Moisture Comfort - TXL750 PDF

Clothing Comfort
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Introduction to Clothing Comfort
ØNeed and Selection of Clothing

ØBasic elements of clothing comfort
o Four basic elements
ØClothing Comfort and Wearer’s
Attitude
ØHuman-Clothing Interactions
ØUnderstanding Clothing Comfort
Psychology and Comfort
ØPsycho-physiological Factors of Clothing

Comfort
ØPsychophysics and Clothing Comfort
ØWear Trial Techniques
Ø Psychological Aspects of Aesthetic Comfort

Neurophysiological Processes in Clothing Comfort
Neurophysiological Perceptions
Sensory system of human skin
Nerve endings in human skin
Mechanical and Thermal Receptors

Sensations related to mechanical stimuli
Sensations related to thermal stimuli
Sensations related to humidity stimuli
Sensory Perceptions of Human Body

Transmission of neurophysiological sensations
Physiological Requirements of the Human Body

Metabolic heat and body temperature
Metabolic heat loss and sweating
Tactile Aspects of Clothing Comfort
Tactile Comfort Sensations
Human tactile responses
Tactile characteristics of clothing
Fabric Handle Attributes for Expressing Tactile Comfort
Assessment of Fabric Handle Characteristics

Subjective assessment
Objective assessment
-KESF and FAST methods
- Nozzle extraction principle
Fabric Parameters Affecting Tactile Sensation

Thermal Transmission
- Thermo-regulation in Human Body

- Thermal Distress
- Thermoregulation through Clothing System
- Thermal Comfort of Clothing
Heat exchange through clothing
- Transient Heat Flow and Warm-cool Touch of Fabrics

-Measurement of Thermal Transmission Characteristics
- Parameters for Expressing Thermal Characteristics
Met, Clo, tog etc.
- Thermal Transmission Characteristics of Fabrics

Moisture Transmission
and
Clothing Comfort
8
Introduction
n Perspiration from human body
transmits through the clothing
to the atmosphere in two forms,
q Liquid (sensible)
q Vapour (insensible)
n Transmission in Liquid form

involves two stages
q Wetting (initial process) and
Wicking
Transmission in Vapour form involves four principles
üDiffusion
üAbsorption-desorption
üAdsorption-transmission
üConvection 9
Sweat Rate
10
Sweat Rate
üThe volume of water lost in sweat daily is highly
variable, ranging from 100 to 8,000 mL/day.
üExercise simulation, walking, running or

bicycling, to induce the SRmax was conducted in a
hot climatic chamber or in the desert.
ü The SR max due to marathon running were 1,000

to 1,200 g/h in the cold season and 1,500 to 2,000
g/h in the hot season.
11
Factors Affecting the Moisture
Transmission
n Factors affecting the moisture transmission
through textiles are
q Moisture content of the fabric
q Type and structure of material used
q Perspiration rate
q Atmospheric conditions (humidity,

temperature and wind speed)
12
Principles of Transmission through
Clothing
n In normal activity level, the metabolic heat
produced by the body is transferred to the
atmosphere by
q Conduction, Convection and Radiation; and
q Vapour form of perspiration
n In high activity level, the production of heat is high,

which causes the body to sweat in liquid form
13
Metabolic rate and environmental temperature in a fasting dressed human at rest.
The wet and the dry heat loss, as well as the metabolic heat and the basal
metabolic rate (BMR) is measured in Watts. 14
Comfort and Discomfort Sensations
Moisture Accumulation
in microclimate and
Perspiration in Liquid &
Fabric Layer
Perspiration in Liquid &

Vapour Form
Vapour Form
Moisture Build up &

Heat Stress ?
Human Atmosphere
Body Human Atmosphere
Body Human Atmosphere
Produced Perspiration Body
passes through the Produced Perspiration
clothing results in does not pass through Moisture Accumulation
the clothing completely results in
‘Comfort’ ‘Discomfort’
A clear understanding of the role of moisture transmission

through clothing is required
15
Sense of comfort
§material absorbs sweat and moisture well

§material disperses moisture to the open air well }
Humidity in the skin-clothing
layer remains low
Sense of coldness
§ material absorbs moisture and sweat well

§ material disperses moisture poorly
} Cotton
Warmth is lost rapidly
Sense of dampness
§ material absorbs moisture and sweat poorly

§ sweat and moisture remains in the micro-space
} Polyester
between skin and clothing

Humidity is high
16
Clothing results in a bad microclimate (Dampness)
100 % Normal Polyester
17
Clothing results in a bad microclimate (Coldness)
100 % normal cotton
18
Clothing results in a good microclimate
100 % special shaped Polyester
19
üLiquid Water Transmission
üMoisture Vapour Transmission
20
Liquid Water Transfer: Wicking and
Water Absorption
n Liquid water transmission through clothing
primarily depends on fibre properties
q Fibre–Water molecular attraction
Which is decided by the Surface tension
n Capillary pore distribution – Structure of
Yarns and fabrics
n Liquid water transfer takes place in 2 stages

q 1st Stage: Wetting (Initial Process)
q 2nd Stage: Wicking
21
Contact Angle & Young’s Equation
22
Liquid Water Transfer through Textiles: Wetting
q It involves in fluid spreading, where fibre-air interface is replaced
with fibre-liquid interface
Young’s Equation
q Forces acting at a solid-liquid boundary under equilibrium is

γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ
q Where, γ represents the tension at the interface between the
various combinations of solid (S) (i.e. fibre), liquid (L) and
vapour (V)
q θ is the contact angle between the liquid drop and the surface of
the solid to be wetted (Low contact angle means high
wettability) 23
Wetting
Wettability increases when surface tension (γSL) and
contact angle (θ) decreases,
γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ
γSL ↓ ~ θ ↓
1st Phase: Wetting

24
Factors Affecting Wettability
n Surface tension (γSL) reduces (means higher wettability)
with
q Increase in temperature of the liquid
q Decrease in density and viscosity of liquid
n Contact angle reduces (means higher wettability) with

q Rougher the surface of the fabric, faster the
spreading of water, due to the troughs offered by the

rough surface reduces the apparent wetting angle
n Wettability also depends on the chemical nature of fibres
– higher hydrophilicity means higher wettability
n Fibre roundness and diameter ↓ ~ θ ↓ ~ cosθ ↑ ~
Surface wettability increases
q Finer fibres or fibres with shaped cross-section
have higher wettability 25

Liquid Water Transfer through Textiles: Wicking
n Wicking
q Liquid wets the fibre
q It reaches the interspaces of the fibre
q Produces capillary pressure
q By this pressure, the liquid is dragged along the capillary
due to the curvature of the meniscus in the narrow confines
of the pores
q The magnitude of the pressure (P) is given by Laplace
equation,
q Where, γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ
n P is the capillary pressure developed in a capillary

tube of radius Rc 26
Liquid Transfer Process through a Porous Media
The magnitude of the capillary pressure through a channel is

given by the Laplace equation,
P = g LV cos q´ y θ ↓ ~ cosθ ↑ ~ P ↑
Perimeter of the capillary

where, ψ = = (2π Rc/π Rc2 ) = 2/Rc
Area of the capillary
So,
2nd Phase: Capillary Wicking 27

