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CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
Productivity is the burning issue in the textile industry. The loom shed efficiency is very
important in terms of profit of the textile mills. It means a small increase in productivity of a
loom shed will result in to considerable reduction of manufacturing cost. More importantly,
an increase in productivity on a loom will bring in additional on the extra fabric available.
For medium average mills, an increase of 2% in loom shed productivity can increase the
annual cash in – flow by Rs.6lakh or more.
Mainly in the loom shed department there are several factors which are responsible for the
productivity level. These factors are yarn quality, quality of yarn preparation, loom setting
and atmospheric conditions in the department. Again in other words above are the thrust
areas in the weaving department where, by controlling the process parameters and setting at
each stage the expected level of productivity will be achieved.
In weaving, the shed is the tempo2rary separation between upper and lower warp yarns
through which the weft is woven. The shed is created to make it easy to interlace the weft
into the warp and thus create woven fabric. Besides of weft insertion the shed formation is
one of the most important functional processes in weaving. The term shedding refers to the
action of creating a shed.
A shedding device is the device used to raise or open the shed. Creating the separation is
referred to as raising or opening the shed, while the reverse is known as lowering or closing
the shed.
A correct setting of the shed geometry determines the machines and fabric aspects. A wrong
setting of the shedding can results as the higher number of filling and warp stops means the
breakages will be increase and the proper setting can improve the productivity of the loom
This chapter is focus on effect of shed crossing timing on weaving performance , fabric faults
and loom performance the trails are conducted on same construction fabric but with different
settings the shed crossing variable are 299°, 310° and 322°
CHAPTER 2
PLAN OF WORK
Loom Productivity
CHAPTER 3
LITERATURE REVIEW
The Motion Forms “The Shed” by dividing the warp ends into two sheets, thus providing a
path for weft. This is done by raising or lowering heald frames. Shed Geometri and Shed
characteristics require a great consideration and precision because it is the zone in which the
yarns are converted into the fabric. The basic function of weaving are performed in this area.
Three types of shedding motions (opening) are available for different type of fabrics.
They are:
Tappet shedding
Dobby shedding
Jacquard shedding
3.2.1 Cam Shedding:
Cam shedding is also simple and inexpensive. A cam is a disk which has grooved or
conjugated edges which corresponds to the lifting plan.
The lifting plan controls which heald shafts are lifted. The disadvantage of cam shedding is
that when the woven design has to be changed the cams have to be rearranged to suit the new
design. Pattern design is also limited due to the amount of heald shaft the cams can control.
Dobby shedding is more complex than cam systems. The main advantage of dobby looms is
that more intricate designs can be produced. Older dobby looms were operated by wooden
lags with pegs, which rotated around a roller above the loom.
The pegs in the lags correspond to the lifting plan, which controls which harnesses are lifted.
Punched paper or plastic pattern cards can also be used. Recently modern dobby looms are
controlled via an electronic system. The disadvantage of dobby systems is that faults are
more likely to occur due to there complexity.
In jacquard weaving a device called a ‘jacquard’ selects and lifts the warp yarns individually.
This type of machine is used for larger more detailed patterns, where all or most of the yarns
in a repeat, move independently.
For designs that require the reproduction of freely drawn shapes, It is usually necessary for
each end in the repeat to be separated controlled. The jacquard machines are used for a wide
verity of purposes from tie to carpets. The most elaborated design is woven on an intricately
constructed loom called the jacquard loom and the weave of this fabric is called jacquard
weave.
There are single or double lift machines which use either mechanical or electronic systems,
using CAD to control the harness lifting and lowering. Modern jacquards are capable of
handling over 1200 harness cords which control the lifting and lowering of the warp yarns.
Unclear shed (Irregular Shed): Equal heald shaft lift and equal warp tension. In this
shed the height of 1st heald frame which is close to fell of the cloth is same as 2 nd and this
characteristics same for all heald frames in un-clear shed (Irregular Shed).
3.4Types of Shedding
The shedding mechanism is set according to the picking & beat-up mechanisms. Timing of
shedding is set with respect to reed position. In general there are three timings. These are:
Early shedding
Late shedding
the warp threads have already cross to form the next shed before the reed beat up so that last
pick inserted has no chance to slip back.
