LESSON ELIMINATING DARTS

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Acquired knowledge on how to eliminate the darts;
2. Understand the concepts on how to eliminate darts in draping fabrics.

LEARNING CONTENT

Eliminating Darts
Garments m ay be fitted to the body without darts. Gathers, pleats, tuck and
seams can all serve as excess materials in shaping the flat fabric to the curves of
the human form. However, garments often flow over the body, fitting easily without
the use of any apparent fitting devices.
It needs skill to do in distributing the ease into the armhole and shoulder
area and by shrinking and shaping the fabric whenever possible, darts do not need
to be used to fit the fabric.
This method is not suitable for fabrics with non-shrink or permanent-press
finishes. However, knits and other stretch fabrics can easily be molded to the body,
and a wide range of linen, skills cottons and shrinkable woolens respond to careful
shaping and handling. Loosely woven fabrics can be molded more easily than
firmly woven fabrics.
When planning to fit a garment without dart, draping
in the fabric of the finished garment is best. Either of two
methods may be used.
A. First Method
1. Distribute the ease, and pin it into place.
2. Pin style tape over the shoulder seam and
armhole. Baste it into place.
3. Baste along the area where the excess fullness
disappears.
4. Remove the fabric from the dress form.
5. Shrink out any excess fullness using steam.
6. Use a press cloth for woolens and other fabrics
that are easily marked by the iron.
 B. Second Method – This method is best for production purposes.
1. Distribute the ease, and pin it into place. Mark
the seams, and trim away any excess fabric.
2. Pin a piece of muslin smoothly over the area
to be molded. Mark the seams, and trim away
all excess muslin.
3. Remove the fabric and muslin from the dress
form.
4. At this point, before molding the shape into the
fabric, remove the muslin from the fabric and
flatten the fabric. Transfer the fabric and
muslin pattern to paper. This paper pattern will
be used to cut duplicates of the original when
they are needed.
5. Return the fabric carefully to the dress form,
shaping the ease as before. Baste the muslin
to the fabric; do not disturb the ease.
6. Remove the fabric from the dress form.
7. Work on the wrong side of the fabric (the muslin must be underneath),
and shrink out the excess fullness using steam.

REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-e187301311.html
February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-making-
e186946068.html February 10, 2021