Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Introduction......................................................... 4
Zanzibar (Unguja) Maps........................................ 7
Arriving and Leaving Zanzibar............................... 9
Tanzania (Zanzibar) Visa..................................... 11
Warnings & Safety Precautions........................... 12
Taking Photos and Videos................................... 14
Cost of Traveling in Zanzibar............................... 16
Zanzibar Food - 10 Dishes To Try......................... 19
10 Experiences You Can Have in Zanzibar............ 30
Stone Town........................................................ 41
Why go to Stone Town?............................................................42
Top Things To Do in Stone Town................................................43
Where to Stay in Stone Town....................................................47
Great Restaurants in Stone Town..............................................50
Best Beaches in Zanzibar.................................... 59
Nungwi Travel Guide.......................................... 61
Why Go to Nungwi?.................................................................62
Getting to Nungwi....................................................................63
Where to Stay in Nungwi..........................................................64
Top Things To do In Nungwi......................................................67
Food in Nungwi........................................................................69
Kendwa Travel Guide.......................................... 71
Matemwe Travel Guide...................................... 74
Why Go to Matemwe?..............................................................75
How to Get to Matemwe..........................................................76
I dreamt about visiting Zanzibar, being able to experience the mix of cul-
tures, explore the narrow lanes of Stone Town, and sample the delicious
coastal cuisine.
Pictures of pristine turquoise waters and white sand kept me inspired, and
I knew I had to visit eventually.
My first trip to Zanzibar was with my family, and we really only spent time
in Stone Town before returning to Dar Es Salaam.
Stone Town was fascinating, but I didn’t get to see much by way of the
www.migrationology.com | Google Map | Go to Table of Contents 4
beaches. And on top of that, I didn’t have a clue which beach to go to -
Zanzibar (Unguja) is a decent sized island.
Back to Zanzibar…
On my latest trip to Tanzania, this
time with my wife, I decided we
needed to go back to Zanzibar, and
see as much of the island as we
could.
I hope this guide will help you decide where to go, what to see, and what
to eat when you visit Zanzibar.
The Challenge…
One of the challenges of visiting Zanzibar is that it can be hard to decide
which town or beach you want to go to.
The goal of researching and writing this Zanzibar travel guide for food lov-
ers was not only just to eat (my favorite activity in the world), but to figure
out the pros and cons of each of the major town destinations on the island
Though it’s an island, it’s still big enough to the point where you have to
decide where to go, and which destination will best suit your interests
when you’re there – are you going for a honeymoon? a family vacation? a
diving holiday? a beach-bum backpacking trip? or to explore the food and
culture?
I hope you have an amazing time in Zanzibar and I know you’ll have en-
riching travel and food memories throughout your visit.
Let’s keep in touch so we can share more delicious food from around the
world:
YouTube food videos
Instagram
Twitter
Facebook
Also, please let me know if you have any questions, concerns, or sugges-
tions. E-mail: migrationology@gmail.com.
Thanks again,
- Mark Wiens
Disclaimer:
Some of the hotels I mentioned in this guide, I stayed at for free, but I
only received complimentary accommodation because I contacted them
and wanted to include them in my guide. That being said, all opinions and
thoughts written in this guide are my own. Additionally, within this guide,
there are some affiliate links. As an example, for a few of the hotels, if
you make a booking through the link provided, I’ll get a small commission.
Thank you very much for your continued support. – Mark Wiens
Unguja is the main island (and the island this guide is all about) and it’s
the island that’s often referred to when someone just mentions “Zanzibar.”
On my latest visit to Zanzibar I took a flight with Precision Air and a round
trip ticket cost just $80.
Zanzibar Exit Fees: Keep in mind that upon leaving Zanzibar by air you’ll
need to have US Dollars readily available to pay the airport tax.
Domestic flights: $11 per person
International flights: $48 per person
They are pretty strict, so make sure you have the money to pay or you
may not be able to leave.
In Dar Es Salaam, it’s best to purchase your ferry ticket a day ahead of time,
especially in the peak travel season or around local holidays. The Dar Es Sa-
laam passenger ferry terminal is located on the waterfront in downtown, right
off Sokoine Dr.
Azam Marine is one of the best companies that offers ferry service to Zanzibar.
They have a relatively new fleet, and the Kilimanjaro series of ferries are pretty
decent and modern.
From Dar, ferries depart at 7 am, 9:30 am, 12:30 pm, and 3:45 pm. Rates for
non-residents are from $35 – $40 one way. Check out their website for more
information and you may also be able to book online: http://www.azammarine.
com/
If you choose to take the ferry in one direction and fly the other direction, you
should take the ferry from Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar instead of vice-versa.
