
is
made
lines
up to points above.
Chest Line.
insert springs
The Coat
Draw
all.
Pants (A).
or paper.
The
Crotch.
long.
Side
Measure
in
Seam
is
the
same
on bottom
line.
When
14
6%
inches (or
more
Red Curve on
If
Make
if
34 inches
wider leg
6^/^
is
inch point
fullness
line
preferred) dot.
inches down.
line
Waist Line.
On
bottom
leg
is
Seam
Side
From
preferred).
in.
Add
6^
measure over
line
Vq,
draw up
wider
if
For Seat
Below
If
fullness
7 inches,
If fullness is
added cut
Waist Line.
off at
inch taper-
stitch
more
a spring two inches above and two inches below, making three
ing to nothing.
about
(or
Draw
Place springs.
springs.
34 inches long.
again dot.
seam
that point
make
Draw
down
lines
elastic through.
Modeling
4.
The Model
The
initials are
is
made
of
drafting.
On
Waist Line.
Block.
line.
Side
Seam Line
Width
The Width
of
ties are
3 inches
side
Pants.
is
seam and
Back
Silk.
in length.
in
IJ/^
line
of the
Coat
and draw
strip 6 inches
For width
of strip
make width ^4
the same.
of
an
is
inch.
Tie
put on an
Measure up from
is
6 inches long.
Strip point 4
Back
is
done
elastic.
5 Envelopes.
Front (A).
dot.
As
Chest Line measure out one inch and dot under the arm and two inches at
dot.
the
Draw from
this line to
Center Front.
half
on each
From
side.
you have
draw
straight lines
bottom tapering up
do
to
is
to send
then one
up open and
to nothing.
you want
If
Back (B).
Measure out from Chemise Waist Line on Regular Block two inches
From under
dot.
the
Below
dot.
line.
14 inches
Seat.
that point into J4 again, dot, place spring, spring two inches above
For
fullness at
on each
of block.
side dot,
strip
(Cross
draw
For
strap.
If
you want
fullness at
and attach
lines
is
dowm
in front).
There
Modeling
5.
The Model
is
made
of Voile de Sole
and Lace.
On
Side
Cut
off at
Seam put
is
Front (A).
Color of material
1^
Place
Draw Line
two
1/2
inch Darts.
These darts
will
draw same
in
Figure Fitting.
Back (B).
On
left side
edge.
One hundred
twenty-three
of
Back with a
half inch
band
Top
finished, stitch
'
DKOPSttOULDlK f-..
NliHTeOW
/ M
cofniiMfTin'i
Modeling
6.
The Model
is
made up
in Satin
center front.
(A)
of the
It is
a straight neck so
Top
for the
we
will turn
it
portion
back one
inch in the front to the Waist Line, pinch up one inch on shoulder, add also
two
inches.
The length
Button hole
and curve.
the top of
as the Front.
long.
In making
pit.
on shoulder for
tie
as shoulder
1^
inches
seam opens.
Tip the sleeve so that you can take the one inch off on
the neck as this is a straight line neck. Do not forget to add the
For
Chest Line
pit or
from arm
draw
Back.
(B)
same
tip of shoulder,
The Length
of Yoke, Sleeve
slot in the
is
the
on shoulder.
Modeling
7.
Yoke
is
of
8 Brassieres.
Open and
and one one inch above and one one inch below.
ing one inch tapering to nothing.
Evenly placed
Open and
spring by spread-
or 8 inches
in width.
straight across
One hundred
twenty-five
Modeling
8.
The
Brassiere
is
made
of 7 inch
bound
is
in.
9 Empires.
(A).
1^
On
Waist Line.
to
Then draw
line straight
across.
Make curved
inch.
inch below.
Draw
seam
Measure lYz
38 inches long.
For the
and bottom.
side
line.
Back (B).
Bust
Modeling
9.
The
points;
on each point
Bouquet
10
is
on
is
left side of
is
The edge
silk.
inserted a Heart
MedaUion
of Filet.
French
Bodice.
Front (A).
turn back one inch in front, pinch in one inch on shoulder seam, and add
and draw
in the
Shoulder Curve to the actual length of the shoulder (S^^), then take the Blue
in a
Take
to the
5 of
End
Red Curve
of Shoulder
of Shoulder
Divide into one-half dot, then two inches above and two inches below
way
To add
in the width.
fullness in the
all.
Slant the
Open and
Body
first
spring
One hundred
on the
tiventy-six
bottom
Then on
Draw
straight lines
up put
in the
up
Making
three springs in
all.
to
Open and
insert
Back (B).
On
the Original
Add your
Block be sure you have followed the rules for the Straight Neck.
Curve
in the Shoulder
in a
in side slant
The Springing
Seam.
Take
5 of
Red
of Shoulder
is
Modeling
10.
The Material
Night
of the
Gown
and
tied in
bows
in the
diamond shapes
Shadow Lace
Crepe de Chine.
is of
in lace.
Ribbon
On
is
is
threaded
shoulder wreaths of
roses are rnade of the crepe de chine and small black ribbon.
Around waist
is tied
11.
Billie
Burkes.
Front (A).
14 inches
paper.
The
14 inch point
On
Draw from
dot.
is
this point
8%
Draw bottom
inches and
line.
draw from
Fit Block.
Back (B).
Draw
up
From
Add
a straight line
down
Make
to Crotch.
down
in
3 inches
more
for fullness at
this point
up to the
Straight Necks.
all
Line down 14 inches from your Chemise Waist Line for point of Crotch.
this
in to one-half width.
in slanting
Draw
and from
From
Front.
and from
draw up
this point
The Length
draw up
this point
to the 7 inches
Straight Line
one
insert
down from
this
to Crotch.
Open and
8^
down
the
same as the
Block.
Modeling
11.
Use Block
in front,
which
2 inches over
Divide line from Neck Line into 4 equal parts and add the points.
On
on Bust Line.
at bottom.
Make
top.
The Back
Billie
Burke
is
down
away put
a false
On
The
fold.
The
is
down
end onto
Also
is
of
of
another color.
The edges
The
12.
Bodice (A).
down
Under
to
Arm
Waist Line.
Draw from
to Chest
this point
dart.
and draw up
Make
inches.
