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Second-hand clothing shopping among college students: the role of psychographic characteristics
Ruoh-Nan Yan Su Yun Bae Huimin Xu
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Ruoh-Nan Yan Su Yun Bae Huimin Xu , (2015),"Second-hand clothing shopping among college students: the role of
psychographic characteristics", Young Consumers, Vol. 16 Iss 1 pp. 85 - 98
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Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Lindsey Carey, Trine Harms, (2012),"Something old, something used: Determinants of women's
purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion", International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 40
Iss 12 pp. 956-974 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09590551211274946
Terhi Tuukkanen, Terhi-Anna Wilska, (2015),"Online environments in children’s everyday lives: children’s, parents’ and
teachers’ points of view", Young Consumers, Vol. 16 Iss 1 pp. 3-16 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/YC-03-2014-00430
Linda Lisa Maria Turunen, Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen, (2015),"Pre-loved luxury: identifying the meanings of second-hand
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DOI 10.1108/YC-02-2014-00429 VOL. 16 NO. 1 2015, pp. 85-98, © Emerald Group Publishing Limited, ISSN 1747-3616 YOUNG CONSUMERS PAGE 85
constraints, second-hand shopping is practiced due to a lack of choice. Although the
researchers identified that reasons for second-hand shopping might go beyond economic
concerns and that consumer identity could be reflected through such practices and thus
called for further research to fully understand the meanings of second-hand channels to
consumers, they did not address specific cultural factors for further consideration.
In recent years, there is evidence to show that concerns about the environment have also
begun to increase consumers’ tendency to buy second-hand products (Rucker et al., 1995;
Soiffer and Herrmann, 1987; Belk et al., 1988). With consumers’ interest in environmentally
friendly fashion and retro clothing, there has been the consistent growth in the
second-hand or vintage clothing market (Beard, 2008). Specifically, the second-hand
clothing market has received increased attention especially in recent years. In the Western
world, second-hand clothing has formed a set of niche markets, with young consumers
(e.g. college students) being seen as these markets’ major target (Hansen, 2004).
Research has shown that young adult consumers shop at second-hand channels for
various reasons. For instance, college students shop at second-hand stores with certain
expectations that they might be able to find unique or chic products that are not usually
available through traditional shopping channels (Flores, 2014; Jenß, 2004). Young
consumers may also utilize the second-hand channels to dispose of clothing that is old or
out of style (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). Despite a growing number of young consumers
interested in shopping at second-hand stores, little research has been conducted to further
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understand shopper profiles at a specific second-hand outlet (i.e. Goodwill), Yavas and
Riecken (1981) found some differences among non-shoppers and shoppers of various
shopping frequencies. For instance, quality of products sold at Goodwill was
unimportant to medium shoppers and light and medium shoppers considered shopping
for used merchandise as an adventure. Interestingly, the researchers found that
cleanliness was the least important consideration among the shoppers regarding
patronage motives; however, non-shoppers were not asked to indicate their
consideration for cleanliness at the store. Recently, Petrescu and Bhatli (2013)
concluded that low prices and the possibility of finding deals and bargains are the key
drivers for flea markets; however, shoppers at flea markets often desire to fulfil the
social interaction and communication needs.
Different product categories sold through second-hand markets have also been studied.
Earlier studies investigated the used car market and concluded that consumers might use
different product cues, such as price, brand name or country of origin, to help reduce the
risks involved when purchasing used cars (Gabbott, 1991). Focusing on second-hand
consumer durables, Stroeker and Antonides (1997) examined the bargaining process and
predicted prices by understanding the power of the seller and the dynamics between the
seller and the buyer. Conducting an experiment with 163 college students, Lee and Lee
(2006) found that college students were more willing to purchase used products from
unknown retailers in the online electronic market when they had more trust toward the
product and the seller. Used apparel products, however, have received little attention from
researchers in the second-hand markets.
Research has suggested that consumers of all ages might purchase products through
second-hand sources due to environmental motivations (Hiller Connell, 2011) or the desire
of seeking the authenticity of a vintage look to construct individuality and uniqueness
(Parsons, 2000). Though, charity/thrift shopping has been found to be more popular among
young people aged between 16 and 24 years (MINTEL, 1997; Parsons, 2000). There is
evidence to suggest that college-aged consumers may shop for apparel at second-hand
markets for reasons such as desire to help the environment, financial constraints and
seeking vintage fashion. It is also likely that college-aged consumers may shy away from
buying clothing at second-hand stores because of their perceptions of contamination. The
following section will address each of the constructs and how they relate to second-hand
clothing shopping.
