Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Arvind Limited Denim Division Arushi Sri
Arvind Limited Denim Division Arushi Sri
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT
Certificate of Authenticity
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V, National
Institute Of Fashion Technology, New Delhi did their internships at
Arvind
Limited
Denim
Division,
Naroda,
Ahemdabad
from
May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of the program
B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).
This project report has been created and compiled by them under the guidance of
Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.
Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai
Page 2
Acknowledgement
Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai
Page 3
Contents
07
1.2.Journey
09
1.3.Companys Vision
11
1.4.Divions
1.4.1. Denim
12
13
1.4.3. Knits
16
17
18
19
20
21
1.5.Executive Leaders
22
1.6.Board of Directors
24
1.7.Denim Division
28
1.8.International buyers
30
1.9.Own Brands
31
2. Production Process
2.1.Process Flow Chart
32
2.2.Spinning
2.2.1. Process Flow
33
34
2.2.3. Carding
38
Page 4
2.2.4. Drawing
40
2.2.5. Spinning
42
2.3.Warp Dyeing
2.3.1. Introduction
46
48
54
2.4.Weaving
59
61
62
66
3.2.Design Line
69
70
3.4.Technical Team
71
74
4.2.Process Defects
76
4.3.Testing
4.3.1. Physical
79
4.3.2. Chemical
80
4.3.3. Shade
82
83
4.5.Accreditations
84
Page 5
87
5.1.1. Introduction
89
5.1.2. Features
90
91
92
92
93
93
5.1.8. Support
94
5.1.9. Costs
94
5.1.10.
96
5.1.11.
Overview of Requirements
98
101
102
103
5.2.4. Benefits
5.2.4.1. Economical Benefits
105
106
106
107
108
5.2.7. Conclusion
109
6. References
110
Page 6
Introduction
Page 7
Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for
leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By
1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third
largest producer of Denim in the world.
Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber
agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile
trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the
rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry
was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.
Page 8
Journey
1931
The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers - Kasturbhai,
Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai
1934
Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
1980
Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno vision,
points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-quality
premium niche market.
1987-88
Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure
and Denim for fashion wear.
1991
Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.
Page 9
1997
Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at
Santej.
2005
Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment
packages to reputed national and international customers.
2007
Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing
MegaMart One of Indias largest value retail chains.
2010
Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the companys best fabrics,
brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof. Arvind
launches its first major Real Estate projects. Arvind becomes one of Indias largest
producers of fire protection fabrics.
Page
10
Companys Vision
OUR PHILOSOPHY
WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in
focus on problem solving; in teams for effective
performance, in the power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher
responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for
the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and
activate all intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and
prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.
Page
11
We
will enable
people to
experience a
better quality of
life by providing
enriching and
inspiring lifestyle
solutions.
Divisions
Denim
The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with
an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading
producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been
Arvinds core competency and have played a key role in Arvinds success. The use
of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned
designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets.
All Arvinds products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design
inputs coming from Arvinds designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the
United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvinds labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) and customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
Page
12
Woven Fabrics
Arvinds expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled.
Arvinds shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and
international markets. Arvinds state of the art facility is capable of producing a
total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This
capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next
financial year.
Arvinds spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like
compacts, slubs, signed yarn etc. Arvinds weaving capabilities include high-speed
Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Arvinds finishing capabilities include continuous
bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for various
chemical and mechanical finishes.
Page
13
Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon.
hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle firbers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose
Over the years, Arvinds inhouse R&D department has sucessfully developed
Page
14
Voiles
Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in
India. An uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still
continues to manufacture the traditional fabric for both domestic and
international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends from the olden days into a
golden future with a production capacity of 36 million meters per annum. Arvinds
voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market
through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail
outlets throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri
Lanka and countries in the Middle East.
Page
15
Knits
Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing
capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and
open-width fabrics and offers specialty fin+ishes like mercerization, singeing and
various forms of brushing and peaching.
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock
Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.
Page
16
Garment Exports
Page
17
Advanced Materials
Arvind Brands
Licensened Brands
Mainstream
Bridge to Luxury
Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant
U.S.A. 1949
Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine
Energie
Popular
Premium
Premium
USPA
Lee
Arrow
Wrangler
Izod
Popular
Cherokee
Mossimo
Page
19
Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The MegaMart format
offers a unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega
brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end
department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger
stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore,
Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are
205 in number. Megamart is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr
chain within the next two years.
RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE
Page
20
After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has
now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail.
The Arvind Store bring together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer.
It is a convergence of three of Arvinds strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics
from Arvinds textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and
bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios.
In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store
will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.
Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim
Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized
washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world
Arvind Studio A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the
world
Page
21
Corporate
Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products
Lifestyle Fabrics
Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts
Page
22
Executive Leaders
Knowledge Academy
Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge Academy
Page
23
Board of Directors
Page
24
Page
25
OTHER DIRECTORS
Page
26
Page
27
Denim Division
Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the
world; and an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in
this category include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim
and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy
weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100%
cotton and various blends.
Page
28
All the products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design
inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United
States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and
quality.
Page
29
Page
30
International Buyers
Page
31
Own Brands
Production Process
Page
32
Production Process
Spinning
Packaging
Spinning
Drawing
Carding
Blow Room
[Blending]
LAY OUT
SLEEVE ROOM
BLENDOM
AT
COTTON GODOWN
FILTER
YARN STORAGE AREA
BLOW ROOM
FILTER
ROOM
EXTENSION CARDING
CARDING
AUTO
CORO
STORE
DRAW FRAME
AUTO CORO
Page
33
BLOW ROOM
Input
Cotton Bales
-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic
particle, dusts etc.
Purpose
Opening
Cleaning
Mixing or blending
Dust removal
Uniform feed to the carding machine
Output
Clean & open small tufts
No. of Machines 2 Lines with 12 machines
Machine make
Trtzschler
No. of Operators 2 Operators ( 1op/mc)
OBJECTIVES
Page
34
GBR
AFC
AFC
MPM-8
MPM-8
ASTA
ASTA
BE-961
BE-961
SRS-6
SRS-6
RN
RN
BE-981
BE-981
RSK
RSK
DUST-EX
DUST-EX
FBK 533
FBK 533
CARDING
CARDING
Page
35
Blendomat
o Blending of different types of cotton to maintain consistency
GBR
o Cotton Opener
o Converts bales into small tufts
AFC
o Axi-Flow Cleaner
o Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton
MPM-8
o Multiple Mixer with 8 Chambers
o Sorts the cotton fibers & is used for homogenous mixture of fibers
ASTA
o Heavy trash separation from
BE-961
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning
SRS-6
o Cleaning
Page
36
RN
o Cleaning
BE-981
o Reservoir trunk with opening & cleaning
RSK
o Cleaning
DUST-EX
o Removal of Dust & Micro dust
FBK 533
o Enables continuous feeding from Blow Room to Carding
Page
37
CARDING
Input
Purpose
Output
No. of Operators
No. of Machines
Machine make
Model
Production
Card cleaning efficiency
CV%
Front Delivery speed
Page
38
Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded
sliver of parallelized and straightened fibers
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must
be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be
straightened.
The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING.
The work is done by carding machine.
The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on rapidly revolving
cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves
concentrically above this cylinder
As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the
small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining
trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel
manner in form of a thin web.
This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a
round rope like mass called card sliver.
Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons that are serviceable to
produce denim fabrics.
Page
39
DRAW FRAME
Input
Purpose
Slivers
6 Slivers are converted into 1
Parallelization of fiber
Enhancement of Density
Blending
Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness
Output
Sliver
No. of Operators
3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)
No. of Machines
6 Breakers + 6 finishers
Machine make
Trtzschler
Model
HSR 900
Production
3.5 ton/day
Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the
number of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear
density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity
or evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passages utilised depends on
the spinning system used and the end products
Page
40
In arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw frame twice.
1ST PASSAGE:
Parallel alignment of fibers, 6 slivers are converted into one sliver.
2nd PASSAGE:
Output of the second passage of draw frame goes into open end
spinning.
Page
41
SPINNING
The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology
spinning.
Fehlafharfts AUTOCORO spinning machine.
No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) 11+7+6
Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:
AML Section 2376 rotors
EOU Section 1680 rotors
RDP Section 1440 rotor.
Twist produced: Z twist only.
Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.
Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer
Count: 5.3 to 20 count.
6 slub forming machine
The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.
The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.
Page
42
Page
43
The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and
centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where
they are evenly distributed.
The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor,
and the yarn is continuously drawn from the center of the rotor. The
resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages.
The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of
ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn
is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is
a lot cheaper to produce.
Rotor spun yarns are more even, somewhat weaker and have a
harsher feel than ring spun yarns.