P = g LV cos q´ y
Where, P is the capillary pressure developed in the channel when the liquid enters in it,
θ is the contact angle between the liquid drop and fibre surface, and
g LV is the resultant surface tension between liquid-vapour interface
[γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ]
qFor a particular liquid, at constant pressure

and temperature, the surface tension at liquid -
vapour interface ( g LV ) is constant regardless
whether or not the surface area is being changed
qAs the fibre cross sectional shape

and fibre type change the contact
angle get changed which alters the P
value
P = g LV cos q´ y
üThe amount of water that wicks through the channel is

directly proportional to the pressure gradient (P)
üThe capillary pressure (P) increases as the surface tension in
the solid-liquid interface decreases [γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ] and
the capillary radius decrease

Liquid Transfer Process in Horizontal Direction
n The distance travelled by a liquid flowing under

capillary pressure, in horizontal capillaries, is
given by the Washburn-Lukas equation
n Where,
q L is the distance travelled in horizontal capillary in time t,
and
q η is the viscosity of the liquid.
30
Studies on Wicking of Liquid in
Textile Material
31
Studies on Wicking of Liquid in Textile Material
Effect of Presence of Hydrophilic Fibre in Blend
32
Effect of viscose proportion on vertical wicking of fabric (At 1 min)
üWith the increase in

viscose proportion,
wicking height along the
warp and weft directions of
the fabric reduces.
üThis behaviour can be

explained by absorption
and wicking phenomena.
üViscose is a highly hydrophilic fibre; it has a good
absorbency but due to its high affinity to water when
water molecule reaches in the capillary and forms bond
with the absorbing group of the fibre molecules.
üThis inhibits the capillary flow along the channel formed by the fibre
surfaces
33 .
Effect of Fibre Diameter and Cross Sectional

Shape on
Moisture Transmission Behavior through Fabrics
34
Materials SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT
Following variables were taken to design the experiment -
n Fibre cross-section (Poly) – Circular, Triangular and

Trilobal
n Fibre denier (Poly) – dpf – 4.72 and 0.85
Polyester filaments with the above specifications and

same total linear density have been used to see the effect
of fibre shape and fibre diameter. The polyester yarns
have been used only in the weft direction of the woven
fabric.
35
Effect of FIBRE DIAMETER
Polyester Multifilament Normal Denier, Micro Denier
Number of filament - 32, dpf – 4.72 Number of filament - 200, dpf – 0.85
36
Effect of FIBRE PROFILE
Polyester Multifilament Circular, Triangular, Trilobal
Number of filament - 32, dpf – 4.72
Shape Factor- 1, 1.156, 1.271
37
Fabric Parameters
Cross- Fibre Warp Weft Fabric Fabric
Sample Ends Picks Fabric
sectional fineness count count wt Thickness
Name /dm /dm cover
shape (dtex) (Tex) (Tex) (g/m2) (mm)
Trilobal Trilobal 5.24 36.92 16.84 358 174 0.8317 184.03 1.01
Triangula Triangul
5.24 36.92 16.84 365 181 0.8451 188.47 1.04
r ar
Circular Circular 5.24 36.92 17.11 360 178 0.8361 193.83 1.05
Microden
Irregular 0.93 36.92 18.62 370 186 0.8571 207.33 1.05
ier
38
Effect of fibre diameter
30
12
24
Water uptake (g)
Height reached by water (cm)

18 9
12 Microdenier 6
Normal-circular
6
Microdenier
3
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Normal-circular
0
Time (min) 0 2 4 6 8 10 12
Time (min)
In-plane wicking test Vertical wicking test

39
Effect of fibre shape factor
Vertical wicking test
10
7
Height of water reached (cm)

Height reached by water (cm)
8 y = 2.505x + 2.6848
6 R2 = 0.827
6 Trilobal 5
y = 2.8715x + 0.2793
4
4 R2 = 0.9492
Triangular
3 3 min
2
1 min
Circular 2
0 0.9 1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4
0 5 10 15
Time (min) Poly. Shape factor
(Trilobal)
Poly.
(Triangula
r)
Poly.
40
(Circular)
Effect of fibre shape factor

In-plane wicking test
30
23
y = 10.459x + 6.199
Water uptake (g)

2
R = 0.8636
Water uptake (g)
20 17
Trilobal
3 min 1 min
y = 3.8175x + 3.7449
10 Triangular 11 2
R = 0.9985
Circular
0 5
0 2 4 6 0.9 1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4
Time (min) Poly.
(Trilobal) Shape factor
Poly.
(Triangular
)
Poly.
41 (Circular)
Conclusions
Ø With increase in fibre shape factor wickability

of fabric increases
Ø With decrease in fibre diameter wickability of the

fabric increases, as the number of capillaries
increases along with reduction in capillary
radius (Rc)
42
Study on the fabric construction
parameters on Wicking properties of
high activity knitted sportswear
43
Fabric structure
All samples were knitted structures made up of PET

filament having non-circular cross section.
Microscopic observations of fabric structure show that

the majority of the fabrics are inlerlock structures.
Some of the fabric samples (S3, S4, S5 and T5) are of plaited
constructions which are knitted by using two sets of yarns
with different deniers and shape factors.
Samples T6 and S6 are two layer fabrics. It was found

that inner and outer layers were made up of same
filament.
44
Details of fabric samples
Sample code. Fibre Fabric Fibre Shape Filament Yarn
type structure cross factor linear linear
sectional density density
shape denier denier
T1 PET Interlock Elliptical 1.087 1.50 85.5
T4 PET Interlock Hexagonal , 1.053, 0.80, 165
Triangular 1.095 4.90 177
S1 PET Interlock Hexagonal 1.054 1.50 96.9
S2 PET Interlock Hexagonal 1.055 1.40 83.5
S3 PET Plain plaited Flat , 1.240, 1.34, 53.3,
Hexagonal 1.047 0.84 166
S4 PET Float plaited Flat, 1.240, 1.34, 53.3,
2/1 Hexagonal 1.047 0.84 166
S5 PET Float plaited Hexagonal, 1.072, 1.50, 61,
1/1 near 1.021 1.00 170
circular
T5 PET Float plaited Hexagonal, 1.065, 1.50 85.2,
2/2 Elliptical 1.087 1.50 245
T6 PET 2 layer Hexagonal 1.054 1.20 77 45
Fabric structure
Figure 1. Microscopic images and

