Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Cutting Room Management System
Cutting Room Management System
SYSTEMS
INTRODUCTION
Producing better, faster and achieving serious savings on material used: for
Manufacturers this is a never ending quest. This is reflected in their drive for optimum
productivity, efficient utilization of their high tech equipments and flexible processes for
the manufacturing orders.
The first stage of production in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials
into the necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to
create three-dimensional garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be
cut, a lay is created which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other.
From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are
cut. The pattern shapes for these garments may be drawn on a paper marker placed on
top of the lay, or information as to their shape and position may be held within a
computer, to be plotted similarly on a paper marker or used to drive an automatic
cutter.
• Cutting room being the feeding point to the factory has massive impact on all the
further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc.
• Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensures smooth flow of
work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the
available resources.
• Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to
the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a
huge affect on the margins of the orders.
• Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation of
quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in cutting process can result
in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.
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CUTTING ROOM PROCESS FLOW
The usual process happening in a cutting room has been shown in the form of a
flowchart below:
Pattern
Cutting Fabric Copy Lay order
Plan Details Report
Cutting
Worksheet
Parts Replacement
Not
O.K.
Cuts Indent
Issuance of Cuts O.K.
Lay Checking Bundling Cutting
Reconciliation
Report Cutting
Cutting Issue Audit Report
Register
Report
As the flowchart above shows, the three processes involved in cutting of garment parts
accurately and economically and in sufficient volume to keep the sewing room supplied
with work are:
These important cutting room processes have been discussed in detail in the coming
pages ahead.
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MARKER MAKING
Marker making is the process of laying down cutting templates resembling all of the
individual components of a garment in such a way that they utilize the fabric in the best
possible way and achieve optimum efficiencies in the process of cutting the required
quantity of a particular style. In practice the development of a new collection is usually
effected by appropriate modification of the existing patterns. This time consuming work
is made considerably easier and faster through the use of a CAD system.
Marker Planning
The requirements of production planning and control will be to supply the sewing room
with an adequate amount of cut garments at sufficiently frequent intervals, consistent
with availability of fabric and the best utilization of cutting room resources. Among latter
considerations is that for a given quantity of garments (as per given size ratios), a high
lay rather then a low lay gives a lower cutting labor cost per garment. Thus a marker
has to be planned in such a way that it achieves the above stated objectives. There are
different types of marker plans. These are:
• Half Garment Marker Plan – This will have only half of the garment pieces (say
right side only). They are used for folded or tubular fabrics and for fabrics which
are spread face to face.
• Whole Garment Marker Plan – All garment pieces (left and right both)are
included in the marker. Used for open width fabrics.
• Single Size Marker Plan – The marker includes all the pieces for a single size.
Restricting the lay to a single size makes order planning and laying up the fabric
easier, but the disadvantage is a higher material consumption.
• Multi Size Marker Plan – These include all the pieces for multiple sizes. The
number of sizes would be determined by the efficiency being achieved with each
size. These markers usually have lesser material consumption and better marker
efficiency as compared to a single size marker.
Marker Drawing
The basic Pattern must first be digitized. Once this is done they can be retrived from the
computer, displayed on the screen and modified any time. Thus the whole shape can be
adjusted, lines can be deleted or extended and points can be superimposed. Darts can
be altered, parts can be rotated and moved, the result can be saved in a range of sizes
and is immediately ready for use in generating the marker plan. The procedure is fast
becoming a standard practice in the industry.
Once the pattern set for a particular style has been generated on the computer the
garment parts can be sorted out and arranged into a maker plan in such a way that they
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fit within the confines of the fabric width as closely and efficiently as possible, in order to
minimize wastage. The patterns have to be laid in a way that takes account of the
directional properties of the fabric, such as thread directions, pattern direction, nap or
pile on the fabric, grain line etc. Alignment of patterns in a marker may also depend
upon the design pattern on the fabric to be laid, for eg., matching of stripes and checks.
Reproduction of Markers
Usually a paper marker is used in cutting a lay of fabric. Once the marker has been
made, it is sent to a plotter, which is used to print the marker on long white paper
sheets. It is normally stabilized on the top ply of the lay by stapling or by an adhesive
which make the paper marker lightly stick to the surface of the fabric. The paper marker
is cut along with the fabric plies, and thus destroyed. Such a marker can be used more
than once and is an economical way of duplicating to provide copies. Where marking is
done directly on the fabric, it must be repeated for each spread of fabric, which is time
consuming and less consistent in terms of marker efficiency.
SPREADING
Traditionally, spreading of fabrics is one of the most time consuming manual processes
and tends to control the capacity of the cutting section. The objective of spreading is to
place the required number of plies of fabric one on top of the other (lay), that the
production planning process has dictated, to the length of marker plan, in the colors
required, correctly aligned as to length and width, and free from tension or slackness.
