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Wet Processing Technology .Industrial Re PDF
Wet Processing Technology .Industrial Re PDF
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
AT
TEXEUROP (BD) LTD.
A REPORT
By
TARIKUL ISLAM
H. M. SIRAJ UDDIN
MD. TAUFIKUL ISLAM
MD. RIAZ MAHMUD
1
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
AT
TEXEUROP (BD) LTD.
A REPORT
By
Submitted to the
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
DHAKA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY,
GAZIPUR.
In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of the degree
of
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1
PROJECT DESCRIPTION
1.1 Name of the Project
1
1.2 Type of the Project 1
1.3 Year of Establishment 1
1.4 Investors 1
1.5 Address 1
1.6 Location 2
1.7 Vision and Mission of the Project 3
1.8 History of the Project Development 3
1.9 Project Cost 3
1.10 Annual Turnover 4
1.11 Certification And Award 4
1.12 Project Layout 5
1.13 Physical Infrastructure 5
1.14 Production Type 6
1.15 Production Capacity 6
1.16 Final Products Name 7
CHAPTER 2
MANPOWER ORGANOGRAM
i
CHAPTER 3
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
CHAPTER 4
RAW MATERIALS
4.1 Raw Material for Knitting 48
4.1.1 Raw Material for Knitting Section 48
4.2 Price of Raw Materials 48
4.2.1 Raw Material for Dyeing 50
4.3 Annual Requirements of Dyes 60
CHAPTER 5
LABORATORY
5.1 Laboratory 61
5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments 61
5.3 Laboratory Equipment‟s 61
5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries Are Used In Laboratory 61
5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries 62
5.6 Selection of Stock Solution for Lab Recipe 62
5.7 Ratio between Salt and Soda According To Shade Percentage 63
5.8 Order Flow Chart of Lab Dip 63
5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure 64
5.10 Flow Chart of Lab Dip Submission 64
5.11 Machine Program for Dyeing Procedure of Different Dyes in Lab 65
5.12 Calculation for Lab Dip Preparation 65
5.13 Color and Chemical Calculation 66
ii
CHAPTER 6
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND SEQUENCE OF
OPERATION
6.1 Names of the Buyers 67
6.2 Buyer‟s Requirements 69
6.3 Production Parameters 70
6.4 Production Flow Charts 71
6.4.1 Batching 71
6.4.2 Dyeing Section 73
6.4.3 Finishing Section 79
6.5 Occurring Faults and Instant Remedy 81
6.5.1 Faults & Remedies of Knitting Section 81
6.5.2 Faults of Dyeing, Their Causes and Remedies 82
6.5.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments Section 84
6.6 Quality Control Unit 84
6.6.1 Objectives of Quality Control 84
6.6.2 Quality Control in Grey Fabric Inspection 85
6.6.3 List of Equipment‟s 85
6.6.4 Name of the Test for Quality Assurance of Grey Fabrics 85
6.6.5 Procedure of GSM Measurement by GSM Cutter 85
6.6.6 Dyeing Quality Control 85
6.6.7 Quality Control of Finishing Section 86
6.6.8 Inspection Checking Points of Finishing 86
6.6.9 Line of Quality Control 87
6.6.10 Measurement of Fabric Width or Dia 87
6.6.11 Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage and Spirality) 88
6.6.12 Rubbing Fastness Test (Dry) Procedure 89
6.6.13 Color Fastness to Washing (ISO105:C06) 89
6.6.14 Quality Assurance Procedure 90
6.6.15 Quality Standard 90
6.6.16 Rejection Criteria for Body & Ribs 91
6.6.17 Rejection Criteria for Collar & Cuff 92
6.6.18 Finished Fabric Inspection 93
6.6.19 Inspection Checking Points 93
iii
CHAPTER 7
GARMENTS MERCHADISING
7.1 Introduction 94
7.2 Definition 95
7.3 Activities of Merchandising 96
7.4 Merchandising Activities on Quality Control 96
7.5 Scope of Marketing Activities of a Merchandiser 97
7.6 Flow Chart of a Merchandising Section 98
7.7 Garments Consumption and Costing 99
7.8 Major Buyer and Product Label 99
7.9 Product Label 100
7.10 Package Size & Label Market 101
7.11 Local Market 101
CHAPTER 8
CONTROL OF KNIT FABRIC PARAMETERS
CHAPTER 9
GARMENTS SECTION
9.1 Introduction 107
9.2 Garments Making Sequence 107
9.3 Production Section 112
9.3.1 Different Sewing Machines SPI Range and Thread Consumption 112
9.3.2 Number of Machines Required as Per Products 112
9.3.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments 112
9.3.4 Total Production in Sewing Section 113
9.3.5 Production Time and Cost 113
9.4 Different Calculation Related to Production Efficiency 113
9.5 Processes Sequence of T-Shirt Making 115
iv
CHAPTER 10
MAINTENANCE
10.1 Objectives of Maintenance 116
10.2 Organogram of Maintenance Section 117
10.3 Maintenance of Machinery 117
10.4 Economic Consideration of Maintenance 118
10.5 Maintenance Flow Chart 118
10.6 Manpower Set-Up for Maintenance 119
10.7 Functions of Maintenance Personnel 119
10.8 Maintenance Tools/Equipment‟s & Their Functions 120
Maintenance Procedure 121
10.10 The Following Tasks are generally done during Maintenance 122
Maintenance Schedule of the Machines 122
CHAPTER 11
UTITLITY SERVICES
11.1 Essential Utility and Source 125
11.2 Functions of Utility 125
11.3 Electricity 126
11.4 Power Consumption of Different Sections 127
11.5 Water 127
11.6 Water Supply Details 128
11.7 Hardness Test Method 128
11.8 Calculation 128
11.9 Steam Supply 128
11.10 Compressed Air Supply 130
11.11 Specification of Compressor 130
11.12 Gas 131
11.13 Cost of Different Utilities 131
CHAPTER 12
STORE & INVENTORY
12.1 Introduction 132
12.2 Objectives of Inventory Control 132
12.3 Scope of Inventory Control 132
12.4 Frequency of Inventory Update 133
12.5 Inventory Procedure 133
12.6 Inventory Control System for Raw Materials 133
v
12.7 Grey fabric store 133
12.8 Stages of Grey Fabric Inventory Control 134
12.9 Inventory Control System for Finished fabric 134
12.10 Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control 135
12.11 Inventory Control System for Spare Parts 135
CHAPTER 13
COST ANALYSIS
13.1 Introduction 136
13.2 Costing Of the Product 136
13.3 Price of the Product 137
13.4 Price Range of Different Products 137
13.5 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics 137
13.6 Dyeing Charge of Different Fabrics 137
13.7 Finishing Charge of Different Fabrics 138
13.8 Costing Of the Product 138
CHAPTER 14
WATER & EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
14.1 Process Sequence of WTP 140
14.2 Determination of Hardness of water 142
14.1.1 Objectives of ETP 143
14.1.2 Requirement of discharge effluent as per World Bank 143
14.1.3 Chemical used 144
14.1.4 Chemical using procedure 144
14.1.5 Product Quality Check 144
14.1.6 Typical Output of the Plant 144
14.1.7 Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment 144
vi
LIST OF TABLE
vii
Table 10.2 Maintenance of Stenter machine 121
Table 11.1 Essential Utility and Source 125
Table 13.1 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics 137
viii
LIST OF FIGURE
ix
Fig 9.1 Garments pattern and component 107
Fig 9.2 Sample of a T-Shirt 108
Fig 9.3 Marker making 109
Fig 9.4 Sewing or assembly 110
Fig 9.5 Garments inspection 111
Fig 9.6 Final inspection 111
Fig 10.1 Organogram of maintenance section 117
Fig 10.2 Maintenance of machinery 117
Fig 14.1 Water Reserve Tank 141
Fig 14.2 Different tanks of WTP process 141
x
ACKWOLADGEMENT
The internship opportunity we had with “Texeurop (BD) Ltd” was a great chance for learning
and professional development. Therefore, we considered our self as a very lucky individual as
we was provided with an opportunity to be a part of it. We are also grateful for having a chance
to get many knowledge about the project during our internship period.
At first we would like to thank our gratitude to Associate professor Dr. Md. Abdus Shahid
Head of the Department of Textile Engineering and also express our deepest thanks to him for
taking part in useful decision & giving necessary advices, guidance and arranged all facilities to
make our internship easier. We choose this moment to acknowledge his contribution gratefully.
We would like to give thanks the Management & Human Resources Department of “The
Texeurop (BD) Ltd.” for giving us the opportunity to make our industrial attachment at the
Texeurop (BD) Ltd.
We are also grateful to Engr. Md. Shahidul Alam Muzumder, General Manager (Dyeing),
Texeurop (BD) ltd.
At last our thanks to the Supervisors, Technicians, Operators & all the other staffs of Texeurop
(BD) Ltd. who are most helpful to us.
xi
CHAPTER 1
PROJECT DESCRIPTION
1.2 Type of the Project : Composite knit fabrics & garments (with dyeing &
finishing) factory. (100% export oriented industry).
1.5 Address:
Fax : +880-2-9261582
E-mail : info@texeuropbangladesh.com
Website : www.texeuropbangladesh.com
1
1.6 Location
Tangail road
Joydevpur
South Vogra Chowrasta
North
Dhaka-Mymensingh Road
Texeurop
(BD) Ltd.
2
1.7 Vision and Mission of the Project:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is a Composite Knit Dyeing Factory that producing &
manufacturing Knitted Fabric and Garments with a mission to be one of the leading
exporters by providing the good quality knitted garments from Bangladesh to various
customers around the globe.
