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Young Consumers

Second-hand clothing shopping among college students: the role of psychographic characteristics
Ruoh-Nan Yan Su Yun Bae Huimin Xu
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Ruoh-Nan Yan Su Yun Bae Huimin Xu , (2015),"Second-hand clothing shopping among college students: the role of
psychographic characteristics", Young Consumers, Vol. 16 Iss 1 pp. 85 - 98
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Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Lindsey Carey, Trine Harms, (2012),"Something old, something used: Determinants of women's
purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion", International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 40
Iss 12 pp. 956-974 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09590551211274946
Terhi Tuukkanen, Terhi-Anna Wilska, (2015),"Online environments in children’s everyday lives: children’s, parents’ and
teachers’ points of view", Young Consumers, Vol. 16 Iss 1 pp. 3-16 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/YC-03-2014-00430
Linda Lisa Maria Turunen, Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen, (2015),"Pre-loved luxury: identifying the meanings of second-hand
luxury possessions", Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 24 Iss 1 pp. 57-65 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/
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Second-hand clothing shopping among
college students: the role of
psychographic characteristics
Ruoh-Nan Yan, Su Yun Bae and Huimin Xu

Ruoh-Nan Yan is an Abstract


Associate Professor at Purpose – The study aims to examine whether and how second-hand clothing shoppers differ from
Department of Design non-shoppers on various psychographic variables, including environmentalism, perception of
and Merchandising, contamination, price sensitivity and perception of vintage clothing. Additionally, this study hopes to
Colorado State University, uncover whether and how the aforementioned psychographic variables help predict second-hand
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clothing shopping behaviour, specifically shopping frequency at second-hand clothing stores.


Fort Collins, Colorado,
Design/methodology/approach – Data were collected through a survey method from 152 college
USA. Su Yun Bae is a
students.
Graduate Student at
Findings – Results showed that college students who shopped at second-hand clothing stores were
Department of Consumer
more likely to be environmentally conscious, more sensitive to higher prices and more likely to wear
Sciences, Ohio State used clothing to express a vintage look and to be “green”, and to perceive used clothing to be less
University, Columbus, contaminated, as compared to those who did not shop at second-hand clothing stores. This study
Ohio, USA. Huimin Xu is concluded that, among college students, second-hand clothing shoppers may do so not only for
based at School of economic reasons but also for creation of style and feeling special about themselves.
Management, The Sage Research limitations/implications – This study suggests that college students who shop at
Colleges, Albany, New second-hand clothing stores are different from those who do not shop at second-hand stores in terms
York, USA. of their environmental attitudes, perceptions of contamination from used clothing, sensitivity to prices
and how they feel about vintage clothing. Further, financial concern (i.e. price sensitivity) is no longer the
only reason for second-hand clothing shopping.
Originality/value – Little research has been conducted to understand second-hand clothing shopping
behaviour among college students. This study examined multiple psychographic variables and
provided insights into college students’ second-hand shopping behaviour.
Keywords Contamination, Evironmentalism, Second-hand, Vintage
Paper type Research paper

Justification and purpose


The number of used-merchandise retail establishments has grown at about ten times the
rate of other stores (Solomon and Rabolt, 2004). Acknowledging the rising popularity and
uniqueness of second-hand channels, researchers have conducted studies to understand
consumers in the context of second-hand shopping, including consumer motivations (Guiot
and Roux, 2010), risk reduction strategies (Gabbott, 1991), consumer initial trust towards
used products sold online (Lee and Lee, 2006), price negotiation process between sellers
and buyers (Stroeker and Antonides, 1997) and differences between second-hand pieces
and vintage pieces (Cervellon et al., 2012).
Horne and Maddrell (2002) argued that researchers should investigate the second-hand
consumption behaviour through both economic and cultural lens to fully understand such
practices. Following the argument, Williams and Paddock (2003, p. 343) conducted
face-to-face interviews regarding purchases of certain household items, electronic goods
and clothing products, and concluded that affluent middle-class consumers might
Received 18 February 2014
Revised 9 June 2014
participate in second-hand shopping to purchase those products for reasons such as “fun,
Accepted 9 August 2014 sociality, distinction and being seen to buy the right thing”. For consumers with economic

