LAYERING SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

If you're anything like me, you pile at least three skin-care products on your face each morning.
Right now, my routine includes a moisturizing essence (which feels like water on your skin), an
antioxidant vitamin C serum (my current fave is SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic), and a sunscreen
with SPF 30 or higher (like Obagi Professional-C Suncare SPF 30). If you don't already layer
your skin care, it's a good idea to start: Dermatologists say it traps more active ingredients
against your skin, so every product you use works better. But you before you get all mixologist
on your face, you should know that some skin-care ingredients do not play nice together. Here's
your do-not-mix list:

Retinol and alpha hydroxy acids, like glycol and lactic acids. "This duo is a recipe for redness
and irritation," says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston. If you do mix them, the fastest
way to calm skin is by popping an anti-inflammatory, like aspirin, and smoothing on
hydrocortisone cream.

Citric acid with anything. We know what you’re thinking: What's citric acid? "It's an ingredient
in lots of moisturizers, and when you

it with other products, it causes irritation," says Hirsch. (It's listed as citric acid on the ingredient
list, so it's easy to spot.)

Retinol and acne treatments. Using salicylic acid and retinol at the same time causes dryness
and redness. Mixing benzoyl peroxide with retinol has the opposite effect: "The two ingredients
have been shown to deactivate each other," says Fredric Brandt, a dermatologist in New York
City and Miami.

Vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids. "They change the pH of vitamin C enough to destabilize
it, making the antioxidant ineffective," says David Bank, a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, New
York. If you're wearing a serum with glycolic acid, pick serums with heartier antioxidants, like
green tea and resveratrol.
1. Start light. Serums—the thinnest products—go first, because a) that just makes sense and b)
"they deliver active ingredients into the skin most efficiently," says Ranella Hirsch, a
dermatologist in Boston. Plus, they're easy to customize. Pick two or three serums that each treat
one of your concerns: formulas with peptides for wrinkles (we like Olay Regenerist
Regenerating Serum), salicylic acid for oily skin (try Murad T-Zone Pore Refining Serum),
and licorice or aloe to calm redness (like First Aid Beauty Anti-Redness Serum).

2. Add an antioxidant. Vitamin C is one ingredient every skin type needs. "It brightens, protects
against sun damage, and promotes collagen production," says cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson,
who recommends using a potent serum (such as Obagi Professional-C Serum 15%).

3. Take a coffee break. "If you give each product a minute to dry, it won't pill," says Fredric
Brandt, a dermatologist in New York City and Miami. "I flow my skin care in with the rest of my
morning routine. For example, I put on a product, have coffee, then put on a second product, then
brush my teeth."

4. Lock it down. Moisturizer is key to any layering routine because "it seals serums on your
skin, which can make them more effective," says Wilson. Feel free to keep it basic: Try Cetaphil
Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15 for normal and oily skin and Simple Replenishing Rich
Moisturizer for dry skin.

5. Know when to go in reverse. If your sensitive skin reddens at the thought of using even one
treatment product, try putting on a simple, fragrance-free moisturizer first and then serums on
top. "The cream will reduce the potency of the serums," says Hirsch, "but they'll also be less
likely to cause irritation."

6. Add an oil. In small doses, oils make skin radiant. Put them on dry areas after creams—as a
rule, oils can penetrate moisturizers, but not vice versa. We like L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect
Glow Renewal Facial Oil, with sunflower-seed and jojoba oils. Skip the oil if you're wearing
more than two serums under your moisturizer, though—at some point, you can't avoid looking
greasy.

7. Don't forget protection. "Sunscreen is your last step in the morning," says Jeannette Graf, a
dermatologist in Great Neck, New York. "It sits on top of your skin, so if it goes on first, it
prevents other ingredients from penetrating." Coppertone ClearlySheer Faces for Sunny Days
SPF 30 is lightweight enough to layer over multiple products.

8. Have a nightcap. It's not as sexy as a snifter of whiskey. But ending your nighttime routine
with a retinoid makes you look a whole lot younger. (Every dermatologist recommends this anti-
aging superingredient.) "I put my retinol over a serum and a cream—moisturizing helps retinol to
penetrate better with less irritation," says Brandt, who uses his own Dr. Brandt Do Not Age
Transforming Pearl Serum and Time Reversing Cream.