The initial cost of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. establishment is about 400 million Taka. But
the gradual enlargement & enhancement of the mill increasing the project cost. So it
is very difficult to measurement the actual cost of the project.
3
1.10 Annual Turnover:
1. SGS conduct audit on 30.11.2005 for Okaidi and found results are satisfactory.
2. H & M conduct their first audit on 31.07.2006 and found results are
satisfactory. They also had done a follow-up audit on 24.04.2007.
3. Omega Compliance had done an audit on 29.01.2007 for Kwintet AB and
found satisfactory.
4. CSCC had done an audit on 14.03.2007 for MAD Engine Inc. and found
satisfactory.
5. It‟s had done an audit on 15.05.2007 for Cotton Group based on BSCI and
found results are satisfactory.
6. BKMEA had done an audit on 15.07.2007 and found results are satisfactory.
7. CSCC had done an Audit based on buyer‟s code of conduct for Street One on
17.02.2008 and results are satisfactory.
8. BKMEA had done an audit on 05.04.2008 and found results are satisfactory.
9. H&M had conducted their follow up audit on 05.05.2008.
10. TUV SUD had conducted an audit based on buyers COC for MPL. On dated
11. H&M had conducted a Full Audit Program on dated 02.11.2008 and we
achieved “Yellow” Assessment.
12. Intertek had conducted an audit in the Global Security Verification Program.
A comprehensive Supply Chain Security verification to determine the
minimum security measures, as published by the U.S Bureau of Customs and
Border Protection on dated January 04, 2009. and they found that we had
implemented and maintained throughout the facility and scored Green
Certificate.
4
13. WAL-MART had conducted an Ethical Standards audit on dated March 03,
2009 and we received a “Yellow” Assessment certificate.
14. CSCC (A STR Company) had conducted a Social audit on dated March 14,
2009 for Street One, GmbH and results scored “Acceptable”\
15. CSCC (A STR Company) had conducted a Social Audit on dated April 01,
2009 for Redcats Group and we scored rating 98% as “Acceptable” grading.
16. H&M had conducted a follow-up audit on 05.05.2009.
The factory is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the
mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guardrooms & dining
room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick Martials. . The whole area is
surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set up for m/c‟s are built of corrugated iron
& iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation & scope for passing
light & air.
5
Total area of the industry : 12500 sq. Meter
Building : 8 Storied.
a) Knitted grey fabrics : Plain single jersey, Heavy Jersey, Polo Pique, Lacoste, Rib
&Interlock double jersey , Drop needle, 2/3 Thread fleece(Brushed/ Un-brushed),
Collar & cuff etc.
-100%Cotton
-Polyester-Cotton blends.
b) Knit Garments: T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweat shirt, Golf shirt, Cardigan, Jogging suit,
Short/Trouser, Legging, Fashion dress & Children wears etc.
6
1.16 Final Products Name:
Remarks:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Is a Modern textile industry. Every facility of a modern textile
factory exists in this factory. It has a no. of renowned buyers especially at Europe. So
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is getting popular throughout the Textile sectors and its buyers.
This Factory has a good communication system from the capital city Dhaka.
7
CHAPTER 2
MANPOWER MANAGEMENT
Chairman
Managing
Director
GM GM
(Operation) (Dyeing)
AM AGM Manager
(Admin) (Production) (Quality)
8
2.2 Organogram of Production Section:
Director
(Production)
GM GM
(Dyeing) (Operation)
AGM
AGM Manager In charge QC. Officer Lab Officer (Garments)
(Maintenance (dyeing) (Finishing)
)
QC. Asst. Lab Manager
Manager Asst. Manager Supervisor Technician Officer (Cutting)
Maintenance
Operator Supervisor
Supervisor Production Helper Asst. Lab
Officer
Technician
Helper Operator
Asst.
In charge Manager
Supervisor
(sewing)
Supervisor
Operator
In charge
(sewing)
Helper Asst. Supervisor
Line In
Operator charge
Line
Helper Supervisor
Operator
Helper
9
2.3 Different Departments:
a. Knitting section
Knitting
Inspection
b. Dying section
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing Lab
Quality Control
Finishing
c. Garments Section
Merchandising
Sample
d. Maintenance Section
Electrical
Mechanical
e. Store Section
Supporting Departments
a. Personnel Administration
b. HRD
c. Marketing
d. Procurement
e. Finance and accounting
f. Security department
10
2.4 Management Information System (MIS):
There are three shifts of working in the mill .the most of the top level officers do their
job in general shift .But the others have to do their job in alternate shifts. There are
two dyeing managers in dyeing section do day shift. One Asst. dyeing manager do
constant A shift. Three Sr. production officers do alternate shifting duty and four
production officers do alternate shifting duty also.
A Shift : 6.00am-2.00pm
B Shift : 2.00pm-10.00pm
C Shift : 10.00pm-6.00am
G.M
A.G.M
D.M
D.A.M
Sr. P.O
P.O
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
11
2.5 Information Medium:
12
2.9 Responsibilities of Floor In-Charge:
To check Lab recipe and Prepare Production Recipe.
Batch preparation and pH check.
Control of supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing floor.
To match shade as required.
To find out dyeing and fabric fault as early as possible.
Remarks:
Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault
of any machine they fix and work under technical in-charge. Production officers‟
takes account of daily production by running after the two supervisors and workers so
on.
13
CHAPTER 3
MACHINE DISCRIPTION
Introduction:
Texeurop (BD) LTD. is an integrated computerized company. It has total 23 dyeing
machines among of them 13 machines are known as sample dyeing machine on the
basis of their production capacity. The machines are controlled by high skilled
operators. On the other hand Knitting section contains 45 machines, among of them
23 are circular knitting machine, 4 are Auto stripe machines, 5 are flat bed machines
for collar and cuff and another 3 are Twill tape machine.
3.1 Knitting Section:
Process requirements:
In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. three types of machines are used for producing and inspecting
knitted fabrics.
These are:-
4. Store section
14
Table 3.1: Total no of machine at a glance
Single jersey 13
Rib 04
Fleece 06
45
Auto Stripe 04
Flat bed 15
Twill tape 03
JIUNN
01 Taiwan Rib 36 18 2040*2 72
LONG
JIUNN
02 Taiwan Rib 34 18 1920*2 68
LONG
JIUNN
03 Taiwan Rib 34 18 1920*2 68
LONG
JIUNN
04 Taiwan Rib 32 18 1800*2 62
LONG
JIUNN Single
05 - 08 Taiwan 36 24 1740 69
LONG jersey
15
JIUNN Single
09-10 Taiwan 34 24 1812 72
LONG jersey
JIUNN Single
11 Taiwan 24 24/20 1872 75
LONG jersey
JIUNN Single
12 Taiwan 28 24 2112 84
LONG jersey
JIUNN Single
13-15 Taiwan 30 24 2256 90
LONG jersey
Single
16-17 ORIZIO Italy 30 28 1680 72
jersey
GOANG
18-19 Taiwan Fleece 36 20 2256 102
LIH
GOANG
20-21 Taiwan Fleece 34 20 2136 96
LIH
GOANG
22 Taiwan Fleece 30 20 1860 84
LIH
GOANG
23 Taiwan Fleece 30 20 1860 84
LIH
Auto Stripe
Single
24-26 Lisky Taiwan jersey 4 28 24/22 1344 70
color
Single
27 Lisky Taiwan jersey 4 36 24/28 1420 90
color
16
3.1.2. Flat Knitting Section:
Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section
there are 5 flat knitting machines, all of them are same type and also have same
specification. The specification of all machines is given below.
JIUNN
01 -05 Taiwan 68” V-Bed 14 8
LONG
JIUNN
06-15 China 40” V-Bed 14 8
LONG
17
3.2 Dyeing Flore Layout Plan:
5
3 4 5 6 7 9
1 2 8
Exit 38
20
19 14 13 12 11 10
15
17 16
18
28 27 37 21 22 23
24
25
30 26
29
31
35 34 33
32
Exit
North
South
South
18
3.2.1 Layout Indication:
19
3.3 List of Machines:
Turning machine 02
Batching
Overlock machine 03
temperature) Bulk
Electric Pipet 02
Electric Balance 02
Spectrophotometer(Data Color) 01
Computer 01
Lab Printer 01
Washing Machine 01
Tumble Dryer 03
GSM Cutter 03
20
PH Meter 01
Dryer 01
Washing Machine 07
Tumble Dryer 03
Hydro extractor 01
Squeezer 01
Dryer(tube) 01
Tube Compactor 01
Stenter 02
Stenter (Mahlo) 01
Calendar 01
Brushing machine 01
Sueding Machine 01
Country : HONGKONG
21
No. of Nozzle : 1, 1, 1, 1
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :7
No. of Nozzle :1
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :7
No. of Nozzle :1
22
Name : Dyeing Machine
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :6
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :8
Country : HONGKONG
23
Model No. : HSJ-4T
No. of Motor : 13
No. of Nozzle :4
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :6
Country : HONGKONG
24
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :2
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :4
Country : HONGKONG
25
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :4
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor :8
No. of Nozzle :4
Dyeing Machine-15:
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor : 13
No. of Nozzle :4
26
Production Capacity : 600 Kg
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Nozzle : 1, 1, 1, 1, 1
Country : HONGKONG
No. of Motor : 12
No. of Nozzle :8
27
Model : Local.
RPM : 700-746(max).
Extraction % : 60%(approx.)
Capacity : 3000kg
Fig
3.2: Hydro extractor machine
Function:
Main points:
28
04. Squeezer:
Main parts:
Revolving platform.
J-box squeezer.
Detwisting unit.
