NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY

Basic Education Department

Module in

DRESSMAKING 10

MODULE 1: Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies Skirts

PART C
Draft Basic/Block Pattern
Cut Pattern

Prepared by: ANNA LIZA S. GUZMAN-ANNO

Teacher

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CONTENT: PRODUCE LADIES SKIRTS

CONTENT STANDARDS: The learner demonstrates understanding on the principles

of designing and sewing of ladies skirts.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS: The learner plan, design and sew ladies skirts.

LEARNING COMPETENCIES: Draft and cut pattern for ladies skirts.

1.3 Draft basic/block pattern
1.4 Cut pattern

MODULE 1: DRAFT BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN

CUT PATTERN

At the end of the lesson, the students will be able to:

a. define block/basic pattern;
b. list down the measurements needed in drafting block pattern of
skirt;
c. draft the block pattern of skirt; and
d. cut the final patterns with seam allowance in accordance with the
customers specifications.

Words to Study
• Draft – a pattern sketch made by following the body measurements
• Pattern – are devices used by dressmakers as guide when cutting an article
or garment
• IMC – stands for Individual Measurement Chart
• Drafting – an engineering type method based on a set of body
measurement
• Measurement –foundation of pattern drafting
• Perpendicular line –composed of two lines meeting in a right angle
• Drafted pattern – made to order using individual’s measurement
• Commercial pattern – made using standard measurement of average
women

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HOW DO YOU USE THIS MODULES?

Before starting the module, I want you to set aside other tasks
that will disturb you while enjoying the lessons. Read the simple
instructions below to successfully enjoy the objectives of this kit. Have
fun!

1. Follow carefully all the contents and instructions indicated in every

page of this module.
2. Write on your notebook the concepts about the lessons. Writing
enhances learning, that is important to develop and keep in mind.
3. Perform all the provided activities in the module.
4. Analyze conceptually the posttest and apply what you have learned.
5. Enjoy studying!

INTRODUCTION:

The basic or block pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for
which flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just
enough ease for movement and comfort. Pattern making is a bridge function
between design and production.

In drafting pattern, it involves the measurements derived from sizing

systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation pattern or design patterns.

Checkpoint 1. LET’S SEE WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Let us determine how much you already know about the block pattern by
challenging yourself in answering the following activity.

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Direction: Read the following items carefully and write your answers on the
space provided.

1. Enumerate the tools needed in drafting a pattern.

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

2. List down the body measurements needed in drafting skirt?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

3. What drafting tool is used in drafting pattern?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

4. What is a block pattern?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

5. What are the two types of patterns?

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

FOUNDATION PATTERN

Perfect fit of garments is the outcome of accurate measurements and of the

Dressmaker’s technique of drafting pattern as well as designing pattern. A foundation
pattern also referred to as a block pattern, basic pattern, master pattern, or a “sloper”
is a perfectly plain pattern which fits the individual and which conforms to today’s
silhouette.

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Principles of Pattern Making

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of
fabric to conform to one or more curves of the feminine figure because the figure must
be free to assume many different positions, to walk, to sit or run, the pattern is
designed with that thought in mind also. The perfectly design garment should be
equally beautiful when the wearer is standing or sitting or in motion. Clothing which is
designed for some certain purpose, such as skating or swimming must be functionally
designed either its purpose in mind. Such clothing may be so designed as to give the
figure greatest beauty while in motion.

The study of pattern making involves a combination of 3 BASIC FACTORS:

1. Technical- methods of procedure for making the pattern with the use of the
modern block system. These steps of procedure as common to the making of
almost every pattern with a little careful study and practice they are easily
mastered and become the foundation of all pattern with a little careful study and
practice they are easily mastered and become the foundation of all pattern
making.

2. Craftsmanship- is an essential to good pattern designing. It is the ability to do

something neatly, the capable use of the hands to procedure any article. To
some people this may be a natural trait. In others this desire for perfection must
be cultivated. But it may be acquired through constant practice and painstaking
effort. The pattern designer must learn to work with speed and accuracy. A
perfectly rendered pattern may become the basis for cutting hundreds of
garments in one operation.

3. Artistry- in pattern designing is clearly revealed in this muslin proof. At the

stage the designer sees his paper pattern design actually draped upon the curves
of the model form or the individual. His artistic sense will be manifested in well
proportion lines, in carefully placed darts, in the spacing between pleats and
tucks. An artistic pattern maker is paid well for his talent. He may take badly
proportioned sketch for a good idea, and through his artistic judgement, he may
produce a pattern for a garment which will be a great improvement on the
original idea.

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Characteristics of a Basic Pattern
1. Simple lacks details of individual design
2. Has one control darts
3. No seams, hems or extra fullness added

Purposes of making a Basic Pattern

1. To test if you look the measurement accurate
2. For economy
3. For accuracy

Ways of Making Basic Pattern

1. By draping
2. By drafting body measurement which have been carefully taken from individual
3. No modifying patterns of hand pattern

Two classes of patterns

1. Drafted pattern made by using measurements taken from an individual.
2. Commercial pattern made by using standard measurement of average woman.