Forms of Spreading
Depending upon the physical attributes of the fabric required to be spread in the form of
a lay would determine the form in which the fabric will be spread to form a lay. The
different forms of laying a fabric to form lay have been discussed below.
One way
Each layer of fabric is laid the same way up, with the grain or pattern running in the
same direction. The fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply and, in machine
spreading, carriage must return, inactive, to the beginning of the lay. This method is
used for fabrics with a grain or a directional pattern.
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Face-to-Face
The plies are laid in pairs, face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction.
After each ply is cut off, the fabric has to be turned and, with machine spreading, the
carriage has to return, inactive, to the starting point. Used for the same types of fabrics
as the one-way system.
Two- Way
The plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left, without cutting and
without returning to the starting point for each ply. This is the most efficient method of
spreading but it can not be used for fabrics with grain or directional patterns.
Spreading Methods
Spreading of fabrics to form a lay can be done in different ways. The various methods of
spreading are:
Manual Spreading
The cloth is carefully from the fabric roll by hand and is cut to appropriate length.
Mechanical devices can be provided to facilitate the unrolling and cutting operations but
the proper alignment of the fabric edges is the responsibility of the human operator. This
procedure is suitable for short lays and for frequent changes in fabrics and colors. It is
frequently used in small businesses.
Spreading Carriage
The cloth is spread semi-automatically, using a manually driven carriage. The carriage is
moved back and forth over the laying up table. Built in mechanisms take care of aligning
the fabric edges and smoothing the plies. This system is favored when the lays are long
and broad. The method is very efficient and suitable for small businesses.
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Automatic Spreading Machines
The moving carriage has been more or less fully
automated to provide a more efficient production for large
scale enterprises.
Common attachments for such equipment include photo
cells for correct alignment of the selvedges, fabric loading
and threading devices, cutting devices at the end of the
lay, a platform on which the operator can stand while the
machine is spreading the fabric.
Prerequisites of Spreading
Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives. The following points should be
taken care off while spreading plies of fabric to form lay in order to achieve good cutting
quality.
1. Shade sorting of cloth pieces – Lays commonly require more than one roll of
fabric to achieve enough plies in total. It is likely that different lots of fabrics that are
same color won‟t have an exact shade match. A garment made from parts cut from
the rolls of different shade lot would most likely show a shade variation between its
different panels. Thus when deliveries of a number of rolls of cloths of the same color
are received, they should be sorted into batches such that shade differences between
them are undetectable. This process of sorting is called shade sorting or shade lot
making.
2. Correct ply direction – The various types of fabrics, in terms of surface direction,
that are available, designated either way, one way – either way or one way only,
have been described above. For one way-either way, and one way only fabrics,
where the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker
plan, it is essential that the fabric is spread in a way that maintains that direction.
Typical examples of such fabrics are velvet or corduroy where and change in the
direction of pattern placement would clearly show on the garment as different parts
of the garment would show the nap of the fabric in different directions.
3. Adequate lay stability – The number of plies that should be spread in one
particular lay depends on the thickness of the fabric and also the equipment being
used for cutting. As such, a thicker fabric such as denim would have less plies in a
lay, whereas a sheer fabric such as chiffon would have more plies in a lay. Care
should be taken to spread neither too less nor too much extra plies then the
prescribed no of plies in a lay to provide lay stability when the cutting equipment
cuts through the plies.
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4. Alignment of ply – Every ply should comprise the length and width of the marker
plan, but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements. All
the plies should be aligned to the edges form one side at least.
5. Width of fabric - The nature of textile material is such that the pieces of fabric as
delivered from suppliers, vary in width, both from piece to piece and to lesser extent
within single pieces. The marker plan is made to fit the narrowest width. The surplus
width of the fabric is distributed outside the edge of the marker plan. In addition, the
ends of the plies must be cut off squarely, allowing the smallest possible loss at both
ends.
6. Correct ply tension – If the plies are spread with too slack a tension they will lie in
ridges with irregular fullness. If plies are spread in a stretched state they will
maintain their tension while held in the lay, but will contract after cutting or during
sewing, thus shrinking the garment parts to a smaller size than the pattern pieces. It
is therefore important for the spread to have correct ply tension i.e. neither slack nor
stretched before cutting the fabric into garment parts.
8. Avoidance of distortion in the spread – A layer of brown paper, laid glazed side
down and rough side up, is normally placed at the bottom of the spread. This helps
to avoid disturbing the lowest plies of material in the spread when the base plate of a
straight knife passes underneath. The glazed side of the paper facilitates the
movement of straight knife within the spread and also if it is to be moved on a
floatation table. The rough side gives stability to the lay by providing better friction
between the paper and the lowest ply of fabric.