DOI 10.1108/YC-02-2014-00429 VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015, pp. 85-98, © Emerald Group Publishing Limited, ISSN 1747-3616 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 85
constraints, second-hand shopping is practiced due to a lack of choice. Although the
researchers identified that reasons for second-hand shopping might go beyond economic
concerns and that consumer identity could be reflected through such practices and thus
called for further research to fully understand the meanings of second-hand channels to
consumers, they did not address specific cultural factors for further consideration.
In recent years, there is evidence to show that concerns about the environment have also
begun to increase consumers’ tendency to buy second-hand products (Rucker et al., 1995;
Soiffer and Herrmann, 1987; Belk et al., 1988). With consumers’ interest in environmentally
friendly fashion and retro clothing, there has been the consistent growth in the
second-hand or vintage clothing market (Beard, 2008). Specifically, the second-hand
clothing market has received increased attention especially in recent years. In the Western
world, second-hand clothing has formed a set of niche markets, with young consumers
(e.g. college students) being seen as these markets’ major target (Hansen, 2004).
Research has shown that young adult consumers shop at second-hand channels for
various reasons. For instance, college students shop at second-hand stores with certain
expectations that they might be able to find unique or chic products that are not usually
available through traditional shopping channels (Flores, 2014; Jenß, 2004). Young
consumers may also utilize the second-hand channels to dispose of clothing that is old or
out of style (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). Despite a growing number of young consumers
interested in shopping at second-hand stores, little research has been conducted to further
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understand used clothing shopping behaviour among young consumers, specifically


college students.
There are two objectives of the study. First, the study aims to examine whether and how
second-hand clothing shoppers differ from non-shoppers on various psychographic variables,
including environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and perception of
vintage clothing among college-aged consumers. Second, this study hopes to uncover
whether and how the aforementioned psychographic variables help predict second-hand
clothing shopping behaviour among college-aged consumers, specifically shopping
frequency at second-hand clothing stores. The psychographic variables in this study have
been chosen primarily because they have been cited frequently in the context of second-hand
shopping in trade magazines; yet, little academic research has incorporated these variables
simultaneously to understand shopping behaviour at this specific type of shopping venue.
Further, although it is intuitive to assume that consumers who do not purchase second-hand
clothing may be sensitive to the issues of cleanliness and of who has worn the clothing
previously, the concept of perception of contamination has not been considered in the
context of second-hand clothing shopping. College students aged 18 years and above
were chosen to be the research population not only because they have been a primary
market of second-hand clothing shopping but also because they represent a generation of
consumers who grew up with recycling and a broader awareness about the environment,
global warming, nuclear threats and humanitarian issues affecting their world (Label
Networks, 2012).

Literature review and hypothesis development


Second-hand shopping behaviour
Traditionally, second-hand retail venues (e.g. flea markets or thrift stores) were deemed as
being used primarily by consumers with limited financial resources (Williams and Paddock,
2003). During the recent years, however, there is a contrasting view that participation in
such venues might be a matter of choice for certain consumers (Williams and Paddock,
2003) rather than out of economic necessity (Guiot and Roux, 2010). Guiot and Roux (2010)
categorized French second-hand shoppers based on their motivations: “thrifty critics”,
“polymorphous enthusiasts”, “regular specialist shoppers” and “nostalgic hedonist”. The
largest group of the sample (30.4 per cent of total sample) were thrifty critics.
Characterized to be economic and critical with an average age of 30 years and a

PAGE 86 YOUNG CONSUMERS VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015


