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Princip rada transformatora i transformatorskih aparata za zavarivanje.

Transformator je elektrini ureaj koji transformie energiju iz jednog kola u drugo posredstvom magnetne sprege, bez
ikakvih pokretnih delova. Transformator se sastoji od dva (ili vie) spregnuta namotaja ili jednog namotaja sa vie
izvoda i, u veini sluajeva, magnetnog jezgra koje koncentrie magnetni fluks. Naizmenina struja u jednom
namotaju e indukovati struju u drugim namotajima.
Transformatori se koriste da sputaju ili diu napon, da menjaju impedansu i da obezbede elektrinu izolaciju izmeu
kola.
Najprostiji transformator se sastoji iz dva namotaja - primara i sekundara.

Odnos napona na primaru i sekundaru je direktno proporcionalan (srazmjeran) odnosu broja namotaja:
U1/U2=N1/N2

Gdje je:
U1 - napon na primaru
U2 - napon na sekundaru
N1 - broj namotaja na primaru
N2 - broj namotaja na sekundaru
Dok su struje na primaru i sekundaru obrnuto proporcionalne (srazmjerne) broju namotaja
I1/I2=N2/N1

I1 - struja kroz primar

I2 - struja kroz sekundar
Da bi se omogucilo topljenje elektrode, kroz elektrodu mora proticati "jaka" struja (za 2,5mm elektrode 90-100A)
Da bi se stvorio elektricni luk (koji topi elektrodu) potreban je odredjen napon (sto veci, to je jaci luk), napon opasan
za covjeka je 50V, zato transformator u aparatima za zavarivanje obezbjedjuje smanjenje mreznog napona (220V) na
48V u praznom hodu (kada aparat miruje, sa pocetkom procesa zavarivanja ovaj napon se smanjuje).
Koristeci gore navedene formule, sad cemo izracunati odnose struja i napona na transformatoru u aparatu za
zavarivanje.
U1/U2=N1/N2
I1/I2=N2/N1
Iz ovoga sljedi > U1/U2=I2/I1
U1 je mrezni napon 220V
U2 mora biti 48V
I2 cemo uzeti da mora biti 100A, znaci da samo fali da odredimo struju I1 koju transformator "povlaci" iz mreze.
220V/48V=I2/100A
4,583=I2/100A
I2=100A/4,583
I2=21,81
Naravno ovi proracuni se odnose na idealan transformator, a u praksi se uzimaju u obzir i razni gubitci.
Kako su za razlicite debljine elektroda, a i materijala koji se zavaruje potrebne razlicite struje, mora se napraviti neka
vrsta regulacije.
Dva su osnovna tipa:
1. Regulacija pomicnim jezgrom (jedan dio jezgra transformatora se pomjera i time mjenja karakteristike jezgra,
proracun je malo komplikovan i mislim da bi bilo previse da se tome posvecue previse paznje ovdje)
2. Regulacija izborom broja namotaja na primaru.
Ovaj vid regulacije se izvodi tako sto se pri motanju transformatora na primaru ostave razni izvodi, pa se njihovim
preklapanjem mjenja broj namotaja N1, sto dalje utice na odnos N1/N2, a samim tim i na odnose struja i napona.
I jos da se malo dotaknemo same prakticne konstrukcije.
S obzirom da kroz sekundar teku struje reda 100A, zica kojom se mota sekundar mora biti odgovarajuce debljine.
Profesionalni aparati za zavarivanje se UVIJEK motaju lakiranom bakarnom zicom, dok se za amaterske aparate sve

vise upotrebljava aluminijumska zica u izolacionom plastu.

I jedan i drugi tip namotaja imaju svoje prednosti i mane:
-Prednosti bakra su: Bolji provodnik (manji pad napona, pa samim tim i manje zagrijavanje), Bolje odvodi toplotu
-Mane su mu: Veca cijena, veca masa.
-Prednosti aluminijuma su: Manja cijena, i manja masa
-Dok su mane: Vise se zagrijava, slabije odvodi toplotu (zbog plasta kojim je obavijen.