The return journey to the mainland can sometimes be very rough. That being
said, if you are prone to seasickness, you may want to avoid the ferry alto-
gether and take the flight, not to mention it’s almost the same price and much
quicker, and less of a hassle.
If you come by ferry from Dar Es Salaam, you will already have a Tanza-
nia visa, in which case you don’t need anything extra when you arrive in
Zanzibar. You do need a valid passport, which you have anyways, and
occasionally you’ll have to fill out an entry card (sometimes not), but you
don’t need anything extra (this is just to monitor tourism).
Same goes for domestic flights from other parts of Tanzania. You just ar-
rive to the airport and can head straight out without any extras. The last
time I flew into Zanzibar from Dar Es Salaam, I didn’t even need to fill out
an entry card (so it just depends on how immigration is feeling that day).
• Fill out tourist visa application form (you’ll need an address in Zanzibar
like the hotel you’ll be staying at, so have all that information available).
Applications are either available online or at the airport once you arrive.
• Fill out your arrival card available at the airport (they might give it to
you on the plane)
• Passport that’s still valid for at least the next 6 months
• $100 (this is for US citizens, may be less or the same for your country).
Make sure the dollars are crisp and dated 2006 or newer.
Note: Also make sure you are up to date on your vaccines, especially
Yellow Fever.
The first step is to check with your embassy and also the current news about
what’s going on. An example would be to check the current travel advisory on
http://travel.state.gov/.
There have been a few reports of criminal activity such as rape and a small
acid attack in Zanzibar. But all in all, Zanzibar at the moment is a relatively
safe and stable place in Africa.
On a reality level, let’s go over a few things to keep in mind when you’re actu-
ally in Zanzibar.
Most of the time theft in Zanzibar is non-violent, meaning more along the lines
of pickpocketing.
But at the same time, it’s best to use discretion when carrying valuables
around on the street. If you carry around a DSLR camera, it’s normally fine,
just know your risks, be attentive, and be prepared.
Some stretches of beach, particularly in the Nungwi area, when you get away
from hotels, are known for theft.
Lonely tourists walking down the beach carrying big cameras and cash can be
attacked by thugs that jump out from hiding in the rocks.
So the main thing to learn here is that you should not really walk down the
beach carrying anything you’re too attached too.
And number two, when you’re walking along the beach, try to walk with a
group, walk a little ways away from the shore and rocks, and pay attention to
your surroundings.
Most hotel rooms, at least starting from the mid-range options, normally have a
safe deposit box.
Be sure to lock your valuables, even your laptop, in the safe before heading
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out. In more budget guest houses, they occasionally have safe boxes at the
front desk where you can store your belongings before you head out.
For the most part in Zanzibar, utilize common sense, like DON’T leave your
bag on the beach unattended and go for a quick dip in the ocean (even if it’s
just for one minute), and you should be fine.
Also, I would recommend just taking it easy, and not trying to dress or look
over the top luxury.
As a final personal note, my wife and I traveled to Zanzibar for two weeks and
we trekked all around the island taking local transportation and walking a lot.
She and I both felt quite comfortable without many safety concerns.
Note: As a tip, when I do need to carry a lot of money or valuables (like after
going to the ATM or transferring hotels) I carry most of my cash and credit
cards in an “in the pants wallet” (click here to see what I mean). I also carry
a normal wallet in my front pocket where I keep about $10 worth of money at
any given time.
Overall, throughout Stone Town and the beach villages, you are free to
take photos of just about everything (but read the people section below) –
like buildings, beaches, landmarks, etc.
In the beach villages kids will often come up to you asking for a photo,
then occasionally after you take the photo, they will then extend their
hands for money.
I don’t think it’s a good idea to give them money. We don’t want to encourage
them to keep doing this. Instead you can tell them “no money,” from the start
– before you ever take a photo. Once you say that, many of the kids are just
happy to have a photo and then see themselves on the LCD screen.
Accommodation and food, plus activities like diving, are usually the main
expenses on any trip to the island. The most budget places to stay, are
really not great quality, and for mid-range accommodation the costs really
add up.
That being said, there are some cheaper options, and there are ways to
get by on a budget, which I will share with you throughout this guide.
Overall Budget:
Low Budget: About $50 – $75 per person per day
Mid-range: $75 – $150 per person per day
Luxury: $150 and up, per person per day
Focus on the things you really want to do, and spend your money on
those. If you’re a lover of history, spend your money on going to the mu-
seum and seeing the ruins in Stone Town, but if not, you may be able to
skip them.
Visit Zanzibar during peak season and you could easily pay twice as
much on accommodation as you would during low season.
Also, during low season you have more flexibility to bargain, as rooms are
empty. So at a hotel for instance, you could either show up, or contact
them ahead of time and ask for a discount.