low-income level, the thrifty critics are less likely to shop second-hand for recreational
reasons. This group of consumers were found to use the channel to save money as well as
to avoid conventional stores and to support ecological consumption. The polymorphous
enthusiasts, the second largest group of the sample (28.5 per cent), were characterized by
their use of all types of second-hand channels including second-hand markets, discount
and second-hand stores, antique shops, charity stores and Internet sites. As middle-aged
or older shoppers (an average age of 40 years) with higher-than-average income levels,
they demonstrated strong propensity to browse and recycle, and high levels of frugality
and the need to be unique. The specialist shoppers, representing 21.7 per cent of the total
sample, shop at certain second-hand channels for specific types of second-hand
products. This group is most likely to be young people and present the lowest consumption
behaviour of second-hand products. Finally, contrary to the thrifty critics, the nostalgic
hedonists (19.3 per cent) exhibit the highest levels of recreational motivations and the
lowest levels of economic and critical motivations. Being older shoppers than the thrifty
critics (with an average age of 34 years), they earn an intermediate income level and show
moderate frugality and the need for uniqueness. They also have stronger propensity for
nostalgia and browsing than the sample average.
Flea markets as a part of second-order marketing system (Sherry, 1990) have been
investigated during the past several decades. Conducting telephone interviews to
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understand shopper profiles at a specific second-hand outlet (i.e. Goodwill), Yavas and
Riecken (1981) found some differences among non-shoppers and shoppers of various
shopping frequencies. For instance, quality of products sold at Goodwill was
unimportant to medium shoppers and light and medium shoppers considered shopping
for used merchandise as an adventure. Interestingly, the researchers found that
cleanliness was the least important consideration among the shoppers regarding
patronage motives; however, non-shoppers were not asked to indicate their
consideration for cleanliness at the store. Recently, Petrescu and Bhatli (2013)
concluded that low prices and the possibility of finding deals and bargains are the key
drivers for flea markets; however, shoppers at flea markets often desire to fulfil the
social interaction and communication needs.
Different product categories sold through second-hand markets have also been studied.
Earlier studies investigated the used car market and concluded that consumers might use
different product cues, such as price, brand name or country of origin, to help reduce the
risks involved when purchasing used cars (Gabbott, 1991). Focusing on second-hand
consumer durables, Stroeker and Antonides (1997) examined the bargaining process and
predicted prices by understanding the power of the seller and the dynamics between the
seller and the buyer. Conducting an experiment with 163 college students, Lee and Lee
(2006) found that college students were more willing to purchase used products from
unknown retailers in the online electronic market when they had more trust toward the
product and the seller. Used apparel products, however, have received little attention from
researchers in the second-hand markets.
Research has suggested that consumers of all ages might purchase products through
second-hand sources due to environmental motivations (Hiller Connell, 2011) or the desire
of seeking the authenticity of a vintage look to construct individuality and uniqueness
(Parsons, 2000). Though, charity/thrift shopping has been found to be more popular among
young people aged between 16 and 24 years (MINTEL, 1997; Parsons, 2000). There is
evidence to suggest that college-aged consumers may shop for apparel at second-hand
markets for reasons such as desire to help the environment, financial constraints and
seeking vintage fashion. It is also likely that college-aged consumers may shy away from
buying clothing at second-hand stores because of their perceptions of contamination. The
following section will address each of the constructs and how they relate to second-hand
clothing shopping.

VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 87


Environmentalism
Concern for environmental and ethical issues came to public awareness during the 1970s
and received acceptance in subsequent decades (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). Concern
for the environment has usually been conceptualized as an attitude (Gray, 1985) with
corresponding scales containing beliefs, knowledge, intentions and behaviours (Arbuthnot,
1977). As a formal conceptualization, environmentalism refers to various beliefs about:
 The relationship of humanity and nature.
 The importance of the environment to an individual.
 The seriousness of the current environmental conditions.
 Radical changes in lifestyle and economic systems to prevent environmental problems
(Banerjee and McKeage, 1994).
Thomas (2003) suggested that when there is a ready supply of used products that are still
valuable, second-hand markets can actually reduce consumer demands for new goods
and thus have significant environmental implications. Indeed, collecting survey data from
more than 200 consumers at second-hand shops in Denmark, Sweden and Estonia, Farrant
et al. (2010) concluded that reuse of clothes would significantly contribute to the reduction
of the environmental impact of clothing.
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Consumers’ product choices and purchasing decisions can be influenced by their attitude
toward the environment (i.e. environmentalism). Literature has indicated that many
American consumers consider themselves environmentalists and have changed their
shopping patterns to sustain the environment (e.g. buying environmentally friendly
products) and are content to pay more for those green products (Domina and Koch, 1998).
Specifically, college-aged students were found to be sympathetic toward the environment
and to regularly participate in environmentally responsible behaviours (e.g. recycling)
(Thapa, 1999). It is suggested that environmentally conscious college-aged consumers
may choose to shop at second-hand clothing stores to prolong the fashion life-cycle and to
protect the environment.

