PFAFF

hy 1016

17

13

2$

PFAFF

hohhy 106

19
Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1016

1 Thread guide
2 Bobbin winder tension
3 Needle thread tension
4 Adjustment field
5 Spool holder
6 Bobbin winder
7 Handwheel
8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot
9 Pattern adjustment button
10 Reverse key
11 Connection bushing
12 Master switch
box
13 Detachable work support with accessory
14 Needle plate
15 Thread guide
16 Thread guide
17 Thread cutter
18 Threading slot
19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)
20 Presser foot holder with presser foot
21 Free-arm
22 Feed dog
23 Needle holder with fixing screw
25 Thread guide
26 Presser bar lifter
27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)
28 Take-up lever
29 Carrying handle
 P’ease fold this page open to simplify the under
standing of this instruction manual when reading it.

ndex on pages 4 — 5
Sewing for fun

uct
Congratulations! You have bought a quality prod
made by Pfaff which is sure to bring you countless
The
hours of sewing pleasure. Your new sewmg mach
features the very latest in design and technology.
Furthermore, it has numerous practical features
which will make sewing much easier for you.
this
Your sewing machThe is as simple to operate as
instruction manual is to follow. Before you start sew
ns
Thg, please take the time to read these instructio
carefully. It is certainly time well spent, and is the
do
best way to find out just what your machine can
and make full use of all its features.
Pfaff
If you have any further questions, just ask your
dealer, who will be happy to assist you with help
or advice.
We wish you many enjoyable hours creatmg your
very own fashion ideas.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NSTRUCTONS
For the United States only
use only. When you
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD
always be adhered
use an electric appliance, the following basic safety precautions should
to: Read all instruc tions before using this sewing machin e.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

Always unplug this
1 The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
type rated 5 Watts.
2. Always unplug before replacing sewing light bulb. Replace bulb with same
immediately.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug
a tub or sink. Do not
4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into
place in or drop into water or other liquid.

s:
WAR NNG To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to person
this sewing machine is used
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Great care is necessary when
by or near children.
in this manual.
2. Only use this sewing machine for its intended purpose as described
in this manual
Only use attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained
cord or plug, if it is not working
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged
it been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to
properly, it has
for examination repair electrical or mechanical
the nearest authorized dealer or service center
adjustment.
ventilation openings of
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep
control free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth
the sewing machine and foot
5. Never drop or insert anything into any opening.
6. Do not use out of doors.
oxygen is being
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
administered .
plug from socket
8 To disconnect turn all controls to off ( 0 ) position then remove
on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be
9. Never operate
blocked.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug. hold the plug, not the cord.
the sewing machine
11 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around
needle.
needle to break.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
blunt needles. Only use needles recommende d by the manufacturer.
13. Do not use bent or
while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing if to break.
14. Do not pull or push fabric
(0”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as
15. Switch the sewing machine off
etc.
threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot,
covers, lubricating, or
16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing
user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual,
when making any other

Please also observe the general safety notes on Page 3.

KEEP THESE NSTRUCTONS N A SAFE PLACE

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines
The machines meet the relevant safety Environment
requirements. The recommended environment is:
1. The user must exercise adequate caution Ambient temperature 50°F (10°C) to 104°F
with regard to the up-and-down movement (40°C)
of the needle and constantly observe the Humidity: 20% to 80% Storage temperature -

sewing area during work. 13°F (- 25°C) to +140°F (60°C).

2. When leaving the machine, during mainte- The machine is insensitive to interference, but it
nance work or when changing mechanical should not be used in the direct vicinity of elec
parts or accessories, always disconnect the tronic appliances such as radios, televisions,
machine from the main power by unplug- personal computers, radio transmitters, etc.
ging the lead cord from the wall outlet,
This machine is a high quality electronic-
3. The maximum permissible wattage for the
mechanical appliance, It is a machine for su
sewing lamp is 15 watts.
pervised use in the home. It should be operated
4. An authorized PFAFF mechanic only must
in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust,
adjust the tension of the belt drive,
severe dampness, direct sunlight, static elec
5. The machine must be put into operation ac-
tricity, heat-producing oblects, corrosive chemi
cording to the indications on the specifica-
cals or liquids.
tion plate.
6 Do not insert any oblects into openings on For ventilation purposes the machine must be
the machine, used on an unobstructed, solid, level surface.
7. Do not use the machine if:
• there is visible damage Treatment
its’ functioning is disturbed, Always avoid damage to the machine by pro-
• it is wet, i.e. condensation which can oc- tecting it against hitting or dropping.
cur when a cold machine is installed in a
warm room. Cleaning
8. To unplug lead cord from wall socket, grasp
Housing:
the plug close to the wall. Do not pull the
For cleaning the housing use a dry, clean. soft
main plug out of the wall socket by the cord.
lint-free cloth. To remove any stubborn dirt, use
9 If the appliance is used for the wrong pur-
a soft cloth with alcohol,
pose or incorrectly operated, no liability can
be accepted for any possible damage. Please note!
10. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not
open the machine There are no parts in Do not use any insecticides or chemical pro
side the machine that the user can repair. ducts such as petrol (gas) or low-viscosity che
This is solely the responsibility of our quail- micals for cleaning the housing.
fled service staff.
11 Be sure to use only PFAFF original parts
12. The machine is designated for a mains
supply with a nominal voltage of
+1- 10% and a rated frequency of
1- 4 %.
13. When used properly, the temperature of
the outer components of a non-electroni
cally controlled foot control can reach up
to 85°C. Constant use at a low speed is
therefore not permitted in order to avoid
damage.
14. According to the laws concerning electro
magnetic compatibility, no liability can be
accepted for any mains interruptions cau
sed, should the mains power line be chan
ged or should changes be made to it.
 hobby — Sewingforfun