structure of interlock fabrics
structure of float plaited fabrics

structure of plain plaited fabrics
46
Figure 5. SEM images
filament cross section
ofFibre
tennis t-shirts
cross Shape factor
Fibre cross section
(series T)
sectional
shape
Elliptical 1.087
Elliptical 1.096
Elliptical 1.083
Hexagonal , 1.053,
Triangular 1.095
Hexagonal 1.054
Hexagonal 1.055
Flat , 1.240,
Hexagonal 1.047
Flat, Hexagonal 1.240,
1.047
Hexagonal, 1.072,
near circular 1.021
Hexagonal, 1.065,
Elliptical 1.087
Hexagonal 1.054
47
Hexagonal 1.055
Fibre cross Shape factor
sectional
shape
Elliptical 1.087
Elliptical 1.096
Elliptical 1.083
Hexagonal , 1.053,
Triangular 1.095
Hexagonal 1.054
Hexagonal 1.055
Flat , 1.240,
Hexagonal 1.047
Flat, Hexagonal 1.240,
1.047
Hexagonal, 1.072,
near circular 1.021
Hexagonal, 1.065,
Elliptical 1.087
Hexagonal 1.054
Hexagonal 1.055
Figure6. SEM images filament cross section of
Soccer t-shirts (series S)
48
Table 2. Properties of fabric samples
Sample code Fabric mass Fabric Fabric Porosity Wpi Cpi Vertical wicking height Time for Specific
per unit area Thickn cm horizontal wicking absorbent
g/m2 ess Sec capacity
mm
Walewise Coursewise
T1 168 0.500 75.82 48 56 11.1 10.3 60 2.36
T2 167 0.490 75.47 46 53 11.5 10 52 2.47
T3 156 0.520 78.41 46 54 9.9 9 54 3.26
T4 206 0.600 75.29 35 33 10.35 8.8 59 2.47
S1 157 0.480 76.46 48 53 6.8 6.2 63 2.55
S2 154 0.480 76.91 41 58 8 6 73 3.16
S3 182 0.516 74.61 33 50 11.1 10.8 62 2.46
S4 186 0.572 76.60 33 50 7.8 9.1 49 2.59
S5 136 0.419 76.64 46 46 7.5 8.6 42 1.77
T5 147 0.610 82.66 35 35 9 9 42 2.82
T6 184 0.812 83.69 44 66 6.3 6.5 89 3.33
S6 139 0.600 83.33 40 42 9.1 9 49 2.88
49
Vertical wicking
The red path defines one course

Wale wise wicking was
found to be more than
course wise wicking for
all the interlock fabrics.
Wicking height was
observed more for
samples having elliptical
cross section of filament
with high shape factor.
Wale-wise and course-wise vertical

wicking characteristics of interlock
fabrics 50
Vertical wicking
For float plaited, course
wise wicking was found to
be similar or higher than
wale wise wicking.
In float plaited samples

(S4, S5 and T5) the
sample S4 with maximum
shape factor show
highest wicking height
which is due to high
specific surface area.
Among two-layer fabrics,

sample S6 with fine
Wale-wise and course-wise
filament denier have
vertical wicking characteristics of
higher wicking as plaited fabrics
compared to other. 51
In-plane wicking
In-plane wicking took place in pattern of ellipse

for interlock fabric – due to difference in course
and wale wicking
The samples with elliptical cross section fibres

took less time to wick same distance as
compared to samples with hexagonal cross
section due to higher surface area offered by
them.
52
In-plane wicking characteristics
of plaited fabrics In-plane wicking
characteristics of 2 layer
fabrics 53
Absorbency
Absorbency characteristics of
interlock fabrics
Absorption capacity of all fabric
samples is high and saturation
completes in a few seconds.
Sample T4, was found to be

thickest among interlock
samples, shows highest
absorption.
For plaited and two layer fabric

in which sample T5 and T6 with
highest porosity were found to
have maximum absorbency
54
Absorbency characteristics of Absorbency characteristics of 2
plaited fabrics layer fabrics
55
OTHER Studies on Wicking of Liquid in Textile Material
n It is found that larger pores retain larger mass of

liquid but liquid advancement is limited.
q As the radius of the capillary decreases, the
pressure generated in the capillary will be higher
n Increase in packing co-efficient of yarn, results in

closer fibre to fibre distance, greater number of
capillaries with smaller diameter, increases capillary
flow.
n With increase in non-roundness of the fibre, specific
area increases, which causes increase in proportion
of capillary wall that drags the liquid 56
Fabric Wicking height, cm

Sample
Warp Weft
1 min 3 min 5 min 1 min 3 min 5 min
Normal 1.2 2.8 3.6 1.4 2.7 3.6

Yarn
Twistless 1.0 2.9 3.4 4.9 6.8 8.7
Yarn
Hollow 1.2 2.9 3.7 3.2 5.5 6.4

Yarn
57
Studies on Water Absorbency of Liquid in Textile Material
144
Fabric Water
Sample absorbency, 142
% 140
Normal Yarn 136.04 138

136
134 A
B
Twistless Yarn 129.23 132
C
130
128
Hollow Yarn 142.53 126
124
122
58
n With the increase in the tortuosity of the pores the

wickability reduces
n It depends on irregularities in fibre diameter along
the pores or arrangement of the fibre
n Natural fibres are irregular in diameter, shape, etc.
So, yarns produced from that also will have irregular
capillaries.
n Similarly, in textured yarns, filament arrangement is
random, discontinuity in capillary. So, reduced
wicking.
n In spinning, at higher twist levels, slow migration of
fibres takes place results in discontinuity in length
and orientation of capillary, which result in reduced
wicking
59
Fabrics made of Cotton or any other

natural staple fibres have these
problems
60
n In woven fabric, wicking is affected by

q Weave Density and Geometry of fabric pores
n Linear and slow steady-state flow through a porous media

can be described by Darcy’s law,
n Where,
q Q is the rate of flow of liquid
q ∆P is the pressure head
q L0 is the length of sample in the direction of flow
q K is the proportionality constant (i.e. hydraulic conductivity of
the porous medium), depends on properties of the fluid
(viscosity) and on the pore structure of the medium
61
n Hydraulic conductivity can be given by
n Where,
q k is the permeability of the porous medium
q η is the viscosity of the liquid
62
Liquid spreading & Liquid Retention
n Initially, liquid spreading is achieved by

q Small, Uniformly distributed and Interconnected
pores
n Liquid retention is achieved by
q Large number of pores, and
q High total pore volume
63
Dynamic Surface Wetness

n Under normal conditions, a resting person
sweats 15 g / m2. h
n In hot environment, the person sweats up to

100 g / m2. h
n Perspiration rate increases with level of

activity
64
Dynamic Surface Wetness

n Presence of moisture between skin and clothing layer
q Creates discomfort even at low moisture content of 3

to 5%
q Reduces insulation of clothing by 2 to 8%
n To avoid these drawbacks
q Mobility of the thin films of condensed moisture from

skin to clothing layer and further to subsequent
layers i.e., Dynamic surface wetness is important
factor
65
Dynamic Surface Wetness and Type of Fibre

n In cotton (High Sweating Condition)
q Moisture uptake is good

q But the transfer of liquid moisture is not
spontaneous due to low capillary pressure
(???)
q Results in poor dynamic surface wetness
q Creates clammy feeling in high sweating
condition
66
Dynamic Surface Wetness and Type of Fibre

n In polyester (high sweating condition)
q Capillarity pressure is good

q But wettability is poor results in discomfort.
n In micro-denier Polyester,
q Presence of higher number of capillaries
results in higher moisture uptake
q Dry and comfort feel to wearer.
n In shaped Polyester ???

