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Pooothia et al./VIII: Special Ediition: 1: 2017//51 - 57
Volume VIII:
V Special Edition:
E 1: 20117 [51 - 57] [ISSN 0975
5 - 6272]
[www.essen
nce-journal.coom]

Design
ning and styling off Poncho’ss with Ka
alamkari Motifs
M

Poothiaa, Suvritti1; Juneja, Shaalini2 and Raastogi, Shiv

vi3

Receiveed: June 05, 2016  Acccepted: Juuly 17, 2017

7  Online: August 20, 2017

Abstract Introduction
In this study, inveestigator hass tried to giive a A Poncho (symbol
( of Mexican) is an outerr
new loook to Ponchho inspired from Kalam mkari garment
g dessigned to kkeep the bo ody warm.
motifs. Purpose off study was to t come up with Poncho
P is a piece of cloothing that is
i used as a
a designn solution that
t appealeed to youngger’s coat
c and thaat is made of a singlle piece off
taste as well as theeir pockets. Main aim ofo the cloth
c or plasstic with a hhole in the middle
m for a
study was
w to Desiign and Styyle of Ponccho’s person’s
p heead to goo through. Alternate
with Kalamkari
K m
motifs. Thee present study
s Ponchos
P aree now desiggned as fash hion items.
was connducted in Banasthali Universityy. To They
T are deesigned to look fashio onable andd
achievee this is a feew interventtions were made
m provide
p warrmth while remaining breathable
in the design proccess.The coonsumer suurvey and
a comfortable, ratherr than to warrd off windd
was doone for chhecking thee awarenesss of and
a rain. These are ofteen made outt of wool orr
responddents for Indian Kalaamkari painnting yarn,
y knitteed or croccheted. Pon nchos withh
and Pooncho’s. For this purppose, Kalam mkari festive
fe designs or collors can be b worn att
motifs were colleected and selected
s forr the sp
pecial evennts as well.
present study. Theen, design sheets with most Consumer
C i
increasinglyy demands variety inn
preferreed motifs were developedd and clothing
c & fabric, therefore innovative
evaluateed by 100 responndents. Finnally change
c in designing & designing techniques
selectedd designss were evolved into are
a need of the t hour. K Kalamkari iss an ancientt
prototyppes. The developed
d p
prototypes were In
ndian art thhat originaated about 3000
3 years
assessedd with resppect to diffeerent parammeters ago.
a It derivves its namee from Kalamm meaning
such as aesthetic apppeal, cost and uniquenness. Pen,
P and Kaari meaningg work, liteerally Pen-
work.
w
The
T Kalamkkari art incluudes both, printing
p andd
For Correspondence: painting.
p Thhe colors uused in maaking these
Home Science
S Departmment, Clothing and Textile paintings
p aree organic. MMost of thee colors are
Banasthhali University, Rajasthan
Email: suvritti1302@g
s gmail.com
prepared
p usiing parts off plants – rooots, leaves
along
a with mineral
m saltts of iron, tin,
t copper,