Perception of contamination
There has been a common assumption or “social stigma” associated with second-hand
products. For instance, Watson (2008) reported that consumers who used to experience
poverty in the past indicated that they would buy new because they consider second-hand
goods to be related to poverty. They were also found to feel embarrassment about buying
second-hand goods. qualitative work conducted by Gregson and Crewe (2003) revealed
consumers’ purchase intentions of second-hand goods are often determined by evidence
of “contamination” by the bodies of previous owners. Used products such as furniture (e.g.
mattresses) are considered to be the least popular second-hand furniture largely because
of the degree of contact with somebody else’s body and the concern of adequate
cleanliness (Granström, 2006).
The concept of contamination originated from the laws of sympathetic magic which
summarized individual’s beliefs and practices that exist across different cultures (Mauss,
1972). One of the central laws of sympathetic magic is the law of contagion. According to
this law, “when a source (person/object) and a recipient (another person/object) come into
direct or indirect contact, the source influences the recipient” (Argo et al., 2006, p. 82).
Further, the essence of the source would remain a part of the recipient even after contact
has been broken (Rozin and Nemeroff, 1990). That is, perceptions of contagion or
contamination might exist after clothing has been worn by an individual. In this study,
contamination is defined as a violation of individual personal space and may result from
consumer touching or wearing a product (Argo et al., 2006).

PAGE 88 YOUNG CONSUMERS VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015


“Need for touch” may have a profound effect on how consumers evaluate the products and
whether they will buy. While people like to examine and touch certain products before
purchase, it does not mean that they would like to purchase products they believe to have
already been fingered by another customer (Argo et al., 2006; Spence and Gallace, 2011).
Conducting experiments using a retail shopping environment with a sample of college
students, Argo et al. (2006) demonstrated that although consumers enjoy touching
products themselves when shopping, they would respond negatively when other
consumers have touched or tried on the products.
In general, compared to consumers who do not shop second-hand clothing, those who
have purchased second-hand clothing might exhibit lower degrees of anxiety at the
thought of coming into contact with clothing that has been previously worn by others.

Price sensitivity
Deemed as an individual difference variable, price sensitivity refers to the extent to which
consumers prefer and search for lower prices (Anglin et al., 1994) or how they feel about
paying the price for an offering (Goldsmith and Newell, 1997). Consumers who are high in
price sensitivity will display lesser demand as the price goes up; on the other hand,
consumers low in price sensitivity will not react as strongly to a price change (Goldsmith
and Newell, 1997).
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Numerous studies across nations have suggested that consumers shop at second-hand
retailers with the dominant reason being cheapness (Economic Planning Agency, 2000;
Association of Charity Shops, 2006). Lower price of second-hand products often drives
second-hand consumers’ purchase decisions. Williams and Paddock (2003) concluded
that second-hand venues are often the primary shopping outlet for financially deprived
consumers. Todd and Lawson (2003) found that frugal consumers tend to have the
predisposition to spend less on products overall as a lifestyle choice (rather than a personal
value). Recently, Cervellon et al. (2012) confirmed that frugality is the primary driver for
consumers to engage in second-hand shopping. Their finding is consistent with prior
research conducted by Roux and Guiot (2008) who have suggested that price sensitivity
and frugality are heavy second-hand shopping influencers. Many college students have
limited budgets to invest in the things they are passionate about (Scholarship America,
2013) and thus might be less willing to pay for products and services at full prices. It is
suggested that college students may choose to shop at second-hand stores due to
financial constraints and sensitivity to prices.