These are just estimates, some hotels have their own schedule of low
and high season, and pricing system.
The spices from Middle Eastern and Indian cooking, paired with the won-
derful natural ingredients and seafood from Zanzibar, makes Zanzibar
food so delicious.
Here are 10 different foods and snacks that you should eat in Zanzibar.
Biryani
Biryani, with origins in the Middle East and parts of India, is also one of
the most famous dishes to eat in Zanzibar.
The rice is cooked in a variety of spices, and then paired together with a
meat or fish curry, that always accompanies the rice.
As opposed to pilau (like below), biryani is the style where the rice and
curry dishes are cooked separately and then combined together to make
the dish complete.
Pilau Rice
Unlike biryani, where the rice and dish are cooked separately, pilau
normally intends that the rice and meat and spices are all combined
and cooked together. So it’s a bit drier than biryani (as there’s no curry
sauce), but it also tends to be a little more spice flavored than biryani.
This is what the technical difference is, however the rules are stretched in
Zanzibar, and you can often get pilau with a piece of deep fried fish (obvi-
ously not cooked with the rice).
Both biryani and pilau are excellent, and you should definitely try them
both to see which one you prefer. I like them both equally, and can’t pick
a favorite, so I normally just order 2 plates!
On the eastern beaches of Zanzibar, you’ll often find people searching for
octopus trapped in coral rock pools when the tide goes down. They then
will often beat the octopus on a rock to tenderize it.
Slices of octopus are normally cooked in a blend of rich spices like tur-
meric, coriander, and then simmered in a think coconut cream gravy. The
result is nothing short of marvelous. Octopus curry is easily one of my
favorite things to eat in Zanzibar.
Urojo (mix)
In mainland Tanzania, they call it Zanzibar Mix, but on the island they call
it urojo – and to my understanding, they are basically the same dish.
It’s a mishmash of a dish, a unique creation, that begins with bhajias and
other crispy fritters, all mingled in a curry gravy and topped with more
crispy fritters.
It’s sort of like the ultimate Tanzanian Zanzibari junk food in a bowl, and
you should definitely give it a try.
The dough is usually cut into a triangular shape, then deep fried until it
turns dark golden brown, and usually enjoyed with a hot and sweet cup of
chai.
You’ll find mandazis everywhere from sit down restaurants to street food
stalls where they often sit in glass cabinets waiting to be purchased.
There are all sorts of other random deep fried treats to snack on in Zanzi-
bar such as: samosas (a triangle of fried dough usually filled with meat or
vegetables), vitumbua (rice flour coconut cake), among others.
Zanzibar Pizza
I have no idea what the origins of this rather bizarre and tasty concoction
of ingredients is, but it is famous throughout the island, especially at the
Forodhani night market in Stone Town.
They basically take a small ball of dough, thin it out and start frying it on
a hot pan surface. Then goes in whatever ingredients you asked for – like
chicken or beef or fish – and then a mixture of peppers and onions, and
egg then gets poured into the middle of the dough.
The final step is to add some mayonnaise and processed happy cow
cheese to the mix, and fold up the Zanzibar pizza (video) into a rectangle.
Mishkaki
For a delicious meat snack, usually either chicken or beef, grab a few
skewers of mishkaki.
The sticks of mishkaki are great to eat for a meal, and in Zanzibar, espe-
cially around the streets of Stone Town, you’ll find them grilling them up in
the late afternoon.
The octopus is usually fried as well, diced into bite sized pieces, and
served on a piece of yesterdays newspaper along with some chunks of
fried cassava (like a starchy potato).
Once you get your street food snack, you can either sprinkle on some
salt, or get a squirt of the chili tomato sauce that’s often provided.
Chips Mayai
Comfort food at its finest would describe this popular east African style
French fries (chips) omelet.
The French fries are first deep fried, then tossed into a skillet with a cou-
ple of eggs, and fried into a circular omelet. The result is far from anything
remotely healthy, but I would have to say that it’s quite tasty.
I like to eat my chips mayai with some extra chilies, kachumbari (toma-
toes and onions), and a douse of tomato sauce to make things tangy.
Durian
One of the world’s most unique and amazing fruits is available, during
season, in Zanzibar.
Living in Thailand, I have become quite obsessed with the king of fruits,
and there’s nothing more enjoyable for myself than being able to taste a
durian in every country possible.
In this section of the guide, I’ve highlighted ten of the most common ac-
tivities throughout the island of Zanzibar, but this is by no means an ex-
hausted list.
Some of these activities are best arranged from either Stone Town or the
East Coast beaches like Jambiani.
Relax on a Beach
Overall, one of the top reasons people
visit Zanzibar is to do nothing more
than relax on a beach.