Spreading Inspection
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• Marker making: To make sure that all parts of a particular garment appear on the
marker, the smaller parts [collars/cuffs] should be present in pairs.
• Marker Placement: The marker placed on the spread should have the edges parallel
to the selvedge of the piece goods.
• Table Marks: The splice points should be identified on the base marker before
spreading. The table should be marked for splicing [a minimum of one inch of overlap].
The overlap of fabric at a splice point should be at least 1” on either side of the parts in
the splice.
• Markers: The marker should not be creased, damaged, or have overlapped parts.
• Spread Height: The height of the spread should be at least two inches less than the
cutting blade knife.
• Narrow Goods: The far edges of the spread should have all piles extend beyond the
marker line. The fabric laid should extend 1 - 1.5 cm outside the marker.
• Tension and Creasing: No artificial/ excessive tension or creasing should be present
in the spread.
• Leaning: One edge of the fabric should be square to the table- top. The side of the
spread should be aligned +/- 1/8”. Visually inspection should be done to ensure the
alignment of the edge with the tabletop.
• Count: The count of plies should be done after completion of spreading, and before
cutting.
Often changes are made to markers to adjust certain production problems. Under no
circumstance should this happen. In case such a situation arises, all changes should be
made in consultation with merchandisers/ quality inspectors. Should there be any
changes required in the pattern/marker, a new pattern and marker should be developed.
Under no circumstance should changes be made to the same marker.
Under no circumstance should any tolerance be allowed in spreading or cutting as a
defect in spreading/cutting would lead to accelerated defects in the sewing process.
The Spreading Inspector has to inform the spreading master/cutting masters of the
irregularities in the spreading and ensure that corrective steps are taken. In case of re-
spreading or redevelopment of marker, the Inspector should decide on the date along
with the spreader and inform Quality Inspector.
CUTTING
Like many apparel exporters competing in today‟s competitive international market, the
apparel industry has been forced to upgrade its responsiveness to customer needs. As a
result orders are placed in a more dynamic fashion, requiring the efficient production of
smaller lot sizes. Accurate cutting can help in achieving the economies in the cutting
room and set the right standards for other garment manufacturing processes, thus
impacting on the profitability of the businesses. Different types of cutting tools have
different degrees of precision and accuracy and have been discussed below in detail.
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Cutting Methods & Equipments
In the majority of cutting rooms today, the cutting process makes use of hand shears, a
mechanized knife blade in one of the several possible types, or a die press which stamps
out the garment shape. Some of the methods currently in use are described below:
1. Hand Shears – Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or double
plies. The lower blade of the shears passes under the plies, and some distortion of
the fabric might occur which can be avoided with practice.
5. Drills and thread markers – Where reference marks are needed away from the
edge of a garment part, such as for the position of the pockets, darts and similar
features, a hole is often drilled through all the plies of fabric in the lay. On looser
weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is used which will slightly
scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. All drill holes must eventually be concealed by
the construction of the garment.
7. Computer controlled cutting knives – This method provides the most accurate
possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the larger systems fully occupied they
are frequently used in a central cutting facility that supplies a number of separate
sewing factories.
8. Die Cutting – Die cutting involves pressing of a rigid blade through the layed fabric.
The die (called a clicker in the shoe industry) is a knife in the shape of the pattern
periphery, including notches. Die cutting also offers much faster cutting than knife
cutting for the same depth of cut. It is proportionally more economic for small parts
which have a greater periphery in relation to their area.
Cutting Quality
The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pattern pieces in the
marker plan. In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled:
1. Precision of cut – Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not
fit the body correctly, if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. In
manual cutting using a knife, accuracy of cut depends on appropriate, well-
maintained cutting knives and on the skill and motivation of the cutter. In both die
cutting and computer controlled cutting, the achievement of accuracy comes from
the equipment.
2. Clean edges – The raw edge of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging.
Such defects come from an imperfectly sharpened knife.
3. Un-scorched, un-fused edges – The build-up of heat in the knife blade comes
from the friction of the blade passing through the fabric. This, in extreme cases,
leads to scorching of the fabric and, more frequently, to the fusing of the raw edges
of thermoplastic fibre fabrics, such as those containing polyamide or polyester.
4. Freedom of knife movement - While placing of pattern pieces on the fabric, some
freedom of knife movement has to be given on curves & turns in order to get
accurate cutting.
5. Pattern Count - A pattern count must be made at the completion of the planning of
marker to check that the complete menu of patterns has been included.