One hundred
twenty-eight
below Chest Line, and about one inch around arm hole
to about Yi inch
Back (B).
The Back
is
Make
straps, etc.
Bloomers (C).
Take Regular
Then draw
draw up
may add
your bottom
points
draw
Fullness
up to waist.
Opposite
down
down
From
to Crotch point.
2 inches and
is
optional.
If
For regular
Open and
fullness divide
dot.
From
these
tapering up to nothing.
Back (D).
Take Regular
for Crouch.
Divide
from Chemise Waist Line and Crotch into one-hi^f and then one-hnlf again
for Seat.
Draw for
first
and two inches below add spring, taper these springs toward center one.
Three springs
On
in
Open and
all.
Straight Line from Tight Waist Line opposite Crotch po'nt mea'^'-e
down
like front
on straight
draw up
From
Draw bottom
line 2 inches.
is
to Crotch pomt.
For
len<;^th
Add
the Full-
Modeling
12.
The Bodice and Bloomer Combination
is
Trimming
of
Silk.
two
materials.
The
made
Bodice and
Skirt.
is
Only cut
Back
off
about
is
15 inches
from Chemise
straps.
Skirt (A).
Use Regular
Waist Line
On bottom
in length.
On Waist Line
on diagram).
line
Make about
extra fullness
is
Divide on Waist Line into one-half dot, then on right side into one-half dot.
On
Spring
Back (B).
is
Open and
down about
three
Modeling
13,
The Bodice (Bodice and
The
Skirt
is
Skirt Combination)
is
of
14 Garters.
Ribbon, Elastic, Lace and French Flowers are what Garters are comprised
of.
Yard
3/4
Elastic.
3 yards Ribbon.
IJ/^
yards Lace.
Modeling
14,
Divide Ribbon into four parts and sew two together wrong side and on
each edge.
Then turn
right side
and thread
elastic through.
Add Lace on
side.
One hundred
thirty
One hundred
thirty-two
Art
Lilliputian
Children Clothes
Lilliputian Art in Designing
in Dress" for the
is
Younger Generation.
of the
World enjoy
Grown Ups.
well as the
6-7-8
figure
Mark
space or
first
in the 6 inches
crown
of the
head
Draw
a perpendicular
inch.
or Second Line
is
forehead.
Line
is
The width
of the neck
is
Waist Line
is
pit to the
and
The width
of the shoulders is
The
Y2 faces across.
proportion of the
arm
The arm
hole
pit to the
is
is
the
same
to the wrist
is
One hundred
thirty-three
is
also,
In a child
from the
younger children
to the
as
The
the same.
loins of the
elbow
of 4 to 5 years,
for
The length
of Center Line.
is
Between
C and E
would go about
MTTeUM fiKAfT
sit
^tAh
SIX yfiK.
5>-
It
\t
draft,
Bust measurement.
measurement which
From your
first
from
dot on Line
5 inches,
lines to
from
Dot
first
draw short
5^
Measure
At each one
and J4
3n inch beyond.
(Face
Down)
into
draw
dot,
o^
^^
End
this point
Take Red
inch.
One and
dot on Line
first
line across to
From
and up J4
Between
6; betweien
One
Neck.
and
4, 5
of
o^f
of
of these dota
on Back
is
on
in
in 1^4 inches
Back
in the
Back divide
line in.
One measure
Syce
this dot
draw perpendicular
Arm
is
parallel
On
Draw
of Shoulder
Seam
it
of the Shoulder.)
Take
on
11 inches.
dot on Line
Take
this
(The Pitch
Take
inches
IJ/^
7.
dot on Line
in Slant of Shoulder.
C and
first
Back Yoke).
of
and draw
of
Front
Then
Shoulder.
take
arm
and place
1^
Line
7.
draw
One hundred
in
thirty-five
let this
amount
rest
on Line 6 and
2Yr,
4Yr.
6 Yr.
8 Yr.
9]/^
lOJ/1
10
11
11^
izy.
4i/^
4^
5J4
8]^
10^
11
12
13
131^
HJ^
16
17
11^
12^
13^
14
16
18
20
22^
24^^
25^
28
30
lOH
IIH
12
12^
13
13
14^
16
20
23
9^
6^
1^
1^
IJ^
Syce
Pitch of Shoulder
Width
Back
of
Cont. Measure
Chest
Length
of Front
Waist
9%
Neck
Length
11
of Skirt
Elbow
4^
6^
Wrist
7^
6^
IJ^
1^
1^
4^
Rise of Back
Sleeve to
Elbow
to
Back Neck
Between
draw
down
straight Line
10 Yr. 12 Yr.
dot,
From
Line, dot.
Back.
dot,
this point
this point
is
15 inches,
and continue
on Center Front
On
one inch
10
to indefinite length.
measure and take ly^ inches out and place on dot on Line
down and
from
6?4
dot.
Then draw
to dot
down
17 inches
to opposite sides.
necessary in separating
pattern to either trace off Back or Front of draft as the Skirt of the Patterri
overlaps.
You may
J/^
insert spring
on each
one inch
Draw
side.
at
lines straight
Modeling
1.
Take
in Front.
this
to
seam
Line
Then look
make
to
is
Yz of the
One hundred
Waist
thirty-six
From
Lay
Line.
As
this
The Back
cut the
is
in'
the AKladi Models, the rules for the Children's Clothes are done likewise,
The neck
the neck.
transferred
Lay
by inches
on sketch transferred
from shoulder
tip up,
1^
3 inches.
Under arm
is
The
is
point of neck
The end
1^
thirds
down 2^4
is
arm
Measure;
made from
thirds
From
inches on pattern.
transferred.
thirds transferred
on pattern.
to inches
The
in thirds are
off in thirds
thirds
The amount
width of
thirds of the
is
The width
hole.
With
is
extension of two-
The Back
Skirt:
Take
line.
Draw
lines
same way.
Make knee
line of skirt.
If
length.
same
is
sleeves.
deeper shades.
The
skirt
bow
of
small
of
at waist.
at neck point,
draw
For width
of
One hundred
line 4 inches
down.
thirty-seven
Kimona Block
A%
Block in
the,
in
drop
Lingerie.
Take
to shoulder point.