Index
A F
Accessories and needles 41 Feed dog, lowering 18
Accessory compartment 9 Felling foot 45
Foot control 8
Free arm 9

B
Bias tape binder 44
Bobbin case 12-13 G
Bobbin thread tension 13 Gathering with the straight stitch 30
Buttonholes 26-27 General sewing aids 22
Buttons 24

H
C Handwheel. releasing 10
Changing the needle 18 Hemming with the twin needle 28
Changing the sewing lamp 51 Hook, removing 50
Cleaning and oiling 50
Control panel 19
Cording foot 45 K
Knit-edge foot 46

D
Darning 31 L
Detachable work support 9 Lace-work 35
Drawing up the bobbin thread 16 Linen buttonhole 27
Linen buttonhole with gimp thread 27

E
Edge guide 22 M
Elastic stitch 25 Maintenance 49
Electrical connection 8 Master switch 8
 hobby — Sewing for fun

N Setting utility stitches 20

Needle charts 47-48 Sewing feet (normal accessories) 42

Needle plate, removing 51 Sewing feet (special accessories) 43

Needle thread tension 22 Sewing lamp 51
Sewing on patches 31
Sewing problems and their solutions 52
Shell edging 36
O
Oiling the machine 50 Smocking 29
Special accessories chart 43
Optional accessories
Spool placement 10
Stitch chart 6
Straight stitch 23
p
Patchwork quilt 39-40
Practical sewing 21
Presser bar lifter 15 T
Thread cutter 16
Thread tension 12
14-15
o Threading
46 Threading the needle thread 14
Quilt and patchwork foot
Topstitching 22
Traditional embroidery techniques 37
Troubleshooting 52
R
31 Twin needle 28
Repairing tears
Reverse sewing 20
Richelieu 38
Roll hemming 34 W
44 Winding the bobbin 10-11
Ruffler

S z
2 Zigzag stitch 23
Safety notes
23 Zippers 32-33
Serging with the zigzag stitch
 hobby — Sewing for fun

hobby 1016— Stitch chart

Program Name Application

34
Buttonhole A A2 A
1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses
1 3
2 and bed linen
B Straight stitch For all straight stitch
needle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 1 mm
Straight stitch For all straight stitch
needle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 2 mm
83 Straight stitch For all straight stitch
9 needle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 4 mm
C, -“-“--“ Zigzag- stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 2 mm

C Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 4 mm

3
C Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

D ,. ,. Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band,

darning tears and patches
Operating the machine
Bobbin winding 10-11
Bobbin case 12-13
Bobbin thread tension 13
Changing the needle 18
Changing the presser foot 17
Control panel 19
Detachable work support 9
Drawing up the bobbin thread 16
Electrical connection 8
Free arm 9
Lowering the feed dog 18
Needle thread tension 18
Presser bar lifter 15
Reverse serging 20
Setting the utility stitches 20
Threading the needle thread 14-15
Thread cutter 16
 Operating the machine
Carrying handle
Lift up the carrying handle of the sewing
machine from behind.

pFFF

Electrical connection
Connect the plug of the foot pedal to
the connection bushing (11) on the sew
ing machine and the electrical socket.
The sewing speed is regulated by press
ing the foot pedal. For this sewing ma
chine has to be used foot controller
YC-482 or TJC-1 50.

220 V

Master switch
The sewing lamp lights up when the mas
ter switch (12) is turned on. The machine
is now ready to sew.

8
 Operating the machine
Accessory compartment
The accessory compartment is found un-
derneath the detachable work support
(13), that has to be opened.
Removing the detachable work support
I free arm
In order to be able to sew with the tree
arm, you must swing the detachable work
support (13> to the left and lift it out of
the hole.
Organizing the accessories
Place the enclosed accessories into the
accessory compartment.
Inserting the detachable work support
Push the pins of the detachable work sup
port (13) from the left fully into the holes
provided.
When inserting the detachable work sup
port, make sure that it is flush with the free
arm of the sewing machine.
9
 Operating the rncwhine

a
iobbylOl6
Preparing the machine for bobbin
winding
Pull the handwheel (7) fully to the right.
This will prevent the needle moving while
the machine is winding the bobbin.
Mounting the bobbin
Switch off the master switch (12)
Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of the
bobbin winding mechanism and press it
down as far as possible. Push the bobbin
to the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound/fit

is moved fully to the right.