Fabric cover is improved, because during beat-up, the warp yarns are evenly
distributed.
It assists in clearing the shed while weaving fibrous warp like woolen& worsted. So
entanglements are avoided.
Heavy weft yarn can be easily inserted. So hard weaves like corkscrew weaves can be
woven.
Disadvantages:
As the warp yarns are open widely during beat-up, strain on the warp yarn is high.
Early shedding causes chaffing of warp yarn & end breakage may occur.
With late shedding healds are leveled at 275- 280 degrees. The motion may be so set that he
healds are leveled, the shed is closed when the crank are at point 11 or even at the beat –up
position. Such timings ease the strain on the warp threads as the increase in the warp tension
due to the opening of the opening of the shed does not coincide with the additional tension
brought about by a sudden impact of the reed against the cloth fell. Further, as the weft is
beaten up to the fell before the warp and weft yarns have not the chance to get inter-locked
and there is thus less strain on the yarn as the reed moves forward.
Late shedding allows the weft yarn to get beaten up before the shed has been properly
crossed. During beat-up opening the shed is minimum. So strain on the warp yarn is
low.
The path followed by the warp threads in an open shed is longer. The additional length
required for warp extension, as in many of the elastic textile material, or by the regulation of
the yarn delivery.
Form the above fig. the warp yarns are withstood the higher tension forces when the shed is
opened.
Form the above fig. tension acting on the warp yarn is constant but position of the cloth fell is
movable.
Using the longer back shed length is preferable to obtain a less degree of warp extension or
tension in the open shed, essential for silk weaving.
The shorter back shed length assists in separation of the upper and lower warp sheets and
formation of a slear shed, preferable for weaving fabrics hairy coarse yarns.
Size of shed is very critical. It should allow a secured weft insertion. The requirements of
shed opening are determined by the means of weft insertion and beat up motion. By
increasing the shed size, more insertion time will be available. However, the shed size cannot
be ultimately been increased, amongst other. The load on the warp end and jacquard harness
may not be too high. It is desirable to have a small shed opening in order to reduce the lift of
heald frames and therefore to reduce the stress on the warp. However, the magnitude of H is
mostly determined by the size of weft insertion device.
C: The depth of the shed at the front wall of the shuttle (the important dimension)
During the passage of the shuttle, B and D both vary because of the motion of the reed, and D
will also vary owing to the movement of the shuttle coinsides with the period of dwell.
Shed size can be expressed in terms of the front shed angle. The shed angle should be
optimum level that the projectile can be easily passed through the shed. Consequently, an
optimal setting will be depending on the warp yarn, weft yarn, machine speed the weave
pattern etc. are important factors. The shed size should may be as low as 15 to 18 degree on a
gripper projectile weaving machine. In general, the reduced shed may be used with the
smooth warps, for example, with the filament warps. It cannot be used with low grade warps,
because the sticking warp ends cannot be separated in a small shed. Shed angle should not
exceed 25 with very poor warps, because from the beat-up line.
Advantages:
Alternate tightening and slackening the warp threads produces a covered cloth.
Produce fine fabric (silk).
Used in hand loom.
Disadvantages:
More stress or tension on the top warp line and less tension on the bottom warp line.
More chance of breakage on top warp line.
Unequal warp tension produces poor quality fabric.
Loom speed/ weaving speed are slower.
Not possible to produce compact fabric.
More power consumption.
More time required.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
3. Open shed :
In this type of shed the heald frames move continuously from the top position to the bottom
position or vice-versa, unless some ends, as per design require to remain up or down for two
or more consecutive picks in following figure the first heald moves up and seconds move
down after the insertion of first pick. Then they remain stationary in their respective position
for second and third pick. On the fourth pick they moved again changing positions. This type
of shedding can be in tappet shedding, and double acting double lift dobbies.
Advantages :
In this type the healds that are required to remain stationary for two or more consecutive
picks at the bottom position remain at rest. The heald frames which are required to remain
stationary at the top position for more picks in succession, do not remain stationary but move
about half the distance of the depth of the shed and go back to their top position for the
formation of shed for the next pick.
