CIEM5390

Coastal Structures Design

Problem Set 2

The Hong Kong University of Science & Technology

Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering
CIEM5390
Problem Set 2

Solution
1. A two-dimensional wave tank has a still water depth of 1.9 m and a 1:20 plane slope
installed with its toe at the tank midpoint. The tank is 1 m wide. A wave generator
produces monochromatic waves that, when measured at a wave gage installed before the
toe of the slope, have a height of 0.5 m and a period of 2.8 s.
a) Determine the wave length, celerity, group celerity, energy, and energy density at
the wave gage.
b) At the instant that a wave crest passes the wave gage, determine the water particle
velocity and acceleration below the gage at mid depth.
c) Is the wave passing the gage a deep water wave? If not, what would the equivalent
deep water length, celerity, group celerity, energy, and energy density be?
Compare these values to those in part a.
d) Calculate the wave height as a function of distance along the slope from the toe to
the point at which the wave breaks. Assume that waves break when H = 0.78d.
Solution:
Tank length is not specified. Assume that the tank is sufficiently long for this problem to be
considered as a simple wave approaching an inclined surface.
Question 1a) From Table 2.2 of the textbook:
𝑔𝑇 2
L= 2𝜋
tanh(𝑘𝑑) = 𝐿0 tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑)

With some manipulation the above equation gives:

𝑑 𝑑 2𝜋𝑑
𝐿0
= 𝐿 tanh⁡( 𝐿
) (1.1)

𝑔𝑇 2 𝑑
Given d=1.9m,⁡𝐿0 = 2𝜋
= 12.24⁡𝑚 and 𝐿 = 0.16, d/L can be determined iteratively by equation
0
𝑑
(1.1) or by table (2.3) from the book by Kamphuis. The result is 𝐿 = 0.19. Thus L=10 m.

The wave speed can be determined with

𝑔𝐿
C=√ tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 3.6⁡𝑚/𝑠
2𝜋

Or
C = L/T = 10/2.8 = 3.6 m/s.
The group velocity is
𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.72 computed by the equation of n in the notes. Alternatively, you can use from
𝑑
table (2.3) from the book by Kamphuis which for 𝐿 = 0.16 gives n = 0.718.
0
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 = 0.72 ∗ 3.6 = 2.59⁡𝑚/𝑠

Here, the energy is defined as the energy per wave per unit channel width, i.e.
𝜌𝑔𝐻 2 𝐿
ℇ= 8
= 3066⁡J/m (i.e., energy per unit width)

And the energy density is the energy per unit length per unit channel width, i.e.
ℇ 𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
E=𝐿= 8
= 307⁡J/m2 (i.e., energy per unit width and unit length of wave)

Wave power:

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
𝑃 = 𝐶𝑔 𝐸 = 𝐶𝑔 = 2.59 ∗ 307 = 795⁡W/m
8
Question 1b) From Table 2.2
𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑢(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 )⁡cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.2)
𝜋𝐻 sinh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑤(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 ⁡)⁡sin⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.3)

At crest, cos(kx − ωt) = 1, sin(kx − ωt) = 0; at mid-depth, z = -d/2,

Thus, at crest,
𝜋𝐻 cosh(𝑘𝑑/2)
𝑢(𝑧 = −𝑑/2) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 ) = 0.44⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝑤(𝑧 = −𝑑/2) = 0
To compute acceleration, we differentiate equations (1.2) and (1.3) with respect to t:
𝑑𝑢 𝜕𝑢 𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
=𝜔 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 )⁡sin⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.4)
𝑑𝑤 𝜕𝑤 𝜋𝐻 sinh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= −𝜔 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 ⁡)⁡𝑐𝑜𝑠⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.5)

Substituting the values into (1.4) and (1.5) gives horizontal acceleration = 0 , and vertical
acceleration = −0.53𝑚/𝑠 2 .

