Chapter 2 Fibers and Their Properties

y Natural Fibers
◦ 2 main categories
x Cellulosic – plants
x Protein - animals

◦ Other categories such as

x Mineral - asbestos
Manufactured Fibers
y Manufactured Cellulosic
◦ Created from cellulose
◦ Rayon and Acetate

y Synthetics
◦ Synthesized chemically, often from petroleum
◦ Nylon (DuPont)
Fiber Properties
y Determine how fiber used
◦ Rayon = weak fiber
◦ Nylon = strong fiber

Refer to Box 2.2 Fiber Properties & Definitions

See Table 2.1 Properties of Major Textile Fibers

Physical Properties
These are seen with naked eye or under microscope

y Color
◦ Natural fibers vary in shade from white to black
◦ Manufactured - white
Physical Properties
y Shape
◦ Length
◦ Cross section
◦ Contour
◦ Crimp
◦ Covering Power
◦ Hand / Texture
◦ Luster
Staple & Filament Fibers
y Different characteristics when made into
yarn or fabric
x Length: from 0 – 18”
x Softer
x Less luster
◦ Filament fibers
x Filament: long – 18” +
x Smoother than staple
x More Lustrous
x May be crimped
Cross Section and Surface Contour
y Cross Section - See Fig. 2-3 on p. 18
◦ appearance across fiber’s diameter
◦ The cross section affects other properties
x i.e. round reflects less light

y Surface Contour
◦ Longitudinal appearance – direct result of
cross section
x Striations
Photomicrograph of wool fibers
(cross section)
Photomicrograph of
viscose rayon fibers
Diameter
y Width of the cross section
◦ Measured differently in natural fibers than
manufactured fibers
x Manufactured fibers - Denier system or the
International System (SI)
x Natural fibers – measured in microns
Crimp
y Waves or bumps of a fiber
◦ Occurs naturally in wool
◦ Can be added to manufactured fibers to
emulate a natural fiber
x Added during the texturing phase
Covering Power
y Ability to hide what is underneath
◦ Refer to Fig. 2 – 4 on p. 19
◦ Fibers with texture or crimp are better than
smooth fibers
Hand or Texture
y Refers to the Feel of the Fiber
y All shape characteristics effect the hand
◦ Filament smoother than staple
◦ Fine diameter softer, less stiff than thick fibers
◦ Textured or crimped feel fluffier
Luster
y Amount of light reflected off a fiber
◦ Silk – high luster
◦ Usually manufactured fibers are high luster –
see Fig. 2-6 on p. 20
x Sometimes delustered
Mechanical Properties
y Abrasion resistance
◦ Ability of a fiber to withstand the effects of
rubbing or friction
◦ major factor in the durability of a fiber

◦ Pilling – the formation of little balls of loose

fibers on the surface of a fabric – results from
abrasion
Mechanical Properties
y Dimensional Stability
◦ Ability of a fiber to maintain its original shape,
neither shrinking nor stretching
y Elastic recovery
◦ Ability of a fiber to return to its original
length after it is stretched.
y Creep recovery
◦ A fiber that will slowly recover its original
length after being stretched.
Mechanical Properties
y Elongation
◦ The lengthening or stretching of a fiber –
refers only to the fact that the fiber can be
lengthened.
y Flexibility
◦ Fibers that can bend or fold easily
◦ Drape – how a fabric hangs in graceful folds
Mechanical Properties con’t
y Resiliency or wrinkle recovery
y The ability of a fiber to return to its original
shape after being bent or folded

y Compressional resiliency or loft

y The ability of a fiber to return to its original
thickness after it has been crushed
Mechanical Properties con’t
y Specific gravity
◦ Density
◦ Compares the mass of a fiber to an equal
volume of water

y Tenacity
◦ Fiber strength
◦ Important to wear life of the textile product
Chemical Properties
y Absorbency
◦ Moisture regain
◦ Its ability to take in moisture
y Hydrophilic fibers
◦ philic = likes
◦ Can absorbs moisture – are comfortable
y Hydrophobic fibers
◦ Phobic = dislikes
◦ Do not absorb moisture readily
Chemical Properties
y Hygroscopic fibers
◦ Can absorb moisture without feeling wet
◦ Ex. Animal hairs

y Wicking
◦ A fiber’s ability to carry moisture along its
surface
◦ Ex. acrylic
Chemical Properties con’t
y Electrical Conductivity
y Fibers that do NOT conduct electricity create
static electricity

y Epitropic fibers
y Synthetic fibers that have small particles of
carbon embedded in their surface.
y These particles conduct electricity.
Chemical Properties con’t
y Chemical Reactivity
y How it reacts to chemicals such as dyes, pigments,
soaps, detergents and bleaches
◦ Acids
x Damages natural cellulosics.
x Does not harm protein fibers.
◦ Bases or alkalis
x Do not harm cellulosic (cotton).
x Will damage protein fibers.
Chemical Properties con’t
◦ Oxidizing agents
x Ex. Bleach
x Some fibers are damaged by this
x Safe for polyester, nylon, and cotton (controlled)
x Will damage protein fibers

◦ Solvents
x Used in dry cleaning
x Organic solvents used to remove oily stains and
dirt
x Ex. Acetone damages acetate and triacetate
Chemical Properties con’t
y Effects of Heat
◦ Thermoplastic
x Most synthetics are thermoplastic
x They soften or melt when exposed to heat
x Cellulosic / Protein may scorch or burn when
exposed to high heat
◦ Heat Setting
x Applying heat and pressure in a controlled maner
to permanently change the shape / improve the
dimensional stability of thermoplastic fibers.
Heat set garments of Issey Miyake
Chemical Properties con’t
y Flammability
◦ Fireproof – Unaffected by fire

◦ Flame resistant – will ignite if placed in

open flame but will not continue to burn after
the flame is removed

◦ Flammable – easy to ignite and will

continue to burn
Chemical Properties con’t
y Flammability
◦ Noncombustible – will not burn but can
meilt and decompose at a high temperature

◦ Self-extinguishing – will stop burning

when the flame is removed

◦ Thermally stable – will not readily burn

or shrink when exposed to a flame.
Environmental Properties
y Sensitivity to:
◦ Climate
x May loose strength
x Become
◦ Microorganisms
x Mold and mildew can damage textiles
◦ Insects
x Moths, carpet beetles, silver fish – attach fibers