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6. Labelling - Correct labelling of cut garment parts is essential while sorting and
bundling a multi size lay after cutting.
Cutting Inspection
All cut panels are to be inspected for fabric and cutting defects. Following must be
ensured before inspection is carried out
• The marker lines should be followed. You can go out of the line by 1/8” max
but never cut into the part. In other words, you should always be able to see
the marker lines.
• All notches should be located correctly with a depth of ¼” +/- 1/16”.
• The markers should be attached to the stack of parts with approved staples or
pins.
• When cutting care should be taken not to shift the stack of parts to a side or
to cut with the blade at an angle.
For the final audit process, the quality inspector will determine how many bundles to
check from every size according to the AQL chart. Each of these bundles will undergo
the following inspection:
• All parts from the same shade number should not have shade differences.
• All parts have the proper shape according to the marker
• All parts must have all notches in the correct location and with the
appropriate depth.
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Defect Classification
Fabric Defects
• Barre - Occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine.
Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.
• Birdseye - Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually
two small distorted stitches, side by side.
• Broken color pattern - Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame
• Drop stitches - Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes
or missing stitches
• End out - Occurs in warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run
with missing end.
• Hole - Caused by broken needle
• Missing yarn - Occurs in circular knit. Caused by one end of yarn missing from
feed and machine continuing to run.
• Mixed yarn - Occurs in warp knit. Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size
yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fiber
has different affinity for dye.
• Needle line - Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually a
vertical line.
• Press-off - Results when all or some of the needle on circular knitting fail to
function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted
or destroyed. Many knitting needle are broken and have to replace when bad
press –off occurs. Bad press-off usually starts a new roll of fabric.
• Runner - Caused by broken needle. Will appear as vertical line (most machine
have a stopping device to stop machine when needle breaks)
• Slub - Usually caused by a heavy or thick place in yarn, or by lint getting onto
yarn feed.
• Straying - Caused when end of yarn break and the loose end strays and is knit
regularly into another area.
Cutting Defects
• Miscuts: Miscuts are defects created due to failure of the cutter to “split the line”
properly.
• Mismatching plies: The top ply and the bottom ply of the same cut do not match
each other in shape/size
• Ragged cutting: This is a judgment defect; for certain parts such as pockets and
collars ragged cutting can be a critical problem whereas for some parts like front
the defect would be less severe in case the ragged edges are not too severe.
• Wrong Notches: The notch location is either not aligned with those marked on
the pattern or the notch depth is not proper.
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• Scorched, fused edges – The build-up of heat in the knife blade comes from the
friction of the blade passing through the fabric. This, in extreme cases, leads to
scorching of the fabric and, more frequently, to the fusing of the raw edges of
thermoplastic fiber fabrics, such as those containing polyamide or polyester.
• Fraying – the edges of the cut parts may fray if the blade being used for cutting is
not sharp. Fraying may also be caused due to a static charge building up in
between the cutting blade and the fabric during the cutting of synthetic fabrics.
• Slant knife: This occurs while cutting when the knife blade tilts. This results in a
difference in sizes throughout the ply height i.e. from the top ply to the bottom ply.
• Faulty Measurement: the measurement of the cut part does not match with the
measurement of the patterns from which they are cut. Tolerance here would be,
for straight knife 3mm, tolerance for band knife 2mm and tolerance for dye-cuts
1mm.
Once the lay is cut the cut parts are numbered before sending to sewing section to avoid
shade variation while assembling. All the parts in a single garment should possess the
same panel number. Generally, size of the garment is also mentioned in the number and
the last two digits are the running numbers.
After numbering the pieces are bundled into a group of certain pieces. Every cut bundle
is provided with a numbered ticket. Bundles of components will also be provided with a
label containing a serial number, the size and other operational data. The labels have to
be clearly visible but must not interfere with further processing (sewing, fusing). The
size of the bundle is decided by the cutting-room in charge, in discussion with the
sewing floor in charge.
Fusing
Interlining fabrics of this type are called fusibles, or fusible interlinings. They comprise of
a substrate and an adhesive (resin). The substrate may be a woven, knitted or
nonwoven fabric. The resin is almost always a synthetic polymer material which melts
and flows within a defined temperature range. The adhesive may be applied to the
substrate in a variety of ways e.g. powder scattering, dot printing, paste printing,
laminating, melt coating.
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Fusing technology, therefore, is concerned with the materials, equipment, and methods
by means of which a lining may be durably bonded to a top cloth.
The quality of the bond in terms of fastness to washing, ironing or dry cleaning, would
depend upon the substrate, the adhesive, the top cloth and the fusing conditions. These
have to be matched to the specific requirements of the garment. The bond should be
formed without detracting seriously from the look, the structure, the comfort and the
utility of a garment.
