LESSON 2

PERFORM APPLICATION OF FACIAL MAKE-UP

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals with the sanitary rules to be observed in the proper care of cosmetics and materials and
the processes involved in make-up application.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:
 Sanitize hand before actual application of make-up;
 Prepare make-up tools, supplies and materials according to patron’s make-up requirements;
 Define/contour eyebrow according to facial shape or patron’s preference using appropriate tools;
 Define patron’s face using appropriate cleansing product
 Apply concealing product/cosmetics make-up and foundation to cover dark spots of the face according to
patron’s skin tone; and
 Select and apply appropriate make-up products and accessories in standard sequence/procedure with
salon products.

LET US STUDY!
 Definition of Terms
 Sanitize – to clean and free from germs.
 Contour – the outline shaping the brows.
 Cleansing – process of removing dirt.
 Toning – the process of removing the dirt adhering to the face.
 Moisturizing – the process of closing the pores, to soften the skin and relieve skin tautness.
 Make up – to enhance and accentuate our facial features.

 Sanitize hand before actual application of facial make-up.

 Make sure that your fingers and hands are clean before applying make-up or cosmetics. Likewise, sponges,
brushes and applicators must be properly cleaned before using.

MAKE-UP TOOLS, SUPPLIES, MATERIALS:

For the make-up application to be perfect, appropriate tools, supplies and materials are to be considered.
Using the right tools, supplies and materials will ensure that your make-up looks as professional as it can. You
should have:
 Contour brushes, blushes and shaders;
 Eyeshadow brushes or sponge and tip applicators for powdered shadows;
 Lip brushes, which have a chisel end, are the most accurate tool for applying lip color;
 An eyebrow brush to train brows and to brush off excess powder;
 Sponge either natural or synthetic, to apply cake foundation;
 Powder puffs for applying both loose and compressed face powder;
 Cotton wool balls or cotton swabs, for blending colours and shadows;
 Tweezers, eyelash curlers and cosmetic pencil sharpeners; make-up kit, to place in all the tools and
supplies.

Cosmetics:
 Cleansing cream – used to remove the dirt adhering to the skin.
 Toner – used to remove any remaining grease, dirt or make-up lift after cleansing.
 Moisturizer - used to keep the skin smooth, soft, elastic and gives it a fresh youthful look.
 Foundation – used as a base for make-up.
 Pressed powder – used to keep the make-up set.
 Eye shadow - used to brighten the eyes and to compliment the wardrobe.
 Cheek rouge – used to transform the shape of your face and give a soft warm glow.
 Eyeliner – used to modify the shape of the eyes to make it look bigger.
 Mascara – used to make the eyelashes look longer, fuller and thicker.
 Lipstick – used to color and contour the lips.

Materials:
 Apron – used to protect operator’s dress.
 Headband – used to prevent the hair from falling in the face
 Neck cape – used to protect patron’s dress from getting soiled
 Beauty spatula – used to get cream cosmetics from the jar

Supplies:
 Tissue – used to wipe off excess moisture and applied cream
 Cotton – used to absorb liquid cosmetics.
HOW CAN YOUR EYEBROWS HELP ENHANCE YOUR EYES?
The eyebrows help to protect the eyes from moisture and dust, and to cushion the skin from physical
injury. Misshaped bushy eyebrows give an untidy appearance to the face; but when correctly shaped, the brows
give balance to the facial features and enhance the eyes which is most expressive feature of the face.

WAYS TO SHAPE AND CONTOUR EYEBROWS:

 Eyebrow Plucking – the process of shaping the eyebrow with use of eyebrow tweezers.
 Eyebrow shaving – the process of shaping the eyebrow with the use of eyebrow blade.
 Waxing – the process of shaping the eyebrow with the used of wax depilatories.
 Threading – the process of shaping the eyebrow with the use of thread.

CHOOSING AN EYEBROW SHAPE:

The eyebrows should be in balance with the rest of the facial features: the right brow shape for each patron
will depend on her facial proportions and her natural brow shape.

There is no single ideal eye brow shape. Different eye brow shapes are:

Angular Arched

Thick Thin

Medium Oblique

Rounded Straight

BROW SHAPES
You cannot change the bone structure of the facial features without cosmetic surgery, but eye brow shaping
can create the illusion of improved facial balance and proportion.

Heart Pear
 Your daily skin care routine is designed to keep your skin healthy and clean. The grid below may serve
very useful to you in maintaining a young, healthy, fresh-looking skin.