Consumers’ product choices and purchasing decisions can be influenced by their attitude
toward the environment (i.e. environmentalism). Literature has indicated that many
American consumers consider themselves environmentalists and have changed their
shopping patterns to sustain the environment (e.g. buying environmentally friendly
products) and are content to pay more for those green products (Domina and Koch, 1998).
Specifically, college-aged students were found to be sympathetic toward the environment
and to regularly participate in environmentally responsible behaviours (e.g. recycling)
(Thapa, 1999). It is suggested that environmentally conscious college-aged consumers
may choose to shop at second-hand clothing stores to prolong the fashion life-cycle and to
protect the environment.
Perception of contamination
There has been a common assumption or “social stigma” associated with second-hand
products. For instance, Watson (2008) reported that consumers who used to experience
poverty in the past indicated that they would buy new because they consider second-hand
goods to be related to poverty. They were also found to feel embarrassment about buying
second-hand goods. qualitative work conducted by Gregson and Crewe (2003) revealed
consumers’ purchase intentions of second-hand goods are often determined by evidence
of “contamination” by the bodies of previous owners. Used products such as furniture (e.g.
mattresses) are considered to be the least popular second-hand furniture largely because
of the degree of contact with somebody else’s body and the concern of adequate
cleanliness (Granström, 2006).
The concept of contamination originated from the laws of sympathetic magic which
summarized individual’s beliefs and practices that exist across different cultures (Mauss,
1972). One of the central laws of sympathetic magic is the law of contagion. According to
this law, “when a source (person/object) and a recipient (another person/object) come into
direct or indirect contact, the source influences the recipient” (Argo et al., 2006, p. 82).
Further, the essence of the source would remain a part of the recipient even after contact
has been broken (Rozin and Nemeroff, 1990). That is, perceptions of contagion or
contamination might exist after clothing has been worn by an individual. In this study,
contamination is defined as a violation of individual personal space and may result from
consumer touching or wearing a product (Argo et al., 2006).
Price sensitivity
Deemed as an individual difference variable, price sensitivity refers to the extent to which
consumers prefer and search for lower prices (Anglin et al., 1994) or how they feel about
paying the price for an offering (Goldsmith and Newell, 1997). Consumers who are high in
price sensitivity will display lesser demand as the price goes up; on the other hand,
consumers low in price sensitivity will not react as strongly to a price change (Goldsmith
and Newell, 1997).
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Numerous studies across nations have suggested that consumers shop at second-hand
retailers with the dominant reason being cheapness (Economic Planning Agency, 2000;
Association of Charity Shops, 2006). Lower price of second-hand products often drives
second-hand consumers’ purchase decisions. Williams and Paddock (2003) concluded
that second-hand venues are often the primary shopping outlet for financially deprived
consumers. Todd and Lawson (2003) found that frugal consumers tend to have the
predisposition to spend less on products overall as a lifestyle choice (rather than a personal
value). Recently, Cervellon et al. (2012) confirmed that frugality is the primary driver for
consumers to engage in second-hand shopping. Their finding is consistent with prior
research conducted by Roux and Guiot (2008) who have suggested that price sensitivity
and frugality are heavy second-hand shopping influencers. Many college students have
limited budgets to invest in the things they are passionate about (Scholarship America,
2013) and thus might be less willing to pay for products and services at full prices. It is
suggested that college students may choose to shop at second-hand stores due to
financial constraints and sensitivity to prices.
Method
We used a sample of college students to test the hypotheses based on the research
objectives. Data were collected through a survey method from 152 college students
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enrolled at a Western university in the USA (M ⫽ 20.9 years, 5 per cent male and 95 per
cent female). The survey was facilitated and completed by the students on campus. This
method is in line with previous studies which examined college students’ attitudes and
behaviours (e.g. Nga and Yien, 2013). Participants were included if they were above 18
years of age and enrolled in classes on campus.
The questionnaire included demographic items, such as age, gender, ethnicity and school
standing. Participants were asked to answer questions regarding their monthly apparel
expenditures, types of second-hand clothing stores they had shopped at and their shopping
frequency at those stores. The questionnaire also comprised multi-item measures of
environmentalism, perception of contamination, price sensitivity and perception of vintage
clothing.
Environmentalism
Modified based on Banerjee and McKeage (1994), environmentalism was measured with
19 items on a 7-point Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example
items of this scale include “I am a person who cares about the environment” and “The
whole environment issue is very important to me”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was
0.94.
Perception of contamination
Adapted from Argo et al. (2006), participants’ perceptions of contamination regarding
clothes sold at second-hand stores were assessed using four items measured on a 7-point
Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example items for this scale
include “Clothing sold at secondhand stores is gross” and “Clothing sold at secondhand
stores is disgusting”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was 0.93.
