GARMENT FINISH

Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is

now impossible to survive in this highly competitive world market.
Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives
value addition to it.
It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can
incorporate desirable properties.
Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)}

x Quality
.

The need for competitive strategy that utilizes;

Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional
finishes.
Cost reduction through process integration and
minimizing the consumption of all utilities.
More environmentally friendly and application method.
Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment
cost.
Improve process control, monitoring and automation.
Greater innovation in chemical finishes.
Quick response through right-first-time, right-on time,
right-every-time finishing.

Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to

increase attractiveness and/or serviceability of
the fabric.
Different finishing treatments are available to
get various effects, which add value to the basic
textile material.
The domestic readymade garment sector is
booming, and garment processing has emerged
as one of the important production routes towards
meeting quick changing demands of the fashion
market

METHOD OF APPLICATION:
There are two methods of garment finishing.
Dip process.
Tumbling process

Dip process: Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping
MLR 1:5. Washing machine may be used.
Rotate the garment for 20 min.
Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.
Tumble dry at 70C to moisture content 1012 %.
Turn the garment right side out.
Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired
places.
Cure at 150160C

Tumble method: In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a
machine with sealed (not perforated) cylinder and
application of recipe by either pumping or spraying.
The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be
excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so
more tumbling time is allowed.
This method is being used more and more due to the fact
that there is no wastage of chemicals.
After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble
dry at 70C to 1020 % pick up moisture content.
The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set
creases. Cure at 150160C for 8 -10 min.

Important features: MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment
weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those weighing more
than 600 gm.
Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.
Tumble rotation speed 20-30 rpm.
Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than
70C.
Moisture retention after drying should be 10-

12%.

Wash down effects

It can be achieved by a variety of garment processing
techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and
on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by
producing different wash down or break-in looks.
In garment washing the seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs,
etc develop a contour, which can be obtained by washing
in garment from only.
Washing down of garments is the latest development in
fashion technology. Washing brings out special effects
changing the feel and look of garments

Five good reasons can be attributed for washing the

garments.

To influence physical properties such as

softness, handle, drape or fall , absorbency, creasing
etc.

To influence appearance by altering the nature

of yarn of fabric or lusture.

To create shrinkage & effects of shrinkage like

puckering of garments.

To create abrasion & related effects.

To create a trend in fashion with consistent

quality & brand image with range of finishes.

Denim washing
It is the aesthetic finish given to the denim
fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide
strength
Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the
garment wash method
Emphasis is on
Comfort And
Softness.
Fashion Trends Favor The Broken-in Look And
Worn/Faded seams
that can only be achieved through garment processing

DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES:

1. Mechanical washes
Stone wash
Micro sanding

2. Chemical washes
Denim bleaching
Enzyme wash
Acid wash

Any of these procedures can be modified

To fit a particular situation,
Depending upon garment type (i.e.,
heavyweight denim versus lightweight
chambray),
Available equipment, and
Process flow.
Also, some of these procedures yield
garments suitable for over dyeing, which may
create a whole new look.

PROCEDURE
1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks
(especially useful when preset creases are present).
2. Load machine with garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Drain.
5. Rinse.
6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60C. The liquor ratio can range from
10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline
products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging
from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products
that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular
dyestuff used.
7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
8. Drain and rinse.
9. Apply softener.
10. Tumble dry.
11. Invert garments, if previously turned.
12. Press, if required

STONEWASH
In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans
are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled
with pumice stones
It means Pre washed, abraded, faded either regular or
irregular looks are produced by subjecting the dyed
garments to severe washing treatments
In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to
give garments an even more unique appearance,
desirable look and softer hand, abrasive stones
were introduced to the wash bath.

 Variations in composition, hardness, size shape

and porosity make these stones multifunctional.
The process is quite expensive and requires high
capital investment.
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a
faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of
the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye
particles from the surfaces of the yarn.
A variety of natural and synthetic stones are
available for stonewashing with perhaps the most
widely used being pumice or volcanic rock.

As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate,

reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over
a period of time.
The stones not only abrade the fabric but also
gradually abrade the inside of the rotary drum.
A machine used for stonewashing should not be
used to dye delicate articles or when abrasion
would be detrimental to the fabric.
Its gives used look because of varying degrees
of abrasion in areas such as the waistband,
pocket and seems

Degree of colour fading

Garments to stone ratio
Washing time
Size of stone
MLR
Load of garments
Stone weight 0.5-3

Selection of stone
Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and
size for the particular end product.
It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may
be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.
Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics
and more delicate items.
STONE WT. /FABRIC WT. = 0.5 TO 3 /1
It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the
desired result.
Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or
washed down the drain.

PROCEDURE
1. Load stones into machine.
2. Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight
stones:1 part weight garments).
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. Liquor ratio
approximately 5-8:1.
4. Rinse.
5. Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending
upon desired effect. Liquor ratio 5-8:1 at 50-70C. Scouring
additives can also be used.

6. Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments

can be transferred to another machine).
7. Rinse.
8. Apply softener (garments can be transferred to
another machine for softening).
9. Extract and unload.
10. De-stone and tumble dry.
11. Press, if required.

BACK STAINING OR RE-DEPOSITION:

The dye removed from denim material after the
treatment with cellulose or by a conventional
washing process may cause "back staining or
"redeposition.

Re-coloration

of

blue

threads

and

blue

coloration of white threads, resulting in less

contrast between blue and white threads.

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY STONES:

Damage to wash machineries and garment due to
stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion
Increase in labor to remove dust from finished
garments.
Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
Back staining and re deposition.

REMEDY OF BACK STAINING

Adding dispersion/suspension agent to
wash cycle.
Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.
Using alkaline detergent like sodium per
borate with optical brightener as after wash

LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:

Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control
outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little
percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing
machines get abraded.
This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment,
and increases production costs.
Stones may turn into powder during the process of making
the garment grayish in color and rough too
Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash
Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts

STONEWASH EFFECT:

In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones

are added to the garments during washing as abradant. Due to ring
dyeing and heavy abrasion fading is more apparent but less
uniform.
The degree of colour fading depends on the garment to stone ratio,
washing time, size of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of
garments.
Normally after desizing, stone wash process starts with pumice
stone addition in rotary drum type garment washer.
Process time varies from 60-120 mins.
Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded
washing effects.

 Stone wash process gives used look or vintage on

the garments, because of varying degree of abrasion in
the area such as waistband, pocket, seam and body.
There are many limitations and drawbacks associated
with stone washing process, which can be overcome by
using new enzyme based washing technology.
This technology also helps to conserve water, time,
energy and environment

ENZYME WASH
Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are
used in denim garment processing to get stone
wash look on to the denim garments without
using stones or by reducing the use of pumice
stone.
Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the
cellulose fibre, leaving the interior of the fibre as it
is, by removing the indigo present in the surface
layer of fibre.

Cellulase enzyme is classified into two

classes:
Acid Cellulase:
It works best in the pH range of 4.5-5.5
and exhibit optimum activity at 50C.
Neutral cellulase:
It works best at pH 6 however its activity
is not adversely affected in the range of pH
6-8 and show maximum activity at 55C.

Neutral Cellulase:
These are the enzymes which are active between
pH: 6-8
lower abrasion than acid celluloses
low back staining
pH 6 - 8.0
Acid Cellulase:
high abrasion
higher back-staining than neutral cellulases
pH 4.5 - 5.5
optimized pH and temperature = maximum activity of the
enzyme

Acid cellulose
Recipe and Condition

Cellulose 450 AP (OWG)

0.5 1 gm/l
Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor)
0.5 1 gm/l
White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 2 gm/l
Treat at 50C and pH 5 for 30-45 mins

Neutral cellulose
Recipe and Condition

Americos cellucom 110 OM (OWG)

0.5 1 gm/l
Lube pro VX ( crease inhibitor)
0.5 1 gm/l
Americos White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) 1 2gm/l
Treat at 50C and pH 5 for 30-45 mins

PROCEDURE
1. Load stones in machine (normally 0.5 - 2.0 part
weight stones: 1 part weight garments) if
applicable.
2. Load garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Rinse.
5. Add cellulase enzyme (amount, pH, temperature,
and cycle time dependent upon type of fabric and
desired effects; manufacturer's recommendations
should be followed).
6. Adjust pH as recommended.
7. Tumble 30-90 minutes.

8. Drain.
*9. Rinse well (70C).
10. Drain.
11. Rinse well (70C).
12. Drain. Separate garments from stones if
used (garments can be transferred to
another machine).
13. Apply softener.
14. Extract and unload.
15. De-stone and tumble dry.
16. Press, if require

Advantage of enzyme washing

Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained
without severe damage to the surface of yarn.
Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.
Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster.
Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of
wear.
Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.
Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive.
Fancy colour - flenced surface can be obtained without or a
partial use of stone.
More reproducible effect can be obtained.
It allows more loading of the garment into machines

 Environmental friendly treatment.

Less damage to seam edges and badges.
Wear and tear of equipment is minimum due to
absence of stone.
Use of softener can be avoided or minimised.
Easy handling of floor and severs as messy
sludge of stones does not interfere.
Due to absence of stone, labour intensive
operation of stone removal is not required.
Homogenous abrasion of the garments.
Puckering effect can also be obtained

ACID WASH
It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones
presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or
potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for localized bleaching
resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast.
To remove the colour only on the surface of the garment and
produces a frosted appearance
In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be
enhanced by optical brightening.
The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition
of water is not required.

