FINAL ASSIGNTMENT KL3103

Wind and Wave Data Acquisition and Analysis in South Bolaang

Mongondow Regency

OCEAN ENGINEERING DATA ACQUISITION AND ANALYSIS

By:

Refina Hidayanti (15517017)

Lecturer:

Ir. IrsanSoemantriBrodjonegoro, Ph.D

Alamsyah Kurniawan, S.T., Ph.D

OCEAN ENGINEERING

FACULTY OF CIVIL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING

INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG

2019

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Contents
Table of Figures .......................................................................................................................ii
Chapter 1 Introduction ........................................................................................................... 1
1.1 Background ............................................................................................................... 1
1.2 Aim and Purpose ....................................................................................................... 2
1.3 Data Coverage ........................................................................................................... 3
Chapter 2 Basic Theory .......................................................................................................... 4
2.1 Primary and Secondary Data ..................................................................................... 4
2.1.1 Primary Data ...................................................................................................... 4
2.1.2 Secondary Data .................................................................................................. 4
2.1.3 Difference between primary and secondary data ............................................... 4
2.1.4 Comparison between Primary and Secondary Data........................................... 5
2.2 Wind and Wave ......................................................................................................... 6
2.2.1 Wind ................................................................................................................... 6
2.2.2 Wave .................................................................................................................. 6
2.3 Comparisson between Wind and Monsoon Season .................................................. 8
2.3.1 Monsoon Regions .............................................................................................. 8
2.3.2 Indonesian Monsoon .......................................................................................... 9
Chapter 3 Data Results and Analysis ................................................................................... 11
3.1 The Process of Obtaining Data................................................................................ 11
3.1.1 Collecting the Data from ECMWF .................................................................. 11
3.1.2 Process the Data ............................................................................................... 13
3.2 Wind and Wave ....................................................................................................... 15
3.2.1 Wind Rose ........................................................................................................ 15
3.2.2 Wave Rose ....................................................................................................... 19
Chapter 4 Conclusion ........................................................................................................... 22
References .............................................................................................................................. 23

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Table of Figures

Figure 1.1 Illustration of South Bolaang Monondow Regency on a map............................... 1

Figure 1.2 Preview of South Bolaang Mongondow Regency in Google Earth ..................... 2
Figure 2.1 Upwelling and Downwelling ................................................................................. 6
Figure 2.2 Wind is the source of the surf ............................................................................... 7
Figure 2.3 Illustration of Monsoon Season ............................................................................ 8
Figure 2.4 Mean wind patterns in January (left) and July (right) ........................................... 9
Figure 2.5 Division of season based on the monsoon in Indonesia ...................................... 10
Figure 3.1 List of NC Files ................................................................................................... 13
Figure 3.2 Preview of ODV (Ocean Data View) .................................................................. 13
Figure 3.3 List of .txt Files .................................................................................................... 13
Figure 3.4 Preview of the Result .txt Files in Excel ............................................................. 14
Figure 3.5 Script WindRose at MATLAB ............................................................................ 14
Figure 3.6 The MATLAB Result of Wind Rose and Wave Rose......................................... 15
Figure 3.7 Wind Rose January and February 2017 ............................................................... 15
Figure 3.8 Wind Rose March and April 2017 ....................................................................... 15
Figure 3.9 Wind Rose May and June 2017 ........................................................................... 16
Figure 3.10 Wind Rose July and August 2017 ..................................................................... 16
Figure 3.11Wind Rose September and October 2017........................................................... 16
Figure 3.12 Wind Rose November and December 2017 ...................................................... 17
Figure 3.13 Monsoon Wind blowing from Asia to Australia ............................................... 17
Figure 3.14 Monsoon Wind blowing from Australia to Asia ............................................... 18
Figure 3.15 Wind Rose in 2017 ............................................................................................ 18
Figure 3.16 Wave Rose January and February 2017 ............................................................ 19
Figure 3.17 Wave Rose March and April 2017 .................................................................... 19
Figure 3.18 Wave Rose May and June 2017 ........................................................................ 20
Figure 3.19 Wave Rose July and August 2017 .................................................................... 20
Figure 3.20 Wave Rose September and October 2017 ......................................................... 20
Figure 3.21 Wave Rose November and December 2017 ...................................................... 21
Figure 3.22 Wave Rose in 2017 ............................................................................................ 21

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 Chapter 1 Introduction
1.1 Background
In the final project ocean data acquisition and analysis, I am going to carry out ocean
engineering data acquisition and analysis in South Bolaang Mongondow Regency (number
10), Indonesia.