C
IH°
C

Winding the bobbin

Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.
Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin.
Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times.
Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal.
Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding
action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it
from the pin.
10
 Operating the machine

#i
I
Bobbin winder tension Winding a bobbin through the needle
Pass the thread through the bobbin thread It is possible to wind bobbins even when
tension (2) in a clockwise direction, so that the machine is threaded. Raise the press
it crosses over itself on the way to the er bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pull
bobbin. the thread underneath the presser foot.

1 i
I 1
(L
Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from
left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several
times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread firmly and
press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with
your finger.

Don’t forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!
II
 Operafi,1g the ,ncu’hjne

Hook cover Taking out the bobbin case

Switch off the master switch (12). Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull
the bobbin case out. Release the latch
Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and and take out the empty bobbin.
open it towards you.

Thread tension
In order to achieve a perfect seam ap
pearance and durability make sure the
needle and bobbin thread tensions are
correctly adjusted to each other, so that
the thread interlace is not visible on both
sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for general

sewing work:
Thread interlace is visible on the top side
of the fabric:
• The needle thread tension is too tight or
the bobbin thread tension is too loose.
• The thread tension must be corrected.
Thread interlace is visible on the under
side of the fabric:
• The needle thread tension is too loose
or the bobbin thread tension is too tight.
• The thread tension must be corrected.
For fancy stitches, buttonholes and
darning the thread interlace should be
visible on the underside of the fabric.

12
Operating the machine
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case.
When doing so, pull the thread sideways
through slot A and then under tension
spring B so that it rests in the opening
(see arrow).

Checking the bobbin thread tension

Hold the thread protruding from the bob
bin case and pull the thread upwards
sharply. The bobbin case must drop down
the thread during this movement.

Adjusting the setting:

Using the screwdriver from the accesso
ries, turn setting screw C just a little to
the left to decrease the bobbin thread ten
sion.
Turn setting screw C just a little to the right
to increase the bobbin thread tension.

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift latch D and push the bobbin case fully
onto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbin
case finger F must point into cutout G.

Check:
Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin
case must not fall out of the hook.

13
 Operating the machine
Threading the needle thread
Switch off the master switch (1 2).
Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the
thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26).
Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever

J
(28) is at its highest position.
Thread by following the steps A to E.

PFAFF Tip:
All the thread guides have an opening in
which you can simply lay the threads.

14
Operating the machine
Threading the needle
Thread the needle thread through the eye
of the needle from the front to the back.

Presser bar lifter

The presser foot is raised and lowered
with the presser bar lifter (26).

I’;
 ____

Operating the nachine

Drawing up the bobbin thread
bQ’d Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle
‘ thread and turn the handwheel towards
you until the needle is at its highest posi
tion and the bobbin thread has formed a
loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the
1 bobbin thread

Bobbin thread

I Close the hook cover (19) and pull the

thread under the presser foot to the left.

I
I -

/ L
Thread cutter
Pull the thread from the back to the front
over the thread cutter (17).

]6
 Operatin.g the machhie
Removing the presser foot
Switch off the master switch (12).
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Press the front of the presser foot up and
the rear of the presser foot down until it
disengages from the presser foot holder
(20).

Attaching the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser
foot holder (20) so that when the presser
bar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of the
foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check:
Please check that the presser foot is prop
erly attached by raising the presser bar
lifter.

c_4t I
4

17
 Operaüng the machine
Changing the needle
Switch off the master switch (12).
To remove: Lower the presser foot and
set the needle to its highest point. Loosen
the fixing screw (23) and pull the needle
downwards.

To insert: The flat side A of the needle

must face to the rear. Lower the presser
foot and insert the needle, pushing it up
as far as it will go. Hold the needle and
tighten the fixing screw (23) firmly.

Setting the neecile thread tension

Set the required amount of the needle
J thread tension (3) using the markings on
the tension dial.
The normal setting for sewing is 4-5.
For embroidery and buttonhole sewing be
PFAFF tween 2 and 3.

Lowering the feed dog

For certain sewing work, such as sewing
on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be
lowered. To do this, open the hook cover
I44IiiR (19) and move the metallic slide to the
right-hand position (B) by pushing it down
wards and then to the right. To engage the
feed dog, push down the slide and lock it
into the left-hand position (A).

18
I
 Operating the machine

hobby 1016

Control panel
ns are depicted on the
All the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendatio
s progra ms are selected using the
control panel of your sewing machine. The variou
stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left.

‘9
 Operating the machine

Setting utitity stitches

All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern
chart (8).
Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning
the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment field (4).

Reverse sewing
The machine sews in reverse only as long
as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.

20
Utility stitches
and practical sewing
Buttonholes 26-27
Darning 31
Elastic stitch 25
Gathering 30
General sewing aids 22
Hemming with the twin needle 28
Lace work 35
Non-elastic stitches 23
Roll hemming 34
Sewing on buttons 24
Shell edging 36
Smocking 29
Zippers 32 33

2?
 Utility stitches wid pruc&aI sewing
Needle thread tension
In order to achieve a perfectly sewn seam,
the needle thread and bobbin thread ten
sions must be correctly adjusted to each
other. The normal setting for utility stitches

PFA F F j is in the range from 4 to 5.

