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(Download PDF) The Debatable Land The Lost World Between Scotland and England Graham Robb Online Ebook All Chapter PDF
(Download PDF) The Debatable Land The Lost World Between Scotland and England Graham Robb Online Ebook All Chapter PDF
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GRAHAM ROBB
PICADOR
TO GILL COLERIDGE
AND IN AFFECTIONATE MEMORY OF
List of Illustrations
List of Figures
A Guide to Pronunciation
PART ONE
1. Hidden Places
2. Outpost
3. Panic Button
4. The True and Ancient Border
5. ‘The Sewer of Abandoned Men’
6. Mouldywarp
7. Beachcombing
PART TWO
8. Blind Roads
9. Harrowed
10. ‘Loveable Custumis’
11. Accelerated Transhumance
12. Skurrlywarble
13. Exploratores
14. Windy Edge
15. ‘In Tymis Bigane’
PART THREE
16. ‘Stob and Staik’
17. ‘Rube, Burne, Spoyll, Slaye, Murder annd Destrewe’
18. The Final Partition
19. Hector of ye Harlawe
20. Scrope
21. Tarras Moss
22. ‘A Factious and Naughty People’
23. Silence
PART FOUR
24. Graticules
25. The Kingdom of Selgovia
26. ‘Arthur’
27. The Great Caledonian Invasion
28. Polling Stations
29. No Man’s Land
30. The River
Appendix
Chronology
Notes
Works Cited
General Index
Geographical Index
Acknowledgements
List of Illustrations
Front cover. The eastern slope of Greena Hill looking towards Tarras
Moss. © Elliot J. Simpson.
Endpapers. Tinnis Burn on the north-eastern slope of Tinnis Hill
descending to Liddesdale. © Elliot J. Simpson.
SECTION ONE
1. ‘North East View of the City of Carlisle’, by Robert Carlyle
(1791). © Martin and Jean Northgate 2014.
2. A Northbound freight train on the Waverley Line hauled by a
LNER Class B1 locomotive approaches Riccarton Junction in
June 1965, climbing to ‘the Edge’ (the northern limit of
Liddesdale). Photograph by Maurice Burns. © Maurice Burns
1965.
3. Joan Blaeu’s map of ‘Lidalia’ (Liddesdale), 1654, based on
Timothy Pont’s survey, conducted c. 1590. Reproduced by
permission of the National Library of Scotland.
4. Part of the Debatable Land on Joan Blaeu’s map of ‘Lidalia’.
Reproduced by permission of the National Library of Scotland.
5. Liddel Water in early December 2010. Author’s photograph.
6. The Solway Firth near the Lochmaben Stone, August 2014.
Author’s photograph.
7. Statue of King Edward I in Burgh by Sands. © Roger Clegg
Photography.
8. ‘Gilnockie [sic] – or Johnny Armstrong’s Tower (Dumfries-
shire)’ by Henry Adlard from an original study by Thomas
Allom, 1837. Private collection. Engraving by Henry Adlard from
an original study by Thomas Allom, 1837.
9. Statue of ‘Lang Sandy’ in Rowanburn. © Nigel Cole.
10. Hermitage Castle, April 2016. Author’s photograph.
11. ‘A Platt of the opposete Borders of Scotland to ye west
marches of England’, drawn by an anonymous cartographer for
William Cecil, December 1590. © British Library Board. All
Rights Reserved/Bridgeman Images.
12. ‘Walter Scott Esqr’. Engraving by Charles Turner after Henry
Raeburn, 1810. Yale Center for British Art. Yale Center for
British Art, Paul Mellon Fund.
13. The Lochmaben Stone near Gretna. © Elliot J. Simpson.
SECTION TWO
14. Henry Bullock’s map of the Debatable Land, 1552. Reproduced
with permission from The National Archives, ref. MPF1/257.
15. ‘Mile-Castle near Caw-Fields’. From The Roman Wall by the
Rev. John Collingwood Bruce (1851).
16. The Scots’ Dike (in England) or March Bank (in Scotland), built
in 1552. © Elliot J. Simpson.
17. Thomas Scrope, tenth Baron Scrope of Bolton, and his mother
Margaret Howard. Anonymous portrait, c. 1593. Photograph
courtesy of Sotheby’s Picture Library.
18. Robert Carey, first Earl of Monmouth. Anonymous portrait, c.
1591. © National Trust Images.
19. Richard Beavis, ‘The Rescue of Kinmont Willie’, 1872. ©
Bonhams.