Draw
Gown
in length of shoulder
draw curve up
transfer into a
Put
2.
of
5 of
Same
applies to back.
1%
Measure) on shoulder
seam
4 inches on shoulder
down
The back
dot,
is
The width
unsprung).
length
is
below waist
line
plaits in pattern
yoke
The
of
is
Red
skirt
cherries
two rows
better to take
Back
same on
Draw from
of 10,
amount where
measure down on
children's.)
that line
up
Then from
From
to waist.
Measure
into one-half.
draw from
up
that dot
to waist
is
more; instead
the
at waist.
line.
line.
of
that
the
draw
flat
skirt.
Around the
plaits.
Panel and
not draft
The Back
five times.
so
4 inches
is
Do
is
The
but fold them in the material to the size and then put the
To
hem.
Panel (this
is 2
The
to
Separate the skirt portion from the Block and spring from the
Skirt.
Bottom up
Panel
of the
of
line of yoke.
measure 10^
it is
desired.
for crotch.
If
you
inch
is
put on an
elastic
waist
legs.
line neck.
or paper.
Pinch out on center of shoulder a one-inch dart and add one inch
of
point
is
Back
Match
the edge
your sleeve and run shoulder seams together then pinch out one inch at
down
draw
line dot.
end
line.
Two
of Blouse.
Then from
measure out
Draw
line
Two
this dot,
The loop
2 inches.
is 5
side of the
One hundred
thirty-eight
As
line,
making
inches added.
extends 5 inches below the skirt hem, the added amount would be 12
it
The Blouse
inches.
The Back
Panel
is
front.
The
is
is
The
one, inch at
top.
same way.
The Model
The Model
white.
The
is
is
The embroidery
Blue Bells
of the
down
Make curved
shoulder
make button
tied
in neck line.
The
Skirt
is
Back
Sailor
first will
made
narrow ribbon.
of very
this ribbon
1%
in silk floss.
line.
down
On
fhirty-nine
hip.
right
inches or more.
From
On waist
Block
line
this point
draw up
to the waist
on
this point
left side
From
From
dot.
to this point
and
of the
The
is
of the child.
One hundred
The same
Spring up three
down on
Boy:
from
From
inch
fold
is
sprung 14 times.
2 inches
line
One
on
Measure up
The
Draw
center front.
elbow.
sizes
inch
left side.
draw a
Con-
line
down
I^
to point
on
inches and
One hundred
forty
The Back
in the
is
This
all
To
and
And
Add
and center
Put
flap
and between
dot,
And on
Open
way between
underneath.
this
down from
front.
inch longer
line
it is
Open
spring two
If
Open and
desired.
if
measurement
springing.
up to the knee.
it
line.
can button
it
can
fly
Blouse
Add two
arm.
Cut
Draw
line
to under the
Use
the
same
inchi
The
Sailor Collar
is
shoulders, then adding the curve of the neck and side neck.
sion in back of 6 inches.
around neck
The
is
V and
line.
sleeve
The
or a straight cuff.
face.
If it is
in Red,
Blue Worsted.
6.
The
of
by putting back
to back,
extra inch
Add an
collar on.
cuff
if
exten-
measured by secur-
collar.
With an
The Tie
and we
of Red.
will draft
the blouse
first.
down one
inch from neck point and with a Yz inch extension beyond end of
shoulder seam.
Put same on
Put
On
shoulder measure
From
Blouse.
familiar to a
down
2 inches for
Back is done
same with the exception you do not add the one inch under the arm.
Sleeve
Grown
desired.
3 inches in
The
cuff of our
The
proportions.
Round
added afterwards.
The Front
piece
is
6 inches in length
crotch.
you would a
Secure the length of the wrist band by measuring the child's wrist
amount
Pants
draft a sleeve as
wrist band.
to the
make
Separate and
Up's.
Grown Ups.
and
arm hole
the blouse.
the
a large
is
1^
a
back and
below the
2 inches
it is
inch
good plan
to
chest.
measure and
y^,
If it is a regulation size
on a 4-year
old,
it
will
the.
measure
is
is
measured, take
extension desired.
The Back
is
draw up
and
inch
inch in width.
to waist line.
stitched in red.
Pongee
of
The Pants
of
Navy Blue
velvet
is
The
stitched in red.
Girl's Coat.
7.
Take your regular Kimona Block and reduce the Body part
Tight Bodice.
Proceed to do
Tight Bodice.
The only
is
Add one
difference
is
to a
for a
The
this as
Kimona
Wi
in center of Sleeve.
The Back
is
Skirt of Coat
One hundred
is
skirt block
forty-lhree
inch.
The
Back
Cape
Model
of
shoulder.
As
The
Model
the
length
is
is
of white
Side
line
Seam
any
in
size,
of material or paper.
Draw
The
American Broadtail.
arm
line.
Put on piece
to
is
fur.
banded in
is
fur
The bottom
is
At the bottom
of skirt
of
Sketch in
larger.
an
new
point.
As
the
Model
is
double breasted,
it is
Extend
below Line One about an inch and a half and from that point trace directly
up to neck
line.
When
line to the
is
folded imder
is
collar.
line,
measure up one inch and draw down to about one-half inch above center
front line.
Then draw a
vary) to neck
line.
For
amount
will
about 8 inches
long or that amount sufficient for a collar smd place on the front so the edges
will
match up.
You
will also
have to even
off
is
treated the
same
for a coat,
it
Woman.
This Model was made up in Camel's Hair Material of a light tan shade.
9.
the
draft your
same as the
rules in
Number
2.
your regular Kimona Block and spring 15 times. Then measure down on the
shoulder seam and center front in inches where your
One hundred
forty-four
you
that
will
have extra from the regular Kimona Block gather up onto your
65^ inches on Center front line and from this point measure out
Draw
inches, dot.
line
if
up
you want
good
elastic
down
line
to the knee.
Make
The Back
is
top.
Make
throughout by hand
of black taffeta.
Apply
10.
1^
size puff.
is all
and a
to waist line
on
portion to
This
Top
draw
fullness
drop yoke.
down
The
on properly.
fit
For position
normal waist
line.
2^/i
The springing
The
1^
or Z inches and
The length
line.
is
of the
straight neck
Model
is
in front
neck line
and draw
in
The length
optional.
of
of the sleeve is
doubled.