67
Evaluation of Liquid Water Transfer
Liquid water transfer takes place in 2 stages

1st Stage: Wetting (Initial Process)
2nd Stage: Wicking
68
Measurement of Wettability:
n Wettability
can be measured by
q Tensiometry
q Goniometry
69
Measurement of Wettability: Tensiometry
n Tensiometer is an instrument used to measure the

wettability of the fabric by measuring the wetting
force by Wilhelmy method.
q In this method the wetting force (force applied by
the surface, when liquid comes in contact with the
surface) is measured.
q The contact angles are calculated indirectly from
the wetting force when a solid is brought in

contact with the test liquid using Wilhelmy
principle. 70
n Wilhelmy method.
üThe Wilhelmy plate consists of a thin plate

usually on the order of a few centimeters
square.
üThe plate is often made from glass which
may be roughened to ensure
complete wetting.
üThe plate is cleaned thoroughly and
attached to a scale or balance via a thin metal
wire.
üThe force on the plate due to wetting is measured

via a tensiometer or microbalance and used to
calculate the surface tension (γ) using the Wilhelmy
equation:
71
n Wilhelmy method.
l is, unlike shown, NOT the height

of the plate; the magnitude of force
on the plate is instead directly
proportional to the wetted perimeter
of the plate.
where l is the wetted perimeter (2w + 2d) of the Wilhelmy plate

and θ is the contact angle between the liquid phase and the
plate. In practice the contact angle is rarely measured, instead
either literature values are used, or complete wetting (θ = 0) is
assumed.
72
Measurement of Wettability: Goniometry
n In this method, contact angle between the liquid

and the fabric is measured by image processing
technique
n Two types of processes are there
q Static wetting angle measurement

q Dynamic wetting angle measurement
73

n Dynamic contact angle
q It depends on the spreading velocity of the contact
line `
q It can be measured by
n Direct method – by low power optics
(involves manual error)
n Analytical method
q Automated Contact Angle Tester (ASTM D
5725-99)
q HTHP contact angle tester
q Drop analyzer tester
74
n To observe the spreading of a droplet, high

resolution CCD camera equipped with a magnifying
zoom lens was used
n Apparatus has been developed to measure
wettability of filament specimen
75
Methods of Measurement
n Wicking: After wetting of the fibre, when the

liquid reaches in the capillary, a pressure is
developed which forces the liquid to wick
along the capillary
76
Measurement of Wicking
n Liquids generally used for wicking test,
q Should represent close to human sweat
q Surface energy properties similar to human perspiration
q Heated to human skin temperature of around 35°C
q Sweat include sodium, sodium chloride, potassium,
potassium chloride etc.

n Most human sweat contains at an average of 1000 mg/l,
and at least 700 mg/l of sodium
n 0.0025 g NaCl/ml or a 0.25% solution may simulate the
sweat
q Sodium chloride (NaCl) has an atomic mass of 58 g/mol
with the Na atom occupying 40% of that mass
q Therefore, 1 gram of sodium per liter equals 2.5 grams
of NaCl per liter 77

Terms and Units
n The terms and units generally used for
measuring wicking of fabrics are
q Amount of Water Wicked (AWW) g g -1 : determine the
wicking capacity of the fabric away from the
absorption zone
q Surface-Water Transport Rate (SWTR) gg-1s-1 :
calculates the amount of water wicked by 1 gm of
fabric per second
q Wicking Time (WT) s : is the time in second for water
to wick across a specified distance (3.25 cm)
n The terms spontaneous transplanar or
transverse wicking are used when the
transmission of a liquid is through the thickness of
the fabric, i.e. perpendicular to the plane of the
78
fabric
Liquid water transfer takes place in 2 stages

1st Stage: Wetting (Initial Process)
2nd Stage: Wicking
79
Types of Wicking
q Transplanar or transverse
wicking
q In-plane wicking
q Vertical or longitudinal wicking
80
Types of Wicking
Uptake of Water Uptake of Water along
through the thickness the thickness of the
of the Fabric Fabric
Controlled Water Controlled Water

supply supply
Direction of
Transverse Wicking In-plane Wicking
Wicking
Fabric
Vertical Wicking
Water
81
Test Method for Transverse Wicking
n Horizontal sintered glass plate kept moist by a water
supply
n It should be adjusted to keep the water level at the
upper surface of the plate
n Fabric can be kept over the sintered glass plate to
water
n Uptake of water is measured by suitable method
q By the movement of meniscus
q By loss in weight of water
n Contact of fabric throughout the area can be ensured

q By placing non-porous solid weight over the fabric
82
Schematic Diagram of Traverse Wicking
83
Schematic Diagram of In-plane
Wicking
Fabric Siphon
tube
Cover plate Liquid
reservoir
Base
plate
Electronic
balance
Height
adjusting
knob
84
Test Method for In-plane Wicking
n Fabric is placed on the horizontal base plate which is

connected to the Siphon tube
n Fabric is covered with plate to ensure intimate contact
with the base plate
n Moment the fabric is placed, it starts wicking of liquid
n Wicking can be measured by
q Measuring by water uptake by the fabric sample
q Using image analysis technique to obtain the shape
and position of a radially advancing fluid front
85
Test Method for In-plane Wicking
n Possibility arises that air bubble might be trapped in the

fabric or between the plates and fabric which can be
escaped from the edges of the fabric
n Two extra capillaries

q One is between Bottom plate and fabric
q Another is between Fabric and Top plate
86
Schematic Diagram of In-plane
Wicking
Fabric Siphon
tube
Cover plate Liquid
reservoir
Base
plate
Electronic
balance
Height
adjusting
knob
87
Test Method for Vertical Wicking
(Visual Technique)
n Sample is hung vertically into a reservoir filled
with water.
n Certain amount of load should be hung at the
lower end of the sample to keep it straight
n Vertical wicking of liquid is measured by
q Visual observation of movement of the liquid
along the sample (height) is observed
(addition of suitable dye enhances visibility)
q Microscopic observation can be made
88
Schematic Diagram of Vertical
Wicking
Scale
Fabric
Clamp
Reservoir
89
Present Techniques
n Manual : Simple visual observation of travel of
liquid front and manual recording
- Chances of manual error
n Image processing : Becomes difficult in some
cases, e. g. in porous fabrics very accurate video
recording and shooting is required and thus
becoming more complex. Also, imaging the actual
liquid travel is very difficult, particularly for thicker
fabrics
n A method and instrument called the moisture
management tester (MMT) is developed by Hong
Kong Polytechnic University to evaluate textile
moisture management properties 90
Test Method for Vertical Wicking
q By measuring the electrical resistance of the
fabric (or) yarn
n Electrical conductivity of water is 18 times
that of air
n The liquid wicks along the sample,
electrical resistance get reduced
n Rise of the liquid water in the sample can
trigger an electrical circuit
n So, distance of rise as a function of time is
determined
91
Present Techniques…. Cont
Moisture Management Tester (MMT)
PRINCIPLE
Variation of contact electrical
resistance of the fabric with
transport of moisture
Depends on:
the components of the water,