Jozani Forest
It’s not the most impressive nature
reserve in the world, but if you like
nature, and if you want to see the rare
red colobus monkeys up close and
personal, Jozani forest is worth a visit.
They do swim fast and it’s not a guarantee that you will see them (though
it’s pretty likely), but if you’re interested in dolphins, this is a must.
Tours from Stone Town normally cost $30 – $45 per person.
Prison Island
Also known as Changuu Island, this
small island is just over 5 kilometers
off the coast of Stone Town. The is-
land was formerly used as a prison
for slaves who misbehaved, and later
it became a quarantine island for the
sick. Today, you can take a tour of the
island, see the ruins from the prison,
and also check out the colony of giant
tortoises, a gift originally from the Sey-
chelles.
The East Coast, with its steady wind and nice beaches, is one of the
world’s premiere kitesurfing destinations.
The town is a great place to visit in order to learn about the history of the
island, visit museums, explore the narrow lanes of the ancient town, and
find local Zanzibar restaurants.
If you like to eat, Stone Town provides by far the best local style Zanzibari
food on the island, in my opinion.
Everyone that travels to Zanzibar should either stay for a few days, or if
staying at a different beach, should at least come to explore Stone Town
for a day trip away from the beach.
2. House of Wonders
The House of Wonders, dominat-
ing the central oceanfront near
the Forodhani gardens, is one of
the most recognizable structures
in Stone Town. It was formerly a
palace, built in 1883 by the second
Sultan of Zanzibar, Barghash bin
Said. Now the House of Wonders
is a museum showcasing the his-
tory and culture of the island. Over-
all, I prefer the Palace Museum,
but if you want to learn all you can
about the history of Zanzibar, go
for it.
Hours: 9 am – 6 pm daily | Price:
5,000 TZS ($2.92)
Price: Free
8. Darajani Market
Just outside the narrow lanes of
Stone Town is the lively Darajani
Market. This is the place where
nearly all types of food supplies
and ingredients from around the
island are traded and sold. Giant
stalks of plantains, stacks of cas-
sava, and spices like cardamom,
cinnamon, turmeric, and cloves are
all represented. There’s a large
section of the market dedicated to
fresh meat and also a fish market
where you can check out the auc-
tion and occasionally spot huge
sailfish and tuna.
While there are plenty of Western and international restaurants, I’ve cho-
sen to focus my suggestions (and use my calories) on places that serve
local cuisine – after-all, I’m a firm believer that the best food to eat when
you travel to any destination, is local food.
Stone Town, is in my opinion, the best place on the island when it comes
to food.
What to eat: Their pilau rice is particularly excellent, one of the best I’ve had in Zan-
zibar, and also try their octopus curry which is fantastic. Expect to pay about 5,000
TZS ($2.92) per person for a stunning feast.
How to get there: It’s located on New Mkunazini Rd., just a short distance from the
Anglican Church and former slave market
Open hours: 7 am – 9 pm daily
What to eat: The curries are good, the biryani and pilau are both decent, and the
stewed green vegetables are wonderful. For a great meal you’ll spend about 5,000
TZS ($2.92) per person.
How to get there: From the Stone Town ferry terminal, head away from ocean on
Malawi road. Walk for a couple hundred meters, and just after Zenji Hotel, you’ll see
Passing Show on your right hand side.
Open hours: 7 am – 9 pm daily
They have all the local dishes available, including biryani and pilau, but I haven’t had
a chance to try them all myself yet, but I’m sure they are pretty good. The boko-boko
was interesting and good.
How to get there: Show up at the Fordhani Gardens anywhere from around 5 pm –
9 pm each evening
Prices: Zanzibar pizza (2,000 - 4000 TZS depending on what you get inside ($1.17
- $2.34), Chicken shawarma (3,000 TZS ($1.76), plate of seafood (10,000 TZS
($5.85), uroja mix (2,000 TZS ($1.17), sugar cane juice (1,000 TZS ($0.58)
Open hours: 6 pm - 9 pm daily
What to eat: All the dishes are simple and tasty. I had beef mixed with carrots and
onions, green vegetable, a fish tail soup, a crispy chapati, and 2 cups of chai all for
6,000 TZS ($3.51).
How to get there: The restaurant is across the street from Zenji Hotel, on Malawi
Road
Open hours: 7 am – 9 pm daily
What to eat: Chicken and chips (6,000 TZS ($3.51) or mishkaki and chips
How to get there: From the Stone Town ferry terminal, walk away from the ocean
on Malawi road. Around 30 meters, on the right hand side, just before you get to
Zenji Hotel, you’ll see Mukhy’s.