Question 1c) The wave has d/L = 0.19 < 0.5, thus it is not deep water wave; it is intermediate.
𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 = 2𝜋
= 12.24⁡𝑚
𝐿0
𝐶0 = 𝑇
= 4.37⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝐶𝑔0 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.5 → 𝐶𝑔0 = 2.19⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝐻 𝐶 𝐻 0.5
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶𝑔0 = 0.9195 → 𝐻0 = 0.9195 = 0.9195 = 0.54⁡𝑚
𝑔

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2 𝐿0
Energy E⁡= 8
= 4377⁡𝐽/𝑚
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
Energy density 𝐸 = 8
= 357⁡𝐽/𝑚2

Note that, as expected, the power 𝐶0𝑔 𝐸 = 2.19 ∗ 357 = 782⁡J/(s ∙ m)

is equal to the power in intermediate water 𝐶𝑔 𝐸 = 2.59 ∗ 307 = 795⁡J/(s ∙ m)

The difference between the two is 2% due to round off errors.

Question 1d) The solution is tabulated below. x is the distance from the toe. Ks is the Shoaling
coefficient.

RHS of Ksi
𝐿𝑖 𝐶𝑖 Cgi
i 𝑥𝑖 (m) 𝑑𝑖 (m) L0 (m) 𝑑𝑖 /L0 𝑑𝑖 /𝐿𝑖 equation 𝑛𝑖 (w.r.t. 𝐻𝑖 (m) 𝐻𝑖 /𝑑𝑖
(m) (m/s) (m/s)
(1.1) x=0)

1 0 1.9 12.24 0.155 0.1875 0.155 10.13 3.62 0.73 2.62 1.000 0.500 0.26
2 2 1.8 12.24 0.147 0.1810 0.147 9.94 3.55 0.74 2.62 1.001 0.501 0.28
3 4 1.7 12.24 0.139 0.1740 0.139 9.77 3.49 0.75 2.61 1.002 0.501 0.29
4 6 1.6 12.24 0.131 0.1670 0.131 9.58 3.42 0.76 2.60 1.004 0.502 0.31
5 8 1.5 12.24 0.123 0.1610 0.123 9.32 3.34 0.77 2.58 1.009 0.504 0.34
6 10 1.4 12.24 0.114 0.1530 0.114 9.15 3.26 0.79 2.57 1.011 0.505 0.36
7 12 1.3 12.24 0.106 0.1460 0.106 8.90 3.17 0.80 2.54 1.016 0.508 0.39
8 14 1.2 12.24 0.098 0.1390 0.098 8.63 3.08 0.81 2.51 1.023 0.512 0.43
9 16 1.1 12.24 0.090 0.1320 0.090 8.33 2.97 0.83 2.46 1.032 0.516 0.47
10 18 1 12.24 0.082 0.1250 0.082 8.00 2.86 0.84 2.41 1.044 0.522 0.52
11 20 0.9 12.24 0.074 0.1180 0.074 7.63 2.74 0.85 2.34 1.058 0.529 0.59
12 22 0.8 12.24 0.065 0.1090 0.065 7.34 2.61 0.87 2.28 1.073 0.537 0.67
13 24 0.7 12.24 0.057 0.1010 0.057 6.93 2.46 0.89 2.19 1.095 0.548 0.78

𝐻𝑖+1 𝐶𝑔 ⁡
𝐾𝑠𝑖+1 =
𝐻0 ⁡
= √𝐶𝑔 0 for i = 0, 1,…..12
𝑖+1

2. An ocean bottom-mounted pressure sensor measures a reversing pressure as a train of

swells propagates past the sensor toward the shore. The pressure fluctuations have a 5.5
s period and vary from a maximum of 54.3 kN/m2 to a minimum of 41.2 kN/m2.
a) How deep is the pressure sensor (and bottom) below the still water level?
b) Determine the wave height, celerity, group celerity, energy, and power as it passes
the sensor.
c) As a wave crest is passing the sensor determine the water particle velocity and
acceleration at a point 1.5 m above the bottom.
d) Calculate the deep water celerity, length, group celerity, energy, and power if the
wave propagates along a line perpendicular to the shore without refracting.
e) The nearshore bottom slope is 1:30. Calculate and plot the wave height as a
function of position from deep water into the point at which the wave breaks.
Assume that waves break when H = 0.78d.
Solution:
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
Question 2a) From Table 2.2
cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑) 𝐻
𝑝(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = ⁡𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 𝜂);⁡𝐾𝑝 = cosh 𝑘𝑑
and η(x, t) = 2
cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)