Capacity : 7000kg
Function:
Main parts:
2. Burner. (3)
3. Blower. (6)
4. Exhaust fan.
29
5. Synthetic blanket.
6. Folding device.
(0C) (%)
(m/min)
30
Over feed speed is maintained as per delivery speed so that it can give the
desired quality.
Temperature control depends on shade condition.
In every chamber fabric width should be same.
Glue is used along the selvedge to prevent curling.
Two set of panders with tank are used to apply chemical finishes & squeezing.
Padder pressure must be controlled carefully.
Controlling points:
Fabric speed.
Fabric width.
Temperature.
Utility used:
Gas.
Electricity.
Steam.
31
For heat-setting overfeed % is kept 20%.
For heat-setting temperature is kept 1800-1850ċ.
Overfeed%: Fabric↑ tension ↓ Shrinkage ↓ GSM ↑
Machine Specification:
Functions:
Main parts:
32
Teflon roller.
Sensor.
Overfeed % : up to 50%.
Steam pressure : 5-6 bar
.
Cooling
Cylinder
Blanket Tension
Roller
Tension
Feeder Damping
Cylinder Swinging Frame
with rollers
Guide Rollers
Cylinder
Blanket
Fig 3.7: Schematic diagram of the compactor machine with the fabric flowing path
07. Tube Compactor:
Functions:
01. Sueding:
33
leather. The hand will depend on the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn
and the intensity with which the fabric is worked.
Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will have a
softer hand. It also known as pitch finish or carbon finish.
Tasks:
Sueding machine:
Machine quantity : 01
Model : 10 GS X 1952
Origin : Italy
Voltage : 400 V
No of Pile : 03
Setting Point :
Tasks:
34
To produce a heavier surface made of fibers.
Machine specification:
Remarks:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has different type of dyeing machines for small to large scale
production. As the quality of the machineries of dyeing, finishing & testing section
are good, so the quality level of the product is also good. The machines are controlled
by skilled and experienced operators. The machines are erected at the dyeing floor at
two rows at a well-planned manner that facilitates loading and unloading of the fabric
on the machines.
Here the machines are categorized by the concerned section. These are section of the
TEXEUROP BD Ltd garments section.
Sample Section
CAD Room:
35
01. Dizit board-copy the hand
marking pattern
02. Printer:
a. consumption(mini print)
b. plotter(big print)
04. Software:
a. Madarite software (for design+parts+grading)
36
SL MACHINE TYPE NO OF DESCRIPTION
NO MACHINE
O1 PAIN MACHINE (LOCK STITCH) 57 1 NEEDLE
02 OVERLOCK MACHINE 27 4 THREAD (2
NEEDLE,2 LOOPER)
03 FLAT LOCK MACHINE 22 3,4,5 THREAD
04 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE
05 BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE
06 BARTACT MACHINE 1 1 NEEDLE
07 SNAP MACHINE 1
08 PREQUITTING MACHINE 2 2/4 NEEDLE
09 RIB CUTTING MACHINE 1
10 FEED OF THE ARM 1
11 KANSAI SPECIAL(CHAIN STITCH) 2 SPECIAL
12 KANSAI SPECIAL(BACK TAP) 1 SPECIAL
13 KANSAI SPECIAL(SMOKE 7 SPECIAL
MACHINE)
=124
Cutting section
1. Cutting m/c
2. Spreading machine
Cutting table
Perforated paper
Marker
Auto sticking m/c
37
Gsm tester
Gsm cutter
Electric balance
Machine specification:
Knife specification:
Machine requirements:
m/c power supply-electric voltage-440v
knife pneumatic supply -6 bar
Straight knife:
No of machine :1
Company : BLUISTER
Knife length : 8‟‟ & 10‟‟
Knife width : 2cm
Knife thickness : 0.1cm
Fig-3.12: straight knife
Cutting height : 4 (standard)
In this machine is movable but fabric is fixed suitable for cutting large garments parts.
Band knife:
No of machine :2
Model : max-700A
Voltage :220V
Knife length : endless
Knife width : 0.5cm
Knife thickness : .02cm
G.W : 295 kg
N.W : 230 kg
Origin : China
In this machine is movable but fabric is
fixed.
Suitable for cutting small garment parts,
round shape etc. Fig-3.13 : Band knife
38
No of motor :2
Sewing section:
39
16 RIB CUTTING MACHINE 31 IDEA,IU-922
Grand
Total=2948
Description:
The machine comes with a thread spreading mechanism and an adjustable needle
guard to prevent stitch skipping. The thread clamp mechanism, tension release
mechanism and needle thread draw-out mechanism enable the machine to leave
thread of a uniform length after thread trimming, and prevent slip-off of the needle
thread. All of these mechanisms contribute to upgraded sewing.
Needle : TV×7
40
LOCK STITCH MACHINE:
Description:
The thread take-up mechanism, feed mechanism, thread paths and hook have been
further improved to enhanced responsiveness to material changes & ensure stitch
quality
Needle : DB×1
The LBH-1790A Series follows the world's highest sewing speed and dry-head
mechanism of its predecessor model. In addition, this machine comes with the latest
model operation panel which is installed with a USB port. Furthermore, all drive
mechanisms have been digitalized to manage each sewing pattern individually.
41
Buttonhole length : 6.4~38.1mm
LK-1903B Series
The machine achieves sewing speed of 2,700sti/min. The machine's starting, stopping,
thread-trimming and automatic presser lifting speeds have been increased to
significantly shorten total cycle time.
42
Applicable button : Shank button, Wrapped-around button, Snap, Label,
Metal button, Stay button
Button size : φ10~28mm
Needle : TQ×1 (#16) #14~20
BARTACKING MACHINE:
LK-1850 series
The machine is provided with a material-drawing mechanism which draws the right
and left parallel portions of an eyelet buttonhole near to one another. The machine
performs bartacking with the right and left parallel portions of the eyelet buttonhole
drawn near to one another after the buttonhole is clamped under the work clamp foot,
thereby finishing highly durable and well-tensed eyelet buttonholes
Needle : DP×5
OVERLOCK MACHINE:
MO-6700 series
Since the machine comes with a needle-thread take-up mechanism as well as a looper
thread take-up mechanism, to offer upgraded responsiveness from light- to heavy-
weight materials with a lower applied tension.
43
Fig 3.19: Overlock Machine
17-18 (4 thread)
21-22 (5 thread)
Uses of Machines:
Over lock m/c : All types of sewing of light and heavy fabric garments for edge
neating and side joining.
Double needle m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light weight fabric garments.
44
Flat lock m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments
specially for hemming and decorative purpose.
Button hole m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments for
button holing.
Button attaching m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments for
button attaching.
Bartack m/c : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments.
Specially in the seam joining area, belt loop trouser.
Chain stitch : All types of sewing of heavy and light fabric garments.
Blind stitch m/c : All types of sewing of light and heavy fabric garments
hemming.
Machine brand:
Sunstar : Korea
Juki : Japan
Pegasus : Japan
Brother : Japan
Puff : Japan
45
Finishing Section:
TOTAL 346
Remarks:
46
CHAPTER 4
RAW MATERIALS
As we know the raw materials for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide
range of count are used for this purpose. In yarn store section we had the chance to
know about different yarns of different count used in Texeurop (BD) Ltd. knitting.
We also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting
section i.e. sources of yarn. . There are different types of yarns are used as raw
materials in this factory. These are:
Cotton 10S ,18 S ,20 S,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S,
38s,40S
Price of yarn varies mill to mill and as different count. Here, we collect a price sheet
of overall price for all the spinning mills of home and abroad of different count from
merchandizing section:
47
PRICE AND SOURCE OF RAW MATERIALS:
48
Combed
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is a knit composite textile industry. In this industry the raw
materials used for production of colored or white finished fabrics which are ready for
the preparation of garments are:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.
49
Grey Fabric Source:
Dyeing department of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. receive grey fabric from knitting
department of this company. According to buyer order, store officer receive the grey
fabric and he maintains the delivery of finished fabric.
1. Grey Fabric:
According to Fibers:
100 % Cotton fabric
CVC fabric
PC fabric
Lycra twill fabric
Grey mélange.
Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Single & double lacoste
Fleece
Interlock & its derivatives
Interlock with lycra
Rib & its derivatives (1Χ1 Rib, 2Χ2 Rib)
Rib with lycra
Different types of collar & cuff
Piping, Twill tape & other decorative accessories.
50
2. Chemicals:
1. Sandofix EC
Washing Agent
1. Hydrose
Levelling Agent
1. H2O2
Sequestering Agent
1. Invatex CS Enzyme
1. Bioace
1. Gluber Salt
Stabilizer
2. Common Salt
1. Tinoclarite CBB
Whitening Agent
Anticreasing Agent
1. Uvitex BAM
1. Cibafuid C
2. Uvitex BHV
PH Controller
3. Hostalux ETBN (For polyester
1. Acid
fabric)
2. Neutracid RBT (Non volatile)
4. Bluton BBV
3. Soda Ash
Softener
4. Caustic
1. Alkamine CWS
Per-oxide Killer
2. Sapamine FPG
51
1. Invatex PC
No Tk/Kg
52
TIC L
Ve Dis TIC L
53
21 Acetic Acid Jubilent India Acid 102.20
Dyes:
Following are the dyes that are used for the coloration of the Scoured & Bleached
Fabric. The Dyes are listed below:
54
4 Remazol Blue Dystar Singapore Reactive 829
RR
55
18 Drimarine Clariant Switzerland Reactive 2500
Yellow CL2R
56
Navy DB Intermediates Ltd
57
47 Disperse Black Meghmani Dyes And India Disperse 374.13
EXNSF Intermediates Ltd
58
4.3 Annual Requirements of Dyes:
The annual requirement of Dyestuffs, Chemicals & Auxiliaries was not determined as
necessity of these are assessed by volume of production. Annual requirement of dyes
& chemical depend on the order of production. But for various reasons such as
improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes, uneven process
control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities& for
different unwanted expenditure, extra dye consumption increased dye & chemical
requirement.
