Textile Today January 2021 Issue

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January 2021
in
An Innovation Hub Year
Unveiling industry best practices

2021: Challenges
before the RMG
Issue 01 | 100 Pages |
industry
Apparel accessories & fashion

Expediting regional
January 2021
cooperation in trade
and transport
connectivity
Volume 14 |
Amid pandemic
Cematex and Swissmem
are optimizing processes
and launching
innovations to ensure a
sustainable future
See at page 27 See at page 19 See at page 13
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Driving business with knowledge
Editorial Panel
Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim
Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed
Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)
Eousup Novee
Managing Editor
Akhi Akter
Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Technical Team
Co-ordinator
Setara Begum
Member
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Editor & Publisher

A.S.M Tareq Amin
Published on 30th January 2021 by

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January 2021
in
Bangladesh
An Innovation Hub Year
On the Cover
2021: Challenges
before the RMG
Issue 01 | 100 Pages |
industry
Expediting regional

cooperation in trade
and transport
connectivity
Volume 14 |
Amid pandemic
Cematex and Swissmem
are optimizing processes
and launching
sustainable future
Content
Sciessent, supplier of the Agion
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Advertisement
January’ 21 | Volume 14 | Issue 01
12 Editorial 22-25 Top Story 32-33 BTMA Initiatives

How exporters can avoid
fraud buyers
14-17 Cover Story
Expediting regional cooperation in

trade and transport connectivity
BTMA's initiatives in pandemic to

26-28 In Focus ensure a sustainable future
34-36 Cover Plus
2021: Challenges before

the RMG industry
18-21 Innovation Textile industry is turning Facilitating market access

Today toward eco-friendly solutions for Cottage, Micro, Small and
to become more sustainable Medium Enterprises (CMSMEs) of
Bangladesh
29-30 Export Updates

39-41 Exclusive
Demands shock sends
Interview
Bangladesh apparel exports to
US down 16% in 2020
38
Q&A
How can material
2020’s top textile innovations
sourcing be
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25 Yarn Update
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Content January’ 21 | Volume 14 | Issue 01
Apparel Today 54-55 Fiber Today Denim Today
45-46 Green 63-66 Industry Best

Benchmark Practice
What makes lotus silk the

rarest fiber in the world?
Business transparency and

honesty makes Aman Graphics 55 Order Dealing Nice Denim Mills: A one-stop
and Designs Ltd. example for Tips solution for quality denim
apparel industry fabric, competitive price and
shorter lead time
47 LEED
Certification 68-69 Dyeing
Updates
Commercialization process
of natural indigo dye in
11 tips to deal with small orders Bangladesh
70-72 Sustainable
56 Exports Washing
Update
AGDL awarded Green Building Sustainable solutions for
‘LEED Platinum-2009’ stone and acid wash in
Certificate by USGBC denim industry
48-50 Order Trends 73-74 Recycled

Denim
Denim market to
Home textile exports post grow globally with
robust growth by 48% in H1 growing demand
of FY21 for recycled and
new materials
Fair distribution of orders can 58 Event Today
help Bangladesh’s RMG to
recover smoothly Dongyi Sourcing Ltd
75-76 Innovation
targets $100 mn revenue
Steering
by 2025
51-52 Fashion Today
Textile Engineering Dept. of
Primeasia University attained
accreditation from IEB
Optima Kimya joins
Textile Today in the
59 Marketing Tips road of innovation
Beginners’ guidelines for
Global scenario of suit and marketing in a manufacturing
blazer fashion company
Editorial
How exporters can

avoid fraud buyers
Akhi Akter
According to recent TV news, Bangladesh's 30 Export Procedure

garment exporters have been defrauded of millions
of dollars by local Freight Forwarding Agent, Exporters Freight
Shipping Lines, and Foreign Buyers. Bangladesh Forwarders
Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
(BGMEA) has intervened in the whole matter to the
Home Minister as the deceived exporters are going Bank Shipping
door to door for justice. Clearance Lines
Md. Jahangir Hossain exported garments worth
$388,000 through a local Freight Forwarding Agent.
The shipment arrives at USA port and is picked up
by freight forwarding agents and buyers later. First, Buyers
the buyers place the order by LC then the buyers
received the goods through freight forwarding
agents at the port without any payment clearance.
However, under international law freight forwarders Export Fraud
and shipping lines cannot release goods without the
approval of exporters and banks.
Freight Shipping
The 30 victims have sought justice from BGMEA. Faisal
Samad, Vice-President of BGMEA, said that every year Forwarders Lines
many traders are suffering due to such fraudulent
buyers and agencies which needs a quick solution.
According to BGMEA, many traders have lost a huge Buyers
amount of money worth TK 250 crore due to such fraud
in exports. Therefore, BGMEA has taken the matter Figure: Following the correct export procedure can be the best
directly to the Home Minister to prevent this fraud. solution to avoid such fraud.
The Bangladesh Freight Forwarders Association members. Syed Mohammad Bakhtiar, Vice President
has claimed that it is not involved with rogue of Bangladesh Freight and Forwards Association,
said, "We do not do this business with any personal
How exporters can avoid fraud buyers initiative. We do not give any concessions to our
members. The Freight and Forward Association
Following correct export procedure has advised exporters to add fraudulent buyers to
blacklisted companies and to trade with caution.
Adding fraudulent buyers to
MM Uddin, CEO, A2Z Sourcing said, “Our exporters
blacklisted companies
do not follow the proper process to identify the true
buyers. We have some illogical foreigner fascination,
Operating trade more cautiously while someone from foreign people approaches for
buying products from us, many of us do not follow
the right process to sell the products. So, to get
Freight forwarders & shipping lines rid of the problem we need to build proper policy/
mustn't release goods without approval process and follow the process strictly.”
of exporters & banks
However, exporters are hoping for the best solution.
They requested the banks and other financial
Govt & exporters associations should
institutions to cooperate with them without giving any
have strong policy regarding this
pressure until these unexpected bills are resolved.
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all trademarks mentioned are trademarks of Huntsman Corporation or an affiliate thereof. PHOBOL® and PHOBOTEX® are
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Cover Story
2021:
The RMG industry of Bangladesh has been
unprecedentedly disrupted by the Covid-19, and
the recovery process is quite challenging for the
industry since the crisis persists. The first wave of
the pandemic swamped the industry through the
Challenges
cancellation of orders, deferred payments/discounts
by buyers, cash crunch hitting the backbone of the
industry to maintain regular operations of the industry.
before
Thanks to our Honorable Prime Minister for her
gracious and visionary steps which helped the
industry to stay afloat during the peak hour of
Covid-19. Extension of wage assistance loan and
other vital stimulus packages for this industry,
the RMG
especially the easing off and enhancement of the
export development fund, retention of foreign
currency in a single pool for Back-to-Back import
payments, extending the tenure of realization of
industry
export proceeds, and most importantly suspension
of loan classification enabled us to withstand the
effect of the first wave.
While we were trying to recover from the shock

caused by the first wave of the pandemic during
Dr. Rubana Huq, President, BGMEA July-September of 2020, the second wave marked
its beginning during the final quarter of 2020 and
Cover Story
has worsened the situation. On this Though we don’t have an • vulnerability and support
backdrop, it is difficult to project inclusive picture over the real- needed to reconstruct the
2021 since there is a number of time ‘cancellation’ scenario in the industry
uncertainties around us. industry and non-payments, but a
survey on 50 factories shows that This is important to note the
Recovery from the virus, as well instead of cancellation buyers are differences between the impact
as the recovery of the global following a ‘go slow’ approach in of the first wave and the second
economy, trade and business is placing new orders and factories wave of COVID-19. With a slight
still ambiguous to a great extent. reported 30% less order, which pause, the recurrence of COVID
Based on the current trend and is the picture industry-wide and has appeared as ‘decapitating the
scenario it appears that the global getting worse day by day. already dead’.
apparel market may continue to
experience a slowdown till May/ Though the first wave was more Injured by the first wave the
June 2021. severe and cancellation during the industry was already bleeding
second wave is not that rampant, and left to such a disrupted and
Major challenges for the industry but buyers are following a different weakest position that severity of
approach to managing their supply a fraction of the magnitude of the
• Slowdown in export first wave may be more intense.
chain. Instead of cancellation, we
The second wave of Covid-19 has are experiencing a slowdown in
Important to note that –
already forced us to experience order placements.
its severity as it crippled the 1. The industry has lost 6 billion
This is as severely adverse as the
western world. Cities in Europe dollars in export in FY2019-20,
first wave since factories are not
and the USA, which are the major meaning that the capacity was
being able to have a forecast
markets of our clothing, are either seriously under-utilized.
and plan their capacity. Such an
under lockdown or state of emergency.
uncertainty puts the industry in 2. Acceptation of high discounts
Export has been on a falling trend once
an unpredictable situation and and delayed payments to clear
again during October – December
impacts in the area of – the canceled goods which have
2020, after a slight recovery in August
and September 2020. its impact on the financial stability
1. Uncertainty over confirmed
of this industry (we lost 4.85% of
business, shipment, payment
RMG export in October 2020 has unit value since September on a
and WIPs
declined by 7.78% on a year-over- year-over-year basis)
year (y-o-y) basis, while October 2. Allocation of capacity (utilized
2019 had seen 19.79%, meaning 3. The forced loan has been
and unutilized)
that the growth in October 2018 created against factories mostly
and 2020 is -26.03%. Similarly, 3. Optimum management of working for bankrupted buyers
the y-o-y growth of export in supply chain and use of
4. The industry had to pay wages
November 2020 was -2.66%, but resources
and all the regular payments
growth between November 2018
4. Economic impact and business (essential overhead). The
and 2020 is -14.32%.
viability repayment of the wage support
The recently published data loan is scheduled to start from
for December makes it more • Unprecedented decline in price January 2021 which has a
appalling as export plunged by significant financial bearing on
While the price decline has already factories. An example might
9.69%. This wrapped the annual
been a trend in the global market be helpful to understand the
export performance with an
for decades, the COVID-19-led scenario. If a factories’ wage bill
unprecedented fall of 16.94%.
disruption has further escalated is 1 crore taka per month, then it
• Changing buying behavior and the situation. has drawn (1X4 =) 4 crore takas
underutilization of capacity as wage loan incentive for April-
We have lost 2.87%-unit value
July, and an equal installment
With the detection of the new in 2020, and during September-
over 18 months would cost 22
strain of the virus and retail sales December the decline was
lacs Taka per month, which is
growth in both the USA and EU recorded at 4.82%. Given the
one-fifth of the usual wages of a
been on a declining trend (i.e., -16% scenario of underutilization of
regular month.
in November and -13% in October capacity which already spurred
2020 respectively), the situation cost and increased cost of During this crisis moment, when
has further aggravated at the compliance especially to maintain factories are still in a troubling
buying end. health and safety at factories, such situation and difficult to stay in
a scenario is unsustainable.
Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 15

Cover Story
business with regular expenses bad loans and outstanding non-payments to suppliers across
when the price is slashed up to liabilities for a considerable tenure borders must be taken with
5% which is around 30% of the so that the factories don’t suffer adequate importance. Appropriate
monthly wage, so the payment from suffocating borrowing limits safeguard measure is also needed
of 20% additional wages while from banks. globally by forums like WTO
operating in less capacity- or WCO or UNCTAD or ICC in
efficiency thus assuming We are ever grateful for the collaboration with developed and
increased overhead costs per supports from the government developing nations to ensure due
unit of product, and getting less which saved the industry and the diligence in trade.
paid of an amount equivalent livelihood of our 4.1 million workers
to 30% of monthly wages, it is from a possible catastrophic Besides, we need policy reforms
logically and mathematically not consequence of the first wave. We to resolve insolvency so that it
supporting the business model. hope that through the continued protects business and investment,
support from the government we also makes the path of new
5. Moreover, since the export will be able to stay in the course entrepreneurs’ smoother. The
markets are deeply shocked throughout the second wave, though need for a safe exit policy has
by the second wave and the it’s very difficult to foresee the been an urge by the industry for
impact on export is apparent, severity of the impact on the global quite some time, and the post-
to allow the factories to survive economy and the recovery process. pandemic reconstruction of the
and to protect the livelihoods of industry may falter without an
millions a second stimulus package, • Vulnerability in the trading appropriate arrangement to deal
particularly wage assistance loan system, e.g., contractual with insolvencies.
would be critical for the industry arrangement
for at least 4 months. • Maintaining health and hygiene
COVID has exposed the at workplace
Reconstruction of the industry vulnerability in global trade
from the damages done by which needs to be addressed While saving the industry from
COVID-19 and protecting the pragmatically and systematically further disruption by COVID
livelihoods of our workers is of to make trade more predictable, and maintaining safer operation,
topmost priority for us in 2021. safer and sustainable for mankind. particularly the health and
While we need legal protection The weaknesses in the contractual hygiene practices across the
to save our factories from arrangements between parties in industry, would be the priority
forced loans caused by buyers’ global trade is something which in the coming days. BGMEA has
bankruptcies, special measures has been exposed by COVID and taken several steps in this area in
are needed to allow factories needs to be addressed. collaboration with ILO and Maya
turnaround from the damages, to raise awareness among the
The situations like bankruptcies workers at factories.
particularly relieving them from
of the global brands and resulting
Legal protection to save

factories from buyers' forced
loans, bankruptcies etc.
Special measures for factories

Reconstructing to turnaround from bad loans
measures of
and outstanding liabilities for
textile & apparel
a considerable tenure
in 2021
More govt. support
Figure: Reconstructing measures of textile & apparel in 2021
16 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

Cover Story
• 4th IR led disruptions ($25 billion out of $34 billion), with preference-giving countries
which will be completely waived are important. Therefore, charting
Technology has been one of the and the margin of preference will our path to sustainable graduation,
few great forces which is going diminish for Bangladeshi products effectively pursuing the matter of
to reshape the industry and compared to our competitor insolvency resolution would be on
the supply chain in near future, countries, especially for Vietnam our cards.
be it digital payment of wages since Vietnam has signed FTA with
or pursuing the path toward EU which will come in to force Author: Rubana Huq is the
innovation. next month or in August this year. President of BGMEA.
The readymade garment industry Furthermore, in the EU, we • Diversification

has already made a significant enjoy single transformation
move in the area of digital wage Diversification of products within
rules of origin under EBA at this
payments recently, and as per RMG as well as diversifying the
moment, and with the graduation,
the visionary leadership and export sectors will be key to
Bangladesh will have 2 options
directives by our Honorable Prime Bangladesh’s sustained industrial
– GSP Plus or Standard GSP, and
Minister Sheikh Hasina almost all development.
both of them require double
the garment workers were paid transformation rules of origin Concluding Remarks
with their wages digitally (either which is difficult for us and will
through digital bank transfer or make it difficult to fully utilize It’s difficult to draw a prediction
mobile financial outlets) during the EU GSP as we are currently on 2021 since we have many
the months of the first wave of enjoying. uncertainties to be cleared
COVID. BGMEA has been actively like containing the virus and
involved with the government and the success of the vaccines/
promoting digital wage payment
since last year, and currently, we are It’s difficult to draw vaccination, and how quickly the
global economy responds in the
collaborating with an agency which a prediction on post-pandemic era.
is working on an interoperable 2021 since we have
digital transaction model. Probably we are at the end of the
many uncertainties tunnel, but the ray is not visible yet
Besides innovation and to be cleared like to project the future confidently. But
efficiency has been one of the
priority agenda for us to ensure
containing the virus we certainly hope that 2021 will be a
year of coming back and we expect
business sustainability, and and the success the industry to make a turnaround
we are working on that front of the vaccines/ sometime in mid-2021. Now we
to enable our members easily
access technologies, in terms of
vaccination, and need to be more watchful and
monitor the situation cautiously.
building capacity through skills how quickly the
development as well as creating global economy Given the fact that Bangladesh
access to finance. occupies only 6.8% of the global
responds in the market, we have enormous
The increasing share of online post-pandemic era. potentials and strengths to
sales vis-à-vis brick and mortars contribute more to our economy in
has gained further momentum due the coming days.
to COVID-led germophobia which
Besides, there are few criteria
may significantly change the
that a country should meet to
buying behavior of the consumers. Author
qualify for GSP Plus, especially the
So, it is high time Bangladesh
ratification and compliance to 27
revisited its strategy regarding
international conventions and the
online marketing and sales.
condition to comply with the 7.4%
• Market access in post LDC era threshold will come on our way to
and sustainable graduation retain preferential access to the EU
market.
LDC graduation is a matter of
pride for us and it is important With everything set and done, with
for us to also understand the Vietnams EUFTA coming into play, Dr. Rubana Huq
challenges that Bangladesh has. the extension of EBA (through
President, Bangladesh Garment
73% of Bangladesh’s RMG exports bilateral or multilateral initiatives),
Manufacturers and Exporters
enjoy duty-free access as an LDC and exploring FTA possibilities Association (BGMEA)

I n n o v a t i o n To d a y
2020’s top textile innovations

RH Tania
Given the challenges just pandemic. brands worldwide to over 1 billion

to survive in 2020 amid the products from face masks and
Developed in record time and
coronavirus pandemic’s economic apparel to home textiles.
launched after Swiss authorities
toll, textile companies worked a
announced the lockdown in In the first-ever test use of the
lot on research and development.
March, HeiQ Viroblock has had International Standardization
Fabric, fiber, and dyeing and
a major impact on the global Organization (ISO) method on the
finishing companies came up with
textile industry and is being coronavirus on textiles, Polygiene
new ways to improve performance,
adopted by fabric mills around ViralOff was confirmed as the first
comfort and sustainability. They
the world. Some of the brands commercial textiles treatment to
utilize the crisis as inspiration
that have taken up HeiQ Viroblock reduce the virus by more than 99
for perhaps the most innovative
are Burberry, Mammut, Cornelia percent over two hours.
creations of the year.
James, DL1961, SertaSimmons
The Swiss treatments company
Antivirals technologies Bedding, Outdoor Research,
said the purpose of treating
Buff, Craighoppers, Aviro, Albini,
That was the case with textile textiles with ViralOff is not to
Malwee and the Medical Supply
solutions company HeiQ, which protect the wearer from infection
Company of Switzerland.
recently received first prize in or make any other health claim,
the prestigious Swiss Technology HeiQ Viroblock has been proven but to protect the garment
Awards for its breakthrough to be one of the world’s most because it then does not have
antiviral textile technology HeiQ efficient and effective antiviral/ to be cleaned or disinfected.
Viroblock and its contribution to antimicrobial technologies and has Beyond the environmental effects
stemming the spread of the global been applied by more than 150 of wearing more and washing
Figure 1: HeiQ Viroblock antiviral technology is used in protective masks.

