Rizwan Sarwar 17-NTU-1333

Muhammad Hamza 17-NTU-1320

BSTMM (7th)

Department of Management Sciences

Lab Report for Garment Manufacturing

Submitted to Ma’am Muntaha Rafique

Lab 8
Parts and their functions and threading
of flat lock machine
 Parts and threading of flat lock machine

Abstract:

In this experiment we studied the five thread flat lock machine. The parts of the flat lock
machine was analyzed and the working mechanism was studied. The main parts in this was
the thread stand assembly, Thread tensioner assembly, cylindrical guide, HR device, oil plug,
thread take up lever, needle bar, needle clamp, spreader, looper, slide plate, oil gage, hand
wheel, presser foot controller, thread take up lever cover. The working mechanism of these
parts was studied. The thread stand assembly is the place on which the cone is to place. The
five thread was used in this case. So there are five cones. Obove this there was the thread
guide. Obove that guide there are the two hole pin rod assembly. And there are the tensioner
assembly. There are the five thread tensioner assembly. These are used to give the tension to
the thread. On the both sides of the thread tensioner assembly there are the guides from this
the thread passes. There is the oil plug from which the oil enters in to the machine. The oil
gage is used to check the level of the oil. There are the two cylindrical guides from which the
thread of the looper and the spreader passed. There was the HR device. The HR device has
the silicon oil in it. The silicon oil reduces the friction between the needle and the thread. The
thread cools by the silicon oil because the friction reduces. There are the two thread take up
lever. The thread take up lever takes the thread up and down. It provide the thread when the
needle enters in to the cloth. Both the thread take up lever have the cover over it. There is the
mini tensioner assembly tension to the thread. There are the three needles and the needles are
attached with the help of the needle clamp with the needle bar. The presser foot presses the
fabric. The pressure on the presser foot can be increased or decrease by the presser foot
spring bar regulator assembly. The hand wheel was attached on the right side which have the
graduations over it. Table top is the place on which the machine is present. The looper forms
the loops and the spreader spread the thread. And also done threading of flat lock machine in
this practical.

Introduction:

Flatlock stitching is looks like overlocking on both sides of a seam and is often used in
swimwear, sportswear, on baby's clothes, or just as a decorative exposed seam. You may also
like: Sewing Machine Parts and Functions with Pictures. The flatlock stitch is sewn with one
needle and the upper and lower loopers. There are many types of sewing machines. Some are
used for particular purposes such every bit bar tack machine, button hole machine etc. This
type of machine industrial plant inward a cycle in addition to and hence they are called
elementary automatic machine.

Elements:

1. Upper looper
2. Lower looper
3. Spreader

Objectives:

1. To know nigh the machine parts.

2. To sketch the thread path.
Parts of Flat lock Machine:

1. Thread stand assembly:

2. Thread Cone Holder:
3. Two hole thread guide pin rod assembly:
4. Thread tensioner assembly:
5. Guide Assembly
6. Vertical guide assembly:
7. Feed dog adjuster:
8. Two holes thread guides:
9. Thread take up lever (2).
10. Thread take up lever cover:
11. On off button
12. Needle Bar:
13. Needle Clamp:
14. Needle:
15. Mini tensioner assembly
16. Presser Foot:
17. Presser Foot Spring Bar Regulating Assembly:
18. Presser foot bar
19. Foot lifter:
20. Foot paddle:
21. Oil gauge:
 22. Oil plug
23. Oil Side Window:
24. Oil tank:
25. Belt Cover:
26. Table top
27. Graduated hand wheel:
28. Differential feed regulator:
29. Stich Dial:
30. Spreader:
31. HR device:
32. Machine bed
33. Machine head
34. looper
35. Slide plate:
Functions of the parts;

1. Thread stand assembly:

It holds the thread. It have spindle over it as the bobbin placed over it. The yarn moves from
the guide and enters to machine parts.

2. Thread Cone Holder:

The place where the cone is placed is spindle and this place is called thread cone holder.
There are five thread stand holder on which the five cones are placed (two for the looper and
three for the needle)

3. Two hole thread guide pin rod assembly:

Two holes thread guide guides the thread from the thread stand assembly towards machine
parts. It has two hole the thread pass from the top to the down direction.
4. Thread tensioner assembly:
The thread tensioner assembly gives the tension to the thread. There are five thread tensioner
assembly because there are five thread. Each gets tension from the separate tensioner
assembly. these all have the guides in the up and the down position.
5. Guide Assembly
Guide assembly guides the thread toward the different parts of the machine and the can be
open or closed. Thread guide keeps the thread in its position. There are guides that depend on
the number of threads. There are five threads.

