1755: The First Patent

Charles Weisenthal, a German man, was issued a British patent for a “needle that is designed
for a machine.” There’s no description in Weisenthal’s patent of any mechanical machine, but it
shows there was a need for such an invention.

1790: The First Detailed Design

The history of the sewing machine essentially starts here. Englishman Thomas Saint designed
the first sewing machine of its kind. The patent described a machine powered with a hand crank
to be used for leather and canvas. Nobody knows if Saint built a prototype, but in 1874, William
Newton Wilson found the patent drawings. They were so detailed, he built a replica, proving
that it did work.

Early 18th Century: Many Attempts, Many Fails

It’s worth mentioning that all attempts of designing a sewing machine before the first successful
one, all moved the needle side to side and were powered with a winding handle.

 1810: Balthasar Krems invents an automatic machine for sewing caps. He didn’t patent
his design but it didn’t work anyway.
 1814: An Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger, was issued a patent in 1814. He was
persistent, attempting several different designs, but all were unsuccessful.
 1818: John Adams Doge and John Knowles invent America’s first sewing machine, but it
could only sew a few bits of fabric before breaking.

1830: The First Successful Sewing Machine

Joy! 40 years since Thomas Saint first drew and described a machine for sewing, we finally
have a functioning sewing machine. Barthelemy Thimonnier, a French tailor, invented a
machine that used a hooked needle and one thread, creating a chain stitch.
 1830: A Riot & Near Death Experience

After the successful patent, Thimonnier opened the world’s first machine based clothing
manufacturing company. His job was to create uniforms for the French Army. But when other
French tailors got wind of his invention, they weren’t too pleased. They feared his machine
would result in their unemployment so they burnt down his factory whilst he was still inside.
Never take your sewing machine for granted ever again; this guy almost died for it.

1834: Morals Over Money

This is an example of sticking true to your beliefs. Walter Hunt created America’s first
functioning sewing machine, but he had second thoughts. Hunt thought such a machine would
cause unemployment for many, so he didn’t bother to patent the design. Now you see where
things are going to get messy.

1844: A Lost Patent

The sewing machines we’ve seen so far are all made up of disjointed elements, with nothing
really working together. In 1844, English inventor John Fisher designed a sewing machine that
would eliminate this disparity between the moving parts. However, a botched filing job at the
Patent Office resulted in his patent getting lost, so he never received any recognition.

1845: Elias Howe & the Lockstitch

Elias Howe from America invents a sewing machine that resembles Fisher’s, with some tweaks
and adjustments. His patent was to invent “a process that uses thread from 2 different sources.”
His machine has a needle with an eye at the point, which goes through the fabric creating a loop
on the reverse, a shuttle on a track that slips the second thread through the loop, creating what is
called the lockstitch. He struggled to market his design, so he took the plunge and sailed to
England. After a lengthy stay, he returned to his motherland only to find others had copied his
lockstitch mechanism. One of those was an Isaac Merritt Singer.
 1851: Introducing Isaac Singer

Isaac Merritt Singer is one of the most well-known sewing machine manufacturers, building an
empire that is still going today. His iconic Singer sewing machines are beautifully ornate and
somewhat legendary. He developed the first version of our modern day sewing machine, with a
foot pedal and the up-and-down needle. He was also inspired by elements from the Howe, Hunt
and Thimonnier inventions, causing Howe to file a lawsuit.

1854: A Real Stitch Up

Elias Howe took Singer to court for Patent Infringement, where he defended his case and won.
Isaac Singer tried to refer back to Walter Hunt’s design, expressing that Howe infringed upon
his idea. Unfortunately for Singer, this didn’t have any impact at all. The lack of patent on
Hunt’s design meant it was intellectual property for anybody to use.

What’s interesting is that if John Fisher’s patent hadn’t have been filed wrong in the Patent
Office, he too would have been involved in the law suit as both Howe and Singer’s designs
were near enough identical to the one Fisher invented.
Consequently, Singer was forced to pay a lump sum of patent royalties to Howe, as well as
giving him a share in the I.M. Singer & Co profits.

Despite all the allegations, drama and legal disputes, Howe and Singer both died
multimillionaires, and each of these pioneering inventors gave the world the sewing machine.
Without the early failed attempts and sheer persistence to create something that would relieve
the women and factory workers of long, perilous hours, who knows what our clothing
manufacturing industry would look like today. The history of the sewing machine is a
complicated one, and as a result, many enthusiasts still debate who can claim the title of the real
inventor. Our stance? We’re just glad we still don’t have to use animal sinew and bones.