51 
 Poothia et al./VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/51 - 57
alum, etc., which are used as mordants. There
are numerous forms and styles of this type of
painting throughout the Indian
subcontinent.The creation of a Kalamkari
product is a time consuming, meticulous
process wherein the fabric can undergo up to
20 washing processes before all dyes are
applied to complete the design. Needless to
say, Kalamkari’s outstanding characteristic is
the fine details and colors of its intricate hand
drawn pen work. Motifs drawn in Kalamkari
spans from flowers, peacock, paisley to
divine characters of Hindu epics like
Mahabharata and Ramayana. Nowadays, this
art is primarily done to create Kalamkari
sarees.
Traditional art is an art which is originated
from the past time &eventually as the fashion
is changing at every second today, the
tradition art is losing its identity. As
Kalamkari being an art done with the help of
kalam, in the study it is done with the
modified enrichment techniques i.e. Block
printing, applique work, embroidery work
(running stitch), zari work. Hence, as attempt
has been made by researcher through this
study to bring something new & also help the
people in restoring the beauty of the tradition
whether in the art or else with respect to
changing fashion.
Now a day, we are bound to get confused
among the distinctive range of adolescent
girl’s attire. Various different works is done
on adolescent girl’s attire which gives them a
pleasant look.
Consumers are becoming more fashion
conscious, more sophisticated and more
active for clothing & accessories. They
expect something new, something in tune
with expectation from world and societies.
Methodology
This work is a part of a master thesis in
Clothing and Textiles. The study was
conducted in BanasthaliUniversity, because
of the ease of approachability for the
researcher. Total 100 respondents were
selected randomly in which 95 were students
of adolescent age group (18-22 years) and 5
were faculty members to find consumer’s
preference, to assess and select developed
designs and to find out acceptability of
developed designed Poncho’s with
Kalamkari motifs. These respondents were
selected purposively who have knowledge of
apparel designing and latest fashion trends. A
Self–structured questionnaire was prepared to
collect information about consumer’s attitude
toward Poncho’s with Kalamkari motifs.
Total 30 design sheet were prepared for
Poncho’s with the selected motifs and
arranging them in different pattern such as
random, border, horizontal, allover and
diagonal arrangement and then the designed
sheets were evaluated and after evaluation
data was collected. Assessment of sheets
were by 5 point rating scale i.e. 5-excellent,
4-very good, 3-good, 2- average and 1- fair.
Best preferred 5 prototypes were developed
for Poncho’s by using selected motifs. Khadi
silk blend fabric was selected purposively for
the construction of Poncho’s. The selected
Poncho’s were cut and stitched according to
the design by the researcher. Researcher
traced selected motifs with the help of tracing
paper on stitched Poncho’s for different
techniques such as embroidery, applique
work, zari work. As per traced motifs,
52 
 Poothia et al./VIII: Special Edition: 1: 2017/51 - 57

researcher did embroidery by herself. “PONCHO’S” and 14% were among those
Suheb’s creation, Jaipur was allocated for who were not aware.
applique work and Tehleen Boutique, Jaipur S. No. Factors Percentage (%)
1 PRICE 4
assigned for Zari work. For block sample,
2 GENERAL 30
blocks were given to workers in Sanganer, APPEARANCE
3 FASHION 38
Jaipur toprepare as per selected design. After 4 QUALITY 28
receiving blocks, then printing was done in Table 2: Distribution of factors considered while
the dyeing and printing laboratory of clothing selecting the “PONCHO’S”

and textile department, Banasthali
University. For Original work of Kalamkari
on 5th prototype, the poncho was given to the
owner of a Kalamkari unit, Chittoor(Andhra
Pradesh). The researcher traced the workers
of Kalamkari for her work at Delhi Haat fate,
New Delhi. Researcher completed costing of
all 5 prototypes according to expenses
incurred in capital & services (i.e.
development, construction & finishing).
All the prototypes were displayed to the
The above table shows that the 4% of
respondents are considering the price factor
while purchasing the Ponchos, 30%
respondents consider the general appearance
factor, 38% respondents consider the fashion
factor and 28% of them consider the quality
factor while purchasing the Ponchos.
S. No. Fabric Percentage (%)
1 Particular Fabric 33
2 According to Ponchos 67
Table 3: Distribution of the respondentpreference of
fabric for “PONCHOS”

respondents and evaluation was done on the The above table depicts that majority of the
basis of 3 parameters i.e. uniqueness, cost respondents preferred to purchase fabric
and aesthetic appeal. Total 100 respondents according to ponchos and only 33% preferred
were taken for data collection. Five point a particular fabric.
rating scale was used for evaluation and S. No. Length of ponchos Percentage (%)
weighted mean score was calculated for each 1 SHORT 23
2 MEDIUM 63
prototype.
3 LONG 14
Results and discussion Table 4: Distribution of respondent preferencesfor
different length of “PONCHOS”
Results of preliminary consumer survey
It was necessary to conduct consumer The above tableshows that 63% respondent
survey to determine the preferences and preferred medium length of the Ponchos,
needs of the consumers in respect of various 23% respondent preferredshort length and
parameters related to Ponchos. The results 14% respondents liked to wear long length of
are given in detail: Ponchos.
S. No. Awareness Percentage (%) S. No. Awareness Percentage (%)
1 YES 86 1 YES 65
2 NO 14 2 NO 35
Table 1: Distribution of respondents based on Table 5: Distribution of respondents based on
awareness about the term “PONCHO’S” awareness about the term “KALAMKARI”

