Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Parts of A Competency-Based Learning Material
Parts of A Competency-Based Learning Material
References/Further Reading
Self Check
Information Sheet
Learning Experiences
Module
Module Content
Content
Module
List of Competencies
Content
Module Content
Module Content
Front Page
In our efforts to standardize CBLM,
the above parts are recommended for
use in Competency Based Training
(CBT) in Technical Education and
Skills Development Authority (TESDA)
Technology Institutions. The next
sections will show you the
components and features of each part.
Sector : CONSTRUCTION
Tables of Contents
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 2
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Page
Front Cover..........................................................................................................i
............................................................................................. 1
Acknowledgement................................................................................................ii
Plan Training Session.........................................................................................iii
1. Student Profile........................................................................................4
2. Data gathering Instrument.....................................................................6
3. Form 1.1 self-assessment checks............................................................9
4. Form 1.2 Evidences/proof of current competencies...............................11
5. Form 1.3 Identifying Training Gaps..........................................12
6. Form 1.4 Training Needs.......................................................................14
Session Plan .....................................................................................................16
Part of Competency-Based Learning Material.....................................................45
CBLM Front Page.................................................................................... 46
Manual Instruction............................................................................................49
List of CORE Competency....................................................................... 50
Module Content.................................................................................................51
Learning Outcome.............................................................................................53
Learning Experience – 3.3-1 PPE.......................................................................55
Information sheet 3.3-1 PPE..............................................................................56
Self Check 3.1-1................................................................................................71
Answer Key 3.1-1...............................................................................................73
• Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
• Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
• Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He is there
to support you and show you the correct way to do things.
• You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the
job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way,
you will improve your speed, memory and your confidence.
• Use the Self-Checks, Operation Sheets or Task or Job Sheets at the end of each
section to test your own progress. Use the Performance Criteria Checklist or
Procedural Checklist located after the sheet to check your own performance.
• When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer
to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module,
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Prepare for laying brick/block for structure.
2. Lay-out/establish brick/block structure location
3. Perform laying brick/block for structure
4. Complete laying of brick/block for structure
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Plans as per job requirement are read and interpreted.
2. Materials, tools and equipment are selected and prepared consistent with job
requirements.
3. Materials are properly stored/stockpiled and freed from foreign matters.
4. Reference building lines are correctly identified/ located as per job requirements.
5. Location of brick/block structure based on reference building lines is established using
batter board at ±3 mm tolerance for proper alignment, squareness and dimension.
6. Lay-out of brick/block structure is correctly marked as per job requirements.
7. Bricks and concrete block laid on the line at minimum allowance at 1/16 in (2 mm).
8. Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line with job requirements.
9. Horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block is installed according to job specification.
10. Reinforcing bar/dowel is installed according required to job specifications.
11. Mortars are spread on the base/edge of brick/block mortar according to job
specifications.
12. Bricks/blocks are positioned/laid according to design/specifications/locations.
13. Constant checking of plumbness is done during brick/block laying.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 6
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
14. Formworks are installed in accordance with building plan.
15. Cast-in place concrete structures are constructed according to design and job
specifications.
16. Work site is cleaned and kept in safe state in line with OHS Regulations.
17. Unexpected situations are responded accordingly.
18. Final checks are made with the foreman to ensure that works conform with
instructions and to requirements.
19. Tools, equipment and any surplus resources and materials are checked in
accordance with established procedures.
20. Work area is maintained as to cleanliness and safety.
Contents:
Assessment Criteria
Conditions
Assessment Method:
1. Interview(oral questionnaire)
2. Written examination
3. Practical demonstration
4. Direct observation
Module 3.3-1 -Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line with job
requirements.
Learning outcomes:
Selection and use of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment.
Learning Activity:
Selecting and using of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment.
Introduction :
Hazards exist in every workplace in many different forms: sharp edges, falling
objects, flying sparks, chemicals, noise and a myriad of other potentially
dangerous situations. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration
(OSHA) requires that employers protect their employees from workplace hazards
that can cause injury.
Hearing protection
Head protection
Eye protection
Foot protection
Body protection
Respiratory protection
PPE is defined in the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations as: ‘All
equipment (including clothing affording protection against the weather) which is
intended to be worn or held by a person at work which protects them against one
or more risks to their health and safety’.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 12
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
PPE includes equipment such as safety footwear, hard hats, high visibility
waistcoats, goggles, life jackets, respirators and safety harnesses.
If items of Personal Protective Equipment are required they must be provided free
of charge by the employer.
PPE must always be regarded as a ‘last resort’ to protect against risks to safety
and health. Engineering controls and safe systems of work must always be
considered first.
For example, it may be possible to do the job using methods that will not require
the use of PPE.
If this is not possible, more effective safeguards should be put in place. For
example, fixed screens could be provided rather than individual eye protection.
There are a number of reasons why PPE must be considered as a ‘last resort’:
PPE only protects the person wearing it, whereas measures controlling
the risk at source protect everyone in the workplace
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 13
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Theoretical maximum levels of protection are difficult to achieve and the
actual level of protection is difficult to assess. Effective protection is
only achieved by selecting suitable PPE and if it is correctly fitted,
maintained and used
PPE may restrict the wearer to some extent by limiting mobility or
visibility, or by requiring additional weight to be carried. Thus creating
additional hazards.
In addition to identifying the need for PPE, it is essential that the right type and
grade of PPE is specified and provided.
The various standards for PPE (e.g. hard hats EN397) are too numerous to list
here on this website. Within the standards there may also be various
subdivisions to denote the standard of protection or type (e.g. ear
muffs/defenders EN352-1, ear plugs EN352-2, helmet mounted muffs/defender
EN352-3).
Since 1 July 1995, all new PPE must be ‘CE’ marked. The CE mark signifies that
the PPE satisfies certain basic/minimum safety requirements.
Suitability of PPE
To be able to choose the right type of PPE, the hazards involved in the task or
work environment must be considered carefully. PPE must also meet the needs
of the individual.
The following factors should be considered when assessing the suitability of PPE:
is the PPE appropriate for the risk involved and conditions at the place where
exposure may occur? e.g. goggles are not suitable when full-face protection is
required
The extent of information, instruction and/or training will vary with the
complexity and performance of the kit. For example, a full Breathing Apparatus
kit will require more training to use properly than a disposable face mask.
Maintaining PPE
The costs associated with the maintenance of PPE are the responsibility of the
employer.
The only exception to this is for those who are classified as self-employed for tax
reasons, but who otherwise work in an employee-employer relationship. In this
case it will be for the employer to provide suitable PPE.
Types of PPE
Hearing protection
Head protection
Turban-wearing Sikhs are exempt from the requirement to wear hard hats on
construction sites by virtue of The Employment Act 1989.
Eye protection
Foot protection
Tasks where hand and arm protection may be required include: the manual
handling of abrasive, sharp or pointed objects, work with vibrating equipment
such as pneumatic drills and chainsaws, construction and outdoor work, work
with chemicals and other hazardous substances (e.g. bodily fluids) and work
with hot or cold materials.
In order to eliminate the risk of ill health through exposure to latex, a number of
organizations have phased out the use of latex gloves replacing them with nitrile.
Body protection
Tasks where body protection may be required include: work with hazardous
substances, work next to the highway or other areas with moving transport or
vehicles (e.g. construction sites), outdoor work, forestry and grounds
maintenance work.
Respiratory protection
-
4. Safety Gloves used for the hand, to avoid
Directly contact with heat or scratches.
6.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 21
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Cover all suit/Apron - is an outer
protective garment that covers
primarily the front of the body
a. Gloves
b. Hard hat
c. Safety shoes
e. Safety goggles
B. True or False
1. Hard hat Class B is hard hats provide impact and penetration resistance
along with limited voltage protection (up to 2,200 volts).
2. Hard hat Class C hard hats provide lightweight comfort and impact protection
but offer no protection from electrical hazards.
3. Goggles. These are tight-fitting eye protection that completely cover the eyes,
eye sockets and the facial area immediately surrounding the eyes and provide
protection from impact, dust and splashes.
A. Matching Type
1. E
2. D
3. B
4. A
5. C
6.
B.
1. False
2. True
3. True
C. ENUMERATION
A. Personal Protective Equipment
1. Hard hat
2. Goggles
3. Safety shoes
4. Gloves
5. Harness
6. Cover-all
7. Face shield
8. Ear muff
9. Mask
Learning outcomes:
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
Learning Activity:
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
Introduction :
It is very important that horizontal/vertical guide is install properly according to
the standard requirement and according to the plan.
Self- Check 3.3-2
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
A.
Match column A with column B
A B
A total measurement of the house or a. Building Lines
the building.
Reinforcement for the concrete b. Stake
hallow blocks, to make it strong.
This is the tools we use to secure c. Dowell
reference line horizontaly.
A piece of wood, it hold the butter d. Plum bub
board and it always use for lay-out.
This tools are always use to keep our e. Level
work straight vertically.
3. To prevent forms from sticking to the concrete, they are treated with:
a. fat
b. paint
c. form oil
d. wax
A. Matching Type
1. A
2. C
3. E
4. B
5. D
1. D
2. D
3. C
4. B
5. D
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and
identification of materials
Block dowels.
