PG FS 07 Types of Looms

Master of Fashion Technology
© 2009 2
© 2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 3
Types of Looms 07
Types of Looms
Source of Power Form of Shed Weft Insertion
Hand Cam Shuttle
Shuttle
Power Dobby
less
Jacquard
©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 4
Weft Insertion 07
Shuttle 07
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Projectile 07
Projectile 07
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Projectile 07
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Projectile 07
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Air jet 07
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Air jet 07
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Air jet 07
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Rapier 07
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Rapier 07
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Rapier 07
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Rapier 07
Multiphase 07
10/26/2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 18
Multiphase 07
Multiphase 07
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Multiphase 07
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Multiphase 07
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Multiphase 07
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Multiphase 07
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Rapier Weaving 07
FASHION
Projectile Weaving
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Fabric
STANDARD
Air Jet Weaving
NARROW Weaving Machine Width `` WIDE

Fabric Production 07
Ю There are two categories of woven
fabric in the market.
Θ Plain, Mass - production fabrics
Θ Fashion fabrics
Ю For manufacture of Plain, mass
production fabrics Air-Jet looms are
the most appropriate technology due
to lower operating cost
Ю Double width projectile looms are
the next best.
Ю These looms are best suited for long
set lengths.
Ю Projectile looms are more suitable
for wider width Geo Textiles,
Industrial fabrics, heavy fabrics like
Canvas, Duck, Denim etc.
Ю Water-Jet looms are suitable only
for mass production of Synthetic
fabrics
Ю It is not suitable for Cotton fabrics.
Ю Even though weft insertion rate is
comparatively less, Rapier is known
for its versatility and more suitable for
weaving fashion fabrics of any Count,
Material, Construction like dress
Material, Suiting, Furnishing etc,.
Ю The possibilities of bringing out
more designs and combinations even in
smaller lengths for marketing, within a
time limit is more favorable for rapier
looms.
Disadvantages of
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Shuttle
Ю Shuttle loom needs a pirn-winding
Ю In addition, the shuttle sometimes
causes abrasion on the warp yarn as it
passes over them and may cause
thread breaks.
Disadvantages of
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Shuttle
Ю Limitation in quality of fabric
Ю Limitation in loom speed and hence
productivity
Ю More consumption of energy and
frequent replacement of spares parts.
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю High labour and machine
productivity due to high speed and
wider width of looms.
Ю Reduced labour cost due to higher
allocation of looms and productivity.
Ю Defect free cloth for longer length.
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю Better environment due to low
noise level.
Ю Pirn winding process is eliminated
Ю Less value loss of fabrics.
Ю Less dependency on labour skill
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю Low consumption of stores and
spares.
Ю Less space requirement per meter
of cloth.
Ю Lesser accidents.
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю More colours in weft direction (upto
12) by Pick and Pick method.
Ю Wider width fabrics and multi width
fabrics can be woven,
Ю High degree of flexibility to suit a
wide range of fibres and counts.
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю Easily adaptable for market trends.
Ю Bigger flanges can accommodate 3
times more yarn.
Ю Due to less beam changes lower
down-time and lesser wastages.
Advantages of
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Shuttleless
Ю Higher design capabilities due to
microprocessor and electronic
controls.
Ю Easy maintenance and less work
load for Jobbers.
07
Looms Loom Expected Average Labour Cost
per Speed Efficiency Salary per for Inserting
Type of Loom
Weaver (rpm) (%) Weaver per 10,000 Picks
Month (Rs.) (Paise)
Non Auto 4 144 90 3,500 5.41
Auto 12 144 90 5,000 2.58
Auto High Speed 12 210 90 5,000 1.77
Projectile 8 400 90 6,000 1.67
Rapier 12 330 90 6,000 1.35
Air Jet 8 750 90 6,000 0.89
Comparative Labour Costs for different Types of Looms (190 cm Width Loom)
07
Power Consumption /
Type of Loom
Loom Shift of 8 hr (in Units)
Non Auto 5.9
Auto 8.8
Auto High Speed 11.8
Projectile 14.7
Rapier 17.6
Air Jet 20.6 + 30.0 (Air Compressor)
Power Consumption per Loom Shift

Weaving Speeds 07
Type of loom Insertion per minute
Shuttle 300
Flexible rapier 950-1,300
Rigid rapier 1,000-1,300
Projectile 1,200-1,500
Water jet 1,800-2,000
Air jet 1,100-2,200
Multiphase 5,400
Production rate 07
Type of loom RPM Mts/8 hrs

Handloom 20 4
Ordinary loom 160 24
Auto loom 220 40
Rapier loom 400 73
Projectile loom 600 110
Air jet loom 800 146
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A weaver attended a stopped loom caused by yarn breakage
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Knitting 07
Ю The formation of a fabric by inter-

looping of one or more yarn sets.
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Knitting 07
Ю Methods
Θ Filling or weft knitting: yarn
moves horizontally (back and forth)
or around the fabric
Θ Warp knitting: yarn moves
vertically in the fabric
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Weft Knits 07
Ю Machine knitting steps

