PROJECT REPORT

ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF
BASIC SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC.
 CONTENTS

Chapter no Chapter name

Chapter 1 General Introduction
Chapter 2 Literature review
Chapter 3 Terminology & definition
Chapter 4 Fabric specification
Chapter 5 Machine specification
Chapter 6 Result & discussion

Bibliography
 CHAPTER 1

GENERAL
INTRODUCTION
 GENERAL INTRODUCTION
• Find out relation between
yarn count and GSM.
• Find out the logic of selection
of stitch length selection.
AIMS OF
THE
• Selection of machine
diameter and machine gauge
PROJECT
to get specific width of fabric.
• Find out the fabric width.
 CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE
REVIEW
 LITERATURE REVIEW

 CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH.

 CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH.

 MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH.

 MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT.

 MEASUREMENT OF GSM.
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

Ks×Tex
GSM = Stitch length(mm)

GSMStitch length (mm)

Ks = Tex
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
VALUE OF Ks FOR SOME DESIGN FABRIC
Fabric Type Color Value of Ks
Single jersey Average 19.55
Single lacoste Average 22.4
Double lacoste Average 22.75
Polo pique Average 25
Plain interlock Average 39.3
1×1 Rib Light 24.5
1×1 Rib Average 26.5
2×1 Rib Average 28.3
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
RELATION BETWEEN YARN COUNT, FABRIC
TYPE AND FINISHED GSM
Fabric Yarn Stitch Finished Finished
Type count length Color D×G diamete GSM
(mm) r (inch)

Plain S/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26×24 30 220-230

,, 20s/1 2.98 White 30×24 33.5 200-210
,, 24s/1 2.68 White 30×24 32 175-185
,, 26s/1 2.66 White 30×24 31 160-170
,, 28s/1 2.70 Avg 26×24 25 150-160
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
,, 30s/1 2.68 Avg 30×24 30 130-140
,, 34s/1 2.40 Avg 26×24 24 125-135
,, 40s/1 2.44 Avg 24×24 20 100-110
Single 18s/1 3.00 Avg 30×24 46 245-255
lacost
,, 24s/1 2.64 Avg 30×24 40 210-215
,, 26s/1 2.60 Avg 30×24 36 200-210
,, 30s/1 2.50 Avg 30×24 33 180-190
1 × 1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 Avg 41 240
,, 24s/1 2.75 Avg 30×18 64 235
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
,, 26s/1 2.54 Avg 40×18 40 245
,, 26s/1 2.55 Avg 40×18 47 235
,, 26s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 32 230
,, 36s/1 2.65 Avg 32×18 33 170
,, 24s/1 2.95 Avg 34×18 32 220
,, 24s/1 2.90 Avg 40×18 38 225
,, 28s/1 2.40 Avg 30×24 38.5 232
2 × 1 Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40×18 23 190
,, 34s/1 2.70 Avg 32×18 20 185
1×1 20s/1 3.30 Avg 36×18 32 320
lycra rib +40D
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
,, 24s/1 3.00 Avg 30×18 30 280
+40D
,, 26s/1 2.90 Avg 30×18 30 260
+40D
,, 28s/1 2.80 Avg 30×18 30 250
+40D
,, 30s/1 2.60 Avg 32×20 28 260
+70D
,, 34s/1 2.44 Avg 30×18 26 240
+70D
2 × 2 rib 40s/1 2.76 Avg 30×20 35T 160
,, 28s/1 2.87 Avg 34×18 32T 260
,, 26s/1 3.25 Avg 34×18 31T 205
,, 24s/1 3.50 Avg 34×18 31.5T 285
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
,, 20s/1 3.25 Avg 34×20 55OP 260
2×2 20s/1 3.10 Avg 30×18 18T 390
lycra rib +40D
,, 24s/1 2.90 Avg 30×18 18T 320
+40D
,, 30s/1 2.90 Avg 240
+70D
,, 20s/1 3.25 Avg 34×20 55OP 260
,, 30s/1 2.98 Avg 240
+40D
,, 30s/1 2.80 Avg 30×18 220
+40D
Fleece 26s/1GM 2.78 + Avg 30×24 32T 220
+ 24s/1 c 1.36
LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