Open hours: 7 am – midnight, but very informal hours, they are open most of the
time is what the owner told me.
What to eat: Zanzibar style coffee is 100 TZS ($0.06) per cup, and you can easily have 2 –
3 cups or more and it won’t break your bank.
How to get there: It’s tricky, but the coffee shop is located at the intersection of Cathedral
St., Baghani St., and Soko Muhogo St. Ask any local and they will point you in the right
direction, just keep going until you get there.
Open hours: Early in the morning until late in the afternoon
Through this Zanzibar travel guide, I hope to uncover some of your ex-
pectations and advise you on a destination that will cater specifically to
your interests, so that you have the time of your life visiting Zanzibar.
Here are the beaches that I will cover in this part of the Zanzibar travel
guide (I’ve tried to include the pros and cons of each town, so you can get
a better idea if it will suit your interests).
For each of these towns in Zanzibar, I’ll do my best to give you a picture
of what it’s like, so you can better decide where you want to go. I’ll also
share what there is to do there, where to stay, what to eat, and any other
tips I figured out when I was there.
Nungwi is known for being a major fishing village, and they are also lo-
cally known for their traditional dhow sailboat making – best on the island.
Along with one of the best swimming beaches in all of Zanzibar, Nungwi is a good
option if you’re looking for nightlife, action, parties, and social interaction – it’s one of
the most popular beaches – so you have more of a chance of meeting other travel-
ers.
Nungwi village itself is quite large and a good place to explore the culture of Zanzi-
bar – though they are very accustomed to tourists – maybe too much so – and there
are many touts.
Pros: beautiful beach, parties and clubs, lots of activities, diving, sailing, snorkeling
Cons: louder than other beach towns, more touts, more muggings, huge all inclu-
sive resorts, expensive
• Private Taxi - It’s easy to get a taxi directly to Nungwi, and you can
arrange either through a hotel or get one yourself. Many taxis hang out
along the side of the streets in central Stone Town, especially in the
Shangani district. Should cost around $30 - $40, though you will likely
be quoted higher at first, so do some talking. Takes about 45 minutes.
• Shared Tourist Van - Ask at any of the guest houses in Stone Town,
and you can reserve a seat on a shared tourist van direct to Nungwi.
Usually 10,000 TZS ($5.85) per person, depart in the morning each
day at about 8 am (may have an afternoon van as well depending on
demand). Takes about 1 hour.
• Public Dalla Dalla - The local form of dalla dalla transportation, also
known as the chicken bus, is another fantastic way to get to Nungwi.
Dalla dallas leave from Darajani Market. Just show up at anytime (best
in the morning), load yourself into #116, wait until the dalla dalla is full,
and then over-full, and then you’ll depart. It’s a good local Zanzibar ex-
perience, but don’t expect a comfortable ride… you might have a stock
of bananas on your lap, some fish at your feet, and other passengers
in every hole in the back of the truck. But if you enjoy this type of expe-
rience, go for it. Costs 2,000 TZS ($1.17) per person, and the ride can
take 1.5 - 2 hours, with many people in and out at lots of stops. Dalla
dalla will drop you off in the center of the Nungwi.
Many of the resorts such as the Zanzibari, Essque Zalu Zanzibar, or the Z
Hotel, cater specifically to Italian tourists who often fly straight from Italy,
drive directly to their Nungwi resort, and spend their entire Zanzibar holi-
day at their resort without leaving.
But even with the many resorts, there are still a few smaller hotel style
residences as well as some bungalows available in Nungwi.
Also the staff are always willing to accommodate your every desire, doing things like
setting up a romantic meal on the beach.
Pros: Peaceful and serene, private beach pretty much all to yourself, amazing views
and sunrises, the full range of resort activities and facilities, excellent service, beau-
tiful grounds, good for romance / couples
Cons: Located a few kilometers from Nungwi town (for activities, restaurants etc.),
since it’s on the East side of Nungwi there’s a huge difference in low and high tide,
swimming in the sea is not the best
Website: Ras Nungwi
Prices: About $100 – $200 per night
Again, the beach here is magnificent at both high and low tides, you can easily swim
and enjoy the water. The rooms are basic, but clean enough and functional, and
they are all just a few steps from the sea. Also, this central area of Nungwi has plen-
ty to offer by way of tour agencies, diving, shopping, nightlife, and food.
Pros: awesome beachfront, good location, affordable price, meet backpacker travel-
ers
Cons: nothing fancy, bare bones
Prices: I was quoted $50 for a double, but do negotiate, and rates change according
to season
Diving, Nungwi
Like much of the island of Zanzibar,
Nungwi is popular for diving. I’m not a
diver, so I don’t know much about it, but
here are some sites to check out: http://
www.divezanzibar.com/, http://www.
diving-zanzibar.com/en/index.html
Nungwi, a much smaller beachside village, has very few local style res-
taurants (because many locals that live in Nungwi simply don’t have a
need to eat meals at restaurants when they can eat at home).