20. Kirkandrews church and graveyard, and the Grahams’ pele
tower, March 2016. Author’s photograph.
21. Hills Tower, Lochfoot, Dumfriesshire, in 1911. Crown
Copyright: HES.
22. The line of the lost Roman road leading from the Debatable
Land into Tarras Moss, September 2013. Author’s photograph.
23. The British Isles according to Ptolemy’s coordinates, plotted by
Jacob d’Angelo in Cosmographia Claudii Ptolomaei Alexandrini
(1467). National Library of Poland.
24. A Roman cavalryman trampling a British barbarian, first
century AD. In Hexham Abbey. Author’s photograph.
25. The ‘Border Reiver’ statue (2003) on Kingstown Road, Carlisle.
© Roger Clegg.
List of Figures
Hidden Places
Early one evening in the autumn of 2010, my wife Margaret and I stood in
front of Carlisle railway station in the far north-west of England with two
loaded bicycles and a one-way ticket from Oxford. After twenty-three years
in the South, we had decided to move to Scotland. The idea was to live
closer to my mother – her son and daughter-in-law becoming every day a
more distant memory – and to find a home more conducive to those two
inseparable pursuits: writing and cycling. By chance, our search had ended
just short of Scotland, at a lonely house on the very edge of England. The
title deed showed that we would own a stretch of the national border. If
Scotland regained its independence – which seemed a remote prospect – we
would be custodians of an international frontier.
During our last months in Oxford, I had read about our future home and
discovered that the river which almost surrounds the house had once
marked the southern boundary of a region called the Debatable Land. For
several centuries, this desolate tract running north-east from the Solway
Firth had served as a buffer between the two nations. Within those fifty
square miles, by parliamentary decrees issued by both countries in 1537 and
1551, ‘all Englishmen and Scottishmen are and shall be free to rob, burn,
spoil, slay, murder and destroy, all and every such person and persons, their
bodies, property, goods and livestock . . . without any redress to be made for
same’. By all accounts, they availed themselves of the privilege. Under
Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, James V and James VI, the Debatable Land had
been the bloodiest region in Britain.
Finding out about the area as it exists today had proved surprisingly
difficult. The name on the postal address, a collective term for a scattering
of small settlements and isolated farms, seemed to refer to a mythical place.
It was missing entirely from a book titled The Hidden Places of Cumbria
(1990); even the long valley in which it lies had remained invisible to the
author. When, a few weeks after moving, I mentioned the name of the place
to a Carlisle taxi driver, a faraway look appeared in his eyes. ‘I’ve heard of
it,’ he said, as though I was asking to be driven to a place out of legend.
Those days of first contact with the borderlands now seem to belong to a
distant past. I had no idea how much there was to be explored and no
intention of writing a book about the place in which we had found a home.
The history of the area was a threadbare tapestry on which scenes of
fruitless chaos in a derelict realm were monotonously depicted. The border
itself was little more than a quaint memento of the Anglo-Scottish wars, and
there were few signs that it would rise from the enormous burial mound of
British history, proclaiming its ancient identity like a sleeping knight to
whom life but not memory had been restored.
Then, under the powerful spell of idle curiosity, documents and maps
arrived unbidden: the land and its inhabitants seemed to have become aware
that someone was taking an interest in them. The story unfolded itself
between 2010 and 2016, and the independent territory which used to exist
between Scotland and England began to look like a crucial, missing piece in
the puzzle of British history.
It was towards the end of that period, when the United Kingdom was
entering a new and unpredictable world, that I made the two discoveries
described in the last part of this book. One was a second-century atlas of
Iron Age and Roman Britain so wonderfully accurate that it could still be
used today. The other was the earliest account of a major historical event in
Britain from a British point of view. The past, too, then seemed to dissolve
and reshape itself, and the existence of those ancient documents would have
seemed fantastic were it not for the tangible reality of their revelations.
Much has been written about Jean François Millet, and mostly from
two points of view. The picturesque surroundings of the plain of
Barbizon and the peasant’s blouse have tempted the sentimental
biographer to dwell on the personal note of poverty, which we now
know was not the dominant one in Millet’s life. The picturesque writer
has amplified, with more or less intelligence, reflections suggested
by the subjects of his pictures. In all this, the painter’s point of view,
which is, after all, the only one that matters, has, so far as its
expression in print is concerned, been overlooked and omitted.