Perception of vintage clothing


Tully (2012) reported that second-hand shops provide consumers with opportunities to buy
retro and vintage items that are no longer in production. The term vintage has been
adopted by the fashion world where it is used to define “a rare and authentic piece that
represents the style of a particular couturier or era” (Gerval, 2008). Examining the profile
and motives of consumers of vintage fashion, Cervellon et al. (2012) defined vintage
clothes as pieces dating back from the 1920s to the 1980s. Vintage clothes are usually
available in a wider range of sizes and tend to be more affordable than the original pieces
through re-use of vintage fabrics, reproduction and/or reinterpretation. Although vintage
clothes may not necessarily have been used, a common notion of consumers is that vintage
pieces might be second-hand and second-hand pieces might be vintage (Cervellon et al.,
2012). Along with this notion, there is a trend that second-hand retailers and thrift shops
have renamed their stores “vintage”, whatever the age and origin of their stock (Iverson,
2010).
Vintage clothing typically involves an individual recognizing a specific type or model of
fashion (Delong et al., 2005). Consumers may buy clothes at second-hand stores to create
a unique vintage style. A recent study based on interviews of 12 vintage clothing shoppers
of college students further confirmed that shopping for vintage clothing at second-hand

VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 89


stores allowed them to feel a sense of discovery and independence (Flores, 2014).
Research has suggested that buying and wearing recycled clothes is an important goal for
shoppers of vintage clothing (Delong et al., 2005). Although Cervellon et al. (2012) found
that motivational drivers to purchasing vintage and second-hand clothes are different, it is
likely that college students may frequent second-hand shops for the thrill of hunt to find their
unique vintage pieces.
Based on the literature review, two hypotheses have been developed as follows:
H1. Second-hand clothing shoppers are different from non-shoppers regarding their
environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and perception of
vintage clothing.
H2a. There are positive relationships between environmentalism, price sensitivity and
perception of vintage styles and second-hand clothing shopping frequency.
H2b. There is a negative relationship between perception of contamination and
second-hand clothing shopping frequency.

Method
We used a sample of college students to test the hypotheses based on the research
objectives. Data were collected through a survey method from 152 college students
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enrolled at a Western university in the USA (M ⫽ 20.9 years, 5 per cent male and 95 per
cent female). The survey was facilitated and completed by the students on campus. This
method is in line with previous studies which examined college students’ attitudes and
behaviours (e.g. Nga and Yien, 2013). Participants were included if they were above 18
years of age and enrolled in classes on campus.
The questionnaire included demographic items, such as age, gender, ethnicity and school
standing. Participants were asked to answer questions regarding their monthly apparel
expenditures, types of second-hand clothing stores they had shopped at and their shopping
frequency at those stores. The questionnaire also comprised multi-item measures of
environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and perception of vintage
clothing.

Environmentalism
Modified based on Banerjee and McKeage (1994), environmentalism was measured with
19 items on a 7-point Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example
items of this scale include “I am a person who cares about the environment” and “The
whole environment issue is very important to me”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was
0.94.

Perception of contamination
Adapted from Argo et al. (2006), participants’ perceptions of contamination regarding
clothes sold at second-hand stores were assessed using four items measured on a 7-point
Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example items for this scale
include “Clothing sold at secondhand stores is gross” and “Clothing sold at secondhand
stores is disgusting”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was 0.93.

Price sensitivity
Following Anglin et al. (1994), price sensitivity was measured with three items on a 7-point
Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example items include “I usually
watch the advertisements for announcements of sales” and “I shop a lot for “specials” (e.g.
sale items)”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was 0.73.

PAGE 90 YOUNG CONSUMERS VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015


Perception of vintage clothing
Informed by Delong et al. (2005), perception of vintage clothing was measured using seven
items on a 7-point Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Principle
component analysis revealed two factors for this variable after removing one item due to
low factor loading. Factor 1 (self expression) included three items such as “Wearing vintage
clothing makes me feel special” and “Wearing vintage clothing gives me a sense of style”.
Factor 2 (green association) also contained three items such as “Wearing vintage clothing
is one way to be “green”” and “Wearing vintage clothing is one way to prolong the life cycle
of clothing”. The Cronbach’s alpha for Factor 1 was 0.89 and for Factor 2 was 0.82.
Average scores were then obtained based on items for each construct. Participants were
split into shoppers and non-shoppers for further analyses based on their responses to the
question asking whether they had shopped at second-hand stores. Diagnostic statistics
were run to test for multicollinearity among all of the variables. Because no variance inflation
factor value exceeded 10 and the tolerance values were greater than 0.10, it was
concluded that multicollinearity did not exist (Hair et al., 1995).