The
be produced by putting
flat
and cut
out.
Use
original block.
of material or paper.
is
One hundred
forfy-fivg
collar.
in
is
of block.
Then
That
seam
of the same.
Kimona
Block, allowing
The length
of
same
is
half
Line.
in
Monkey
iKRTi
JUMPff.
SLfrn
itmr-CArt CfBii'TiOM.
One hundred
forty-six
The
for
Country wear.
Town
mannish
is
itself,
a real
simplicity.
The Art
of
is
The Ward-
Knickers.
2.
Sports Jumper.
A
A
3.
4.
Skirt that
is
Exhibition No.
The
1.
Model
the
displays
Jumper
and
Knicker
combination.
Exhibition No.
The Model
2.
combination.
ExJhibition No.
The Model
3.
now
converted into a
An Outfit complete
Smart Week End Kit.
Your Lines
in
for
Outdoor
Life.
And
ideas.
line
Modeling
Knickers.
1.
Do
lines
down
26 inches
not Spring.
and measure down on a straight Center Front Line 14 inches for the crotch
dot.
Measure out
Model.
bottom
From
line
either 2 inches or
whatever extension
needed in the
(which
is
On
the
is
Here
it is
From
this point
inches dot.
From
measure
these two
dots on the bottom line measure up 4 inches for the tight part of the knickers
Draw
dot.
up
lines
On
Or
the Knickers.
From
may be added
this
in
by
measure
From
Draw
hand drawing.
free
line
side.
On Normal
Waist Line between Center Front and Side Seam Line divide
into one-half
At
dot.
The Back
the seat.
mark
this point
on each
in size)
on the right
for a dart.
side.
is
Divide between waist line and crotch point into one-half dot, then
At
The
tapering to nothing.
On
Straight Line.
4-inch point
is
same
width in and
i/^
ment
darts (smaller
of the measure-
as the front.
Back
Build same on a
If
you wish
to
inch Belt.
3 inches over
down from
inches
1^
belt
seam point on
side
seam
2-inch line.
Draw
line.
Measure 2^4
Also cut the separate extra piece for the pocket with an extension that
line.
side
Draw
dot.
Add
Add your
belt straps or
make double
Sports Jumper.
2.
bottom
line
The Flap
front
When
will
One
a line
is
is
Add
made by measuring
On Neck
From
cut open
line
this point
you
will
2 inches over
draw a
line
down
to dot
on Chest Line.
into Yz
Silhouette
on waist
line dot.
it
othfer line
One hundred
dot.
forty-eight
Draw
The Sleeve
is
Then measure
arm
Draw
this point.
of the
neck meas-
At
line of
At
collar.
your
measure
this point
urement at
hole.
Draw
Making about
collar
Draw
this point.
Measure the
this point to
There
collar.
is
no spring-
3.
diagram.
Make same
15 inches in length
half
Silhouette Lines.
tail of
Measure in one
line dot.
the shirt.
of the shirt
is
Negligee shirts have yokes, so take your regular working block and
raise the shoulder
seam
on top
From
this
line
This
is
point
draw seam
dot.
From
to neck line.
this point
draw
line
up to neck
line.
down one
inch dot.
dot.
from
arm
The
This
Yz in
is
Body
Sleeve
is
On
neck
hole dot.
line
dot.
line
line
On
Trace
off
straight
Draw
of the shoulder.
dot.
Draw
line
seam transferred
One
will
become
straight.
to
Take
the under
arm
piece
and cut directly down the center and place each piece in regular formation on
each side of the top block.
around.
One hundred
forty-nine
side; of
Measure up
As
"^
3 inches
Cuffs:
draw a
This cuff
folded.
c'orners to
is 3
line
up
to that amount.
Soft Collar:
makes
6 inches.
side.
band
is 1^/2
inches.
The
13/^
the top
The
collar*
The width on
Sew
inches.
with an
height of the
other.
portion slants from the one inch point in on top of neck band.
Round
is
clear through.
Measure up
the collar
Skirt.
Which
is
of
lines of
a skirt
30 inches in length.
Make
Make about
2 inches in width.
Make
The
skirt is in
snapped together.
The
skirt is
is only-
all
pieces
was made
of
Henna
colored Tweed.
One hundred
fifty
One hundred
fifty-two
in Fashion
Fads
Circular Capes
Fads
cular
in
of different
The
Circular Cape
Fashion.
It
has
made
one
is
of the
in
Fads in
its
repetition.
In Designing the foundation of a cape the Lines are mostly
The
Straight
true Lines of a Cape are classified in Circular, Semi-Circular,
Hang and
The new
Drape.
come
ideas
Yokes and
For material
pendulum
effect, or
an idea that
is
Body
part, or
Bands
is
Modeling
Three Piece Back
(to
Capes).
of
indefinite line.
On
B on
place
to
on the two
dot.
One hundred
From
the
From
line
fifty-three
and draw
Make
in
your
in
down
mark on arm
line
Take your
on short
Yoke.
last dots
in
dot,
line of
two inches
Draw
dot.
down
an inch
Line up to center
of
Measure down on
to
hole.
your
left
down
point measure
the;
2 inch dart.
Under each
point.
down and
for forming
To
tion Block.
on short
On
down
the
is
to that
measure down 4
line,
down
inch dot
also understand
down
You can
to opposite dots.
Draw from
dot 4 inches.
was obtained
Draw
Then draw
below that
From
4 inches dot.
directly
Now
to that dot.
Under
Arm
now where
the
piece, Side
2J/^
inches
Circular Cape
For a Circular Cape take your Regular Working Block and your 3 piece
back.
Be sure
that
you have a
and up
enough piece
large
From
and
dot.
Under
and
At
Arm
dot,
At
in center
As near
as
it
is
possible, keep
six inches
if
your
your Under
Arm
Piece,
Piece measiure six inches and dot, then measure six inches
and
work
of material or paper to
more and
dot,
making
18 inches separation.
Arm
At
this
more
The
separation in
alter.
In the length always take the length from the Waist Line and measure
down
in inches
Normal Waist Line measure up on Center Front two inches and measure
down from
The
that point
Military Cape
Take your regular Front Working Block and your Three Piece Back.