When placing a concrete foundation which will have concrete masonry
units (block) erected on it, you will usually find the plans require installing block
dowels, or vertical rebar to reinforce cells at a required spacing to give the
subsequent block wall sufficient strength to withstand conditions to which it will
be exposed, or to help it support loads it will carry as an overall part of the
structure you are building. These bars are tied to the foundation rebar (footing
bars) in a location that will place them in the center of individual block cells. For
them to be placed correctly, you will need to establish the wall line, then
determine the spacing of these cells. If your layout begins at a corner, using
8X16 inch regular block, you can place the first dowel 4 inches inside the
outside wall line, 4 inches from the corner, then space additional bars at their
required distances in multiples of 8 inches. For example, at 16, 24, or 32 inch
centers. This is known as blockwork spacing.
Note that in structural concrete, other types of imbeds and inserts may be
required. Place rebar in such a manner as to allow installation of anchor bolts,
sleeves, embedded weld plates, inserts, or other items in their respective correct
locations without interference. In general terms, these items require more precise
positioning, so offsetting one or two rebars may be required.
Chair or support your rebar. Once the mat or cage is assembled, you must hold
it in position so the the concrete will cover it completely. Rebar chairs or concrete
brick are often used for this purpose. Place these positioners at a spacing that
will not allow the rebar to bend or deflect enough to reduce the coverage you
wish to obtain with the concrete you place in you forms. For a inch thick footing,
the rebar mat is usually placed about 4 inches from the bottom of the concrete,
and side clearances range from 2 to 4 inches.
Before you place reinforcing steel in forms, all form oiling should be completed.
Oil on reinforcing bars should be avoided because it reduces the bond between
the bars and the concrete. Use a piece of burlap to remove rust, mill scale,
grease, mud, or other foreign matter from the bars. A light film of rust or mill
scale is not objectionable.
Bars are marked to show where they will fit. You may work according to either
one of the two most-used systems for marking bars; however, the system you use
should agree with the marking system which appears on the engineering or
assembly drawings. The two marking systems used are as follows:
1. All bars in one type of member are given the mark of that member. This
system is used for column bars, beam bars, footing bars, and so on.
2. The bars are marked in greater detail. These marks show exactly where the
bar is to be placed. In addition to the type member (that is, beam (B), wall (W),
column (C), and so on), the marks show the floor on which the bars are to be
placed and the size and individual number of each particular bar. Instead of
showing the bar size by its diameter measurement, the mark shows the bar size
in code by eighths. The examples shown below show the second type of marking
system.
Tie wire is used to hold rebar in place to ensure that when concrete is placed the
bars do not shift out of position. Sixteen gauge wire is used to tie
Table 7-6.-Multishearing
reinforcing bars. About 12 pounds (5.4 kg) of wire is required to tie an average
ton (0.9 tome) of bars. NOTE: Tie wire adds nothing to the strength of the steel.
A number of different types of ties can be used with reinforcing bars; some are
more effective than others. Figure 7-17 shows six types of ties that are identified
below according to the letters of the alphabet used to show individual ties.
A. SNAP TIE or SIMPLE TIE. The wire is simply wrapped once around the two
crossing bars in a diagonal manner with the two ends on top. These are twisted
together with a pair of sidecutters until they are very tight against the bars. Then
the loose ends of the wire are cut off. This tie is used mostly on floor slabs.
B. WALL TIE. This tie is made by going about 1 1/2 times around the vertical
bar, then diagonally around the intersection, twisting the two ends together until
the connection is tight, but without breaking the tie wire, then cutting off the
excess. The wall tie is used on light vertical mats of steel.
D. SADDLE TIE. The wires pass halfway around one of the ban on either side of
the crossing bar and are brought squarely or diagonally around the crossing bar
with the ends twisted together and cut off. This tie is used on special locations,
such as on walls.
E. SADDLE TIE WITH TWIST. This tie is a variation of the saddle tie. The tie
wire is carried completely around one of the bars, then squarely across and
halfway around the other, either side of the crossing bars, and finally brought
together and twisted either squarely or diagonally across. The saddle tie with
twist is used for heavy mats that are to be lifted by a crane.
F. CROSS TIE or FIGURE-EIGHT TIE. This type of tie has the advantage of
causing little or no twist in the bars.
The proper location for the reinforcing bars is usually given on drawings (table 7-
7). In order for the structure to withstand the loads it must carry, place the steel
in the position shown. Secure the bars in position in such a way that concrete-
placing operations will not move them. This can be accomplished by the use of
the reinforcing bar supports shown in figures 7-18, 7-19, and 7-20.
The proper coverage of bars in the concrete is very important to protect the bars
from fire hazards, possibility of corrosion, and exposure to weather. When not
specified, minimum standards given below and in figure 7-21 should be
observed.
FOOTINGS-3 inches at the sides where concrete is cast against the earth and on
the bottoms of footings or other principal structural members where concrete is
deposited on the ground.
WALLS-2 inches for bars larger than No. 5, where concrete surfaces, after
removal of forms, would be exposed to the weather or be in contact with the
ground; 1 1/2 inches for No. 5 bars and smaller; 3/4 inch from the faces of all
walls not exposed directly to the ground or the weather.
BEAMS AND GIRDERS-1 1/2 inches to the nearest bars on the top, bottom, and
sides.
JOISTS AND SLABS-3/4 inch on the top, bottom, and sides of joists and on the
top and the bottom of slabs where concrete surfaces are not exposed directly to
the ground or the weather.
NOTE: All measurements are from the outside of the bar to the face of the
concrete, NOT from the main steel, unless otherwise specified.
Footings and other principal structural members that are against the ground
should have at least 3
Figure 7-20.-Rebar hung in place.
inches (76.2 mm) of concrete between the steel and the ground. If the concrete
surface is to be in contact with the ground or exposed to the weather after
removal of the forms, the protective covering of concrete over the steel should be
2 inches (50.8 mm). It maybe reduced to 1 1/2inches (38.1 mm) for beams and
columns and 3/4 inch (19.5 mm) for slabs and interior wall surfaces, but it
should be 2 inches (50.8 mm) for all exterior wall surfaces. This measurement is
taken from the main rebar, not the stirrups or the ties.
NOTE: Where splices in reinforcing steel are not dimensioned on the drawings,
the bars should be lapped not less than 30 times the bar diameter nor less than
12 inches (table 7-7). The stress in a tension bar
To lap-weld wire fabric/wire mesh, you can use a number of methods, two of
which are the end lap and the side lap. In the end lap method, the wire mesh is
lapped by overlapping one full mesh, measured from the ends of the longitudinal
wires in one piece to the ends of the longitudinal wires in the adjacent piece, and
then tying the two pieces at 1-foot 6-inch (45.0 cm) centers with a snap tie. In
the side lap method, the two longitudinal side wires are placed one alongside and
overlapping the other and then are tied with a snap tie every 3 feet (.9 m).
Reinforcing bars are in tension and therefore should never be bent around an
inside corner beams. They can pull straight through the concrete cover. Instead,
they should overlap and extend to the far face for anchorage with 180-degree
hooks and proper concrete coverage (fig. 7-23).
The bars can also be spliced by metal are welding but only if called for in the
plans and specifications. For bars which are placed in a vertical position, a butt
weld is preferred. The end of the bottom bar is cut
Figure 7-23.-Correct and Incorrect placement of reinforcement for an inside
corner.
square, and the end of the top bar resting on it is cut in a bevel fashion, thus
permitting a butt weld. For bars which will bear a load in a horizontal position, a
fillet weld is preferred. Usually, the two bars are placed end to end (rather than
overlapping), and pieces of flat bar (or angle iron) are placed on either side. Fillet
welds are then made where the metals join. The welds are made to a depth of one
half of the bar diameter and for a length eight times the bar diameter.
The minimum clear distance between parallel bars in beams, footings, walls, and
floor slabs should either be 1 inch (25.4 mm) or 1 1/3 times the largest size
aggregate particle in the concrete, whichever distance is greater. In columns, the
clear distance between parallel bars should be not less than 1 1/2 times the bar
diameter or 1 1/2 times the maximum size of the coarse aggregate. Always use
the larger of the two.
The support for reinforcing steel in floor slabs is shown in figure 7-24. The height
of the slab bolster is determined by the required concrete protective cover.
Concrete blocks made of sand-cement mortar can be used in place of the slab
bolster. Wood blocks should never be used for this purpose. Highchairs (fig. 7-
18) can be obtained in heights up to 6 inches (15 cm). When a height greater
than 6 inches is required, make the chair out of No. 0, soft, annealed iron wire.
To hold the bars firmly in position, you should tie the bars together at frequent
intervals where they cross with a snapat.
Steel for column ties may be assembled with the verticals into cages by laying
the vertical bars for one side of the column horizontally across a couple of
sawhorses. The proper number of ties are slipped over the bars, the remaining
vertical bars are added, and then the ties are spaced out as required by the
placing plans. All intersections are wired together to make the assembly rigid so
that it may be hoisted and set as a unit. Figure 7-25 shows atypical column tie
assembly.
After the column is raised, it is tied to the dowels or reinforcing steel carried up
from below. This holds it firmly in position at the base. The column form is
erected and the reinforcing steel is tied to the column form at 5-foot (4.5-m)
intervals, as shown in figure 7-26.