Drafted Pattern Commercial Pattern

Advantages: Advantages:
1. They are used to block pattern for 1. An in experienced person may be able
their dresses one desires. to make a satisfactory garment by
2. They can be used to test and alter carefully following the directions on a
commercial pattern commercial pattern.
3. They diminished or eliminate fitting 2. One may have a figure that a certain
problems as they are more accurate. made of commercial pattern will fit
with only slight alteration or more at
all.
3. No time is wasted for drafting the
pattern.
Disadvantages: Disadvantages:
1. Drafting pattern is a complicated 1. When buying commercial pattern,
mechanical process which takes too one’s choice is limited to the available
much time to be practiced used for design.
every garment. 2. They lack originality and individuality
2. Drafting are based on one person and as they are designed to suit the task
cannot be used for another. of the majority.
3. It is important to work out a new 3. Proportion cannot be corrected for all
draft, each time there is a decided because design is made to the so-

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change in the current style. called standard individual.

4. Drafting may be too mechanical for 4. Abnormalities cannot be taken cared
modern ways. of because it is based on a standard
person
5. Much time may be wasted in
searching for pattern.

Activity 1: Direction: Read the items carefully and give the best answer
that corresponds to the following questions.

1. What are the three basic factors that is involve in pattern making?
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

2. Is it necessary for you to draft the pattern first before cutting or you lay-out it in
a fabric? Yes/No. Why?
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

3. If you are a dressmaker, which pattern would you like most to use? Is it the
drafted pattern or the commercial pattern? Why?
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

4. Give two advantages of commercial pattern.

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

5. Give two disadvantages of Drafted pattern.

_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

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Before proceeding on the procedures of drafting a

block pattern of skirt, it is necessary for us to know the
different styles of skirt but basically, we will be focusing on
one style with regards to drafting of pattern.

Styles of Skirt

Skirt is a free hanging part of an outer garment or undergarment extending

from the waist down to a particular length of the garment.
Ladies skirts are of different styles, types and shapes. The names of the skirt
signify its shape or design. They are worn to cover the lower part of the body. A
dressmaker can make any style and design on the skirt in different ways based on the
figure of the client. However, be careful in wearing skirt which are only suitable for
some specific blouses or tops. There are few basic categories of styles of skirt:

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Straight skirt - referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no
flare or fullness at the hem or waistline. It is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight,
narrow cut line. Generally, the hem falls to, or just below the knee and is tailored
for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil.

Short Straight Skirt is a skirt style just above the knee and it gives a flattering
effect to the wearer. However, there are super short straight skirt such as the
micro-mini, which are becoming to those who have slim and long- legged
figures.

Long Straight Skirt is best when they end to the part of the legs that begins to
taper.

A-Line/ Flared Skirt is a skirt fuller at the hem than at the waist and probably
the best style for most women. Its silhouette is narrower at the top, flaring
gently wider toward the bottom thereby resembling the letter. It may be fitted at
the waist, high hip, and full hip. It works well on women with small waist and
good for those with full-hipped figures.

Gored Skirt is a style of skirt consists of four, six, eight or more gores shaped
to flare from waist to hem. This is very classic, and is always in fashion. It’s one
of the most flattering styles. Its vertical lines create an illusion of height and
slimness. A gored skirt can be either straight or A- line, depending on the
contours of the gores. For a slim woman, a gored style which is fitted at the
waist and hips and flares at the hem line is best suited. While A-line is best for
you, if the skirt with gores flare from waist or high hip which is emphasized by
the shaped and curvy gores.

Pleated/Tucked Skirt is a type of skirt which has pleats that create refined
vertical line while softening the figure. Skirt with all around pleats are best for
slim, narrow-hipped figures.

a. A Box pleated skirt – a double pleat having two upper folds facing in
opposite directions and two under folds pressed toward each other.

b. Fix box pleated – a flat double pleat made by folding under the fabric on
the other side of it.

c. Knife pleated skirt – a sharply creased narrow pleat, usually one of a

series folded in the same direction.

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d. Accordion pleated skirt – a series of narrow, evenly spaced parallel

pleats with alternating raised and recessed folds set into skirt usually by a
commercial pleating machine.

Gathered Skirt usually gathers at the waist and visually adds weight and bulk
to any figure.

Other types of skirts:

1. Sheath – a figure-hugging dress with a narrow tapering skirt

2. Pant skirt – a long skirt that resembles the style of pants.
3. Semi-circular skirt – skirt made half the amount of fabric used in circular skirt.
4. Circular skirt – Skirt made in circular shape, often by use of gores, and hanging
in unbroken ripples from waist to hem; also made from a fabric circle.
5. Buttoned straight skirt – long skirt with buttons down at the center.
6. Sarong – a loose-fitting skirt like garment formed by wrapping a strip of cloth
around the lower part of the body, worn by both men and women in the Malay
Archipelago And certain islands of the Pacific Ocean.