and
the water content in the
EXPERIMENT
fabric.
1. The specimen held flat at a certain pressure
2. Top and lower sensors
3. Computer dynamically records the resistance change between
each couple of proximate metal rings individually at the top and
lower sensors 92
Instruments based on Resistance
and Capacitance Principles
93
Underlying Principle of proposed testers
n The proposed idea is based on electrical resistance
offered by the fabrics in wet and dry conditions
n Dry fabrics are poor conductors of electricity,
whereas wet fabrics are better conductors. Wetted
fabrics conduct some electricity because of the
water ions present which act as carriers of electrons
n When the textile fabrics come into contact with
water, it will start wicking and the presence of water
reduces the electrical resistance of the fabrics and
will start conducting electricity.
n This principle is exploited in detecting the water
travel front point.
94
Schematic diagram of Vertical
Wicking Tester
Play
95
Principle of Vertical Wicking Tester
oThis instrument taps the fact that when the water level
reaches a particular height, the circuit at that level gets
complete as the electrical resistance offered by the
fabric decreases.
oAs a result the LED corresponding to that circuit

glows, indicating that water has reached that particular
height.
oWith the help of a microcontroller, the time gets stored

automatically.
oThe time Vs. wicking height curve also gets displayed

on the computer screen. 96
97
Vertical Wicking Tester
Vertical Wicking Tester
98
Consistency testing of vertical wicking tester 99
Vertical wicking tester
• It was observed that the difference in the results obtained by the

two methods was not significant.
• Thus validating the principle of the instrument.
100
Schematic diagram of in-plane wicking
tester
101
Principle of In-plane Wicking Tester
oIt consists of a circular block of insulating material
oSuitable electrical circuits was developed which sense

the in-plane flow of water
oThe water was supplied to the centre of the fabric

sample
oAs soon as the water reaches to a specified point, the

electrical circuit is completed and the signal is
transmitted to computer
oTime Vs. water front flow point was plotted in real time
102
Liquid flow : In-plane wicking tester
103
Liquid flow : In-plane wicking tester
104
In plane wicking measurement system
(Capacitance Principle)
105
n Flow of liquid through porous material
n Reason - Capillary action
106
107
108
Basic body of the instrument
n Top plate
109
Basic body of the instrument
n Lower plate
110
Principle
• In general the capacitance(C) depends upon 3
main parameters:
1) Dielectric constant (K)

2) Area(A)
3) Distance(d)
• Hence in general,
C = KAƐo/d ,
Ɛo = relative static permittivity of the material

111
Capacitor plates
n Insulation to prevent discharging of capacitor
112
Capacitance in Parallel
113
Calculations
C(initial)=k ԐLW/(2*d1) = Constant = m

1/Cwet = d/ ( kwetԐLW) +1/m
Kwet = d m Cwet / (m – Cwet) …….1
1/Cdry = d/ ( kdryԐLW) +1/m
Kdry = d m Cdry / (m – Cdry)…….2
1/Cx = d/( (kwet-kdry)xԐW + kdryԐWL) +1/m
X = (Cx-Cdry)/(Cwet-Cdry)*(m-Cdry)/(m-Cx) L
114
Design
115
Signal Amplification
116
üLiquid Water Transmission
üMoisture Vapour Transmission
117
Moisture Vapour Transmission
through Textile Materials
118
Moisture Vapour Transmission
n Vapour transfer through the fabric is

primarily by means of
q Inter yarn spaces
q Inter fibre spaces
n Vapour diffuses through the air spaces

between the fibrous materials
q Open fabric structure promotes the
diffusion process
119
Different Layers Through which
Moisture Vapor Transports
Ambient air layer
Boundary air layer
Fabric layer
Evaporating fluid layer
Human skin
120
Mechanisms
n Moisture in vapour form transmits through textile
materials by the following four mechanisms
1. Diffusion of the water vapour through the
air spaces between the fibres
2. Absorption, transmission and desorption
of the water vapour by the fibres

3. Adsorption and migration of the water
vapour along the fibre surface

4. Transmission of water vapour by forced
convection
121
Diffusion
n Vapour pressure gradient acts as the driving force
n Occurs on a molecular level at lower speed
n Moisture vapour is transported from the higher
concentration zone to the lower concentration zone
n As per Fick’s Law, the relation between the flux of the
diffusing substance and the concentration gradient
(dCA/dx)
n Where,
2
q JAx is the rate of moisture flux (g/m .s)
3
q dCA is the concentration of moisture vapour (g/m )
q dx is length (m)
q DAB is the diffusion coefficient or mass diffusivity of

one component diffusing through another media
122
(m2/s)
Diffusion: Fickian Diffusion
n The diffusion which follows Fick’s law is called
Fickian diffusion
n In this case the diffusion coefficient (DAB) does
not alter
q with the changes in the moisture vapour
concentration within the material

q with the changes in temperature
n In case of air permeable fabrics and micro-

porous polymers this type of diffusion takes place
123
Diffusion: Non-fickian Diffusion
n The diffusion which does not follow this law

is called non-Fickian diffusion.
n The water vapour transmission rate of the
hydrophilic polymers conforms to the
following relationship
WVT = D.S. (p1-p2)/l
124
Diffusion: Non-fickian Diffusion
WVT = D.S. (p1-p2)/l
n where,
n (p1-p2) = Partial pressure gradient between the two
surfaces
n l = Thickness of the material
q D = Diffusion coefficient (i.e. The diffusion coefficient is

the amount of a particular substance that diffuses across
a unit area in 1 s under the influence of a gradient of one
unit. It is usually expressed in the units m2/s.
q S = Solubility coefficient (The volume of a gas that can be
dissolved by a unit volume of solvent)

n Hydrophilic materials transfer water vapor according to
Non-Fickian diffusion. 125
Principles of Diffusion through textile
medium
n Moisture vapour can diffuse through a

textile medium by two principles
q Simple diffusion through the air spaces
within the fibrous structure (Fickian

diffusion)
q Diffusion along the fibre itself (Non-
Fickian diffusion)
126
Diffusion Along the Fibre (Non-Fickian )
Moisture vapour diffuses from one surface of the

fabric
Surface of fibre
Travels along the interior of the fibres
Reaches other surface of the fibres
Reaches the other surface of fabric