Rotor spun yarns are mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne,
20 tex) to coarse count (10 Ne, 60 tex) range.
The yarn is wound on a big package of about 4 kg.
The use of this system has two basic advantages. It is fed by sliver,
not as with the ring frame by roving, and so eliminates the speed
frame from the process line. It can also be modified to remove any
remaining trash, thereby improving the yarn quality.
Page
44
Ring Spinning
Open-end Spinning
of twist
insert twist
Stronger
Page
45
Warp Dyeing
Introduction
Warp DyeingNormally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing.
The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two
most popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are:
1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher/Sheet Dyeing
Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail
below.
Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming
parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping
machines can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and
staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic
yarn such as glass.
A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A
weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain
from warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn
thats why first section beam can be obtained and then these section beam are
combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for
weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and then
weaving process is carried out .
Page
46
Warping method used for both method of dyeing are different. The process
used for rope dyeing is known as BALL WARPING and for slasher dyeing
BEAM WARPING method is used.
BEAM WARPING BALL WARPING
Page
47
Warp Dyeing
Rope Dyeing
1. ROPE DYEING
Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads
of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then undergo a
repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization. The more frequent the
dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.
1 rope = 350-460 ends
Process Flowchart-
Ball Warping
Rope Dyeing
Re-Beaming
Sizing
Technical Details as per the company- 5 Machines in total for the process
- 1 operator is required per machine
- Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min
- Stop Motion / Defect sensor
- 444 ends per creel
- 320 metes/min creels rpm
- 4 hour cycle time
Page
48
2)
Machine passage- 800 meters; 5 rolls are used per chamber run.
Machine Units for the processi)
ii)
Pre
Washing
Zone
iii)
Dyeing Zone
Ph range- 12.45,
Redox potential -820mv to -860mv
Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3 PSI
Dancer Weight- 6
*For indigo dyeing dip time: air time is 1:6
iv)
Wash
Zone
Temp- 50+/- 5 C
Sq. Pressure PSI- 90
Dancer Weights- 6
Ash flow- 100+/-5
v)
Hot Wash
Zone
Temp- 85C
Ph range- 12.60 12.85
Redox- -810 to -660
Sq- 75 PSI
Dancer Weight- 6
Drying Cans
48 cylinders in total
5 bar pressure
Coiling Units
Page
49
Page
50
3)
4)
Sizing To cover the yarn with size material in order to prevent breakage
Page
51
Process- Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)
- Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90C and any of the 4
recepies mentioned as
per the requirement
64 reed, 43 water, 600gm NS powder/binder, 100kkg with starch
Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg
800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)
1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)
125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot
- Drying slot- approx. 125C temp and 4 cylinders
- Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each
5)
Chemical
Box(gpl)
Feed(gpl)
S. Black
170/480
Caustic
1.5
Page
52
Sulphide
10
35
Xekol SNS
1.5
1.9
Setamol WL
0.57
1.9
Primasol NF
1.9
Condition
Indigo
Sulphur
Ph +/- 0.2
12.45-12.70
12.55-12.85
820-860
610-660
Redox +/20
Wetability
Instant to 3 seconds
Page
53
50 o 60 ms
Warp Dyeing
Slasher Dyeing
2. SLASHER DYEING
In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping
beams are used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing
system. At the back end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct
warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over
and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that multiple sheets
of yarns can be made.
In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are
dyed, dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous slasher dyeing
range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as
re-beaming, sizing.
Process Flowchart-
Pre wetting
Washing
Dyeing
Washing
Drying
Sizing
Drying
Page
54
Pre Wetting
Zone
(Dyeing tank)
Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm3
ii)
Dyeing
iii)
Washing
1500 l
iv)
Drying
8 cylinders
6 bar pressure in total
v)
Sizing
vi)
Drying
Cans
12 cylinders in total
5 bar pressure
vii)
Accumulator
220m capacity
viii)
Compensator
and leasing
Page
55
Recipe
Sulphur
Indigo
Decol- 2 gpl
Indigo- 75 gpl
Caustic- 5 gpl
Caustic- 75 gpl
Sulphur- X gpl
Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl
28 +/- 1 meter/min
6+/- 1 Bar
Creel tension
Page
56
Pre wet
d.p
3 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
Squeezing pressure
50 +/- 3 bar
55 +/- 3 bar
PW temp
85 +/- 4
Dyeing
D.P.
3 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar
3 +/- .5 bar
Squeezing Pressure
(i) (ii)
45 +/-3 bar
Page
57
Washing Zone
D.P.