The pressure is an oscillatory function formed by a cosine and a mean value. The water depth can
be computed considering the time average of pressure, forming the equation below:

𝑝𝑚𝑎𝑥 + ⁡ 𝑝𝑚𝑎𝑥 ⁡𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 𝜂 𝑚𝑎𝑥 ) + 𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 (−𝜂 𝑚𝑎𝑥 ))

= ⁡ = −ρgz
2 2
(54.3 + 41.2) ∗ 1000
= → z = −4.87
2
It is stated that the sensor is bed mounted so it is sensible to set d = −z = ⁡4.87⁡m

Question 2b) We solve iteratively L by equation (1.1), which is re-written below:

𝑑 𝑑 2𝜋𝑑
= tanh⁡( ) (1.1)
𝐿0 𝐿 𝐿

𝑔𝑇 2
Or more conveniently, we use table (2.3) from the book by Kamphuis. d=4.87m. ⁡𝐿0 = 2𝜋
=
𝑑 𝑑
47.23⁡𝑚. Thus, 𝐿0
= 0.1, and using table (2.3) gives 𝐿 = 0.141. Thus L=34.53 m.

The wave speed can be determined with

𝑔𝐿
C = √2𝜋 tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 6.19⁡𝑚/𝑠

Or
C = L/T = 34.79/5.5 = 6.27 m/s. The small discrepancy is due to error introduced by using the table.

The group velocity is 𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.81 computed by the equation of n in Table 2.2 (or table
(2.3) from the book by Kamphuis) → 𝐶𝑔 = 5.01⁡𝑚/𝑠

The wave height is computed by the pressure fluctuations

cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑) 𝐻
𝑝(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = ⁡𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 𝜂);⁡𝐾𝑝 = cosh 𝑘𝑑
and η(x, t) = 2
cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)

cos(kx − ωt) = 0 at crests; z = −d at the bottom. Thus we have

cosh(0) 𝐻
𝑝(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = ⁡𝜌𝑔 (𝑑 + cosh 𝑘𝑑 2 ) = 54300⁡𝑃𝑎 at crest (or maximum) → H=1.88 m

Here, the energy is defined as the energy per wave per unit channel width, i.e.
𝜌𝑔𝐻 2 𝐿
ℇ= 8
= 150.8⁡𝑘𝐽/𝑚

And the power is computed as

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
P = 𝐶𝑔 ( 8
) = 21.7⁡𝑘𝑊
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
Question 2c) Consider (1.2)-(1.5) in question 1, which is re-written below:
𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑢(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 )⁡cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.2)
𝜋𝐻 sinh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑤(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 ⁡)⁡sin⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.3)
𝑑𝑢 𝜕𝑢 𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
=𝜔 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 )⁡sin⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.4)
𝑑𝑤 𝜕𝑤 𝜋𝐻 sinh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
≈ = −𝜔 ( ⁡)⁡𝑐𝑜𝑠⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) (1.5)
𝑑𝑡 𝜕𝑡 𝑇 sinh 𝑘𝑑

At crest, cos(kx − ωt) = 1 , sin(kx − ωt) = 0 ; at 1.5m above the bottom, z = - 3.37 m.
Substituting the numbers, we have:
u = 1.16⁡m/s; v = 0;
𝑑𝑢 𝜕𝑢 𝑑𝑤 𝜕𝑤
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= 0; 𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= −0.336⁡𝑚/𝑠 2

Question 2d) The corresponding deep-water wave parameters are:

𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 = = 47.23⁡𝑚
2𝜋
𝐿0
𝐶0 = = 8.6⁡𝑚/𝑠
𝑇

𝐶𝑔0 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.5 → 𝐶𝑔0 = 4.3⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝐻 𝐶
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶𝑔0 = 0.93 → 𝐻0 = 2.02⁡𝑚
𝑔

𝜌𝑔𝐻02 𝐿0
Energy 𝐸𝑤 = 8
= 236.3⁡𝑘𝐽/𝑚

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
P = 𝐶𝑔 ( ) = 21.5⁡𝑘𝑊
8

Question 2e) The results are tabulated and plotted below. x is the location where the wave is
marginally deep-water wave. Say that we start at the limit between deep water and transition depth
d
which is 𝐿0
= 0.5. Since 𝐿0 = 47.23⁡𝑚 then the starting depth is: d = 0.5*47.23 = 23.62 m. That
is, d = 0.5*47.23 = 23.62 m at x = 0 m.