Check the tension using a wide zigzag
stitch. The thread interlace must be be-
tween the two layers of fabric.
If the needle thread tension is too tight,
the interlace will be on the top side of the
fabric.
If the needle thread tension is set too
loose, the interlace will be on the reverse
side of the fabric.
The adjustment of the bobbin thread ten.
4 sion is described on page 15.

Topstitching with the edge guide

(special accessories)
For broad topstitching work we recom
mend using the edge guide. This ac
cessory guarantees topstitching which is
parallel to the edge of the fabric. The edge
guide is inserted into hole C and is se
cured with fixing screw F

Feed aid for thick seams

To ensure precise feeding at the begin
ning of a thick seam, we recommend plac
ing a piece of fabric which is the same
thickness as the work under the back of
the sewing toot to support it.

22
 Utility titches and practical sewing

4
r .

Straight stitch Zigzag stitch

Program B is the basic straight stitch in C: stitch length 0.5 mm; stitch width 2 mm
center needle position. 02: stitch length 1.5 mm; stitch width 4
mm
Use adjustment button to select: 03: stitch length 1.5 mm; stitch width 5 mm
B: stitch length 1 mm
: stitch length 2 mm
2
B
Tip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particularly
B: stitch length 4 mm suitable for serging thin materials. While
sewing, the thread passes over the bar
thus preventing the fabric edge from roll
ing up. This ensures a good, smooth
seam. The trimmed edge must be guided
along the stop. You can adjust the stop
with the retaining screw.

23
 Utility stitches wtd practtctd sewing

fi

Sewing on buttons Sewing on buttons with a thread shank

For sewing on buttons, the presser foot
must be removed and the feed dog must
be lowered (ci. page 20).
Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch
02, by turning the stitch adjustment
button (9).
• Attach the presser foot.
• Place a match between the holes in the
button and sew as described in the left
hand column on this page.
• Remove the match and pull the fabric
and the button apart.
• Wrap the shank with the sewing thread
and knot it.

24
 Utility stiteiws and prarticai sewing
Elastic stitch
Stitch D
Because of its high elasticity, this stitch is
used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on
underwear; skirt, trouser and dress waist
bands: and cuffs.
If replacing elastic, cut off old elastic
close to its edge.
• If needed, gather the fabric edge with the
4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 30).
4 • Divide fabric and elastic into quarters
and mark. You may find it easier to han
dle if you pin the elastic to the fabric at
the matching marks.
• Stretch the elastic to fit the fabric,
matching marks as you sew.
• Overlap the ends slightly and secure
with the elastic stitch.
• On skirts and pants (trousers) the
elastic is sewn onto the prepared edge
with the elastic stitch.

25
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes
does
Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric
end the
not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recomm
buttonhole foot.
ary to
Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric, However, it is necess
paper
additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing
so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.
Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer
feed
that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics that
fabric. The material is thus fed more
poorly it can be used either on or underneath the
e
efficiently by the machin and button holes are much easier to sew.
seams.
Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive
Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always
sew a test buttonhole first.

Note:
far
Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward as
go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5 cm apart.
as it will
The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the buttonhole.
Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as
your project.

26
 Utility stitches mu! practical sewing

iwri .

412 / A
3 /A
Program A 1 Linen buttonhole with gimp thread
To sew especially durable buttonholes,
Sewing buttonholes with the button
e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using
hole foot
a gimp thread.
Linen buttonhole On elastic materials the gimp thread is
• Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the particularly important to prevent the but
foot forward as far as it will go. tonhole from stretching.
• Position the pattern adjustment dial at • Lay the gimp thread over the rear pro
1 and sew the first buttonhole seam in
A trusion A and pass the thread ends un
the desired length. derneath the presser foot towards the
• Select setting A112 and sew 4-6 stitches front.
for the bartack. Make sure the fabric • Clamp the threads to the left and right
stays in position while doing this. of protrusion B.
- 3 and sew the second
Select setting A • Slide the buttonhole runner as far for
buttonhole seam in the reverse direction wards as possible and sew the but
and in the same length. tonhole as described in the left hand
* Select setting A42 again and sew a few column.
bartack stitches while making sure the • Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the
fabric stays in position. buttonhole and trim the thread ends.
• Select straight stitch setting B1 and sew
a few tying off stitche s. Make sure the
fabric stays in positio n.
Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of
a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.

Tip: In order to prevent damaging the bar-

tack by cutting open the buttonhole, insert
a pin into the bartack.
27
 L’iihtv stir he s u,id pru ttci1 euH

• —I—
i
Il ..—.

_,*•_,*.
I •.* .
*

/ i*•
I I

Hemming with the twin needle Threading the twin needle

Topstitching work can be carried out on • Place a spool on each of the spool pins.
normal and stretch materials with the twin • Pass both of the threads through the
needle. thread guides (cf. page 14).
Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear • Lay the threads behind the thread
and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly guides (15) and (16) and thread one of
and easily with the twin needle. The the threads into each of the right and
twin needle is available in various widths. left needles.
Please ensure that you use the jersey
needle for stretch fabrics!
First fold and iron the width of fabric
desired for the hem.
Topstitch the hem from the face side.
Cut the protruding hem edge fabric
close to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as ribbed

knitwear it is advisable to baste the hem
before topstitching it.