Place same on material or paper in the same manner but separatei in divi-
One hundred
fifty-four
In placing together
sions of 3 inches.
The
length
is
made
Number One
in the
or Military Cape
Collar of this
More
is
is all
neck
is
2 inches
dot, the
allow about 21
Cut on neck
first
is
dot.
Draw
6 inches.
line
From
this
a straight Une
collar.
to cut with
a better advantage.
You must
cut in one.
of the
Model
desirable
side.
Model
on the shoulder.
dart
The
make a
will
it
As
five inches
the upper
portion goes around the neck doubled for the collar and the lower portion
for the cape
and cascade.
Direjctly
and fold
Add
Draw from
down about
point up to shoulder
seam
in cascade.
The
made
of Satin
Faced Crepe.
The, color
was black
Number Two
Circular
line
The
side
Cape Block.
The
Shirring
an inch
Collar
drafted
is
Draw
Started on waist;
Trim
off
Measure 2 inches up at
Draw
Measure up
The
piece.
end points.
is
apart.
into one-half.
or Circular Cape:
this point
line ta'
in center
of the collar.
Draw
extend beyond the end perpendicular lines about the same amount as
width measurement.
back to end of neck
From
line.
The
is
line.
made
fifty-five
of
One hundred
thei
collar.
Lined in
Same
is
Yoke Models
Yokes can be drafted
Cape Block
may
amount
off,
spring the cape of the Military Block from the top dowrt
in
of fullness desired.
effect.
The number
of springs accord-
Yokes may
also be drafted
One hundred
fifty-six
Pft rersKixr.
JtUii/AH TILCVll
One hundred
fifty-eight
(Young
Fille
Girls)
This
is
found readily in the Linear and Aerial adaption of Lines in Misses' Dresses.
Intermediate Ages can either take the Linear Lines with the Straight
and Slenderizing
Or
effects.
Independent of Line
we have
materials.
made
materials.
and
when we had
We
less Seasonable.
silver
can recall
com-
binations in Models.
Jeune
wrong impression
is
Psychology
department in Designing.
of
Line to be vice-versa.
Each having
its
own
mixed
It is
it is
lines
Consumer.
Because
style in their
wardrobe.
In the creation using Linear Lines use your Line Technique in Junior
adaption (modify your line to become the Misses' Tjrpe).
effects the
While
in the Aerial
is
made over
This
in line to the
Young
Girl
of
Type (Jeune
is
befitting
Fille).
Modeling
The Model
either can be
Kimona
Blouse.
One hundred
fifty-nine
made up with
effect.
The
Illustration
is
at the
through
Draw from
.dot.
Then add
Line.
your silhouette
for
is
And
the
Model
add 3
to 4
manner.
in the Regulation
3 inches
is
The length
is 3
fullness
The Neck on
Line,
For
Back
arm down
6 inches
line
The
From
inserted
Kimona
of the
Sleeve
this point
draw
line
up to
neck
circular
line.
The
Model
Illustrated
is
made upon
Neck
The
Back
is
The extension
Line.
Fullness
is
of
Kimona Blouse
Blouse
is
6 inches
the same.
Sleeve:
Kimona
Kimona
y/^
of the
For
Sleeve.
Draw
v^rrist.
the length.
BoufFant Skirt:
The
outside skirt
is
made
of
two widths
of material 40
The same
Put most
of the fullness
on the
The
is
sides.
length to
be about 36 or 38 inches.
The
made
pin tucks in
to appear as a large
Measure about
12 inches
measure distance
to
hem.
Which
extends about
edge of
skirt.
dot,
is
from
Divide the width of the Front and Back into thirds, dot.
of the Pin
3/^
Which
this point
of the facing.
Place the
shapes
Arranging about 4 or 6
One hundred
sixty
duced
And
in facing
and hemstitched
the Studio
in.
in.
Back
is
pro-
same manner.
in the
The Bodice
of the underslip is
made from
Draw from
The Bodice
is
Add Shoulder
at
For fullness
2 inches at
the
If
Straps of ribbon.
not tight
Drape on
Back
is
produced
Peg Top
Skirts:
in the
same manner.
Take regular
more
off at the
3/^
skirt rather
The
of
One hundred
sixty-one
down.
narrow.
Back
If
the length.
is
you
done
desire
Cut same,
been added.
of the length
made with
Ow
hundred sixiy-two
The Tailored
restraint
is
ultra smart in
Models
and
of artistic simplicity
in design of
correctness.
The Lines
of a Tailored
Model should be
In designing, the Designer should create his Line to pertain to the useful
arts.
The
have for
of
Adornment
all
lines that
It is the
practical.
Heights
is
Woman.
employed
in designing Tailored
Costumes
your
Profile
make
grade of heights.
connect your
The
lines.
points or lines
it
stop
up under
maybe more
just
this line.
on
make
all
That
you
Line,
End
of
your Model.
is,
Or
Or properly
or less intermingled
as long as possible.
below another
by proportions.
It is in this
profile of
irregularities of line.
Take
way
that
your Model
into consideration
your Divi-
which are: Chest Line, Bust Line, Waist Line, Top of Limbs
Knee Cap
Lines,
Elbow
Linee, Line
Line.
Also the Neck Line, Edge of Sleeve Line and Edge of Skirt Line.
Select your
Line,
is
is
of
your Divisional
lines so
you
is
creating Line
by elevation on graduated
One hundred
Altitude of Line
means
Be exceedingly
sixty-three
circles.
By
lines.
The angles
graduated
circle.
of the
For example,
if
refract or
make
line.
same
The
sizes.
above or below your grade line must be applied with correctness of curve
and distance.
same guidance
as in the Heights o
Lines.
One hundred
sixty -four
jtitere,
I
st/ui-rinT COAT
oomak
Cue hundred
sixty six
Modeling
Straight Jacket.
1.
Take the regular working block and place on the edge of your
Measure out one inch
material or paper. Place in a straight shoulder seam.
Draw from dot
the arm and three inches at the Chemise Waist Line.
Front:
under
Arm
Hole.
Add
As same
inch.
Then add
is
a Coat Block
It is also correct in
original inch
for extra width to add one inch in addition to the
The
the Design.
a
Kimona
If
Sleeve
is desired.
Hole.