,, 26s/1GM 2.78 + Avg 30×24 32T 220

+ 26s/1 c 1.36
,, 26s/1GM 2.85 + Avg 30×24 32T 240
+ 24s/1 c 1.35
,, 26s/1GM 2.90+ Avg 30×24 32T 220
+ 20s/1 c 1.35
,, 28s/1GM 2.8 + Avg 30×24 32T 235
+ 28s/1 c 1.35
,, 30s/1GM 2.8 + Avg 30×24 32T 175
+ 26s/1 c 1.36
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

SUMMERIZATION OF THE ABOVE DATA

Finished GSM Count Finished Diameter

140 30/1 Machine dia = Finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia +1 = Finished dia
180 24/1 Machine dia + 2 = Finished dia
200 20/1 Machine dia + 3 = Finished dia
220 18/1 Machine dia + 4 = Finished dia
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

COMMENT
 It is very distinct from these tables that there is no
proof that these values are true, as they are not
actual or experimental and they have taken these
values from the mill and factory.
 They have determined the value of count by
beesleys balance. We never give the value of count
in fraction but by our method we find that the
value of count is most of the time is fraction.
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
EQUATION FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM
FROM THE SPECIFIC YARN COUNT

Name of the fabrics Equations

Single jersey Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22
Pique Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16
Double lacoste Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36
1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57
Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12
Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)
EQUATION FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM
FROM THE SPECIFIC YARN COUNT
Fabric Equations
Single jersey GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4
Lycra single jersey GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56
Pique GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44
1 1 Rib GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66
Lycra 1 1 Rib GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08
Lycra 2 2 Rib GSM = -9.1216 yarn count + 519.05
Interlock GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388.41
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

FABRIC WIDTH = no of wales X wales space

= No of needle X “
= ∏dg X “
Tex
YARN DIAMETER, d = 26.7

1
d = 28 Ne
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

1
GSM α Yarn CountStitch Length

So, K = Yarn count x loop length x GSM

 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

CONSTANT AT A GLANCE

Fabric Constant
Sinlgle jersey plain 12068.509
Double Lacoste 14855.2
1 X 1 Rib 16431.497
2 X 1 Rib 19005.333
Interlock 24013.8
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

WALES SPACE = 4d
MINIMUM WALES SPACE = 4d
FABRIC THICKNESS:
FOR DOUBLE JERSEY, t = 4d
FOR SINGLE JERSEY, t = 2d
 LITERATURE REVIEW (CONT.)

COMMENT
 It is understandable that gauge is an important
factor for fabric width but actually the width of
fabric is dependent upon the number of needle
present in the machine. Often the number of
needle present in the machine is not equal to . So
the equation should only be like following:
Fabric width = no of needle x wales space.
 CHAPTER 3

TERMINOLOGY
&
DEFINATION
 TERMINOLOGY & DEF (CONT.)
 WALES PER INCH.
 COURSE PER INCH.

 STITCH LENGTH.

 YARN COUNT.

a) DIRECT SYSTEM.
b) INDIRECT SYSTEM.
 TERMINOLOGY & DEF (CONT.)

a) DIRECT SYSTEM:
Wl
COUNT = wL
Here, W = Weight of sample.
L = Length of sample.
w = Unit weight in system.
l = Unit length in system.
 TERMINOLOGY & DEF (CONT.)

b) INDIRECT SYSTEM:
Lw
COUNT = Wl
Here, W = Weight of sample.
L = Length of sample.
w = Unit weight in system.
l = Unit length in system.
 TERMINOLOGY & DEF (CONT.)
 GSM.
 FABRIC WIDTH.
WIDTH = Course LengthStitch Length
Kw

=  DGStitch Length
Where, Stitch Length in cm. Kw
D = m/c diameter, G = m/c gauge.
 CHAPTER 4

FABRIC
SPECIFICATION
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

ELEMENTS OF SPECIFICATION:
1. GSM.