28
Utility stifehet and practical sewing

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon
and silk are especially suitable for beau
tiful smocking work. For smocking work
with elastic thread you should use an ad
ditional bobbin case and wind it by hand
with the elastic thread. As the elastic
thread is much stronger than the normal
bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin
case must be set very loose. Dont forget
however, the higher the bobbin thread ten
sion, the tighter the gathering effect.
• Sew a test seam to determine the level
of gather.
Mark the first line on the face side of the
fabric and sew along it.
• Each additional seam can be sewn at a
presser foot’s width from the first row.
• When sewing several seams next to one
another, you must stretch the fabric to
its original length when sewing the sub
sequent seams. Otherwise the gather
will be irregular.
Knot the threads at the beginning and
end of the seam on the reverse side.

29
 Utilily stirche.s atid practical sewing

Gathering with the straight stitch

With program B 3 you can gather sleeves,
skirts and valances with a stitch length of
4 mm. To ensure a consistent gathering
effect you should sew two or three rows
of gathers.
• Mark the first line on the face side of
the fabric and sew along it. Allow the
threads to extend approx. 10-20 cm be
yond the ends of the fabric.
• Each subsequent seam can be sewn
one presser foot width from the last.
Gather the piece of fabric by pulling
the bobbin thread. You determine the
amount of gather by how much you pull
the thread.
Secure the gathers by knotting the
thread ends.

30
Utility titches and practical sewing

Darning with the elastic stitch D

Darning with the elastic stitch is especially
suitable for repairing damaged areas.
• Sew over the damaged area in rows un
til it is well covered. Take care to ensure
that the rows overlap.

Repairing tears
On tears, frayed edges or small holes it
is useful to lay a piece of fabric under
the reverse side of the fabric. The under
laid fabric reinforces the workpiece and
ensures you a perfect repair.
• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the
material. It must always be a little larger
than the damaged area.
• Sew over the damaged area in accord
ance with the size of the tear.
• Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back
to the seam.

Sewing on patches
To cover larger holes well, it is necessary
WW* to sew a new piece of fabric onto the dam
aged area.
• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the
damaged area of the face side of the
fabric.
• Sew over the fabric edges with the elas
tic stitch.
- Trim the damaged area back to the
seam from the reverse side of the fabric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of the

patch, turn the handwheel until the needle
is in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and
pivot the fabric.

3’
 Utility titche and practical sewing
Sewing in zippers For all types of zip
There are different ways to sew in zippers. pers it is important
For skirts we recommend inserting a cen to sew close to
tered zipper. For men’s or ladies’ pants the teeth of the zip
(trousers), a lapped zipper works best. Dif per. The zipper foot
ferent types of zippers are available in (optional accesso
retail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, jeans ry) can be engaged
and outerwear to name a few. We rec in the foot holder to
ommend. metal zippers for heavier fabrics the left or right, de
such as jeans. For all other materials a pending on the method of insertion.
plastic zipper will work well and create a
softer finish to your completed garment.

A
p

Inserting centered zippers
(concealed on both sides)
• Attach the zipper foot (optional acces
sory) to the right side.
• Baste or pin the zipper in place and
position it under the presser foot so
that the teeth run along the side of the
presser foot.
• Sew in half of the zipper, leaving the
needle in the material. Raise the press
er foot and close the zipper.
• You can now sew the rest of the seam
to the end of the zipper and stitch the
cross-wise seam.
• Sew the second half of the zipper paral
lel, the same distance from the center
seam as the first half.
Stop shortly before the end of the seam
and leave the needle in the material.
Raise the presser foot and open the
zipper.
• You will now be able to complete the
seam.

32
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
1? -.
Trouser zippers
• Press the left front seam allowance over
1I8 (4 mm) narrower than the actual
seam allowance.
• Baste the zipper under the overlapping
edge so that the teeth are still visible.
• Engage the zipper foot on the right and
set the needle to the required position.
• Stitch close to the edge of the zipper
teeth.
Shortly before the end of the seam,
open the zipper and finish sewing the
seam.
• Close the zipper and baste the overlap
evenly onto the other zipper half.
• Stitch along the basted seam.
Tip: To achieve accurate seams we rec
ommend using the edge guide (special
accessories).
33
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Roll hemming
With the roll hemmer (special accesso
ries) you can finish the edge of blouses,
scarves, or ruffles without having to iron
the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents
the edges from fraying and produces a
neat and durable edge finish.
• Double-fold the fabric edge
(about 11872 mm per fold).
• Place the folded fabric edge under the
hemmer and sew a few straight stitches
B, to secure.
• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the
presser foot and insert the fabric into
the hemmer foot scroll.
• Lower the presser foot and while sew
ing, guide the fabric edge evenly into
the hemmer. Ensure the fabric does not
run underneath the right side of the
presser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics,

the roll hem is particularly attractive with a
zigzag stitch.

34
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Lace-work
Lace inserts
A beautiful heirloom effect can be
achieved on christening wear, children’s
clothes and other garments with lace in
serts.
• Baste the lace to the face side of the
fabric.
Stitch very close to both edges of the
lace using straight stitch.
• Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace
at the center. Press these edges to
wards the garment.
• Overstitch both edges of the lace with a
small zigzag stitch.
• Cut away the excess fabric on the back
of your project.