127
Diffusion Along the Textile Materials
n At a specific concentration gradient,
diffusion rate depends upon
q Porosity of the material
q Water vapour diffusivity of the fibre
n The diffusion coefficient of water vapour

q Through air is 0.239cm2/sec
q Through cotton fibre is around 10-7 cm2/sec
n Depends on rate at which moisture can

diffuse into and out of the fibres
128
Diffusion Along the Textile Materials
§The moisture diffusion through the air portion of the
fabric is almost instantaneous,
§Whereas, through a fabric system it is limited by the rate at

which moisture can diffuse into and out of the fibres
§which is due to the lower moisture diffusivity of the

textile material
§In the case of hydrophilic fibre assemblies, vapour diffusion

does not obey Fick’s law
§It is governed by a non-Fickian, anomalous diffusion

129
Diffusion Along the Textile Materials: Two Stage
Diffusion
n In the case of hydrophilic fibre assemblies,

two stage diffusion occurs
q First stage: Fickian diffusion (through air gap)
q Second stage: much slower (follows an
exponential relationship between the
concentration gradient and the vapour flux)
n Diffusion of vapour through fibres causes to
absorb moisture and causes swelling results
in reduction of air spaces
n So, slows down diffusion process
130
Factors Affecting Diffusivity
n Diffusivity DECREASES with,
q Increases in fibre volume fraction
(proportion of air reduces results in
reduction in diffusivity)
q Increase in the flatness of the fibre cross-
section
q With an increase in fabric thickness (the
porosity of the material is reduced)

n Water vapour diffusion has direct correlation
with the air permeability of the fabric
131
Diffusion Coefficient
n The diffusion coefficient of moisture vapour in air
can be given as a function of temperature and pressure
by the following equation
n Where,
q D is the diffusion co-efficient of water vapour in air (m2/sec)
q θ is the atmospheric temperature (°K)
q θ0 is the standard temperature of 273.15 °K
q P is the atmospheric pressure
q P0 is the standard pressure (bar)
n In general, the diffusion co-efficient of fibres increases

with the increase in the concentration of water in the
fibres
132
Sorption-Transmission-Desorption
n It is an important phenomenon of moisture
vapour transmission which is responsible for
maintaining the microclimate during transient
conditions
n Hygroscopic fibrous materials

q Absorb moisture from human skin
q Absorbing fabric works as a moisture source

to the atmosphere
q Release absorbed moisture in dry air
133
n Reduce the moisture built up in the microclimate
q This process enhances the transmission of
moisture vapour from the human skin to the
environment.
n The transmission of moisture vapour (at lower

activity level) in case of hygroscopic materials is
higher than materials which do not absorb
moisture and thus reduce the moisture built up in
the microclimate (cotton is comfortable in low
activity, whereas polyester is not)
134
n During absorption–desorption process the

absorbing fabric works as a moisture
source to the atmosphere.
n It also works as a buffer by maintaining a
constant vapour concentration in the air
immediately surrounding it, i.e. a constant
humidity is maintained in the adjoining air,
though temperature changes due to the
heat of sorption.
135
Adsorption-Migration
n Adsorption of water molecules takes place below

a critical temperature
q Van-der-Waals forces occurs between the

moisture vapour molecules and the solid surface
of textile fibres
n The higher the vapour pressure and the lower the

temperature, the higher is the amount adsorbed
136
Factors Affecting Adsorption
n The amount of moisture adsorption depends on

q Moisture regain
q Environmental humidity
q Sorption hysteresis
q Temperature
q Dimensional changes
137
Factors Affecting Adsorption
n With the increase in fibre swelling the capillary
channels between the fibres get reduced which
results lower vapour transmission
q The distortion caused by the fibre swelling
results in built up of internal stresses which
affects the moisture adsorption process.
n The adsorption hysteresis increases with the
increase in the hydrophilicity of fibre
138
Forced Convection
n The transmission of moisture vapour that takes place
while air is flowing over a moisture layer
n The amount of moisture transmission in this process is

governed by the difference in moisture concentration
between the surrounding atmosphere and the source
of moisture vapour
n The process is governed by the following equation

Qm = - A hm (Ca - Cα)
139
Forced Convection
Qm = - A hm (Ca - Cα)
n where ,
q Qm is the mass of moisture vapour transmitted by
convection through the fabric area of A along the
direction of the flow
q Ca is the moisture vapour concentration on the fabric
surface
q Cα is the vapour concentration in the air
n The rate of moisture transmission can be controlled by

the difference in vapour concentration, (Ca - Cα), and
the convective mass transfer coefficient, hm, which
depends on the fluid properties, mainly on its velocity
140
Forced Convection
n In a windy atmosphere the convection

method plays a very significant role in
transmitting moisture from the skin to the
atmosphere through clothing
141
Rel. water vapour permeability%
3.2
Absolute vapour resistance

62
3.1
82.58 3
61 y=62.97-
x
R2=0.8666 2.9 y=3.57-0.098x 0.5
60 R2=0.8781
2.8
2.7
59
2.6
20 40 60 80 100 0 25 50 75 100
Viscose% Viscose%
üWith the increase in
Air permeability cm3/cm2/sec

36
viscose% in P/V blended 30
fabrics, water vapour 24
permeability of the fabric 18
increases. 12
6
üMass per unit area of all the 0
fabrics is constant 20 40 60 80 100
Viscose %
142
üSo the difference in the water vapour
permeability of the fabric occurs because of
something else rather than the openness of the
material.
üWhen vapour transmits through a textile layer

two processes are involved in that; diffusion and
sorption-desorption.
üWater vapour diffuses through a textile

structure in two ways, simple diffusion through
the air spaces between the fibres and yarns and
along the fibre itself.
143
ü At a specific concentration gradient the
diffusion rate along the textile material depends
on the porosity of the material and also on the
water vapour diffusivity of the fibre.
üDiffusivity of the material increases with the

increase in moisture regain
144
ØSo as the fabric sett and structure of all the
fabrics are almost same, diffusion through air
should not differs for the fabrics.
ØAs the viscose proportion in the fabric

increases, moisture regain of the material
increases causing higher diffusivity.
ØIn the same way moisture transfer through

sorption-desorption process increases with the
hygroscopicity of the material.
145
ØA hygroscopic fabric absorbs water vapour from
the humid air close to the sweating skin and
releases it in dry air.
ØThis enhances the flow of water vapour from the

skin to the environment as compared to a fabric
which does not absorb and reduces the moisture
built up in the microclimate.
ØWhereas fabric with less hygroscopicity will

provide higher resistance to the water vapour
transfer.
146
24.6 48
y = -2.8962x + 27.122
Rel. water vapour
y = -13.787x + 59.643
Air permeability
R2 = 0.9769 46
(cm3/cm2/min)
permeability%
24 R2 = 0.9998
44
23.4
42
22.8 40
0.9 1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 0.9 1.1 1.3
Shape factor Shape factor
30
25 25.5
Rel. water vapour

permeability%
Rel. water vapour
20 24
permeability, %
y = 0.132x + 17.92
R² = 0.962
15 22.5
10 21
25 30 35 40 45 50
5
Air permeability
0
Trilobal Triangular Circular Microdenier
147
üThe results indicate that the fabric with circular filament
has the highest water vapour permeability and it reduces with
the increase in fibre shape factor.
üA good correlation has also been found between air

permeability and relative water vapour% of the fabrics.
üAs fibre shape factor increases the specific surface area of

the fibre also increases. Furthermore, the drag resistance to
air and the water vapour flow through the fibre surface
decreases with the increase in fibre shape factor, which
results in low air and water vapour permeability for these
fabrics.
148
üAir permeability and water vapour permeability decreases
with the decrease in fibre diameter.
üThis result can also be explained by higher specific area of

the fibres. Finer the specific area of the fibre is higher, lower
is the air and water vapour permeability of the fabric.
149
Moisture Evaporation
(Evaporative Heat Transfer)
and
Condensation
150
Moisture Evaporative and Condensation
n Evaporation and condensation also have significant