RHS of Ks
x (m) d (m) L0 (m) d/L0 d/L equation L (m) C (m/s) n Cg (m/s) (w.r.t. H (m) H/d
(1.1) x=0)
0 23.620 47.23 0.500 0.5000 0.498 47.24 8.57 0.51 4.39 1.000 2.020 0.09
50 21.953 47.23 0.465 0.4680 0.465 46.91 8.53 0.52 4.41 0.998 2.015 0.09
100 20.287 47.23 0.430 0.4340 0.430 46.74 8.51 0.52 4.45 0.993 2.005 0.10
150 18.620 47.23 0.394 0.3990 0.394 46.67 8.48 0.53 4.52 0.985 1.990 0.11
200 16.953 47.23 0.359 0.3660 0.359 46.32 8.42 0.55 4.60 0.977 1.973 0.12
250 15.287 47.23 0.324 0.3340 0.324 45.77 8.33 0.56 4.69 0.967 1.954 0.13
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
300 13.620 47.23 0.288 0.3010 0.288 45.25 8.22 0.59 4.82 0.954 1.928 0.14
350 11.953 47.23 0.253 0.2705 0.253 44.19 8.03 0.61 4.93 0.943 1.905 0.16
400 10.287 47.23 0.218 0.2400 0.218 42.86 7.79 0.65 5.05 0.932 1.883 0.18
450 8.620 47.23 0.183 0.2110 0.183 40.85 7.44 0.69 5.12 0.926 1.870 0.22
500 6.953 47.23 0.147 0.1810 0.147 38.42 6.99 0.74 5.14 0.923 1.865 0.27
550 5.287 47.23 0.112 0.1510 0.112 35.01 6.36 0.79 5.03 0.934 1.887 0.36
600 3.620 47.23 0.077 0.1200 0.077 30.17 5.48 0.85 4.66 0.970 1.959 0.54
630 2.620 47.23 0.055 0.0990 0.055 26.46 4.78 0.89 4.26 1.015 2.050 0.78

Wave amplitude
2.100
2.050
Wave amplitude (m)

2.000
1.950
1.900
1.850
1.800
1.750
1.700
0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700
x (m)

3. Offshore, in deep water, a wave gage measures the height and period of a train of waves
to be 2 m and 7.5 s, respectively. The wave train propagates toward the shore in a normal
direction without refracting. The nearshore bottom slope is 1:40. The wave passes the
outer end of a pier located in water 4.5 m deep.
a) Determine the wave length, celerity, group celerity, energy density, and power in
deep water.
b) Determine the wave length, height, celerity, group celerity, energy density, and
power at the end of the pier. Is this a deep, transitional or shallow water wave at
the end of the pier?
c) At the instant that a wave crest passes the end of the pier, what is the pressure at
a point 2 m below the still water level?
d) Calculate the horizontal components of the water particle velocity and
acceleration at this point 2 m below the still water level 1 s before the wave crest
passes the end of the pier.
e) At what water depth will the wave break? What will the wave height be as the
wave breaks? Assume that waves break when H = 0.78d.

Solution:
Question 3a) The wave parameters are
𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 = 2𝜋
= 87.82⁡𝑚
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
𝐿
𝐶0 = 0 = 11.71⁡𝑚/𝑠
𝑇

𝐶𝑔0 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.5 → 𝐶𝑔0 = 5.86⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
Energy density 𝐸 = 8
= 4905⁡J/m2

P = 𝐶𝑔 𝐸 = 28.7⁡𝑘𝑊

Question 3b)
Similar to questions 1 and 2, we solve L iteratively by equation (1.1) with d=4.5,⁡𝐿0 = 87.82⁡𝑚
𝑑 𝑑
and 𝐿0
= 0.0512. By iteration OR table (2.3) from the book by Kamphuis: 𝐿
= 0.095. Thus
L=47.37 m. The wave is a transitional wave (0.05 < d/L < 0.5).
The wave speed can be determined with