Lace edges with corners

Tablecloths, napkins and clothing can all
be beautifully enhanced with lace trim
mings.
• Serge/clean-finish the fabric edges.
• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the
fabric up till the first corner.
• Fold over the corners and stitch them
diagonally.
Continue until all edges are stitched.

35
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton

Shell edging
thread at the edge you can strengthen
The shell edge is very effective for thin, the shell edging and obtain a pretty con
soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric. trast at the same time. Instead of pearl
It is frequently used as an edge finish cotton thread you can also place a differ
on undergarments. The tighter the bobbin ent colored light fabric underneath.
thread tension is set, the farther the shell
edge will pull in.
Serge the fabric edge and iron over the
seam allowance.
• Make sure that the fabric runs under the
presser foot at half of the foot width.
This provides a more prominent shell
edging effect.

36
Traditional embroidery
techniques
Patchwork quilt 39 40
Richelieu 38

37
 T,,dirionc,1 e1nb,y)derv Iechniquev
Richelieu
This very artistic form of bar and eyelet
embroidery is easy to create with your
T j
sewing machine.
• Transfer your pattern onto the right side
I of the fabric using a fabric marker.
• Place two layers of water-soluble stabi
lizer under the area to be embroidered
and tightly hoop the fabric and stabi
lizer.
• Attach foot number 0 to your machine,
• To make the embroidery more stable,
sew all of the contours twice using the
straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1
mm).
• Carefully cut away the fabric from the
areas that will form the cutouts approxi
mately 1/8” (2 mm) from stitching. Do
not cut away the stabilizer it helps
—

maintain the shape and stability of

the areas while
sewing.
• Embroider the contours with a satin
stitch zigzag.
• When all satin stitching is completed,
tear away large areas of water-soluble
stabilizer and dissolve remaining small
areas in water.

38
rraditional ernbividery techniques
Patchwork quilt
Quilting is a traditional hand sewing tech
nique. The method that the wives of Amer
ican settlers developed to make use of
material remnants has become a very
popular artistic hobby for many sewing en
thusiasts.
Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclu
sively by hand. Nowadays, however, you
have the possibility to make your creative
ideas a reality in a much shorter time.
A quilt always consists of three layers
of material, Lots of geometrically shaped
pieces of material are joined together in
continually changing patterns to form the
top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto
the middle layer of polyester or cotton bat
ting and connected to the back layer of
the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one
uniform piece of fabric.

3v
 Traditional embroidery iechniques
And this is what you do
Cut out the pieces of your quilt top us
ing templates you have bought or made
yourself. A seam allowance of 1/4 (6.3
mm) should already be included in the
templates.
Spread these pieces out in front of you
in accordance with the pattern and form
small squares which you can then put
together. These squares will then be
sewn together and will form the top ply
of the quilt.
The seam allowances of quilts are usu
ally not serged and are always pressed
towards the darker fabric side.
Baste the completed quilt top to the
batting and backing. In traditional quilts
these three layers of material are
then sewn together by hand with
small stitches. However, it is quicker
and more practical with the sewing
machine, i.e. with the straight stitch.
Quilting is usually stitched about
3 mm away from the seam. Use foot
number 0 or the quilt and patchwork
foot (see page 46).
When the quilting is finished you can
simply bind the edges or make it into
cushions, wearable art or other smaller
projects.

4()
Accessories and needles
Bias binder 44
Cording foot 45
Felling foot 45
Knit-edge foot 46
Needle chart 47-48
Quilting and patchwork foot 46
Ruffler 44
Sewing feet 42
Optional accessories chart 43

-II
 AccessorIe3 and needles
Sewing feet
-

Standard presser foot (included)

- ----.

O
--

Part no: 98-694 847-00

3 Blind-stitch foot (optional)

) Part no 98 694 845 00
--—

4 Zipper foot (optional)

Part no 98 694 843 00

5 Buttonhole foot (included)

Part no: 98-694 882-00

Screwdriver Part no: 93-040 971-41

Bobbins Part no: 93-040 970-45
Machine oil Part no: 93-035 910-91
Knife Part no: 99-053 016-91
Needle system Part no: 48-020 804-32
1301705 H
42
 Accessories and needles

Sewing feet (optional accessories)

from your
The optional accessories are for special sewing work. They are available
dealer.

Designation Order no. Sewing work

Pintuck foot with guide 93-036 942-91 For embroidering
areas between
pintucks

PIntuck foot, 5 grooves 93-042 950-9 1 For pintuck work

(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-20)
Pntuck foot, 7 grooves 93-042 953-9 1 For pintuck work
(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) (needle size 80)
Straight stitch foot with round hole 98-694 821 -00 Attention! Only use
straight stitch in needle
position middle

Finger guard 93-036 910-91 For all sewing work

Edge guide 98-802 422-00 For topstitching

Felling foot 4,5 mm 93-042 946-91 For flat felled seams

Felling foot 6.5 mm 93-042 948-9 1 For flat felled seams

Fancy stitch foot 98-694 864-0 1 Multiple uses

e.g. for buttonholes
RuffIcr 98-999 650-00 For sewing dense
(remove presser foot holder) or broad pleats on
valances etc.