It all
from Block.
depends upon
Sleeve Block.
Take your regular working block and proceed the same as Front.
Back:
With
Kimona
Arm
Coat Block
is
it
Regulation 3 times.
Sleeve :
arm
size.
Take Under
draft straight.
Arm
Block
Top Portion
Then
take
Top
Portion.
After
Collar:
amount.
of sleeve
One
Place Line
Take Top
at the elbow.
tions.
Measure
Rules for drafting sleeve with the seam under the arm.
Width
Draw
Draw
line of Jacket.
1^
a line to that
Separate
sides,
take lower portion of block and on Chemise Waist Line divide between
Seam add
Model together
One hundred
3 extra springs
this point
sixty-seven
Between
on the
sides.
and
In placing
of
makes pinched
Back
is
produced
in the
Costume
of
line.
same manner.
Henna
With
piquetine.
The
of
Semi-Tight Coat.
2.
From
line parallel
Add one
Waist Line.
inch,
Draw bottom
down
to this point.
Make
is
carried out
dot.
trimming
of
The long
Waist Line.
from neck
to
The
Take regular
Sleeve.
Elbow
drafted in the
is
from Wrist
Reduce Block
remainder of sleeve
:
is
Measure
in
collar.
Do
Model
of sleeve
line.
this point
At
The
1^/2
line to that
inches up.
Make
Tuxedo
From
below wrist
is
to wrist point.
one inch.
rules for
From
Elbow.
collar line
to the
length.
back
For
to elbow.
Collar
same manner
Leave
to the
end
of
of the
a width of about
fitting of collar.
Same;
Collar.
Front:
Take regular
is
skirt
block
(unsprung).
a surplice block.
Place on material or
in
One hundred
on Waist
sixty-eight
down
to edge of skirt.
On
From
dot.
this line
this point
draw a perpendicular
line
From
dot.
the end of this line on bottom line measure over 3 inches, dot, and from
this point
make a
draw up
From
On
One
at ends.
dot.
Cut
springs and turn the folded under portion of your material or paper out.
Then
Model
the Model.
When
folded out.
is
is
and
is
the
clustered up into
a draped effect.
Beck:
side
seams
line 6 inches
off
is
The Jacket
when worn,
attached, so,
of the Studio
One Darted
Front:
collar.
On
side only.
it
The
to Tight or
of Black
Coat.
Add one
Add
Draw
on
same
or Normal
Draw
siTty-nine
draw
place
of the
this point
Peplum:
From
One hundred
Duchesse Satin
White Broadcloth.
skirt of
Back
point.
material or paper.
rules.
Draw
seam on right-hand
a side
is
under, a garter
down
dot.
of skirt
There
3.
Trace
Measure over
joined.
an inch, dot.
Slightly curve
of
From
this
Waist Line.
9 inches dot.
From
SL(y{.
O/IJffi
Z7 TINlLy
.
-^
VLMTCP iKIXr
ftOMT
ri
oAc/c.
r-t
TT
V,
TlMH
T STiAI6MT
SiClxr
5TXAI6H T AKHfT.
PACK
r&VP/H TAILenfiCAT.
this point
down
line.
to side
seam
point.
Draw
dot.
up from
line
From
9 inches, dot.
add
flares
this point
draw
One
7 springs.
line
inch at
Back
is
bottom
For length
Draw
line.
from
line.
Collar
of collar
Draw
point.
Draw
Draw
lines to the
and
Neck Measurenient).
Draw
same
Measure up
(Twelve inches).
point to the
little fullness.
collar.
is
the collar.
it
From
Yz length, dot.
this point
draw
At
Draw
edge of the
line
down
to the ends.
times bottom.
Draped
Skirt:
The diagram
is
Not a
pattern.
It
of
seam inward.
rows
Sew up
of shirring.
plaits.
It is
4.
10 inches
The
Easing
figure.
You may
up into about
5 or 6
It will
around the
Grey Grosgrain
About
seams by
it
fox trimming
was
of
line.
Platinum
Take Regular Kimona Block and measure out 3 inches at the Chemise
Waist Line dot. Draw from under the arm down through that point and 4
inches beyond.
effect
If
the
the arm.
Model
For
rethej
lapel of the coat raise one inch in front above neck line
For
line.
and draw a
add
fullness
line to
5 springs.
Length
ing (unsprung).
Back
is
Collar.
Draw
ment.
By same
up (or back
and
of
into one-half
At each one
dot.
and
a line to that
Measure
dot.
amount
line to
and end
of collars points
down
these points
draw
straight lines
collar line.
Make
cut
is
end of collar
of these dots
end points.
to
measure-
of
IJ/^
Draw curved
line.
to be 4 inches
dot.
of the
This two-inch,
The
From
lapel
is also'
As
the sleeve
is
Kimona
in
Model
to the elbow,
only neces-
it is
blocks (not cut at the elbow) and place upper portion and underneath portion back to back so they will separate 8 inches at the wrist.
wrist.
Open and
is
applied.
This
Band.
the
is left
Then curve
at
Kimona
Band attached
to the
to show.
Chemise Lining
side, front
and back.
of the Model.
skirt block
(unsprung).
When
taken for the finely plaited skirt measure on the Chemise Waist Line.
according to the prevailing fashions.
the Center front.
Or two
of the
Length
Block from
Back
is
tassel.
of dull gold
Super-Tailored Coat.
Model may
so the
der seam up to the neck line and spread the Front and Back Blocks so they
By doing
Draw
Front and
in
of the
As
Model
Waist Line.
to the Semi-Fit
Back
lines the
of
dotted line
New
Block.
of the material.
a semi-fit,
is
If
more
draw
fullness
is
The Coat
lines
arm
line.
The
line at elbow.
will
Back meas-
in
down
the
This
is
about 26 inches
Back 32 inches
Trimmed
Measure neck
inal
neck
line
and ends.
curved
Draw
line.
line
Draw
on the bottom
of
the
coat.
The
Sleeve.
tailored
flat
Collar.
is
draft
of the
This
lines
to
end points.
a standing collar.
is
the
down
To
up center
Draw
is
straight lines
line
and lYz
of
Draw
inchesi
flared cuff,
with the
exception of the 6-inch point placed center front and center back.