However, since Nungwi does have quite a few staff that work in the tour-
ism industry, you can find some small restaurants that dish out Zanzibari
food in the tourist area.
Kendwa has shifted a little to accommodating quite a few spread out all-
inclusive resorts now, and there are just a few bungalow types of places.
Kendwa is only a couple kilometers from Nungwi, but it’s much quieter
and has less of an actual village to explore. Though it’s mostly quiet, it’s
also home to the full moon party, at Kendwa Rocks.
Pros: amazing beach, quiet during the day but can be loud parties at
night (depending on what you’re looking for)
Cons: limited things to do, not a lot of hotels, very few dining options, no
village
Pros: Amazing beach, lots of sand, lots of space so you can choose to separate and
isolate yourself and relax or mingle and meet others
Cons: The actual grounds of the hotel is not that well designed
Website: http://www.sunsetkendwa.com/
Prices: $60 without AC, $100 with AC
Le Toits De Palme
This small hotel in Kendwa, has a few bungalows and banda rooms, some of which
have good sea views.
Website: http://www.lestoitsdepalme.com/
Pros: Good seaviews, awesome beach
Cons: Can be loud due to surrounding parties.
Prices: About $70 for a double
Kendwa Rocks
Kendwa Rocks is one of the most famous places to stay in Kendwa. You can
choose from a selection of coral rock bungalows to forest bungalows, each with their
own unique style.
The beach is really nice, and it’s a great place to hang out with friends, play beach
volleyball in the evenings, and also the full moon party is hosted here. Kendwa
Rocks is not the best place for a honeymoon, but more for beach parties.
Pros: Great beach, decent accommodation but could use some improvement
Cons: Perhaps a bit overpriced, loud sometimes at night
Website: Kendwa Rocks
Prices: Bandas are the most basic and cheapest rooms at about $50 – $60 per
night, and other better rooms can run from $100 – $130 per night
Ocean swimming is possible, but not the best on the island (that would be
Kendwa probably), but the overall scenery and ability to take long peace-
ful walks along the expansive sandy beach is a highlight.
Also, for diving and snorkeling, Matemwe is the closest village to Mnemba
Island, one of the most highly acclaimed underwater sites in Zanzibar with
a possibility of around 10 different dives.
Matemwe is the type of village where, as soon as you pull up, you’ll want
to ditch your shoes, and walk around barefoot, enjoying the sand and ad-
miring the natural coastline.
Matemwe makes a great place for both couples and families that want to
spend quality time with each other, in a super quiet place.
Pros: Diving (easy access to Mnemba Island), peace and relaxing, ex-
tremely laid back, nice friendly village, walks on the beach
Cons: Not many dining options, not a great swimming beach
You might ask around for a shared tourist van, but chances are, there
aren’t enough people to fill up a van going directly to Matemwe, so you
really have two choices: private taxi or public dalla dalla.
• Private taxi – Taxi costs about $30 – $40, do negotiate for the best
deal.
• Public dalla dalla – Dalla dallas leaves from the Darajani Market,
#118 Matemwe, and should cost about 2,000 TZS ($1.17) per person
all the way to the village.
Website: http://www.greenandblue-zanzibar.com/
Prices: $100 – $200 per person
I stayed at Matemwe Beach Village, and I’m happy to report that the food
at the restaurant was excellent.
Their philosophy is to keep a small rotating menu aligned with what’s lo-
cally available and fresh. Octopus and fish are common, and there’s also
usually meat and vegetarian options. For breakfast I chose eggs benedict
over a warm biscuit, and it was one of the best I had in Zanzibar.
The beach isn’t great, and the town is not that nice to walk around. Un-
less you’re just looking for a place that’s super quiet, without anything to
do, and without great accommodation options, I wouldn’t really recom-
mend Uroa.
Pongwe on the other hand, is quite nice, and while there aren’t very many
options for too many things to do or see, Pongwe Beach Hotel is beauti-
ful. It’s a wonderful relaxing place, good for families and couples, and nice
and secluded.
The beach water is amazing, with multi dimensions of dark blue, light
blue, and turquoise water that sparkles off the coral below.
It’s a great all-around section of the island, but you won’t find much local
culture or village life to experience (such as in the neighboring Bwejuu vil-
lage).
I’m going to just be honest and say most of the hotels located on the Mi-
chamvi Peninsula are way out of my league and many can cost anywhere
from $100 – $500 per night – or even more at some of the really exclusive
places. So if this is what you’re looking for, it’s worth researching more.