Symmetric shedding
Asymmetric shedding
Asymmetric shedding means the angle from the top layer or bottom layer to the center line of
shed is different from each other is called Asymmetric shedding. Asymmetric shedding is
used to produce a heavy quality fabric. to from an Asymmetric shed Asymmetric cams are
used due to use of the Asymmetric cams one layer is made slack &this slack layer trap
(cover) the pick & when shed is cross then pick is firmly grip in shed during beat up pick
goes to fell of the cloth due to this action bumping of pick avoided.
Weaving resistance
3.8.1 Beat up force (F):
The force exerted by the reed onto the warp and cloth system during beat up the beat up force
must overcome because the force of beat up gives better result on the overcome beat-up than
under come beat-up. The resistance of warp ends under tensions open in front of the
penetrating weft thread. The frictional resistance between end and pick as the pick is pushed
through the warp sheet.
Different types of beat-up mechanisms have different abilities to transmit adequate impulses
of force to the weft beat-up. The impulse of force generated by the reed= Mass x Speed
Slay must also be able to transmit this quantity of motion to the fabric fell. It consumed for
the beat-up. The supplied impulse dependent on the beat-up angle in which the reed is in
contact with fabric fell
The beat-up angle is adjusted automatically by increasing the beat up zone so that equilibrium
is attained between the supplied and consumed impulse of force. Increase in no. of picks
cloth fell tends to advance against the direction of the reed beat-up increase beat-up zone and
beat-p angle (beat-p force).
Yarn tension on a single end ѱ becomes so acute that the weft would be squeezed out if it
were not restrained. Critical value for is determined by the coefficient of friction.
Thus the minimum pick spacing which can be obtained by beating on open shed is
determined by the coefficient of friction between weft and warp.
When beating on a crossed shed, γ is more nearly equal to α and there is smaller tendency for
the weft to be squeezed out. Hence closer pick spacing can be obtain.
α : Determined by the crimp levels, the yarn dimensions and pick spacin, the dimensions m
and l
T2 : The tension in the warp is affected by the beat-up, increases with the displacement of
cloth felland, the beat-up force is also a function of T2.
The condition under which the fabric is completely slack at beat up and If the displacement of
the cloth fell by the reed at beat up is quite large, the cloth tension at beat up will be reduced
to zero and the cloth will be moment quite slack This condition is known as bumping
condition.
It is most likely occur in weaving near the limiting value of the fractional weft cover. The
bumping condition is recognized by the noise that the cloth makes as it becomes taut again
when the reed moves back. This condition is likely to occur when the fractional weft cover
factor tends to attain its limiting value. Bumping also indicates a jammed fabric.
An increase in the basic warp tension increases the effectiveness of beat up and cloth can sustain a
larger displacement before it becomes slack. It is clear that, for any particular fabric and weaving
conditions, there will be a certain value of basic warp tension that will be sufficient to prevent
bumping. There is no reason to no apply a much higher warp tension than this, with the probability
of an increase in the warp breakage-rate. In weaving very hairy in cloths with weft covers, for
example, the minimum warp tension necessary to form a clear shed may be more than is required to
prevent bumping.
A suitable format for recording loom performance in terms of end breaks & other stops . such
a record of loom performance will be helpful in controlling productivity on looms in more
than one ways firstly a regular record of end breaks bring out need for any technological
adjustment that may have become necessary because of quality of yarn or seasonal changes
for ex. adjustment to be made in composition of the size mixing or the size pick up level.
Secondly such data will indicate if the quality of yarn is suitable for weaving a particular
fabric. If the end breakages rate remains very high even after taking proper corrective action
in the preparatory stages, then the quality of the yarn needs to be improved for the particular
sort to get satisfactory productivity.
Thirdly the data on end breakages rate when analyzed in conjunction with those obtain by
snap reading will bring out the need, if any, for training of worker. When loss in efficiency
due to weaver attending is more than that expected on the basis of end breakages rate the
conclusion is that the time taken to mend a break is higher than expected.
Another important use of the data would be to asses the need for changes in loom allocation.
The data can also be used to arrive at more objectionable allocation of sorts on a group of
looms run by one weaver for controlling.