I n n o v a t i o n To d a y
less, some countries demand percent wood pulp and 40 percent

Amid Covid-19,
disinfection of products before recycled plastic waste, will both be
antivirals technologies
they are sold, making garments used in the construction of taffeta
made revolutionary
treated with ViralOff particularly and jacquard evening gowns for
advancements globally
attractive. H&M. We are SpinDye’s SpinDye
technology, an environmentally
Recycled and renewable
friendly dyeing method, and Made Recycled and renewable ways
Fashion brands made major strides of Air, a carbon-negative plastic, like reducing waste, carbon
this year in reusing goods to are also used in apparel and footprint, sustainability goals
manufacture fibers and fabrics. For sunglasses from the line. -made major improvements
many companies, it’s part of their
Nan Ya Plastics, a manufacturer
commitment to reducing waste,
of recycled PET fibers, created a Alternative materials
carbon footprint and their overall
new unit called Saya to include from natural sources
sustainability goals.
recycled cutting scraps and gained popularity
Clean manufacturing specialist fabric, bringing new options to
Genomatica signed a deal with the textile industry. Saya 365 Eco-friendly dyeing and
Aquafil to build a demonstration- features a proprietary, five-stage finishing technologies
scale facility to produce the filtration process followed by two becoming popular
largest-ever quantity of 100 stages of purification that result
percent renewable nylon 6. in batch optimized flakes and Figure: Top textile innovations in 2020.
Responding to rising consumer pellets ready to be transformed
interest in sustainable products, into performance fibers. Saya has expand the production of the
the material will go to global greater tenacity, dyeing accuracy latter’s innovative Brewed Protein
brands eager to explore and and brighter whites compared to polymers for use in apparel and
develop renewable products, conventional recycled fibers, the other consumer products. The
create showcase-worthy goods, company said. Brewed Protein polymers will
and test feedback with customers. be produced by ADM in the U.S.
Saya 365 is derived from plastic
Genomatica and Aquafil are bottles sourced from Asia and using plant-based dextrose as a
now moving directly to a larger- beyond, providing consistent feedstock, and then shipped to
than-typical demonstration scale and cost-effective supply for Spiber’s downstream facilities,
to support initial commercial sustainable options in polyester where they will be processed into
applications by committed brand fiber. Saya Coastal targets clean- an array of materials, primarily
partners, with the first production up and renewal of discarded fibers, for use in a variety of
runs slated to create 50 tons of plastic bottles in coastal regions applications such as apparel,
bio-nylon for pre-commercial use that would otherwise migrate out to lightweight auto parts and high-
by Genomatica’s brand partners. sea, as 80 percent of ocean plastics performance foams.
“Bio-nylon is positioned to originates from coastal land. Eastman, the producer of

replace a material that’s used Meridian Specialty Yarn Group sustainably sourced Naia cellulosic
in millions of applications every introduced polyester yarns fiber, introduced its Naia Renew
day,” Genomatica CEO Christophe processed with CiCLO technology portfolio, sourced from 60 percent
Schilling said. “Our research shows that represents a sustainable, wood pulp and 40 percent
that despite health and economic high-performance alternative recycled waste plastics. Naia
turmoil, 56 percent of Americans to conventional polyester for Renew cellulosic fiber is traceable
still want brands to prioritize performance wear and medical with certified biodegradability
sustainability.” personal protective equipment (PPE). that captures the value of hard-
to-recycle materials that could
H&M Group continued to take The CiCLO technology allows otherwise be destined for landfills.
steps toward a more sustainable polyester fibers to break down Naia Renew is available as a
future through an expanded in landfills and the ocean at rates filament or staple fiber.
partnership with Swedish textile comparable to a natural fiber like
recycling company Re:newcell wool, according to Meridian. The Eastman also collaborated with
to supply it with virgin quality company is initially introducing Dupont Biomaterials to launch
Circulose fibers made from the yarns to hosiery markets for a fabric collection made with
unusable textile waste. performance and hiking socks. biobased materials. The joint effort
blends Naia from Eastman and
Circular Systems’ Agraloop Alternative materials Dupont Sorona fibers to create
Biofiber, made from oil-seed hemp
Agricultural firm ADM and Spiber garments with exceptional stretch
waste, and Naia Renew, a closed-
Inc., a Japanese biotech outfit, and recovery, luxurious drape and
loop cellulosic fiber made with 60
are combining their expertise to a soft hand. The new collection will

Ya r n P r i c e U p d a t e s I n n o v a t i o n To d a y
expand sustainable fabric choices “kick-start the decarbonization of Spinnova’s inherent dyeing process
for designers to use for everyday the textile industry.” This means involves mass dyeing the cellulosic
casual wear. that the emissions associated fiber mass before extruding
with the fibers’ production, into filament, which avoids the
H&M Group, Bestseller, PVH Corp.,
manufacturing and distribution excessive use of water, energy,
Wrangler and Patagonia are
have been calculated and reduced heavy metals and other harmful
collaborating with Infinited Fiber
through engagement with industry substances that typically go into
Company to develop a viable
partners wherever possible and dyeing fiber, thread and fabric as
circular alternative to virgin cotton,
offset where not. subsequent processes.
ultimately enhancing their ability
to respond to growing customer The move is part of Lenzing’s Unifi Inc. introduced Repreve
sustainability demands. longer-term “true carbon zero” cationic-dyeable polyester, an
campaign, which will deploy expansion of its Our Ocean
Infinited Fiber Company said its
four “key levers” in the areas of offering. Combining sustainability
technology can turn any cellulose-
energy reduction, renewable and innovation, the cationic-
rich material into a biodegradable
energy, new technology and dyeable delivers 100 percent
and “re-recyclable” soft fiber with
supplier engagement to halve Repreve heathers and solids to the
a natural look and feel. A whole
its greenhouse-gas emissions by market. Dyeing these yarns could
range of wardrobe items from
2030 and achieve climate-neutral result in energy savings compared
T-shirts and hoodies to dress shirts
production with zero net-carbon to some traditional disperse-
and jeans can be made with the fiber.
emissions by 2050. dyed polyester by utilizing lower
Lenzing launched two temperatures, Unifi noted. For
Dyeing and finishing
CarbonNeutral-certified “carbon the consumer, the process offers
zero” Tencel-branded lyocell and Finnish fiber innovation company a higher washing, perspiration
modal fibers, produced using Spinnova entered into a long-term and sublimation fastness than
renewable energy, which it said collaboration with global chemical traditional polyester fiber.
will contribute to lower carbon company Kemira to develop an
(The article was made based on a report
emissions and energy consumption eco-friendly inherent fiber dyeing
published in Sourcing Journal)
across the supply chain and method.
Indian cotton yarn price going up till March 21

Shariful Islam Arvi
The price per kg of Indian woven cotton yarn rose Prices of 30s yarn per kg in India (In $)
from $2.65 in August last year to $3.65 in January 4.0
this year which increased by 37.7 percent. The 3.55
3.5 3.31
3.21
price per kg of combed cotton yarn of 30s count
2.81 2.88
3.0
was $2.81, $2.88, $3.21, $3.31 & $3.55 in September,
October, November, and December last year. Its price 2.5
is now $3.55 per kg with an increase of 8.33 percent 2.0
over December.
1.5
The price of Indian cotton fiber has not increased 1.0
significantly but the price of cotton yarn is higher
0.5
than domestic and export prices. This problem is
0.0
exacerbated by uncertain demand in supply chains. Sep’20 Oct’20 Nov’20 Dec’20 Jan’21
International buyers resumed their orders in the
second half of 2020. Already inventories have dried- lockdown-induced factory closure resulting in limited
up as supplies have failed to match demand and production. Later when demand increased, traders
spinning mills resumed operations late across India. and agents started selling more to those who were
The demand for Indian yarn in Bangladesh is raising willing to pay higher prices and, therefore, prices
buyers again with the sending of interrogation. A have risen significantly in the last six months.
large number of orders are coming from Bangladesh According to experts, the price may rise further by
and Vietnam. Bangladesh is already planning to buy March 21. This could lead to further difficulties in the
from the stock market as the price of cotton has Indian textile and garment supply chain. Already
skyrocketed. weaving price increased from 12-15 paisa/pick to 20-
Manpower was limited at the time of the 24 paisa/pick in India.

To p S t o r y
Expediting regional
cooperation in trade and
transport connectivity
Sabbir Rahman Khan
Bangladesh is uniquely positioned

to take advantage of its location
in the Eastern sub-region of
South Asia. It is a center point of
different initiatives that seek to
connect Bangladesh, Bhutan, India
and Nepal (BBIN) with the ASEAN
and other East Asian countries.
With deeper trade, investment
and connectivity linkages within
the sub-region, Bangladesh can
benefit from new markets, new
import sources of high-quality and
better-priced products, increasing
opportunities for transport and
logistics services. Researches
emphasized that the future Figure: Researches emphasized that the future line of connectivity must be on
developing maritime infrastructure critical to promoting both intra and inter-regional
line of connectivity must be on connectivity and trade.
developing maritime infrastructure
critical to promoting both intra • The Agreement on South Asian The Protocol on Inland Water
and inter-regional connectivity and Free Trade Area (SAFTA) Transit and Trade between
trade, as much for India as for the Bangladesh and India initiated
• SAARC Framework Agreement
other South Asian nations. the Kolkata-Assam water route
on Trade in Services (SAFAS)
via Bangladesh for transportation
The connectivity by sea through • Standing Committee of goods and providing
the Bay of Bengal and the Indian for Economic and Trade infrastructural facilities.
Ocean is crucial in this respect. Cooperation (COMCEC)
The Bay of Bengal Initiative for Notably, Bangladesh and Nepal
Multi-Sectoral Technical and • Trade Preferential System have extended the Protocol on
Economic Cooperation (BIMSTEC) Among the OIC Members Inland Water Transit and Trade
and the India-Myanmar-Thailand (TPS-OIC) which is not only enhancing
Trilateral Highway, to build the • Preferential Trade Agreement trade but also facilitating
missing links of the Trans-Asian (PTA) among D-8 Countries (D-8) greater investments in transport
Railway and the Asian Highway infrastructure through public-
Bangladesh is trying to engage in
networks will play an important private partnerships. Under this
various sub-regional connectivity
role in the future. agreement, Bangladesh will be
projects through road, rail and
allowed the use of channels
To enhance trade, Bangladesh has sea routes with India. These
for trade with India, Nepal and
associated with some Regional connectivity projects can create
Bhutan.
Trade Agreements as follows : more trade opportunities for
Bangladesh with the North- Moreover, Bangladesh, Bhutan,
• Asia Pacific Trade Agreement
Eastern states of India. Also, India Nepal and India (BBIN), a group of
(APTA)
is interested in road and railway sub-regional countries in Eastern
• BIMSTEC Trade Negotiating transit through Bangladesh as it South Asia, signed a landmark
Committee (TNC) meeting would lower the cost and time to Motor Vehicles Agreement (MVA)
• SAARC Preferential Trading send goods to its north-east. in 2015 for the regulation of
Arrangement (SAPTA) passenger, personnel and cargo

To p S t o r y
Regional export at a glance: (Bloc/Group/Community – wise) (In million US $) Further regional connectivity
between Bangladesh and its
Bloc/Group/Community 2018-2019 2017-2018 Changes
(1-3) neighbors is expected in the
Amount % of total Amount % of total
US Dollar export US Dollar export
implementation of the planned
concept of ‘Blue Economy’ now
E.U. 17346 59.2 15975 59.7 1371
that Bangladesh receives new
NAFTA 5621 19.2 4875 18.2 746
marine territories as a result of
Other Asian Countries 1859 6.3 1754 6.6 105
the maritime verdict wins through
OIC 1400 4.8 1541 5.8 -141 arbitration against India and
ACU 1102 3.8 880 3.3 222 Myanmar.
SAARC 1064 3.6 832 3.1 232 Ways to reap the benefit
Other European 956 3.3 1041 3.9 -85 of regional connectivity for
Countries
Bangladesh
Developing Eight 704 2.4 797 3.0 -93
It is needless to reiterate how
OPEC 578 2.0 596 2.2 -18
Bangladesh holds immense
ASEAN 522 1.8 463 1.7 59
potentials to be a connectivity
Other Countries 1230 4.2 1047 3.9 183 hub between South and South-
Total Export 29311 26752 2559 east Asia, between South and
Receipts(excluding EPZ)
Central Asia, and between South
and West Asia. However, there
Targets set in the 7th Five Year Plan to aid Bangladesh to be a connectivity hub
Source: 7th Five Year Plan, Planning Commission, GoB will always be challenges to hold
Sectors Targets to achieve
back Bangladesh’s spree towards
becoming a one-of-a-kind regional
Roads and Highways • Timely completion of important road links related to
regional and multi-regional connectivity; hub. Therefore, measures should
• Construction of Padma Multipurpose Bridge that will be in place in terms of fall-back
connect the southwest part of the country to northern situations.
and eastern regions;
• Conversion of nationally important highways into
If we go by the avenues prescribed
four-lanes; in the 7th Five Year Plan, the
• Connecting important economic activity hubs, such as following action plans are
Payra Port and Economic Zones to national highways. imperative:
Railways • Continuation of reforming and modernizing railways;
• Completing all the identified
• Strengthening South Asia Regional and TAR (Trans-
Asian Railways) connectivity through constructing a
high-priority projects, including
new rail track in the Bangladesh side of TAR. completion of the Padma
Waterways • Construction of landing stations and river ports; bridge; conversion of important
• Construction of a new container terminal. highways into four lanes;
connecting important ports and
Airways • Construction of a new airport named Khan Jahan Ali
Airport. economic zones to highways;
Port and Terminal • Construction of the third seaport at Payra in Patuakhali; completion of constructing the
• Construction of a seaport and Liquefied Natural Gas Payra seaport, the Moheshkhali
(LNG) terminal at Moheshkhali; LNG terminal and the Khan
• Construction of the third terminal at Hazrat Shah Jalal Jahan Ali airport; strengthening
International Airport. Biman’s fleet capacity and
management quality.
vehicular traffic among the four through India on 24 April 2018 • Completing critical transport
South Asian neighbors. The MVA, under MVA. The Dhaka-Kolkata- links in road, rail and river ways
based on the EU model, has paved Agartala bus service and Dhaka- that are related to promoting
the way for seamless movement Shillong-Guwahati bus service regional and multi-regional
of goods and people across also started in 2015 under this connectivity.
the border for the benefit and agreement. • Addressing security challenges
integration of the region and its and identifying relevant
Both Bangladesh and India agreed
economic development. solutions to ensure safe
to consider introducing a new bus
The MVA aims to connect the service linking Khulna-Kolkata transportation.
landlocked Bhutan, Bangladesh, and Jessore-Kolkata. Bangladesh • Setting a logical pricing policy
Nepal and North-East Indian and India are taking initiatives to for using transit/transshipment
territories with the Chittagong revive the traditional rail routes to through Bangladesh’s territory.
and Kolkata port. Bangladesh and enhance the travel of passengers
• Developing a balanced 3R (rail,
Nepal had launched a bus service and transportation of goods.

Ya r n U p d a t e To p S t o r y
road, river) based multimodal erstwhile economies rated as supporting Bangladesh’s

transportation system. potential but subsequently interests in regional connectivity
becoming off-course ; or in exploiting the potentials of
• Participating actively in all
the blue economy.
regional and sub-regional • We need to ask ourselves about
connectivity forums. our strategic strengths and
Apart from the 7th Five Year Plan,
weaknesses and assess trends Author
and situations in our immediate
the government needs to expedite
neighborhood and on the
other issues as well, such as:
regional and global scene. Such
• Learning from best practices exercise is important for setting
of multilateral and regional strategic priorities targeting the
cooperation mechanism; maximization of our national
• It is useful to maintain an interests, especially economic
awareness of possible risks and developmental interests.
which could derail our desired • We also need to hold public Sabbir Rahman Khan
growth trajectory and afflict us debates and carry out Research Associate, Bangladesh
with the miss-the-bus syndrome substantial research for Foreign Trade Institute (BFTI)
which has characterized some
Pakistan withdrawing 5%
customs duty on yarn import
Redwanul Islam
Pakistan’s govt. has guaranteed to withdraw 5%

custom duty on yarn import and in this connection
notification will be issued immediately after the approval
of the Economic Coordination Committee (ECC).
President of Faisalabad Chamber of Commerce
& Industry (FCCI) Engineer Hafiz Ihtasham Javed
representing the textile sector expressed his views about
‘Inspector less regime’ for the industrial sector and said
that drastic cut in cotton production has not only created
a shortage of yarn but also enhanced its rates.
Prime Minister Imran Khan said that despite the
Covid-19, the govt. took brave and practical actions
Figure: Pakistan’s govt. has guaranteed to withdraw 5% custom
which aided the textile sector to improve its duty on yarn import.
performance and enhance exports for the last 3
Prime Minister directed Muhammad Hammad Azhar,
consecutive months.
Federal Minister for Industries & Production to take
Imran Khan said that the textile group recorded up this issue and resolve it on top priority basis.
a 7.79% increase during July-December and to
During this meeting Engineer Hafiz Ihtasham Javed
maintain this tempo Government must ensure the
thanked the Prime Minister for focusing on the
availability of yarn at reasonable rates.
industrial sector and assured that exporters will
Imran Khan added that earlier the government make concerted efforts to further enhance exports
had withdrawn 5% import duty which saved after the withdrawal of custom duty.
exporters from immediate financial losses, however,
The credit goes to FCCI for the withdrawal of 5%
now withdrawal of custom duty is imperative to
import duty and now it was trying its optimum best
ensure availability of cotton and polyester yarn
to withdraw 5% custom duty, he added.
at competitive rates so that our exporters could
compete with their regional competitors. Concluding with FCCI will continue its efforts to
resolve the emerging challenges faced by the textile
And availability of yarn will also play an instrumental
sector. And the Government should also withdraw
role in running the textile sector with full capacity and
custom duty on polyester yarn along with cotton
generating maximum jobs for the unemployed youth.
yarn to save the textile sector from total collapse.

In Focus
Textile industry is turning

toward eco-friendly solutions
to become more sustainable
Textile Today Analysis
Figure: Textile printing industry has been coming out of traditional dyes, and shifting toward more sustainable and eco-friendly options.
Fashion retail is moving fast to globally, according to economic Stepping up to sustainable

adopt new dynamics and brands research firm Euler Hermes and solutions
to shed their name tagged with FashionUnited.
For example, the textile printing
pollutants of the environment.
Not to mention, the manufacturing industry has been coming out
Down the line, in the supply
industry is under immense of traditional dyes, which need
chain, the apparel manufacturers
pressure. Price competition a huge amount of water and
are facing a growing call to adopt
is aggressive, and profits are generates massive waste is shifting
sustainable means and technologies
lessening, thanks to unstable raw toward more sustainable and eco-
to come out of their traditional
material costs and rising wages. friendly options.
outlook and lessen pollution.
Also, huge investment in wastewater
Back in 2017, when the Chinese
Though stakeholders have been treatment for liquid discharge is
govt. came down hard on its
voicing their concerns about needed to become sustainable.
textile sector for pollution then a
whether enough has been done
Regardless of public commitments lot of the traditional dyeing and
or not. The obstacles facing those
by apparel brands to become more printing with a huge amount of
working to encourage a more
sustainable, suppliers say their water has changed. And one of the
sustainable textile technology are
buyers will not buy anything that significant transformations is the
quite high. The industry’s utter
could increase the cost of a finished shifting of pigments rather than
scale makes it tough to have an
garment by as little as a penny. dyes uses very little water, which
impact: Textiles are a $3 trillion
Despite all these, the textile industry is produces much less waste than
annual business that employs
turning toward eco-friendly solutions traditional methods.
approximately 60 million workers
to become more sustainable.

In Focus
Digital printing is one instance textile industry’s eco-certification pollutant. Finished textiles colored
of an increasing list of new, programs. with the dye comprise a non-
more sustainable fabric-coloring detectable amount of aniline.
“With advances in measurement
technologies from both major
instruments, we’re seeing more Globally, fashion brands’ awareness
suppliers and smaller chemical and
evidence of contaminants and of aniline pollution is rising,
biotech start-ups. The companies
degradation products than ever and the chemical has started to
realize business opportunities in
before,” observes John Frazier, appear on lists that brands send to
tackling dyeing’s wasteful water
Technical Director at Hohenstein apparel manufacturers restricting
and energy practices and their
Institute America, a textile the chemicals they can use.
dependence on toxic chemicals.
research organization.
Since the industrial revolution, the
Elsewhere in the industry-leading
Frazier says, at the same time, the textile industry has come a long
chemical suppliers are also
industry needs to develop “better way in chemical solution making in
stepping up to provide more
chemistry and guarantee there is factories. Experts say, overnight it
sustainable chemical solutions in
less water going out the back.” is not possible to transform into a
the textile industry. They brought
sustainable scenario.
a lot of solutions that colors need Frazier added he is seeing “a lot
one-quarter to one-third less water of innovation happening. Which is But some chemical solution
and one-third less energy. very exciting.” providers are coming up with
natural dye solutions. Though it
Three reactive groups are
Shifting to waterless/ has been widely acknowledged
attached to the dye formula’s
less water solutions in that there is not enough natural
chromophore—or color-providing
digital printing raw material to cover the whole
molecule—compared with the one
industry.
or two reactive groups’ common
for cotton dyes. Appreciations to Chemical suppliers Some start-ups have the ambition
these extra reactive groups, the providing more sustainable to return to those early days. Like
dye step lasts about four hours, chemical solutions that turning to biology—in particular,
compared with seven hours for needs one-quarter to one- engineered microbes—to reduce
conventional dyes. One more way third less water & one-third the use of chemicals in textile
to increase the bond between less energy dyes.
dyes and cotton fibers is a process Though not all the colors that
called cationization. Startups turning to engineered microbes can make
In North Carolina, textile industry biologically engineered fulfill textile industry requirements
expert Tony Leonard is taking microbes to reduce use of for lightfastness and temperature
that approach. Leonard is the chemicals in textile dyes stability.
inventor and technical director Nonetheless, microbes that
behind ColorZen, a start-up that has Figure: Major sustainable solutions in produce stable colors can be
the industry.
developed a cotton pretreatment step. accepted by dye houses with
“With conventional cotton dyeing, a slight change to their normal
salt is used to negate the charge In making blue jeans blue, the processes. First, the microbes go
on the surface of the cotton,” industry used synthetic indigo. An into a solution like a regular dye
Leonard explains. example of a dye that can release and get embedded in the textile
unreacted chemicals downstream fiber. Then they are given nutrients
Leonard stressed on new
of denim manufacturing. that cause them to grow. When
technologies that the pretreatment
heat is applied, the organisms’
makes the dyeing process faster Some of the Chinese denim
membranes burst. That causes the
while using 90% less water, 75% manufacturers produce most of
color to chemically attach to the
less energy, and 90% fewer the world’s indigo using aniline as
fiber with help from metal ions and
auxiliary chemicals. It also cuts out a key raw material. Indigo is unlike
salts in the microbes’ cytoplasm.
almost half the dye compared with most dyes in that in its unreduced
processes that call for salts in the form it is not soluble. So Conclusion
dye bath. companies upgrade it into easier- The technology and know-how
to-use, pre-reduced solutions that are ready and waiting allow to
It needs to be kept in mind that
are more water-soluble. dramatically reduce the amount of
even the best pretreatment
process cannot exclude the health Later chemical solution providers water used in textile processing.
effects of the textile dyes and the developed technologies for pre- So, the whole textile and garment
chemicals used to make garments. reducing indigo to stop aniline industry, the complete value chain,
That is the focus of many of the from carrying through as a should be using it to ensure a
sustainable future.