6. Vertical guide assembly:

The vertical guide assembly is in the form of the tube and they are present in the form of the
vertical position and the thread pass vertically through it . the on for the spreader and the one
for the looper
7. Feed dog adjuster:
The feed dog adjuster is used to adjust the feed dog according to the fabric. The feed dog can
be adjusted downward for the coarser and the feed dog can be adjusted upward for the light
fabric

8. Two holes thread guides:

Thread guide is used to guide the thread. And it has the two holes

9. Thread take up lever (2).

During the sewing the top thread passes from the thread take up lever. The thread take up
lever move up and down. The thread take up lever move with the movement of the needle.
Thread take up lever provide the thread when the needle enters in to the cloth. There are two
thread take up lever and both have the cover
10. Thread take up lever cover:
Thread take up lever move the thread up and down. The thread take up lever have the cover
over it.

11. On off button

On and off button used to on off the machine.

12. Needle Bar:

Needle bar steel rod that holds the needle with the help of the clamp don’t allow the needle to
move freely and needle remain at one place. The needle bar gives the motion to needle.

13. Needle Clamp:

Needle clamps holds the needle and the needle due to this tighten at one place not move
freely and holds the needle to its actual place.
14. Needle:
Needle is made of metal which is sharpen from one end and have holes on it and above
portion is tighten with the clamp and from the hole thread passes and needle moves upward
and downward for stitching. There are three needles in this case

15. Mini tensioner assembly

The mini tensioner assembly is in the small size and used to give the tension to the thread. It
give very little tension to the thread.

16. Presser Foot:

Presser foot holds the fabric at one place and don’t allow fabric to move forward and
backward. The pressing power of presser foot is controlled by the machine shank. According
to the type of fabric, we increase or decrease the pressure by the presser foot spring bar
regulating assembly

17. Presser Foot Spring Bar Regulating Assembly:

It is used to increase or decrease pressure of presser foot

18. Presser foot bar

Presser foot bar steel rod that holds the presser foot with the help of the clamp don’t allow
the presser foot to move freely and presser foot remain at one place.

19. Foot lifter:

The foot lifter is use for the slightly lifting of the presser foot. It is placed beside the machine
paddle its function is only the lifting of the presser foot for a short time

20. Foot paddle:

The foot pedal is use to control the speed. When the foot paddle press by foot forward then
the speed increase and when the foot paddle pressed in the backward by foot then the speed
decrease

21. Oil gauge:

Oil gauge is s used to check the level of the oil in the machine. The level of the oil in the
machine should not be low and should not be high. The low level of the oil do not cause
lubrication in the machine parts and the obove then high level causes the staining on the
fabric.
22. Oil Side Window:
Oil side window is used to check the oil in the machine. If the oil moves in the oil side
window then machine have oil otherwise the oil is low.

23. Oil plug:

The oil plug has the cover over it and we opened the cover and enters the oil to fill the tank
24. Oil tank:
The portion where the oil is placed is called the oil tank and in the lock stich machine there
was the oil pane where the oil was placed and in the flat lock machine there is a oil pane in
which the oil is to placed.

25. Belt Cover:

Belt cover covers the belt. Sometimes machine is stopped by hand so the hand can be caught
by machine. So the manufacturers covered the belt with belt cover

26. Table top

The portion where the machine of flat lock stich machine is placed is called the table top. In
some machine on the front of the table top there may be the measuring tape

27. Graduated hand wheel:

Hand wheel is of circular shape and made up of metal so that machine can run from hand and
its other side is attached with belt. And in this case it has graduations over it

28. Differential feed regulator:

The differential feed regulator is used to adjust the rate by which the flat locking occur
actually it is used to form the better seams on the fabric (not wavy seam on the stretch fabric)

29. Stich Dial:

Stitch per inch dial is used to increase or decrease stitch per inch. The number of stiches per
inch can be controlled by the stich dial.