Fusing Presses
Routine procedures for maintaining the quality of the fusing process are concerned with
two types of press. The „flat bed‟ which may also be used for other pressing operations,
provides a high labor cost solution because of its intermittent feed. The continuous
process consists of a conveyer belt, which feeds the parts through the heated press
heads. The press will usually be calibrated after installation and at regular intervals by
the suppliers. In addition, regular daily test should be performed by the press staff.
Press will need to be switched on about an hour before the start of work, unless the
makers specify otherwise. The settings of the thermostat should be checked at this
stage against the setting cards displayed on the press.
Testing Procedure
Tests for temperature may be made with single wire pyrometers, left for at least 20
seconds on flat bed presses. They may not be used on continuous presses, since they
may damage the belts. Thermo papers are permissible for both but records only the
maximum temperature. Variations from standard temperature of „+‟ or „–„5 degree C are
acceptable but „+‟ or „-„2 degree C is preferred. Checks for temperature should
commence for 40 minutes after the press has been switched on. The thermostat settings
should be checked first and ensured that they are correct. Each test should be done
twice.
„Flat beds‟ should be operated for 6 cycles, 20 seconds open and 20 closed, then the
stripes of thermo-paper or pyrometer wires should be placed to cover the space
symmetrically around the sides, 3 to each. Six cycles are necessary whenever the press
has been out of use for periods of 5 minutes or longer and so they should not be
switched off during the day.
Continuous presses must be run for 10 minutes before testing and so they too are best
left in operation until the end of the day. 4 papers set symmetrically across the width
are normally enough.
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Testing Routines
Temperature tests are necessary at the start of the shift and after every break in
production and should be carried out at least 3 times a day.
For „flat beds‟ place brown paper strips, each 5cms wide along the edges in the places
used for temperature testing. When the press is closed they should be held firmly. After
this, check that the press cladding is in order.
The continuous press is tested in a similar way. Stripes of paper are fed under the nip
rollers and the press is stopped. Then each is pulled firmly. Bowing is the main problem
with this type of press and therefore the centre requires particular attention.
Testing for pressure can be done on a weekly basis. First check that the pressure
setting is correct for the fusible in use. Pressure should be monitored by the operative
during the day in case it falls down.
Timing should be checked against a stopwatch daily. Peel strength tests must be carried
out daily or following a major change of fabric. This is done by making up test pieces of
fabric and fusible, selecting those which are most likely to give trouble. For large parts a
strip, 5 cm wide is necessary but 2.5 cm is enough for small parts. The length should be
1.5cms along the weft direction. When cool they may be pulled apart using a spring
gauge, a job which requires a little skill if it is to be done consistently. 3 or 4 strips
across the width of the press are recommended. The first should be done for about 10
minutes after the start of production.
All test results must be entered into a register at once, entries being made on dated
pages which record the date and time, together with detail of any problems encountered
and any maintenance work done on the machine.
Embroidery/ Printing
During the process of embroidery/ printing it is important to prevent wrinkles and other
problems; as such the fabric must be stabilized for the processes. The method of
stabilizing depends to a large degree on the type of machine, the fabric type, and the
design density. For example, knits and large designs typically require firm stabilization.
There are many methods for stabilizing fabric, but most often one or more additional
pieces of material called "stabilizers" or "interfacing" are added beneath and/or on top of
the fabric. Many types of stabilizers exist, including cut-away, tear-away, vinyl, nylon,
water-soluble, heat-n-gone, adhesive, open mesh, and combinations of these.
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CUTTING ROOM MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
The cutting room is the first place where the actual production activity starts from.
Appropriate controls and tools would ensure that the processes in the cutting
department are optimized and those following cutting are smoothened. A list of such
tools has been given sequentially and will be studied in this section.