The use of metal supports to hold beam reinforcing steel in position is shown in
figure 7-8. Note the position of the beam bolster. The stirrups are tied to the
main reinforcing steel with a snap tie. Wherever possible you should assemble
the stirrups and main reinforcing steel outside the form and then place the
assembled unit in position. Precast concrete blocks, as shown in figure 7-27,
maybe substituted for metal supports.
The horizontal and vertical bars are wired securely to each other at sufficiently
frequent intervals to make a rigid mat. Tying is required at every second or third
intersection, depending upon the size and spacing of bars, but with not less than
three ties to any one bar, and, in any case, not more than 4 to 6 feet apart in
either direction.
Steel in place in a wall. The wood block is removed when the form has been filled
up to the level of the block For high walls, ties in between the top and bottom
should be used.
Steel is placed in footings very much as it is placed in floor slabs. Stones, rather
than steel supports, may be used to support the steel at the proper distance
above the subgrade. Steel mats in small footings are generally preassembled and
placed after the forms have been set. Steel mats in large footings are constructed
in place.
Tips
Keep rebar stored on dunnage to prevent rusting, and to keep bars from
becoming buried in soft soils. Any build up of iron oxide (rust) will exacerbate
spalling later on.
Buy quality tools if you plan to do a lot of rebar tying. Cheap wire reels and pliers
won't hold up to the wear and tear of daily use.
Double check the rebar placement drawings, especially for dowels, since
misplaced dowels must be cut off, and new ones epoxied in the correct location,
at considerable expense.
Warnings
Wear the correct safety equipment for this work. Gloves are especially important
to protect the rodbuster's hands.
Rebar ends and the ends of cut tie wire can be incredibly sharp.
Impalement protection caps are required by law.
Reinforcement Detailing
cavity wall
Reinforcement placed in Units with bed joint
the bed joints of grooved reinforcement
1. D
2. D
3. A
4. C
5. A
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 3 - PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE
Concrete Blocks
When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials. Bricks are
smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are also available. Blocks are
bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be categorized as either
masonry or fair face.
There are two types of masonry concrete blocks. Solid masonry blocks
have rough, unfinished surfaces and require plaster and paint of proper finish.
These vary in strength from 600 to 800 pounds per square inch (psi) and 1,000
to 1,200 psi. The usual sizes include: 4"x 8"x 12", 5"x 8"x 12" and 8"x 8"x12".
Hollow blocks are used for exterior south walls (facing the sun) as the
cavity within. The block decreases heat gain. The hollowness of the block
decreases he weight bearing. Capacity of the wall and they should not be used
for load bearing purposes. Sizes include 4" x 8"x 12", 5"x 8"x12" and 8"x 8" x 12".
The two types of fair face blocks are solid and cellular. Solid blocks are
steam cured, have a finish and smooth surface that do not require plaster or
paint. Available in natural, grey finish and pigmented finish in terracotta, yellow
and mud colours, they come in two sizes: 4"x 8"x 16"and 6"x 8"x 16".
Cellular blocks have a cavity and offers the same function as masonry
hollow blocks; they are available in here sizes: 4"x 8"x 16", 6"x 8"x 16"and 8"x
8"x16".
NOTE :
For 200 mm and 150 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1:6& for
100 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1: 4
280 cm
120
cm
This table will help you estimate the number of blocks and the amount of
mortar you'll need for your job. Use this table to help you estimate the
number of blocks and mortar needed for your project.
Before starting to lay the blocks, drive stakes into the ground and build a
form at each corner. These stakes and forms can be made from scrap
pieces of wood used on the job.
Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form to the
other as illustrated. The exact corner will be the point at which the two
lines cross.
Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point where the
lines cross and at positions about 2' out in each direction.
Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course by
laying out a course of block on the dry concrete. Do not use mortar for this
test run–you are merely determining the number of blocks required for the
job.
Be sure to use the corner blocks where needed, and cut blocks as
required.
Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint between each
block. This is the thickness of the mortar when applied.
After this test run, remove the blocks and prepare for the actual laying of
the first course.
Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This furrow will
force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is laid.
Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block (finished
end).
Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and take
time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with this
starter block, so it's very important to set it exactly.
Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the first
course out about two or three blocks in each direction.
Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner blocks
on the first course.
Continue to lay the base mortar on the footing as the course continues.
Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel and place the block in
position.
After you've laid four or five blocks, use a long mason's level or some type
of straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks. Check both the tops
of the blocks and the outside edge for correct alignment.
Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while the
mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the concrete begins
to set.
Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or two
higher than other runs until you finish the job.
Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will help you
keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be careful not to knock
the lines out of alignment.
Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of position,
take a minute to level it.
Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus mortar
back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with your trowel
throughout the project so small portions will not harden.
Use a piece of 3/4" ply-board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a
mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before placing
the mortar in it.
Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a half or
two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a piece of plastic to
hold in moisture.
Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and build the
wall to the desired height.
Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up.
Keep a leveling string at the top of each course on each run of block.
Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every two or three
runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the block corners to check for
accuracy. If the blocks are being laid accurately, the corners will strike
evenly along a level held in this position.
After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be pressed with
the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints to the appearance
desired. Keep the jointer wet during this part of the job.
You may need to add reinforcing rods to walls built extremely high or in
areas where ground pressures may vary.
Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped 2" to 3".
Mortar can be placed directly over the rods.
If wood framing will be attached to the top run, set an anchor bolt every 3'
to 4' in the last run.
4. Blocks are bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be categorized as
either masonry or fair face? _________
5. When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials. Bricks are
smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are also available? _____
Steps/Procedure:
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and identification of
materials.
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need to use
based on the given drawing and make a request to withdraw
from the store room.
3. Read and follow the operating procedure of the electrically
operated equipment as well as the manually operated
equipment.
4. Follow the entire safety requirement during the operation of the
equipment.
5. Check all the tools, materials and equipment if it is in good
condition before performing the job.
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
7. Make a lay-out for the project according to the plan
requirement.
8. Make stake and follow building lines.
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to the plan
requirement.
10. Mixed a mortar according to the mix proportion needed of
the project.
11. Lay block/brick according to the plan specification.
12. Always aligned every layer based on the nylon string.
13. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5) layer and wait to
make it strong and dry.
14. Secure the cleanliness of the area before and after to do a
job.
15. After all the instruction above is complete and good proceed
to the other job.
16. After performing the job, go to your trainer to assess and
evaluate your work.
Assessment Method: Actual demonstration with oral questioning
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3-4
Brick/block laying procedures
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and
identification of materials
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 3 - PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Know the importance of safety in workplace.
2. Know the right and the privilege of the workers in safety .
3. Apply all the provision in the safety regulation in workplace.
Definition
Since 1950, the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the World Health
Organization (WHO) have shared a common definition of occupational health. It
was adopted by the Joint ILO/WHO Committee on Occupational Health at its
first session in 1950 and revised at its twelfth session in 1995. The definition
reads:
"Occupational health should aim at: the promotion and maintenance of the
highest degree of physical, mental and social well-being of workers in all
occupations; the prevention amongst workers of departures from health caused
by their working conditions; the protection of workers in their employment from
risks resulting from factors adverse to health; the placing and maintenance of
the worker in an occupational environment adapted to his physiological and
psychological capabilities; and, to summarize, the adaptation of work to man and
of each man to his job.
"The main focus in occupational health is on three different objectives: (i) the
maintenance and promotion of workers’ health and working capacity; (ii) the
improvement of working environment and work to become conducive to safety
and health and (iii) development of work organizations and working cultures in a
direction which supports health and safety at work and in doing so also
promotes a positive social climate and smooth operation and may enhance
productivity of the undertakings. The concept of working culture is intended in
this context to mean a reflection of the essential value systems adopted by the
undertaking concerned. Such a culture is reflected in practice in the managerial
systems, personnel policy, principles for participation, training policies and
quality management of the undertaking."
The Occupational Safety and Health Act states that every working Filipino has
the right to a safe and healthy work environment. The Occupational Safety and
Health Administration (OSHA) is the federal agency created to enforce the
Occupational Safety and Health Act.
Workplace Hazards
1. Physical and mechanical hazards
2. Biological hazards
3. Chemical hazards
4. Psychological and social issues
Self- Check 3.3-5
OHS regulations
Geography
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
"Geographical" redirects here. For the magazine of the Royal Geographical Society,
see Geographical (magazine). For other uses, see Geography (disambiguation).
The page "Kind of soil" does not exist. You can ask for it to be created, but
consider checking the search results below to see whether the topic is already
covered.
For search help, please visit Help:Searching.
Serpentine soil
A serpentine soil is derived from ultramafic rocks, in particular serpentinite ,
a ...concentrations in serpentine soils as in most other kinds of soils. ...
Soil
Pedotope
Soil quality
Soil quality is the capacity of a specific kind of soil to function, within natural
or managed ecosystem boundaries, to sustain plant and ...
Tillage
Arikaree Breaks
Tiarellacordifolia
It grows in most kinds of soil and blooms from April to June. Description:
Tiarellacordifolia has a scaly horizontal rhizome and seasonal ...
Pamid
It does not need any particular kind of soil, but the grapes with best quality are
cultivated in hilly areas with light drained soils. ...
The name Balagasan came from the word “Balagas”, which means
a kind of soil with plenty of bolders and easily eroded. When American’s ...
Brown podzolic
His body was pure from any kind of soil and impurity. Then I heard also the
singing of the angels, which was of miraculous sweetness and ...