30. Spreader:
The spreader is used instead of the one looper in this case. The purpose of the spreader is to
spread the thread and looper forms the loop and the needle stich these.

31. HR device:
The HR device (oil box) is the small box having the silicon oil in it. The purpose of the HR
device is to place the silicon on the thread so that the thread with stand during the process of
passing from the needle. Because the machine have the very high speed. The thread can break
due to the high speed of the machine (friction between the needle and the thread). Heat
produces and this cool that thread.
32. Machine bed
The machine bed is of the cylindrical shape. It is cylinder type bed.

33. Machine head

The upper part of the machine is called the machine head.

34. looper
The only one looper in this case is used. The looper is at the down of slide plate and the
looper has two holes. The looper is used for the forming of the loop. The spreader spread the
thread and the looper form the loop and the needle stich these.

35. Slide plate:

The slide plates is in the middle of the machine. Below the slide plate there is the looper. The
slide plate can freely move. So threading for the looper can be easily done.

Threading

In this machine, five threads are used, and every thread has its specific guides. Therefore,
each guide is discussing separately for better understanding of thread passage.

Thread Stand Assembly:

Its function is holding cones for thread providing for machine. It contains five cones
three for needles, one for spreader and one for looper. First, thread is unwinding from cones.

Thread guide “A” on thread guide assembly:

Unwinding threads are passing through firstly this guide. This guide is having five
holes for providing path for passing threads. Every thread direction is back to front when
passing through it.

Diagram:
Thread guide pin rod:
After passing threads from thread guide “A” then passing through thread guide pin
rod and every thread direction is back to front when passing through it.

Diagram:

Two holes thread guides:

After passing through thread guide pin rod every thread is passing through two holes
thread guide. Thread direction is thread enter first hole and then moves back of second hole
and in this way, thread is again entering from second hole from its back.

Diagram:

Note:
This is last guide for threads for combing passing through same guides. After this,
every thread has its own path for reaching towards destination. In other words, every thread is
gaining separate guides for smooth passing. For needles same path and same guides for
moving towards destination. But looper and spreader gain separate path and guides for
reaching destination. Therefore, for better understanding we are discussed these paths and
guides separately.

Vertical rod like thread guide:

Two threads for looper and spreader are passed through these vertical rod-like guides.
Direction for these threads are enter from top side of these guides and emitting from lower
side of these guides.
Diagram:

Thread tensioner assembly:

This machine is having five tensioners. Every tensioner is specific due to its
destination.
Three tensioners are used for needles, one tensioner is used for looper and one tensioner is
used for spreader. But direction of passing thread through these tensioners are similar. These
tensioners are having guides therefore, threads are firstly entered these guides and direction
for threads are back to front. After this, direction of threads are entered these tensioners
making curves due to tensioner shape after that thread is enter the thread guide which is
attached the lower portion of the tensioner and threads are enter these guides from back to
front (thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:

Note:
After this, threads are gained separate paths for needles, looper and spreader.
For Needles:
Note:
For needles thread guides are same. Therefore, we are discussed, combine explanation
for three threads.

HR Device:
Threads are passing through this device. This device is having two guides which are
locating outside of this device. These guides are “three holes thread guides” because these
guides are having three holes. Direction for threads for these guides are back to front (threads
are inserted from back). And HR Device is locating between these guides. And threads are
lubricant in this way, from HR Device.

Diagram:

Three guides like pin rod:

These guides are consisting of three rods which is having holes at upper side for
thread guide. These guides positions are step by step in height. Direction for threads are back
to front (thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:
 (Side view) (Top view)

Note:
This machine having two “three threads take up lover”.

Three threads take up lever “1”:

It is located after three guides like pin rod. Direction for threads are back to front for
three thread take up lever “1” (thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:

(Top view)
Three thread take up lever “2”:
It is located upper left side of machine. Direction for threads are back to front for
three thread take up lever “2” (thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:

Open guide like saw:

After this, threads are passed through open thread guide like saw. Direction for
threads are upper to lower (threads are inserted in this “open thread guide like saw” from
upper side of machine that time when threads are emitted from “three thread take up lever
“2””).