Since I was doing research for this guide, I was able to get some tours
of these hotels, but for the most part they don’t even allow visitors to just
walk into these hotels – you have to have a booking.
During low tide you can often walk to the restaurant, but during high tide
you have to get there by boat, or swim.
The menu mostly includes seafood dishes. I’ve personally never eaten
here, but friends have told me that it’s very expensive, small portions, and
service is lacking.
It’s truly a wonderful mixture of serenity and peace paired with a very
friendly village where you can actually experience the warm and friendly
Zanzibari culture, without being hustled by beach touts.
I think what I like most about Bwejuu, is that it’s still small and not over
populated with tourists, so local people are still very nice and the village is
very friendly.
The lanky and occasionally corkscrewed palm trees, that are so famous
around Bwejuu, also make for excellent scenery.
Bwejuu is not the beach to pick if you’re looking to party and stay up all
night; It’s more of a quiet, read a book, sleep early, wake early, kind of a
beach.
Pros: friendly local people, great cultural immersion village, extremely laid
back, some nice budget bungalows, quiet, peaceful
Cons: beach is not very good for swimming
Belllevue Guesthouse
Located on the northern side of Bwejuu, about a 10 minute walk from the center of
the village is Bellevue Guesthouse.
The small and warm guest house has a real easygoing feel to it, with lovely gardens,
a cool breeze, and a view of the ocean. Bellevue is quite secluded, on its own, so
it’s far from just about all noise and a fantastic place for ultimate peace and tranquil-
ity. For food, if you stay at Bellevue, you really only have the option to eat there, un-
less you go into Bwejuu village.
Pros: Small and friendly atmosphere, wonderful rooms that are artistically decorated
and spic and span, they financially support a local NGO and support the village of
Bwejuu
Cons: Not located directly on the ocean, about a 2 minute walk to the beach, but
there is a view of the ocean from the grounds, no real dining options other than at
the hotel
Prices: From around $50 - $100 per night
Website: http://www.bellevuezanzibar.com/
Contact: bellevuezanzibar@gmail.com +255 777209576
Mustapha’s Place
Located in the southern part of Bwejuu village is Mustapha’s Place, sort of a Rasta-
farian hang-out.
You’ll find Bob Marley posters, green, red, and yellow flags, and reggae music
always in the background. Rooms are basic but nice and service is good. If you
choose to stay at Mustapha’s, make sure you’re ready for the rasta style experience.
Pros: Good place to stay for a chill out, coral walls with lots of natural construction –
eco friendly, friendly, budget, good location in Bwejuu village
Cons: Not located directly on the beach, if you’re not the reggae type it’s not the
place for you
Prices: Depends on number of people and season, but rates begin around $15 per
person
Website: http://www.mustaphasplace.com/
Contact: +255 (0)7720 99422, +255 (0)24 224 0069
Spending time in Bwejuu is more about lazying about, sitting under the
breezy shade, reading books, going on beach walks, and possibly taking
some day trips to other nearby beaches and villages.
The atmosphere is nice and laid back, not so cultural like Bwejuu, but a
great place to either meet new friends, or to keep to yourself and just en-
joy the beach.
Paje would be the second liveliest village after Nungwi, so there are more
restaurant and bar options than other surrounding villages. Accommoda-
tion ranges from budget to mid-range, with a few new higher end choices.
Why Go to Paje?
If you are either looking to kitesurf, take kitesurfing lessons, or to swim in
the ocean, Paje has your name written on it.
Overall, I like the beauty of the palm trees and village culture of Bwejuu,
but for beach swimming and water sports, Paje wins.
Pros: Amazing beach, local run, clean basic and functional rooms, restaurant food
is quite good and relaxing at the restaurant is wonderful
Cons: I really liked it, but don’t expect anything fancy, service is adequate but not
5-star
Website: http://ndamezanzibar.com/
Contact: info@ndamezanzibar.com, +255 777 86 34 21
Prices: Prices for a double range from around $60 - $100, but this is a place you
need to bargain, and they are often willing to go down as long as they aren’t fully
booked. Breakfast is included, nothing spectacular, but all the basics and buffet
style. This is also a great place to come during low season.
Dhow Inn
The Dhow Inn is one of the few luxury options on Paje beach. Enjoy the same gor-
geous views of the the sea, plus you can also take dips in the swimming pool and
enjoy the amenities of a nicer place to relax and sleep.
