Introduction to cosmetics

the first archaeological evidence found in ancient Egypt in 4000 B.C

Greeks, romans & Egyptians used mercury, white lead, myrrh for
cosmetics
Cosmetic can be categorize based on the use.
1. Skin
2. Hair
3. Nail
4. Hygienic
If we see about skin, there are 4 categories.
(Myrrh tree) 5. Powder compact
6. Creams
7. Lotions
8. Colorants (under this section we talk about lipstick)
 Introduction to lipstick

Greeks use Polder’s root to color their lips

Mesopotamian women are the first ones to decorate their lips
lipstick revolution start at 16th century.
What is the purpose of the lipsticks?
•*protect lips from hard weather.
•*Color lips.
•*to give freshness to lips.
There are 12 types of lipsticks

Cream lipsticks Lipstick stains

Gloss lipsticks

Matter lipsticks Moisturing lipsticks

Long – wearing or transfer- resistance lipsticks
Pearl/ forsted lipsticks Lipstick pencils
Sheer/satin lipsticks
Lipstick cream

Lipstick Tubes/sticks Liquid lipstick

Lipstick Tubes/sticks have usually diameter of 10mm and 50mm-70mm length, so
there are small in real life.

Raw material Composition:

•Wax mixture
•Oil mixture
•Bromo mixture
•Colors
•Preservatives
•Fragrance
•Antioxidants
•Surfactants & other additives
•(1) Wax mixture
•Wax is the structure support
to the lipstick; the gloss &
harness is generally dependent
on the quality of the wax .
Mostly use beeswax &
candelilla wax. We get the wax
and mix it and make the
melting point high because the
strengthening of lipstick is
dependent on high melting
point.
•Cost is basically dependent on
the quality of the raw material
•*Retail price of beeswax is $10
per 1lb.
•With the quality the retail
price will variate.in sri lanka this
raw material can be finding and
available.
Pure beeswax is rs.1250 per 1kg in
sri lanka.
candelilla wax has much higher
price that beeswax, 1kg is around
Rs. 2100.this is 100%pure &
natural, vegan.
Candelilla availability in sri lanka
low compared to beeswax.
(2) oil mixture
This is act as solvent (for some of the formulation), dispersing agent (for insoluble
pigments). The oil blend with properly with wax to provide a suitable film to apply on skin.

Oils :
1. Castor oil
2. Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA)& esters
3. Fatty acid alkyl amides
4. Paraffin oil
5. Isopropyl myristate
6. Isopropyl palmitate
7. Butyl stearate
 
Castor oil 100ml is Rs.200 at least from sri lanka. The availability of the product is huge in
our country.at first most of the oil was imported but now we use it for our own product
manufacturing

Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA); C5H10O2 is the molecular formular

So, this is rs.1050 for 5L, so you can see what is more important is selection is mange the cost of the raw
material.(production )
(3) Bromo mixture
Maintain the physical form of the formulation. This is also called as bromo acids. Hazel bishop is the one who
discover this first, because when we use only pigment it will come of much quicker .in here we use moisture bromo
acid for this.
There are two class:
1. Red
2. Orange, red
About 2-3% bromo acid are used because due to its absorptivity of moisture of the lips.

So, if we want to proper a bromo mix, first we add bromo acid 15g, then propylene glycol 200g
&propylene glycol monomyristate 100g are mix them and get the bromo mixture .
(4) colors
people more care about this color when they buy the product.in 18 th ,19th century the carmine was widely use.
now days it is different.
We can sperate it to two ways:
1. Soluble dyes (eg, fluorescein, eosin)
2. Insoluble dyes (eg, lakes of Ca, Ba, Al, Sr)
(TiO2 is used to make pink )

(5) preservatives
Used to prevent microbial growth (eg, methyl paraben, propyl paraben)
Burning sensation or allergic reactions can occur due to the high concentration of the preservatives.
In general, you can see this kind of high concentration is not good for us

(6) fragrance
Alcohol used as solvent to mix the wax & oil in lipstick.
Fragrance use to make a pleasant scent to the lipstick.
This is one essential component (material) as the color because people really care about Quality, attraction &
fragrance only.
Concentration of fragrance is 2-4%.
(7) antioxidants
prevent rancidification of oily base during storage ( gallic acid, propyl gallate, BHA-butylated hydroxytoluence,BHA-
butylated hydroxyanisole
, critic acid)

(8) surfactants & other additives

Surfactants: used to promote wetting & stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigment in lipstick base
Additives; used for various purpose.