Remarks:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Fabrics Ltd is very careful & conscious about its raw materials.
The raw materials are always collected from those suppliers who supply the dyes &
chemicals of higher quality. The best Quality Raw Materials are selected to ensure
and satisfy the Buyers requirements.
59
CHAPTER 5
LABORATORY
5.1 Laboratory:
In an organization, especially in a textile industry Lab is the main key point, with a
higher precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before the
bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is prepared and sent to the
buyer, as per the requirements that the buyer mentioned. The lab dip is prepared in a
lab considering the economical aspects.
5.2 List of Laboratory Instruments:
● Lab dip machine ● Electric balance
● Crock meter ● Spectrophotometer
● Light box ● Stirrer
● Dryer ● pH meter
● Electronic pipette
5.3 Laboratory Equipment’s:
● Dryer ● Iron ● Computer
● Balance ● Scissors ● Light box
● Calculator ● Stirrer ● conical flax
● Beaker ● Manual pipette ● cylindrical flax
5.4 Chemicals and Auxiliaries are used in Laboratory:
● Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) ● Acetic acid (CH3COOH)
● Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4) ● Caustic soda (NaOH)
● Detergent (Sand clean/Imerol PCLF) ● Soda Ash (Na2CO3)
● Hydrous (Na2S2O4) ● Gluber salt (Na2SO4.10H2O)
● Dispersing agent (Jinlev –RLF) ● Leveling Agent (Ionactive PP 105)
60
5.5 Specification of Lab Dip Machineries:
Table5.1: Specification of lab dip machine
Sl. Name of Brand Manufacturer Supplier Origin
No. Machine
1 LAB DIP- F&P Heshan Project Manufacturer China
1,3,4,5 Dyeing Equipment
Capacity-24 Ltd.
pots (250ml)
2 LAB DIP-2 Labortex Centrary Faith Manufacturer Taiwa
Capacity-24 Industrial Ltd. n
pots(250ml)
3 ELECTRIC Adventurer Ahaus corporation SMH Engg. USA
BALANCE Balance &Trading Co.
4 CROCK Crock James H heal & TH UK
METER Meter-67 Co. Corporation
5 SPECTROPHO Specta flash Data Color Data color USA
TOMER sf-600x
6 LIGHT BOX VERIVIDE Roaches PENDORA UK
International Ltd.
7 DRYER Labtech Daiham Labtech TH Korea
Co. Corporation
8 pH METER Microproces HANNA TH Italy
sor Bench Instruments Corporation
pH meter
61
5.7 Ratio between Salt and Soda According to Shade Percentage:
M: L = 1:10; Salt solution = 25%; Soda ash = 10%
Table 5.3: Ratio between salt and soda according to shade percentage
Shade% Salt (g/l) Soda (g/l)
0.00-0.09 10 2
0.10-0.20 15 3
0.20-0.40 20 4
0.40-0.80 25 5
0.80-1.20 30 6
1.20-1.60 40 10
1.60-2.50 50 12
2.50-3.50 60 15
3.50-4.50 70 17
4.50-5.50 78 18
5.50-10 80 20
10-16 100 25
62
5.9 Lab Dip Making Procedure:
63
5.11 Machine Program for Dyeing Procedure of Different Dyes in
Lab:
Table 5.4: Machine programs for different dyeing procedure
Dyes M/C Program Process Temp (°C) Time(min.)
Reactive F1 L0 Migration 50 40
F1 L1 Dyeing 65 60
F1 L2 Cooling 50 10
Drimarine F2 L0 Migration 60 40
F2 L1 Dyeing 60 60
F2 L2 Cooling 50 10
Turquoise F3 L0 Migration 50 40
F3 L1 Dyeing 70 60
F3 L2 Cooling 50 10
Disperse F4 L0 Dyeing 130 40
F4 L1 Cooling 50 10
Disperse F5 L0 Dyeing 100 40
( with F5 L1 Cooling 50 10
carrier)
Black F6 L0 Migration 50 60
F6 L1 Dyeing 65 60
F6 L2 Cooling 50 10
Fastness F7 L0 Wash 60 40
64
5.13 Color and Chemical Calculation:
Solution
We know,
65
CHAPTER 6
Customer Buyer
S. Oliver
Mustang
C&A, H&M
Lerros
Street One
1. Texeurop
Poly Concept
American Eagle
Tom Tailor
HAV
Zero
TAO
Brice
2. Pantex
Camiu
Cecil
MED
Price
66
Part two, Texman,
Dristicentr
Multiline
Fareast
Li & Fung
4. Dip Knitwear
Fiat Fashion
Indeshore
Well Lord
Mim
5. Z-3 composite
Wal-Mart
Prim ark
6. Aswad Composite
Mim
Hawks Head
BHS
7. M.M Composite
France Telecom
Orange Telecom
H&M
8. Mymun/DBL
Wal-Mart
67
CDF
Midline Fashion
Arina
PH-40/09
Centrotex, LPP
13. Matrix
Losan
68
6.3 Production Parameters :
Migration
● For light color : 30 minutes
● For dip color : 40 minutes
Water level: High level of water hydrolyzes more dyes and causes light shade.
Wash: After dyeing incorrect wash caused light or dip shade. So proper wash must
be done.
69
6.4 Production Flow Charts:
Lab dip approved
↓
Grey fabric inspection
↓
Batching
↓
Scouring & Bleaching
↓
Enzyming ( If required Or buyer requirements )
↓
Dyeing
↓
Bath Drain
↓
Cold Wash
↓
Neutral With Acetic Acid
↓
Soaping
↓
Fixing (If required )
↓
Softening
6.4. 1 Batching :
Batching preparation is the process where inspected grey fabrics are divided into
different batches with reasonable quantity according to machine capacity, nozzle
number in order to make them suitable for the further operation In batching. It must
be carefully observed that each Nozzle of a machine contains equal length of fabric.
After batching some fabrics are tuned to backside to minimize the risk of faulty
dyeing.
70
Following are the fabrics those are tuned back by turning machine:
Single Jersey
Lacoste (Single & Double jersey)
Fleece(if asked)
Sequence of Batching:
Turning m/c
Plaiting m/c
Weighting m/c
Back sewing m/c
Overlock m/c
Information checked:
Order No
Color
Yarn Count
Yarn lot
Yarn brand
Knitting factory
Machine No
Roll No
71
6.4.2 Dyeing Section:
72
↓
Rinse for 10‟
↓
Drain & fill
↓
Acid Room temperature for 20 „
↓
Drain & fill
↓
Hot wash 900c for 10‟ Running sample cut
↓
If OK then drain fastness check & fill
↓
Rinse for 10‟
↓
Drain & fill
↓
Softener
80°C×60‟
650C ×30‟
550C ×60‟
60°C×5‟
90 °C×10‟
90 °C×10‟
90 °C×10‟
Hot wash
Hot wash
Hot wash
40°C
60; Scouring
& Bleaching
60 °C×15‟
Rinse 10‟
Acid 20‟
Rinse 10‟
Enzyme inject
Acid
Softener
& salt inject
PH Check
dosing
5-10
Finwet OSR
Arboquest 340
Prostab S-205
73
↓
Sequestering agent & stabilizer is added also.
↓
Caustic Dosing for 5‟
↓
H202 dosing for 5‟
↓
OBA Dosing 10‟
↓
Temperature raise at 950c & Runtime 60‟
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
Hot wash 900c 10‟
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
Acid 600C×15‟
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
PH Check
↓
Enzyme Inject at 550c Temperature
↓
Runtime 550C×60‟
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
Rinse
↓
Softener
74
80°C×60‟
550C ×60‟
60°C×5‟
90 °C×10‟
Hot wash
40°C
60; Scouring
& Bleaching
60 °C×15‟
Rinse 10‟
Enzyme inject
Acid
Softener
& salt inject
PH Check
dosing
5-10
Finwet OSR
Arboquest 340
Prostab S-205
Fig 6.2: Processing curve for white Color
75
Drain & Fill
↓
Acid 600C×15‟
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
PH Check
↓
Enzyme Inject at 550c Temperature × 60‟
↓
Temp Raise at 700C × 10‟
Drain & Fill
Temp Raise at 800C
↓
PH Check
Color dosing for 300c at 800c
↓
Salt inject 15‟
↓
Runtime 15‟
↓
Soda Dosing for 30‟at 500c
↓
Dyeing sample cut at 800c
↓
Bath drop and drop sample cut then fill
↓
Rinse for 10‟
↓
Drain & fill
↓
Acid Room temperature for 20 „
↓
Drain & fill
76
↓
Hot wash 900c for 10‟ Running sample cut
↓
If OK then drain fastness check & fill
↓
Rinse for 10‟
↓
Drain & fill
↓
Softener
80°C×60‟
700C ×10‟
800C×30‟
800C
550C ×60‟
60°C×5‟
90 °C×10‟
90 °C×10‟
90 °C×10‟
Hot wash
Hot wash
Hot wash
40°C
500C
60; Scouring
& Bleaching
60 °C×15‟
Fabric loading &
NaOH , H2O2
Rinse 10‟
Acid 20‟
Rinse 10‟
& salt 15‟
Enzyme inject
Color 30‟
Acid
Softener
Soda 30‟
PH Check
dosing
5-10
Finwet OSR
Arboquest 340 Fig 6.3: Processing curve for Turquois Color
Prostab S-205
Weight of fabric = 960 kg, Dia (tube) = 36, inch GSM = 140, No. of Nozzles = 4
77
Dwell time =
= 3.10 min
Introduction:
Chemical and
Mechanical.