The above table reveals that 86% of the The above table reveals that the majority of
respondents were aware of the term the respondents know about the term

53 
 Pooothia et al./VIII: Special Ediition: 1: 2017//51 - 57

KALAM MKARI (65%)

( and only 35% embellishme
e ent but 39%
% of responndents were
responddents didnoot know about
a anytthing among
a thosee who don’’t want emb
bellishmentt
about KALAMKA
K ARI. on
o Ponchos.
S. No. Attractive loook Percentage
P S. No. Typee of embellishm
ment Perceentage
1 YES 61 1 SEQUENCE 30
2 NO
O 39 2 MIRROR 13
3 FAABRIC GLITT TER 30
Table 6:: Distribution of respondeents based onn 4 BEADS 27
attractive look of “KALAMKAR
“ RI” motif onn Table
T 9: Disttribution of rrespondents based
b on
“PONCHO OS” prreference of typpe of embellishhment

The abbove table depicts that the 61% % of The

T above table
t revealls that majo
ority of the
responddents opineed that Kalamkari
K m
motif reespondents like sequeence and faabric glitterr
would give attracctive look to Poncho and (3
30%) and 27% resppondents lik ked beads.
only 399% were am mong those who responded Only
O 13% respondennts preferrred mirrorr
that theese motifs will
w not givee attractive look work.
w
on Poncchos. S. No. Prefeerence Perceentage
S. No. Preferencce Perrcentage 1 YES 84
2 NO 16
1 YEES 69
2 NOO 31 Table
T 10: Disstribution of respondents based
b on
prreference of KALAMKARII motif with different
Table 7:: Distribution of respondeents based onn
teechnique on Ponchos
P will turn on the field of
preferencee of Ponchos with
w KALAMKKARI motif byy
designing
different techniques
t
The
T above table depiccts that 84 4% of the
The tabble shows that 69% of responddents
reespondents agreed froom the stateement that
preferreed differennt techniquees on Ponnchos
KALAMKA
K ARI motiffs with different
with KALAMK KARI mottif but 31%
teechniques on
o Ponchos will turn on n the field
responddents respoonded that these willl not
of
o designingg but 16% diid not agreee.
prefer Ponchos
P witth KALAM MKARI mottif by
differennt techniquees. Preference
P of design sh
heets
S. No. Preferencce Perrcentage Evaluation
E o design shheets was affected
of a byy
1 YEES 61 consumer
c prreferences aand experien
nce. On the
2 NOO 39
basis
b of questionnaire, 30 design sheets
s were
Table 8:: Distribution of respondeents based onn
preferencee of embellishhment on “PO
ONCHOS” withh prepared
p annd assessed by consum mer on the
KALAMK KARI motif basis
b of five points sccale. Finally
y best five
The abbove tablee depicts that 61%
% of designs
d weere selecteed to dev velop into
responddents preeferred P
Ponchos with prototype
p as shown in ggraph.

54 
 Pooothia et al./VIII: Special Ediition: 1: 2017//51 - 57

The aboove graph depicts

d thatt most prefeerred heet no. 300(4.30) got 4th preferen
sh nce and lastt
design sheet
s was design
d no. 13(4.38). Neext in in
n order wass design sheeet no. 10(4..27).
order of
o preferennce was deesign sheett no. Assessment
A of Devveloped Prototypes
P
14(4.333) &desiggn sheet no. 17(44.32) Developed
D prototypes were evaaluated byy
respectiively. Theree was not much
m differrence reespondents on the bassis of aestheetic appeal,
in scoree of design sheet no. 14
1 &17. Deesign uniqueness
u a estimateed cost.
and