Bolaang Mongondow is a regency in the province of North Sulawesi, Indonesia. The

capital is Lolak. The ethnic majority in the county is the Mongondow tribe. The regency of
Bolaang Mongondow was established on 23 March 1954, located in one of the areas of
North Sulawesi which is historically geographically the former lake, as well as a fertile area
of major producers of mines and other produce.

Bolaang Mongondow County has undergone a number of expansion. In 2007 it was

divided into Kotamobagu and North Bolaang Mongondow districts. In 2008 it became the
East Bolaang Mongondow Regency and South Bolaang Mongondow Regency.

Figure 1.1 Illustration of South Bolaang Monondow Regency on a map

Source : Googlemaps

South Bolaang Mongondow Regency is a regency of North Sulawesi Province of

Indonesia which is located on the southern coastline with the capital of Molibagu ± 250 Km
from Manado capital of North Sulawesi province. In Bolaang Mongondow District there is
a Torsik port (Transportation service) . It has a tropical climate with high amount of rainfall

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especially after the western monsoons. Most of its land are situated below sea level, which
makes the district vulnerable to high tide in stormy conditions.

In this final assignment, we studied and obtained hydrographic data, especially wind
and wave data in the South Bolaang Mongondow area. We used secondary data also
obtained from several sources to do comparison and prediction for oceanographic data (we
get the data from ECMWF).

This assignment of knowing wind and wave data is important for my future carrier as
Ocean engineer is because by analyzing wind and wave data obtained, ocean engineers able
to know the physical conditions, wind, waves, and related to characteristic of water body
with make windrose and waverose.

For instance, in the port, the ocean engineers need to ensure the safety and accuracy of
navigation depth. Therefore ocean data need to be collected to know the current, wave
direction, wind and depth of water as criteria to design the port. These data were also
important for the maintenance of coastal and offshore coastal structures as ocean engineers
need to check the design depth and stability of structure over time.

Figure 1.2 Preview of South Bolaang Mongondow Regency in Google Earth

Source: Personal Documentation

1.2 Aim and Purpose

This Assignment that discuss about windrose and waverose hs some aim and purpose.
Aim and purpose from this assignment are:

1. To know the importance of wind and waves data in ocean engineering

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 2. Obtain and process wind and wave data for one year in station from Google earth
3. Process wave data become wind speed and wind direction data in one year in Station
form Google Earth (South Bolaang Mongondow).
4. Make Wind rose and Wave rose from wind speed, wind direction, wave direction
and wave height data for one year for each month.
5. Determine the dominant wind direction and wave direction.

1.3 Data Coverage

This assignment covers data acquisition of wind and waves as well as creating wind
roses and wave roses in the waters of South Bolaang Mongondow Regency.

First, the data collected for this assignment were taken from ECMWF Interim data
which gives information about wind and wave data every 6 hours. ECMWF is a
meteorological and international navigation organization that is not affiliated with the
government and based in Europe. The data used will be a year starting from January 2017
to December 2017.

This assignment consists of 12 wind roses and wave roses for each month, as well as
the accumulation wind rose and wave rose for the whole year of 2017 in South Bolaang
Mongondow Regency which the data will be presented in wind probability percentages by
wind speed scale. After creating the wind and wave roses, I will then do some validation of
the data comparing it with Monsoon Wind that blows in Indonesia. After validating the data,
I will do some analysis and interpretation of the wind roses and wave roses.

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 Chapter 2 Basic Theory
2.1 Primary and Secondary Data
2.1.1 Primary Data
Primary data is data originated for the first time by the researcher through direct
efforts and experience, specifically for the purpose of addressing his research problem. Also
known as the first hand or raw data. Primary data collection is quite expensive, as the
research is conducted by the organization or agency itself, which requires resources like
investment and manpower. The data collection is under direct control and supervision of the
investigator.
The data can be collected through various methods like surveys, observations,
physical testing, mailed questionnaires, questionnaire filled and sent by enumerators,
personal interviews, telephonic interviews, focus groups, case studies, etc.

2.1.2 Secondary Data

Secondary data implies second-hand information which is already collected and
recorded by any person other than the user for a purpose, not relating to the current research
problem. It is the readily available form of data collected from various sources like
censuses, government publications, internal records of the organization, reports, books,
journal articles, websites and so on.