********************
Video kurs za zavarivanje:
http://www.fulldls.com/torrent-others-884943.html

knjiga:
http://www.fulldls.com/download-ebooks-1853779-Soldering
%2C+Brazing+and+WeldingA+Manual+of+Techniques++Derek+Pritchard.torrent
***********
Konkretno o impedansi (koja se cesto naziva i indukcija jer je uglavnom i cini kalem tj namotaji koje serviseri zovu
prigusnica).
Impedansa ima zadatak da uspori rast struje kod "zavarivanja kratkim spojem" kao i da pruzi tzv akumuliranje struje
za ponovno uspostavljanje luka posle posle kratkog spoja.
Uprosceno:
- pri zavarivanju u rezimu kratkog spoja, zica dodirne osnovni materijal i nastane kratak spoj izmedju zice i materijala.
Tada je napon nula a struja krene da raste do neke velike vrednosti. Porast struje je pracen toplotom koja rastapa i malo
materijala ali i vrh zice koji dira taj materijal. U jednom momentu se rastopljeni vrh zice odvoji u vidu kapljice i padne
u rastopljeno kupatilo, sto je praceno nekim prstanjem (udari kap u kupatilo) i rasprskavanjem (moze sama kap da se
rasprsne) a stvori se prostor tj luk izmedju vrha zice i materijala. Posto dodavac gura zicu, a struja luka je nedovoljna
da je istopi, vrh zice ponovo udara u materijal i pravi kratak spoj... I tako nekih 80-120 kratkih spojeva u sekundi...
Impedansa ima veze sa onim delom "kada zica dodirne materijal, napon pada na 0 a struja raste do neke vrednosti...".
Postavlja se pitanje za koliko vremena ce struja porasti do te vrednosti, dok se kapljica sa vrha zice ne odvoji... To
regulise impedansa tj prigusnica. Ako je impedansa veca, to vreme ce biti vece tj kapljica ce se odvojiti kasnije nego
kada je impedansa mala.
Rezultat, kada se doda impedansa, je sledeci:
- Kapljica se odvaja glatkije, sa manjim prstanjem (kao recimo razlika izmedju kaplice koja bucne na neku povrsinu
vode pa izazove rasprskavanje i recimo da pazljivo pipetom kap iz pipete prenesemo na povrsinu te vode),
- Broj kratkih spojeva je manji (manji broj izvora kratkog spoja znaci manji broj izvora prstanja pa samim tim i
ukupno prstanje),
- Vreme trajanja luka je duze pa je kupatilo fluidnije, tj majstori bi razlivanje je vece,
- Samim tim posto ima vise luka i lice sava je ravnije i glatkije...
- Ima izuzetan znacaj pri zavarivanju cistim CO2 gasom. Ako aparat ima dobro odmerenu impedansu, u krakom spoju
se sasvim lepo i bez prstanja moze zavarivati u cistom CO2 gasu.

- Obrnuto, ako ima mogucnost podesavanja tako da impedansa bude vrlo mala, dobija se kupatilo koje se brzo steze...
Ovo je narocito bitno kod tankih limova (auto limarija)... Recimo da se zicom 1.0 mm moze povuci 50 mm punog sava
na limu 1.0 mm bez progorevanja.
- kada se radi sa zicama 0.6 mm i 0.8 mm velika imedansa nije potrebna jer vec same zice zbog malog precnika imaju
veliku otpornost tj povecavaju impedansu.
- povecanjem impedanse cini se kao da je povecana struja, jer je razlivanje vece a sve je to rezultat da je duze vreme
kada gori luk u odnosu na vreme kratkog spoja kada je luk ugasen...
Kada se radi u spreju, gubi se smisao impedanse tj ima smisla samo pri paljenju luka, tj prvom i jedinom kratkom
spoju, pa je tada treba staviti na minimum.
Jedna od tajni rada sa tankim limovima od prohroma je staviti sto je moguce vecu ili barem prilicno veliku
impedansu... Pa majstor komentarise tada "luk se tesko pali ali se zato lepo razliva..."
Ugradjena prigusnica i uopste tzv "nagib" tj elektricne karakteristike aparata su ono po cemu se neki aparati isticu
medju drugima. Jedni su utrosili silne pare na ispitivanja da bi u 1 sekundi napravili najbolji broj kratkih spojeva (malo
ne valja a mnogo ne valja), ugradili prigusnicu koja daje najglatkije odvajanje kapljice sa sto je moguce manje prstanja
u cistom CO2 gasu za razne precnike zice i razne zice, dosli do najbolje vrednosti struje kratkog spoja kada treba da se
rastopljena kapljica otkine sa vrha zice bez da sama kapljica explodira, odredili najbolju velicinu kapljice koja se
odvaja, pri kojoj najboljoj brzini zice da se to desava, i sve to za sve precnike zice kao i za razne zice od niskolegiranih
do visokolegiranih itd itd. Ovo mogu da rade samo ljudi inzenjeri, strucnjaci za elektromagnetiku i plazmu...
Zbog toga ja ne shvatam ozbiljno "hajde da sam napravim aparat jer imam vremena" ... ili kada neko kopira drugog ne
shvatajuci sta je onaj original u stvari.
Kome treba perfektno zavarivanje, kupice aparat koji je plod razvoja i znanja i koji na probi daje perfektno
zavarivanje. Ja licno uvek probam po nekoliko aparata sa raznim precnicima zica i raznim legurama pa donosim sud.
Inace, u Srbiji retko ko prodaje aparate zna sta je impedansa.
Obicno vole da kazu: "ako okrenes ovamo tu ti je mek luk" Kada ga pitate da li je suprotno "tvrd" luk, i cemu
konkretno sluzi mek a cemu tvrd luk kod ovog precnika ove zice ili onog precnika one zice... pogube se ljudi...