Cutting File
A cutting file for a particular style having all the relevant information about the style is
handed over by the merchandiser to the cutting department. A clear and detailed
transmission of information is necessary to avoid mishaps in the cutting department as
going wrong in cutting would mean immense loss given the chances of rectifications
being limited in cutting. A proper cutting file would have a copy of the purchase orders
stating the size wise quantity to be cut in that style, details and approvals relating to
bulk fabric, Fabric/ Garment test reports, size set, PP meeting and pilot run reports,
garment consumption, mini markers etc. This is necessary to give the cutting
department a clear picture of what is required to be done keeping in mind the buyers‟ ,
product and factory‟s requirement. A copy of the contents of a typical cutting file is given
below for reference:
Cutting File
Buyer P.O Style Delivery Date Order Qty
Merchandiser Name Cutting Manger Name Date
Unit Name
Contents Status Reamark (If any )
Purchase Order
Delivery confirmation / approval mail from buyer
Coment form buyers
Fabric
Approved lab dip / strike off / deskloom
Approved bulk swatch
Purchase order
Test report/FPT
Shrinkage reports
Inspection report
Shade bands
Garment Test report
Pre-production Sealer sample report
Size set report
Pre-production meeting report
Pilot run report
Garment consumption report
Mini Marker
Important communication record with buyer
Important communication records with departments
Cutting room planning is very important and should be done for every order. Good
planning helps in better utilization of available resources and improving cutting room
efficiencies. The cutting plan should be made well in advance to allocate resources and
check on fabric availability & flow for the planned cutting. The planning department
issues a cutting work order to the cutting department for commencing cutting for any
particular order. A cut order plan is generated which details the lay planning in which a
particular style has to be cut to reach to the size wise target quantities for that style.
This is done to optimize the spreading and cutting processes so that the quantitative
requirements of the style are met in the fastest and most appropriate manner. A
hypothetical cut order plan has been shown below, where 2 sizes are to be cut in
different colors, each color having different quantities. A study of the below chart would
help understand the preparation of a cut order plan.
Lay No No of Plies Multiples Color King Queen Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Total Lay Length Width Lay Slip No
1 200 4 White 800 800
2 100 4 White 400 400
100 4 Ivory 400 400
3 200 4 Ivory 800 800
4 175 4 Sage 700 700
25 4 Gold 100 100
5 175 4 Blue 700 700
25 4 Gold 100 100
6 200 2 Gold 200 200 400
7 75 4 Sage 300 300
75 4 Blue 300 300
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Total 3400 1600 0 0 0 5000
Balance 0 0 0 0 0 0
The cut order plan mentioned above would also generate a lay slip no. which is the no.
assigned to a particular lay. This Lay Slip forms the basis in which a lay has to be laid.
It would also be useful in checking the fabric meterage or fabric weight (as the case may
be; meterage in woven and weight in knits) that goes in the formation of the lay as
dictated by the cut order plan.
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Spreading Report/ Lay Slip
Order No Pattern No/Color
Cut No Marker Ratio Spreader
Plies Size Break Up Width Marker Length Avg. Consuption(Kg.)
Shade
Shade Lay Length
TOTAL
TOTAL
No. of garments spread Total Plies spread in the lay X No. of way marker
After the cut order plan and lay slip has been generated the fabric is requisitioned from
the fabric stores. A fabric receipt register is maintained to keep a track of all the
fabric that is received in the cutting room. The fabric receipt register would essentially
help in style/ lot/ color wise tracking the fabric that has been issued by the fabric
department and received by the cutting department. Whenever a fabric is received from
the fabric stores, entries should be made under the heads given in the register which
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should then be duly signed by the cutting supervisor/ in charge. The content of a fabric
receipt register has been given in the format below:
Fabrics with stretch (fabrics with spandex) are to be relaxed as advised in FPT report.
Relaxation of fabric must be carried out before the spreading of the fabric. All rolls must
be relaxed as per time stipulated time (8hours/24 hours or as applicable). Details of
relaxation of all rolls must be maintained in a report. This would include style number,
roll number, time/date when relaxed & time/date when issued for spreading. It is also
important to mention the time/date as to when a particular fabric was relaxed on a
sticker on the roll for easy identification. A fabric relaxation report has been given below
for reference.
22
Fabric Relaxation Report
S.No. Date Style # Color Shade Shrinkage Cuttable width Relaxation Toal Relaxed Hrs Issued for spreading Remarks
Length width Start Time End Time Time Date
Keeping a track of the spreading and cutting machine utilization, identifying and
recording the factors that contribute to the unutilized capacity of the machines is very
important in the process of improving the overall utilization and efficiency of the cutting
23
room. A continuous recording is done for these machines throughout the day, of the
time being taken for different activities during which the machine can‟t be run, such as
rest/ break, roll loading, splicing, fabric lapping, waiting time, etc. Once the readings
have been taken they are worked upon to identify the factor that contributes maximum
to the unutilized time of the machine. Efforts are then done to reduce the time
consumed by these factors, which would in turn improve the utilization factor of
machines. A Machine utilization report is used to track the utilization of machines in the
cutting room. A specimen of a typical machine utilization report has been given for
reference.
Soon after the lay has been cut, a cutting part inspection should be done and report
made. The procedure of cutting inspection and the points to be checked have been given
in the manual for reference.
24
The objective of a quality inspection in spreading and cutting sections is to ensure that
the parts being cut meet the required parameters of quality and any deviation from the
quality is checked and rectified in the cutting room itself but does not get passed on to
the sewing area.