Results
Almost 86 per cent of the participants were Caucasian, over 5 per cent Hispanic and almost
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4 per cent were Asian. Approximately 65 per cent of participants (n ⫽ 98) reported they had
shopped at second-hand clothing stores. Half of the participants who had shopped at
second-hand stores reported they shopped at Salvation Army, Good Will and/or Arc Thrift
Store one to four times within a year and almost 40 per cent of them shopped at Plato’s
Closet and/or Buffalo Exchange one to four times a year. On average, participants reported
spending $99.57 per month on apparel products.
Independent sample t-tests were conducted to test H1. Results showed that second-hand
clothing shoppers were different from non-shoppers on all constructs (Mshopper ⫽ 4.88 vs
Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.34, p ⬍ 0.01 for environmentalism; Mshopper ⫽ 2.77 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 3.94,
p ⬍ 0.001 for perception of contamination; Mshopper ⫽ 5.42 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.62, p ⬍ 0.01
for price sensitivity; Mshopper ⫽ 4.75 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 3.66, p ⬍ 0.001 for self-expression
factor; Mshopper ⫽ 5.56 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.79, p ⬍ 0.001 for green association factor). In
general, H1 was supported (see Table I).

Table I Comparison of shoppers and non-shoppers of second-hand clothing on


environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and perception
of vintage clothing
Variable M SD t df p

Environmentalism 2.92 143 p ⬍ 0.01


Shoppers 4.88 1.02
Non-shoppers 4.34 1.11
Perception of contamination ⫺4.93 150 p ⬍ 0.001
Shoppers 2.77 1.31
Non-shoppers 3.94 1.57
Price sensitivity 3.47 91 p ⬍ 0.01
Shoppers 5.42 1.17
Non-shoppers 4.62 1.45
Perception of vintage clothing: self expression factor 5.18 149 p ⬍ 0.001
Shoppers 4.75 1.28
Non-shoppers 3.66 1.14
Perception of vintage clothing: green association factor 3.75 150 p ⬍ 0.001
Shoppers 5.56 1.11
Non-shoppers 4.79 1.37

VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 91


Multiple regression was conducted to test H2a and H2b to see whether and how the
psychographic variables predicted second-hand clothing shopping frequency. Using
environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and two factors of
perception of vintage style as independent variables and participants’ reported shopping
frequency at second-hand clothing stores as the dependent variable, regression analysis
results showed that the overall model was significant (R2 ⫽ 0.24, F ⫽ 8.37, p ⬍ 0.001).
Specifically, price sensitivity and the self-expression factor of perception of vintage clothing
positively predicted participants’ shopping frequency at second-hand clothing stores (␤ ⫽
0.20, t ⫽ 2.59, p ⬍ 0.05; ␤ ⫽ 0.32, t ⫽ 2.64, p ⬍ 0.01, respectively). Perception of
contamination negatively influenced their shopping frequency (␤ ⫽ ⫺0.21, t ⫽ ⫺2.34, p ⬍
0.05). Environmentalism and the green association factor of perception of vintage clothing
did not predict shopping frequency. Thus, H2a was partially supported and H2b was
supported (see Table II).

Discussion
The objectives of the study were:
 To examine whether and how second-hand clothing shoppers differ from
non-shoppers regarding various psychographic variables among college-aged
students.
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 To investigate what psychographic variables would predict second-hand clothing


shopping behaviour.
Results showed that college students who shopped at second-hand clothing stores
were more likely to be environmentally conscious, more sensitive to higher prices and
more likely to wear used clothing to express a vintage look and to be “green”. They also
perceived used clothing to be less gross/disgusting/unclean/revolting than those who
did not shop at second-hand clothing stores. Consistent with literature suggesting that
consumers may shop at second-hand channels for various motivations (Guiot and
Roux, 2010), findings of this study show that besides economic considerations (i.e.
price sensitivity), college students who shopped for second-hand clothing might do so
for environmental and social reasons. Additionally, their boundaries of acceptability of
shopping for second-hand clothing tended to be broader than those who did not shop
at second-hand clothing stores.
Further, this study found that among college students, second-hand clothing shopping
frequency was predicted by perception of contamination, price sensitivity and the
self-expression factor of perception of vintage clothing, all in the expected directions.
Among those variables, the self-expression factor of perception of vintage clothing had
the highest beta coefficient, and thus the strongest predicative power. Similar to the
findings by Guiot and Roux (2010), the result suggests that college students utilize
second-hand channels to help them find vintage clothes to express themselves and to
create a sense of style. The strength of influence of this variable is unexpected;