*****************

How-to: Build your own spot welder

posted Jun 23rd 2009 8:30am by Steve Watkins
filed under: how-to, misc hacks, tool hacks

Spot welders are used in the fabrication of automobiles, PC cases, power supplies, microwave ovens, electrical
junction boxes, Faraday cages, and various electronics. A spot welder is used because it produces a highly defined
point of contact weld. The materials are welded without excessive heating, so working pieces are handled easily. The
weld is also highly controlled and repeatable. In this how-to we cover the basics of a spot welder, and then show you
how to build one from a microwave oven transformer.
A spot welders electrodes serve at least three functions. They transfer electrical energy to the material while also
holding it together; this also controls resistance. The greater the pinch force the less the resistance, which results in
decreased resistive heating. A lesser pinch force results in increased resistive heating. The electrodes also conduct heat
away from the material, while in the off cycles, helping to cool and temper the weld. A resistive spot weld is
commonly referred to as a nugget. Spot welders are generally confined to ferrous materials which somewhat limits
their application range. Most produce a weld with low voltage and high current. The welder in this How-to operates
from a secondary of 3vac. The primary is 120vac line voltage that should be treated with respect. The low voltage
secondary makes the welder very safe, so the electrical shock hazard from the electrode is virtually non-existent. There
is however the risk of burn due to the high temperatures as with any welder.
This particular welder is not intended to weld a body panel on your 1966 Jeep; it will not work well on material
heavier than 20gauge sheet metal. The intended use is for small projects, for it is not capable of continuous operation.
Possible uses are as follows: Welding electrode material for electrolysis cells. Working with the fine components of a
vacuum tube. Building a light weight frame for a small robotic platform. Most of us have enough parts laying around
to build a spot welder. If you have a microwave oven transformer (MOT) laying around, then you are half way there.
On a related note, we had covered a microwave oven arc welder in 2006.

We also needed some heavy gauge copper wire. We used about four feet of 4AWG wire to build the spot welder in the
photo. Other materials included scrap 26, 22, two copper screw type lugs, two copper welding cable lugs, two MIG
welder tips, two 4 x 3/4 zinc plated corner braces, drywall screws, and three washers.

Pictured above is a working MOT. The first thing we had to do was remove the secondary coils. Namely the high
voltage winding, and the low voltage winding. We used an angle grinder with cut off wheel while being careful not to
cut the primary winding.

We cut the secondary flush with the MOT laminate core. Both sides of the MOT should be cut. Inspect the MOT for
signs that the laminate has been welded. We have found that welded MOTs can handle a little more abuse than their
sealed only counter parts. If possible try to keep the core insulation intact, where the secondary will be wound. Though
it is not a show stopper if the insulation becomes damaged. The insulation makes it a little easier to wrap the heavy
gauge secondary.