A typical spreading and cutting inspection format has been shown below:
25 te chnopak
Cutting Room: Inspection Report
Date : Style : Spreader: Inspected by:
Cut No : Cutter:
Spreading Inspection:
Alignment
No. Of Plies Marker way Sizes Marked Specified Length Actual Length Total No of Parts All parts Present Checks matching
Defects
Cut Part Inspection : Size (a) Notch/Drill Hole (b) Others (c)
Leaning Alignment
Defects Top Middle Bottom Missing Location Depth stack Fraying Wrinkles (Checks / Remarks
wrong wrong Stripes)
Parts
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Total
Total Defects = (a + b) / 3 + c =
100___________________
=
DHU = Total Defects ( ) X number of pieces checked
An end bit register is maintained to keep a record of the end bits left from fabric rolls or
thaans during the process of spreading. Entry for each end bit is made in the end bit
register along with the cut no., thaan no., lot no. if required. This would facilitate the
process of part changing, where a defective part is required to be cut from the same lot
and thaan (to avoid shade variation) from which the defective part was cut.
26
Ply Numbering Report
Once the lay is cut the cut parts are numbered, all parts that makes one complete
garments are given same number so as to avoid any mismatching of shade. Ply
numbering report is used to maintain the sequence between the plies and to cross
check the no. of plies that has been laid in a lay. The objective of numbering is to avoid
shade variation when all parts of one garment are stitched together. In the absence of
numbering there is a chance of attaching parts, cut from different plies of fabric in one
garment, which might result in shade variation within the garment. Numbering of cut
parts can remove the above mentioned problem by maintaining the number sequence
while attaching different parts or components to form a garment i.e. all parts or
components attached within one garment should have the same ply no., which would
mean that all the parts have been cut from one ply, thus virtually eliminating the
problem of shade variation in a garment.
Bundling Report
After numbering the pieces are bundled into a group of certain pieces and a bundle
ticket attached to it. The bundle ticket carries the detail of the bundles like Cut #, Style
#, Color, Size, Number of Pieces, Bundle #, and the bundle number range for this
particular cut.
27
A bundling report, apart from rechecking the cut quantity for a particular style,
becomes essential when the cutting for a particular style is done across several lots. It
would also help in feeding the sewing lines lot wise thereby reducing the chances of
shade variation occurring due to a mix up in the lots. Also, if there is a part that needs
to be changed from within a bundle, it becomes easier to cut another part with exact
shade matching by cut the extra part from the same lot from which the defected part
was originally cut. A bundle report format has been shown below:
Bundling Report
Team Style No PO No Lot No. Sizes NO Of Pieces Bundle No Cumulative Pieces
After the bundling of the cut parts is over, a cut audit report should be prepared before
the cut parts are issued to the sewing department. A cutting audit is done based on the
AQL method of random sampling. This would be a two tier process i.e. first a bundle
audit and then a piece inspection audit is done. The defects thus found are recorded and
defects per hundred units (DHU) calculated.
28
A bundle audit would essentially check the following:
• Is the bundle no. clearly mentioned.
• Whether the bundle ticket/ tag has all the information required (bundle no.,
lot no., ply no. range, no. of pieces etc.)
• Does the bundle contain all the parts; where a bundle has been made with
multiple parts.
• Is the sequence of ply numbering correct
• Does the no. of pieces correspond with the ply numbers
A piece inspection audit is done by picking up a particular bundle from the lot and
picking all the parts/ components of a particular ply number and checking the
following:
• Shade variation between parts
• Notch position
• Fusing, if any
• Matching, for matching parts
29
Cut Audit Report
SUM
Piece Inspection
S. No. Bundle Ply Shade [a] Notch Position [b] Fusing [c] Matching [d] Remarks
No. No. (all parts) (based on AQL) (based on AQL) for matching parts
0/1, per gmt 0/1, per part 0/1, per part 0/1, per gmt
SUM
DHU = [(a + b + c + d)/(no. of pieces checked x parts/piece)] X 100 =
The above process of cut audit report would render the cut parts ready for being issued
to the sewing room (when the cut parts pass the audit). A cutting issue log or register
should be made to record the cutting being issued to the sewing department. This would
serve as a record to ensure that the cutting quantity required has been cut and delivered
to the sewing department. This includes such style wise details as number of pieces
issued, sizes issued, color issued etc. This would also help the sewing in planning their
lines as per the cutting made available by cutting and define the priority for further
cutting. Each time cutting is issued to sewing and entry is made in the register the same
needs to be duly signed by the person concerned.