Export Updates
Demands shock
sends Bangladesh
apparel exports to US
down 16% in 2020
Arif-Uz-Zaman
Bangladesh's apparel exports,

the driver of economic growth, to
the United States of America, the
single largest export destination
for exporters, have recorded a 16%
decline to $5.07 billion in the just-
concluded year 2020.
The steep decline was due to the
demand side shocks caused by the
ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, which
hit people's income as well as hit
the supply chain badly.
According to Export Promotion
Bureau (EPB) data, shipments of
apparel goods to the US market
declined by 16% to $5.07 billion in
the year 2020, which was $6.02
billion in 2019. Figure 1: In growing in the US market, Bangladesh has to come out from the traditional
exporting items and FDI in areas of manufacturing value-added goods.
Exports earnings from woven
products have witnessed a sharp
Since the income of the US
fall by 22.13% to $4.49 billion, Apparel exports
citizens shrank and they cut
which was $4.49 billion in the declined by
16%
expenses, the demands of clothing
previous year.
products, as well as consumer
However, knitwear products goods, fell. This hit Bangladesh's
to $5.07 bn
posted a positive growth by 2.73% exports to the US markets, Salam
to $1.56 billion, which was $1.52 explained.
billion in 2019. Woven exports fall by
22.13%
"In the US market consumption
"The United States of America had dropped by 16% in November,
has witnessed the worst impacts while prices of products exported
to $4.49 bn
of coronavirus and recorded the to the country declined by over 5%."
highest death and infection cases.
On top of that, the demands of Knitwear exports grew
The unemployment rate in the US is
2.73%
woven products as less as people
higher as businesses such as shops,
worked from home and they dressed
bars, travel and others had to close by
casually, which is knitwear products. to $1.56 bn
because of coronavirus," Abdus
Salam Murshedy, managing director "Bangladesh's exports to the US
Figure 2: Bangladesh apparel exports to
of Envoy Textile told Textile Today. market are driven by the woven US in 2020.

Export Updates
products, which declined sharply. Besides, the production of woven

But knitwear products performed products was hampered due to
well," said Faruque Hassan, supply chain disruption during the
managing director of Giant Group, first phase of covid. Bangladesh needs
told Textile Today. to import fabrics for woven products
mostly from China, he added. Manufacturing value-
Knitwear products and sweater
added apparel
products demand was higher as However, experts, as well as the
people dressed in casual clothes manufacturers, also blamed longer Developing strong backward
because of staying at home and lead time and sharp negative linkage for woven to reduce
working from home, said Hassan. growth in woven products for the import dependency &
downtrend in the US markets. increase value addition
Since they did not join the office
regularly and did not come out "Amid the Covid-19 pandemic,
from home, demands of formal lead time was very crucial for Cutting lead-time
dress like shirts and pants were the importers and brands as the
slower. As a result, our exports supply chain was disrupted due Figure 3: Ways to grow in the US market.
declined, said Hassan, also a to the pandemic. They preferred
products is risky for sustaining the
former senior vice president of Vietnam due to their shorter lead
growth of exports. It is now clearer.
BGMEA. time," Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, a director
So, the manufacturers should
of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers
“
focus on product diversification
and Exporter Association (BKMEA)
as well as market diversification,"
told Textile Today.
Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD)
Vietnam has a deep seaport and Research Director Khondaker
Higher dependency they can easily import fabrics and Golam Moazzem said.
other raw materials from China
on single products while shipping goods to the US
In growing in the US market,
is risky for market within a shorter lead time.

Bangladesh has to come out from
the traditional exporting items and
sustaining the They had the advantage of shorter
attract foreign direct investment
lead time and took advantage of it,
growth of exports. said Ehsan, the owner of Fatullah
(FDI) in the areas where there are
It is now clearer. So, Apparels.

opportunities for manufacturing
value-added goods, said the
the manufacturers According to the US Department economist.
should focus of Commerce's Office of Textiles
On top of that, we should develop
and Apparel (Otexa) data, during
on product the January-October period of
a strong backward linkage for the
diversification as 2020, Vietnam exports to the US
woven sector to reduce import
dependency and to increase value
well as market market declined by 8.14% to $10.71
addition, he added.
billion, while Bangladesh saw an
diversification 11.66% fall to $4.50 billion in the Currently, Bangladesh can meet
same period. about 90% demands of knitwear
Golam Moazzem fabrics, while it is about 45% for
"Higher dependency on single
Director, CPD the woven sector.
BD RMG export declined 3.44% Y-O-Y to $18.40 bn

Sayed Abdullah
According to data from the 3.84%. The export of woven items According to data from the
Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) dropped 10.85% to $8.41 billion. BGMEA, the apparel export endures
between July and January, the to demonstrate a dismal trend,
Woven items export has been
first seven months of the 2020- showing the worrying state in the
falling since June last year as many
2021FY, the shipment of RMG, which global trade, mainly about RMG.
people have limited themselves to
usually contributes more than 80%
homes and countless worked from Besides, the newest EPB export
to Bangladesh’s national export,
home because of the pandemic. data shows that garment export in
declined 3.44% y-o-y to $18.40 billion.
January dropped 7.01% year-over-
An extended stay at homes
Of the earnings from the RMG year and woven export dropped
has surged up the demand for
export, $9.98 billion came from 13.89%.
knitwear items.
the knitwear export, which was up

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BTMA Initiatives
BTMA's initiatives in
pandemic to ensure a
sustainable future
Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA
Figure: Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA
Mohammad Ali Khokon, Director at Maksons Knit & Rotor to resolve the problems of the
President, Bangladesh Textile Mills Spinning Ltd. and Managing member mills. Undoubtedly
Association (BTMA) is a versatile Director at Maksons Properties initiatives taken by the Association
leader with unparallel experience & Development Ltd. (both are have benefited the members and
of more than 3 decades with the subsidiaries of Maksons Group) still for 2021 BTMA is in progress
sector and in the meantime, he and Managing Director & Director to come up with more endeavors
leads many organizations. at Maksons Spinning Mills Ltd. to deal with the Covid-19 affected
the critical business situation.
Khokon is a self-made Mohammad Ali Khokon highlighted
Some of the initiatives during this
entrepreneur who engaged with the initiatives that BTMA taken
pandemic and for 2021 by BTMA
the textile and apparel trade or going to take considering the
are mentioned below:
from 1987. He has been the head ongoing critical business situation.
of five different companies and And how will BTMA members be • Due to Covid-19, the export-
occupies the position of Managing benefited from those initiatives. oriented spinning, fabrics-
Director & Director at Metro weaving member mills of
BTMA is continuously working
Spinning Ltd., Managing Director BTMA were facing problems
during the Covid-19 period and
at Maksons Group, Managing regarding payment delay of
has taken different initiatives

BTMA Initiatives
the issued Back to Back L/C extended earlier. the cash assistance on actual
and at sight Back to Back L/C FOB value can help the textile
• National Board of Revenue
against the price of the exported business community. As the rate
and Bond Comissionarate are
yarn and fabric. About 190 of cash assistance is minimum
two important organizations
million USD was pending on for high value-added products
for BTMA Member Mills and
bank acceptance and at sight than low value-added products.
frequent interactions happen
payment. BTMA worked on it To encourage high value-added
with these two institutions.
and appealed to Bangladesh products cash assistance policy
Few cumbersome policies
Bank to come up with a solution. needs to be modified.
were creating obstacles to
Finally, BB issued a circular and
the business. BTMA organized • In 1998 for raw yarn to fabric
that helped to decrease the
meetings to discuss important and from finished fabric to
pending amount. The industry
policy reforms which can result readymade garments the
cycle remains active based on
in positive economic growth. wastage was determined 7% and
payments. Few commercial
Cost of Doing Business and 9% which is 16% in total. With
banks are still not giving priority
Ease of Doing Business were the advancement of technology
to this matter. BTMA is trying to
the priorities of the meetings. and changing of fashion designs
have a meeting with BB in this
the demand of High value-added
regard and getting a positive
garments increased. At present,
result.
from raw yarn to fabric and
• BTMA approached Ministries from finished fabric to apparel
and Bangladesh Bank to relax items the amount of wastage is
down the Internal Credit Risk 35%-40%. The VAT and Tax is
Rating System (ICRRS) condition imposed on yarn considering the
illustrated in BRPD circular 8 to previous wastage ratio which
avail the 30,000 crores working
BTMA requested is resulting in a financial loss to
capital loan facility easily. Ministry of Commerce the Member mills. A meeting
Later, Bangladesh Bank issued to raise tariff value of was organized with the Ministry
another circular correcting the of Commerce and they have
imported fabric
ICRRS condition which is much assured to look into this matter
appreciated. seriously.
• BTMA has requested the • On behalf of BTMA Member
Minister and Secretary of the mills, BTMA requested the
Ministry of Shipping requesting Ministry of Commerce (MoC) to
that shipping agents and raise of tariff value of imported
private inland container depot fabric and also appealed to
demurrage charges should not set a new unit of fabric in meter
be levied for the unloading Appealed to set a new instead of kilogram. The local
time (except FEE-Time) of the unit of fabric in meter fabric production costs are
imported goods. And also to higher than the imported ones
instead of kg
waive the full store rent by CTG when compared to. MoC has
Tariff Port to transfer the private suggested BTMA contact with
inland container to Depo and Bangladesh Tariff Commission
But DEDO which plays a major
the delivery of goods container. (BTC) and according to their
role in bond operations showed
Port has accepted the request suggestions the changes will
noncooperation behavior
considering the damage. happen. BTC analyzed the whole
to BTMA. If like the present
matter and prepared a report
• Regarding the stimulus time, effective authority is not
and submitted it to MoC for
packages, which could not allocated in the future, the
further proceedings.
be availed by the majority situation will not improve and
of the textile mills because many works will be on hold. BTMA hopes that the next Budget
of the stringent regulations. will consider the suggestions of
• Regarding Alternative Cash
BTMA has initiated different BTMA and will relax the duty,
Assistance, BTMA requested
requests to Bangladesh Bank taxation, VAT accordingly. If
Government to change the
for easing the provisions of the next budget considers the
procedure for the textile industry
the circulars. In response to recommendations of BTMA then
and this should be given on FOB
that, BB has amended few the position of the textile industry
value instead of existing. We
circulars. According to the will be stronger.
think that no increase but to give
need of industries, the time was

Cover Plus
Facilitating market access

for Cottage, Micro, Small
and Medium Enterprises
(CMSMEs) of Bangladesh
Enamul Hafiz Latifee and Mohammad Musleh Uddin
Cottage, Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises

(CMSMEs) are considered to be catalyzers of any
economy. In the development context, CMSMEs play
a crucial role in both developed and developing
countries impacting positive changes in the
community level economy and in boosting the
national economic scenario.
Terming the contribution of CMSMEs to be the
lifeline of Bangladesh’s economy, the Honorable
Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi recently stated on
11 January 2021 that the sector is contributing about
26 percent to the country’s Gross Domestic Product
(GDP) annually on average since long.
As Bangladesh had been able to maintain 5.24
percent economic growth rate in FY 2019-20,
where, the apparel sector earned US$ 38.2 billion
contributing 11.58 percent to GDP amid the Covid-19 Figure 1: CMSMEs are the main contributors of any economy.
havoc, in that economic perilous state, the CMSME
sector was still able to have more than twice impact partnerships and networking arrangements creating
than to the dominating apparel sector on country’s an environment of business functions ranging from
GDP believed to be driven by the ever-expanding research, innovation, and product development to
local consumption market till to the date. customer outreach.
Furthermore, the share of industrial accomplishments Although CMSMEs the main contributors of the
in the economy increased gradually with the economy, they mostly lag to reach the destined
developments of manufacturing elements and market. Many factors contribute to the lower rate
capacity following the first three industrial of participation of CMSMEs in expanding their
revolutions that are poised to change in the coming businesses vertically and horizontally throughout the
days as the fourth industrial revolution is already country as well as the international market.
upon us now. The constraints are mainly-- lack of symmetric
Flexibility over the large enterprises leads CMSMEs information, inadequate access to intermediary
to take the challenges of reaching competitive business services, unavailability of national guidelines
supplying of demanded products within the shortest to explore new markets, mere presence and
time frame. utilization of digital techniques to exploit new market
opportunities. Furthermore, CMSMEs are affected
Thus, their presence strengthens the national income,
by trade barriers like standards and technical
employment, productivity and entrepreneurial
regulations, frequently changing and unstable policy-
advancement. The market access of the CMSMEs
law formulations, logistics processes and services,
refers to national and global presence through
and customs and other administrative procedures
trade, international investment, strategic alliances,
due to proper knowledge.

Cover Plus
Lack of proper information
?
The government policies regarding income tax,
corporate tax, value-added tax, import duties,
export provisions, business & product licensing and
certification, services provided by the commercial
and scheduled banks, interest rates and financing
Lack of Inadequate access
procedures announced by the central bank change balanced to intermediary
from time to time. information business services
This information is not regularly and easily

communicated with the CMSMEs, and that is why,
CMSMEs fall into vulnerabilities that massively hinder
their business continuity, even in the worst case,
CMSMEs are forced to close down their businesses Unavailability of Inadequate presence
as to be unable to cope with the new Tax-VAT-Duty- national guidelines and utilization of digital
to explore new techniques to exploit new
Interest Rate regime.
markets market opportunities
Besides, proper information is not available
regarding training programs offered by government
Figure 2: bottleneck of CMSMEs in Bangladesh.
organizations. For this reason, most of the
CMSME entrepreneurs take training from privately entrepreneurs and locally operated CMSMEs going
owned subpar training providers as National global by exploring export market opportunities,
Skills Development Authority (NSDA) does not and knowing tariff rates, non-tariff measures such
disseminate information to the CMSMEs about as required certificates and standards to be fulfilled
upper-standard privately owned internationally for entering any particular with any specific product.
affiliated and recognized training institutes like DCCI The Small & Cottage Industries Training Institute
Business Institute (DBI). (SCITI) also conducts a training program on ‘Export
Again, they are not much aware of the new product Marketing’ often only in Dhaka, but not nationally.
line or trend of the world and don’t know what Access to Finance
standard need to follow to access the market or
In Bangladesh, most of the CMSMEs experience great
communicate with the potential buyers.
hurdles in raising their funds for working capital or to
Inadequate access to business intermediary and expand their businesses. The main problem they face
development services in accessing finances from the financial and Non-
Business intermediary and development services, Financial Banking Institutions (NBFI’s) due to lack of
such as advisory and consultancy firms on full- proper documentation, complex loan disbursement
service business brokerage and mergers & procedure, no banking account, bankable project
acquisitions, trade license application and renewal, submission, poor relations with banks, collateral
name clearance and registration process in the problem, etc.
Registrar of Joint Stock Companies and Firms, As a result, many of the cottage and micro
factory-labor and environmental compliances, enterprises in our country do not have a bank
application and renewal process in Office of the account but doing business through cash payment
Chief Controller of Imports and Exports, etc. are or in good faith. In a study of World Bank with Policy
mainly in Dhaka City. Research Institute (PRI), in South Asian countries,
Because of this, CMSMEs located in other parts of Bangladesh has an estimated financing gap of about
the country are going through time-consuming and Taka 237 billion (US$ 2.8 billion).
cost-increasing problems in time of expanding their Again, in this pandemic, the situation goes more
businesses or trying to go the upper level of the aggravate for the CMSMEs. Although govt. has
ladder. As a result, it creates a great hindrance in the announced a 20,000 crore Taka stimulus package to
development of CMSMEs and their market accession. support the CMSMEs while they are still struggling to
Unavailability of a national program to guide get loans from the banks due to complex procedures
CMSMEs for accessing and exploring the export and the reluctant nature of the banks found from a
market DCCI survey. Thus, it is very important to find out an
alternative financing mechanism, other than banking
There are some privately arranged courses which
channel, to support the vulnerable CMSMEs.
are mainly offered in Dhaka city that gives some
learning’s to the CMSMEs about export market Recommendations:
access, but, there are no nationally arranged training I. An alternative financing platform like Trade
programs by the government to educate new Discounting Platform can be created to circulate

Cover Plus
untapped national and international market.