effects on moisture vapour transmission through
porous textile materials
n These depend on
q Temperature
q Moisture distribution in porous textile materials
n The importance of evaporative heat transfer in

maintaining thermal balance becomes more crucial
with the increase in the surrounding atmospheric
temperature
151
Moisture transmission & Evaporative Heat Transfer
n During the evaporation of liquid body perspiration

q Latent heat is taken away from the body, thus
body cools down
n Also, increase in the surrounding atmospheric
temperature (close to skin temperature)
n In this case, due to the low temperature difference
between the human body and the environment the
heat transmission through radiation, conduction and
convection reduces
152
Moisture transmission & Evaporative Heat Transfer
n When a negative temperature gradient (i.e. in a very hot
climate) exists between the skin and the environment,
evaporative heat transfer becomes the only way to cool
down the body temperature
n Latent heat of evaporation of water is vary large (about 2300

kJ/kg)
q So, small amount of evaporation results in significant amount of
heat flow and cools down the body
n The presence of wind enhances the evaporative heat transfer
due to enhanced evaporation rate and results in additional
cooling that is desirable in periods of peak performance
153
Condensation of Moisture Vapour
§Condensation of moisture vapour is a direct result of a
fabric being saturated by liquid perspiration and it generally
occurs within the fabric whenever the local vapour
pressure increases to saturation vapour pressure at
certain temperature
§ It generally occurs when,

• the atmospheric temperature is very low
• the relatively warmer and moist air from the skin comes
into contact with relatively cooler fabric surface, the
fabric surface works as a cold wall and condensation
occurs
§It has been reported that condensation can occur at

atmospheric temperatures below 10°C
154
Condensation of Moisture Vapour…
cont
n In case of waterproof fabrics the chances of
condensation is very high because,
q Water vapour can diffuse from the skin to the
fabric layer easily

q Diffusion from the fabric layer to the
atmosphere is difficult
q Condensation takes place
155
Three Stages of Condensation
n Condensation of moisture vapour in an initially
dry porous fibrous material takes place in three
stages
q First stage: Velocity, temperature and vapour
concentration fields are developed within the
material and condensation begins
q Second stage: Liquid content increases
gradually, but it is still too low to move
q Third stage: Liquid content increases further
and goes beyond certain threshold value, the
pendulum like drops of condensate coalesce
and begin to move under surface tension and
gravity 156
Condensation of Moisture Vapour
n If the vapour concentrations in both the surfaces of the
fabric are at the saturation level,
q condensation of moisture vapour occurs in the entire
thickness of the fabric
n In case of below saturation level, at a specific
atmospheric temperature, condensation occurs only over
certain region within the fabric
q In this case, condensation of moisture vapour occurs in the
fabric, which forms a wet zone separated by two dry zones
q The proportion of the wet region increases with the increase
in condensation of moisture vapour
q The progress of condensation process of moisture
vapour takes place mainly in the direction of the warmer
side rather than that of the cooler side [study report]
157
Evaluation of Moisture Vapour
Transmission
158
Evaluation
n Different standard methods
q Evaporative dish method or control dish method
(BS 7209)
q Upright cup method or Gore cup method (ASTM E
96-66)
q Inverted cup method and the desiccant inverted
cup method (ASTM F 2298)
q Desiccant Inverted Cup Method
q Moisture Vapour Transmission Cell
q The dynamic moisture permeable cell (ASTM F
2298)
q The sweating guarded hot plate method, skin
model (ISO 11092)
159
Evaluation: Evaporative Dish Method
n Procedure
q Known weight of water is kept in a dish
q Open mouth is covered with the fabric to be tested
q After certain time system reaches equilibrium
q Water vapour permeability (WVP) is measured by

successive weighting of the dish
q Relative WVP is calculated by comparing with reference
fabric
Standard: BS 7209 160

Evaluation: Evaporative Dish Method
Formula for calculating Water Vapour Permeability
Water vapour permeability (WVP) = 24M / A. t (g/ m2/day)

Relative water vapour permeability index% = (WVP)f × 100 /
(WVP)r
q Where,
n M is the loss in mass (g) of water vapour through the
fabric specimen
n t is the time between weighing (h)
n A is the internal area of the dish (m2)
n (WVP)f and (WVP)r are the water vapour permeability of
the test fabric and reference fabric respectively
Standard: BS 7209 161

Evaluation: Upright Cup Method
Standard: ASTM E 96-80 procedure B 162

Evaluation: Upright Cup Method
n A shallow cup is filled with 100 ml of water
n Fabric is mounted on the cup
n Assembly is kept in environmental chamber at 23°C, 50% RH
and air velocity of 2.8 m/s
n Assembly is weighed periodically throughout the day
24 ´ G
WVT = 2
; g / m / 24hr
n Where, A´T
q WVT = water vapor transmission rate (g/m2/day)
q G = change in mass (g)
q T = testing time (hr)
q A = test area (m2).
Standard: ASTM E 96-80 procedure B 163

Evaluation: Inverted Cup Test Method
Standard: ASTM E96, Procedure BW 164

Evaluation: Inverted Cup Test Method
n Hydrophobic PTFE membrane is used to seal the

mouth of the cup to prevent the wetting of the
specimen
n The test specimen is placed over the membrane
n Cup assembly is placed in an inverted position
n Assembly is weighed periodically throughout one
day
n Mainly for use with waterproof samples
Evaluation: Desiccant Inverted Cup Method

n Similar to that of Inverted cup method but the only
difference is that in this method the cup used in this
method is partly filled with desiccant such as
q Potassium acetate,
q Calcium chloride,
q Anhydrous CaSO4 or anhydrous MgClO4
n The drying agent stays in direct contact with fabric,
minimizing the path of water vapour
n The inverted cup is covered by the specimen and the
specimen is covered by another piece of waterproof and
vapour permeable membrane (like PTFE)
n The inverted cup along with specimen is immersed into the
water bath filled with distilled water with the help of specimen
holder
Standard: ISO 15496 2004 167
n The measuring cup initially is weighed by means of a balance
then inverted and inserted into the specimen holder.
n After certain time (t), the measuring cup is removed and
reweighed.
n The water vapour permeability of the specimen is then
calculated by using the following equation:
WVT = (w2-w1)/(a×t)
n Where,
q WVT is water vapor transmission rate
q w2 = mass of cup assembly after test
q w1 = mass of test cup assembly body before test
q a = test area
Standard: ISO 15496 2004 168