In chemical finishing, water is used as the medium for applying the chemicals. Heat is
used to drive off the water and to activate the chemicals. Mechanical finishing is
considered a dry operation even though moisture and chemicals are often needed to
successfully process the fabric.
78
Flow Chart of the Finishing Process:
Dyed Fabric
Slitting Squeezering
Stentering Drying
Compacting Compacting
Packing Packing
Loop Thick, thin and dust in yarn.It is By using regular and clean
seen along wales line. yarn.
79
problem of Needle. & using defect free needle.
Patta Due to thick-thin, count& lot By using defect free & same
variation of yarn. count yarn.
a) Uneven shade
Causes:
80
Uneven scouring.
Improper dosing of salt, soda & dyes.
Variation of dwell time for different nozzle.
Remedies:
Properly scouring.
By washing (hot wash, soda wash).
By stripping with hydrose.
b) Running shade
Causes:
Remedies:
c) Shrinkage
Causes:
Loop deformation.
Elasticity of fiber.
Tension during dyeing.
High dwell time.
Remedies:
By compacting.
d) Spirality or Twisting
Causes:
Remedies:
81
Proper tension during dyeing.
e) Hairiness
Causes:
Remedies:
By using high quality enzyme & proper killing of enzyme processing time.
By using anticreasing agent which act as a lubricating agent, so that abrasion
f) Crease mark
Causes:
Fabric becomes rope form which is the main reason of crease mark during
dyeing.
Friction of fabric with dyeing machine & fiber to fiber friction.
Sometime crease mark is occurred due to improper fabrics feeding.
Remedies:
By using anti-creasing agent which reduce fabric to machine & fibre to fibre
friction.
Squeezing should maintain properly.
g) Softener spot
Causes:
Remedies:
82
6.5.3 Different Defects of Knitted Garments Section:
83
6.6.4 Name of the Test for Quality Assurance of Grey Fabrics:
Suppose ,
The weight of the fabric is 2.10 gm. That means the G.S.M of the fabric is 210 gm.
Shade check : The shade is checked several times during process as well as after
finishing the process to ensure buyers demand under recommended light source.
Generally the shade is checked at the following stage:
Flow chart of the quality control department unload fabrics from dyeing m/c.
Check color fastness and hand feel, fabrics surface (quality of dying) and reporting
After dyeing and stenter check hand feel, shrinkage & online fabrics inspection
and also on table 30% fabric inspection & keep record. (Inspection point are
mentioned on QC table).
After compacting fabric check by 4 point system at least 40% of the total batch &
keep record. Check GSM Rib body match, shrinkage & keep record.
84
6.6.8 Inspection Checking Points of Finishing:
Online Quality Control: The qualities which are checked during running the process
and take instant action to control required quality is called online quality control.
Online quality control includes,
85
6.6.10 Measurement of Fabric Width or Dia:
After finishing the fabric diameter or width is measured by a measuring tape. If the
width is more or less compactor is used to set the required width. If width is more
then lengthwise tension is increased and if width is less it is increased by shape. This
is the online width measurement. Offline measurement of fabric width should be
made in a standard testing atmosphere whenever possible.
At first fabric is relaxed from dryer or stenter (Lycra/PK fabrics 2 hour & normal
fabrics 40 minutes).
Measure the sample size (50 cm × 50 cm, 35 cm × 35 cm, 10 cm × 10 cm).
Sewing the sample three sides by over lock sewing machine and one side open.
Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer‟s choice.
(Standard recipe: detergent 2 g/l for 45 min at 450C).
Then drying the sample by tumble dryer.
Relax the fabric for 30 min.
Measure the sample after wash.
Shrinkage % = ×100
Where, S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
L = Length before wash.
86
6.6.12 Rubbing Fastness Test (Dry) Procedure:
Croking finger move on the testing sample 10second or 10 cycle and wt. use 9N.
Procedure
87
Table 6.4: Run the program in the following way
3 C 600C 50 ml 30 25 10.5±01
88
Table 6.5: Four point grading system
Size of defects Penalty
3 inches or less 1 point
Over 3 inch but not 2 point
over 6 inch
Over 6 inch but not 3 point
over 9 inch
Over 9 inch 4 point
Hole <1 inch 2 points
Hole >1 inch 4 points
The following formula is used for determining points/100 sq. yds. in a roll of a
fabric:-
Points/100 sq. yds. = (0.08*Roll points*A.GSM) / Roll wt. in Kg
Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection
section at Texeurop (BD) Ltd.:
89
5. Slubs 1 point
6. Thick thin place Reject
7. Pin holes 1 point
8. Wrong design Reject
9. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager
10. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected.
11. Missing yarn Use 4 point
12. Holes Do
13. Oil line/stain Do
14. Chemical Do
15 Dirt stain Do
16. Crease line Do
17. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspection
section at Texeurop (BD) Ltd.:-
6.6.17 Rejection Criteria for Collar & Cuff:
90
6.6.18 Finished Fabric Inspection:
4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection. Defects found in
the final inspection:
1. Uneven shade
2. Oil spot
3. Neps
4. Crease mark
5. Machine Stoppage mark
6. Listing
7. Line mark
8. Pick missing
9. Double yarn
10. Dead cotton
11. Bowing
12. Fly yarn contamination
6.6.19 Inspection Checking Points:
1. Enzyme quality.
2. Hand feel on fabric surface
3. Uneven on fabric surface
4. Running shade on fold to fold.
5. Color spot on fabric surface
6. Softener spot on fabric surface
7. Oil spot on fabric surface.
8. Bowing line
9. Bias on Grid line
10. Line mark on fabric surface
11. Dia variation in one roll fabric surface
12. GSM of fabric against required GSM
13. Needle mark or slit mark
14. Pin mark on fabric surface
15. Sinker mark
16. Crease mark
17. Dia mark
18. Neps, contamination, thick & thin place.
91
19. Pattern problem
20. Stripe bowing
21. Fabric elasticity
22. Fabric strength
23. 2Brush quality
24. Suided/piece finish quality
25. Color fastness to wash and water
26. Rubbing fastness to dry and wet
27. Shrinkage and Spirality.
Remarks:
In this modern world the buyer requirement is increasing day by day. And they are
conscious about quality of product. In order to fulfil this requirements QC department
need to do a number of task. QC also check the following fault- hole, fly yarn, dye
stain, chemical stain, uneven shade , meter to meter variation, compactor crease,
patchy dyeing, yarn contamination, sinker mark, dyeing crease etc.
92
CHAPTER 7
GARMENTS MERCHANDISING
7.1 Introduction:
Garment merchandising attempts to the structural changes in the textile industry,
focusing on the export of textile and garments. Garment merchandising is a
complicated and detail oriented job. If this task can be performed successfully &
properly then it will bring both money and reputation for the industry. But when
a merchandising department of an industry fails it will be a great threat for the
existence of industry. For this reason the merchandiser of textile industry must be
highly qualified, well trained and experienced. The textile industry employs several
mode of production. Apparel merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell
products to consumers.
7.2 Definition:
Generally, Merchandising is planning, developing and presenting product lines for
identified target markets, with regard to pricing, assortment, styling and timing.
Merchandising is the central co-ordinating point for the product line.
The responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to them are:
a) Sampling,
b) Lab dips,
c) Accessories & trims,
d) Preparing internal order sheets,
e) Preparing purchase orders,
f) Advising and assisting production,
g) Advising quality department about quality level,
h) Mediating production and quality departments,
i) Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
j) Helping documentation department,
k) Taking responsibility for inspections and
l) Following shipment
m) Internal & external communication,
93
7.3 Activities of Merchandising:
94
Decision making: For a Merchandiser, decision making power is most
important. He should think about the decision to be taken and to act in a right
way.
Loyalty: Loyalty is an essential character of human beings. Especially for the
business people like merchandiser it is a must.
Knowledge about the field: Merchandiser should have adequate knowledge
about the garments, Computer knowledge, and technical knowledge to
communicate with different people in the business is a must.
Co-ordinate and Co-operate: Merchandiser is the person who is actually
Co-ordinate with the number of departments. To Co-ordinate with different
people in the industry he should be co- operative.
Monitoring ability: Merchandiser should monitor to expedite the orders.
Other qualities: Education, Experience, Situational Management, Ability to
Evaluate, Dedication, knowledge of expediting procedures.
7.5 Scope of Marketing Activities of a Merchandiser:
Marketing activities is mainly controlled and performed by the merchandiser. The
activities of merchandising are as follows:
Initial inquiry.
Initial research & development.
Costing.
Cost sheet approval.
Order booking status management.
Sampling process.
Information handling & forwarding.
7.6 Flow Chart of a Merchandising Section:
Pre-meeting between buyer & Supplier
Receiving Specification sheet
Developing offer sample
Sending offer sample & getting approval
Order confirmed & P.O sheet received
Fit sample sending
95
Fit sample approval
Lab dip arrangement
Lab dip approval
Sending fabric & garments for testing attest center
Making SCOTA & sending for approval
After approval of SCOTA conducting PP meeting
Doing size set
In line Inspection
Booking for inspection at myshipment.com
If fail then booking for third party inspection
If pass, then sending goods at CTG port for dispatch
Fabric consumption =
2. Formula in Inch:
Fabric consumption =
In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. They just use the “Formula in Inch” for T-shirt.