Skirt.
The Back
The
Panels.
hem
is
of the skirt.
of
Sew
One hundred
seventy-three
fell.
Sew
lining
around arm-hole.
Hand-Tailored Points
Diagram
The canvas
1.
in
front
is
hand padded
ibility;
the garment.
to develop proper effect in
2.
front of garment
smoothly.
lie
Lapels are hand padded with small stitches to insure softness and the
3.
proper
roll.
4.
The under
5.
The
collar is carefully
padded by hand
for pliability.
front darts are hand tacked with linen to hold the forepart cor-
on the canvas.
rectly
The
6.
top and front edge of lower pocket are fastened to canvas by hand
to give strength
7.
felled
on
all
in perfect position.
Welts on
all
The
8.
on the
bridle is basted
may hang
9.
to the forepart
and tacked
evenly.
hand with
strength
edge
Tape
is
hand
may remain
11.
The
in a
felled to the
smooth
condition.
is
edge coats to keep the edge firm and to prevent the edge from turning.
12.
The seam
The
flat
in the
and to insure a
facing
is
is
hand tacked
to the canvas to
solid effect.
The
by hand
to
absolutely secure.
15.
The
front
in
with chain stitch to insure a well-fitting armhole and to give ease and
bility
flexi-
16.
The under
collar is put
lie
17.
The under
18.
The
collar is
top collar
hand
felled to the
neck gorge.
is
may
perfectly.
19.
The
20.
hand
is felled
felled.
The
by hand.
facing and top collar are
drawn
together by hand, not only where lapel meets collar but the entire length of
the facing, so that at no point does the top collar overlap the facing.
21.
The buttonholes
22.
The
all
reinforced and
are
hand
The bottom
felled
made by hand.
and tacked by hand. Sleeve
and tacked.
facing of coat
is
One hundred
seventy-five
tailoring
must embody
all
Art of Designing
in the
is
combining two or more colors that are sensitive and becoming vibrations.
The
sensitivity of Color
is
is
in bringing
felt
together two or more colors; easily affected to the right or wrong combina-
tions.
to sensations
when made
of strik-
The mastery
of color
is
a difficult achievement.
Surety
is
by
attained
by
side,
may be
you
in
Orange.
is
For
effect.
It is a
complementary softness
of hues,
yet colorful.
Let sensitiveness
with Cerise
feel the
be combined.
of color
In your selections
feel
your colors as
in the
above
examples.
Do
we must always
As an
the
warm and
correctly.
Harmony
is
mind
and
Art of Lines,
let
of Color is gained
to
all
One
must be used.
as Decoration.
Harmony
which
in these
of color
in Reality.
Woman
use.
it is
many
and natural
the
the
warmth
effects.
The Essence
scintillate
is
of Color
from harmonious
is
effects.
One hundred
sevenly-six
Let
be gradual in
this sense
its
and wrong
of
com-
The
following Color Combinations have been worked out under the laws
of Psychology.
Color Combinations
Art of Combining Colors in Fashions
Cerise and Grey.
one
is
(Direct opposites
(Harmonious combination.)
one
complementary.)
to its
best advantage.)
(Same reason
(A
enough
to dull a
value.
The
blue
com-
brilliant purple.)
Blue.
same
Rules for
all
Pastel Shades.)
Blue.
Yellow and
(Balance of intensity.)
Cerise.
(Middle value
of Quality.)
(Radius.)
(Sameness
of intense colors.)
(An
amount
of black
one
shade containing
of
black.)
(Refinement of colors.
combination of
(A combination used
to avoid
monotony
of other
same
intensity
combinations.)
satisfactory
weak
color.
Combination
in light
and dark).
It
(One
(A
Natural colors
pleasingly combined.)
same
intensity.)
(Coordinating colors.)
hues.)
Rose.
(One predominating
One hundred
seventy-eight
Designer must
know and
It is
rial will
ment
of
The
sensitiveness of treat-
The
Line.
Medium
Classification
Light,
of
Materials.
Medium
(Clustering Lines).
(Indefinite or
Medium Heavy
(Definite Lines).
Mixed Lines).
Poiret Twill, a
3/4
in length
and mixed.
As one
Body
a Satin
of the
Semi-Body
Material would influence Lines like Panel Lines, while the Flexible
Body
Cascades.
is
a big asset.
The
Materials given are classified under the departments of Woolens, Silks, Cot-
new
material
is
created select
its
classification,
Over
cation.
In the Psychology of the use of Materials and the combining of the same,
consider grades.
In designing Models
made
of
two
Work
selection.
Weights
For example:
of Materials.
Medium Heavy
in weight,
materials, build
must be treated
of the process.
is
classified as
By
a recognized
qualifying feature, even though the Designer (or Thinker) has as yet no
One hundred
seventy-nine
feature
may
gestions.
if
Heavy)
an
overbalance
While a
treatment
selection of a
in
Canton
is
on an even
scale.
It is pos-
combine materials of the same value, but they must have a balanced
or relative texture.
You may
take a
a Light
trim in a
Weight
Heavy Weight;
Material.
This
is
or a
Psychology
of Applied Art.
It
must be borne
in
mind that
all
It is
It is
One hundred
eighty
Cottons
Silks
Duvetyn M.L.
Chinchilla Crepe
M.
Drapella M.L.
Jersey M.H.
Silvertone H.
French Serge
M.H.
Mannish Serge M.H.
Tricotine M.
Poiret Twill M.
Gabardine M.
Chiffon Taffeta L.
Brocade H.
Metaltex L.M.
Gold Cloth H.
Taffeta Plaids
Velvets H.
Chiffon Velvet
M.
Brocaded Chiffon
Oxford M.
Linen M.
Georgette L.
Crepe Helene M.L.
Crepe Romaine M.L.
Satin Striped Geor-
Madras M.
Dimities L.
Long Cloth M.
Muslin M.
Soisette
M.
Shepard Plaids M.
Scotch Plaids M.
Paisley H.
Broadcloth H.
Basket Weave M.H.
Felt H.
Brocaded Velvet H.
Salome Velvet L.
Unfinished Worsted
India Silk L.
Nainsook M.
Roshanara Crepe M.
Crepe Knit M.
Krinkle Crepe M.