2.5 +/- .5
2.5 +/- .5
3.0 +/- .5
Squeezing Pressure
(i)
Temp
50 +/- 4 C
Page
58
Weaving
Introduction
Input
Output
No. of Operators
6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)
No. of Machines
54
Machine make
Tsudakoma
Model
ZAX 9100
Production
95000m/day
71.5
Full Weaver's
Beam
Tension Roll
Drop Pins
Heald Wires
Lower Press
Roll
Friction Roll
Upper Press
Roll
Reed
Bottom Guide
Roll
Batching
guide Roll
Batching Roll
Cloth Roll
Page
59
AUTHENTIC DENIM
A heavy weight fabric
Made of cotton yarn with no yarn characteristics
3/1 right hand twill
100% natural indigo dyed
Weft and warp count 7 & 6 respectively with 36 picks per inch
Page
60
Introduction
The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.
The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.
1. HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple
handle, softness and good drape.
2. HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths,
dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.
3. BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation,
moisture absorption and air permeability.
4. SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability,
mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.
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61
Singeing Unit
Mercerizing Unit
Stentering Unit
Wet Finishing Unit
I.
Singeing Unit
Craddle Unit
Inlet J Unit
Brushing Unit
Singeing Unit
Nip Unit
Outlet J Unit
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62
Wet Finishing
Mercerizing Unit
Inlet J Unit
Brushing Unit
Caustic Impregnatorr
Stablizer Unit
Washing Unit
Acid Unit
Drying Zone
Outlet J Unit
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63
III.
Stentering Unit
Inlet J Unit
Brushing Unit
Chemical Padder
Cliping Unit
Chamber
CNG Fire
Blower
Heat Setting
Coling Drum
Outlet J Unit
Batching Unit
Page
64
Inlet J Unit
Brushing Unit
Chemical Padding
Nip
Skew line
Mahalo Unit
Rubber Unit
Palmer Unit
Outlet J Unit
Batching Unit
Page
65
Design Team
DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills projects.
The department has been constituted in such a manner that it has 2 parts The Design Team
The Technical Team
Design Team:
The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.
It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along
with the textile experts and textile designers.
The team works together to create a completely different denim design.
Though it seems like innovation in design in denims has limited scope,
this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking
skills to come up with unprecedented designs.
They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the various
parts of the world, research it and come up with innovative ideas.
These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for
top fashion experts to see and review, and hence maintain the
exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.
Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara,
Abercrombie and Fitch, Mango, Gap and many others, select these
designs and order them to be produced in mass.
The designs can be created by changing one of the following
characteristics of the fabric:
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66
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67
Finishes Applied:
o Fabrics can be re-innovated in terms of the type of finish
applied, Now-a-days, there are a variety of finishes that can
be applied to any fabric and same goes for denim. Usually
mercerization is a process not done for denims, as it does
not require very soft and smooth fibers, but inclusion of
finished like mercerization or resin finish, can completely
change the look and feel of the fabric. Other aesthetic
finishes, like partial napping or emerization, anti-crease
finish, permanent creases by resin finish can be given.
*The fabric, Excel Denims, would be manufactured in Arvind Groups production
facility in Ahmedabad, which has a capacity of 120 million metres of fabric per annum.
While Birla Cellulose would be involved in the R&D to create the fibre made of super
refined wood pulp, Arvind would be manufacturing the fabric and selling them both in
the domestic and international markets.
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Design Lines
The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new
products are added to it every day:
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SPIES
o Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically
treated during spinning.
NEO
o Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.
KHADI
o Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look,
drape, fall. On the principle of sustainability.
JACQUARD
o Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for
one fabric and different look.
RING
LINEN
o 100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a
premium line
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Technical Team
The technical team of the development and new technology team aims
at developing the fabric as per customer requirements.
They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together
and collaborate with each of the processing units to get the desired
output of the fabric.
Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and
processes to be followed to create the fabric exactly matching customer
requirements.
Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department,
they are delegated to the individual units for mass production.
The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more than
8000 fabrics, that have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs
range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on any of
the factors mentioned above.
Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in
bulk, The data then goes to PPC department, that is production Planning
and Control and the mass production of fabrics start.
Collection development is done at least one year in advance and
presented on a road show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order.
These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric
characteristic being showcased.
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DID
Customer
Development
Collection
Development
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74
Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the
fabric depends on the customer preferences.
There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the
defects. The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement
defects are allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4point allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.