30
Cutting Issue Register
Date Style No B. No Cut No S. No. No of Pcs Cumulative Colour Size Issued to line Signature
A fabric utilization report is generated to judge how efficiently the fabric has been
utilized during the cutting process and to compare the estimated fabric consumption
with the actual consumption. It ca also be used to show and ensure that the actual
consumption of fabric is in conjunction with the approved consumption of fabric for a
given style. A sample fabric utilization report has been shown below.
31 te chnopak
Fabric Utilisation Report (Weight)
Balance Balance
Marker Estimated No. of No.of End Bit Shortage Total
S. No. Cut No. after Single after
Way Consumption Plies Garments Weight / Excess Weight
Ply Cutting Recut
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
A daily cutting room efficiency report is to be made for each day to monitor the
efficiency and utilization of each of the sections in the cutting room i.e. spreading,
cutting, numbering, relaying, bundling etc.
32
te chnopak
Cutting Room Efficiency Report
Ply Numbering Style 1 Style 2 Style 3 Style 4 Style 5 Style 6 Style 7 Style 8
Pcs Numbered
Sam / pc
SAM Produced 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Total Numbering SAMs Produced 0
Total Pcs Numbered 0
Total Operators Present
Total Operators Absent
Clock Time Total Clock Time 0
Section Efficiency #DIV/0!
33
Cutting Room Graphs
Graphs which are the best way of measuring and comparing performances should be
used to display the performances in the cutting room with respect to production,
efficiency, quality and manpower. These charts have been shown below:
Daily Cutting Room Production
4200
4000
3800
3600
3400
3200
3000
2800
2600
Production
2400
2200
2000
1800
1600
1400
1200
1000
800
600
400
200
1-Dec 2-Dec 3-Dec 4-Dec 5-Dec 6-Dec 8-Dec 9-Dec 10-Dec 11-Dec 12-Dec 13-Dec 15-Dec 16-Dec 17-Dec 18-Dec 19-Dec 20-Dec 22-Dec 23-Dec 24-Dec 25-Dec 26-Dec 27-Dec 29-Dec 30-Dec
Date
Daily Cutting Room Absenteeism
40%
38%
36%
34%
32%
30%
28%
26%
24%
22%
20%
18%
16%
Absenteeism
14%
12%
10%
8%
6%
4%
2%
0%
1-Dec 2-Dec 3-Dec 4-Dec 5-Dec 6-Dec 8-Dec 9-Dec 10-Dec 11-Dec 12-Dec 13-Dec 15-Dec 16-Dec 17-Dec 18-Dec 19-Dec 20-Dec 22-Dec 23-Dec 24-Dec 25-Dec 26-Dec 27-Dec 29-Dec 30-Dec
Date
34
Daily Cutting Room Efficiency
100%
95%
90%
85%
80%
75%
70%
65%
60%
Efficiency
55%
50%
45%
40%
35%
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%
1-Dec 2-Dec 3-Dec 4-Dec 5-Dec 6-Dec 8-Dec 9-Dec 10-Dec 11-Dec 12-Dec 13-Dec 15-Dec 16-Dec 17-Dec 18-Dec 19-Dec 20-Dec 22-Dec 23-Dec 24-Dec 25-Dec 26-Dec 27-Dec 29-Dec 30-Dec
Date
95%
90%
85%
80%
75%
70%
65%
60%
55%
50%
Cutting Inspection DHU
45%
40%
35%
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%
1-Dec 2-Dec 3-Dec 4-Dec 5-Dec 6-Dec 8-Dec 9-Dec 10-Dec 11-Dec 12-Dec 13-Dec 15-Dec 16-Dec 17-Dec 18-Dec 19-Dec 20-Dec 22-Dec 23-Dec 24-Dec 25-Dec 26-Dec 27-Dec 29-Dec 30-Dec
Date
1.8
1.6
1.4
1.2
Cut Audit DHU
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
1-Dec 2-Dec 3-Dec 4-Dec 5-Dec 6-Dec 8-Dec 9-Dec 10-Dec 11-Dec 12-Dec 13-Dec 15-Dec 16-Dec 17-Dec 18-Dec 19-Dec 20-Dec 22-Dec 23-Dec 24-Dec 25-Dec 26-Dec 27-Dec 29-Dec 30-Dec
Date
35
MATERIAL MOVEMENT IN CUTTING
Cutting room involves lot of material movement between different operations. The
material i.e. fabric is in the form of heavy rolls therefore specially designed material
movement equipments are required for saving time and manpower. Following is the list
of certain material movement that takes place in the Cutting room with suggested mode
of movement.
36
MATERIAL STORAGE IN CUTTING
Cut Parts Bundled parts for issuing to Multi level bakers trolley
sewing
End Bits Balance fabric from rolls Multi level metal racks
37