Procedure:
Soak the stones in solution of sodium hypochlorite (5 to 10%) or
potassium permanganate (3 to 6%) for 1-2 hrs
Stones should be drained of excess liquor with help of mesh
Placed stones and garments in machine
Tumble for 30 mins or until desire effects are achieved. Results
are dependent up on the dyestuff, fabric, and concentration of
chemical, stones, additives, and equipment
In some cases, stones can be used ( resoaking, porosity )
Rinse
Apply softener
Tumble dry
Press, if req.

Limitations of acid wash:

Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow
after wet processing.
The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete
neutralization, washing or rinsing.

Remedy:
Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with
addition of ethelene- diamine -tetra acetic acid as chelating
agent.
Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone
wash, but came with added dangers, expenses, and
pollution

MICROSANDING
There are 3 ways for this technique:
Sandblasting
Machine sanding
Hand sanding or hand brushing

Used in various ways: Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)

On the dummy (inflatable dummies,
sometimes standing, sometimes flat,
sometimes 'seated')
Various templates can be used to create a
3D effect.

SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive
material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle
at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the
garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/
abraded/used look.
It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
Any number of designs could be created by special techniques

Advantages :
Pure chemical process
Water free process therefore no need
drying
Variety of distresses or abraded looks
possible
Any number of designs could be created by
special finishes

Wrinkle Free Finish (or) Anticrease Finish (Or) WashN- Wear Finish
Cotton fabrics are mainly selected for apparels because of
their durability, ability to with stand the rough laundering,
good absorption, comfort to wear and ability to take up a
wide range of dyestuffs.
The main headache with the cotton fabric is CREASE
formation during washing, laundering and in use. It is an
undesirable property and hence the crease resistant finish is
to be given. It is called as Anti-crease finish or Crease
resistant or Crease recovery finish or 'Wash-n- Wear
finishes.

Object of Anti-crease finish

Cotton, viscose fabrics form creases during washing,
laundering and in use.
To prevent it, the anti-crease finish is given. It is called as
Anti-crease finish or Crease resistant or Crease recovery
finish or 'Wash-n- Wear' finishes.
As the resins are used, it is also called as 'Resin finishing'.
It is a permanent chemical finish.
To keep the fabric flat smooth and free from undesirable
creases

 Usually cotton, linen, viscose and cuprammonium

rayon are finished with resin
Depends on
1. Amount and type of resin
2. Amount and type of catalyst
3. Curing conditions
4. Quality of cotton
5. Process preceding finishing and possible damage

MECHANISM OF CREASE FORMATION

Cotton cellulose molecular chain contains OH groups in both
amorphous and crystalline region.
When a load is applied on to cotton fabric, the cellulose chain
bends and this bending remains permanent since the chains are
In-elastic.
The hydrogen bonds form, between the adjacent chains in the
crystalline region are broken and new hydrogen bond are formed
at the folding points and in amorphous region, which do not allow
the chain to return. Hence the creases are formed.

Method to prevent creases

The method of minimizing the formation of creases
involves cross-linking the OH groups of adjacent
cellulosic chains by means of cross-linking agents.
The introduction of cross-links imparts dimensional
stability and elasticity to the fibrous material an
makes it crease resistant and crease recoverable.
The most commonly used cross-linking agents are
nothing but resins. The resins react with OH groups of
cellulose forming cross links which is durable

Advantages of resin finishing

It improves the Crease Resistance and Crease Recovery

property
It reduces the shrinkage of fabric during laundering
It improves the resilience, drape and handle
It imparts a smooth and quick drying property
It improves the Dimensional stability and weight
It increase the strength of rayons in both wet and dry states
It gives resistance to degradation by light and laundering
It improves the fastness to light and wash
It prevents the inter-molecular slippage in the fibre
It becomes partially water proof and rot proof

Disadvantages
It decreases the tensile strength and tearing
strength
It decreases the abrasion resistance
It gives harsh and stiff feel
It gives an unpleasant odour
It turns yellow after chlorine bleaching

Resins
DMU

Di Methylol Urea

DMEU

Di Methylol Ethylene Urea

DMDHEU

Di Methylol Di Hydroxy Ethylene Urea

TMM

Tri Methylol Melamine

Recipe
For Shirting cloth (Cotton, PIC, PN)
DMU/DMDHEU

80 -100 gpl

cross-linking resin

MgCl2 -

8 - 10 gpl

catalyst for cross linking reaction

PE emulsion

20 gpl

Lubricant

Reactive softener

30 gpl

softener

Process
Padding in two bowl padding mangle with 80% expression
at room temperature
Drying in stenter with minimum tension at 70 - 80C
Cure at 120C -150C for 2-5 min Cross-linking and
polymerization takes place
Washing and soaping - I-2gpl soap or TRO and 2-4 gpl
soda ash at 50 -60C for 10 min acidity is neutralised
Softening and drying - rinsed in water with softener
Stentering

LASER TECHNOLOGY
It is a computer controlled process for denim
fading.
This technique enables patterns to be created
such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even
pictures.
It is water free fading of denim.
Being an automatic system, chances of human
error are slim.
Also called spray painting in denims.
This technique has relatively high cost