PERSONAL SKIN CARE PLAN

OILY SKIN COMBINATION SKIN DRY SKIN

To counteract To reduce oil in greasy To replenish the oil and to

overactive sebaceous areas without stripping prevent moisture from
Objective glands without oil from dry areas Evaporating.
dehydrating the
skin
Choose an oil-free soap or Choose a creamy lotion Choose a creamy lotion or
a water-soluble lotion. with a light oil agent or a soap less cleanse once or
Cleanser Cleanse at least a soap less twice a day.
twice a day. cleansing bar Cleanse
twice a day.
Choose a toner containing Choose a gentle low- Choose an extra mild
Toner alcohol; use it twice a day. alcohol toner, use it alcohol-free toner, use it
twice a day. once a day
Use a light water-based Use a light Use a rich hydrating
Moisturizer moisturizer once a day. hydrating formula formula containing oil two
twice a day or three times a day
Use an oil- Use a gentle scrub mask Use a cream-based mild
absorbing scrub every two or three times a scrub once a week.
Exfoliant
other day; do not week.
exfoliate acne.

TIPS for the Patrons:

TEN (10) MINUTE SKIN CARE

Once you have developed your daily skin care routine it should only take a few minutes every morning and
night. Be sure that the products you use are correct for skin type.
 Always remove eye make-up before going to bed. Dampen a cotton wool pad or ball with remover and wipe
over the eye area. Do this gently and never pull or tug at the skin around the eyes which is very delicate.
You may need to go over the lids and lashes a few times until all traces of make-up are gone.
 Next cleanse your face thoroughly. If you suffer from spots or acne you may use a complexion brush to
unblock pores.
 Tone your skin with the appropriate formulation then apply a light film of moisturizer. Gently massage it in
and tissue off any excess.
 Moisturize your neck and throat, too, as the skin in these areas can easily become dry. Work the throat
towards the jaw.
 Always pluck your brows from underneath the natural arch and in the direction of the hair’s growth.
 Apply one of the special eye creams that reduce morning puffiness and swelling. These are usually made
from herb extracts

DIFFERENT TYPES OF MAKE-UP APPLICATION

 Day Make-up - A simple and ordinary make-up
Note: Any corrective work carried out should be very subtle and kept to the minimum, as natural light
makes any imperfection appear obvious.

 Evening Make-up - The application is darker, it should be applied bearing in mind the types of lighting in
which the patron will be seen.
Note: artificial lights dull the effect, it changes the color of the make-up. Dark shades lose their brilliance
appearing “muddy” so you need to use brighter colours.
 Character Make-up - A type of make-up which depicts an identity of a person; also used for stage and
cinematic effect.

 Safety Practices in Make-up Application

 Finger nails should be cut short when giving facial make-up
  Handle client patiently and carefully
 Use protective clothing both the operator and the patron.
 Always do facial cleansing
 Maintain cleanliness in your working area.
 Sanitize all the tools to be used especially the brushes and sponges; etc.

GLOW WITH THE RIGHT MAKE-UP

Procedure in Giving a Make-up:
After you have acquired the right products how do you actually put them on? The basic rule is this: Make
sure your face is completely cleansed, toned, exfoliated and moisturized before you start. Here’s a step by step
guide to proper make-up application.
A Professional set of cosmetic brushes is a girl’s best friend. The correct tools allow for the perfect make-up
application each and every time.
Concealer is great for correcting mistakes and disguising all sorts of blemishes. It also:
 Disguises a badly drawn lip line;
 Conceals red skin around the nostrils; and
 Offers a great base for eye shadows, helping it to last longer, when applied to eyelids.

I. Concealer - Dot concealer under the eyes and in recesses, frown lines and wrinkle using a small bunch.
II. Foundation and Powder - Dot foundation on nose, forehead, cheeks and chin. Blend with fingers or
damp sponge evenly over fall and lip.
III. Eye Brow Make-up - To shape eyebrow, hold a pencil or brushes handle vertically at the outer edge of
your nose. Your eyebrow should start directly above the outer edge of your nostrils.
a. Get the big picture - To help you see the natural shape of your own eye crease, use a digital
camera to snap a picture of the top half of your face with no make-up on.
b. Brush up - With a clean brow brush, whisk eyebrows into place-sweeping them up and
outward toward the temples.
c. Take some measurements - Determine the ideal starting and ending of the brows by holding
a pencil flat vertically against your nostril. Observe where the pencil meets the brow area –
that should be the start of your brow. Then, angle the pencil so that it aligns with the outer
corner of the eye. Whether it crosses the brow bone is the end point of the brow. It might
help to use and eyebrow pencil to mark theses points.
d. Clean up the strays. Tweeze any stray hairs (above and below) that don’t follow the natural
shape of your brow and eye crease. Don’t forget to pluck hairs between the brows and
beyond the end points you’ve just marked.
e. Have your fill. Fill in bald spots with an eyebrow pencil, using short, light strokes in the
direction of hair growth. (warming the pencil first by rubbing it in the palm of your hand
will help it glide more easily).
f. Plump them up. Dip a brow brush into a palette of brow powder or eye shadow, then sweep
over brows using quick, feathery strokes. Concentrate most of the powder in the area
where hair is thickest.
g. Lock them in place. Set with brow gel, brushing it up and out toward the arch, then angling
brows slightly downward.
h. Polish the look. Clean up any smudges or mistakes with a cotton swab soaked in eye make-
up.