2. Loop length.

3. Yarn count.

4. Fabric width.
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED GSM:
GSM α
1
Yarn Count
GSM α
1
GSMα Loop Length
So, Yarn count x Loop Length x GSM = K
1
Yarn CountLoop Length (constant)
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
CONSTANT FOR SINGLE JERSEY FROM
COLLECTED FABRIC:
S/ GSM SL COUNT EQUATI AVERAG STD CV
N ON E DVE
1. 122.488 2.664324 37.777 12328.44
2. 127.038 2.965405 31.6278 11914.8
3. 135.77 2.319347 32.92 10366.43
4. 141.36 3.046935 31.8744 13728.77 12083.96 946. 7.83
5. 144.5 2.698962 30.87 12039.3 3509 1462
6. 148 2.610811 28.8 11128.32
7. 153 2.701087 30 12397.99
8. 155.22 2.881429 27.12405 12131.38
9. 163.715 2.880883 26.97 12720.23
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
ACTUAL PRACTISING IN THE INDUSTRY:
Typ Ne Max Min GSM S/L Constant Avg Std CV%
e GSM GSM (mm) K
Sin 20 220 200 220 2.85 12540
gle 210 3.00 12600 12047.625 334.9 2.780
jer 12400 38377 11954
200 3.10
sey
24 190 160 190 2.70 12312 4 6
180 2.85 12312
170 3.00 12240
160 3.15 12096
26 170 150 170 2.75 12155
160 2.90 12064
150 3.00 11700
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

12083.96 12047.625
DEFLECTION = 12047.625 x 100

= 0.3%
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
FABRIC GSM AND YARN COUNT:
S/N COUNT G.S.M
01. 36.74 116
02. 32.13 134.33
03. 30.87 172.33
04. 37.77 121.33
05. 31.63 139.33
06. 28.8 142.63
07. 27.12 176.67
08. 35.29 154.33
09. 29.99 165.33
10. 26.97 168.33
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
FABRIC GSM AND YARN COUNT:
S/N COUNT G.S.M
11. 32.13 134.33
12. 32.92 139.33
13. 25.57 181.67
14. 22.71 138.33
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
GRAPH SHOWN RELATION BETWEEN
THE YARN COUNT AND THE GSM:
50

40

30
Yarn Count (y)

20

10

(0,0)
100 120 140 160 180 200
GSM (x)
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
By taking two points from the straight line,
we can find the following equation:
From (i)
(116,36.74) (181.67,25.57)
x  GSM , y  Count y  ( x 116)11.17  36.74
65.67
x 116  y  36.74  ( x 116)(0.17)  36.74
116 181.67 36.74  25.54  (0.17 x) 19.72  36.74
 x 116  y  36.74 y  56  0.17 x
65.67 11.17
 x  ( y  36.74)(65.67) 116 Example:
11.17
 x  5.88 y  216 116 Count, y  30
 x  332  5.88 y GSM  332  5.8830 155.6
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
FABRIC WIDTH:
Along the fabric width there presents the wales. The
total no. of needle is fixed for the same cylinder
having the equal gauge as well as diameter.
Fabric width = No. of wales x Wales space.
=Total no of needle x Wales space.
The above concepts clarify that Fabric width closely
depends on total no. of needle not directly related
to machine diameter or machine gauge.
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
WALES SPACE:

The space covered by a wale is called wale

space for that wale.
Wales space depends on:
 Yarn diameter.

 Loop length.
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
YARN DIAMETER:

WALES SPACE = 4d
WHERE, d = YARN DIAMETER.
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
ACTUAL VALUE OF RATIO OF WALES SPACE
AND DIA OF YARN:
Coun Wales Yarn Yarn Ratio Averag
t space(mm) dia(inch) dia(mm) e
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647 3.97625
18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834
24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851
24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851
FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336
24 0.702185067 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.792115223
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336
24 0.696567587 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.761778304
24 0.674097665 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.640430618
24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

COMMENT:
It’s clear from the chart that, the ratio of yarn dia to
wales space is very near of 4. So we can say that
one wales occupy 4d space, where d is the yarn
diameter.
So, from the above chart, we found the relation
between the yarn count and the WPI as follow,
28 Ne
4
WPI =
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

TABLE SHOWS THE ACTUAL WPI IN

ACCORDANCE TO THE COUNT:
Count Wales Wales WPI Avg Std Cv%
space(mm) space(inch)
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
30.44 1.474 4.841229
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
848 081
18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)
Count Wales Wales WPI Avg Std Cv%
space(mm) space(inch)
24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154
24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54 35.4 1.02 2.890
24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54 2579 4035 649
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918
24 0.702185067 0.027645081 36.1728
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918
24 0.696567587 0.027423921 36.46452
24 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

Count Wales Wales WPI Avg Std Cv%

space(mm) space(inch)
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875 37.1 0.53 1.445
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875 893 745 178
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68 7 3
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
 FABRIC SPECIFICATION(CONT.)