Secondary data offer several advantages as it is easily available, saves time and cost of
the researcher. But there are some disadvantages associated with this, as the data is gathered
for the purposes other than the problem in mind, so the usefulness of the data may be limited
in a number of ways like relevance and accuracy.

2.1.3 Difference between primary and secondary data

The fundamental difference between primary and secondary data is discussed in the
following points:

1. The term primary data refers to the data originating from the researcher for the first
time. Secondary data is data that already exists, collected by the previous
investigation agencies and organizations.
2. Primary data is real-time data whereas secondary data is one that relates to the past.
3. The primary data is collected to address the problem at hand while secondary data is
collected for purposes other than the problems encountered.

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 4. Primary data collection is a very involved process. On the other hand, the process of
collecting secondary data is quick and easy.
5. Primary data collection sources include surveys, observations, experiments,
questionnaires, personal interviews, etc. Conversely, secondary data collection
sources are government publications, websites, books, journal articles, internal
records, etc.
6. The collection of primary data requires a large number of resources such as time,
cost and labor. Conversely, secondary data is relatively inexpensive and fast
available.
7. Primary data is always specific to the needs of researchers, and it controls the
research quality. Conversely, secondary data is not specific to the needs of
researchers, or it has control over data quality.
8. Primary data is available in raw form while secondary data is a subtle form of
primary data. It can also be said that secondary data is obtained when a statistical
method is applied to primary data. Data collected through the main source is more
reliable and accurate than the secondary source.

2.1.4 Comparison between Primary and Secondary Data

Table 2.1 Comparison Chart for Primary and Secondary Data

Basis for Comparison Primary Data Secondary Data

Data Real time data Past data
Process Very involved Quick and easy
Source Surveys, observations, experiments, Government publications,
questionnaire, personal interview, etc. websites, books, journal
articles, internal records etc.
Cost effectiveness Expensive Economical
Collection time Long Short
Specific Always specific to the researcher's May or may not be specific to
needs the researcher's need.
Available in Crude form Refined form
Accuracy and More Relatively less
Reliability

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2.2 Wind and Wave
2.2.1 Wind
Wind is air flowing across the Earth’s surface. Winds are created by differences in
atmospheric pressure that force air to flow from zones of higher pressure to zones of lower
pressure. On the Earth’s surface, the differences in pressure are the result of unequal heating
of the surface by solar energy. The resulting wind patterns are primarily the result of both
the pressure gradient force and the rotation of the Earth. Moreover, Wind is responsible for
the creation of waves. As wind touches the surface of the oceans, it helps the formation of
swell, sometimes far away from continental shores. It is quite easy to understand how wind
is formed.

Figure 2.1 Upwelling and Downwelling

Source: Oceanmotion.org

Wind creates horizontal currents along the ocean surface. Under certain
circumstances, these horizontal currents can cause vertical currents. For example, in the
diagram below, wind is pushing ocean water at the surface toward a landmass. Some of the
moving water will be turned to the left or right, but some will be forced downward. This
process of water from the surface being pushed toward the bottom is known as down
welling. The reverse of this process occurs when a surface current is forced to flow away
from a landmass. Under these conditions water is drawn up from below in a process known
as upwelling.

2.2.2 Wave
The Ocean is never still. Whether are from the beach or a boat, we expect to see
waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to
move in a circular motion. However, water does not travel in waves. Waves transmit energy,
not water, across the ocean and if not obstructed by anything, they have the potential to
travel across an entire ocean basin.

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 Figure 2.2 Wind is the source of the surf

Source: International windsurfing association

Waves are mainly a product of the wind. The best waves for surfing are the result of
the interaction of winds on the surface of the ocean, far away from the coast. Wind is the
first step in the formation of surfable waves. Local shore winds can also produce waves, but
they can also destroy the quality of the breaking waves. Onshore winds are typically known
for creating choppy and bumpy waves because their effect is added to the direction of the
wave.

In a way, offshore winds are a sort of a counterbalance. Swell comes from miles
away and the ground wind works as a "pause-hold" effect on the wave face, allowing longer
unbreakable waves.

Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and
surface water. As the wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the visit
disturbance creates a wave crest. These types of waves are found globally across the open
ocean and along the coast.

Figure 2 Illustration of Wind Generated Wave

Source: onlinelibrary.wiley

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2.3 Comparisson between Wind and Monsoon Season
2.3.1 Monsoon Regions
A monsoon is a seasonal change in the direction of the prevailing, or strongest, winds
of a region. Monsoons cause wet and dry seasons throughout much of the tropics. Monsoons
are most often associated with the Indian Ocean. Monsoons always blow from cold to warm
regions. The summer monsoon and the winter monsoon determine the climate for most of
India and Southeast Asia.