In Bangladesh, most of the CMSMEs VI. The platform of “Bangladesh Trade Portal” needs
experience great hurdles in raising their to be popularized to the CMSMEs as well as to
the businesses for better access to information
funds for working capital or to expand for trade expansion around the globe.
their businesses. The main problem VII. An easier version of TAX, VAT guideline needs to
they face in accessing finances from be developed and proper training programs need
the financial and Non-Financial Banking to be conducted throughout the country since
most of the CMSME entrepreneurs are not much
Institutions (NBFI’s) due to lack of educated in our country.
proper documentation, complex loan VIII. The growth of the CMSMEs can be extrapolated
disbursement procedure, no banking by a more internationalized infrastructure
account, bankable project submission, development for the business ecosystem. This
applies to the infrastructure for financial markets,
poor relations with banks, collateral advisory services, information access, access
problem, etc. to finance, intellectual property rights markets
and regulation, etc. are need to be in line with
international standards. To make this happen,
cash flow for the CMSMEs. The Platform will it is required to create an active collaboration
be an online platform, transaction will be between governments, international agencies,
transparent, adequate funding will be available and the private sector to reap the significant
for the CMSME entrepreneurs. The entrepreneurs potential benefits from it.
who do not have any formal bank account yet,
they need to be brought under the shade of
banking financial services. For this, it is needed Authors
to introduce a specific policy for unbanked and
underprivileged Cottage and Micro-enterprises
to make them bankable through 10 Taka account
opening scheme.
II. In spite of contributing as a raw material sourcing
point for intermediary and tertiary domestic
market and export-oriented manufacturers,
traders are not getting the due attention of the
financier and unable to obtain adequate funds.
Thus, the credit limit for the Trading Businesses Enamul Hafiz Latifee is the Deputy Secretary,
under current stimulus package for CMSMEs, Trade Facilitation and SME Development,
regulated by Bangladesh Bank, needs to be Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry
increased up to 30%. (DCCI). He can be reached at
ehlatifee@gmail.com, and also be viewed at
III. It is required to create a cluster-based scheme
www.ehlatifee.com.
to support new and existing entrepreneurs for
expanding their businesses. At least Taka 8,000
crore circular fund is needed to support the
scheme. The scheme shall disburse credits to the
CMSMEs at zero interest for the first 2 years and
from the 3rd year, they can be charged with an
interest rate at 5%. And the time-period needs
to be at least 10 Years for the full repayment of
credit plus interest. It will help to develop clusters
and entrepreneurs in different sectors.
IV. A decentralized govt. office system needs to be Mohammad Musleh Uddin is the Deputy
initiated to provide the business intermediary Secretary, Research & Development and SME
and development services to the CMSMEs at the Development, DCCI. He can be reached at
district level too. adnan.cu06@gmail.com.
V. Nationally, more cluster-based training programs Views expressed here are not from the
are needed throughout the country to create an organization that the authors represent.
industry-based strong workforce and explore the

Textile Today Question of the Month Q&A
Sustainable materials (raw, accessories, fabrics, dyes & chemicals, etc.) sourcing is always a challenge. It has
a direct effect on lead-time. The geographical position of Bangladesh is an issue for the readymade garments
(RMG) industry, also, the material sourcing problem makes it bitter. Corona pandemic created a demand for
shorter lead-time--a reason to turn down Bangladesh’s apparel export.
Question: How can material sourcing be sustainable? Should the investors invest
“ “
here? How can the govt. facilitate this sector to grow further?
We need local or foreign investment in this The fashion industry, a multibillion-dollar global enterprise devoted to the
backward linkage sector of raw material to ease business of making and selling clothes. Frequent changes in fashion choices
the sourcing of end-product manufacturers. and trends have increased the buyer demand, causing a requirement of shorter
Lead time and to keep up with the market.
But the reality is Bangladesh doesn’t produce
any primary raw materials which are needed for Fast fashion apparel is time-sensitive and follows a very tight timeline and
manufacturing secondary raw material sourcing. meeting the deadline is important than ever. During the COVID-19 period, this
I would like to emphasize below two points- issue has become prevailing. It is of high importance to maintain a steady
streamline of backward integration of all raw materials linked with the apparel
1. Uninterrupted primary raw material flow is a
industry.
must for manufacturing secondary raw materials
(yarn, fabric, sewing thread, dyes & chemicals, But due to source vulnerability, it has become a pressing need to enhance or
accessories, etc.) and we have experienced build up local capacity, supported by local entrepreneurs, investors and as well
interruptions of primary raw material supply chain as support from the government.
in this pandemic/challenging situation which
Mostly cotton and other fibers are import base. We are adding value from
passed us the thoughts to have better options’/
yarn manufacturing to finished products. But we do not have enough capacity
control over primary raw material sourcing.
in terms of backward linkage industries, like dyes and specialty chemical
Producers need policy/banking support and industries. These industries require support from the government in the tax
overseas mission Involvement to have better and duty benefits for local production units.
negotiations. Advance Payment Module to secure
Other important issues are technical capacity buildup and investment required
the raw materials in an advantageous situation.
by enterprisers as these solutions can certainly provide more competitiveness
If we go through the major raw materials as far as the Fast fashion industry is concerned. In Bangladesh, the Auxiliary
production countries, they have better chemicals manufacturers are now importing raw materials and started re-
relationship/control with multi-country suppliers/ formulating according to customer demand and functional requirements.
govt. and trade body.
This initiative is helping the industries to run with minimum raw materials
2. Another acute problem we have experienced inventory, reduces the challenge of MOQ, and more importantly, ensures all
during the pandemic is supply chain interruptions products needed for the wet process are readily available. Which will help the
of dyes and chemicals, accessories, etc. reduction of costs by getting raw materials Just in Time.
If the Government Provides Policy Supports i.e., With the global pandemic COVID-19, the sourcing became more challenging
bonded warehouse, Banking supports, then the and expensive with the development of weekly based demand at the
secondary raw material flow will be smoother. customer’s end. As of present, scarcity of shipping space has risen, and the
cost has been increased four times compared to the previous year.
The supply chain is the heart of the business. The
less interrupted supply chain is one of the major Again, in this context, as users, we are importing 40% volume of inert materials
areas to increase Efficiencies. (Water to be specific) which adds import space cost and additional inventory
cost. These issues can be eventually mitigated if and only if through local
I think, here the government and associations
capacity build-up; which will address not only the shipment issues & delayed
should play a vital role to ensure business-
lead time but also will help reduce the additional cost.
friendly policies to the uninterrupted sustainable
supply chain. Finally, the focus area would be “Made in Bangladesh; for Bangladesh & Global
market”.
Taufique Anowar
Director,
Marketing & Md Jashim Uddin
Merchandising, Business Head,
Masco Group Care Chemicals, BASF Bangladesh Ltd.
Exclusive Interview
Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary-General, SWISSMEM and CEMATEX
Amid pandemic
BTT Interview
Cornelia Buchwalder is a leading
Cematex and name in the European textile

industry leadership with her
Swissmem are
aptitude and skill. She has been
serving the Swiss Textile Machinery
Association, Swissmem for more
optimizing processes than 10 years.

Currently, Cornelia Buchwalder is
and launching the Secretary-General of the Swiss

Textile Machinery Association,
innovations to
Swissmem.
At the same time, Cornelia
ensure a sustainable
Buchwalder is serving as the
permanent Secretary-General
future
of Cematex, the European
Committee of Textile Machinery
Manufacturers.
Swiss Textile Machinery
Association is the representative

Exclusive Interview
body for Switzerland’s producers

of textile equipment, systems
and services – which observed
its 80th-anniversary last year.
It is part of Swissmem – the
leading association for SMEs and
large companies in Switzerland’s
mechanical and electrical
engineering (MEM) industries and It provides
44 companies
related technology-oriented sectors. solutions covering
are affiliated
entire textile
Cematex is the official with it value chain
representative body for Europe’s
national textile machinery Figure 2: Some key roles of Swissmem.
associations – comprising
9 national European textile Textile Machinery Association. Belgium, Spain, the UK,
machinery associations including The members of the new Swiss Netherlands, France and Sweden.
Swissmem, Switzerland; VDMA, Association of Textile Machinery
Textile Today: The COVID
Germany; ACIMIT, Italy; AMEC- Manufacturers included well-
pandemic has added a new
AMTEX, Spain; SYMATEX, known brands such as Rüti, Sulzer,
dimension of Safe and Protective
Belgium; UCMTF, France; TMAS, Rieter and Saurer.
Textiles. Consumers are
Sweden; GTM, Netherlands; BTMA, Over the years, there were demanding special finishes as
UK – and has been in charge of numerous periods of great protection against infections. How
organizing the ITMA exhibitions, difficulty for the industry, global are Swissmem member companies
since the inaugural show in 1951, economic slumps and other crises working on this aspect? Have
and subsequent editions in both of varying degrees of seriousness there been any specific initiatives
Europe, Asia and China. followed one after another. The by Swiss companies to combat
In a recent interview with Textile profile of the world textile industry future crises?
Today, Cornelia shared her thoughts also changed. Mass production has
Cornelia Buchwalder: At the
on ITMA expo, Swiss technology long since migrated to the East
beginning of the pandemic, about
and innovation for the textile and South-East.
a year ago, it became apparent
industry and many other aspects.. Despite this, or perhaps precisely that Switzerland had hardly any
Textile Today: Swiss Textile because of this, Swiss textile production capacity for face
Machinery Association reached its machinery today holds a leading masks and protective clothing. By
80th-anniversary last year. As an position in the high-quality then it was dependent on imports,
old and experienced organization, segment of special machines which proved to be difficult
how is it setting its future goal? and top-quality materials. It is because these products were in
their entrepreneurial spirit that short supply globally and supply
Cornelia Buchwalder: Let me anticipates developments and chains were also interrupted.
first talk about the start of the incorporates them into the new
association in 1940. Leaders of the Several of our member companies
machines and solutions.
textile machinery industry were have contributed to the fact that
increasingly concerned about their Textile Today: How is Cematex the supply of protective masks
operations, especially the need promoting and strengthening the in Switzerland is now assured.
for non-ferrous metals and high- textile machinery of its member For example, the company Autefa
quality steel. associations? Solutions Switzerland. It has
Cornelia Buchwalder: Cematex's enabled the import of two machines
The situation became serious and
main promotional tool is ITMA. The with a production capacity of
some companies in the industry
leading exhibition of the textile 40'000 FFP 2 masks per day.
wanted to request the Swiss
Government to secure the required machinery industry, which is held Two further examples are our
raw material needed to maintain every four years in one of the nine- member companies Jakob Müller
production. The established member countries. and Steiger Participations. These
principle of ‘united we are strong’ It is a great showcase around companies reacted quickly to the
led representatives from 22 the innovative power of the supply crisis and launched the
companies to join forces in forming approximately 500 companies production of certified community
the first textile machinery group. affiliated with the nine national masks which are still needed today.
This was the origin of what textile machinery associations Textile Today: How can Swissmem
today has grown into the Swiss from Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and Cematex help Bangladesh

Exclusive Interview
· Representing European textile Cooperating

machinery industry vis-à-vis with other
associations in
EU & its bodies
textile machinery,
· Taking lead for creation of a engineering &
‘World Forum of Textile Technology’ textile industries
Figure 3: Some key roles of Cematex.
textile manufacturers to adopt They developed a new technology

cost-effective process? for the denim industry. Their
Cornelia Buchwalder: The technology uses electricity instead
European textile machinery of chemicals to reduce and make
manufacturers cover the entire indigo able to dye.
textile value chain, from spinning, Textile Today: What are the plans
winding, to weaving, knitting, of Swissmem and Cematex for
dyeing, finishing, printing, this New Year?
embroidery and quality control.
Cornelia Buchwalder: In the Swiss
With this and with their extended
Textile Machinery Association we
network of production, sales and
are on the one hand preparing
services around the world, they
events and Swiss pavilions for
established strong and close ties
the time after the pandemic.
with the textile manufacturers also
There is still a lot of uncertainty,
in Bangladesh.
but we want to be ready when
This enables them to respond international meetings with
more closely, better and faster to customers are possible again.
customer requirements, including
In the meantime, we are switching
cost-effective processes.
to digital platforms to maintain
Textile Today: What are the latest some contact with customers,
machinery Swiss textile machinery including in Bangladesh. And
manufacturers have innovated further, we are supporting
amidst environmental concerns on our companies in this period,
energy, water consumption and in optimizing processes and
chemical toxicity in textiles? launching innovations.
Cornelia Buchwalder: This is a Cematex's focus is on holding
big and important field that our ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai
members are constantly following in June 2021. Besides, intensive
up. The optimized utilization of work is already being done in the
resources, be it water or energy background of ITMA 2023 in Milan.
is one of the major topics, Registration for this exhibition will
which is an integral part of any start in March of this year.
development process.
And last but not least, we are also
Raw materials are scarce and driven by digitalization. What do
energy is expensive, therefore the current developments mean
making our machines more for trade shows? We are convinced
efficient in both aspects is key. that, especially after the pandemic,
When it comes to rethinking a exhibitions will again be a very
whole process, I could mention popular platform, enriched with
our member company Sedo virtual tools. That's what we're
Engineering. working on.
Recently Textile Today Training Organized Workshop
on “Career Planning & Opportunities in Textile Industry”
Mentor: Engr. Md. Nasir Ullah, Country Manager, Officiana +39
Mentor: Irin Akter, Global Technical Manager (Material & Testing), G-Star Raw
Mentor: Imtiaz Uddin Topu, GM (Fabrics), Hams Garments Ltd.

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 14, Issue 01 l Pages 43 to 60
Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

January 2021

Apparel accessories & fashion
January 2021
Business transparency Fair distribution Global
and honesty makes of orders can help scenario of
Aman Graphics and Bangladesh’s RMG suit and
Design Ltd. example for to recover blazer
apparel industry smoothly fashion
Green Benchmark
Business
transparency and
honesty makes Aman
Graphics and Designs
Ltd. example for
apparel industry
Rahbar Hossain
When we think about a factory,

Table: Aman Graphics and Designs Ltd. at a Glance
we think like there would be
Establishment Year 2010
noise, sounds of machinery, huge
gathering and so on! But recently Total Area 350,000 sq. ft.
Team Textile Today visited Aman Production Line 32 (30 lines for woven, 02 lines for knitting)
Graphics and Designs Ltd. and Product Range 100% Children Wear (10% Denim & 90%
found a different environment. Non-Denim)
The whole factory is wrapped
Capacity 900,000 pcs/month
with green trees, neat and clean
area, noise-free, no gathering and Manpower 3555
everything seemed so much LEAN. Buyers TESCO, M&S, NEXT, SAINSBURY’S, SHOP
DIRECT, JOHN LEWIS, TARGET, KMART, BIG W,
Aman Graphics and Designs Ltd.
MYER, IDKIDS, CARREFOUR, VERTBADUET,
(a concern of Unifill Group) lately
CARTER’S
achieved the LEED Platinum
certification from USGBC (U.S. Location Hemayetpur, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Green Building Council) on 22nd

December 2020. Aman Graphics
and Designs Limited has earned
90 LEED points in the (LEED)
EB O+M v3 which ranks them in
the top ten in the world’s LEED
industry segment.
Production excellence of AGDL
AGDL manufacture 0.9 million
pcs garments monthly with 60%
efficiency. The factory always gives
priority to customer satisfaction
as well as employee satisfaction.
The company manufacture
Figure 1: Aman Graphics and Designs Ltd. always gives priority to customer satisfaction
as well as employee satisfaction.

Green Benchmark
the Team, for the Team,” saying and workers do not just practice it,
Himel Mahmud, GM, Marketing & they believe it by heart.
Merchandising of AGDL.
For internal development, the
Sustainable initiatives and CSR company arranges training
and workshops on different
The company scored 90 LEED
need-based skills by local and
points in the (LEED) EB O+M
international consultants like
v3 which ranks them in the top
ESOne, RBC, Sensei, Mind Mapper,
ten in the world’s LEED industry
etc.
segment. That indicates they have
significant sustainable initiatives Md. Rukun Uzzaman, CEO of Aman
in the factory which is an example Graphics & Designs Ltd. said, “Our
for others. The company also main strengths are transparency
has Sustainability Roadmap 2041 and our business honesty. We give
Figure 2: AGDL has a high-efficiency where they have mentioned their values to our employees and they
hanger line.
next course of actions towards work from their heart, this is the
100% children wear, denim sustainability. All their units are mantra behind our success.”
and non-denim both. With top 100% ACCORD certified.
Saiful Hoque Bhuiyan, Chairman
(Shirts, Schakets, Hoody, Blazer,
Waistcoat) and bottom (chino
trouser, shorts, cargo, joggers,
skirts), they also cater premium/
signature set orders in three
combination- woven + Jersey;
woven + woven and woven +
sweater (shirts and tee set, shirt,
waistcoat and trousers/shorts with
bow set, dungaree and tee set).
Aman Graphics and Designs Ltd.
incorporated top-notch machinery
on the production floor. They have
one high-efficiency pilot-based
production line (Hanger line). If the
line performs well then, they have
a plan to increase the number of
hanger lines. Figure 3: AGDL has a high-efficiency hanger line.
They also use FAST REACT

software for planning and ERP
Not only the environment, but they of Aman Graphics & Designs Ltd.
software for operations. AGDL is
also do care about people. AGDL concluded by quoting, “Our gross
GOTS, OCS, GRS, RCS, OEKOTEX,
employed 120 specially-abled employee happiness is more
BCI, BSCI, WRAP, SEDEX, and
employees, gives scholarships important than our gross factory
City-Pad Certified. Their ‘Wall of
to deprived students, gives production.”
Fame’ is glowing with Awards and
computers to students, etc. The
Certifications like Best Supplier
company achieved CSR Award by
Award from TESCO, Eco-Factory
TESCO F&F in 2016, CSR Award by
Certificate from M&S, BEST PLAN
Mother Care 2015 and their 97%
A by M&S, Outstanding CSR Award
employees have job satisfaction,
by TESCO and many more.
surveyed by Elevate, USA.
R&D, Product Development &
Lean and 5S practice
Design Team
In the starting, as mentioned,
AGDL has a strong product
“everything seemed so much
development team. Their development
LEAN”! The company practice
hit rate is more than 90%. Buyer-wise
Lean from its’ beginning and now
product development lines made
all staffs are used to this Lean & 5S
them unparallel.
practice. From desk to production
“We are always focused on floor, everyone follows the rule
encouraging ‘Loyalty’, ‘Harmony’ willingly which is the very unique Figure 4: Green initiatives by AGDL.
and ‘Results’ of the Team, by point of the company. Employees

LEED Certification
AGDL awarded Green Building ‘LEED

Platinum-2009’ Certificate by USGBC
A H Monir
On 22 January 2021, Aman and LEED AP, that has expertise higher-ranked officials of both the
Graphics & Designs Ltd. (AGDL), and experience to work with more parties AGDL & 360 TSL attended
a sister concern of UNIFILL Group than 202+ project for securing this program at AGDL factory
is recognized as ‘LEED Platinum’ sustainable green building premises. On behalf of USGBC
rated factory which is retrofitted development as per global (US Green Building Council), the
with 90 scores by “LEED Platinum standard as pioneer consultant Managing Director of 360 TSL
2009” certification according in Bangladesh who vibrantly LEED AP, USGBC faculty Ananta
to Leadership in Energy and engage and actively manages the Ahmed handed over the Green
Environmental Design, known designated strategy to ensure the Building “LEED Platinum-2009”
as LEED, a rating system certification with their amicable Certificate to Saiful Haque
administered by the U.S. Green professionalism with his committed Bhuiyan, Chairman and Rokun
Building Council. team by joining hand with AGDL. Uzzaman, CEO of AGDL.
“We’re extremely thankful
to experience face-to-face
consultancy and regular guidance
from Team 360 TSL and Ananta
Ahmed which are very important
to complete this detailed works
and documentation,– said Saiful
Hoque Bhuiyan in his speech.
Distinguish guests from USGBC,
360 TSL and CEO of AGDL Rokun
Uzzaman also shared their feelings
for this remarkable achievement in
the ceremony.
360 TSL maintains that
considering LEED as a paper piece
Figure 1: Ananta Ahmed, Managing Director of 360 TSL LEED AP, USGBC faculty handed tiger as a certificate is a wrong
over the Green Building “LEED Platinum-2009” Certificate to Saiful Haque Bhuiyan,
understanding. It’s the most
Chairman and Rokun Uzzaman, CEO of AGDL.
implied business management
system if we take in and peruse.
This project is proudly consulted 28 January 2021, at certificate
Benefits are very high and could
by the country’s leading GREEN giving ceremony, the honorable
not be disregarded by means.
trusted partner 360 Total Solution high ranked officials of the US
Ltd. (360 TSL). It is identified as Green Building Council (USGBC) The program was covered by
7th in the world ranking and 4th attended online due to the Textile Today and closed by some
in Bangladesh under the factory pandemic situation. Also, all of the delicious refreshments.
category. Furthermore, ACCORD
Bangladesh, a third party fire &
building safety auditing body has
audited our facility and declared it
as a ‘safe’ workplace.
360 TSL under the leadership
of Bangladesh’s first and only
USGBC faculty and green building
professional expert Ananta
Ahmed, 2nd respective person in
the world who is USGBC Faculty
Figure 2: All of the higher-ranked officials of both the parties AGDL & 360 TSL attended
with 5 professional credentials this program at AGDL factory premises.