𝑔𝐿
C = √2𝜋 tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 6.29⁡𝑚/𝑠

The group velocity is

𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 with n = 0.9 computed by the equation of n in Table 2.2 (or table (2.3) from the book by
Kamphuis) → 𝐶𝑔 = 5.66⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝐻 𝐶 5.86
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶𝑔0 = √5.66 = 1.0175 → H= 2.035⁡𝑚
𝑔

𝜌𝑔𝐻 2
Energy density 𝐸 = 8
= 5078⁡𝐽 per unit width

P = 𝐶𝑔 𝐸 = 28.7⁡𝑘𝑊 per unit width

Question 3c) The pressure fluctuation is expressed as

cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑) 𝐻
𝑝(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = ⁡𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 𝜂);⁡𝐾𝑝 = and η(x, t) = cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
cosh 𝑘𝑑 2

cos(kx − ωt) = 0 at crests; z = −2⁡m; d = 4.5⁡m. Thus we have:

P = 28.5⁡kPa

Question 3d) At crest, kx − ωt 𝑐 = 0 (subscript “c” denotes at crest). At a time 1 s before the crest,
2𝜋 1
the phase is kx − ω(𝑡𝑐 − 1) = 𝜔 where ω = 𝑇
= 0.8378⁡(𝑠 ).

The horizontal velocity component is

𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
𝑢(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 )⁡cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜋𝐻 cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑)
= 𝑇
( sinh 𝑘𝑑 ) cos(𝜔) = 0.95⁡m/s
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
The horizontal acceleration is:
𝑑𝑢 𝜕𝑢
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= 0.89⁡𝑚/𝑠 2 .

Question 3e) Different d has to be attempted to obtain a d such that H/d=0.78. The final trial is
shown here.
𝑑
Assume d=2.8m → 𝐿 = 0.0318 → table (2.3) from the book by Kamphuis → d/L = 0.0737 →
0
L=37.99 m.

𝑔𝐿
C = √2𝜋 tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 5.07⁡𝑚/𝑠 → 𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 = 4.74⁡𝑚/𝑠.

𝐻 𝐶𝑔0
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶 = 1.1119 → H=2.22 m → H/d = 0.79 (close enough to 0.78. If H/d is not close enough
𝑔

to 0.78, choose another d and try again.)

Therefore the wave breaks at d=2.8m.

4. A wave gage mounted on the seaward end of a pier where the water depth is 6 m, measures
a wave having H=2.3 m and T=7.1 s. This wave is one of a train of waves that is travelling
normal to the shore without refracting. The bottom slope is 1:30.
a) Determine the deep water wave height and energy.
b) Determine the wave height and water depth where the wave breaks. Assume that
waves breaks when H = 0.78d.
c) What are the values of the water particle pressure, velocity and acceleration 1.7
m above the bottom 1.3 seconds after the wave crest passes the gage?
Solution:
Question 4a) (1.1)
𝑔𝑇 2 𝑑
Given d=6 m,⁡𝐿0 = 2𝜋
= 78.71⁡𝑚 and 𝐿0
= 0.0761, then iteration (or table (2.3) from the book
𝑑
by Kamphuis): 𝐿
= 0.1196. Thus L=50.17 m.

The wave speed can be determined with

𝑔𝐿
C = √2𝜋 tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 7.06⁡𝑚/𝑠

The group velocity is

𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶 with 𝑛 = 0.85 computed by the equation of n in Table 2.2 (or table (2.3) from the book
by Kamphuis)→ 𝐶𝑔 = 6.01⁡𝑚/𝑠

Then we compute the wave height H at deep water.