Pros: Luxury hotel but it’s still in the center of Paje village (not isolated like other
fancy hotels), nice beach, private terraces, modern design
Cons: Expensive, resort style
Contact: +255 (0) 777 525 828, info@dhowinn.com
Prices: From $130 upwards
Website: Dhow Inn
Diving
Along with being a kitesurfing para-
dise, Paje also has a number of
PADI certified diving and learning
course opportunities. If you’re inter-
ested in learning how to dive, Paje
has you covered. There are a num-
ber of good dive sites in the south
of Zanzibar, around the Kizimkazi
area that you can visit. However, if
your main intention in Zanzibar is to
dive, you’re probably best off basing
yourself in Matemwe or Nungwi.
Reef Walk
When the tide is low, you can wade
through the water, but you can also
choose to participate in a reef walk,
either solo or accompanied by a
guide. A guide will be able to point
out things you’ll probably miss, but
you can still enjoy walking through
the shallow water and reefs by
yourself. Make sure you have a pair
of reef shoes so you don’t get cut
up.
Sail on a dhow
Either you can arrange through
whatever hotel you’re staying at,
or you can talk to one of the dhow
owners yourself for what you want
to do, but one of the best experi-
ences in Zanzibar is peacefully
sailing on a traditional sailboat.
Kinazi Upepo
Written on the sign as “Thai fusion su-
shi” you’ll find just that – some of the
Thai classics, and a menu of sushi as
well.
For starters, the beach is spectacular, not quite as good for swimming as
Paje, but the views and color spectrum of the ocean is amazing.
Strolling along the beach is quiet and safe and you can see women har-
vesting seaweed during low tide. I think families with kids, couples, and
individuals, will all enjoy Jambiani.
The owners and staff are very aware of their surroundings and make great efforts to
do projects and help the local community.
Red Monkey Lodge has a laid back atmosphere, yet at the same time it really ca-
ters to adventure seekers who want to get out and explore both ocean activities and
island excursions like biking and hiking.
Pros: Great atmosphere and place to have a drink or just chill out - nice communal
areas, great views of the ocean, private little beach cove, integrated into the local vil-
lage of Jambiani, great service
Cons: A little expensive for what you get, strange mosquito netting (not a net around
the bed, but a net to section of the room)
Website: http://www.redmonkeylodge.com/
Contact: info@redmonkeylodge.com, +255 777 713366
Prices: $80 - $100 for a double per night
In the evenings you can watch ladies harvesting seaweed, men maintaining their
boats, and guys playing football in the sand. White Sands is a good all around hotel
in a wonderful location.
Pros: Location is superb, small and friendly, quiet, staff are nice, good deal for what
you get (when compared with other hotels), clean and newly renovated, they have
wi-fi that you can access from your room (rare)!
Cons: Food is not very good, a little cramped of a place
Prices: For a double you’ll pay around $50 - $70, beach facing bungalows are more
expensive
Website: White Sands
Pros: semi-upscale, small hotel with just 14 rooms so you never have to worry
about being surrounded by too many people, eco-friendly built from all local Zanzi-
bari materials, good management
Cons: I just toured the facility and it looks pretty good
Prices: $90 for double without ac, $110 for room with ac (prices vary according to
season)
Website: Casa Del Mar
Contact: info@casa-delmar-zanzibar.com, +255- 24 2240 400
Al Hapa Bungalows
A mid-ranged bungalow option that is especially good for a younger crowd that’s
looking to hang out and mingle is Al Hapa Bungalows. The dhow sailboat bar at the
center of the hotel makes a good meeting place where you can hang out beachside.
Rooms are clean and quite new.
Pros: Nice location, beautiful beach, good for meeting others, bar, nightlife
Cons: Maybe a little noisy at night
Prices: Doube is $65
Website: Al Hapa Bungalows
Contact: alhapa.bungalows@africamail.com, +255 773 048 894
There are also a few Jambiani restaurants that serve local style food like Palm View
restaurant, run by a crew of rastas, and they serve mostly fresh catch fish. The food
is alright at best, but since they only cater to tourists, they tame flavors down and it
wasn’t really very good. Also, since they don’t always get much business in a day,
freshness is not always the best. I also tried a number of hotel restaurants, all of
whom served very average meals. Red Monkey Lodge does serve good quality and
fresh seafood dishes like grilled fish, but portions are tiny. That being said, if Red
Monkey Lodge hosts a Swahili buffet (occasionally), sign up immediately, it was the
best meal I had in Jambiani, really good.
Coral Rock hotel and White Sands both have restaurants with nice views of the
ocean, but the food is quite bad and prices are all around 15,000 – 20,000 TZS
($8.74 - $11.65) or a bit more for a meal – overpriced and not very satisfying.
I hope this resource will give you ideas about the places you want to go,
help you focus on the things you want to experience, and discover deli-
cious food to eat, when you visit this incredible island just off the coast of
East Africa.
- Mark Wiens