Soil morphology
Soil biomantle
Bato, Catanduanes (section Soil classification)
Ecology (section Soils)
ecologists may adopt different kinds of statistical methods, such as ... soils
Paleoecological studies of soils places the origin for ...
Glyphosate (section Soil degradation, and effects on micro-organism and
worms)
found in Swedish forest soils up to two years after a glyphosate application
Glyphosate adsorption to soil varies depending on the kind of soil ...
MusiBanyuasin Regency (section Soil)
5. The name ____________ came from the word “Balagas”, which means
a kind of soil with plenty of bolders and easily eroded
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Balagasan
d. Arikaree Breaks
ANSWER KEY 3.3-6
Geographical orientation to Perform laying brick/block for structure
A. Matching Type
1. B
2. C
3. D
4. A
5. C
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 3 - PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE
Module 3.3-7 - Mensuration to Perform laying brick/block for structure
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet 3.3-7
Mensuration to Perform laying
brick/block for structure
2. Answer Self-check 3.3-7 Compare answers with the answer
Mensuration to Perform laying key. You are required to get all
brick/block for structure answers correct. If not, read the
information sheets again to answer
all questions correctly.
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Learn how to read and interpreted measuring tools.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
4. Lear how to convert metric system.
In the metric system of measurement, designations of multiples and sub-divisions of any unit may
be arrived at by combining with the name of the unit the prefixes deka, hecto, and kilo meaning,
respectively, 10, 100, and 1000, and deci, centi, and milli, meaning, respectively, one-tenth, one-
hundredth, and one-thousandth. In some of the following metric tables, some such multiples and
sub-divisions have not been included for the reason that these have little, if any currency in actual
usage.
In certain cases, particularly in scientific usage, it becomes convenient to provide for multiples
larger than 1 000 and for subdivisions smaller than one-thousandth. Accordingly, the following
prefixes have been introduced and these are now generally recognized:
Units of Length
10 millimeters (mm) = 1 centimeter (cm)
10 centimeters = 1 decimeter (dm) = 100 millimeters
10 decimeters = 1 meter (m) = 1000 millimeters
10 meters = 1 dekameter (dam)
10 dekameters = 1 hectometer (hm) = 100 meters
10 hectometers = 1 kilometer (km) = 1000 meters
Units of Area
100 square millimeters (mm2) = 1 square centimeter (cm2)
100 square centimeters = 1 square decimeter (dm2)
100 square decimeters = 1 square meter (m2)
100 square meters = 1 square dekameter (dam2) = 1 are
= 1 square hectometer (hm2) = 1 hectare
100 square dekameters
(ha)
100 square hectometers = 1 square kilometer (km2)
In these tables where foot or mile is underlined, it is survey foot or U.S. statute mile rather than
international foot or mile that is meant.
Units of Length
12 inches (in) = 1 foot (ft)
3 feet = 1 yard (yd)
16-1/2 feet = 1 rod (rd), pole, or perch
40 rods = 1 furlong (fur) = 660 feet
8 furlongs = 1 U.S. statute mile (mi) = 5280 feet
1852 meters = 6076.115 49 feet (approximately)
= 1 international nautical mile
Units of Area3
144 square inches (in2) = 1 square foot (ft2)
9 square feet = 1 square yard (yd2,)
= 1296 square inches
272-1/4 square feet = 1 square rod (sqrd)
160 square rods = 1 acre = 43 560 square feet
640 acre = 1 square mile (mi2)
1 mile square = 1 section of land
6 miles square = 1 township
= 36 sections = 36 square miles
40 cm
10 cm
20 cm
15 feet b. 12 inches
1 foot c. 1000 mm
1 Meter d. 3000 mm
1 cm e. 180 inches
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 3 - PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE
Module 3.3-8 -Basic operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure.
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet 3.3-8
Basic operations for Perform laying
brick/block for structure.
2. Answer Self-check 3.3-8 Compare answers with the answer
Basic operations for Perform laying key. You are required to get all
brick/block for structure answers correct. If not, read the
information sheets again to answer
all questions correctly.
3. Follow Operation sheet 3.3-8 Follow the operation sheet 3.3-8 if
Operate concrete mixer machine. you are going to use the concrete
mixer machine.
4. Task sheet 3.3-8 Use thePerformance Criteria
Checklist 3.3-8 to evaluate your own
Basic operations for Perform laying
brick/block for structure work.
Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with
job requirements .
3. Familiar about Bricks and Blocks.
4. Procedure how to lay a Block/brick for structure.
5. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
Need to consider:
Types of Blocks
1. Standard Dimensions:
2. Block Style
a. Hollow or Solid - Hollow spaces are called cores; a solid unit has a core
area of 25% or less of the total cross-sectional area.
b. Heavyweight or Lightweight - Heavyweight units weigh approximately 40-
50 lbs. while the lightweight units weigh approximately 25-35 lbs. The
difference in weight is due to the different types of aggregates used in
manufacture.
3. Block Shapes
a. Stretcher - This is the most commonly used block for straight wall runs; it
has slight extensions called ears on each end which form a core when laid
end to end. (2 or 3 core)
b. Corner - same as a stretcher except that one end is smooth; it is used at
the end or corner of a wall.
c. Half Block - both ends are smooth; it is used for openings and ends of
walls.
d. Sash or Jamb - have special grooves for the installation of windows or
doors.
e. Miscellaneous - solid top, partition, bull nose, half-height, lintel; each has a
special application.
C. Job Estimation
a) One foot (12 inches) is 12/8 or 3/2 or 1 1/2 of the height of a block.
b) The height can then be multiplied by 1 1/2 to determine the number of
courses needed.
a. Purchase approximately 2 1/2 bags of masonry cement and 667 lbs. of mortar
sand for each 100 blocks.
Basic Operation
Building a foundation may seem an impossible under taking, but when you
understand the steps involved & can break them into individual skills, the task
is much more manageable.
Laying the foundation for a simple addition is also easier because the project is
on a relatively small scale & you will be able to use the existing foundation to
guide layout, leveling, & finishing details. In fact, the most difficult part of many
addition foundations is getting materials & equipment into a tight backyard— &
getting excavated dirt out of it.
The first step in building a foundation is to set up string lines to establish the
outside edges of the foundation wall (not the foundation footing), the limits of
excavation, exact location of footing trenches, & accurate placement of concrete
blocks or form boards for foundation walls. String lines are usually stretched
between temporary batter boards & can be taken down & put back up as
needed. Because an addition abuts the house along at least one wall, you can
use the house instead of batter boards for that side.
Laying out the foundation: Siding & sheathing removed to expose foundation &
structural members; Plumb line at edge of new addition; Equal measurement
indicates string is parallel to side of house; Corner stakes beneath string
crossings; Obstruction; Existing foundation.
If your addition will be close to the setback limits of your property, verify the
property lines. Your building inspection department may even re quire a certified
survey.
You will need one or two helpers to lay out string lines. The following procedure
is for a simple rectangular addition, but similar techniques can be used for more
complex additions.
1. Mark where outside edges of new foundation will intersect house foundation.
Using level to keep lines plumb, scribe vertical lines onto siding at these two
points. (No line is necessary if addition wall lines up with corner of house.) If
edge of addition lines up with one interior wall, take accurate measurements
from inside house & drill pilot holes from outside to make sure your line on
siding corresponds with outside edge of intersecting wall stud.
Scribe a cutting line farther out from foundation line to allow for thickness of
new siding on addition wall, depending on how new siding will be joined with old
later on.
2. Remove siding & sheathing covering top of house foundation between marks.
Remove enough to ex pose floor joists & subfloor to save doing it later. Use
circular saw to make cuts, setting blade deep enough to cut through siding &
sheathing but not into framing or foundation. Use carbide blade.
3. Study your plans & existing floor structure to establish where top of new
foundation will be in relation to existing foundation. Even if they appear level,
don’t assume that dimensions of new & old joists, mud sill, subflooring, & other
lumber are the same. Modern lumber is milled to smaller dimensions than old
lumber, & accumulated differences can make new floor lower than existing floor
if you line up the foundations at the same level.
4. Once you have established top level of new foundation, mark that point on
house framing or foundation by measuring from top of existing subfloor. Mark
each corner of new foundation. Attach string line to each point, driving a nail
into house framing or into cleat nailed into house framing. Tie nylon string, not
cotton, to nails driven firmly into wood at angle so string does not slide up or
down when pulled taut. To make sure strings are level with each other, use
transit, water level, or long carpenter’s level set on a straightedge. If they are not
level, lower string at higher corner to level with the one attached to lower corner.
Adjust difference later when you frame floor. Make sure both nails are aligned
vertically with marks indicating edge of new foundation wall.
(top) Using a water level; (bottom) Using a transit: Find a spot from which you
can see all the batter boards clearly. Level the transit at the level you want &
rotate it so you can tell your helper where to mark.
5. Build batter boards for other ends of string lines by driving two sharpened 2
by 4s into ground about 3 feet apart & nailing level cross- pieces to back sides at
level where string lines are attached to house foundation. Set batter boards 6 to
10 feet beyond addition corners so they don't interfere with excavating & form
building.