The summer monsoon is associated with heavy rainfall. It usually happens between
April and September. As winter ends, warm, moist air from the southwest Indian Ocean
blows toward countries like India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and Myanmar. The summer
monsoon brings a humid climate and torrential rainfall to these areas.

The Indian Oceans winter monsoon, which lasts from October to April, is less well-
known than its rainy summer equivalent. The dry winter monsoon blows from the northeast.
These winds start in the air above Mongolia and northwestern China.
Winter monsoons are less powerful than summer monsoons in Southeast Asia, in
part because the Himalaya Mountains prevent much of the wind and moisture of the
monsoons from reaching the coast. The Himalayas also prevent much of the cool air from
reaching places like southern India and Sri Lanka, keeping them warm all year. Winter
monsoons are sometimes associated with droughts.
Not all winter monsoons are dry, however. Unlike the western part of Southeast
Asia, the eastern, Pacific coast of Southeast Asia experiences its rainy season in the winter.
The winter monsoon brings moist air from the South China Sea to areas like Indonesia and
Malaysia

Figure 2.3 Illustration of Monsoon Season

Source: WeatherStreet

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2.3.2 Indonesian Monsoon
Three main monsoon systems have been recognized, these are the African, Asian
and Australian monsoon systems. The Asian monsoon is divided into two separate
subsystems, namely an Indian monsoon and an East Asian monsoon. The monsoon over
East Asia is not simply an eastward extension of the Indian monsoon,but a separate
component of the large Asian monsoon system. The important factor for driving the East
Asian monsoons is the existence of heat source and sink regionover the South China Sea
and Australian region. The East Asian monsoon has a verystrong cold winter signature, a
characteristic not possessed by the Indian monsoon system.
The Indonesian monsoon is a part of the East and Southeast Asian monsoon.The
direction of wind over the Indonesian region in boreal mid winter (January) and mid
summer (July). In northern hemisphere winter (December, January,February), monsoon
wind blows from Siberia region toward Australian continent.During this period go on west
to northwest winds over southern hemisphere Indonesia, such as southern Sumatra, Java,
Bali, Lombok, Nusa Tenggara up toPapua. Boreal winter monsoon is called west monsoon
and the season is called west monsoon season, while over northern hemisphere Indonesia,
such as northern Sumatera and West Kalimantan, monsoon wind come from northeast
direction called northeast monsoon and the season is called northeast monsoon season.
In boreal summer, on the contrary wind blows from Australian continent toward
Asian continent. In the region extends from the end of southern Sumatera,Java, Bali,
Lombok, Nusa Tenggara up to Papua, wind direction from east to west called east monsoon
and the season is called east monsoon season, while over northern hemisphere Indonesia,
wind blows from southwest toward northeast called southwest monsoon and the season is
called southwest monsoon season.

Figure 2.4 Mean wind patterns in January (left) and July (right)

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Figure 2.5 Division of season based on the monsoon in Indonesia

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 Chapter 3 Data Results and Analysis

3.1 The Process of Obtaining Data

3.1.1 Collecting the Data from ECMWF

1. Open https://www.ecmwf.int/en/forecasts/datasets
But before we get the data, we must log in first.

2. Choose the data we want to analyze

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3. Choose the area and the grid

4. And then, download the data. Repeat the steps above until we get 12 months data.
(12 times download, I choose January-December 2017)

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 5. We will get data with NC File type.

Figure 3.1 List of NC Files

Source: Personal Documentation

3.1.2 Process the Data

1. After We get 12 months data, We have to export the data using ODV (Ocean Data
View) to a .txt type file.

Figure 3.2 Preview of ODV (Ocean Data View)

Source: Personal Documentation

Figure 3.3 List of .txt Files

Source: Personal Documentation

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2. Then, Move the .txt files to a Microsoft Excel and calculate the wind direction, wind speed.