O r d e r Tr e n d s
Fair distribution of orders can help

Bangladesh’s RMG to recover smoothly
Riasad Rion
With the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic, the

global apparel value chain has experienced an
unprecedented disruption.
As the second-largest exporter of clothing products,
Bangladesh felt the jerk, which jolted the industry
leaving millions of workers in trouble.
Factory owners were in severe crisis as they were not
able to run the factory due to lockdown in home and
export destinations.
When the economies of importing countries
reopened, the buyers and brands started to take the
orders in progress and restored canceled orders.
Later, they also started to place fresh orders but that
was not enough to run the factory with full capacity.
Some of the buyers shifted orders to China and other
countries, who received more orders than the pre- Figure: Some of the buyers shifted orders to China and other
countries, who received more orders than the pre-COVID level.
COVID level.
As a result, countries like Bangladesh faced a be benefitted more by getting these additional
downtrend in order, which forced them to run with export orders," said Khondaker Golam Moazzem,
less capacity. research director of CPD.
According to the research of the Center for Policy "Particularly when these countries face fiscal
Dialogue (CPD), the market share of woven products constraints and weak social support schemes to
orders of China rose to 45% in post Covid-19 period, support their industries and workers."
which was 39% in the pre-COVID period, while
The market players of the global apparel value chain
Turkey's share rose to 4% from 3%.
should consider a distributive approach.
In the case of China, the share rose to 58% in
"This is to ensure the minimum required amount of
different products.
orders and income of the suppliers where supplying
Since the problem is associated with the supply and country governments of having the limited financial
demand of products, a Value Chain based Solution capacity to handle the challenges of enterprises
could help the country's exporters to turnaround. and workers through the social support scheme
The outbreak of Covid-19 has negatively impacted and support through public borrowing," said the
the global demand for apparel and the sudden economist.
massive fall in the global apparel demand produced Major brands and buyers through their appliances
a 'domino effect'. and forums would take decisions about the
So, in the given context, fair distribution of work distribution of orders to different supplying
orders by the global brands, buyers and retailers countries, he added.
could help Bangladeshi apparel suppliers to sustain Moazzem also said this redistribution would be
their business and recover from the Covid-19 further extended between suppliers within a targeted
pandemic smoothly. country where more vulnerable factories would get a
Countries, which have fiscal constraints like higher share of orders during the crisis period.
Bangladesh would benefit if the buyers consider it Such redistribution would be an effective instrument
and redistribute work orders. to keep factories in operation as well as to ensure
"The developed and developing countries which workers' well-being for a longer period, he noted.
received additional orders, are well-positioned to "Bangladesh needs prolonged support for this
support their industries and workers. In contrast, period. We need a better distribution of orders and a
there are countries in the supply chain which would value chain based redistribution, which is possible"

O r d e r Tr e n d s E v e n t s To d a y
If we can change the order distribution pattern at

least keep the order distribution at a pre-COVID •P
ost COVID apparel orders to
level that could help suppliers. Such redistribution some manufacturing countries
would be an effective instrument to keep factories in rose disproportionately while
operation as well as to ensure workers' well-being for Challenges others reeling for orders
a longer period, said Moazzem.
•C
reating a domino effect in
If the work orders of China remain at pre-COVID- manufacturing countries like
level, then orders worth about $2 billion could be Bangladesh with insufficient
given to other countries, said Moazzem. orders & closing down
Trade union leaders also called for a buyer-led factories, workers loosing jobs
initiative to recover from the crisis as well as to retain
the workers' employment. They also called not to cut
prices of goods.
"In the present context, it is quite possible to •N
eed strong fiscal constraints
overcome the present crisis caused by the Covid-19 & buyer support is a must in
with homegrown initiatives," said Amirul Haque countries like Bangladesh
Solution
Amin, president of the National Garment Workers
•P
roper distributive approach
Federation (NGWF).
in value chain
With the domestic support, brands and buyers have
to come forward and increasing order volume would •E
nsuring buyer-led initiative
be a great support for the industry, said Amin. with increased cooperation
among all stakeholders
"Buyers have canceled orders without taking the
responsibility. So it is time to rewrite due diligence or
laws in the buyer's country so that they cannot pull
out business illegally," said Kalpona Akter, Executive
"Government provided all-out support during the
Director, and Bangladesh Center for Workers
crisis, which helped the sector to turn around but the
Solidarity (BCWS).
second wave slowed down the speed and deepened
"Buyers and brands have to be responsible in every the crisis," said Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi.
step of the supply chain."
We are considering further support to the sector
There can be no such great tool to help the suppliers but the buyers should play an active role to help the
and workers if the sourcing country or buyers take manufacturers. If they equally treat Bangladesh with
steps to redistribute orders among the suppliers the other country, it would be a great support for the
amid the crisis, she added. sector to recover, said Tipu.
BGEA and BGBA jointly organized get together

Yeasin Miah
of the upcoming BGMEA election.

In the get-together, DNCC Mayor Atiqul Islam was
Chief Guest, Sammalito Porishod Panel Leader
Faruque Hassan, Managing Director of Giant Group
was Chief Speaker and BGBA President Kazi Iftehkher
Hossain was Guest of Honor, BGEA president
Masudur Rahman presides the meeting and Emdad Ul
Haq Miazi presenting the program.
Syed Nurul Islam CEO, Well Group of Industries;
BGMEA Vice President, Mashiur Azam; Director-
Mohammad Nasir; Abdullah Hil Rakib, MD, Team
Group; Shaidullah Azim, Managing Director of Classic
Figure: Leading industry figures attended in the program. Group; Mohammad Kamal Uddin, Chairman of Torque
Fashion, Salahuddin Chowdhury, Chairman, Stylish
Bangladesh Garments Executives Association (BGEA)
Garments were present.
and Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association
(BGBA) together arrange a get-together on 18th Also, around 200 RMG entrepreneurs have joined the
January 2021 at Uttara Club in Dhaka on the occasion program. The event was sponsored by Torque Fashion Ltd.

F a s h i o n To d a y
Global scenario
of suit and blazer
fashion
Figure 1: Global blazer industry is growing day by day.
Abir Basak
Over the years, suit and blazer have evolved parallel global waistcoats, jackets, and suits market.
to the preferences of the modern global consumer
Trendy global suit fashion
especially the country that has winter all year round.
As most lucrative attires it’s taking vantage position When it comes to men’s clothing, nothing is more
gradually while brands are heading forward to impressive than a suit. In western countries, young
produce it on large scale. and teenagers prefer t-shirts and jeans always as
streetwear dress, but in job interviews, corporate
Growing demand
culture, court appearances and wedding functions
Rising disposable incomes, growth in purchasing they must choose blazers as symbolic dress code.
power of the people from different socio-economic Sometimes they are seen to wear both t-shirt and
classes, increasing fashion consciousness and travels suit together.
are driving the consumer demand for premium and
1. Plain navy, grey, or charcoal suit
luxury products. As per Technavio, the rise in the
adoption of sustainable manufacturing will have a Black is a common color for the suit segment.
positive impact on the growth significantly of the Transforming black to plain navy two-button with a
notch lapel, it will give an extra dimension to look a

F a s h i o n To d a y
rich fashion.
2. Dark double-breasted suit
Highest suit & blazer exporter countries in FY 2019-20 (In US$ bn)
While single-breasted counterpart has proved its (Source: Staista)
versatility and continued popularity, blazer lovers 8
want to pick the right setting for a double-breasted 7 6.42

blazer. Typically, six buttons lapels double-breasted 6
suit created a craze among American bankers in the 5
’80s. This old fashion has come back again greatly
4
among young people with stylish cut & shape. Many
3
guys choose this option for its inherent flair.
2
3. Check suit
1 0.17
0.2 0.19 0.14 0.12
It’s a lot more versatile than something anyone pair 0
with leather leggings or a midi skirt! The traditional China Bangladesh Vietnam Taiwan Cambodia India
black and white variant of checked print is perfect
for the office. But the Scottish tartan will give blazer
lovers an exciting new look.
Covid-19 impact on blazer business
4. Oversized blazer
Covid-19 has shaken up the world's fashion sector
The oversized, boxy, menswear blazer has taken over like a hurricane. During a pandemic, total retail
the runway and become a street style favorite for apparel sales have been decreased 28 to 32% in
spring 2020. 2020, while luxury apparel sales have dropped 16.8%,
5. The dad look says Trendex, a market intelligence company. It has
also affected the blazers industry whose sales have
Who knew dad would become such a style icon? fallen by 10% in the last 8 months globally.
For the oversized check blazer, fashion lovers go full
force with the dad look. Indeed suit, blazer, coat & jacket business has been
“extremely slow” even since the end of lockdown.
6. Knit, washed or floral print Hugo Boss, Gap, Bonobos, Uniqlo, H&M, M&S, Calvin
Different washed and knit blazer is gaining popularity Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Armani, Garry
among customers. Pastel and cheery suits are Weber, LPP, Diesel, Kaiser, Zara, Jack & Jones, etc
trending during Covid-19 challenging times. Bright popular brands lost at least USD 40 billion to sell
colors are great, especially for the summer vibe. high-end blazer. Garry Weber's sales for the six
months fell 43.3% to 140.5 million euros, 61.5% sales
Global value of suit and blazer market
of M&S dropped of the first quarter of the year
The blazer market looks like a positive growth even although it recovered 21.3% dramatically of the
if the Covid-19 outbreak. Experts say, during the second quarter, PVH lost 43% high-end product sales
pandemic although the whole textile market shrinks, in last 6 months amounted for US$ 1.2 bn.
gradually business turns back while the critical
Around the world, the second wave of Covid-19 has
situation is overcoming.
already been started while everybody thinks the
According to Statista, the value of jackets, coats first phase is ended almost. Already few European
and blazers product segment are about US$ 39 Bn countries undergo lockdown. Undoubtedly this will
& is expected to reach a value of US$ 134 Bn at a hit the business again from the first months of the
CAGR of 6.6% growth rate and account for 47% of New Year.
the market share by the end of 2027. Presently China
Business insiders think the industry may take a
controls the market share up to 70%. Bangladesh,
minimum of four to six months to see business back
Vietnam, Taiwan, Cambodia, Turkey, India, Pakistan,
to the normal track. Financially strong companies are
Sri Lanka dominate 15%, 10%, 4% & others 1%
expected to recover faster.
respectively. European countries like Italy, France,
Portugal, and Romania also manufacture suits on an E-commerce sales are growing tremendously during
industrial scale. the pandemic. Online sales have jumped 66%, as
Hugo Boss launched e-commerce in 24 markets to
The USA is the largest market export destination
meet its target for €400 million of online sales by
for Blazer. In global comparison, most revenue is
2024. Not only Hugo Boss, 34% surge in online sales
generated in China who exported US$ 6.42 Billion
of M&S but H&M also invested £530m - 45% of its
worth of blazers during FY 2019-20, according to the
total investments, 26.2% from Uniqlo and in average
Business wire. Bangladesh exported US$ 200 million
the online sales growth rate of premium quality
in the last fiscal year while US$ 196.01 million, US$
blazer making brands are up to 46%.
174.8 million, US$ 144.06 million, US$ 122.89 million
from Vietnam, Taiwan, Cambodia, India respectively.

Shimanto Shomvar, 8th Floor,
BGB Gate No 4, Pilkhana,
Road No. 2, Dhanmondi
Dhaka-1205 , Bangladesh
F i b e r To d a y
bright yellow silk and the paler
What makes lotus

lotus version is that every single
strand of natural lotus silk must be
extracted by hand. Every thread
silk the rarest fiber

of lotus silk starts with the stem of
the lotus flower.
in the world?
While this fabric has been made
for years in Myanmar by using
Lotus flower, Phan Thi Thuan’s
family only started experimenting
with this fiber in 2017.
Shafiun Nahar Elma Process
Once the Lotus stem is selected
and picked by hand, the silk inside
of the flower can be extracted.
One stem contains a minuscule
amount of thin, sticky fibers,
which must be rolled together and
dried also. The threads need to be
processed within 24 hours while
stems fiber are wet.
In another way, these fibers will
breakdown. The lotus plants are
only available to harvest between
April and October. Once they’ve
gone through the hard work of
extracting these fibers, they're
Figure: Lotus fiber extraction. Courtesy: Collected incredibly subtle too. Once dry,
these yarns are carefully weighed
Introduction women. With infinite patience,
down and delicately hand-reeled.
these women begin a delicate
Lotus silk, a natural flower fiber, Then yarns are put into the loom.
manual procedure to transform the
is a rare and highly exclusive
fiber into a silk thread that can be These natural fibers are breakable,
fiber. This natural flower fiber is
woven. Cambodian seamstresses but once it becomes woven, it may
only extracted by a few expert
work with the silk in a workshop, be as viable as traditional silk.
craftspeople across the world.
bringing the greatest attention to Phan Thi Thuan has a team of
But making this silk isn't easy.
the quality of their clothes. 20 workers who creating and
Extracting enough lotus silk for
one scarf can take two months or History make ready these fibers each day,
more than that. The final product allowing them to produce 10 to 20
Lotus flowers are sacred to Hindus
of Lotus silk can cost 10 times as scarves per month. But when it is
and Buddhists. They symbolize
much as regular silk. about 25-centimeter scarf can sell
the mind, the soul, enlightenment
for just over $200, the hard work is
Fabric produced from lotus silk is and purification of the body.
completely worth it.
found only on small scale across Mythology has it that the origins of
Cambodia, Myanmar, and more lotus root silk lie in one Myanmar The final product is completely
recently in Vietnam. The lotus woman’s devotion to their faith. different from any other fiber
is Vietnam's national flower and and fabric. It is so soft like silk,
Phan Thi Thuan's family of
a plant that's grown across the breathable like linen, and slightly
Myanmar has been making silk
country. like vivid.
for generations, growing and
The silk thread comes from the harvesting the threads from Some instructions for lotus silk
stem of a lotus flower. Therefore silkworms themselves to create This lotus fabric will not need a lot
this fiber is 100% animal cruelty- luxury garments. But making lotus of washing. If anyone would like
free. These rare textiles are woven silk is different, which usually to wash their Lotus scarf though,
in Cambodia in workshops whose comes from silkworms. But Lotus they have to consider the following
art dates back more than 5000 silk comes from flower fiber it instructions:
years. doesn’t depend on any kind of
worm, it is completely handmade. • Use only a drop of very mild
In Cambodia, weaving is an soap;
exclusive skill mainly reserved for The key difference between the

Order Dealing Tips F i b e r To d a y
• Do not leave your scarf soaking; • Use an iron-on silk program and and also uncommon like lotus
iron the scarf when still moist. fabric. But the scale of it has
• Do not wring out or twist the
been limited, as there are still few
scarf; Conclusion
trained in the making of these silk
• Leave the scarf to dry in a flat Some luxurious features have threads or yarn. But despite the
position; made it popular with tourists work involved, Phan Thi Thuan
searching for rare souvenirs. It's is wishing that this natural fabric
• Avoid direct sunlight when
also recently been picked up from lotus fabric become a larger
drying;
by international fashion brands industry one day.
• Do not use a tumble dryer; searching for new luxury fiber
11 tips to deal with small orders

Rasel Ahmed Likhon, Merchandiser, Esquire Knit Composite Ltd.
Now a day competition is

increasing in the garments
industry. In past, factories rely
on few buyers with huge order
volumes. Now, because of huge
competition, factories have to
work with lots of buyers with
short volume orders. If one style
is running in a garments line
continuously, productivity should
be increased gradually and after
few days it reaches maximum
productivity (there is always a
scope to increase productivity).
But for short order quantity,
we need to achieve maximum
productivity from the very first
day. Otherwise, the targeted profit
may not be achieved. Figure: To achieve targeted profit for short order quantity, maintaining maximum
productivity from the very first day is essential.
Here are a few tips for the
garments manufacturer who is 4. Reduce red tape barriers: Clear and timely communication
dealing with small orders: Order to sample, sample to bulk will help.
lead-time needs to reduce by
1. Identify the pattern of that 9. Management: Management
prompt decision making backed
style: Yarn count, the requirement should be on the toe with a
up by proper and transparent
of line setup and balancing, thinking mind.
information.
requirement of the multi-skill 10. SCM: Proper supply chain
operator, requirement of a special 5. Automation: Replacing some
integration with logistics support.
machine. manual machines to enable
efficient production and reduced 11. Changeover pre-activities:
2. Take a calculative risk: For short order quantity, style
DHU (Defect per hundred units).
Buffer yarn stock, flexibility changing happens frequently.
in line arrangement, contract 6. Efficiency: Marker efficiency, no
Before any style change,
manufacturing option evaluation, shortcutting, no helper.
some precautionary actions
small lines, similar product in a 7. Quality: End line quality and are necessary. By doing these
similar line, small dyeing machine, establishing proper QMS (Quality activities properly, change over
matching knitting Dia, etc. Management System), so that time may be reduced. I have
3. Adjust risk with premium: operators can maintain line quality. discussed this topic in my previous
Absorb it into the price, where article “Pre-activities for a quick
8. Communication with buyer:
possible. successful changeover”

Exports Update
Home textile exports post robust

growth by 48% in H1 of FY21
FT Research
While Bangladesh's apparel Covid-19 pandemic, which Hossain, Managing Director of

exports witnessed a 3% during the disrupted the supply chain and R.T.T Textile Industries told Textile
July-December period of FY21, its reduced demands as people were Today.
foreign currency earnings from staying at home.
As of now the global market is
the home textile products posted
However, the stay at home over 90 billion but our share is
a robust growth by 48% to $547
increased the demands of knitwear very small and we can grab more
million.
products and home textile items, shares, he added.
which helped exporters to earn a
Also, business is shifting from
better even amid the pandemic.
China, which is offering an ample
"With the outbreak of Covid-19 opportunity for Bangladesh, said
pandemic, people were very Hossain.
afraid about the infection and
However, the sector leader also
they stayed at home, while the
called for the devaluation of Taka
government-sponsored lockdown
against the US dollar as it would
in European Union and the US
help to improve competitiveness in
including other countries put
the global markets.
a bar to go out," Mohammed
Rashed Mosharrof, General "Bangladeshi currency gained
Manager (Marketing) and Head Of against the US dollar, while our
Operations of Zaber and Zubair competitors are enjoying extra
Figure: The stay at home increased the Fabrics told Textile Today. benefits as their currencies are
demands of knitwear products and home devalued," M Shahadat Hossain,
textile items, which helped exporters to "Besides, people joined offices
earn a better even amid the pandemic.
Chairman of Bangladesh Terry
staying at home as corporate
Towel and Linen Manufacturers
As per Export Promotion Bureau offices allowed employees to work
and Exporters Association
(EPB) data, during the July- from home. Peoples' movement, as
(BTTLMEA) told Textile Today.
December period, the first half well as travel, was restricted due to
the Covid-19 pandemic," Right now, our exporters are
of the current fiscal year 2020-
facing competition in the global
21, Bangladesh earned $547.48 Since the users did not go out and
market due to the appreciation
million, up by 48% compared to stayed at home, they mostly used
of Taka against USD. So, the
$370 million in the same period home textile products and they
government should provide policy
of last fiscal year. In the FY20, the used outwear products on a very
support and devalued Taka by Tk5
sector brought $759 million. limited scale, Rashed said.
against USD to help us to increase
Home textile products include Since Bangladesh has quality competitiveness in the global
bed linen, bed sheet and other products at affordable prices, markets, said Hossain.
bedroom textiles, bath linen, exporters have been able to take
carpets and rugs, blankets, the advantage of higher demands, Bangladesh exported $936
kitchen linen, curtains, cushions he added. mn Home textile items in 19-
and cushion cover and covers for 20FY. meaning BD has more
Talking to the Textile Today sector
quilts.
people opined that Bangladesh
However, exports earnings from can earn over $1 billion from the
the RMG sector declined by 3% to sector but it needs policy support
$15.54 billion during H1 of FY21, to grow further.
which was $16 billion in the same
We earned $936 million the last
period of last year.
calendar year and there is a huge
Exports earnings from clothing opportunity to grow in the global scope to explore this sector
products declined due to the markets. Bangladesh has a skilled with more people staying at
devastating impacts of the workforce and expertise," Belayet home

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In Bangladesh solely promoted by Huetech Yarn Ltd.

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E v e n t To d a y IEB Accreditation
Dongyi Sourcing Ltd targets $100

mn revenue by 2025
Ashraful Alam
Recently Dongyi Sourcing Limited partners with Dongyi Sourcing.