6. Stretch the two string lines & tie to 6-penny (6d) nails driven into tops of
batter boards. To locate nails so lines are parallel to each other & perpendicular
to house wall, stretch one string line taut so it touches top of batter board. Slide
it right or left along top of crosspiece until it's perfectly square to house. Drive
nail into batter board at that point. Use “ 3-4-5 triangle” (a series of three
measurements that form right triangle) to determine when lines are square. The
two legs are 3 feet & 4 feet; the hypotenuse is 5 feet. For greater accuracy use
longer measurements that are multiples of 3, 4, & 5 feet (for example, 9-12-15 or
12-16-20).
Pull second string line to second batter board & move right or left until lines are
an equal distance apart at both ends. Set nail into batter board at that point &
tie string line to it.
7. Build batter boards for fourth side of addition perpendicular to first two batter
boards & set back 6 to 10 feet beyond corners. If cross-pieces are long enough,
attach one end to original batter board stake & other to new 2 by 4 stake,
forming L-shaped batter board at each corner. Both crosspieces must be level
with string lines.
8. Stretch string line between two batter boards parallel to house & intersecting
first two string lines at exact length of the two side walls of new foundation.
You can excavate foundation trenches by hand if your addition is small & has
shallow footings (12 to 15 inches deep). If it has deep footings, a basement, or a
sunken crawl space, you will need to hire a back- hoe service or rent a tractor
with a backhoe.
To excavate, lay out excavation lines on ground with chalk, flour, or spray paint.
They should be far enough outside string lines to allow for footing width plus
work space (1 to 2 feet beyond outside edge of footing & canted outward toward
the top).
If soil is unstable or the excavation is more than 5 feet deep, cant sides outward
at least 45 degrees or shore them up to prevent cave-ins.
Slab Foundation
In moderate climates the slab & footing are poured as one unit. After you have
removed 3 or 4 inches of soil from inside the perimeter & excavated the footing
trenches, follow these steps.
1. Build forms around outside edge with 2-by lumber held by stakes every 1 1/2
to 3 feet. Use string lines to align forms & level top edge, which should be at least
8 inches above grade. Trench walls form footing.
2. Dig trenches for any pipes running under the slab, & then backfill over them.
3. Place 3 to 4 inches of sand or gravel inside perimeter of slab, cover with
polyethylene vapor barrier, & cover barrier with 2 inches of sand.
4. Place horizontal reinforcing bars in trenches, resting bottom bar on dobies
(small concrete blocks) & suspending top bar with tie wire hooked onto top of
form. Tie vertical rebar onto horizontal bars.
5. Place steel reinforcing mesh over sand & under slab. Tie mesh to rebar in
trench & place 2-inch dobies under it every 3 or 4 feet.
In climates requiring deeper footings, slab & footings are usually poured
separately. If the slab is to rest on the footings, the trenches are adequate for
footing forms. Just place horizontal rebar in trenches, fill with concrete, & place
hooked lengths of rebar in fresh concrete to tie footing & slab together. Then
build a slab form as described above; place gravel or sand, a vapor barrier, &
another layer of sand within perimeter; tie reinforcing wire mesh to curved hooks
embedded in footing wall; & pour slab.
If footing walls extend above grade & slab is poured within them, you should
build footing walls the same as perimeter foundation. Prepare & pour slab as
described above, placing special filler material between foundation wall & slab to
form an isolation joint.
Slab foundation: 6” wire mesh held above plastic with dobies; Slab at least 4”
thick & 8” above grade; Anchor bolts no more than 6’ apart & no more than 12”
from end of any mudsill; Footing 12” to 15” wide & deep enough to reach below
frost line; Splice rebar by overlapping & tying with wire; 6-mil polyethylene over
gravel; 3” to 1/4” layer of sand or gravel; Rebar reinforcing in footing; Hooked
rebar ties slab to footing; Rebar dowels drilled into old foundation; Existing
foundation; Existing house.
Perimeter Foundation
For shallow foundations the footing & wall are poured together. For deeper
foundations with higher walls the footing is poured first, & the wall is then
formed & poured separately, or it's constructed of concrete blocks.
To build a perimeter foundation of concrete blocks, follow the steps for a full
basement foundation. To build a concrete “inverted-T” foundation, follow these
steps.
Forms &rebars for a perimeter foundation: The inside form is placed in the same
way as the outside form. The inside & outside forms are then tied together with
spacers & tie-straps. Steel tie-strap.
5. Mark locations for anchor bolts on forms & have bolts handy for day of pour,
or build jigs in order to position bolts before the pour. Bolts are usually 1/2 by
10 inches for residential foundations.
6. A girder is usually required to support floor between foundation walls for joist
spans longer than 16 feet. Note location of posts & excavate for pier footings at
these points. Minimum footing dimensions are 18 by 18 inches & 12 inches
below grade. Build simple box form to straddle footing hole, at least 8 inches
square & 8 inches high. Pour pier & footing together & insert post- framing
anchor into wet concrete.
If the walls are concrete they will need tall forms, a job for which you should hire
professionals. If the walls are concrete block, you can build the basement
foundation using the following steps.
1. Excavate 8 inches below floor level, to allow for 4-inch slab & 4 inches of
gravel. Check plans for other thicknesses that must be accounted for, such as
insulation.
2. Dig footing trenches deep enough to pour slab over them after wall is finished.
(For example, footing 12 inches deep requires trench 8 inches deep if gravel bed
is 4 inches thick.)
3. Build forms along hp of trench with 2-by lumber. Set height by measuring
down from string lines a distance equally divisible by measurement of concrete
block & mortar so blocks will come out even at top of foundation wall. Make tops
of forms as level as possible, with no more than 1/2 inch variance along entire
form. Hold forms in place with 1 by 2 stakes every 2 feet & 1 by 2 ties across top.
4. Place horizontal rebar in forms, holding it off ground with the help of 3-inch
dobies.
5. Order pieces of vertical rebar (which usually has a hook at bottom) cut to
length & bent as specified in plans. Mark their locations on form boards so
blocks will slip over them, & have them available for pour. Do not drive them into
ground.
Full basement foundation: New floor joists; Existing footing & basement wall;
Grade; Waterproof membrane; New concrete or concrete block; Gravel & drain
pipe
Footing forms for a basement foundation: Canted sides of excavation or approved
shoring; Rebar held 3” above bottom with dobies; Multiple of concrete block
height; String to bailer boards marks top of foundation.
No matter what kind of foundation you’re constructing, you’ll need to work with
concrete. This section tells you how to order, pour, & finish it.
Tying new foundation to old: Wire support for rebar; Existing foundation; 30”
pieces of rebar cemented into holes in existing foundation & wired to rebar in the
new foundation
Working with rebar. Plans for most residential foundations specify #4 rebar,
which is 5/8-inch in diameter. This size can be cut & bent fairly easily. Larger
sizes are more difficult to handle.
Use special cutting & bending tool for rebar, or cut it with metal cutoff blade in a
circular saw or hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw. The advantage of the
specialized tool is that it also bends rebar.
Splice rebar with tie wire. Codes specify that two pieces overlap by at least 40
diameters (equaling 20 inches for #4 bar) Codes also specify “concrete cover”
(minimum thickness of concrete surrounding rebar). Where concrete is below
grade, rebar must be placed at least 3 inches from ground on all sides. Where
concrete is above grade, cover must be at least 1½-inches.
Pouring concrete against wood. If new foundation wall will be higher than
existing wall, due to sloping site or other conditions, protect wood portions of
existing house against direct contact with new concrete. Tack aluminum sheet
metal or other approved flashing against ex posed wood framing or sheathing
before pouring concrete against it.
Amount (in cubic yards). Estimate cubic yards by calculating cubic feet &
dividing by 27. Once you have carefully figured the volume needed, add at least 5
percent for waste. It’s better to order too much than too little. Just decide before
delivery where to pour the excess.
Aggregate size. Use 3/4-inch aggregate for most jobs, although some codes
require a specific size. If you are having the concrete pumped, check with the
pumping company to see if their hoses will handle the size aggregate you are
using.
Cement content. This is specified as the number of sacks of cement per cubic
yard of concrete. A five-sack mix is normally specified when the aggregate is ¾-
inch. A six-sack mix is recommended for 3/8-inch aggregate or for jobs where a
higher strength of concrete is needed.
Other factors. You may also need to specify water to cement ratio (1 to 2 by
weight is recommended for most residential foundations); slump (4 inches for
most jobs; 6 inches for filling concrete block); & air entrainment (an additive for
cold climates, usually specified as 6 percent).
Concerning charges, you may have to pay other fees in addition to the per yard
for delivery. A pumping service is extra, usually an hourly fee & a charge for each
yard pumped. You may also have to pay a short-load charge for orders under a
certain minimum, such as 7 yards. A stand by charge is a fee for any time the
concrete truck must remain at your job site after an allotted time limit (usually
about 5 minutes per yard). This fee can skyrocket if you are unprepared when
the truck arrives.
Pouring concrete into forms: Strike hammer on stake to spread impact & effect
To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner blocks of the first lead, or
course. Set each block into a layer of mortar & press down to within 3/8-inch of
footing. Stretch a line between them to guide the rest of the first course.
Be sure to set blocks right side up. The edge of the block (the “web”) is wider on
the top of a block than on the bottom.
Lay mortar on footing & butter one end of each block as you set it in place. Keep
buttered end raised slightly & lower it to fit snugly against preceding block in
one smooth motion. Use trowel handle to tap block level & blade to scrape away
excess mortar. Butter both ends of last block for each course. Constantly check
your work with a level, both horizontally & vertically.
