Homework #3 Coastal Prediction and Analysis Theories

Faizal Ade Rahmahuddin Abdullah Student ID: 02212006

1. Derive the expression for the velocities, pressure, and trajectories for linear wave under the deep-
water assumptions. Discuss the results.

Derivation of velocities expression for linear wave under the deep-water assumptions.
𝑔𝑎𝑘 cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
𝑢= cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
1 𝑘(𝑧+ℎ)
𝑎𝜔2 2 𝑒
≈ cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 1 𝑘ℎ
2 𝑒

≈ 𝑎𝜔 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝑔𝑎𝑘 sinh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
𝑤= sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
1 𝑘(𝑧+ℎ)
𝑎𝜔2 2 𝑒
≈ sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝜔 1 𝑒 𝑘ℎ
2
≈ 𝑎𝜔 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
In deep water, the expression for the amplitude of the velocity components 𝑢 and 𝑤 is same. The
magnitude of 𝐮, is independent of time (since sin2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) + cos2 (𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) = 1)

|𝐮| = √𝑢2 + 𝑤 2 = 𝑎𝜔 𝑒 𝑘𝑧

This expression shows that, for deep water, the wave-induced velocity decreases exponentially with
the distance to the surface (𝑧 < 0).

- Trajectories
cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
𝑥 = −𝑎 sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
sinh 𝑘ℎ
1 𝑘(𝑧+ℎ)
𝑒
≈ −𝑎 2 sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
1 𝑘ℎ
2 𝑒

≈ − 𝑎 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
sin 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
𝑧=𝑎 cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
sin 𝑘ℎ
1 𝑘(𝑧+ℎ)
𝑒
≈ 𝑎 cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) 2
1 𝑘ℎ
2𝑒
≈ 𝑎 cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) 𝑒 𝑘𝑧
Again, using trigonometric relation, we got

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Homework #3 Coastal Prediction and Analysis Theories
Faizal Ade Rahmahuddin Abdullah Student ID: 02212006
𝑥2 𝑦2
+ =1
(−𝑎𝑒 𝑘𝑧 )2 (𝑎𝑒 𝑘𝑧 )2
2
𝑥 2 + 𝑦 2 = (𝑎𝑒 𝑘𝑧 )

In deep water, the length of two axis are equal, so that the particles move through circle with radius
decreasing exponentially with the distance to the surface

𝑟 = 𝑎𝑒 𝑘𝑧
- pressure
1 𝑘(𝑧+ℎ)
cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) 2 𝑒
𝐾𝑝 (𝑧) = ≈ = 𝑒 𝑘𝑧
cosh 𝑘ℎ 1 𝑘ℎ
2𝑒
𝑝 = 𝜌𝑔 (𝜂𝐾𝑝 − 𝑧) ≈ 𝜌𝑔 (𝜂𝑒 𝑘𝑧 − 𝑧)

which represents the same exponential reduction with the distance to the surface as for the orbital
velocities and the radius of the particle path.
𝑐2 𝐿
2. First, we plot and as a function of 𝑘ℎ.
𝑔ℎ 𝐿0

𝑐 2 tanh 𝑘ℎ 𝐿
= = tanh 𝑘ℎ
𝑔ℎ 𝑘ℎ 𝐿0

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Homework #3 Coastal Prediction and Analysis Theories
Faizal Ade Rahmahuddin Abdullah Student ID: 02212006
3. Derivation of the kinetic energy and the energy flux

Kinetic Energy

The kinetic energy is due to the moving water particles; the kinetic energy associated with a small
parcel of fluid with mass 𝑑𝑚 is
1 1
𝑑(𝐾𝐸) = 𝑑𝑚 𝑉 2 = 𝜌(𝑢2 + 𝑤 2 )𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
2 2
To find the average kinetic energy per unit surface area, 𝑑(𝐾𝐸) must be integrated over depth and
averaged over a wavelength.