– a well-known buying house
The grand event was held at
among the country’s garment
a hotel in Dhaka, where the
exports – celebrated its first
officials and staff of the company
anniversary in a colorful event.
celebrated the 1st anniversary.
In the grand event, Mofazzel
Prominent industrialist and Dhaka
Hossain Pavel, Managing Director
North Mayor Atiqul Islam was
of Dongyi Sourcing Ltd, set an
present as the Chief Guest on the
ambitious US$100 million revenue
occasion.
collection target by 2025.
Among others, Faruque Hasan,
Mofazzel Hossain urged all the
Managing Director of Giant Group,
officers and employees of Dongyi Figure: Dongyi Sourcing Limited celebrated
Md. Sirajul Haque, Managing its first anniversary in a colorful event.
Sourcing to work passionately to
Director of Sparkle Knit; Shahadat
meet the target. Delicate Group and other officials
Hossain, Managing Director of
He also expressed his gratitude to Fratis Group; Nazrul Islam, Director of Dongyi Sourcing Ltd. were
those who have been working as of Well Group; Delwar Hossain of present on the occasion.
Textile Engineering Dept. of Primeasia

University attained accreditation from IEB
Primeasia Correspondent
Recently Primeasia University’s

Textile Engineering Department
has attained the Accreditation
from the Institution of Engineers,
Bangladesh (IEB) under the
vibrant leadership of current Vice-
Chancellor (acting) Prof. Dr. Engr.
Md. Humaun Kabir.
This endorsement will be
accessible for next 3 years and all
the graduated Textile Engineers of
Primeasia University will be able Figure: Felicitation to Textile Engineering Department, Primeasia University for obtaining
to be members of IEB by fulfilling the accreditation from The Institution of Engineers, Bangladesh (IEB) organized by Textile
Engineers Division (TED), IEB was held on January 30, 2021, at the Council Hall, IEB.
certain norms of the IEB.
The Textile Engineering Division Nabi Khan, Pro VC, BUFT and Engineering Division, IEB.
of IEB arranged a Felicitation Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Humaun Kabir,
Vote of Thanks was provided by
Program for Primeasia University VC (Acting), Primeasia University
Engr. Md. Ashad Hossain, Vice
on 30th January 2021, to rejoice were present as Special Guests.
Chairman, TED. All the Faculty of
the achievement at the IEB Council
The event was chaired by Engr. Textile Engineering Department,
Hall.
Md. Masudur Rahman, Chairman Primeasia University and the
Where, Eng. Md. Shahadat Textile Engineering Division, IEB Alumni of Primeasia University
Hossain Shiblu, Honorary General and led by Engr. Syed Atiqur Textile Engineering Department
Secretary, IEB was present as a Rahman, Secretary, Textile were also present at the event.
Chief Guest. Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub

Marketing Tips
Beginners’
a limit. Risk is low so is return.
Operating in the blue ocean is
easy but difficult to find. It requires
proper analysis and long term
guidelines for
360-degree strategy to strive for in
this market. Return is high but the
risk is also high. It’s a choice.
marketing in a
3. Making conventional marketing
choices
This about 5 Ps of marketing that
would enable the sales team to
manufacturing
operate well: -
a. Product
b. Price
company
c. Placement
d. Packaging and
e. Promotion
4. Maneuver towards new
opportunities
Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM
Having a good marketing strategy
Marketing is the heart of an is an important element of
organization as it not only helps sustainability. It has to be revolved
to navigate the company to Global Demand along with the feedback from the
generate a maximum consistent market and sales team that acts as
inflow of funds but also acts a barometer to gauge. Integrating
as the guiding force towards with new technology and channels
sustainability. Marketing refers to of marketing and looking for new
5 Ps; i.e. Product, Price, Placement, Country Demand customers and segments is important.
Packaging and Promotion that Therefore, it’s good to have an
helps sales to execute and income statement every month and
earn revenue for the company. calculate the cost and returns from
Marketing sets the rules while sales different products or segments or
execute. Whether the company Industry Demand markets and maneuver total activity
operates in the Red Ocean or Blue towards that. It is always taught
Ocean is determined by marketing. to do well and requires persistent
technological and geopolitical
I am sharing my views on aspects. With this exercise, it effort to excel.
marketing for a manufacturing would give an
company concerning all other idea of where the
lances as it can be looked through. opportunities are
and how to capture Demand-
Setting marketing strategy
the market. supply
The strategy is all about analysis
positioning. Differentiating from 2. Which market do
others is positioning that is we want to operate
strategically done. in?
1. Demand-Supply Analysis It’s very important Which

conventional
to decide which market do Core
marketing
It’s important to start with the market do we we want to components
choises
demand-supply analysis; starting operate? of marketing
want to operate
from world demand to country in? Red ocean or
demand to industry demand- Blue Ocean. Most
supply scenario. of the companies
We need to look into the core are operating in Manuver
product, related product and the red ocean and towards
their driving force is opportunities
substitute products' demand-
supply scenario and trend operational efficiency
considering demography, regional, which of course has

Enroll a STB Black Belt program
Earn a professional qualification in
the Textile Indusrty
Se
mester 202 New Normal Sp
Se
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Sea
1 r
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g On New Challenge t Lim

in
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Spr
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A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 14, Issue 01 l Pages 61 to 76
Unveiling industry best practices D e n i m f a b r i c & e ff e c t s

January 2021
Nice Denim Mills: A Bangladesh and Denim market to

one-stop solution for other jeans grow globally with
quality denim fabric, exporting countries growing demand
competitive price and witness a dip in for recycled and
shorter lead time export to US new materials
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Industry Best Practice
Nice Denim Mills: A

one-stop solution for
quality denim fabric,
competitive price
and shorter lead time
Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba
Nice Denim Mills Limited (NDML),

one of the leading manufacturers
and exporters of denim fabric,
a business unit of Saad Group
started its journey in 2016 in
Mawna, Sreepur, Gazipur with a
vision to establish itself as the
largest denim manufacturer in the
world. Only within four years of
journey, this denim mill has been
able to stand out from others with
its adoption of state-of-the-art
technologies and industry best
practices.
The ingenious arrangement of
four rope dyeing machines with
different capacities to capture
Figure 1: Nice Denim Mills Ltd. leading members.
both large and small orders,
multi-layer inspection on various
Due to the combination of 16 ropes mind: quality, reasonable costing
processes including the Long
and 48 ropes under one shed, and faster lead time. NDML’s all
Chain Beaming, their lucrative side
Nice Denim has a competitive the sections are orchestrated
business of selling re-coned indigo
price advantage over the local towards success by these three
dyed yarn, prudent decision of
and international market. So, what points.
keeping direct warping machine,
is the secret sauce behind their
installments of automation like Taking the quality yarn cones or
success? Today we will look closely
computerized beam storage cheese packages from NDML’s
at each section of this denim mill
system- Beam Stacker, state of finely managed 1000-ton yarn sub-
and find out their best practices
the art auto leasing and auto store, they make balls according to
that are giving them such leverage.
drawing machine to keep up with the number of total ends, length
the modern world, a youthful, Efficient Ball Warping and equal tension in individual
energetic R&D team and prompt yarn using their Ball Warping
According to Engr. Ahammod
lab facilities have enabled them machines efficiently. During
Babor, the Senior DGM (Plant &
to offer great quality, shorter lead production, individual yarn tension
Operations) of NDML, the factory
time and competitive price to their is measured for its uniformity.
is run by keeping three aspects in
buyers.

At this point, Engr. Ahammod

Table: Nice Denim Mills Ltd. at a glance
Babor, the Senior DGM (Plant &
Establishment year 2016
Operations) of NDML said, “All
Land area 967129 SFT these features make Nice Denim
Section Area 572000 SFT Mills cost-effective and price
Production capacity 6 Million Yards (Per Month) competitive. As we can efficiently
use our capacity and have strong
No. of Rope dyeing Machine name Origin
backward linkage, we can achieve
machines a) Morrison Rope Dye range. USA shorter lead time and offer a
b) Green Ville Rope Dye range. USA competitive price to our buyers.”
c) Smartech- 40 and Smartech- China NDML also takes pride in some
16 Rope dye range additional advantages of its rope
Long Chain Beaming Karlmayer, Germany. dyeing process.
(LCB) machines Karlmayer,Germany & Tsudakoma, Japan. Engr. Nizamul Hossain, Sr. DGM
Machine name Origin (Production) of Nice Denim Mills
Ltd. explained, “An advantage
Air jet from Picanol Belgium
that we take from rope dyeing
Rapier from Picanol Optimax-1 Belgium compared to slasher is, in slasher,
Rapier Dobby from Picanol Belgium the dyeing happens in sheet
Optimax-1 form where single yarns can get
finishing machines Morrison, Greenville & Kuster, USA. affected, which can ultimately
Inspection machines STT, Taiwan. affect the yarn quality. For the
same reason, there is a possibility
ETP (Biological) 150 m/cub/hr, Simem, Italy.
to have CSV (Cross-Shade
capacity
Variation) in slasher dyeing which
Buyers ALDI, LIDL, H&M, Next Sourcing, GAP, C&A, is not an issue in Rope dyeing as
LPP, ZARA INDITEX, K-MART, OKAIDI, there is even stress on each yarn.”
JEANIOLOGIEA, HEMA, MAX, MACETON,
“In the loom, every single thread
PRIMARK
is important. A weak thread can
cause great wastage. So, we also
Full advantage of Rope Dyeing is both big and small orders in a
take the advantage of rope dyeing
taken very cost-effective way without
in the loom,” Engr. Nizamul further
any extra energy and chemical
Rope Dyeing is considered to be a added.
waste. As Green Ville is a giant
superior dyeing technology where
machine having 48 rope capacity, Yarn quality is checked in Long
the dyeing uniformity achieved is
NDML can dye at large volume Chain Beaming
better than other indigo dyeing
with nominal shade variation and In NDML’s Karl Mayer Long Chain
technologies like slasher dyeing.
keep the quality by maintaining Beaming machines (LCBs), the
Keeping the advantages of the
consistency. yarn alignment in the dyed rope
rope dyeing technique in the
background, NDML has installed
4 state-of-the-art rope dyeing
machines with verities/multiple
ropes including the Green Ville
Rope Dyeing machine which is the
biggest of its kind in Bangladesh.
It is a 48-rope machine having
maximum Dye boxes with a big
volume. With this machine, they
can achieve the highest indigo dye
shade percentage. They also have
a Morrison Rope Dyeing Machine
and two Smartech machines.
All the convenient features of
these machines compared to
Slasher Dyeing and their ingenious
combination enable them to take Figure 2: GreenVille Rope Dyeing machine (48 Rope Dyeing machine) in Nice Denim Mills
Ltd., Bangladesh.

lucrative side-business for them. Finishing with state-of-the-art

machines
A strong touch of automation:
NDML has all branded finishing
Beam stacker, Auto leasing and
machines including mercerizing,
Auto drawing
stenter, sanforizing, singeing
Nice Denim Mills Ltd. is perfectly and Ozone finish machines. The
in line with the wave of the fourth Ozone finish machine (Jeanologia,
industrial revolution. They have Spain) has two Ozone generators
a computerized beam storage that generate Ozone from the
Figure 3: Bromo indigo and laser friendly
system: Beam Stackers where atmosphere in a sustainable way
dyeing are also done here at NDML. they can store 220 beams and and substantially reduce the
is changed from a rope form to consumption of water, energy and
a sheet form. NDML employees chemicals.
enjoy the advantage of checking Thorough inspection
each yarn quality while beaming.
NDML workers check every weak At the final stage, Inspection
point and knot them if there is any takes place and if any problem
yarn breakage. As a result, their is found NDML employees take
quality of the yarn is fantastic the necessary steps to solve it.
in the loom where good quality Nice Denim Mills Ltd. has STT
yarn means smooth running of Inspection machines which
the looms, greater efficiency and can meet the daily production
better quality. Figure 4: Indigo dyed yarn cone.
capacity.
Well creeling and yarn break R&D Department- a collection of

find any specific beam with the
controlling are maintained in energetic and youthful people
push of a button, they have fully
Sizing automated Auto leasing and Auto After asking the question- why
To increase the strength of yarn drawing machines which save a NDML’S R&D stands out from
for the next weaving process, lot of working hours and increase others, Md. Ismail Hossain,
NDML uses its Karl Mayer and efficiency. Most importantly they Manager, R&D at Nice Denim Mills
Tschudakoma sizing machines are error-free and have given Ltd. said in one sentence “Team
which have a total capacity of NDML the room to take more spirit!”.
more than 2lac yards/day. The orders and offer greater quality. He said, “We have young,
employees ensure well creeling Efficient weaving energetic people, all below the age
and yarn break controlling to of 35. We work as a team.”
create a better final beam. With an arrangement of the huge
loom set up, NDML is meeting He further added, “We give
They also ensure refraction,
6 million capacity /month. For feedback in the fastest possible
viscosity, size Pickup, tension, etc.
producing perfect beams in the time. Moreover, our capacity,
parameters for each order and
previous section, NDML gets a production and delivery- all are
provide the best possible sizing
competitive advantage in weaving. much more than others. Our
which helps the warp yarns to
Their weaving efficiency generally sample lead time is only 3-7 days.”
tolerate the tension in weaving.
reaches up to 92% per shift. They He informed that NDML’s R&D
The lucrative business of selling also have an online monitoring department has two Turkish, one
re-coned indigo dyed yarn system of loom efficiency. Italian and one Pakistani employee
In Nice Denim Mills Ltd., there
is a separate 40-ton capacity
arrangement for re-coning indigo
dyed yarn. There is a huge market
for such kind of yarn which is
used in knitting and sometimes
in weft yarn also. As rope dyeing
arrangement is a costly set-up
and NDML has a strong position
here, the buyers directly buy
such yarns from them rather
than manufacturing these yarns
themselves. As a result, NDML can
sell such dyed yarns which is a Figure 5: Neat and clean production floor with enough space.

for technical support which makes

them more competitive. Moreover,
they have a subscription to WGSN
which enables them to be ahead
of time in trend analysis.
Ismail shared staggering
information that after COVID-19,
their order quantity and efficiency
have been drastically improved.
He explained, “This is because we
started scrutinizing ourselves and
focused on the accuracy. Rather
than sending too many options
and waiting for comments from
the buyers, we became more Figure 6: Nur E Yasmin Fatima, DMD of Figure 7: Abdullah Mohammad Saad,
Nice Denim Mills Ltd. Managing Director, Nice Denim Mills Ltd.
focused and began to send only
one quality option. This made all
In Nice Denim Mills Ltd., the from 28 textile participants of the
the difference.”
designated storage areas are Supplier Qualification Program.
A well-equipped Laboratory separated from each other to
Recently Saad group of industries
NDML has a laboratory for quality allow for easy movement of
/Nice denim Mills ltd. achieved
assurance that is equipped with personnel and movement devices
USCTP (United states cotton Trust
the latest equipment needed to like trolleys, forklifts, etc. The
Protocol) certification which is very
meet buyers’ requirements. They movement areas are marked.
important because most of the USA
have Wrap Reel, Electric Twist Moreover, the factory has separate
customers ask for this certification
Tester, Board Winder (Electric), unobstructed and marked
before order confirmation.
Universal Strength Tester (Titan5), emergency exits.
“For superior quality and
Crock master, Gyro Wash, The factory also has a well-
commitment customers knows the
Incubator, Mettler Toledo (pH managed rejected area where they
name Nice Denim Mills Ltd. From
Meter), Orbital Shaker, Flexi Frame, can store all the rejected goods
the beginning, we only focused
Elmartear Digital Tear Tester, and can find them when needed.
on quality and that’s why we
Shrinkage Scale with Template
It also has proper ventilation, installed all world-class machinery
35cm, Maxi-Martindale Abrasion
health and medical facilities, prayer and recruited experienced team
and Pilling Tester, Stiffness
room, dining facilities, proper members. We are working for the
Testers, Digital Weight Balance,
parking area, training facilities, first nation and we want to contribute
Perspirometer, Acrylic Palates,
aid, machine, electrical and fire more in the future by our good
Weight Piece (AATCC & ISO) and
safety, child care center, etc. work,” said Nur E Yasmin Fatima,
a lot of other testing equipment
DMD of Nice Denim Mills Ltd.
demanded by the buyers. An effective ERP software is on
the trial-error phase and on the Overall, Nice Denim Mills Ltd.
Sustainable good practices
way to full implementation in the stands out as one of the most
Nice Denim Mills Ltd. has mill. The top management believes sustainable, eco-friendly denim
established a world-class Biological that it will assist them to increase manufacturing mills in the world.
Effluent Treatment Plant having efficiency, create managerial And undoubtedly, on their way to
a capacity of 3600 m3/ Day that transparency and keep them one achieving their goal of becoming
ensures environmentally compliant step ahead to achieve their goals. one of the top mills in the world.
effluent conforming to standards
Certification and awards Abdullah Mohammad Saad,
set by the Bangladesh government.
Managing Director, NDML
Nice Denim Mills Limited has
They also have Aniline free, salt- concluded, “We are already
achieved different awards and
free, advance, cradle to cradle, catering a large volume of denim
certifications like SEDEX, BSCI,
waterless and laser friendly dyeing fabric orders with high efficiency
GOTS, OCS, OEKO-TEX, C-TPAT,
facilities to promote sustainability. and quality (weaving, dyeing &
RCS, GRS, certificate of COVID-19
They also make organic products finishing). Now we are sincerely
Management System by GIZ and
and follow zero cotton concepts to focusing on Spinning and Printing
recognitions from a lot of other
take part in ensuring the wellbeing production also. Our target is to
recognized institutions. NDML
of people and the planet. be a complete solution provider
has also got the certificate of
Compliance issues and other as we are always concerned about
achievement from LIDL and Baycity.
managerial good practices customer satisfaction and ensure
This denim mill got first place
business sustainability.”

Reactive Dyes and Dye Intermediates
Chemistry
Colors
Behind
DYECOL CELF
DYECOL CEFT
DYECOL RR
DYECOL DR
DYECOL SS
DYECOL CE
ZDHC
ZERO WASTE
MANUFACTURING
GOTS/
Approved
GATEWAY / REGISTERED
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD

301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan
Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India
MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525
E-MAIL: nnm@shreepushkar.com
WEBSITE: www.shreepushkar.com
Dyeing Updates
Commercialization process of
natural indigo dye in Bangladesh
Apurba Deb Roy
Indigo is a leguminous plant that farmer before indigo extraction

can add nodule in the soil for that this plant can be used as
nitrogen fixation. Indigo leaves making a famous natural indigo
are dropping and adding as green dye color other than fuel.
manure for the soil. Unfertile
However, in 2007 in Rangpur,
soil becoming fertile because of
the author was then assigned
continuous indigo cultivation.
by CARE Bangladesh to work
Spent leaves after extraction is a
on extraction which was turned
good source of compost which
into a commercialization process
decomposes quickly and turned
through Nijera Cottage and Village
into good organic matter. This
Industries (PVT) limited, a social
compost is very good for kharif-2
enterprise-a project of CARE
season when vegetables start to
Bangladesh funded by Shree
cultivate in most of the areas in
of DFID. It was a long journey
Rangpur and Nilphamari districts.
to entail research on indigo
Compost can also be preserved for
extraction and production using
potato and other field crops.
comprehensive technologies.
Indigo shibori dying is a Figure 1: Leaf collection for indigo This action research has been
fashionable and artistic design on extraction. Courtesy: Collected brought out a new mileage in
the textile is known to western for "nil farming" by the British and indigo extraction as commercial
countries including Africa and Rangpur are the key areas where production in Bangladesh so far.
Asia. Indigo dyeing has very good this superior indigo is grown. The initiative of the indigo
effects on Bangladeshi silk fabrics, All the indigo used for dyeing commercialization process has
Comilla's khadi, hand oven and purposes in this textile collection greater scope to create numerous
hand span fabrics for developing has been produced in Bangladesh vocations and jobs creations
scarves, dress, shawl, home décor, and is of the highest quality, with for plant cultivators, harvesters,
RMG’s yarn, and products and the indigotin content of Indigo. extraction manufacturers and
hand-stitched quilts and other
Traditionally this plant has been dyers as well as shibori and
fashionable product ranges.
cultivating by the farmers for khanta artisans in rural areas
Indigo comes from a plant species the last two decades in most of especially in northwest districts
indigofera tinctoria, which is also the fellow and unfertile lands in of Bangladesh. Each of these
known as ‘true indigo’, native to Rangpur and Nilphamari only for activities can add value and the
the northwest of Bangladesh, the the consumption of firewood/fuel. actors are cross-connecting and
famous indigo producing region of It was quite a mystery to every collaborating with each other’s’
Bengal. Nilphamari was renowned specialties, thereby creating a
foundation for small and medium
enterprises.
This initiative has a greater role
to meet the government’s recent
priorities for regional economic
development as with a link to
SDGs goal and objectives.
The objectives for
commercialization of indigo
extraction and production are
a) Create sustainable agro-based
business opportunities through
manufacturing indigo dye and
indigo dyed products for textile in
Figure 2: Indigo dye collection from the Tank. Courtesy: Collected

Dyeing Updates
local and international markets.