Fabric consumption for the Body Parts:
Here, we will apply the following formula (Per dozen),
(Yds.)
96
7.8 Major Buyer and Product Label:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Is a 100% Export oriented industry no product can be marketed
at the Local market. The goods produced at this factory are exported at different
countries of the world. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has a number of renowned buyers.
Following are the important buyers of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.
Tom-Tailor
American Eagle
J.C. Penny
Lerros
Street One
Innovation Club
Gerry Weber
TK International
Primark
Walmart
MMC
Following are the different local Buyer whose provide Sub-contracts for
Texeurop (BD) Ltd.
Teba Group
Pantex and Scarlet (Garments industry of Texeurop (BD) Ltd.)
Epic Group
Islam Group
Hi-Fashion
Matrix
Needle touch
Brine Knit
Dip Knit
97
3) Composition Label: It contains the fabric composition of different fibre type.
4) Decorative Label: Decoration is as buyer or consumer choice wise.
98
CHEPTER 8
CONTROL OF KNIT FABRIC PARAMETERS
8.1 Preparing Comparative Table for Different Required and Performed Data on Dia, GSM, Shrinkage & Spirality.
Sl No Buyer Order color Yarn Com Knitting S.L Req. Afte Req. After Shrinkage % Compac Spirali Ope
Name no. Count b/ Dia/G Dia r G.S.M G.S. tion % ty % n/Tu
Card Dia M be
L W
01 Scarlet 39795 Cream 24 Card 30/24 2.7 75 75 180 165 -5.0 -4.0 15 1 Ope
n
02 Hi 39692 black 26 Com 30/24 2.9 32 32.7 160 157 0 -5.0 10 1 Tube
Fashion b
03 Pantex 39593 Red bud 22 Card 28/24 2.7 60 59 190 194 -5.0 -2.0 20 0 Ope
n
04 Pantex 39749 Grish 22 Card 25/24 2.7 25 25.5 190 192 -2.0 -5.0 10 1 Tube
chin
05 Brine 39797 black 70 71 120 121 -4.0 -10.0 10 5 Ope
Knit n
06 Mondol 533165 orange 72 72.5 150 151 -7.0 -5.0 5 4 „‟
07 Needlto Willso Yellow 38 38.5 180 175 -5.0 -2.0 - 1 Tube
uch m
99
Table 8.2: For lycra-single jersey fabric
TEXEUROP (BD) LTD
LYCRA-SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC
SL. No Buyer Order Color Yarn Comb/ Knittin S.L Req. Afte Req. After Shrinkage % Spiralit Compac Open/
Name no. Cou-nt Card g Dia r Dia G.S.M G.S. y% tion % Tube
Dia×G M
L W
1 Pantex 39765 Grish 34 Card 34×24 3 73 74 190 189 -4.0 -8.0 2 15 Open
chin
2 Teba 39775 4016 40 „‟ 30×24 3.1 69 69.2 160 160 -5.6 -5.2 2 10 „‟
3 Grey 39822 334 34 „‟ 30×24 2.95 62 60.5 190 177 -3.5 -6.0 2 3 „‟
Weaber
4 Sea Tex 39798 Mid 32 „‟ 30×24 2.85 60 63 220 247 -5.5 --8.0 4.5 15 „‟
.night
5 ” 39788 Mid „‟ 32×18 68 68.5 220 252 -5.0 -12.5 2 14 „‟
night
6 FRC 39762 Grey 30 „‟ 30×24 3 154cm 158 210 205 -6.0 -5.0 1.5 14 „‟
Mellan cm
ge
7 Walmart 39765 White 34 „‟ 32×24 68 68 190 192 -5.5 -3.5 3 12 „‟
100
Table 8.3: For Lycra pique
TEXEUROP (BD) LTD
FABRIC: L PIQUE
Shrinkage
Yarn Knittin Req % Spira Ope
Buyer Order COLOU Comb/ S.L Afte Req. After Compecti
SL. No Name
Cou- g . lity( n/T
no. R Card (mm) r Dia G.S.M G.S.M on (%)
nt Dia*G Dia %) ube
L W
1 Pantex 39744 Violet 36 Comb 34*18 2.7 84 83.5 210 197 -12.0 -3 10 2 Open
2 Pantex 39744 Violet 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60.5 220 222 -3.66 -9.66 10 0.2 Open
71332
3 H&M 27980 42 Comb 36*18 2.65 56 56 220 119 -4.0 -6.0 5 3 Open
1
71333
4 H&M 87764 42 Comb 34*18 2.65 56 57 200 180 -10.16 -5.33 5 0.5 Open
1
71332
5 H&M 87810 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60 58 220 235 -6.83 -10.6 10 0.0 Open
0
71335
6 H&M 28062 36 Comb 34*18 2.7 57 58 220 203 -7.66 -5.16 5 2.5 Open
1
71323
7 H&M 87815 36 Comb 36*18 2.65 60 60.5 220 114 -1.5 -7.5 4 3 Open
0
101
Table 8.4: For (1×1) rib
TEXEUROP (BD) LTD
FABRIC: (1×1) Rib
SL. Buyer Order Color Yarn Comb/ Knitting S.L Req. Dia After Dia Req. After Shrinkage Spiral Compa Open/
No Name no. Coun Card Dia×G (mm) (Inch) (Inch) G.S. G.S. % ity ction Tube
t M M (%) (%)
L W
1 Pantex 39757 L.laven 26 Card 34×18 2.72 70 70.5 220 202 -6.5 -8.0 1 10 Open
der
2 “ 39757 “ 26 „‟ 34×18 2.72 70 70 220 204 -7.5 -11 1 12 „‟
3 “ 39778 White 24 „‟ 32×18 2.75 67.0 67.2 220 210 -6.5 - 1 14 „‟
10.5
4 V.baudet 39802 Stripe 30 „‟ 34×18 2.72 68 70 180 178 -6..89 - 2 5 „‟
6.81
5 Teba 39790 3010 30 „‟ 36×18 2.7 72 72 180 182 -8.0 -8.0 1 10 „‟
6 Lerros sample Red+ 60 61 160 153 -7.0 -5.0 2 12 „‟
Navy
7 Teba sample stripe 30 „‟ 32×18 2.75 68 66.5 180 212 -1.0 -7.0 1 15 „‟
102
8.2 Relation Between Finished G.S.M. and Yarn Count of Various
Fabrics
Table 8.5: Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of s/j and rib fabric
Single Jersey Rib
Table8.6: Relation between finished G.S.M. and yarn count of knitted fabrics
Lycra S/J
Interlock
Table8.7: Relation between G.S.M. and yarn count of fleece fabric and double lacoste
Fleece Fabric (100% Cotton) Double Lacoste
Yarn count G.S.M. Yarn count G.S.M.
34s+34 s+10 s 260-270 22 s 240-260
30 s +34 s+10 s 280-290 24s 220-240
28 s+30 s+10 s 290-300 26 s 200-220
26 s+30 s+10 s 310-320 28 s 180-200
24 s +30 s+10 s 340-350 30 s 160-180
103
CHAPTER 9
GARMENTS SECTION
9.1 Introduction:
Bangladesh is a developing country and her development mostly depends on earnings
of foreign currency & other industries. Among the industries, garments industries
plays a vital role to earn foreign currency about 85% compared to other industry or
products. Most of the garments are export oriented and export their RMG (T-shirt,
Polo shirt, Hood jacket, Denim, Trouser, various types of dresses & wearing etc.)
products. But in present situation, large number of countries are competitors of
Bangladesh, for example; China, India, Pakistan, Srilanka etc. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is
also an export oriented, compliance and first category composite factory that exports
various type of knitted garments to USA, Canada, Germany and European countries.
9.2 Garments Making Sequence:
Pattern Design:
The pattern maker now develop first pattern for the designing any one standard size.
This is made by pattern drafting method to make the sample garment for test fit.
104
After the sample garment is stitched it is reviewed by a panel of designers, pattern
makers and sewing specialists. Here the necessary changes are done.
105
much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore
careful execution is important in this step.
Computer marking is done on specialized software. In computerized marking there is
no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical
calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.
Fabric Spreading:
Fabric is spreaded either manually/ with the help of a spreading machine. Lay after
lay are spreaded for cutting. For stripe/check fabric cutting extra care is taken to
match the check.
Fabric Cutting:
Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for
making garments. Fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable
for the type of the cloth. Straight knife is used to cut off the cloths according to the
marker.
Sorting or Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them.
This step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns
can create severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style size
and the marker too is attached with it.
Sewing or Assembling:
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment
manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to
other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality
106
control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye
on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process.
There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In
this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One
operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet
another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various
industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make.
These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work
sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang
machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a
single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that
station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are
assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.
107
Pressing or Finishing:
The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to
change the finished surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain
other combination. Pressing, pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes.
Creasing is mostly done before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff.
Creasing is also done before decorating the garment with something like a pocket,
appliqués, embroidered emblems etc.