Cording foot 93-036 915-91 For cording

Quilt foot 93-036 925-91 For sewing

patchwork parts
and quilting
Roll hemmer 2 mm 98-694 873-00 For hemming edges

Roll foot 91-046 703-03/001 For materials

which are difficult to feed
(e.g. leather)
Hemmer 4 mm 98-694 823-00 For hemming edges

Hemmer 98-694 818-00 For hemming edges

Bias binder 98-053 484-91 For binding edges

with bias tape
Knit-edge toot 93-042 957-91 For sewing together
knitwear
Non-stick foot 93-036 91 7-91 For sewing leather

feet.
The following pages contain application examples of some optional accessory

43
 Accessories and needles

Bias tape binder Ruffler

Binding with bias tape is a very easy
method of giving fabric edges a smooth
and neat appearance. For this you need
unfolded bias tape about 1’ (24 mm) wide.
• Remove the presser toot and holder. At
tach the bias binder.
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a
diagonal.
• Feed the tape into the scroll of the bind
er and pull out to the back.
• Adjust the binder and/or the needle po
sition so that the needle pierces the
fabric approximately 1/16” (1-1.5 mm)
from the folded edge of the bias tape.
• Stitch about 1,’ (2.5 cm) along the bias
tape.
• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound
between the bias tape edges into the
slot of the binder. The bias tape will
enclose the raw edge automatically dur
ing sewing.
With the ruttIer you can make closely or
widely spaced pleats automatically while
sewing. This is very useful for ruffles, frills,
home textiles, etc.
The ruttIer can be used in three different
ways:
1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric.
2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing to
a second fabric in one operation.
3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching lace
and securing to another fabric in one
operation.
When you buy the ruttIer from your PFAFF
dealer, full operating instructions are in
cluded.

Tip: You can obtain an additional deco

rative effect by using a zigzag or fancy
stitch.

44
 Accessories and needles
Felling foot
Flat felled seams are particularly strong
and are commonly known as jeans
seams. Seams on sportswear and chil
dren’s wear, blouses and shirts are more
durable with this technique. You can make
these seams particularly decorative by us
ing a sewing thread of a contrasting color.
The felling foot is available in two different
widths.
• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot
holder.
• Place the fabrics wrong sides together.
• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by
about3f8to5/8(1-1.5cm).
Place this overlapping edge over the
tongue of the felling foot. The fabric
must be placed fully under the presser
foot.
Sew along the folded edge with a
straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm).
• Separate the fabric and feed the pro
truding hem into the felling foot. The
hem is turned over by the foot and is
overstitched along the edge. Pull the
two fabric layers taut during sewing.
2
,$
-
Cording foot
Cording is a technique in which pearl
thread or a fine cord is overstitched to
produce a purl seam. With this you can
obtain an effect similar to braiding. Ap
pliqués can also be made more effective
with this seam.
• Attach the cording foot.
• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it
leads through one of the grooves at the
front and lies under the presser foot at
the back.
• Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch,
1 with the pattern adjustment
stitch A
button (9).
Overstitch the pearl thread with a nar
row satin zigzag stitch. This produces
what is known as the purl seam.
Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable
effect by overstitching a medium pear!
thread with a thread of a different color.
45
 ,4ceesso,’ic, and need1e.
Knit-edge foot
As the knit-edge foot has a presser foot
sole of varying height, thick knitted fabrics
can be sewn with ease. To do so select
the zigzag stitch. In order to obtain a
perfect seam on knit fabrics, we recom
mend oversewing a wool thread, pulled
slightly taut, into the seam. This will give
the seam additional strength and keep it
from stretching out of shape.
46
‘5.5
Quilt and patchwork foot
The quilt and patchwork foot allows you
to sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8” seams. The
distance from the needle to the outer right
edge of the foot is 1/4” (0.63 cm) and to
the inner right edge 1/8’ (0.31 cm).
Patching
Attach the quilt and patchwork foot.
Sew together your pieces of fabric with
the straight stitch. For a seam allowance
of 1/4”. guide your fabric along the outer
right edge of the foot. For a seam allow
ance of 1/8”. guide your fabric along the
inner right edge of the foot.
Quilting
(Sewing through the top layer, fleece layer
and bottom layer of the quilt)
• Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g.
with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm
from the seam line.
 ,4ccecsoriiy and needles

Need’e chart
Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight

light medium heavy
Needle Needle Needle
60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120

Needle points
System & No. Profile Point and eye Suitable for
130/705 H Light Universal needle for linen, chiffon,
Needle size 70/80 ball point batiste, organdy, woolens. velvet.
fancy seams and embroidery.
130/705 H-SUK Medium Coarse knitted fabrics. Lastex. double-
Needle size 70/110 ball point knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.

130/705 H-PS Medium Stretch-fabric needle particularly

Needle size 75+90 ball point suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.

130/705 H-SK1 ____— Large Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex

Needle size 70/110 ball point arid Lastox.

130/705 HJ __— Sharp Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics,

Needle size 90-110 round point blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf goat skin.