Evaluation: Moisture Vapour
Transmission Cell
n There are two cells
q Lower cell is partially filled with water and covered by fabric
specimen
q Upper cell is kept dry at the start of the test by suitable
arrangement
n Moisture vapour is transmitted through the fabric
sample
n The moisture vapour transmission rate (T) (g/in2/day)
is given by the change in humidity in the upper cell
at a given time interval
æ ö
(
T = 269 ´ 10 -7
) çç D% RH ´
1440
÷÷
Time Interval ø
è
169
Microclimate simulator cum moisture vapour
transmission tester:
170
171
172
173
174
Evaluation: Holographic Bench Technique
n In this method the mass flow is measured with

high accuracy using a micro-weighing
technique
n The resistance to the water vapour transfer
depends on the (i) resistance of the air layer
and (ii) the outer clothing
n Holographic bench technique separately
measures the water vapour flow resistance
offered by different air layers; thus it provides
the precise vapour resistance value of the
textile layer.
175
Evaluation: SGHP
176
Evaluation: SGHP
n It measures the evaporative heat loss in the steady state
condition
n Temperature of the guarded hot plate: 350C
n Water vapour resistance (Ret) (m2 Pa/W) is calculated by
A(Pm - Pa )
Ret = - Ret 0
n Where, H - DH c
q A is the test area
q Pm is the saturation water vapour partial pressure at the
surface of the measuring unit
q Pa is the water vapour partial pressure of the air in the test
chamber
q H is the amount of heat supplied to the measuring unit
q ΔHc is a correction factor and Ret0 is the apparatus constant
Standard: ISO 11092 177
Evaporative Resistance by SGHP
n Distilled water level in the dosing

device is adjusted 1 mm below the test
plate level
n Porous membrane is covered over the
plate assembly
n Water droplet coming out of the plate
should be just enough to keep the
porous membrane with moisture
178
n The resistance to water vapour (evaporative resistance) is
given by the following equation
( Ps - Pa )
Ret =
(Ts - Ta )
(Q A) -
Rt
Where,
q Ret is the evaporative resistance of the fabric provided by the
liquid barrier along with air layer (m2 Pa / W)
q Ps is the saturated vapour pressure at skin temperature (Pa)
q Pa is the ambient vapour pressure at ambient temperature
(Pa)
q Rt is the thermal resistance (m2 °C / W)
q Therefore, [(Ts-Ta)/Rt] is Dry heat loss (W / m2)
179
n The Intrinsic evaporative resistance (m2 Pa /
W) of fabric is given by
Ref = Ret – Ret0
Where,
q Ret0 is the bare plate resistance (m2 Pa / W)
n Permeability Index (Im) of the fabric is given by

Im = K.Rct / Ret
Where,
q Rct and Ret are dry and evaporative thermal
resistance respectively
q K is a constant (60.6515 Pa / °C )
180
Evaluation: The PERMETEST
n This is a fast response measuring instrument
n Works on the principle of heat flux sensing (measuring the
evaporative heat resistance)
n The temperature of the measuring head is maintained at
35°C (from where the supplied water gets evaporated)
n The heat supplied to maintain the temperature of the
measuring head, with and without the fabric mounted on the
plate, is measured.
Relative water vapour permeability (%)
Heat lost when the fabric is placed on the measuring head
= ´ 100
Heat lost from the bare measuring head
(Standard – ISO 110092) 181
PERMETEST
Air flow
T
Wire mesh Copper
Temp Heat flow plate
Specimen Heater
sensor sensor
Water
film
Plastic ring
Measuring head of Permetest
(Standard – ISO 110092) 182

Water Vapour Transmission by Permetest
n Instrument works under the principle of heat flux

sensing
n Temperature of measuring head is maintained in
isothermal conditions at 35 °C
n When water evaporates from the measuring head,
the heat loss from it is measured indirectly by the
heat sensor
n Heat loss by the bare plate and covered with
fabric both are taken
183
Permetest…
n Relative water vapour permeability pwv (%), is given by,
us
Where, p wv (%) = 100
u0
q us is heat loss from the measuring head with fabric
q u0 heat loss from the measuring head without fabric
n Water vapour resistance Ret (m2 Pa/W) is given by
æ 1 1 ö æ1 1 ö
Ret = ( p wsat - p wo )çç - ÷÷ = C (100 - j )çç - ÷÷
è Su o Su s ø è us u o ø
Where,
q pwsat is partial water vapour pressure in saturated air in Pascal;
and
q pwo partial water vapour pressure in the laboratory air in
Pascal
q φ is the humidity
q C is the constant determined by calibration procedure 184
Moisture Sensation in Clothing
185
Moisture Sensation & Clothing Comfort
n Moisture accumulation on the skin and within the
clothing layers is the primary reason for discomfort
n This problem is intensified further particularly in
functional clothing because this sort of clothing is
frequently used under stressful environmental
conditions in which moisture accumulates on the skin
and within the clothing layers and contributes to
wearer discomfort
n Moisture sensation of clothing can be expressed either
in terms of
q Absolute threshold
q Difference threshold
186
Moisture Sensation & Clothing Comfort
n So, clear understanding of moisture

management characteristics is very
essential to achieve clothing comfort
187
188

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Moisture Comfort - TXL750 PDF

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Clothing Comfort

ØNeed and Selection of Clothing

ØPsycho-physiological Factors of Clothing

ØPsychophysics and Clothing Comfort

ØWear Trial Techniques

Ø Psychological Aspects of Aesthetic Comfort

Mechanical and Thermal Receptors

Sensory Perceptions of Human Body

Physiological Requirements of the Human Body

Fabric Handle Attributes for Expressing Tactile Comfort

Assessment of Fabric Handle Characteristics

Fabric Parameters Affecting Tactile Sensation

- Thermo-regulation in Human Body

- Transient Heat Flow and Warm-cool Touch of Fabrics

- Thermal Transmission Characteristics of Fabrics

n Transmission in Liquid form

üExercise simulation, walking, running or

ü The SR max due to marathon running were 1,000

q Type and structure of material used

q Atmospheric conditions (humidity,

n In high activity level, the production of heat is high,

Perspiration in Liquid &

Moisture Build up &

A clear understanding of the role of moisture transmission

§material absorbs sweat and moisture well

§ material absorbs moisture and sweat well

Warmth is lost rapidly

§ material absorbs moisture and sweat poorly

between skin and clothing

100 % Normal Polyester

100 % normal cotton

üLiquid Water Transmission

üMoisture Vapour Transmission

n Liquid water transfer takes place in 2 stages

q Forces acting at a solid-liquid boundary under equilibrium is

1st Phase: Wetting

q Decrease in density and viscosity of liquid

n Contact angle reduces (means higher wettability) with

spreading of water, due to the troughs offered by the

have higher wettability 25

q Where, γSV – γSL = γLV cosθ

n P is the capillary pressure developed in a capillary

The magnitude of the capillary pressure through a channel is

Perimeter of the capillary

2nd Phase: Capillary Wicking 27

qFor a particular liquid, at constant pressure

qAs the fibre cross sectional shape

üThe amount of water that wicks through the channel is

2nd Phase: Capillary Wicking 29

n The distance travelled by a liquid flowing under

Effect of Presence of Hydrophilic Fibre in Blend

üWith the increase in

üThis behaviour can be

Effect of Fibre Diameter and Cross Sectional

Materials SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

Following variables were taken to design the experiment -

n Fibre cross-section (Poly) – Circular, Triangular and

n Fibre denier (Poly) – dpf – 4.72 and 0.85

Polyester filaments with the above specifications and

Effect of FIBRE DIAMETER

Polyester Multifilament Normal Denier, Micro Denier

Effect of FIBRE PROFILE

Polyester Multifilament Circular, Triangular, Trilobal