Fill wall with concrete after finished wall has dried overnight. Even if your plans
don't require concrete in every space, you will have to fill holes every 4 to 6 feet
for setting anchor bolts. If codes don't require concrete filling, pour insulating
material, such as vermiculite, into finished wall.
Mortar Joints and Pointing
There is no set rule governing the thickness of a brick masonry mortar joint.
Irregularly shaped bricks may require mortar joints up to 1/2 inch thick to
compensate for the irregularities. However, mortar joints 1/4 inch thick are the
strongest. Use this thickness when the bricks are regular enough in shape to
permit it. A slushed joint is made simply by depositing the mortar on top of the
head joints and allowing it to run down between the bricks to form a joint. You
cannot make solid joints this way. Even if you fill the space between the bricks
completely, there is no way you can compact the mortar against the brick faces;
consequently a poor bond results. The only effective way to build a good joint is
to trowel it. The secret of mortar joint construction and pointing is in how you
hold the trowel for spreading mortar.
Figure 4 shows the correct way to hold a trowel. Hold it firmly in the grip shown,
with your thumb resting on top of the handle, not encircling it. If you are right-
handed, pick up mortar from the outside of the mortar board pile with the left
edge of your trowel. You can pick up enough to spread one to five bricks,
depending on the wall space and your skill. A pickup for one brick forms only a
small pile along the left edge of the trowel. A pickup for five bricks is a full load
for a large trowel.
Poor mortar bond
If you are right-handed, work from left to right along the wall. Holding the left
edge of the trowel directly over the center line of the previous course, tilt the
trowel slightly and move it to the right (view 3), spreading an equal amount of
mortar on each brick until you either complete the course or the trowel is empty
(view 4). Return any mortar left over to the mortar board.
Figure 7 Making a bed joint in a stretcher course.
Do not spread the mortar for a bed joint too far ahead of laying - four or five
brick lengths is best. Mortar spread out too far ahead dries out before the bricks
become bedded and causes a poor bond. The mortar must be soft and plastic so
that the brick will bed in it easily. Spread the mortar about 1 inch thick and then
make a shallow furrow in it (Figure 7, view 1). A furrow that is too deep leaves a
gap between the mortar and the bedded brick. This reduces the resistance of the
wall to water penetration. Using a smooth, even stroke, cut off any mortar
projecting beyond the wall line with the edge of the trowel (view 2). Retain
enough mortar on the trowel to butter the left end of the first brick you will lay in
the fresh mortar. Throw the rest back on the mortar board. Pick up the first
brick to be laid with your thumb on one side of the brick and your fingers on the
other. Apply as much mortar as will stick to the end of the brick and then push
it into place (Figure 8). Squeeze out the excess mortar at the head joint and at
the sides. Make sure the mortar completely fills the head joint (Figure 9). After
bedding the brick, cut off the excess mortar and use it to start the next end joint.
Throw any surplus mortar back on the mortar board where it can be restored to
workability.
Figure 10 shows how to insert a brick into a space left in a wall. First, spread a
thick bed of mortar (view 1), and then shove the brick into the wall space (view 2)
until mortar squeezes out of all four joints (view 3). This way, you know that the
joints are full of mortar at every point. To make a cross joint in a header course,
spread the bed joint mortar several brick widths in advance. Then, spread
mortar over the face of the header brick before placing it in the wall (Figure 11,
view 1). Next, shove the brick into place, squeezing out mortar at the top of the
joint. Finally, cut off the excess mortar as shown in view 2.
Figure 12 shows how to lay a closure brick in a header course. First, spread
about 1 inch of mortar on the sides of the brick already in place (view 1), as well
as on both sides of the closure brick (view 2). Then, lay the closure brick
carefully into position without disturbing the brick already laid (view 3). If you do
disturb any adjacent brick, cracks will form between the brick and mortar,
allowing moisture to penetrate the wall. You should place a closure brick for a
stretcher course using the same techniques as for a header course. As we
mentioned earlier, filling exposed joints with mortar immediately after laying a
wall is called pointing. You can also fill holes and correct defective mortar joints
by pointing, using a pointing trowel.
The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the project. When using
concrete block to build a wall, it is important to select the dimensions of the wall
based on the size of the block. Standard concrete blocks are 7 5/8" wide, 7 5/8"
deep, and 15 5/8" long. Assuming that the mortar joint is 3/8" thick brings the
block plus mortar dimensions to 8x8x16". You will want the outside dimension of
the wall to be a multiple of a half-block length (minus one mortar joint) so that
you do not have to cut blocks to a custom size. The height of the wall should also
be a multiple of the block height (including the mortar joint).
The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the corners of the
structure. In locating the corners, you should also make sure the footing or slab
formation is level so that each builder starts each section wall on a common
plane. This also helps ensure that the bed joints are straight when the sections
are connected. If the foundation is badly out of level, the entire first course
should be laid before builders begin working on other courses. If this is not
possible, a level plane should be established with a transit or engineer’s level.
The second step is to chase out bond, or lay out, by placing the first course of
blocks without mortar (Figure 13, view 1).
Figure 14: Leveling and plumbing first course of blocks for a wall.
Checking each course at the corner.
Vertical joints.
Snap a chalk line to mark the footing and align the blocks accurately. Then, use
a piece of material 3/8 inch thick to properly space the blocks. This helps you
get an accurate measurement.
A story or course pole, which is a board with markings 8 inches apart (figure 17),
helps accurately place each masonry course. Also check the horizontal block
spacing by placing a level diagonally across the corners of the blocks (figure 18).
When filling in the wall between the corners, first stretch a mason’s line along
the extensor block edges from corner to corner for each course. Then lay the top
outside edge of each new block to this line (figure 19). How you grip a block
before laying is important. First, tip it slightly toward you so that you can see the
edge of the course below. Then place the lower edge of the new block directly on
the edges of the block below (figure 19). Make all position adjustments while the
mortar is soft and plastic. Any adjustments you make after the mortar stiffens
will break the mortar bond and allow water to penetrate. Level each block and
align it to the mason’s line by tapping it lightly with a trowel handle.
Fifth and last, before installing the closure block, butter both edges of the
opening and all four vertical edges of the closure block with mortar. Then, lower
the closure block carefully into place (figure 20). If any mortar falls out, leaving
an open joint, remove the block and repeat the procedure. To assure a good
bond, do not spread mortar too far ahead when actually laying blocks. If you do,
the mortar will stiffen and lose its plasticity. The recommended width of mortar
joints for concrete masonry units is 3/8 inch. When properly made, these joints
produce a weathertight, neat, and durable concrete masonry wall.
As you lay each block, cut off excess mortar from the joints using a trowel (figure
21) and throw it back on the mortar board to rework into the fresh mortar. Do
not, however, rework any mortar dropped on the scaffold or floor. Weathertight
joints and the neat appearance of concrete masonry walls depend on proper
striking (tooling). After laying a section of the wall, tool the mortar joint when the
mortar becomes “thumb print” hard. Tooling compacts the mortar and forces it
tightly against the masonry on each side of the joint. Use either concave or V-
shaped tooling on all joints (figure 22).
Tool horizontal joints (figure 23, view 1) with a long jointer first, followed by
tooling the vertical joints (view 2). Trim off mortar burrs from the tooling flush
with the wall face using a trowel, soft bristle brush, or by rubbing with a burlap
bag.
A procedure known as pointing may be required after jointing. Pointing is the
process of inserting mortar into horizontal and vertical joints after the unit has
been laid. Basically, pointing is done to restore or replace deteriorated surface
mortar in old work. Pointing of this nature is called tuck pointing. However, even
in freshly laid masonry, pointing may be necessary for filling holes or correcting
defective joints.
You must prepare in advance for installing wood plates with anchor bolts on top
of hollow concrete masonry walls. To do this, place pieces of metal lath in the
second horizontal mortar joint from the top of the wall under the cores that will
contain the bolts (figure 24, view 1). Use anchor bolts 1/2 inch in diameter and
18 inches long. Space them not more than 4 feet apart. Then, when you
complete the top course, insert the bolts into the cores of the top two courses
and till the cores with concrete or mortar. The metal lath underneath holds the
concrete or mortar filling in place. The threaded end of the bolt should extend
above the top of the wall (view 2).
[edit]
6. Pour a level footing, using hand mixed cement and proper reinforcement.
A footing is a concrete structure upon which a wall is built. Figure 25 shows a
typical footing formwork for a bearing wall, and figure 26 shows bracing methods
for a bearing footing. A bearing wall, also called a load-bearing wall, is an
exterior wall that serves as an enclosure and also transmits structural loads to
the foundation. The form sides are 2-inch lumber whose width equals the footing
depth. Stakes hold the sides in place while spreaders maintain the correct
distance between them. The short braces at each stake hold the form in line. A
keyway is made in the wet concrete by placing a 2-by-2-inch board along the
center of the wall footing form. After the concrete is dry, the board is removed.
This leaves an indentation, or key, in the concrete. When you pour the
foundation wall, the key provides a tie between the footing and wall.
