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Emil de Guzman, a
Filipino-American activist from San
Francisco, describes the role of the Vigan’s public market is just the
public market in Philippine towns: In latest iteration of the city’s history as a
the Philippines at the heart of any city trading and market center, going back
or town is a plaza. At the centre of all centuries. Vigan is one of the oldest
activity is the palengke, a huge one cities in the Philippines, and was
story structure housing the local founded by Chinese traders long
before the arrival of the Spaniards. In distributed and sold in a modern city,
the language of these migrants from the market is still a destination for
Fujian Province, the name Bi-gan thousands of people. Its prices are
meant Beautiful Shore. lower than most other places, and the
experience of buying something is
In Vigan they traded gold and
much more personal. In the
beeswax from the Cordilleras, the
interactions between stall owners and
mountain range that forms the spine of
their customers, it’s clear that in many
Luzon, for Chinese porcelain and other
cases people have known each other
goods. The status of the Chinese
for years.
ethnic minority in the Philippines is still
controversial. The Chinese community I’ve always loved our farmers’
even established a museum in Manila, markets, especially ones like those in
Oakland where older Chinese women
arguing that their presence was a crowd the stalls, attracted by the
crucial part of Philippine history and market’s lower prices. I’ve often
that Chinese workers helped build the wondered whether this institution will
still be with us in another 20 or 30
country over centuries. years. Walking through the public
markets of the Philippines, I can see a
The Spaniards colonised the way that people have been able to
islands, capturing Vigan in 1572, and institutionalise markets like it, keeping
making it the administrative capital of its people-serving purpose intact.
Looking at these photographs, I can
northern Luzon, called Nueva Segovia. see a little of what might be Oakland’s
By then a central market here was future here in Vigan.
long established. It provided a critical
NARVACAN FARMERS MARKET
function for farmers, who brought food
into the city, and for the city dwellers
who depended on them. All over the
world similar markets have come into
being to fulfil the same function.