Final Inspection:
108
Machine type SPI No of thread Thread consumption
109
9.4 Different Calculation Related to Production Efficiency:
a) Factory efficiency % = 100
= ×100
= 100 %
d) Style change over time = 5-6 hours for trouser
= 3-3.5 hours for T-shirt
= 3-4 hours for hood jacket
= 100
= 93%
= 100 = 5%
110
= 2-3.3 hrs
i) Absenteeism = 2%
j) Labor turnover
= total no of employees that have left the company during the week / total no. of
employees beginning of week%
= × 100
= 2.857%
9.5 Processes Sequence of T-Shirt Making:
Table 9.3: Processes sequence of t-shirt making
Sl. Process Machine No. of No. of Production
No. Type Needle Thread /hour
1 Shoulder tape join Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs
2 Neck join with rib Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs
3 Rib cut Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
4 Neck closing Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs
5 Back tape piping Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs
6 Can tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
7 Front neck top sin Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs
8 Back neck top sin Flat lock 1 2 100-120 Pcs
9 Size label Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
10 Shoulder scissoring Scissor 100-120 Pcs
11 Sleeve tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
12 Sleeve join Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs
13 Side seam Over lock 2 4 100-120 Pcs
14 Sleeve tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
15 Hem tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
16 Bottom hem Flat lock 3 6 100-120 Pcs
17 Sleeve hem Flat lock 3 6 100-120 Pcs
18 Security tuck Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
19 Care label joining Plain m/c 1 2 100-120 Pcs
111
CHAPTER 10
MAINTENANCE
112
10.2 Organogram of Maintenance Section:
Asst. General Manager
Asst. Engineer
Preventive maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time
inspection/checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production
break downs or harmful description.
113
Break down maintenance:
In this case repairs are made after the equipment is out of order & it cannot perform
its normal functions.
Routine maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance
department. Normally in case of dyeing machine Maintenance after 30 days complete
checking of different important parts are done.
10.4 Economic Consideration of Maintenance:
It is very profitable activity & ensures maximum productivity at minimum
costing.
It improves product quality.
It ensures less time to produce a specific product.
It improves machine accuracy.
It maintains a long life of the machine.
114
Inspections of important machines: Machines, which can disrupt whole of
the production, are delicate and require much time for the repair. Attentions
are given for inspection of these machines and schedule for inspection,
cleaning lubrication are done rigidly.
Inspections of ordinary machines: Frequency of inspection of ordinary
machines is kept as low as they do not affect the production.
115
Storage of Spare Parts: Sometimes machine remains idle for want of spare parts
for considerable time and thus it affects considerable loss of production. Hence it is
essential to keep the spare parts so as to avoid loss of production.
10.8 Maintenance Tools/Equipment’s & Their Functions:
Table 10.1: Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions
Maintenance tools/equipment’s Functions
Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts
Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting
Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting
Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt fitting
Hammer To apply load where required
Screw driver To release any screw
Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft
Lock Opener To open the clip of bearing
Hack saw To cut any metallic thing
Outside calipers To measure outside dia
Inside calipers To measure inside dia
Slide calipers To measure very small dia
Vernier scale To measure very small dia
Chain ton To lift heavy load
116
7. Check and tightening the photo sensor terminals.
8. check and tightening the safety light barrier and tightening the terminals.
9. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel.
10. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and the emergency switch.
117
Burner clean
Feed tank clean
Chemical tank clean
Economizer clean
Replace gasket
Replace valve
Check gas line & filter & pressure
Yearly:
overhauling of boiler
Chemical cleaning of boiler
Safety valve test
Economizer clean
Feed tank clean
Chemical tank clean
Burner clean
Check safety valve setting
Replace valve & gasket
Boiler inspection by authority & gasket
Boiler inspection by authority
Dyeing machine maintenance Schedule
Daily:
Check belt tension
Check steam or water system & air supply
Check chemical pump
Machine clean
Weekly:
Bearing & belt check
Check leakage of air, steam &
Water line
Greasing bearing points
Add gland packing at pump
118
Monthly:
Greasing bearing points
Replace bearing points (if required)
Gasket check
Clean steam trap
Lubricating all chemical pump
Quarterly:
Replace belts
Repairing of pulley, shaft & bearing housing
Painting m/c & pipe line
Clean steam trap
Replace seals (if leakage)
Change gasket of steam of water lines
Half yearly:
Replace belts
Repairing pulley, shaft & bearing housing
Painting m/c, pipe line
Replace seals
Machine body repairing
Yearly:
Machine overhauling
Remarks:
The maintenance department of Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is well equipped. It has sufficient
maintenance manpower including mechanical and electrical engineers. They do the
maintenance of them machine during the Eid vacation. Otherwise, they do the
breakdown maintenance. To increase the lifetime of the machineries and ensure the
proper running of the machinery.
119
CHAPTER 11
UTITLITY SERVICES
Production and profit are closely related. In order to get quality final product it needs
fresh raw materials as well as effective manpower and machinery in good condition.
Utility in conjugation with the three M‟s plays an important role to maximize the
production as well as the profit.
11.1 Essential Utility and Source:
Table 11.1: Essential Utility and Source
Utility Source
Electricity Generator
Gas TITAS
Compressed air Compressor
Steam Boiler
Water Natural Water by pump
Temp.Control AC
11.3 Electricity
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has two generators for power supply to ensure continuous dyeing
& knitting operation and help to fulfill their target production in garments. Gas
generator is widely used because of lower production cost.
Specification of generator:
Generator-1:
120
Type : Gas Generator
Manufacturer : Bangla cat
Manufactured Country : USA
Year of Construction : 2005
Rated Power : Prime
Capacity : 1030 KW
Efficiency : 90%
Voltage : 440
Frequency (Hz) : 50 Hz
Rotating Speed (RPM) : 1500
No of pump : 2
Gas pressure : 14 psi (9 psi minimum)
Oil required : 6-7 litter/day
Cylinder No : 16
Gas consumed : 5 lac in BDT
Generator-2:
Type : Gas Generator
Manufacturer : Bangla cat
Manufactured Country : USA
Year of Construction : 2005
Rated Power : Prime
Capacity : 1600 KW
Efficiency : 90%
Voltage : 440
Frequency (Hz) : 50 Hz
Rotating Speed (RPM) :1500
No of pump :2
Gas pressure : 14 psi (9 psi minimum)
Oil required : 9-10 litter/day
Cylinder No. : 16
Gas consumed : 6 lac in BDT
Besides these two generator, Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has 10 KW national power grid
electric
connection.
121
11.4 Power consumption of different sections:
In Dyeing floor : 700-750 KW
Knitting floor : 5.5 KW/machine
In garments : 450 KW.
11.5 Water:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has own source of water from deep tubewell by a submersible
pump.
Water treatment plant:
Water Softening Method : Base Exchange Process
Depth of each pump : 500 ft.
Production capacity : (of deep tube well)
Pump-1 : 175-200 m3/hr. with 50-55 hp
Pump-2 : 150 m3/hr. with 38-42 hp
Delivery of Soft water:
Pump-1 : 150 m3/hr.
Pump-2 : 100 m3/hr.
Required water : Average less than 200 m3/hr.
Hardness of unprocessed water: 80-130 ppm
Hardness of processed water : 0-5 ppm
Total project cost : 143 lac
122
closed. After 15 min the valve is open and then normal and salt water mixed and
come through resin filter. Then hardness measured is time to time until desired
hardness is found.
11.7 Hardness Test Method:
Procedure:
1. Take 100 ml of sample water in a beaker.
2. Add 5 ml (NH)4 Cl Buffer solution.
3. Pour 1-2 drops of Erichrome black T solution.
4. Finally titrate it against EDTA (0.01M) solution.
11.8 Calculation:
1 ml of 0.01 M EDTA = 1 mg
Total hardness = volume of EDTA * 10 ppm.
100 ml sample are taken. But for ppm sample will be 1 litter, so the result will be 100
times more.
11.9 Steam Supply:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd use two boiler to supply steam for different operation where it is
necessary.
Specification of boiler:
Boiler -1:
Type of Boiler : Fire tube boiler
Company name : Cleaver & books
Model : CB700600150
Country : USA
Max working Pressure : 150(PSI)
Running working pressure : 100 psi
Capacity : 10 ton steam/hr.
Actually produce : 9.4 ton/hr.
BTU/HR : NAT
Heating surface : 3000 sft
Vapor Production capacity : 20700lb/hr.
Electricity Required : 25 KW
Boiler-2:
Type of Boiler : Fire tube boiler
123
Company name : Cleaver & books
Model : CB400600150
Country : USA
Max. working Pressure : 150(PSI)
Running working pressure : 100 psi
Capacity : 10 ton steam/hr.
Actually produce : 9.4 ton/hr.
BTU/HR : NAT
Heating surface : 3000 sft
Vapor Production capacity : 20700lb/hr.
Electricity Required : 25 KW
Power Supply : 3 phase
Frequency : 50 Hz
Volts : 415 volts, 54 amp
Min .circuit ampacity : 61.5 amp
Max. rating of circuit protection: 216 amp
Blower motor : 20Hp
Air compressor : 7.5 hp
Oil heater : 7.5 KW
Control circuit : 120V, 1 phase, 50 hz,
Oil pump motor : 415 V, 3 phase, 50 hz, 1.8 amp.
Source of water in Boiler : Soft water from water treatment plant are used in this
two fire tube Boiler
Chemicals used : There are two chemicals are used in boiler for
removing scaling. And this chemicals are dosed with
soft eater into the boiler throughout 24 hours by drop.
Chemicals are Protector 2001 (scale inhibitor for
boiler) Eraser 1001 (water scale inhibitor)
Approximately 16 lac BDT has been invested in this two Boiler.
11.10 Compressed Air Supply:
Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required.
In Texeurop (BD) Ltd .There are two compressors are used to produce and deliver
compressed air to different section.
124
11.11 Specification of Compressor:
No of compressor : 02
Manufacturer : ATLAS Copco Airpower
Origin : Germany
Type : GA55C
P max. : 10 bar, 145 psi, 1 MPa
P motor : 55KW, 75 hp
n motor : 2975 r/min
Air pressure : 08 bar (For factory)
Max pressure : 10 bar
Air suck : 5.83m3/min
- Temperature of compressor should not exceed 100 C
- Normal temperature : 94-98 C
- No of Reservoir :1
- Capacity of Reservoir : 1000 L
- 30% of total produced compressed air is used in Dyeing floor and others are used in
Knitting and garments.