Concrete is strong under compression, but relatively weak under tension. The
reverse is true for steel. Therefore, when the two are combined, one makes up for
the deficiency of the other. When steel is embedded in concrete in a manner that
assists it in carrying imposed loads, the combination is known as reinforced
concrete. The steel may consist of welded wire fabric or expanded metal mesh,
but, more often, it consists of reinforcing bars, or more commonly "rebar."
Laying concrete block: Rebar driven into bottom of trench in line with the first
hole in every fourth block—every 4’ with 16” blocks; Dry run of blocks laid beside
the footing trench to set the position of rebar; Line up first course on mason
twine; First course corner block; Shallow keyway provides additional support;
Footing; Mason’s line block; First course corner block; Set each block in place &
tap it gently to line it up with the string; After the first few courses, add
additional lengths of rebar by sliding them down the cavity beside the first rod.
Tamp the concrete to hold the new rod tightly
2. The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the ________?.
a. Beam
b. Column
c. Project
d. House
3. To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner __________ of the
first lead, or course.
a. Cement
b. Block
c. Rebar
d. Aggregates
Multiple choice
1. B
2. C
3. B
4. B
5. A
OPERATING
TASK SHEETSHEET 3.3-8 3.3-8
Basic
Title:
operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure
Operating of concrete cement mixer
Title: Basic operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure
Performance Objective: The student/s will be able to operate concrete
Performance Objective: cement The students
mixer willusing
be ablestandard
to perform operating
laying
for structureper given job specification or
procedure.
brick/block
requirements.
Supplies/Materials : cement, sand, water, pail, shovel and PPE
Supplies/Materials : Cements, Sand, Water, block/bricks, RSB
Equipment : Concrete Mixer Machine
#10, tie wire, lumber, nail 280 cm
Steps/Procedure: :
Equipment Concrete Mixer Machine if needed, pail,
Shovel, Mixing Board, Pails, trowel,
a. Using plum bub,
Concrete push-full
Mixer Machinerule, level hose,
pencil, nylon string, claw hammer, wood float and PPE
Steps/Procedure:
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and identification of
1. materials.
Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and identification of
materials.
2. Withdraw materials from storage room to commence measurement
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need to use
and layout.
based on the given drawing and make a request to withdraw
from the storeprotective
3. Wear Personal room. equipment (PPE) for the task.
3. Secure
4. Read and follow
all the the operating
appropriate tools procedure of theto
and equipment electrically
be used.
operated equipment as well as the manually operated
5. Perform measurement and lay-out as per isometric drawing and in
equipment. 120
4. accordance with job
Follow the entire specification.
safety requirement during the operation of the cm
equipment.
6. Pour approximately 1 gallon (3.79 L) of water into the concrete
5. mixer.
Check Be suretools,
all the to use the correct
materials amount of ifwater
and equipment per
it is in the cement
good
mix instructions given by your
condition before performing the job. specific mix label. If there is too
much water added, the cement mix will come out too thin, become
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
unmanageable, and not dry properly. If there is not enough water,Hallow Blocks
Concrete
7. the
Makemix a lay-out for the
will become project
too thick,according
it will nottocombine
the plan thoroughly, and
requirement.
will become unusable.
7.
8. Open
Makethe cement
stake mix bag
and follow from the
building top and pour the entire contents
lines.
into the cement mixer.
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to the plan
8. Plug in and turn on the concrete mixer to begin mixing the powder
requirement.
cement mix and the water together. If you are working in an area
10.thatMixed
is does a mortar
not have according to the nearby,
power outlets mix proportion
you canneeded of
use a generator
the project.
to run your electric equipment or take the green approach and use a
11.solarLaypowered cement
block/brick mixer. to
according Allow the specification.
the plan mixer to continue mixing
until all of the powder is thoroughly mixed with the water and there
12.is noAlways
cement aligned every left.
mix dust layerLeave
basedthe
on cement
the nylon string.
mixer on as long as
13.necessary to keep
Stop laying the cementevery
of block/brick moistfive
and
(5) manageable.
layer and wait Because
to the
cement mixer'sand
make it strong drum
dry. is constantly rotating and the mix is
continually moving, it will not able to settle and begin drying leaving
14. Secure the cleanliness of the area before and after to do a
it pliable.
job.
9. Turn the concrete mixer off before pouring and leaving the machine
15. After all the instruction above is complete and good proceed
to continue with the cement portion of your construction.
to the other job.
10. Pour the mixed cement into the wheelbarrow to transport to the
16. After performing the job, go to your trainer to assess and
desired construction site. Most cement mixers will tip and turn to
evaluate your work.
the appropriate location in order to do this with ease.
11. Shovel the cement from the wheelbarrow to the necessary location
Assessment Method:
for your Actual demonstration with oral questioning
construction.
12. Repeat the previous steps to mix the appropriate amount of cement
for your construction needs.
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3-8
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and
identification of materials
1 Graphs
Scope:
A graph shows the relationship between two quantities – for example, the temperature at
different times of day or the value of a second hand car at different ages. The line on the
graph is drawn through all of the points of known information. So, we can use the graph to
read off the information - for example, the temperature at a particular time or the value of
the car at a particular age. We can read in either direction. The important point is that the
lines we draw on the graph, from our known starting point to what we want to find out,
must be vertical or horizontal.
Example Question:
The red line shows the distance a snail has travelled.
Distance-time graph for a snail's journey along a line
250
200
Distance (centimetres)
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
Solutions:
Distance-time graph for a snail's journey along a line
250
Distance (centimetres)
200
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
How long did it take before the snail had travelled 175 metres?
Draw a horizontal line up from 175cm (shown in green). Where this line reaches the
graph, draw a vertical line down to the axis. Read off the answer: 63minutes. That’s
1hr and 3mins.
Note: This is not an exact science. You cannot read the scale completely accurately.
(Don’t try giving an answer like 62.85mins!). However, students must use a sharp
pencil and draw the lines as neatly as possible.
Graphs tell stories! As something changes over time, the shape of the graph describes
the change. We can tell the story of the change by interpreting the graph.
Example Question: Back to the snail! Describe the snail’s journey.
Distance-time graph for a snail's journey along a line
250
200
Distance (centimetres)
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
Solution:
The graph only shows how far away from her starting point the snail has gone after so much
time.
After 10 minutes, the snail has travelled 50cm and after 20 minutes it has travelled 100cm. It
is travelling at a constant speed. At 30 minutes the snail isn’t getting any further away. It
must have stopped! It remains stopped until 50 minutes. Then it starts getting further away.
However, this time, it only travels about 20 cm for every 10 minutes. So, it is going slower.
A complete answer for a question like this would be: The snail went at a steady speed for 30
minutes, it stopped for 20 minutes, then went at a slower steady speed for a further 50
minutes.
2. Tables
Scope:
Putting information into a table is a useful way of neatly showing a lot of information in a
way that is easy to read. The important thing to recognize is that you are only going to
need to use a very small part of this information. So, remember to check carefully what it
is that you need to know. Then find the correct column and row containing the information
you need.
Example Question:
What is the total cost of a holiday for 1 adult and 2 children at the Tides End hotel departing
on the 5th of August?
Solution:
Reading from the table:
1 adult costs £230
1 child costs £170, so 2 children cost £340
Total £230 + £340 = £570
3. Charts
Scope:
Pie Charts
A pie chart is a graphic representation of data in different categories. The easiest way to
read a pie chart is to make an estimate of the percentage, or fraction, shown for each
category.
For example:
This table shows the results of a survey to determine the favouritecolours of 300 people.
FavouriteColour
Red 150
Blue 30
Green 75
Yellow 45
You can see that 150 people said red. 150 out of 300 is a half.
30 people said blue. 30 out of 300 is a tenth.
75 people said green. 75 out of 300 is a quarter.
There is only one segment left, so this is enough – you can complete the pie chart with
this information.
However, you may be able to see that 45 out of 300 is three twentieths!
So, this is the pie chart:
Red
Blue
Gree
n
If you know the total of the data shown in a pie chart, you can use the percentage or
fraction for each slice to work out how many people the slice represents. If you had an
angle measurer, you could measure the angle and use the fraction of that angle out of
360. In tests, you will not need to measure.
Example Question:
The pie chart shows a survey of 120 people, which asked them what their favorite
soft drink was. How many people said “Tingle”?
Solution:
4. The ___________ only shows how far away from her starting point the snail has gone
after so much time?
a. Level
b. layout
c. building lines
d. Graph
Communication is the exchange and flow of information and ideas from one person to
another; it involves a sender transmitting an idea, information, or feeling to a receiver
(U.S. Army, 1983). Effective communication occurs only if the receiver understands the
exact information or idea that the sender intended to transmit. Many of the problems that
occur in an organization are the either the direct result of people failing to communicate
and/or processes, which leads to confusion and can cause good plans to fail (Mistry,
Jaggers, Lodge, Alton, Mericle, Frush, Meliones, 2008).
During the transmitting of the message, two elements will be received: content and
context. Content is the actual words or symbols of the message that is known
as language — the spoken and written words combined into phrases that make
grammatical and semantic sense. We all use and interpret the meanings of words
differently, so even simple messages can be misunderstood. And many words have
different meanings to confuse the issue even more.
Context is the way the message is delivered and is known as paralanguage — it is the
nonverbal elements in speech such as the tone of voice, the look in the sender's eyes,
body language, hand gestures, and state of emotions (anger, fear, uncertainty,
confidence, etc.) that can be detected. Although paralanguage or context often cause
messages to be misunderstood as we believe what we see more than what we hear; they
are powerful communicators that help us to understand each other. Indeed, we often trust
the accuracy of nonverbal behaviors more than verbal behaviors.