Figure 3.4 Preview of the Result .txt Files in Excel

Source: Personal Documentation

3. Open MATLAB

Figure 3.5 Script WindRose at MATLAB

Source: Personal Documentation

4. Run the wind speed and wind direction or wave height and wave direction every
month or a year in the file windroseplotPADL.m
5. And we will get the Wind Rose and Wave Rose

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 Figure 3.6 The MATLAB Result of Wind Rose and Wave Rose

3.2 Wind and Wave

3.2.1 Wind Rose

Figure 3.7 Wind Rose January and February 2017

Figure 3.8 Wind Rose March and April 2017

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 Figure 3.9 Wind Rose May and June 2017

Figure 3.10 Wind Rose July and August 2017

Figure 3.11Wind Rose September and October 2017

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 Figure 3.12 Wind Rose November and December 2017

To validate the data we compare the wind direction of the Monsoon in Indonesia to
the data collected from ECMWF. We can see that throughout October to March, the
Monsoon Wind that passes through Indonesia blows from Asia to Australia.

Figure 3.13 Monsoon Wind blowing from Asia to Australia

If we compare the wind direction from ECMWF through the month of January to
March we can see that direction of the wind blows from the North West Direction to the
South West in the area around South Bolaang Mongondow Regency while from October
until December is called the second transitional period. In these months, Indonesia
experiences many rainy and this location have high rainfall because the continental air
masses moves wind South East from Asia towards Australia.

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 Figure 3.14 Monsoon Wind blowing from Australia to Asia

If we compare the wind direction from the ECMWF data in the area around South
Bolaang Mongondow Regency we can see that the direction of wind from April to May, it is
called first transitional period and from June to September the wind blows from the South
West to the North West direction which is the same direction as the Monsoon Wind. In
these months, Indonesia experiences referred to the hot dry season, because continental air
masses moves wind from Australia towards Northwest to Asia.

With the similarity of wind direction of data and Monsoon Wind we can validate
that the data we get from EMCWF is correct.

Figure 3.15 Wind Rose in 2017

Based on the wind rose model above, we can see dominant wind direction in
Bolaang Mongondow Regency. We can also see that the dominant direction of wind

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between October to March was Southwest with an average of 2.4 m/s while from April to
September, the dominant direction of wind is Northwest with the average wind velocity 2.5
m/s. And then maximum wind speed exceeds 7 m/s, and minimum wind speed around 1
m/s. We can see in Wind Rose that the wind direction throughout 2017 blows from
Southwest to Northeast and has an average velocity of 2.45 m/s. As they cause of friction by
sea water so caused the waves.

3.2.2 Wave Rose

Figure 3.16 Wave Rose January and February 2017

Figure 3.17 Wave Rose March and April 2017

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 Figure 3.18 Wave Rose May and June 2017

Figure 3.19 Wave Rose July and August 2017

Figure 3.20 Wave Rose September and October 2017

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 Figure 3.21 Wave Rose November and December 2017

Figure 3.22 Wave Rose in 2017

Based on Waves Rose model that waves in Bolaang Mongondow Regency. We can
see also the dominant direction of wave between October to April is the North-Northeast
with the average wave height of 0.3 m and average wave period of 7.6 s. while from May to
September, the dominant direction of wave is the East-Southeast with the average wave
height 0.29 m and average wave period of 7.6 s. And then maximum wave height exceeds 5
m, and minimum wave height around 0.221 m. Maximum wave period of 8.299 s and
minimum wave period of 6.9 s. We can see in Wave Rose that the wave direction
throughout 2017 was around the Northeast.

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 Chapter 4 Conclusion

In conclusion, to create a wind rose and wave rose. We need to have data such as
wind data on direction and velocity, which later the wave data can be obtained through
hindcasting. However, in this assignment, we use wave data which consist of wave height,
mean wave direction and mean wave period. The data was taken from secondary data
(ECMWF)and then later the data are processed with Ocean Data Viewer (ODV) to be
exported to TXT file(we use excel to open data). Wave and Wind rose can be plot using
MATLAB for each month and the total for 2017. Before analysis, we need to validate the
data, compare it to the Monsoon Wind that blows through Indonesia and the result matches
so we can conclude that the data from ECMWF is correct.

The data shows that the dominant wind direction blows from the Southwest direction
to Northeast direction and has an average velocity of 2.45 m/s while for waves in the South
Bolaang Mongondow Regency has a dominant direction of the waves comes from North–
Northeast throughout 2017 with an average wave height of 0.3 m and average wave period
of 7.6 s.

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 References

https://www.ecmwf.int/en/forecasts/datasets

http://bolselkab.go.id/read/8/profil

https://www.nationalgeographic.org/encyclopedia/monsoon/

http://file.upi.edu/Direktori/SPS/PRODI.PENDIDIKAN_IPA/BAYONG_TJASYONO/The
_Character_of_Rainfall.pdf

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