The important fact about Millet is not that he struggled with
poverty, or that he expressed on canvas the dignity of labour, but
that he was a great artist. As corollaries, he was a great
draughtsman and a great colourist. He was gifted with the
comprehension in its entirety of the import of any scene in nature
which he wished to render. An unerring analysis enabled him to
select what were the vital constituents of such a scene, and exquisite
perceptions, trained by incessant labour, to render them in fitting
terms in accordance with the tradition which governs the use of each
material.
It may seem that the process here summarized is after all only
that which governs all art production, and that the work of the
second-rate and the ordinary differs only from that of the master in
the degree of capacity exercised. But this is not so. It differs totally in
kind. The conception, conscious or unconscious, of the nature and
aim of art is in the two cases different, and, as a consequence, the
practice is different.
It would be affectation to ignore that, for good or for evil, Paris is
the art-centre of European painting, and that the most serious
training in drawing and painting that is procurable on European lines
is procurable in Paris. I should therefore consider it a service of great
utility to serious art if it were possible to make clear the reasons for
my conviction that the tendency of the mass of exhibition painting in
France, and, by reflection, in England, has been in an inartistic
direction, and has led inevitably to the sterile ideal of the
instantaneous camera. And, on the other hand, that the narrow
stream of purely artistic painting, that has trickled its more
sequestered course parallel with the broad flood of exhibition work,
owes its vitality to a profound and convinced reverence for tradition.
For the illustration of that tradition I can find no more convenient
source than the work of Jean François Millet, and for a typical
monument of its disregard, the more fair to cite in that it is
respectable in achievement, the work of Bastien-Lepage affords me
a timely and perhaps the most appropriate example possible.
What, then, is the main difference? How did Millet work, and with
what objects? How did Lepage work, and what is it he strove to
attain?
To begin with, Millet, ninety-nine times out of a hundred, had seen
his picture happen somewhere in nature. Its treatment generally
involved complex difficulties of suggestion of movement, or at least
of energy, to say nothing of those created by the variety of lighting
and atmospheric effect; the management of sunlight, of twilight, of
the lighting of interiors. All these elements he was enabled, by
means of a highly-trained artistic memory, to retain and render in the
summary method which we call inspiration, and which has nothing in
common with the piecemeal and futile copying of nature of a later
school. Dealing with materials in their essential nature living and
fleeting, his execution was in the main separated from his
observation. His observation was thus uninterrupted by the
exigencies of execution, and his execution untrammelled by the
fortuitous inconveniences incident on the moment of observation,
and undisturbed, moreover, by the kaleidoscopic shifting of the
pictorial elements which bewilder and mislead the mere plein-airiste.
He did not say to the woman at the washtub, “Do as if you were
washing, and stay like that for me for four or five hours a day, while I
paint a picture from you.” Or to the reaper, “Stay like that with the
scythe drawn back, pretending to reap.” “La nature ne pose pas”—to
quote his own words. He knew that if figures in movement were to be
painted so as to be convincing, it must be by a process of cumulative
observation. This truth one of the greatest heirs of the great school
of 1830 has not been slow to understand, and it is to its further and
more exquisite development that we owe the profoundly learned and
beautiful work of Degas. His field of observation is shifted from the
life of the village and the labour of the plains, to the sordid toil of the
greenroom and the hectic mysteries of stage illumination; but the
artistic problem remains the same, and its solution is worked out on
the same lines.
Millet observed and observed again, making little in the way of
studies on the spot, a note sometimes of movement on a cigarette-
paper. And when he held his picture he knew it, and the execution
was the singing of a song learned by heart, and not the painful
performance in public of a meritorious feat of sight-reading. The
result of this was that his work has style—style which is at the same
time in the best traditions and strictly personal. No one has been
more imitated than Millet, and no one is more inimitable.
Holding in the hollow of his hand the secrets of light and life and
movement, the secrets of form and colour, learnt from the visible
world, he was equipped, like the great masters of old, for the
treatment of purely fanciful themes; and, when he painted a reluctant
nymph being dragged through the woods by a turbulent crowd of
cupids, he was as much at home as when he rendered the recurring
monotone of the peasant’s daily labours. My quarrel with the
gentlemen who escape from the laws of anatomy and perspective by
painting full-length portraits of souls, and family groups of
abstractions, is, not that they paint these things, but that they have
not first learnt something about the laws which govern the incidence
of light on concrete bodies. It might be well if they would discover
whether they can paint their brother, whom they have seen, before
they elect to flounder perennially in Olympus.
Let it also be noted here that the work of Jean François Millet
was, with scarcely an exception, free from a preoccupation with the
walls of an exhibition. The scale of his pictures and their key were