𝑔𝑇
𝐶0 = = 11.09⁡𝑚/𝑠
2𝜋

𝐶𝑔0 = 𝑛𝐶 = 5.545⁡𝑚/𝑠
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
𝐻 𝐶
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶𝑔0 = 0.9605 → 𝐻0 = 2.39⁡𝑚
𝑔

𝜌𝑔𝐻02 𝐿0
Energy 𝐸𝑤 = 8
= 551.3⁡𝑘𝐽/𝑚

Question 4b) Different d has to be attempted to obtain a d such that H/d=0.78. The final trial is
shown here.
Assume d=3.2m → use equation (1.1) → d/L = 0.0841 → L=38.05 m

𝑔𝐿
C=√ tanh⁡(𝑘𝑑) = 5.36⁡𝑚/𝑠 → 𝐶𝑔 = 4.92⁡𝑚/𝑠.
2𝜋

𝐻 𝐶𝑔0
𝐻0
= √ 𝐶 = 1.06 → H=2.54 m → H/d = 0.79 (close enough to 0.78. If H/d is not close enough to
𝑔

0.78, choose another d and try again.)

Therefore the wave breaks at d=3.2m.

Question 4c) At crest, kx − ωt 𝑐 = 0 (subscript “c” denotes at crest). At a time 1.3 s after the crest,
2𝜋 1
the phase is kx − ω(𝑡𝑐 + 1.3) = −1.3𝜔 where ω = = 0.885⁡( ).
𝑇 𝑠

The pressure fluctuation is expressed as

cosh 𝑘(𝑧+𝑑) 𝐻
𝑝(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = ⁡𝜌𝑔(−𝑧 + 𝐾𝑝 𝜂);⁡𝐾𝑝 = cosh 𝑘𝑑
and η(x, t) = 2
cos⁡(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)

cos(kx − ωt) = cos⁡(1.3ω) = 0.408; z = −4.3⁡m; d = 6⁡m. Thus we have:

P = 45.8⁡kPa
From equation (1.2)-(1.5) in question 1; cos(kx − ωt) = cos⁡(1.3ω) = 0.408 and sin(kx − ωt) =
sin(1.3ω) = −0.913, we have:
u = 0.52⁡m/s; v = −0.24⁡m/s;
𝑑𝑢 𝜕𝑢 𝑑𝑤 𝜕𝑤
𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= −1.02⁡𝑚/𝑠 2 ; 𝑑𝑡
≈ 𝜕𝑡
= −0.0956⁡𝑚/𝑠 2

Question 5: A wave train is observed approaching a coast that has straight parallel nearshore
bottom contours that are oriented in a north-south direction. Where the water depth is 5 m
the wave crests are observed to form an angle of 9° with the shoreline (waves from the
southwest) and the wave period is measured to be 7.3 s. What is the incident wave direction
in deep water? If the measured wave height at the 5 m depth is 2.2 m, what is the deep water
wave height?

𝑔𝑇 2
The wave length in deep water is 𝐿0 = 2𝜋
= 83.20⁡𝑚
𝑑 5
𝐿0
= 83.20 = 0.0601
CIEM5390
Coastal Structures Design
Problem Set 2
𝑑
Check the table: 𝐿 = 0.104; thus, 𝐿 = 48.08⁡𝑚 (𝑛 = 0.880)

The wave number:

2𝜋
𝑘= = 0.1307
𝐿
2𝜋
𝑘0 = = 0.0755
𝐿0
Therefore,
𝑘0 sin(𝛼0 ) = 𝑘sin(𝛼)
0.0755sin⁡(𝛼0 ) = 0.1307sin⁡(9°)
𝛼0 = 15.7°

cos⁡(𝛼 )
The refraction coefficient is: 𝐾𝑟 = √ cos⁡(𝛼)0 = 0.9747

The wave speed in the deep water is:

𝑔𝑇
𝐶0 = = 11.40⁡𝑚/𝑠
2𝜋
The group velocity in the deep water is:
𝐶𝑔0 = 0.5𝐶0 = 5.70⁡𝑚/𝑠

The current wave speed is:

𝐿
𝐶 = = 6.59⁡𝑚/𝑠
𝑇
The current group velocity is:
𝐶𝑔 = 0.88𝐶 = 5.80⁡𝑚/𝑠

𝐶
The shoaling coefficient is: 𝐾𝑠 = √ 𝐶𝑔0 = 0.9913
𝑔

𝐻
= 𝐾𝑟 𝐾𝑠
𝐻0
Therefore, 𝐻0 = 2.28⁡𝑚