Table II Multiple regression analysis summary for environmentalism, perception of


contamination, price sensitivity and perception of vintage clothing predicting
shopping frequency at second-hand clothing stores
SE
Variable B B ␤ t p

Environmentalism 0.00 0.06 0.00 0.04 p ⬎ 0.05


Perception of contamination ⫺0.11 0.05 ⫺0.21 ⫺2.34 p ⬍ 0.05
Price sensitivity 0.12 0.05 0.20 2.59 p ⬍ 0.05
Perception of vintage clothing: self-expression factor 0.19 0.07 0.32 2.64 p ⬍ 0.01
Perception of vintage clothing: green association factor ⫺0.06 0.07 ⫺0.09 ⫺0.78 p ⬎ 0.05
Notes: R2 ⫽ 0.24; F(5,133) ⫽ 8.37, p ⬍ 0.001

PAGE 92 YOUNG CONSUMERS VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015


however, considering that college students tend to have fewer financial resources,
second-hand clothing stores could be a venue where they can shop to help express
their desire to maintain a unique style without spending too much money.
Participants who considered clothing sold at second-hand stores to be disgusting and
gross were found to shop less frequently at those stores. Consistent with Argo et al.
(2006), consumers may evaluate products previously touched by other customers less
favourably. When proximity to contact is closer (e.g. someone is trying on the product)
and when the number of contact sources is higher (e.g. many customers have tried on
the product), consumers are less likely to purchase or pay for the product. Results of
this study show that some participants might find clothing being sold at second-hand
stores less desirable because it has been contaminated by others who have previously
worn the products. Inclusion of perception of contamination adds to the literature
regarding second-hand shopping, which is not considered in Guiot and Roux’s (2010)
study.
Even though the results of H1 testing showed that the second-hand clothing shoppers
were different from non-shoppers in regards to environmentalism and the green
association factor of perception of vintage clothing, those environment-related
variables did not seem to influence participants’ shopping frequency at second-hand
clothing stores. This surprising finding is contrary to the literature, suggesting that
consumers shop at second-hand stores partly to save money and partly to save the
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environment (Shirvell, 2013). While there is evidence to show that shopping at thrift
stores helps lower carbon footprints (Turosak, 2009), the college participants did not
seem to shop at second-hand stores out of concerns for the environment. There are
several explanations for this finding. First, literature has suggested that college
students who strongly support the environmental attitudes do not always carry out their
behaviour accordingly (Müderrisoğlu and Altanlar, 2011). Participants in this study
might have positive attitudes toward environmentalism; however, they might not decide
to shop at second-hand stores to reflect their attitudes. Second, Schultz (2001) found
that environmental concern, similar to environmentalism measured in this study,
includes three classifications, depending on how each individual develops the attitude.
That is, individuals may possess egoistic, altruistic and/or biospheric concerns for the
environment based on the degree to which they perceive interconnections with other
people and with nature. The construct of environmentalism was examined as one
dimension in this study, the different types of environmental attitudes might help better
predict consumers’ shopping behaviour at second-hand stores. Lastly, studying
college students’ environmental attitudes, knowledge and behaviours, Levine and
Strube (2012) found that male college students were more knowledgeable than female
students about environmental issues. The fact that the sample of this study consisted
95 per cent of females may indicate a group of consumers that are less informed about
environment-related issues.