11.12 Gas:
The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD.
The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water)
from the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.
11.13 Cost of Different Utilities:
Electricity cost:
REB : 3.8 TK / KW-HR
Gas generator : 1.80 TK / KW-HR
Gas cost:
For boiler : 4.94 Tk/m³
For generator : 3.66 Tk/m³
For domestic purpose : 4.5 Tk/m³
Steam cost:
Per kg of fabric : 4.30 Tk.
125
CHAPTER 12
STORE & INVENTORY
12.1 Introduction:
Inventory is planning and execution involves participation by most of the
fundamental segment of business sales, production, purchase, finance and
accounting. Inventory is a wider sense is defined as any idle resource of an
enterprise however it is semi-finished packing spares and other stocked in order to
meet an expected demand or distribution.
12.2 Objectives of Inventory Control:
1) Financial activities:
a) To save amount of investment
b) To know the cash position
2) Property Protection:
a) Preventable waste
b) Insurable damage
c) Unauthorized use
3) Operating:
a) To obtain the best overall balance between production and inventory carrying
cost.
b) To minimize losses
c) To avoid stock out and to keep inventory holding costs in costs in balance.
12.3 Scope of Inventory Control:
Raw materials
Dyes store.
Other chemicals.
Grey fabrics.
Finished fabric.
Spare parts.
General store:
Capital equipment‟s.
126
Accessories.
Stationary.
Maintenance parts.
12.4 Frequency of Inventory Update:
1. Monthly inventory control
2. Annual inventory control
12.5 Inventory Procedure:
Bin Card
Store Requisition
Store Ledger Account
Daily Inspection & Package Report
Monthly Stock & Consumption Report
Monthly L/C wise Delivery Report
Received Delivery & Balance Stock
12.6 Inventory Control System for Raw Materials:
Dye store & other chemicals store.
Both of these are received by the store in charge.
First he sends these to quality in-charge for inspection. If they are found to be
of required quality then they are taken to store by the storekeeper.
Store in-charge supplies these when required and records the date, type of
material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book.
12.7 Grey fabric store:
Grey fabric is usually stored in another storeroom, which is separate from
dyeing shade.
Grey fabric is first sent to the QC department for quality assurance and then
taken to the storeroom.
Grey fabric is received by fabric store in-charge.
He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of
material, quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book.
At present the grey fabrics store of Texeurop (BD) LTD. containing the
following types of fabrics-
Single jersey.
1x1 Rib.
127
2x2 Rib.
2x1 Rib.
Mélange.
Pique.
Single jersey (with Lycra attachment)
1x1 Rib (with Lycra attachment) etc.
Single locust
Double locust
Fleece
Terry Fleece
Interlock
128
12.10 Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control:
Finishing section.
After final inspection.
In Texeurop (BD) Ltd. we found finish fabric inventory amount is:
Weight = 1,40,700 kg .
Others:
There is a central store at Texeurop (BD) Ltd. In that store the various types of forms,
papers; stationary & other necessary goods are kept.
Remarks:
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods and spare
parts. The store of dyestuff and chemicals are not so clean. There is not enough space
to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store area.
129
CHAPTER 13
COST ANALYSIS
13.1 Introduction:
Costing system mainly describes how the cost of the final product is fixed by the
company/beneficial. So Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is
calculated. It is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.
And it is also strictly followed in the Texeurop (BD) Ltd. Costing of the products
considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers,
distributions and advertisement expenses etc. All direct and indirect expenses are need
to be considered during costing. It is determined by a team of accountants with advice
and consultancy of executive director.
13.2 Costing Of the Product:
The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in Texeurop (BD)
Ltd. Is:
Total cost of yarn
Cost of fabric Production
Total dyes & chemical cost
Total utility cost
Salary
Payment
Transport cost1
Miscellaneous cost
Government cash incentive
13.3 Price of the Product:
Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the total
expenses. So,
Price of products= (Direct expenses + Indirect expenses + Factory
Overhead) + Required profit
13.4 Price Range of Different Products:
T-Shirt = $0.75 - $4.50 /Pcs
Polo Shirt =$2.00 - $6.50 /Pcs Kids Wear ==$0.75- $2.15 /Pcs
130
13.5 Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics:
Table 13.1: Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics
Fabric name Charge per kg (Tk)
Single Jersey 09
Single Jersey with Lycra 30
Single lacost 16
Double Lacost 16
Rib 17
Rib with Lycra 30
Interlock 25
Fleece 22-25
131
13.8 Costing Of the Product:
Let price of yarn is : $ 3.00/ kg.
Process loss of yarn for knitting (10%) = $ 0.30
Knitting fabric cost = $ 3.30
Cost of dyes & chemicals = $ 2.50
Process loss for dyeing (12%) = $ 0.30
Dyed fabric cost = $ 6.10
Packing cost = $ 0.05
Production cost of fabric = $ 6.15
Fabric price (with 25% margin) = $ 7.79
Fabric consumption/ doz. =
(Body length + Sleeve length) x Chest length x 2 x GSM x12 /10000000
Garments specification (For a particular garment):
Body length =78 cm
Sleeve length =33 cm
Chest length =62 cm
GSM =210
Fabric consumption/ doz. = {(78+33) x62x2x210x12}/ 10000000 = 3.469 kg
Fabric consumption/ doz. (with 10% wastage) = 3.816 kg
Body fabric cost / doz. = $ (7.79x 3.816)
Cost of collar& cuff/ doz. = $ 4.00
Cost of Trims = $ 2.25
Cost of Trims (with 5% Process loss) = $ 2.36
Production Cost of Garments/ doz. = $36.09
Garments Price/ doz. (with 25% Profit) = $ 45.12
Remarks:
Proper Costing is very important for a productive factory. Without proper costing all
production will go to vain. Because a factory cannot reach to its goal without
achieving good profit and good profit is not possible without proper costing. So
costing should be done by a group of intelligent, experienced, highly qualified
personnel. Every Factory has some rules and regulations. Texeurop (BD) Ltd. did not
provide us all the documents of costing, because it‟s confidentially. So this Chapter is
not so sufficient to analyze the costing of product.
132
CHAPTER 14
WATER & EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
133
Soft water
Tank
Resin Tank-1
Resin Tank-2
134
THE EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
The Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has well organized Effluent treatment plant. Normally the
effluent generated from different sections of a textile mill must be treated before they
are discharged to environment. Various chemicals & physical means are introduced
for this purpose. The effluent treatment plant in Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is chemical
biological combination process.
14.1.1 Objects:
This process is provided for treating the effluents of dyeing, printing, finishing,
weaving & thus allow to discharge effluent as per by World Bank dept. of environment
of Bangladesh.
Capacity : 40 tons/ hr.
Cost : Tk. 6 / Litter
10 lac BDT spend per month in ETP.
14.1.2 Requirement of discharge effluent as per World Bank:
PH :6–8
BOD : < 50
COD : < 250
SS : < 100
TDS : Not stated
Colour : Clear
14.1.3 Chemical used:
1. Ferrous Sulphate.
2. Lime.
3. Polyelectrolyte.
4. HCl
14.1.4 Chemical using procedure:
- 80 Kg Ferrous sulphate is mixed with 1000L water.
- 50 Kg Lime is mixed with 1000L water.
- 1 Kg Polyelectrolyte is mixed with 1000L water.
135
14.1.5 Product Quality Check:
Following chemical tests are carried out to check the quality:
BOD
COD
Total suspended solids
Total dissolved solids
Colour
PH
14.1.6 Typical Output of the Plant:
Raw effluent Colour : Black/deep purple
Raw effluent pH : 10
Raw effluent BOD : 175-200
Treated effluent Colour : Light greenish
Treated Effluent pH : 6-6.5
Treated Effluent Temp : 380 C
Treated effluent BOD : 60-100
14.1.7 Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment:
Raw effluent
↓
Equalization Tank
↓
Flash mixing Tank
↓
Flocculation tank
↓
Tube settler tank-1
↓
PH correction channel
↓
Bacteria reactor-1
↓
Bacteria reactor-2
↓
136
Tube settler tank-2
↓
Filter feed sump
↓
Sludge Separation:
↓
Sludge of Tube settler
↓
Sludge thickening plant
↓
Centrifuge platform.
Remarks:
As the project Texeurop (BD) Ltd, it has vast utility systems. There is a skill
manpower, group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these
utility services. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of
responsibility for any type of problem due to utility supply.
137
Compliance Policy:
The Texeurop (BD) Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices. Our
goal is to continuously improve our Human Resource policies and procedures through
education, training, communication, and employee‟s involvement. To that end the
Texeurop (BD) Ltd. has identified eight (8) areas of importance. The Company
commits to management review, employees „open communication, policy
development and coordination with the SA 8000 standard to comply with all
State/Local laws and Industrial/Factory laws of Peoples Republic of Bangladesh to
provide a favorable employment environment that respects understands the needs of
its employees. The company commits to inform all employees of its policy and
position on the SA 8000 standard. All employees will be made aware of the Policy
and Company Statement upon implementation. Going forward all new employees will
be trained on SA 8000 in new employees‟ orientation. Periodically throughout the
year the company will reaffirm its commitment to the SA 8000 policy through
employee communications such as office notice, demonstration and payroll stuffers.
The eight (8) identified areas are:
a) Child Labor
b) Forced Labor
c) Health and Safety
d) Freedom of Assembly/ Right to Collectively Bargain
e) Discrimination
f) Disciplinary Practices
g) Working Hours
h) Remuneration/ Compensation
138
Conclusion:
139
REFERENCES
140