Diagram:

Miner tensioner and close threads guide:

After passing through “open guide kike saw”. Then, threads are passing through
lighter tensioner direction for threads are upper to lower (threads are inserted in this “miner
tensioner” from upper side. After this miner tensioner having lower side “closed thread
guide”. Threads ara also passed through this close guide. Direction for threads is upper to
lower (threads are inserted from upper side).
Diagram:

Needles:
Finally, threads are passing through needles separate. Every single thread is passing
through single needle.

Diagram:

For looper:

Thread guide “A”:

After passing through tensioner assembly thread is passed through “thread guide “A”.
Direction for thread is back to front (thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:

Thread guide “B” parallel close guides:

After passing through “thread guide “A”” thread
is passed through “thread guide “B”.
In this thread guide “B”, two parallel close guides where thread is passed through these
parallel close guides. Direction for thread is back to front for these parallel close guides
(thread is inserted from back).

Diagram:

Thread guide “C”:

After thread guide “B” thread is passed through thread guide “C”, three parallel
threads guides are fitted in thread guide “C”. thread is passed through thread guide “C” where
three consecutive close threads guides. Direction for thread passing is back to front for every
close guide (thread is inserted from back side).

Diagram:

Looper:
At last, thread is passed through looper. Looper having two holes. Direction of thread
enters first hole from its back and emitted from front area after this thread is enters second
hole from front and emitted from back of lower looper and in this way thread is inserted in
the looper.

Diagram:
For Spreader:

Horizontal thread guide:

After passing through tensioner assembly thread is passed through horizontal thread
guide. This horizontal thread guide is having two holes. Direction of thread is entering from
first hole from its back side and emitted from its front side. Then, thread is passed through
second hol hole from its back and emitted from its front side (thread is inserted both guides
from their backs).
Diagram:

Thread guide “A”:

After passing through “horizontal thread guide” thread is passed through “thread
guide “A”. in this thread guide, three close thread guides where thread is passed through
these three close thread guides. Direction for thread is back to front (thread is inserted from
back).

Diagram:
Thread guide “B”:
After passing through “thread guide “A” thread is passed through thread “B”.
Direction for thread is upper to lower.

Diagram:

Miner tensioner:
After thread guide “B” thread is passed through miner tensioner. Direction for thread
is upper to left side towards thread guide “C” and making curve when passes through miner
tensioner according to miner tensioner shape.

Diagram:

Thread guide “C”:

After passing through “thread guide “B” thread is passed through thread “C”.
Direction for thread is back to front (thread is inserted from back side).
Diagram:

Thread guide “D”:

After passing through “thread guide “C” thread is passed through thread “D”.
Direction for thread is upper to lower.

Diagram:

Thread guide “E”:

After passing through “thread guide “D” thread is passed through thread “E”.
Direction for thread is upper to lower.

Diagram:
Spreader:
At last, thread is placed on spread. Direction of thread is thread moves front side of
spreader.

Discussion:
This machine is play very important role in stitching industries. Because it is use in
special purposes. This machine has ability to run five threads same time and these threads
perform works on garments. This machine is use for special purposes because high amount of
threads are sewing garments.

Conclusion:
From this experiment we concluded that the different parts of the machine was analyzed and
their working mechanism was studied. There thread stand assembly have the thread cone over
it. And the thread stand assembly have the two holes thread guide and the two holes pin rod
assembly. Next to it there is the thread tensioner assembly which give the tension to the
thread. The thread tensioner assembly have the hole on the both side. There are the two
cylindrical guides. The one guide is for the looper and the one guide e is for the spreader. The
looper forms the loops and the spreader spreads the thread. There is the HR device that have
the silicon inside it. The silicon reduces the friction between the thread and the needle. There
are the two thread take up lever that provide the thread when the needle enters in to the cloth.
And it moves up and down. Both the thread take up lever have the cover over it. There is the
oil plug from which we enters the oil in the machine. The oil side window is used to check
the oil . The oil gage is used to check the level of the oil. There are three needles that are
attached with the needle bar with the help of the clamp. There are many other parts that was
analyzed so finally I concluded from this experiment that the different parts of the flat lock
machine was analyzed and their working principle was studied. After this experiment we are
concluded that first thread guides are same but when threads are moving towards their
destination then paths are change in this way, guides are also change. And learn after this
experiment every guide having special purpose according to its place and guiding the thread
because some guides provides the tension and smooth path for threads.