b) Develop an advanced
technology-based extraction
method that can derive natural
dye-indigo production from
indigofera tinctoria that is being
grown in Rangpur and Nilphamari
district.
c) Generate an innovative idea that
maximizes the optimum skills of
local people to address poverty,
unemployment and create a social
enterprise development using
natural resources.
d) Establish village industries
concept under a regional
Figure 3: Different grades of Indigo cakes. Courtesy: Collected
economic development approach.
In the Bangladesh market, indigo stole to the nature Bazar trade fair the world market. Right now
usages are very limited but in New Delhi in which they earned this enterprise has become a
increasing and only to some Local BDT 1.7 million. In recent years shareholding company of CARE
level organizations/companies Living blue has sold 1-ton indigo Bangladesh as Living Blue.
(such as Probortona, Aranya Dye to an international market.
However, most recently Super
craft, Arang, Kumudini and some Income from the large-scale indigo Enterprise Limited, a registered
others). All these organizations/ cultivation and harvesting for farm from Joint-stock company
companies are producing craft & commercial production in a social of Bangladesh government,
craft-based products for which enterprise can ensure monetary has already been started to
they have some sort of year-round benefits that go to savings, provide technical assistance to
demand for natural indigo dye insurance, medical expenses, old other interesting enterprises,
powder for their dyeing process. age pension, employment creation, organization, companies to setting
Indigo-dyed home décor and education, homestead repairs and up Indigo plant, dyeing facilities
fashion accessories are the new repaying debts, to ultimately exit on shibori, home décor and textile
product for Bangladeshi markets the cycle of poverty. design in East Africa and South
under SME of a new entrepreneur. East Asian countries. Very recently
NCVI- is one of the social
RMG buying house are also Super Enterprise has been started
enterprises is renowned for
interested to work on Indigo work with an international buyer
making indigo dye and dyed
dyeing materials, fabrics and yarn for indigo.
stuff produce in Bangladesh for
for their clients.
In International Markets; Indigo
dye is very famous in terms of
natural color and blue Jeans. Jeans
fabric’s cotton is very feasible for
indigo dye and a great demand
all over the world. Other than
Jeans, indigo-dyed products that
have bigger demand in high-end
markets especially in UK, USA,
France, Australia and Japan.
Hermes-France, Miwa Handprints
–Canada, Refushe-Kenya are also
the potential buyer of Bangladeshi
Indigo dyestuff and indigo dyed
products (produced in Living
Blue) since 2010. In 2008 & 2009,
NCVI has sold indigo-dyed silk and
Figure 4: Income from the large-scale indigo cultivation and harvesting for commercial
cotton scarves, kantha, shawl and
production in a social enterprise can ensure monetary benefits. Courtesy: Collected

S u s t a i n a b l e Wa s h i n g
Sustainable solutions for stone

and acid wash in denim industry
MM Uddin
Denim is a popular fabric all over

the world. According to research,
at any one time, approximately 50
percent of the global population
is wearing a pair of jeans and
at least 3.9 billion pairs of jeans
are produced globally per year.
The overall denim jeans market
worldwide was valued at US$
69.50 billion in 2018.
However, the color of the jeans

is mostly light blue and vintage
in appearance, which is a great
problem for denim lovers.
Industrial wash and finish is one of

the primary stages in the denim
supply chain that has become Figure 1: Industrial wash and finish is one of the primary stages in the denim supply chain
that has become a key focus for denim brands to reexamine their ecological impact.
a key focus for denim brands to
reexamine their ecological impact. rebellious youth of the time. buying a product at the right price.
It is well documented that during If the right price is missing then
In the past that in certain denim- sustainable jeans production will
the wash and finish process there
producing nations like China, be a dream, not a reality.
are traditionally vast amounts of
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc., toxic
water and chemicals used to bring
indigo sludge has entered rivers Saitex, a Vietnam-based cleanest
a faded look.
and streams, creating destruction denim factory in the world,
Chemicals like chlorine, potassium to the local environment. 98% of the water is recycled
permanganate (PP) and sodium Potassium permanganate (PP) and with the other 2% loss due to
hypochlorite are just a few of the acid washes are acid-based. evaporation. The factory supplies
hazardous chemicals used at this stage. to big players such as J Crew,
So, they need to be properly Everlane, Madewell, G Star Raw
Many casual garments are treated neutralized to bring jeans back to a and Outerknown uses a filtration
by a washing process—like stone- neutral PH otherwise the garments unit which ensures all the
washing of denim jeans – to will irritate consumers’ skin. contaminated water is recycled
give them a 'worn appearance'. and cleaned before it is funneled
Also, bleach/chlorine/hypochlorite
The blue denim is faded by the back into the space age laundry.
kills the good bacteria in
abrasive action of pumice stones
freshwater streams. It utilizes vertical washers, ozone
in stone-washing.
technology and lasers to finish
Traditional stone wash requires
Readymade vintage jeans have jeans, which is sustainable as well
70+ liters of water simply to
been the standard since the late as profitable.
eliminate sand residues, and to
60s when stone washing was first-
achieve acid wash with light base Big player Levi’s introduced FLX
come, however, nowadays, stone-
color it requires 2/3 baths. As the technology in 2017 and already
washed looks are the go-to for
bleaching agent needs rotation to they are seeing the return on
pretty much every style of jeans
work successfully. The root of the investments from the technology.
out there.
problem lies with brands who are The computer-driven laser
While stone offered a readymade developing jeans to be retailed technology uses nothing but
vintage appearance, acid wash below 50USD. energy to replicate localized wear
championed an even bolder and patterns without water, chemicals,
If brands want to drive sustainable
sharper contrast, which made it an or stones.
production, they need to consider
instant hit for punks, pop-stars and

S u s t a i n a b l e Wa s h i n g Brands Collaboration
The company aimed to roll out the

Reality At least 3.9 bn pairs of jeans are produced globally per
program across the brand's entire
year, most of these are produced unsustainably
denim range and go completely
Root of problem lies with brands who are developing
chemical-free by 2020.
jeans to be retailed below $50
There are some other alternatives To drive sustainable production, whole supply chain
Solution
to achieve that stonewash look needs to consider buying products at right price
for Boyish’s jeans-a sustainable Adopt technology that ensures sustainable wash in denim
women's denim line focused on production
quality, fit, and authentic washes. Fux
stone made from clay or polymers, Figure 2: Current root reality and solution to establish a sustainable wash in
denim production.
e-flow and nano enzyme bubble
technology as just some of the bulk production stonewash manufacturing process. However,
innovations available in the market. finishes by using simple spraying what needs to make sure
technology and enzyme on 2.3 sustainable washing is brands have
Of them, E-Flow and nano enzyme
used fabrics. The trick is to fill the to get into the topic and better
bubble technology are a form
machine with less water so that educate themselves.
of ozone technology, which
the weight of the wet garments
harnesses the natural bleaching Brands need to extend their hands
themselves create abrasion against
capabilities of ozone gas to to increase cooperation with
each other while spinning in the
give a range of overall bleach chemical companies and laundries
machine. The wash is also known
effects with substantially reduced to increase innovation to ensure a
as ‘bubble wash’.
environmental impact. sustainable denim wash process.
In conclusion, there are so many And brands working with factories
A leading international company
ways to ensure sustainable in developing countries need to
has been developing responsible
wash during the denim/jeans take responsibility.
H&M joins Lee for a sustainable

denim capsule collection
Stella Martinez
Swedish fashion apparel giant H&M clearly shows our efforts in and authenticity is at the heart
has exposed another partnership making fashion sustainable and of the Lee and H&M collection.
with denim heritage label Lee. transparent. From the use of Integrating knowledge and
The two household names have materials to water saving methods, passion when it comes to driving
teamed up for a sustainable we are pushing the boundaries and positive change in the apparel
denim collection that includes opening our doors for how you industry through commitment to
womenswear, menswear as well as can design and produce denim sustainability that this partnership
kidswear, and will be releasing at garments. And we will also for the will explore the best possible ways
the end of the month. first time will share data indicating to achieve their shared vision.
the water, C02 and energy impact
The capsule collection marks In producing circular denim
of each denim garment during the
H&M’s first 100% recycled cotton garments, Lee and H&M took a
production process,” said Pascal
jeans, and echos the Swedish holistic approach, looking at every
Brun, H&M’s Global Sustainability
label’s push for sustainability and stage of denim production starting
Manager about the collaboration.
innovation. The retailer will also with the fabric – including H&M’s first
share the Life Cycle Assessment The Lee and H&M collection will 100% recycled cotton jeans, made
(LCA) data on its website, which be available online and in store from 80% post-industrial waste and
indicates the water, CO2 and starting February 4. 20% post-consumer waste.
energy impact of each denim
To integrate women’s collection For both brands innovation is
garment from raw materials
with Lee’s heritage denim designs in our DNA, so we have relished
through the end of use.
for the H&M audience, the range the opportunity to bring these
“The Lee and H&M collaboration has taken inspiration from archives, products to a new audience.

Recycled Denim
Denim market to grow

globally with growing
demand for recycled
and new materials
SN Abdullah
One of the trendiest and popular

fashion items, denim market will
register a growth rate of 6.20%
for the forecast period of 2020
to 2027, according to a report by
databridgemarketresearch. Fueled
by the globally growing demand
for recycled denims which are
manufactured using plastics and
other materials is likely to create
new opportunity for the denim
market.
While another analysis by

psmarketresearch.com, the global
denim market valued at US$56.1
billion in 2017 and projected to
witness 5.8% CAGR by 2023.
Figure: Denim market growth will be fueled by the globally growing demand for recycled
denims.
While it says Asia-Pacific (APAC)
is anticipated to witness the and skinny jeans. concentrating on effectively
fastest growth in the market, controlling the consumption
during the forecast period. This These styles are gaining huge of chemicals, to reduce the
can be credited to the rising drive among consumers, especially degrading environmental effects,
disposable income of the people, the younger population, owing to by adopting sustainable practices,
easy availability of raw materials, their casual look and promotions which is raising the demand for
and increasing govt. initiatives through media. Additionally, denim recycling across the globe.
for manufacturing of products decorative denims with details
in the countries such as China, such as patches, laces, and The concept of sustainable denim
Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India. embroidery are also being rapidly clothing is not only gaining
sold in the denim market. popularity in developed nations,
Forces governing the denim such as the U.S. and Germany,
market Proper disposal of used clothes but also in developing countries,
and plastics is becoming a including China and India. Hence,
The fluctuating disposition of major concern for global the growing production of denim
consumers toward distressed, environmentalists. The use of large from plastic and other recyclable
cropped, and patched jeans is a quantities of hazardous chemicals materials is a major opportunity
key trend in the market. and high emissions of greenhouse for the denim market players.
gases during the production
People across the globe are of denim have been creating a Denim market segmentation
more and more focusing on negative impact on the climate. analysis
trending jeans, including those
with cropped hems, as well as Owing to this, denim The online distribution channel is
boyfriend jeans, two-tone jeans, manufacturers are now expected to register the fastest

Recycled Denim Brands Acquisition
growth in the denim market during of revenue, during the historical Major denim markets growth
the forecast period. This can be period (2013–2017). The growing by 2023 (CAGR)
attributed to the rapidly growing demand for superior-quality (In $bn)
20
e-commerce industry around the clothing, rising disposable income,
16.1
globe, with the populace inclining and increasing promotion of
15
toward online shopping. denimwear by celebrities are the
key factors driving the growth of
Additionally, customers now want 10
the market in the region.
convenient on-demand shopping,
via a platform that lets them However, the denim market in 5 2.7
choose from a variety of products. APAC is projected to witness the
Owing to this, the online market highest CAGR during the forecast 0
USA Germany
for denim clothing is expected to period, owing to the improving
witness robust growth, globally, in manufacturing process, swift VF Corporation, H & M Hennes &
the coming years. urbanization, bettering standard Mauritz AB, PVH Corp., Kering,
of living, increasing disposable Pepe Jeans, S.L., Bestseller A/S,
Men held the largest share in the income, and expanding working- and U.S. Polo Assn.
market in 2017, due to their high class population.
demand for rugged-material and In recent years, the major players
casual clothing. Recent strategic developments of in the global denim market have
major denim market players taken several strategic measures,
Geographical Analysis of the
such as product launches, mergers
Denim Market The denim market is fragmented
& acquisitions, partnerships, and
in nature. The key players
Globally, North America was the facility expansions, to strengthen
operating in the market include
largest market for denim, in terms their position in the industry.
Levi Strauss & Co., The Gap Inc.,
Artistic Milliners acquired LA denim factory to make a

state-of-the-art denim design and production hub
Hima Khar
Pakistani textile company Artistic ranges from large international

Milliners has acquired LA denim retailers to specialty premiums.
factory in Commerce, California,
Murtaza Ahmed, Founder SFI
with plans to invest in the facility
and Executive Director Artistic
to make it into a state-of-the-art
Milliners said, “The acquisition
denim design and production
gives us a strategic foothold in the
hub based on Supply Chain
USA, in a region with noteworthy
4.0 principles and 360 design
geographic and demographic
development solutions.
advantages.”
The new factory acquirement rises
California has historically been
Artistic Milliners’ global footprint
a vital cornerstone for the
and fast-tracks the company’s
international denim industry. It is
speed-to-market capabilities
estimated that in 2021, there will
while providing design-at-source
be a noteworthy rise in demand Figure: Artistic Milliners has acquired LA
at a time when global businesses denim factory in Commerce, California,
from international retailers and
have cut travel amid the Covid-19 with plans to invest in the facility to make
brands for near-shoring capacity, it into a state-of-the-art denim design and
pandemic. production hub. Courtesy: Collected
digital design services, and
Artistic Milliners is the first sustainable solutions.
become one of the topmost denim
Pakistani denim company, with an
“Our investment in this factor manufacturers in the world.
operational factory in Los Angeles,
gives us a launch platform in the
it is raising the profile of Pakistan Ranking third on the top 10 list
USA to meet the demand as we
as a sourcing destination. of Pakistani textile exporters in
build the factory for the future,”
the year 2017-2018, AM employs
The company said in a statement, added Murtaza.
19,860 people in 17 factories and
with the new name Star Fades
Artistic Milliners has developed mills in Korangi Karachi and other
International (SFI), the business
from a small retail store, industrial areas, with a total annual
endures providing finishing
established in Pakistan in 1949, to turnover of $256 million.
services to a customer roster that

Innovation Steering
Figure 1: Textile Today Associates, KRB International joins the journey of ‘Innovation Hub.’
Optima Kimya joins Textile

Today in the road of innovation
Staff Correspondent
Optima Kimya has teamed up to providing full support to human and garment industries are
innovate in the textile and garment health, environmental protection essential. However additional
industry by becoming one of the and occupational safety. development for a single
‘Textile Today Associates’ like product wastes an exceptional
Chromotex Auxi-Chem, Fatullah The conventional Textile amount of time and resources.
Dyeing & Calendering Mills Ltd. industries are one of the major Also, these lab exercises are
and RAAS Biotech Sdn. Bhd. industries in the world which surprisingly expensive. Many
causes environmental pollution clothing brands struggle with
Habib Monzur Hasan, Director of (20 percent of the world's overdevelopment, wasting time
KRB international sole agent of wastewater). Now, this is high and effort. For brands to transition
Optima Kimya and Tareq Amin, time for the Bangladesh textile from this, color is an important
Founder & CEO, Textile Today and garment industry to go for
signed an agreement on 7th sustainable, economical, efficient
January 2021 at KRB International and safe chemicals. Optima Multifunction wetting agent
Office premise at House 279 (level Kimya has come up to solve this
3), Road 3, Avenue 1, DOHS Mirpur, problem through proper research
Rapid wetting agent
Dhaka - 1216. and innovation. Kimya’s success
is based on responsible, seamless
Optima Kimya is a leader in communication strategies with Wetting, deaerating agent
specialized support that provides customers and employees, and the
a large portfolio of chemicals with judicious use of resources around Oil based anticreasing agent
a large number of applications the world.
and over 20 years of technical
knowledge. The company is Textile Today is an effective and Sequestering & iron chelating agent
working in the textile field of yarn efficient ‘Innovation Hub’ that
dyeing, woven dyeing, knit dyeing regularly supports and assists Mercerizing agent
and washing. innovates, and improves factory
suppliers, product suppliers,
Optima Kimya improves its Reduction cleaning agent
professionals etc.
manufactures consistently in
its high-tech R&D laboratories New developments in the textile Figure 2: Some major products of Kimya.

Innovation Steering Brands Collaboration
consideration, explains Dustin sector for customer needs with its assistance to Optima Kimya. Being
Boersox, DataColor’s textile and expert staff. The core philosophy a part of this 'Innovation Hub'
apparel market manager. Here, of “Optimum Chemistry” is the Textile Today Associates will help
Optima Kimya continues its principle that had been defining the platform to work effectively
activities such as manufacture, us and that guides our success and enable associates to place
R&D and quality control worldwide, dedicated to optimum their knowledge, communication,
laboratories research and storing in every part of our lives. and networking leverage on the
in the Corlu plant. Optima Kimya market as an innovation-driven
presents innovative solutions for Textile Today Innovation Hub business.
the problems faced in the textile is ready to offer all possible
Calik Denim Team up with Good American to

create jeans that ‘always fit’
Hima Khar
Prevalent American brand,

Good American, launched a new
sustainable collection of Turkish
mill Calik Denim.
Calik Denim and Good American
kicked off a collaboration: Always
Fits. The Good American collection
carries the legacy of “perfect fit”
with the most sustainable fabrics,
provided by Calik Denim.
Good American is working
towards a more sustainable long-
term future in reducing its impact
without sacrificing its superior fit
Figure: Good American, launched a new sustainable collection of Turkish mill Calik Denim.
and stretch. This includes using
ethically produced fabrications in meet the expectations of the with a look of washing effects,
its denim, eco-friendly packaging, responsible and conscious denim customers who wish to get clean
and environmentally safe washes. customer. look garments can use these
fabrics even as cut and sew.
The company aims to procure 90 Innovation meets sustainability
percent of its denim fabrics made For the rinse look, rinse+enzyme
With Selfsized, Calik Denim aims
from sustainable components by look and bleached-look fabrics;
to minimize the risk of buying
the end of 2021. Similarly, Calik water-saving amounts are 44
the wrong size jeans through
Denim, with its Passion for Life, percent, 15 percent and 32 percent,
e-commerce channels, which was
Passion for Denim sustainability respectively.
launched in the SS ’20 season.
strategy, focuses on the purpose The Selfsized concept amazed Furthermore, fabrics used in
of making a positive impact for a people with its unique feature that partnership between Good
better life. one single size jean can fit a wide American x Calik Denim have
Calik Denim is encouraged range of different sized wearers been specially developed. While
by its passion to become the perfectly due to its ultra-high it is almost impossible to achieve
leading denim brand that elasticity and cotton for maximum such high saving values in fabrics
triggers the sustainability-driven comfort and softness. with high elasticity; this has been
transformation in the industry. possible thanks to the technology
Selfsized fabrics are produced
specially developed for this project
Collaboration between these using Denethic, which is developed
by Calik Denim.
two companies on making the with a sustainable approach for
sustainably made, perfect fitting the whole supply chain of denim The Always Fits collection,
denim will make a great example garment manufacturing. Denethic launched in cooperation with Calik
to the industry by showing how technology offers rinse washed, Denim and Good American, can be
valuable partnerships are. The rinse+enzyme washed as well as purchased at www.goodamerican.
collection itself will have a lower bleached-look fabrics. Since the com and is coming soon to retail
environmental footprint and will fabrics are produced at the mill locations across the U.S.