Price sensitivity
Following Anglin et al. (1994), price sensitivity was measured with three items on a 7-point
Likert scale (1 ⫽ strongly disagree, 7 ⫽ strongly agree). Example items include “I usually
watch the advertisements for announcements of sales” and “I shop a lot for “specials” (e.g.
sale items)”. The Cronbach’s alpha for this scale was 0.73.
Results
Almost 86 per cent of the participants were Caucasian, over 5 per cent Hispanic and almost
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4 per cent were Asian. Approximately 65 per cent of participants (n ⫽ 98) reported they had
shopped at second-hand clothing stores. Half of the participants who had shopped at
second-hand stores reported they shopped at Salvation Army, Good Will and/or Arc Thrift
Store one to four times within a year and almost 40 per cent of them shopped at Plato’s
Closet and/or Buffalo Exchange one to four times a year. On average, participants reported
spending $99.57 per month on apparel products.
Independent sample t-tests were conducted to test H1. Results showed that second-hand
clothing shoppers were different from non-shoppers on all constructs (Mshopper ⫽ 4.88 vs
Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.34, p ⬍ 0.01 for environmentalism; Mshopper ⫽ 2.77 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 3.94,
p ⬍ 0.001 for perception of contamination; Mshopper ⫽ 5.42 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.62, p ⬍ 0.01
for price sensitivity; Mshopper ⫽ 4.75 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 3.66, p ⬍ 0.001 for self-expression
factor; Mshopper ⫽ 5.56 vs Mnon-shopper ⫽ 4.79, p ⬍ 0.001 for green association factor). In
general, H1 was supported (see Table I).
Discussion
The objectives of the study were:
To examine whether and how second-hand clothing shoppers differ from
non-shoppers regarding various psychographic variables among college-aged
students.
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environment (Shirvell, 2013). While there is evidence to show that shopping at thrift
stores helps lower carbon footprints (Turosak, 2009), the college participants did not
seem to shop at second-hand stores out of concerns for the environment. There are
several explanations for this finding. First, literature has suggested that college
students who strongly support the environmental attitudes do not always carry out their
behaviour accordingly (Müderrisoğlu and Altanlar, 2011). Participants in this study
might have positive attitudes toward environmentalism; however, they might not decide
to shop at second-hand stores to reflect their attitudes. Second, Schultz (2001) found
that environmental concern, similar to environmentalism measured in this study,
includes three classifications, depending on how each individual develops the attitude.
That is, individuals may possess egoistic, altruistic and/or biospheric concerns for the
environment based on the degree to which they perceive interconnections with other
people and with nature. The construct of environmentalism was examined as one
dimension in this study, the different types of environmental attitudes might help better
predict consumers’ shopping behaviour at second-hand stores. Lastly, studying
college students’ environmental attitudes, knowledge and behaviours, Levine and
Strube (2012) found that male college students were more knowledgeable than female
students about environmental issues. The fact that the sample of this study consisted
95 per cent of females may indicate a group of consumers that are less informed about
environment-related issues.
generalizability of the findings. First, the sample consisted mostly of female college
students. Although the sample is in line with previous studies that revealed females
purchase clothing more frequently and were more interested in fashion styles than
males do (Beaudoin et al., 2003), future research should consider collecting data from
a more diverse sample and investigate potential gender differences in the context of
second-hand clothing shopping. Second, this study examined college students’
shopping behaviour at second-hand stores as a whole without differentiating the
behaviours among different types of second-hand shops. According to O’Donnell and
Hughes (2007), there is a strong distinction between thrift shops operated as non-profit
organizations (e.g. Goodwill) and consignment shops which give the original owners a
cut of the final price and attract more affluent consumers for prom dresses and the like
(e.g. Buffalo Exchange). Therefore, future research may address the question of
whether and how second-hand clothing shoppers differ across different types of
second-hand stores. Thirdly, research has found that consumer behaviour at a used
merchandise outlet (e.g. Goodwill) varies depending on the shopping frequency of
those shoppers. It will be beneficial to further investigate whether and how light vs
medium vs heavy college-aged shoppers of second-hand clothing stores vary on
psychographics such as environmentalism, price sensitivity, perception of vintage
clothing and perception of contamination. Additionally, social influence such as peers
and family can be included for future investigation to understand whether second-hand
shopping is an individual oriented or social-oriented shopping activity.
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Huimin Xu is an Assistant Professor of Marketing at the Sage Colleges. She holds a PhD in
marketing with a minor in social psychology from the University of Arizona. Her research
interests include materialism, marketing communication, self-regulatory focus and
existential anxiety’s influence on creative consumption. She has published in Journal of
Consumer Behavior, Basic and Applied Social Psychology, Journal of Research for
Consumers, Communication Studies and Journal of Business and Management. She has
presented at the conferences of American Marketing Association, Association for
Consumer Research and Society for Consumer Psychology.
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