SOAKED IN EYE MAKE-UP:

a. Blush - Apply blush along the top of your cheekbones, beginning under the center of the eye, and
smooth up and out into the hairline.
b. Eyeliner - Apply along the outer edge of your upper lid and under the lower lashes. Do not enclose
the entire eyes. Start two-thirds or halfway in and outer corner.
c. Eyeshadow
a. Highlighter- Cover entire lid up to the brow with a neutral highlighter shadow to
open the eye and even out the lid of color.
b. Bronzing powders are wonderful for in creating the monochromatic look. Use it to
shadow the eyes, as a finishing powder for the tips, to soften eyebrows and as a
finishing powder to set make-up
c. Contour – Use contour eye shadow along the crease of your eye to lift and enhance
your arbitral bone start under the brow alongside your nose, and bring to the outer
edge of the eye. Do not go to brow itself.

d. Accent – Add eye shadow color on the outer third of the lid in a triangular shape, in
an upward and outward direction. Using a small brush, apply or small amount of
shadow under the lower lash at the outer corner Place a small dot of a golden or
light-reflecting color of eye shadow on the center of your eyelid, then blend slightly.
When you blink, people will notice the light area but won’t know why. You’ll attract
more eye contact during the day.
e. Blend highlighter, contour, and accent eyeshadows together with a soft brush.

d. Mascara - Apply mascara to lower and upper lashes. Use an eyelash comb to separate the lashes.
 e. Lipstick and Lip Pencil - Draw three vertical lines in the center of your lips with a lip pencil and use
the pencil to outline your lips. Fill in the lined lips with lipstick using a lip brush. You will get more
mileage from your lipstick if you apply it with a lip brush. It is estimated that by using a lip brush,
you will get an additional twenty or more applications. Plus, by using a brush, you can put the
lipstick precisely where you want it.

SEVEN STEPS TO PERFECTION

I. Application. Start with clean and well moisturized skin, allowing the product or foundation to be
absorbed. Apply For full-face coverage. dot foundation on the forehead, nose, chin and cheeks. For
partial coverage, just dab where needed. Finger application of foundation is not advisable, use a sponge
to be more hygienic. Start only with a little, because you can always add more.
II. Blending. Blend foundation using your fingers, pressing and patting lightly into the skin. A damp
sponge can also be applied for an even and sheer coat. Build up coverage with thin layers and ideally
apply only where needed. A daytime application looks best if you still have freckles showing, cheeks
blooming and a healthy glow. Always apply foundation downward, otherwise you’ll accentuate pores
and find hairs. Apply over eyelids as a base shadow. Remember to seep over the ears and under the
jaw, blending perfectly to avoid marks. Whisk off excess with a damp sponge if you overdo it.
III. Concealer. Using a small brush or your finger, dot concealer around the inner and outer corners of your
eyes. Gently press and blend into skin with your ring finger but don’t rub in, as this will “drag” delicate
under-eye skin. Best if you apply over your foundation, so that you can even out your skin tone.
IV. Cover up. Hide any other blemishes that show through your foundation by dotting concealer with a
sponge or small brush in tricky areas, such as under the jawline or around the nose. Pat it on with your
finger to settle it on the skin.
V. Eye make-up. To set concealer and foundation under and around the eyes, lightly dust them with a
small, fine brush dipped in loose powder. Be careful not to apply too much; excess powder will only
emphasize fine lines.
VI. To set foundation and concealer. Use a translucent powder that complements your foundation and
won’t rob your skin of its natural glow, slightly yellow-toned powder to give skin warmth. With a
flared, round brush, dust a little over shiny areas. For a mattle finish, gently press and roll a lightly
powdered velour puff into your skin.
VII. Checks and balances. Keep an eye on your make-up throughout the day. Use a lighter formation in
summer or carry a stick foundation for easy touch-ups. Avoid over-powdering if you don’t want to look
caked. For a matt finish, balance out with moist lips or eyes.

LET US REMEMBER!
Make-up is used to enhance and accentuate our facial feature, to appear more attractive which in turn
makes us feel more confident. Make-up is used to create balance or to emphasize facial features.