Cork Screw Crepe
Percale M.
Paisley
M.
Tweeds H.
Homespun H.
M.
Satin M.L.
Silver Cloth
H.
Crepe de Chine L.M.
Pussy Willow Taffeta L.M.
Duchesse Satin H.
Tricolletxe
M.H.
Moire H.
Taffeta Moire L.H.
Printed Crepe de
Chine L.
Brocaded Canton M.
Tussah L.M.
Grosgrain M.
Shantung L.M.
Charmeuse M.
Silk Velour M.
Crepe Morocain
L.M.
Perlaine L.M.
Bengaline M.
PopUn
1,1.
Kumsii Kumse M.
Baronette Satin M.
Satin Sonata M.L.
Fantasie M.
Alpaca M.
Satine M.
La Jerz M.
Broadcloth M.
Faille Silk
Roman
M.
Striped Taf-
feta L.M.
Rajah Silk L.M.
One humiicd
e'ujhty-unc
Chintz M.
Dotted Swiss L.
Poplin M.
Aeroplane Linen M.
Indian
China Silk L.
H.
Velours H.
Flannel M.H.
Nun's Veiling L.
Shallie L.
M.H.
Veilings
Velvetine H.
Organdie L.
Voile L.
Head M.
Batiste L.
Gingham M.
Pique M.
Mohair M.
Duck M.
Cambric M.
L.M.
Chiffon L.
gette M.L.
Flowered Chiffon L.
Printed Chiffon, L.
Paisley Georgette L.
Mulle L.
Tulle L.
Net L.
Moline L.
Paulette Chiffon L.
Peau de Sole L.
Metallic Chiffon
L.M.
Marquisette L.
Tarleton L.
Model
to
which
it is
novelty
is
an
applied; a scheme of
The Ornamentation
that
is
For example:
is
Buckrum
or Willow), so that
sub-
like
it
The Ornamentation
example:
large
bow
that
is
For
The Ornamentation
that
For example
Featuristic or Outlining.
is
Like
Embroideries.
The Ornamentation
that
one
and
of Applied Art.
Or
ior, like
it is
an
article that
Back
of the
The Ornamentation
alized natural.
To
Model
The
For example
Sense.
cutting
away
Lace Medal-
anything to make
etc.;
and coloring.
For example:
and dyeing;
The Ornamentation
For example:
Futuristic or Impressionistic.
is
it
artful.
Making the
For example:
Model with
of different colors.
Convention-
wit:
Designs of
Naturalistic Designs born
Conventional
scrolls, etc.; a
is
Mode
of
Custom.
natural.
The Ornamentation
objects, like Spider
Ornamentation
of
Grotesque
effects.
For example:
Like Weird
Designers
While
sitting
may
in Califor-
on the old
rock wall
button.
top.
noticed a snail
whose
shell
it
popular.
It is
also very Seasonable. Recent Seasons have been for Embroideries and Fringes.
Individuality of Designing
just to suit the Model, then the
is
If the
different.
Model
as a
Ornamentation
designed
is
eration
this version
charm or a necessity
raw
an ornamentation to cover up
edges.
Model
to finish out
saleable.
Sometimes
it
is
The
Classic interpretations
Modern
and Designs.
tions of
Psychology
mentation.
One hundred
eighty-three
as Decoration.
It is for the
With
Designer
relative forma-
Shirring,
Braids,
Tassels,
Furs,
Feathers,
Pom Poms,
Embroideries,
another by trimming).
Brocaded Trimming,
Couching,
Tapestry,
Beads,
Needlepoint,
Puffing,
etc.),
Buttons,
Drawnwork Design,
Quilting,
Spangles,
Sequins,
Fringe,
Pasmenteries^
Fringing,
Jets,
Painting,
Bows,
Knots (French),
Batik,
Wood
Block Prints,
Harem
Rolls,
Prints,
Darts,
Stenciling,
Facings,
Stamping,
Stitches (Designs made by same as
Smocking, etc.).
Stitching (Designs made by same as
Chain Stitch, etc.).
Fagoting (Designs made by con-
Button Holes,
Pockets,
Stripes,
Pieces
(Inlays-Mosaic Effects),
Shells,
Charms (Ivory),
necting stitches).
Crocheting (Designs made by crocheting together),
Picot and Hemstitching,
Ruffles,
Cords,
Belts,
Rosettes,
Chains,
Coils,
Pins (Fancy),
Rings,
Plaques (Solid Designs
Garlands,
Foliage,
Motifs Applied,
made with
Tufts,
Cording,
Sashes,
Binding, Piping,
Scarfs,
Seams,
Berthas,
Braiding,
Fisheaus,
On,'
hundred eighty-four
Weaving,
Webbing,
Fruits and Berries,
Frills,
Eyelets,
Punching,
Pinking,
(Designs
cut open),
One
huiidied eighly-five
Selvage,
Tinsel,
Loops.
all
Index
Page
Face
Full View Face
Profile
19
21
A Three-quarter
View
Corsetiering
......24
of a Thirty-six
Manikins
Small Backs
25
Draft of Sleeve
Sleeve Creations
--.--.--.-.-28
...-....--31
---.--.-..-.33
27
Yoke
Yoke Designing
How to Take Measures
Order
of
Linings
(Two
34
Continued Draft
Creating Ideas
23
Upon Our
-.--.39
36
Center Points
One
41
45
----......51
--.--....--.51
--SS
---------59
..----.-.-.
-----...-.63
---.--.--.
..------..--69
--...-----.-.-73
..........
-.---.-..-.--85
.--...--..-89
.-.----.-.--93
---...-.....
...---.--.-----------
^J^
81
Character of Line
Lines in
Name Only
(Butterfly
97
Kimona)
101
105
Decoration of Line
109
-----------------------..----...
Descendency of Line
French Lingerie (14 Pieces)
Lilliputian Art
The
Tailored
--
...--------.
.--...-...
Creations
(Linear and Aerial Lines)
Fille
US
133
(Children's Clothes)
113
Woman
--.-.-.
....--....
147
153
159
I63
179
176
182
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
1111:1111!
iiiiiiiyiyih'iiiii
111
i!iiiii!!iii!iiliiiiii
iii
!iiiiiiillliiiiiil;uiilii;i