COMMENT:
From the above chart, we came to the
decision that WPI the equation as follows:

28 Ne
WPI = 4
 CHAPTER 5

MACHINE
SPECIFICATION
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:

1. Machine gauge.
2. Machine Diameter.
3. Needle gauge.
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)

TYPICAL SELECTION OF M/C GAUGE

FOR YARN COUNT:
M/C Gauge Ne
18 14.0/1 – 23.5/1
20 18.0/1 – 26.0/1
22 21.5/1 – 29.5/1
24 23.5/1 – 35.5/1
26 26.0/1 – 41.5/1
28 29.5/1 – 47.5/1
30 35.5/1 – 59.0/1
32 41.5/1 – 70.0/1
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
MACHINE DIAMETER SELECTION:
S/ Count Gaug WP Fabric found from 1 inch Percentage of
N (Ne) e I machine perimeter fabric found X%
1 18 20 31 0.64516129 64.51612903
2 18 24 31 0.774193548 77.41935484
3 20 20 31.5 0.634920635 63.49206349
4 20 24 31.5 0.761904762 76.19047619
5 22 20 33 0.606060606 60.60606061
6 22 24 33 0.727272727 72.72727273
7 22 28 33 0.848484848 84.84848485
8 24 20 35 0.571428571 57.14285714
9 24 24 35 0.685714286 68.57142857
10 24 28 35 0.8 80
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
S/ Count Gaug WP Fabric found from 1 inch Percentage of
N (Ne) e I machine perimeter fabric found X%
11 26 20 36 0.555555556 55.55555556
12 26 24 36 0.666666667 66.66666667
13 26 28 36 0.777777778 77.77777778
14 28 20 37 0.540540541 54.05405405
15 28 24 37 0.648648649 64.86486486
16 28 28 37 0.756756757 75.67567568
17 30 20 38 0.526315789 52.63157895
18 30 24 38 0.631578947 63.15789474
19 30 28 38 0.736842105 73.68421053
20 32 20 40 0.5 50
21 32 24 40 0.6 60
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
Fabric found from one inch machine
Machine Gauge
perimeter, X = WPI

So , the machine diameter for particular fabric

dia is = Fabric
X
Dia

where, X = percentage of fabric found in

relation to the machine perimeter.
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
So, the machine diameter for particular fabric dia is =
Fabric Dia
X
= =
Fabric Dia Fabric DiaWPI
G G
= WPI =
Fabric Dia Fabric Dia
= G4d = 7XG4
28 Ne
Fabric Dia28 Ne Fabric Dia Ne
G4 G
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
Again, the relation can be inversely shown
that,
Machine DiaG
Fabric dia (Tubular) = 7 Ne

For example, if the machine dia is 32”, yarn

count 24Ne, and the machine gauge is 24
3224
then the fabric dia will be = 7 24
= 22.4 inch.
MACHINE SPECIFICATION (CONT.)
NEEDLE GAUGE:

Machine gauge Needle thickness in

(mm)
24 0.52
28 0.41
 CHAPTER 6

RESULT AND
DISCUSSION
RESULT & DUSCUSSION (CONT.)
 The constant for the plain single jersey is as
follow:
K (Yarn count X stitch length X GSM) = 12083.96
 Relation between the fabric GSM and the yarn
count:
If the GSM of the fabric is “x” and the count of
yarn is “y”, then the equation for determining
GSM and the Yarn count is as follows:
GSM, x = 332 – 5.88y &
Yarn count(Ne), y = 56 – 0.17x
RESULT & DUSCUSSION (CONT.)

 Machine diameter selection:

The relation between the Fabric dia and the
Dia Ne
Machine dia is = 7 x Fabric G
Again, the relation can be inversely shown
that,
Machine DiaG
Fabric dia (Tubular) = 7 Ne
THANK
YOU