CHAPTER 4
EXPERIMENTAL WORK
i. Warp CMPX
.`. Warp CMPX = Total no. of warp breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
Weft CMPX = Total no. of weft breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
Total CMPX = Total no. of breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
i. Warp CMPX
.`. Warp CMPX = Total no. of warp breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours
study
Weft CMPX = Total no. of weft breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
Total CMPX = Total no. of breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
i. Warp CMPX
.`. Warp CMPX = Total no. of warp breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours
study
Weft CMPX = Total no. of weft breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
Total CMPX = Total no. of breaks x 100000 / Total weft inserted in 4 hours study
CHAPTER 5
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
In graph 1. indicates that as the crossing timing increases the efficiency is also increase at
some extend and after the peak position efficiency goes decreases. At 322 shed crossing the
efficiency was 79% and at 299 the efficiency was 73% and efficiency was highest on 310 it
was 82%.
In 322° the fell of the cloth moves forward and more beat-up force act on the fell of the cloth
and due to this more vibrations of loom happens after every beat-up. And due to more load on
the warp yarns breaks and the loom efficiency goes down.
IN 299° shed crossing setting the fell of the cloth goes backside and the tension on warp yarn
goes down but the because of the change in distance of fell of cloth the shed angle gets
slightly lesser and due to change in shed angle in 299° shed crossing the weft breakage
increases. Hence the efficiency of the loom efficiency goes down.
In 310° shed crossing timing the efficiency was higher than other because on 310° setting the
load on warp yarn which was less than compare to 322° setting and the shed angle was also
more than 299° setting hence the 310° has more efficiency than 322° and 299°.
In graph 2, 3, 4. indicates that as the crossing timing increases the no. of breakages is also
increase at some extend and after the peak position no. of breakages goes decreases. At 322°
shed crossing the no. of breakages was 19 and at 299° the no. of breakages was 21 and no.
of breakages was low on 310° it was only 14.
In graph 5, 6, 7. Indicates that at the 322° the crossing timing the Warp breakage CMPX is
increases because the excess load on the warp yarns and on 299° the weft breakage CMPX
was more And on 310° the Breakages CMPX was less than other two parameters. At 310° the
total CMPX was 14.21 which is less than 322° and 299° which was 20.01 and 23.97
respectively.
In graph 8, 9, 10. indicates that as the crossing timing increases the breaks CMPX is also
decrease at some extend and after the peak position breaks CMPX goes increases. At 322
shed crossing the breaks CMPX was 20.01 and at 299 the breaks CMPX was 23.97 and
breaks CMPX was low on 310 it was only 14.21
CHAPTER 6
CONCLUSION
In loom shed department, there are lots and lots of reasons for warp breakages, weft
breakages, low Efficiency but the Shed Crossing timing is also important factor in increasing
the production. The breakages and Efficiency on same loom for different Shed crossing
timing’s as following.
Warp Breakage 16 8 6
Weft Breakage 3 6 15
Total Breakage 19 14 21
The Data shows that the Highest Efficiency is at 310° crossing, and also the total breakage
rate are also less than other 2 setting’s. In 322 0 crossing setting warp breakage rate is higher
and total breakage rate is also more than 310 0 crossing. In case of 2990 crossing weft
breakage rate is heigher and total breakage rate is also more hence efficiency of both 3220 and
2990 less than 3100 crossing setting.
CHAPTER 7
REFERENCES
Greenwood, K. & Cowhig, W. T. (1956), The Position of the Cloth Fell in Power Looms,
Importance of the Cloth Fell Position and Its Specification Methods - Elham Vatankhah
(Isfahan University of Technology , Iran)
Effect of Various Parameters on Starting Mark in Woven Fabric- Engr. Reashad Bin
Kabir*, Engr. Md. Sadiqur Rahman
The Dynamics of fabric forming on the loom at high weaving rates- Stanislav Nosek
Beat –up Mechanisms – Prof. Dr. Emel Onder , Ass. Prof. Dr, Omer Berk Berkalp
Adanur Sabit “Jet weaving”, “Book- Hand book of weaving”, CRC Press, Edition-First,
Reprint in India - 2009 , (P- 175-184,190,195-197)
Prof. Banerjee N.N., Book- Weaving Mechanism, Volume – I, Published by- Smt.Tandra
Banerjee and Apurba Banerjee Publications.