with
Patternmaking Basics:
The Skirt Sloper
SUPPLIES
• Awl
• Drafting curve and circles template
• Muslin
• Pattern paper and tag or poster board
• Regular and red pencils and eraser
• Scissors — paper and fabric
• Tape measure
• Tracing or carbon paper and tracing wheel
• Transparent ruler (2"x18" with grid)
• Transparent tape
• Pins and pattern weights
• Optional tools: Dressform; identifying stamps;
notcher; pattern hooks; pattern punch
PATTERN-DRAFTING ORDER OF OPERATIONS
1. Trace the front sloper.
2. Adjust length: Either bring the base up evenly or
lengthen the base evenly. Maintain base width.
3. Adjust waist: Raise or lower as desired.
4. Adjust side: Add an extension or come in for a
pencil line shape.
5. Now move on to the interior of the front. Add
pleats, insertions for flares, pockets, and any other
details in the interior of the skirt front.
6. Trace the back sloper.
7. Adjust the perimeter as for front steps 2-4.
8. Move to the interior of the back and draft as for
front or as desired.
9. True pattern pieces.
10. Add notches and grainlines.
11. Draft waistband, if needed.
12. Mock up the pattern in muslin or a fabric similar
to the fashion fabric. Make adjustments as
needed. Expect to make two to three mock-
ups before you are completely satisfied with an
average pattern—intricate or involved patterns
© Craftsy Craftsy.com
Suzy Furrer
What You'll Need
Supplies, Resources & Order of Operations
RESOURCES
Instructor's website: apparelartsproductions.com
Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's
Clothing by Suzy Furrer (Apparel Arts, 2008)
might mean up to ten mock-ups!
13. Draft facing and lining pieces once you are
completely satisfied with the fit and design.
14. Add seam and hem allowances to the final
pattern. True seam allowances by folding back on
seamlines and making sure allowances are flush
with the edges.
Every pattern piece should be marked with:
• Season
• Style number or name
• Piece within the pattern, e.g., front panel, pocket,
back facing
• Size
• Cut quantity in self, contrast, lining, interfacing,
etc., e.g., “2 – self; 2 – lining.”
Every pattern piece should include
• Grainline
• Notches to denote seam and hem allowances,
dart legs and matching points
• Awl punches to denote the base or top of a dart,
pocket placement, corners, and other interior
markings. Dart points should be punched ½"
inside the dart bulk. Circle the punch with red.
CONTINUED »
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 Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Sample Measurements & Calculations

RECORD OF MEASUREMENTS CALCULATION WORKSHEET

27½" + ½" ease = 28"

Name Size 8 Dress Form
28" ÷4= 7"
Waist Measurement
Date Front 7" + ¼" = 7¼"
Back 7" − ¼" = 6¾"
Waist 27½"
35 " + 1" ease = 36"
High Hip 35
High Hip Measurement 36 " ÷4= 9"
at a depth of 4½
at a depth of 4½ Front 9" + ¼" = 9¼"
Low Hip 37½
Back 9" − ¼" = 8¾"
at a depth of 8½
Low Hip Measurement 37½" + 1½" ease = 39"
Empire Height 28½
at a depth of 8½ 39" ÷4= 9¾"
at a height of 3
(Measure the widest part of the lower body and Front 9¾" + ¼" = 10"
Lowered Waistline 32 use that measurement, marking the depth.) Back 9¾" − ¼" = 9½"
at a depth of 2
28½" + ½" ease = 29"
Skirt Lengths Empire Measurement 29" ÷4= 7¼"
Right Side to Floor 40 at a height of 3 Front 7¼" + ¼" = 7½"
Left Side to Floor 40 Back 7¼" − ¼" = 7"
Above Knee 20 32" + 0" ease = 32"
Lowered Waistline Measurement
Knee Length 23 32" ÷4= 8"
at a depth of 2
Below Knee 25 Front 8" + ¼" = 8¼"
(No ease is added because a snug fit is need-
Ankle Length 37 ed to prevent the sirt from slipping down.) Back 8" − ¼" = 7¾"
Full Length 40 Skirt Length Measurement (If drafting a sloper, use 20") 20"

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 Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Measurements & Calculations

RECORD OF MEASUREMENTS CALCULATION WORKSHEET

+ ½" ease =
Name
÷4=
Waist Measurement
Date Front + ¼" =
Back − ¼" =
Waist
+ 1" ease =
High Hip
High Hip Measurement ÷4=
at a depth of
at a depth of Front + ¼" =
Low Hip
Back − ¼" =
at a depth of
Low Hip Measurement + 1½" ease =
Empire Height
at a depth of ÷4=
at a height of
(Measure the widest part of the lower body and Front + ¼" =
Lowered Waistline use that measurement, marking the depth.) Back − ¼" =
at a depth of
+ ½" ease =
Skirt Lengths Empire Measurement ÷4=
Right Side to Floor at a height of Front + ¼" =
Left Side to Floor Back − ¼" =
Above Knee + 0" ease =
Lowered Waistline Measurement
Knee Length ÷4=
at a depth of
Below Knee Front + ¼" =
(No ease is added because a snug fit is need-
Ankle Length ed to prevent the sirt from slipping down.) Back − ¼" =
Full Length Skirt Length Measurement (If drafting a sloper, use 20")

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 Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Reference Charts
EASE FOR SKIRTS SKIRT FRONT DART DISTANCE

CIRCLE FLARE SKIRT CHART

Measurement Ease Waist Dart Distance
Waist ½" 24" 3¾" One-quarter of
25" 37/8" waist measurement
High Hip 1" Amount to add
plus ease
Low Hip 1½" 26" 4"
6" 1½"
Empire ½" 27" 41/8"
6½" 15/8"
Lowered Waistline 0" 28" 4¼"
7" 1¾"
Skirt Length 0" 29" 43/8"
7½" 17/8"
30" 4½"
8" 2"
SKIRT FRONT DART WIDTHS 31" 45/8"
8½" 21/8"
32" 4¾"
This chart pertains to front dart widths only. 9" 2¼"
If in between, round down. 33" 4/"
7 8
9½" 23/8"
Difference between full 34" or more 5"
waist and low hip Dart Width 10" 2½"
measurements (with ease) 10½" 25/8"
DART LENGTH
14"-16" 1¼"
For every ½" over 10½", increase the chart
10"-13" 1" Dart Width Dart Length by ½". For every ½" smaller than 6", reduce
the chart by 1/8". Round up if the quotient
8"-9" ¾" /" 3"
38
does not fit neatly into the chart.
2"-7" /"
38
¾" 3½"
0"-1" No dart 1" 4"
1¼" 4½"

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 Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper with Instructor Name Section Title

Skirt Sloper Reference Diagrams

Front Back
W W

HH HH

CB
CF

LH LH

Name: Name:

Date: Date:
Side

Side

Base Base

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