4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:
Size of defect
Penalty Points
3 or less
1 Point
3.1 to 6
2 Points
6.1 to 9
3 Points
More than 9
4 Points
2 Points
More than 1
4 Points
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DEFECTS
Major Defects are classified as follows: Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous
yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.
Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle
line, barre, slub,hole, press off.
Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop,
color smear or shading.
Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as
SECONDS .
At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production
plan for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The
finishing department gives the material transfer note to the inspection
department where the material is checked for the following defects:
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77
Check for skewed, bowed and biased fabric. For this purpose check the bowing
and s skewing at every 10 meters.
The bowing and skewing are calculated as follows:
Bow: A bow is an uneven deviation of a weft from a line drawn perpendicular to
the selvedge of the fabric.
A bow may have different forms:
If the average Bowing or Skewing for a roll is more than 2-3%, reject the roll.
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TESTING
Physical Testing:
Chemical testing
Tests requested by preferred customers:
ISO-3071
Crocking
Water Repellency
ISO 105-E01
Acid
ISO 105-E02
Alkali
ISO 105-E04
POLO method
Ph
ISO-3071
Crocking
ISO 105*12
WATER repellency
ISO 105-E01
Acid
ISO 105-E02
Alkali
ISO 105-E04
Washing
C06-AIM
SPOT TEST
SI 1005
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AATCC
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Shade testing:
The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.
HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to
process, display, analyze and report color measurement results.
Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color
difference data in all widely used color scales, for various lighting and
observing conditions. Pass/Fail functions provide fast go/no-go decisions.
Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.
Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots
and spectral curves.
All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database
programs.
The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots
deviations from avg and perfect sample for each roll.
It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from
normal value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and
minimize shade variation.
It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorization of rolls. So that
the consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various
shades
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* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the packaging
dept so as to put on the required details and ship the consignment.
The details that need to be present on the packaging are:
Shipment no.
Date
Sort no
F.M.C
Code no
Meters
Flags/points
Opt no.
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ACCREDITATIONS
IS0 14000:
Provides environment management standards to help organisations
minimize their negative impact on the environment
Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by third party
Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000
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Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and
Indigo dyed denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric including
stretch denims.
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification
system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all
stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited
or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health,
and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to
safeguard health.
Levis strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods
and conditions set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.
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Project Report
Project Title
o Arvinds Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives
Objective
o Introduction to BCI
o Arvinds Implementation of BCI Norms
o Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma
Cotton
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Brief
Methodology
o Secondary research
Understanding of BCI and its Norms.
o Primary Research
Data Collection
Quality Analysis of BCI bunny Brahma Cotton
Quality Analysis of Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Analysis of the differences between BCI-Bunny Brahma &
Bunny Brahma Cotton
o Conclusion
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88
Introduction
INTRODUCTION
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89
KEY FEATURES
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90
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91
PRODUCTION PRINCIPLES
BC is produced by farmers who minimize the harmful impact of crop
protection practices
BC is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the
availability of water
BC is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil
BC is produced by farmers who conserve natural habitats
BC is produced by farmers who care for and preserve the quality of the
fiber
BC is produced by farmers who promote decent work
CRITERIA FOR ASSESSMENT
Pass and fail:
Producer need to respect Better Cotton Minimum Production Criteria in
order to get a license to produce BC. The BC system aims at continuous
improvement. It is not organized as a simple pass or fail system but goes
beyond by integrating elements of capacity building, data management,
and progress.
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AUDIT INFORMATION
1st, 2nd, 3rd party certification:
The BC assurance system is a combination of self-assessment, second party
credibility checks and third party verification.
Frequency of audits:
Yearly
One year.
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SUPPORT
To help farmers adopt practices consistent with the BCI Production Principles, BCI
coordinates a program of farmer support activities delivered through experienced
Implementing Partners.
Farmers support covers knowledge sharing and skills development and effective
producer organization For Implementing Partners, three of the BC System
components focus on support. BCI provides a Step by Step Guide to
Implementation for both smallholders and large farms and annual workshops that
help companies understand and implement the BCI program. Applications for
financial grants can be submitted twice a year through an online form. The
funding contribution matches up to a maximum of 50% of the total project cost.
Members receive supply chain support from dedicated supply chain coordinators,
as well as Secretariat and Council support through Caucus calls, BCI hosted events
and webinars.
COSTS
Membership fee: The membership fee is based on member category, size
and either annual lint cotton consumption, annual turnover/income, or
whether the organization is based in an OECD Country or a non-OECD
country.