1 0 𝐿1
𝐾𝐸 = ∫ ∫ 𝜌(𝑢2 + 𝑤 2 )𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
𝐿 −ℎ 0 2
2
𝜌 0 𝐿 𝑔𝑎𝑘 cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
= ∫ ∫ ( cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡))
2𝐿 −ℎ 0 𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
2
𝑔𝑎𝑘 sinh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
+( sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)) 𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ

𝜌 𝑔𝑎𝑘 2 0 𝐿
= ( ) ∫ ∫ cosh2 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) cos 2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝐿 𝜔 cos 𝑘ℎ −ℎ 0
+ sinh2 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) sin2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡) 𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
Using trigonometric identities, it can be simplified as follows

𝜌 𝑔𝑎𝑘 2 0 𝐿 1 1
𝐾𝐸 = ( ) ∫ ∫ [cosh 2𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)] + 1][1 + cos 2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)] + [cosh 2𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)]
2𝐿 𝜔 cos 𝑘ℎ −ℎ 0 2 2
− 1][1 − cos 2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)] 𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧

𝜌 𝑔𝑎𝑘 2 0 𝐿
= ( ) ∫ ∫ 2[cosh 2𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) + cos 2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)] 𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
4𝐿 𝜔 cos 𝑘ℎ −ℎ 0

𝜌 𝑔𝑎𝑘 2 0 𝐿
= ( ) ∫ ∫ [cosh 2𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) + cos 2(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)] 𝑑𝑥 𝑑𝑧
2𝐿 𝜔 cos 𝑘ℎ −ℎ 0

By solving the integration and doing simplification then

1
𝐾𝐸 = 𝜌𝑔𝐻 2 𝐿
16
Energy Flux
1 𝜂
𝐹̅ = ∫ 𝑝 𝑢̅ 𝑑𝑧
𝑇 −ℎ 𝑑

1 𝑡 𝜂 𝑔𝑎𝑘
= ∫ ∫ 𝜌𝑔 𝜂 𝐾𝑝 ( 𝑓 (𝑧) cos 𝜃) 𝑑𝑧 𝑑𝑡
𝑇 0 −ℎ 𝜔 0

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Homework #3 Coastal Prediction and Analysis Theories
Faizal Ade Rahmahuddin Abdullah Student ID: 02212006
1 𝑡 𝜂 cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) 𝑔𝑘 cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
= ∫ ∫ 𝜌𝑔 𝜂 (𝜂 ) 𝑑𝑧 𝑑𝑡
𝑇 0 −ℎ cosh 𝑘ℎ 𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ

1 𝑡 𝜂 cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ) cosh 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)

= ∫ ∫ 𝜌𝑔 𝜂 (𝜂𝜔 ) 𝑑𝑧 𝑑𝑡
𝑇 0 −ℎ cosh 𝑘ℎ sinh 𝑘ℎ

To retain terms to the second order in wave height, it is only necessary to integrate up to the mean free
surface.

1 𝑡 0 cosh2 𝑘(𝑧 + ℎ)
𝐹̅ = ∫ ∫ 𝜌𝑔𝜂 2 𝜔 𝑑𝑧 𝑑𝑡
𝑇 0 −ℎ cosh 𝑘ℎ sinh 𝑘ℎ
𝜌𝑔𝜔 2 (2𝑘ℎ + sinh 2𝑘ℎ)
= 𝜂
4𝑘 sinh 2𝑘ℎ
𝜌𝑔 2 𝜔 1 2𝑘ℎ
= 𝜂 [ (1 + )]
4 𝑘 2 sinh 2𝑘ℎ
1 𝜔 1 2𝑘ℎ
= 𝜌𝑔𝐻 2 [ (1 + )]
8 𝑘 2 sinh 2𝑘ℎ
= 𝐸𝐶𝑛
where 𝐶𝑛 is the speed at which the energy is transmitted; this velocity is called the group velocity 𝐶𝑔 ,
for reasons to be explained shortly.

𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶

Or
𝐶𝑔 1 2𝑘ℎ
𝑛= = (1 + )
𝐶 2 sinh 2𝑘ℎ
1
The factor 𝑛 has as deep and shallow water asymptotes the values of 2 and 1, respectively. Therefore, in
deep water, the energy is transmitted at only half the speed of the wave profile, and in shallow water,
the profile and energy travel at the same speed.

4. Sd

5. d