Aestthetic A
Appeal
5

4.5
SCORE

Aestheetic …
4

3.5
P1 P2 PROTP3
OTYPES P4 P5

The abbove graph shows thaat prototypee no. preference.

p Not much difference was foundd
4(3.46) was rated first in terrms of aesthetic in
n weightedd mean scorre of proto otype no. 3
appeal, next preferred prototype
p was and
a prototyppe no. 1, w when aesthetic appeal
prototyppe no. 2 (44.57), and prototype
p n 3
no. was
w evaluatted. Prototyype no. 5((4.20) was
(4.39) and
a prototyype no. 1 (4.36)
( got third leeast preferreed respectivvely.

U
Uniquen
ness
4.6
SCORE

4.4
4.2
4 Uniqu
ueness
P1 P2 P3 P4
P P5
PRO
OTOTYPES

The abbove graphh in terms of uniqueeness prototype

p noo. 2(4.47) wwhich was ranked
r 2nd,
reveals that protottype no. 4(44.57) was given
g prototype
p noo. 3(4.44) ranked 3rd, prototype
highest preferencee as it got maximum
m s
score no.
n 5(4.38) ranked
r 4th aand then pro
ototype no.
st th
and rannked 1 . Neext preferredd prototypee was 1(4.32) rankked 5 respeectively.

Cost
ESTIMATED COST IN 
ESTIMATED COST IN

2
1
PERCENT

0 Cost
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
PROTOTYPEES

55 
 Pooothia et al./VIII: Special Ediition: 1: 2017//51 - 57

The above graph depicts thaat prototypee no. raanked 2nd, prototype
p nno. 5(1.15) was
w rankedd
rd
2(1.36) was given highest preference as it i got 3 , prototyppe no. 4(1.11) was rank ked 4th andd
st
maximuum score and a rankedd 1 . Not morem laast preferennce was giiven to proototype no.
differennce in prototype no. 1(11.34) whichh was 3(1.02)
3

O
OVERAL
LL ACCEEPTABILIITY
WEIGHTED MEAN 

4
2
SCORE

0 OVERA
ALL ACCEPTAB
BILITY
P1 P2 P3 P4 P
P5
PROTOTY
YPES

The above graph reveals thaat prototypee no. Conclusion

C
2(3.46) and protottype no. 4(33.46) was given
g Through
T thhis work, an ancient art off
highest preferencce as it got maxim mum Kalamkari
K was reviveed by evo olving new w
weighteed mean sccore which was rankedd 1st. designs
d of poncho’s
p w
which could satisfy the
Next prreferred proototype waas prototypee no. consumer
c n
needs and market trrends. The
1(3.34) which wass ranked 2nd n
, prototypee no. designed
d prooducts weree an amalg gamation off
3(3.28) was rankked 3rd andd prototypee no. trrends with tradition bbut tried to o keep the
5(3.24) was rankedd 4th respecttively. essence
e of thhe art intactt. So, it wass concludedd
Summaary from
fr the stuudy that thee developed d Poncho’s
A survvey was conducted to find out were
w liked by majorityy of the reespondents.
consummers preferennce towards the Khadii silk They
T were ready
r to addd these desig gns in theirr
Ponchoo’s and Kalaamkari mottifs with surrface wardrobe.
w A
Also the iddea of bringing aboutt
enrichmment techniiques like block prinnting, in
nnovation in Kalam mkari with h differentt
zari woork, embroiddery work, applique work.
w teechniques can
c bring unniqueness in n designing
On thee basis of consumer preferences
p s, 30 of
o Ponchos. It was ffound that design off
design sheets weere developped with most Poncho’s
P w
were accepteed by conssumers andd
preferreed Kalamkaari motifs. To
T evaluatee, the suuccessfullyy incorporaated in thee field off
design sheets weree assessed on
o 5 point raating designing
d too create neww looks. 
scale. Out
O of theese, 5 desiggn sheets were References
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Ponchoo’s was judgged by 100 respondentts on Visuaalization. A
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uniquenness.
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