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7. Peplum skirt – is a short, gathered, slightly flared strip of fabric attached at the
8. waist of a woman’s blouse, jacket, skirt or dress.
9. Wrap around skirt – a skirt made to fold around or across the body so that
one side of the garment overlaps the other forming the closure.
10. Suit skirt – a skirt that comes along with a suit.
11. Flounced skirt – a skirt consisting of a strip gathered and sewed on by its
upper edge around the skirt, and left hanging.
12. Draped skirt – an A-line skirt with extra upward ruffled fabric on both sides
usually used as a semi-gown skirt.

Checkpoint 2. Identification.
Direction: Name the following types of skirts below.

1. ______________________ 2.______________________

3.______________________ 4. ______________________ 5. ______________________

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Front and Back Block Pattern of Skirt

The skirt is the portion of the garment, which is essentially physical in character.
It is a garment covering the body below the waistline. The silhouette of the entire
costume is largely determined by the cut of the skirt. It covers the hips and the limbs of
the wearer.

Tools and materials: Tape Measure, Pencil, Pattern Paper, L-square and Hip Curve
Measurements needed: Waist, Hip Depth, Hips, Skirt Length and Apex Distance
Procedures: Drafting the Front Block Pattern of Skirt

Front Block Pattern of Skirt

1. Draw a foundation line. Mark A 6. a) Shape Point D-E with a hip curve
intersection as Point A. and Square down Point E using a
straight edge. Intersection is Point F.

2. Point A- B is Hip depth measurement. b) Point A- G is 3 ½ inches. Then,

square down Point.

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c) Point A-C is skirt length measurement. 7. Point G-H is 5.

5 ½ inches

d) Extend Point B and C sideward. 8. Point G-I is 3/8 inch as well as Point
G- J. Connect Point I-H and Point J-H.

e) a) Point A- D is ¼ waist measurement 9. Point A- K is ½ inch measurement.

plus 1 ½ inch Connect point D-K with a hip curve.

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b) Point B-E is ¼ hip measurement plus ¼ 10. Point C-L is ¾ inch measurement.
inch. Then connect Point F-K with a hip curve.

Back Block Pattern of Skirt

Procedures: Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt

(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

FRONT

1. Extend all horizontal lines from the Front Pattern. Draw

perpendicular line. Mark intersection as Point 1,2 and 3.

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(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

1
4

¼ waist measurement + 1 ½ inch.

2

FRONT

2. Point 1-4 is ¼ waist measurement plus 1 ½ inch or same

as Point A-D from the front.

(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

1
4

2 5

FRONT ¼ hip measurement

+ ¼ inch.

3 6

3. Point 2-5 is ¼ hip measurement plus ¼ inch or same as Point B-E.

Connect Point 4-5 using a Hip curve. Then square down Point 5 using
a straight edge. Mark intersection as Point 6.

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(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)
1 7
4

3 ½ inches

2 8 5

FRONT

3 6

4. Measure 3 ½ inches sideward from Point 1- 7. Square down

Point 7-8, measure 6 inches downward.

(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

1 7
9 10 4

2 8 5

FRONT

3 6

5. Point 7-9 is 3/8 inch as well as Point 7-10. Connect Point 9-8
and Point 10-8 with a straight edge.

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(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

6. Point 1- 11 is ½ inch. Then connect Point 4-11 with a hip

curve.

(Use the Front Pattern as basis in Drafting the Back Block Pattern of Skirt.)

Finished back block pattern.

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▪ The foundation pattern is a perfectly plain one-piece dress or

waist fitted to the figure as dictated by the current style. It is
based in the measurement of one individual.
▪ A foundation pattern is a guide or basis in the construction and
manipulation of flat pattern designing.
▪ Pattern drafting can be done well if you use the proper tools and
follow the step-by-step procedure.
▪ Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns
 Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement.
Use L- square.
 Use the aid of a hip curve if necessary.
 Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.

ASSIGNMENT: This time, let’s see how much you have learned from the
lesson regarding drafting block pattern of skirt.

Direction: Draft the block pattern of skirt using the following

measurement. Make sure to use the reduced measurement. Record yourself
while doing the task showing the processes on how to draft the block
pattern of skirt. (Read rubric on the next page for the task.)

Measurements Needed:

Waist- 24 ÷ 4 =
Hip 2- 34 ÷4 =
Hip Depth – 9 Skirt Length – 25

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Criteria 5 3 1 Score
1. Use of Tools Tools were Lack of one tool, Lack of two or more
complete, some were tools, some were
appropriate appropriately and appropriate and not
and correctly correctly used. correctly used.
used.
2. Procedure Used the Used the correct Failed to use the
correct method. correct method.
method. Procedures partly Procedures not
Procedures followed. followed.
correctly
followed.
3. Pattern All pattern Some pattern All pattern details
details were details were were not drafted
correctly inaccurately correctly and
measured and drafted. accurately.
accurately
drafted.
4. Speed Finished the Finished the Finished the pattern
pattern ahead pattern on time. more than the allotted
of time. time.

Resources: You may read the following articles for more readings on
planning a garment design.
▪ Pictures were taken from Google.com
▪ Stitch and Design (Learning Module in Dressmaking and Tailoring-
Technology and Livelihood Education by: Ines Alcantara-De Guzman,
PhD)
▪

Job well done, Northwesternian!

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