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Cotton Price Analysis
Increased cotton price creating a

volatile scenario in textile industry
Sayed Abdullah
Globally cotton prices has been worldwide benchmark prices million), and Australia (-100,000
soaring after the initial collapse augmented. The NY March futures bales to 2.4 million). The present
due to Covid-19 shutdowns in contract climbed from 70 cents/ forecast for Pakistan calls for the
2020. Recently cotton prices lb to 74 cents/lb. Cotlook’s A Index lowest level of production since
soaring again due to less harvest rose from 76 to 80 cents/lb. 1983/84.
and the US embargo on Chinese
While the China Cotton Index Impact on Bangladesh textile industry
Xinxiang cotton and forced child
(CC Index 3128B) increased from
labor restriction, coupled with less The 30% increases in global cotton
100 to 102 cents/lb. In domestic
harvest in global cotton. prices have ultimately created a
terms, values climbed from 14,500
multifold complexity in readymade
According to the latest data of the to 14,700 RMB/ton. The RMB
garment (RMG) manufacturing
US Department of Agriculture, a strengthened against the USD,
countries like Bangladesh.
2.2 million cotton bale reduction from 6.60 to 6.53 RMB/USD.
Bangladesh being one of the top
to the global production forecast
Indian cotton prices (Shankar-6 cotton importing country in the
(to 113.9 million) and a 1.6 million
quality) increased from 69 to 71 world – it imports around 7 million
cotton bale increase to the global
cents/lb. In domestic terms, values bales of cotton annually from
consumption forecast (to 115.6
increased from 40,200 to 40,700 Africa, Brazil, USA, Pakistan, India,
million).
INR/candy. The Indian rupee was etc. In last 3 months per pound
The blend of a smaller cotton crop steady against the USD near 74 cotton price increased by 65 cents
and higher offtake caused the INR/USD. in the country.
forecast for 2020-21 concluding
In international terms, Pakistani Though spinning industry experts
stocks to drop 3.9 million cotton
prices decreased from 74 to 72 say the country has enough
bales to 97.5 million.
cents/lb. In domestic terms, prices stock of cotton for the apparel
Although this is a substantial
decrease relative to figures Cotton price increase comparison (price of per pound cotton)
suggested in previous months,
Countries Price in September 2019 Price in January 2020
the present estimation for cotton
Indian cotton $60-65 cents $86 cents
stocks remains very high by past
standards. Brazilian cotton $65-70 cents $93 cents
Not to mention, Covid-19 is still a African cotton $70-75 cents $95 cents
great threat to the global economy
eased from 9,700 to 9,500 PKR/ manufacturing country.
forcing. When Covid-19 hit forced
mound. The Pakistani rupee was
spinning mills to shut globally Khorshed Alam, Chairman, Little
steady against the USD near 159
cotton stocks climbed and, in the Star Spinning Mills Ltd. says, “If
PKR/USD.
years, surrounding the highest per pound cotton price is 93 to
levels of Chinese reserves (in In the US, due to the drought
2013/14 and 2014/15 global ending in West Texas and the series
stocks were 99.9 million and 106.8 of hurricanes in the growing 2.63 million
million) were warehoused supplies season, a reduction in the cotton bales from Africa
higher than they are expected to production estimate the U.S. had
be at the end of 2020/21. been expected for several months.
This month, the forecast for the
In the meantime, world mill-
American crop was lowered from
1.85 million
use is predicted to recover in bales from India
1.1 million bales to 15.9 million.
2020/21 (was 102.2 million bales
in 2019/20), but the projection of Numerous other countries also
115.6 million cotton bales is still saw cotton harvest expectations
below the volumes over 120 million decrease, and other notable
0.8 million
bales from USA
from 2017/18 and 2018/19. reductions were made for India
(-500,000 bales to 29.5 million),
Most worldwide benchmark prices Figure: Cotton import of Bangladesh in
Pakistan (-500,000 bales to 4.5 2019-20. Source: BTMA
Over the past month, most

ZDHC Updates Cotton Price Analysis
95 cents, then a kg of cotton Al-Haj Karim Textiles LTD said, advance. As delayed delivery of
will cost $2.05 for the spinners. “The backward linkage industry cotton and yarn will increase lead-
To make yarn from it, millers is passing a dark time during the time. Not to mention, the increase
need to remove wastage from it. coronavirus pandemic. The global of cost will surely eat up the
Which increases cost to $2.33. shipment cost has increased in little margin they already have,”
Additionally, manufacturing cost, fold. In addition, there is a huge Rashedul Hoque expressed.
bank interest, depreciation, energy container crisis at this moment due
If the cost of cotton fluctuates
bill, marketing cost, etc. add up the to backlog in many ports.”
regularly then it will be tough
cost. In total, Bangladeshi millers
“Currently China is booking a good for apparel manufacturers to
do not get any margin or profit.
number of containers. As they set a cost with buying houses.
Making it very difficult to survive in
are getting a lot of future export Adding that the total scenario is
this Covid-19 affected time.”
orders. Creating a big crisis for us.” very volatile, which can lead to a
So that to create a kg of yarn with collapse any time.
“As shipping cost is related to the
increased cost of cotton, millers
whole process, from importing “Overall, it will affect the whole
are paying $3.25 cents. Which was
raw materials, cotton, yarn, etc. backward linkage industry of
$2.60 even a month ago.
manufacturers cannot complete Bangladesh textile and apparel
Md. Rashedul Hoque, Asst. General orders on time. The scenario is manufacturing industry,” Rashedul
Manger (Marketing & Planning), worse for those who got order in Hoque added.
ZDHC releases Air Emissions Position Paper

ZDHC Story
ZDHC broadens its scope of work to address the

management of air emissions within the textile,
apparel, leather and footwear industry, in recognition of
the impact that air emissions of hazardous chemicals
may have in communities and the environment.
The ZDHC Air Emissions Position Paper is the
result of the collaborative effort that included
representatives from relevant stakeholder groups Figure: ZDHC Air Emissions Position Paper is the result of the
collaborative effort.
with the aim to minimise air pollution across the
textile, apparel, leather and footwear value chain. What is the timeline for actions to be taken?
“The release of this Air Emissions Position Paper 2021 - There is no immediate action needed for
is an important milestone for the Roadmap to Suppliers but to stay informed on the developments
Zero Programme because it addresses another of the air emissions project and take the opportunity
potential pathway of hazardous chemicals reaching to self-assess operations against the expectations
the environment” Scott Echols, Senior Director, outlined in the paper. During this year ZDHC
Roadmap to Zero Programme will work on developing a streamlined reporting
mechanism, monitoring requirements, and testing
What is the focus of the Air Emissions Position Paper?
that will allow this paper to transition into the ZDHC
This Paper focuses on two types of air emissions, Air Emissions Guidelines.
those air emissions generated in a facility related to
2022 - The aim of ZDHC is to develop and publish
its operations (combustions or other air emissions
the full Air Emissions Guidelines. Suppliers should
sources) and process operations air emissions
continue to self-assess operations against the
(related to production process, production line
expectations outlined in the Position Paper and
equipment and manufacturing processes), sharing
should prepare to implement the Air Emissions
aligned expectations and highlighting areas of
Guidelines in 2023.
opportunity. The aim of this paper is to build up the
needed understanding of air emissions management 2023 - Air Emissions Guidelines implementation will begin.
and best practices, and it should be implemented At this point, we would like to thank all Contributors
by brands and facilities to understand the gaps with and stakeholders that helped develop the Paper. This
current air emissions control and tracking efforts to document would not have been possible without the
prepare for the transition of this document to the dedication of our Contributors. In particular to the
ZDHC Air Emissions Guidelines. No new air testing is Task Team members, the team captain Joy Marsalla
described in the paper beyond those legally required. from Nike -instrumental to this work- and team
To support this release, webinars and training will co-captain Nasim Mullen from Lbrands. Thank you -
follow in the coming weeks. Your commitment and dedication made this possible!

Heartiest
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2019-20
to the top 25 teams of TTH 7th Season!
Project Name
Implementation of IoT with RFID based tracking

system in the garment production process
Project Supervisors
Industry Supervisor Industry Expert

Md. Hasib Uddin Anis Ansari
Chairman, Ex. Sr. General Manager
APS Group Operations, Ha-Meem Group
Transformation Leader
Md. Sadman Sakib
Bangladesh University of Textiles
Industry Supervisor Academic Supervisor
Md. Eousup Novee Mustafijur Rahman,
GM-HR & Strategy Asst. Prof., Dept. of
Factory Partner Textile Today Dyes and Chemical
Engineering, BUTEX
Project Name
Promoting sustainability by examining the possibility of using bio-

mordants in natural coloration using Teak dye (Natural extract)
Project Supervisors
Industry Supervisor
Md. Nuruzzaman
DGM, South West Composiet Ltd
Abu Sayed Rafi
Jashore University of
Science and Technology
Project Supervisor Academic Supervisor
MD. Rezaul Karim Md. Tarikul Islam
Lecturer, Port City Lecturer, Jashore
Factory Partner International University University of Science and
Technolog
All projects are supported by- Implemented by

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season
2019-20
Project Name
Creating interactive merged MRSL and RSL to meet buyers’ requirements,

while producing recent fashion demand from brands by AOP printing
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Monirul Alam
Executive Director
DYSIN-CHEM LTD
Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba
Moksudul Alam Solaiman Bin Ali
Sr. Manager (Marketing) at Lecturer, Dapartment of Wet
Factory Partner DYSIN-CHEM LTD Processing Engineering, BUTEX
Project Name
Developing jute-cotton blend yarn with mélange effect to

increase quality of yarn & reduce the cost in Rotor spinning
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert Industry Supervisor

Mohammad Shadekul Islam K.M Kashiful Hasan
Product Engineer at IKEA DGM, Mosharaf Composite
Supply AG Textile Mill Ltd
Tanvir Hossain
Md. Numan Bin Faruqe MD. SHARIF AHMED
Factory Partner (Senior Executive Bangladesh University of
Lab & QC Department) Textiles (BUTEX)
Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Limited

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Project Name
Comparative study between cationic cotton dyeing and

conventional dyeing: An approach towards sustainability
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Syed Iqbal Rizvi
Managing Director
Sameet Dye-Chem Ltd.
Ashik Abedin
Textile Engineering
College, Chattagram

Md. Rashedul Islam Kazi Sirajul Islam
Factory Partner GM (Knitting & Dyeing) Lecturer, Dyes and Chemicals
APS Group Engineering Department, BUTEX.
Project Name
Fully Fashion Knitwear Garments Design for Saree

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Ziaur Rahman
Senior Programmer (Jacquard),
Crown Exclusive Wear Ltd
Faujia Mushtari
Jashore University of Science
and Technology (JUST)
Israt Ahmed Habibur Rahman
Chief Instructor, Shima Seiki Assistant Professor, Department of
Factory Partner Showroom and Institute Textile Engineering, JUST
(Bangladesh)

7th Season Key Facts
(Up to Now)
40+ 1214 150+ 25

Campus Registered Experts Events
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8 114 60+ 96
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Project Name
Development of electrospun nanofibrous face mask from

recycled PET bottle using Electrospinning technique
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury
Director
Huetech Yarn Limited.
Md. Tanvir Hossain

Dhaka University of Engineering
& Technology
Md. Rashedul Islam Md. Ayub Ali
GM (Knitting & Dyeing) Asst. Prof. TE, Dhaka University of
Factory Partner APS Group Engineering & Technology
Project Name
Developing universal pre-heating process of stenters for

energy efficiency & machine performance
Project Supervisors
Industry Supervisor
Md. Hasib Uddin
Chairman,
APS Group
Sk. Mohammad Raafi

Md. Rashedul Islam Prof. Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema

GM (Knitting & Dyeing) Head of the Dept. of Environmental
Factory Partner
APS Group Science & Engineering, BUTEX

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Project Name
Developing a SOP for 100% micro polyester yarn

dyeing to improve RFT to 90%
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Md. Salauddin Sk
Technical Manager
Harris & Menuk
Md Akhtarujjaman
Bangladesh University
Of Textiles (BUTEX)
Md. Mijanur Rahman Mustafijur Rahman
AGM (Yarn Dyeing) Assistant Professor, Dyes and Chemicals
Factory Partner South West Composite Ltd. Engineering Department, BUTEX.
Project Name
Eliminating or minimizing white spot on dark shade

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert Industry Supervisor

Rahat Ullah Rashed Amitabh Biswas
Head of Technical Support AGM, Dyeing & Finishing
Taiwan Persotex Corporation HAMS Garments LTD.
MD. Asadullah AL Galib

Pabna Textile Engineering College

Md. Nazrul Amin Zahid Mahmud
Asst. Manager, Dyeing Lecturer, PTEC
Factory Partner HAMS Garments LTD.

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Minimizing the dirt spot and oil stain share rate in Defect Per
Hundred Unit (DHU) percentage of finished garments.
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Bhaskar Ranjan Saha
Managing Director
The Analyst Limited
Rajath Roy
Daffodil International
University
Mizanur Rahman Gazi Mst. Murshida Khatun
Factory Partner Executive Vice President Assistant Professor
RobinTex Bangladesh Ltd Daffodil International University
Project Name
Acetic Acid Manufacturing plan project from wastage/by products
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert Academic Supervisor

Md. Hasan Kajmir Mahmud Dr. Abu Mohammad Azmal Morshed
Director Assistant Professor
Transformation Leader South West Composite Ltd Department of Chemistry.BUTEX
Mushfiq Ahmed
Textile Engineering College
Zorargonj, Chattogram
Factory Partner

STB is an unique model to set Transformation Blueprint for
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Benchmark establishing on usage of process water in dyeing
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Md. Asif Ikram Sajib
Manager, Hongkong NICCA
Chemical Co, LTd.
Tanvir Ahammed
Textile Engineering College
Zorargonj, Chattagram

Amitabh Biswas Engr. Saifur Rahman,
Factory Partner Asst. General Manager , Assistant Professor, Textile Engineering
HAMS Dyeing College, Zorargonj, Chattagram
Project Name
Process minimization of knit garment dyeing by using the

nebulizing system on the E-flow machine
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Engr. Md. Nasir Ullah
Country Manager,
Officina+39
Mohammad Ishaque
Bangladesh University of
Textiles (BUTEX)
Engr. Sajedur Rahman Upama Nasrin Haq
Factory Partner Washing Head, Asst. Prof.
Epyllion Washing Ltd. Bangladesh University of Textiles.

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Developing electro spun cellulose acetate/chitosan membrane from

waste materials to filter textile wastewater
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Syful Alam Mallick
Compliance Manager, South Asia,
Auchan Retail International
Abdul Kader Jilane

Textile Engineering
College,Chittagong(CTEC)
Md. Wasiuzzaman Shohan A K M Monjurul Haque Nirjhar
Country Auditor/ Sr. Lecturer, National Institute of
Consultant, STS BD Textile Engineering & Research
Project Name
Resolving Phenolic yellowing problem

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Md. Salauddin Sk
Technical Manager
Harris & Menuk
Atiqur Rahman
Textile Engineering
College, Noakhali
Mr. Mahbub Alam Mohammad Maksudur Rahman
Sr. Vice President, Head Lecturer, Textile Engineering
Factory Partner of Dyeing Department College, Noakhali
Robintex Group

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Scope of using the functional properties of fabrics to

prevent the action of Covid -19 & other Viruses
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
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DGM, Noman Textile Mills Limited
Md Tanvirul Hasnat
National Institute of Textile
Engineering and Research
Academic Supervisor Academic Supervisor
Md. Mahbub Hasan Monjurul Haque
Factory Partners Associate Professor, Dept. of Senior Lecturer, Dept. of Textile
Textile Engineeing, NITER Engineeing, NITER
Project Name
Reduction of ETP load by using sustainable dyes

and chemicals in textile wet process
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert Industry Expert

Engr. Sahadat Hussain Md. Mahbub Alam
Senior Consultant & Trainer, CEO,
Sustainable Development Business Development &
Engineering, ERI Ltd. Operation, EPL Group
Antu Roy Chowdhury
European University of
Bangladesh

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Factory Partner DGM Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Engineering,
South West Composite Ltd European University of Bangladesh

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2019-20
Project Name
Crease Free dyeing at 1:6 Liquor Ratio

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
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Head of Technical Support
Taiwan Persotex Corporation
Md. Fazle Rabby

BGMEA University of
Fashion & Technology
Amitabh Biswas Most. Setara begum
Factory Partner Asst. General Manager , Assistant Professor & Head.
HAMS Dyeing Department of TE, BUFT
Project Name
Creating market demand for vortex yarn

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Abdul Wadud
CEO & Management Consultant,
TRANSFORM
Hasan Mazharul Haq

Bangladesh University Of
Textiles (BUTEX)
K.M Kashiful Hasan Md. Bashar Uddin
Factory Partner DGM, Mosharaf Composite Lecturer, Yarn Engineering
Textile Mills Ltd. Department, BUTEX

Heartiest
Congratulations
season
2019-20
Project Name
Selection of Right Cotton for a Spinning Mill

Project Supervisors
Industry Supervisor Industry Expert Academic Supervisor

K.M Kashiful Hasan Abdul Wadud Bashar Uddin
DGM, Mosharaf CEO & Management Lecturer, Department of Yarn
Transformation Leader Composite Textile Consultant Transform Engineering, BUTEX
Mill Ltd
Tofayel Ahsan Bilash
Bangladesh University Of Factory Partner
Textiles (BUTEX)
Project Name
Standardize the widthwide shrinkage and extension recovery in
variegated rib with knitted fabrics of 100% cotton with elastane
Project Supervisors
Academic Supervisor
Industry Supervisor Industry Expert
Zahid Mahmud
Mr. Mohd. Reaz Uddin Rahinur Islam Limon
Lecturer, Pabna Textile
AGM (Knitting) AGM (Knitting)
Engineering College
Hams Garments Limited Fakaruddin Textile ltd
Eakub Hossen Hridoy Factory Partner
Sheikh Kamal Textile
Engineering College
Project Name
Finding out an effective process to reduce re-dyeing for micro polyester yarn
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert Industry Supervisor Academic Supervisor

Md. Salauddin Sk Mijanur Rahman Maitry Bhattacharjee
Technical Manager-ARL, from Southwest Department Head of Textile
Harris & Menuk Chemicals Composite Ltd. Engineering, STEC.
(BD) Ltd.
Muhammad Zahidul Islam Sojol Factory Partner
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College

Heartiest
Congratulations
season
2019-20
Project Name
Developing an on time trims and accessories delivery procedure
Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Bhaskar Ranjan Saha
Managing Director
The Analyst Limited
Shakil Ahmed Sagar


MD Omar Faruk Ahammed Rezaul Karim Arshad
Factory Partner Technical Manager Bangladesh University of Textiles
4 Stich Knit Composite Ltd
Project Name
Jute fiber for Optical Frame (Eye Glass) production

Project Supervisors
Industry Expert
Shazedur Rahman Bulbul
CEO
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Saadjill Iftekhar
Daffodil International
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K.M. Kashiful Hasan Sumon Mozumder
Factory Partner DGM, Mosharaf Composite Assistant Professor
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Textile Today January 2021 Issue

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Textile Today January 2021 Issue

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BDT 200, USD 10 | www.textiletoday.com.

An Innovation Hub Year

Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion

See at page 27 See at page 19 See at page 13

Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence

See at page 31 See at page 87 See at page 23

Sciessent LLC Phone: 781.224.7100

Editor & Publisher

Published on 30th January 2021 by

The views expressed in the magazine

The first intelligent card: TC 19i

Driving business with knowledge

Antimicrobial, Agion Active, Sciessent Lava

and Sciessent Curb DWR product lines

See at page 31 See at page 87 See at page 23

12 Editorial 22-25 Top Story 32-33 BTMA Initiatives

14-17 Cover Story

Expediting regional cooperation in

BTMA's initiatives in pandemic to

34-36 Cover Plus

2021: Challenges before

18-21 Innovation Textile industry is turning Facilitating market access

29-30 Export Updates

Apparel Today 54-55 Fiber Today Denim Today

45-46 Green 63-66 Industry Best

What makes lotus silk the

Business transparency and

48-50 Order Trends 73-74 Recycled

How exporters can

According to recent TV news, Bangladesh's 30 Export Procedure

While we were trying to recover from the shock

Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 15

Legal protection to save

Special measures for factories

More govt. support

Figure: Reconstructing measures of textile & apparel in 2021

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

The readymade garment industry Furthermore, in the EU, we • Diversification

Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 17

2020’s top textile innovations

Given the challenges just pandemic. brands worldwide to over 1 billion

Figure 1: HeiQ Viroblock antiviral technology is used in protective masks.

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

less, some countries demand percent wood pulp and 40 percent

“Bio-nylon is positioned to originates from coastal land. Eastman, the producer of

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

Indian cotton yarn price going up till March 21

Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 21

Bangladesh is uniquely positioned

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

24 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

road, river) based multimodal erstwhile economies rated as supporting Bangladesh’s

Pakistan’s govt. has guaranteed to withdraw 5%

Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 25

Textile industry is turning

Fashion retail is moving fast to globally, according to economic Stepping up to sustainable

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

28 Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021

Bangladesh's apparel exports,

Bangladesh Textile Today | January 2021 29

products, which declined sharply. Besides, the production of woven

is risky for market within a shorter lead time.

It is now clearer. So, Apparels.