After removal of the secondary we had something that resembles the above photo. If the magnetic shunt material falls
out be sure to replace it as it was before. The shunt keeps the core from transferring too much power to the secondary.
A magnetic ballast if you will. The shunt acts to control the saturation of the core. A brute force project like this relies
on such a shunt for proper operation.

Rewinding a MOT with 4AWG is no walk in the park. If youve damaged the core insulators, we suggest wrapping a
layer of electrical tape in their place. This will help to avoid damaging the insulation on the wire as it is pulled through
the core. Our experience is that 3-4 windings is plenty. After all, this spot welder relies on high current and marginal
resistance. Not high voltage.

We were careful to ensure that the secondary coil was wrapped in a helical manner to complete the secondary.

We mounted the MOT and 22 to the 26 base. This particular build used 12 26 with two 7 22. These dimensions
may or may not work depending on the physical size of your MOT. The only critical part here is keeping the wire
length as short as possible.

After the lower jaw was mounted, we also attached the corner braces. It was found that a spare piece of 22 as a shim
worked well to align the upper and lower jaw. After the upper jaw was aligned we attached it to the corner braces with
screws. This formed the hinged portion of the jaw.

The picture above shows the MIG welder tip and the screw type copper lug. This is an improvement from an earlier
model we had built. Initially, we used copper tubing with a hole and a piece of 6AWG grounding wire serving as the
welding electrode. The grounding wire was held in place by a screw that threaded inside the copper tube perpendicular
to the electrode. It was very crude, but it worked. This new method is much more practical.

Here are the two electrodes ready to be fixed to the lower and upper jaws. We double checked the MIG electrodes to
make sure they were tight. A loose connection will take heat away from the weld nugget.

Evenly aligning the welding electrodes, we were careful to keep the upper jaw in the natural position where it was
mounted. This maintained a flat contact area for the welding electrodes. After we were sure that the electrodes had
been properly aligned, the jaws were marked. We then drilled a small hole. Since we mounted with the grain of the
22 the holes helped to protect from splitting the 22.

With the electrodes mounted, we cut the wire to proper length. We never cut the exact amount we need. We always cut
more than we need. This rule of thumb should apply to all electrical wiring. After all it is much easier to cut off excess
than wrap a new secondary.

We bent the wires in to the approximate positions in which they were to be assembled and stripped the wire in
preparation for the crimp type welding lugs. It is a good idea to strip more than is needed here as well. Simply cut off
excess after sizing up the lugs depth. Never crimp insulation with the lug. This will create a potential problem area due
to the loss of conduction.

Using a good non insulation crimp tool to secure the wire. We inspected the crimp and gave it the tug test. Simply tug
on the wire if it is loose it will pull out. It if doesnt pull out then an adequate crimp suitable for high current has been
made.

The crimped wires were attached to the welding electrodes with screws. We were careful not to over tighten the
screws. If a drywall screw had stripped out of the wood, we would have had to use a larger wood screw in its place.
After both welding electrodes were fixed to the jaws, we aligned the electrodes. Using pliers we bent the electrodes so
that they contacted each other evenly. The electrodes should be fairly close already since they were aligned before
drilling.

We opened the jaws and wired the primary to an electrical cord and then tested the secondary. If the breaker trips,
check for the following:
1.
2.
3.
4.

The secondary is shorted (the jaws are closed)

The magnetic shunts are missing or not properly reinstalled
Faulty line wiring to primary or shorted primary
Too much load on the circuit of test or undersized breaker

We observed proper electrical wiring practices. It is also stressed that this is a welder and it should have a dedicated
circuit as any other welder would have.

With the power physically disconnected we verified the welding electrode alignment with the material we intended to
work on. Before connecting the power and performing an initial weld, we observed a few safety guidelines. This is a
welder and will produce very high temperatures. Keep fingers away from the welding electrodes. Allow the material to

cool prior to handling. Always wear eye protection. You may be interested in reading about spot welder parameters.
Theres also the problem of combustible materials

This Compaq used very thin aluminum to support the screen and connect the hinges. The metal broke and destroyed
most of the lower plastic. We were able to make new supports from 22AWG stainless steel sheet metal. All the welds
were made using the spot welder with a special power controller. The power controller will be covered in another howto.