Conclusions and implications


This study contributes to the understanding of second-hand clothing shopping
behaviour among college students, and confirms and extends the literature in relation
to second-hand consumer behaviour by incorporating environmentalism, perception of
contamination, price sensitivity and perception of vintage clothing. Specifically, this
study suggests that college students who shop at second-hand clothing stores are
different from those who do not shop at second-hand stores in terms of their
environmental attitudes, perceptions of contamination from used clothing, sensitivity to
prices and how they feel about vintage clothing. Further, financial concern (i.e. price
sensitivity) is no longer the only reason for second-hand clothing shopping, as
suggested in the earlier literature. Consumers who are looking to buy unique items and
create a sense of style tend to shop at second-hand stores as well. Those who perceive

VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 93


clothing sold at second-hand stores to be gross or unclean are less likely to shop at
those venues.
From the marketing perspective, to encourage consumers to shop at second-hand
stores, it is important for second-hand stores to ensure consumers that the items being
sold are clean. Information regarding the procedures during which the clothes are
prepared to be sold may be shared through marketing efforts. This is especially crucial
for those second-hand clothing retailers that target college students (e.g. Plato’s
Closet). Many second-hand clothing retailers sell high-quality repurposed goods, many
of which are nearly new and sold at fair prices (Turosak, 2009). They may consider
highlighting certain benefits of shopping at their stores, including saving money on new
(or nearly new) products and treasure hunting for unique pieces to help create stylish
outfits.
Although findings of the study failed to confirm the relationship between environmental
attitudes and second-hand clothing shopping frequency among college students, college
student shoppers at second-hand clothing stores in general tend to be more
environmentally conscious compared to non-shoppers. Second-hand clothing retailers
should promote the store by associating wearing used clothing with reducing negative
impacts on the environment.
Limitations of the study include the sampling method which may limit the
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generalizability of the findings. First, the sample consisted mostly of female college
students. Although the sample is in line with previous studies that revealed females
purchase clothing more frequently and were more interested in fashion styles than
males do (Beaudoin et al., 2003), future research should consider collecting data from
a more diverse sample and investigate potential gender differences in the context of
second-hand clothing shopping. Second, this study examined college students’
shopping behaviour at second-hand stores as a whole without differentiating the
behaviours among different types of second-hand shops. According to O’Donnell and
Hughes (2007), there is a strong distinction between thrift shops operated as non-profit
organizations (e.g. Goodwill) and consignment shops which give the original owners a
cut of the final price and attract more affluent consumers for prom dresses and the like
(e.g. Buffalo Exchange). Therefore, future research may address the question of
whether and how second-hand clothing shoppers differ across different types of
second-hand stores. Thirdly, research has found that consumer behaviour at a used
merchandise outlet (e.g. Goodwill) varies depending on the shopping frequency of
those shoppers. It will be beneficial to further investigate whether and how light vs
medium vs heavy college-aged shoppers of second-hand clothing stores vary on
psychographics such as environmentalism, price sensitivity, perception of vintage
clothing and perception of contamination. Additionally, social influence such as peers
and family can be included for future investigation to understand whether second-hand
shopping is an individual oriented or social-oriented shopping activity.

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About the authors


Ruoh-Nan Yan is an Associate Professor in the Department of Design & Merchandising at
Colorado State University. She earned her PhD in Retailing and Consumer Sciences from
the University of Arizona. Her research interests are in the area of services retailing,
sustainable retailing and consumption and cross-cultural studies. Ruoh-Nan Yan is the
corresponding author and can be contacted at: Ruoh-Nan.Yan@ColoState.EDU

VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 97


Su Yun Bae is a Doctoral Student in the Department of Consumer Sciences at Ohio State
University. The areas of her research interests are retail merchandising, consumer
behaviour and social responsibility, understood from both the company and consumer
perspectives.

Huimin Xu is an Assistant Professor of Marketing at the Sage Colleges. She holds a PhD in
marketing with a minor in social psychology from the University of Arizona. Her research
interests include materialism, marketing communication, self-regulatory focus and
existential anxiety’s influence on creative consumption. She has published in Journal of
Consumer Behavior, Basic and Applied Social Psychology, Journal of Research for
Consumers, Communication Studies and Journal of Business and Management. She has
presented at the conferences of American Marketing Association, Association for
Consumer Research and Society for Consumer Psychology.
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