Needle size 70-120 point (right)

130/705 H-PCL Narrow wedge Imitation leather, plastics,

Needle size 80-1 10 point (left)) foils and oilcloth.

130 H-N Light ball Topatitching with buttonhole silk or

Needle size 70-110 point with synthetic threads no. 30/3.
long eye
1301705 H-WING _..... Hemstitching Effective hemstitching on batiste,
Needle size 100 point organdy and glass cambric.

130/705 H-E Medium Especially for embroidery.

Needle size 75/90 —wEFE bail point

1301705 H-O Small Top-stitched seams for quilting.

Needle size 75 EEEE ball point

130/705 H-M — Sharp For working on microtex fiber.

Needle size 60-80 z round point

47
 Accessories and needles

Needle chart

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for

q spacing
130/705 H-ZWI 2.5mm 1.6mm normal pintucks
Size: 80 2,5 mm 2.0 mm normal pintucks
130/705 H-ZW1
Size: 80 2.5 mm 2.5 mm wide pintucks
Size: 90 2.5 mm 3.0 mm extra wide
Size: 100 3,0 mm 4.0 mm pintucks

Fancy patterns with twin needles

Before sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate
freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as
possible.

p Ornamental stitch patterns I zigzag patterns

Suitable for
JJ Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle
spacing

Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm wide 1.6 mm embroidery

Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.0 mm embroidery
Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.5 mm embroidery

Hem stitch I special twin needle

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for
spacing
130/705
H-ZWI-HO
Size: 80 2.3-3.0 mm verry narrow — Decorative
Size: 100 2.0-3.0 mm verry narrow — hem stitch effect.
Well-finished
woven fabric
and tine
batiste are
particularly
suitable

48
Maintenance and
troubleshooting
Changing the sewing lamp 51
Cleaning and oiling 50
Removing the needle plate 51
Troubleshooting 52

49
 A4azntenancc wzd troubleshooting

Removing the hook Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.
Switch off the master switch (12).
To unlock the hook, fold open the black
bar of the hook race. Take out the bobbin
case.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until the

needle is at its highest position.

You can now remove the hook. Cleaning and oiling

• Clean the hook race with the brush.
• Place one drop of oil into the hook race
(every 15-20 hours of operation).
The machine is maintenance-free and
must not be oiled at any other points.

50
 Wainienance and troubleshooting
Removing the needle plate
Raise the presser foot holder (26) and
remove the presser foot. The needle must
be at its highest position.
• Remove the detachable work support
(13). Loosen the two screws with the
screwdriver and lift the needle plate (14).
• Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

Changing the sewing lamp.

I Switch off the master switch (12).
Remove the detachable work support
(13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is located
inside the needle head of the machine.
Turn the bulb half a rotation counter
clock-wise and remove the bulb. Insert
the bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissible

:
wattage of the bulb is 15 watts.

5’
 Maintenance and troubleshooting
Sewing problems and their solutions
Problem/Cause
1. The machine skips stitches
The needle is not properly inserted.
Wrong needle is in use.
Needle is bent or blunt.
The machine is not properly threaded.
Needle is too small for thread.
2. Needle thread breaks
See reasons above.
Thread tension is too tight.
Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has
become dry after overlong storage.
Thread is too thick.
3. Needle breaks off
Needle is not pushed fully in.
Needle is bent.
Needle is too thick or too thin.
Needle is bent, and has hit the needle
plate because you are pulling
or pushing the fabric.
The bobbin case is not properly inserted,
4. The seam is sewn unevenly
The tension needs adjusting,
Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.
The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.
Thread loops at top or underside of fabric. Re4hread machine.
5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly
Sewing lint has collected between
the feed dog teeth rows,
6. The machine is running with difficulty
There are thread remnants
in the hook ways.
Remedy
Push needle fully upwards. Flat side
facing the back.
Use needle system 130/705 H.
Insert a new needle.
Check how the machine is threaded.
Use a larger needle.
See above.
Adjust thread tension.
Only use good quality threads.
Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).
Insert new needle and push fully in.
Insert new needle.
See needle table (Page 59, 60).
Only guide the fabric lightly.
When you insert the bobbin case,
push it fully into the stop.
Pull lightly on the end of the thread to
make sure bobbin case is secure.
Check needle and bobbin thread tensions.
Only use good quality threads.
Do not wind thread by hand.
Make sure thread is pulled solidly into
bobbin tension spring.
Check the needle and bobbin thread
tensions.
Remove needle plate,
remove lint with brush.
Remove the threads and apply a drop
of oil to the hook.

Important notes:
Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be switched off.
Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot.
When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch.
This is important if there are any children nearby
52
TechncaI Data
Dimensions (w x h x d) 392 x 149 x 296 mm
Weight 6,6 kg
Nominal voltage 120 V / 220.240 V
Power consumption 80 W
Sewing lamp 15W
Sewing speed max. 900 stitches / mm.
Stitching width max. 5 mm
Stitching length max. 4 mm
Presser foot lift 5 mm
Max. presser foot height 11,5 mm
Needle system 130 / 705 H

Package contents
Sewing machine
Foot control
Lead cord
Accessories
Instruction manual