Certification costs: Third party verification costs are born by large farms or
by BCI in the case of smallholders.
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Medium-term requirement:
The BCI Progress Requirements form an additional set of requirements
that farmers, after meeting the Minimum Production Criteria must
complete with a minimum number of additional benchmarks within the
following 3 growing seasons, while of course maintaining compliance to the
Minimum Production Criteria. These progress requirements are
presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term
requirements.
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OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:
EXPLANATION:
Critical:
The BCI Minimum Production Criteria form the initial core requirements
for farmers to grow Better Cotton. These criteria are presented in the
Standards Map database as critical requirements.
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98
Medium term:
After meeting the Minimum Production Criteria, Better Cotton farmers
have to meet Progress Requirements. These progress requirements are
presented in the Standards Map database as Medium-term requirements.
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100
Introduction
As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop
models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw
material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated
contract farming projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in
Tapi district of Gujarat State.
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Farm Projects
Akola
Nizar
(Maharashtra)
(Gujarat)
2010
2011
131
58
189
15,000
10,400
25,400
3,000
2,600
5,600
15,000
13,000
28,000
45,000
40,000
85,000
35,000
40,000
75,000
Details of Project
Project Since
No. of Villages
Total
benefitted
Cotton Type
Bunny/Brahma Sankar-6(SUP)
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Contract Farming
From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and
thorough.
Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.
Infrastructure and capacity building:
This includes research, collaborations with national & international organizations,
research institutions, etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities.
Building the right team:
A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease
specialist and MSW (for carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.
Training:
Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest and
disease management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender issues,
etc.) and business models to improve productivity. Guidance material on better
management practices based on Better Cotton Production criteria is developed.
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Benefits
A HOLISTIC APPROACH
TO CONTRACT
FARMING WHERE THE
ECONOMIC, SOCIAL
AND
ENVIRONMENTAL
BENEFITS NOT ONLY
CO-EXIST BUT ALSO
AUGMENT EACH
OTHER.
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Economic benefits
Reduced cost of production: The cost of production is reduced through the
collective purchase of farm inputs and better, economical deals from
suppliers.
Better profitability: The need for middle men has been eliminated as
Arvind ensures that the produce is bought at the farmer's door step.
Better access to affordable finance: Dependence on local moneylenders
has also been reduced as farmers are encouraged to deal with reliable
financial institutions.
Better nutrient, pest and disease management: Better management
practices ensure reduced use of inputs (like synthetic pesticides & fertilizers
), untimely reducing the risk taken in synthetic pesticides handling and
application.
Knowledge sharing and skill development: Farmers receive practical
knowledge on production principles that can decrease the cost of
production and increase profitability.
Quality of fibre: From soil preparation to harvesting and segregating better
quality cotton at the farm gate, our agronomist are involved in every
process to ensure better quality cotton.
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Environmental benefits
Water efficiency: The learning forums provide know how on using water
efficiently through micro irrigation.
Soil health: Reduced use of pesticides, micro irrigation and regular soil
tests ensure better soil health.
Social benefits
Decent work ethics: The initiative gives men, women and backward classes
equal employment and income opportunities (equal and approved wages).
Quality Assessment
Akola (Maharashtra)
Nizar (Gujarat)
29.0 +
29.0 +
29.0 +
29.0 +
3.5 - 4.3
3.7 - 4.4
Strict Middling
Strict Middling
Upon Lifting
Upon Lifting
5% HVI Results
5% HVI Results
Quality Parameters
Micronaire
Grade
UBI Codes
Advantage Arvind
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UHM STR
L
4.12 5.28
UHML
Str
MIC
UI
SFI
Elg
+b
Rd
Lint%
Inv%
Trash%
M%
Nep
1.77
MIC
UI
SFI
Elg
(+b)
8.62
81.6
7.9
6.7
8.1
3.37
82.8
6.7
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Rd
(mm)
(g/tex)
(mg/inch)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(Avg.)
(CV%)
(CV%)
(CV%)
Conclusion
As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to
develop models that make production of its most valued and most extensively
used raw material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.
Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle of the
workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall quality level of
Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level of Cotton fibers.
The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite being
manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton from the
same areas.
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REFERENCE
WEB-REFERENCES
www.arvindmills.com
http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php
http://www.bettercotton.org/
www.garmento.org
www.denimology.com
www.cottoninc.com
BOOKS
Fabric science Glock and Kunj
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