Some leaders think they have communicated once they told someone to do something, “I
don't know why it did not get done. I told Jim to do it.” More than likely, Jim misunderstood
the message. A message has NOT been communicated unless it is understood by the
receiver (decoded). How do you know it has been properly received? By two-way
communication or feedback. This feedback tells the sender that the receiver understood
the message, its level of importance, and what must be done with it. Communication is an
exchange, not just a give, as all parties must participate to complete the information
exchange.
Barriers to Communication
Nothing is so simple that it cannot be misunderstood. — Freeman Teague, Jr.
A c t i v e Li st e ni ng
Hearing and listening are not the same thing. Hearing is the act of perceiving sound. It is
involuntary and simply refers to the reception of aural stimuli. Listening is a selective
activity which involves the reception and the interpretation of aural stimuli. It involves
decoding the sound into meaning.
Listening is divided into two main categories: passive and active. Passive listening is little
more that hearing. It occurs when the receiver of the message has little motivation to
listen carefully, such as when listening to music, story telling, television, or when being
polite.
People speak at 100 to 175 words per minute (WPM), but they can listen intelligently at
600 to 800 WPM. Since only a part of our mind is paying attention, it is easy to go
into mind drift — thinking about other things while listening to someone. The cure for this
is active listening — which involves listening with a purpose. It may be to gain
information, obtain directions, understand others, solve problems, share interest, see how
another person feels, show support, etc. It requires that the listener attends to the words
and the feelings of the sender for understanding. It takes the same amount or more
energy than speaking. It requires the receiver to hear the various messages, understand
the meaning, and then verify the meaning by offering feedback. The following are a few
traits of active listeners:
F eed b a c k
When you know something, say what you know. When you don't know something, say
that you don't know. That is knowledge. — Kung Fu Tzu (Confucius)
Providing feedback is accomplished by paraphrasing the words of the sender. Restate the
sender's feelings or ideas in your own words, rather than repeating their words. Your
words should be saying, “This is what I understand your feelings to be, am I correct?” It
not only includes verbal responses, but also nonverbal ones. Nodding your head or
squeezing their hand to show agreement, dipping your eyebrows shows you don't quite
understand the meaning of their last phrase, or sucking air in deeply and blowing it hard
shows that you are also exasperated with the situation.
Carl Rogers listed five main categories of feedback. They are listed in the order in
which they occur most frequently in daily conversations. Notice that we make judgments
more often than we try to understand:
Imagine how much better daily communications would be if listeners tried to understand
first, before they tried to evaluate what someone is saying.
N on v e rb a l
Behaviors of Communication
To deliver the full impact of a message, use nonverbal behaviors to raise the channel of
interpersonal communication:
1.______________________________________________
2.______________________________________________
3.______________________________________________
4.______________________________________________
5.______________________________________________
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
1. Evaluative
2. Interpretive
3. Supportive
4. Probing
5. Understanding
1. Culture
2. Noise
3. Ourselves
4. Perceptions
5. Message
6. Environmental
7. Smothering
8. Stress
o Thought: First, information exists in the mind of the sender. This can be a
concept, idea, information, or feelings.
o Encoding: Next, a message is sent to a receiver in words or other symbols.
o Decoding: Lastly, the receiver translates the words or symbols into a
concept or information that he or she can understand.
References/Further Reading
Evidence Plan
Competency
standard:
Lay Block/brick for structure
Unit of
competency: Laying Block/brick for structure
Ways in which evidence will be collected:
Questioning
Portfolio
Written
The evidence must show that the trainee…
Plans as per job requirement are read and √
interpreted.
Materials, tools and equipment are selected
and prepared consistent with job √
requirements.
Materials are properly stored/stockpiled and √
freed from foreign matters.
Reference building lines are correctly √ √
identified/ located as per job requirements.
Location of brick/block structure based on
reference building lines is established using √
batter board at ±3 mm tolerance for proper
alignment, squareness and dimension.
Lay-out of brick/block structure is correctly √ √
marked as per job requirements.
Bricks and concrete block laid on the line at
minimum allowance at 1/16 in (2 mm).
√
Use masonry tools correctly. √
Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line √
with job requirements.
Horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block is √
installed according to job specification.
Reinforcing bar/dowel is installed according √ √
required to job specifications.
Mortars are spread on the base/edge of
brick/block mortar according to job √
specifications.
Bricks/blocks are positioned/laid according to √
design/specifications/locations.
Constant checking of plumbness is done √ √
during brick/block laying.
Formworks are installed in accordance with √ √
building plan.
Cast-in place concrete structures are
constructed according to design and job √ √
specifications.
Work site is cleaned and kept in safe state in √
line with OHS Regulations.
Unexpected situations are responded √
accordingly.
Final checks are made with the foreman to
ensure that works conform with instructions √
and to requirements.
Tools, equipment and any surplus resources
and materials are checked in accordance with √ √
established procedures.
Work area is maintained as to cleanliness and √
safety.
Interpretation of
5% 6% 7% 18%
drawing
Laying of Concrete
Block/Bricks 5% 8% 9% 22%
Safety awareness 7%
5% 6% 18%
Housekeeping 6%
3% 5% 14%
General Instruction:
Given the necessary tools, material and equipment, you are required to lay
brick/block for structure as per job specification in accordance accepted
institutional/ industry standard (Allotted time: 4hrs)
Specific Instruction:
the machine.
QUESTIONING TOOL
Satisfactory
Questions to probe the candidate’s underpinning knowledge
response
Extension/Reflection Questions Yes No
1. What are the tools and equipment needed for laying of
block/brick?
WRITTEN EXAM
NAME: ____________________________________________ DATE:_____________
Instruction: Read the question carefully, and select the correct answer.
11. The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the
______________?
a. Corners of the structure
b. Block
c. Foundation
d. Wall
12. To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner __________ of
the first lead, or course.
a. Cement
b. Block
c. Rebar
d. Aggregates
16. The ___________ only shows how far away from her starting point the snail
has gone after so much time?
a. Level
b. layout
c. building lines
d. Graph
18. The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the ________?.
a. Beam
b. Column
c. Project
d. House
ANSWER KEY:
1. D 11. A
2. B 12. B
3. C 13. B
4. A 14. C
5. C 15. C
6. D 16. A
7. B 17. A
8. B 18. C
9. A 19. B
10. C 20. D
Extension/Reflection Questions
1. What are the tools and equipment needed for laying of block/brick?
Answer: Pointed trowel, measuring tape, plum bub, steel square,
pencil, nylon, claw hammer, Grinder, and concrete mixer.
2. What are the PPE needed to use when laying brick/block?
Answer: Harness, safety shoes, hard hat, cover-all suit.
3. Enumerate the procedure on laying of brick/block?
Answer: Prepare the plan, make a lay-out for the project, mixed a
mortar for the blocks, make a guide for the blocks, lay the blocks
accordingly to the plan, always clean the area.
Safety Questions
4. What are the 5 basic rules on safety handling tools booth hand tools
and power tools?
Answer:
1. Always follow the instruction on how to take care your tools and
equipment.
2. Always clean the tools and equipment after you used it.
3. Never repair equipment until you unplug it in the power.
4. Always follow manual instruction of the tools.
5. Wear PPE when using hand tools and equipment’s.
5. What are the safety requirements for handling mixer machine?(refer
from user manuals instruction)
Answer:
6. What is the feeling of using a right PPE when performing the job?
Answer: Confident and feel secured while working.
7. How do you feel when you are laying of brick/block by following safety
requirements?
Answer: Feel safe and not worried.
Contingency Questions
8. What would you do if the machine is not properly working?
Answer: Don’t use and report to the authority, put a warning plug for
the machine.
9. What would you do if the tools and equipment needed to perform task
is not available?
Answer: cancel the task for a while and wait for the right tools and
equipment’s.
10. What would you do if you don’t understand the procedure on laying
brick/block?
Answer: Don’t do the task and report to your supervisor.
11. What would you do if your equipment suddenly broke or damage
while you are using it?
Answer: Stop using it, make a report and request for a new
equipment.
Job Role/Environment Questions
12. What would you do if other workers disturbing you while you are
working?
Answer: Talk to the worker not to disturb you while you are working,
make a report to your supervisor.
13. What would you do if some workers give you other instruction
different from your supervisor instruction?
Answer: Don’t follow that instruction.
14. What would you do if other workers not participate in working within
your project?
Answer: Report it to your supervisor.
15. What would you do if some workers acting like your supervisor?
Answer: Report it to your supervisor.
Rules and Regulations
16. What is the regulation needed for the masonry work?
Answer: Civil regulation
17. What is the concrete mixing proportion for Mortar?
Answer: 1 cement, 4 sand, 6 gallon of water
18. What is the measurement of the Block?
Answer: 10cm X 20cm X 40cm
19. Who is the over-all in-charge in the workplace?
Answer: The Project engineer, Project Manager
20. What is the standard mixing proportion for Plastering?
Answer: 1 cement, 3 fine sand and 6 gallon of water
Note: In the remarks section, remarks may include for repair, for
replenishment, for reproduction, for maintenance etc.