Θ Loop pulling, running, clearing,
yarn feeding, knockover.
Weft Knits 07
Ю Types
Θ Hand or machine.
Ю Machine types
Θ Flat bed or circular.
Warp Knits 07
Ю Making fabric using one or more

yarn sets where each set is controlled
by guide bars and each stitch is
formed by different yarns.
Warp Knits 07
Ю Machines
Θ Tricot and Raschel.
Types of Needles
07
Beard Latch Compound
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Simplest, but
requiring another Two independent
element to control Self acting
controlled part
Knitting 07
Ю Stitches
Θ loops made by needles (also
known as loops)
Knitting 07
Ю Wales
Θ Vertical column of stitches; each
needle forms a wale;
Θ wpi is wales per
inch.
Knitting 07
Ю Course
Θ Horizontal row of stitches;
Θ cpi is courses per inch;
Knitting 07
Ю Stitch Density or Loop Density

Θ It refers to the total number of
loops in a measured area of fabric
Θ wpi X cpi
(Unit is cm2) Do Not Copy
Knitting 07
Ю Loop Length
Θ Measured in millimeters
Θ Length of yarn in one knitted loop
Knitting 07
Ю Loop Length
Θ It is one of the most important
factors controlling the properties of
knitted fabrics.
Knitting 07
Ю Cut or gauge
Θ Number of needles per inch
(related to stitches per inch); higher
the number, finer the knit.
Knitting 07
6 Cut Fabric 6 Wales/Inch
16 Cut Fabric 16 Wales/Inch
Loop Stitch 07
Loop Stitch 07
Loop Stitch 07
Characteristics 07
Ю Quick process
Θ 4 times faster than weaving
Ю Made on wider machines

Ю Versatile process
Characteristics 07
Ю Yarns must be
Θ much more regular;
Θ filament,
Θ combed,
Θ or worsted
Characteristics 07
Ю Requires More yarn than woven

fabrics.
Ю Uses: Apparel, furnishings, &
industrial goods.
Characteristics 07
Ю Fabric
Θ Porous, bulky, lofty, warm,
wrinkle resistant, low in cover,
permeable, stretchy; may run
(collapse of a wale).
Knit Fabrics 07
Ю Quality and performance

assessment
Θ Similar to woven fabrics, but
snagging and skew can be major
problems.
Knit Fabrics 07
Ю Better quality knits have good

weight for fabric type, are well suited
for end use, free of defects, and have
good performance potential
Environmental Impact07
Ю Less than for weaving
Ю Less use of chemicals to prepare
yarns
Ю Less energy use
Environmental Impact07
Ю No equivalent of water or air jet
looms
Ю Quieter than shuttle looms
Ю Less lint
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю Fabrics can be made from fibres as
well as from yarns.
Ю It eliminates the yarn production
process and makes the fabric directly
from fibres.
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Conventional fabric production
Fiber Yarn Fabric
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Non-woven fabric production
Fiber Fabric
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю The great advantages in non-woven
fabrics is the speed with which the
final fabric is produced.
Ю All yarn preparation steps are
eliminated, & fabric production itself
is faster than conventional methods
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю To produce 500,000 meters of
woven sheeting requires 2 months of
yarn preparation, 3 months of weaving
on 50 looms & 1 month for finishing
Ю Non-woven fabric can deliver same
quantity of sheeting within 2 months
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю Not only are production rate are
higher for nonwovens, but the process
is more automated, requiring less
labour than even most modern knitting
or weaving systems.
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Production Rate
Fabric Production Rate Of Fabric
Method Production
Weaving 1 m/min
Knitting 2 m/min
Nonwoven 100 m/min
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю Nevertheless, their aesthetic
properties (handle, drape,
appearance) are such that they are
not in direct competition with
conventional fabrics in the outerwear
market.
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю Woven & knitted fabrics will not be
replaced by nonwovens in near future
Ю Currently, the main areas of growth
in nonwovens are in geotextiles,
medical and hospital uses, disposable
products and filters.
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю There are two general categories of
non woven fabrics
Θ Durable
Θ Non Durable
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю Making Non-woven products
Θ There are normally two steps for
making non-woven products.
Θ They are:
Φ Web formation; and
Φ Bonding systems. 90
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Web Formation 07
Ю A nonwoven fabric is basically a web

of fibres held together in some way.
Ю The web may be made of staple
fibres or filaments, or from portions of
polymer film.
Web Formation 07
Ю Web formation can be done by, also

known as dry laid
Θ Parallel-laid web
Θ Cross-laid web
Θ Random web
Web Formation 07
Ю Apart from carding methods (dry-
laid), webs from short staple fibres are
created by
Θ Wet laying;
Θ Electrostatic web formation; and
Θ Spraying.
Nonwoven Fabric 07
Ю In order to impart the strength, web is
bounded by one of the following methods
Θ Needled felts
Θ Adhesives
Θ Heat bonding
Θ Stitch bonding

PG FS 07 Types of Looms

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PG FS 07 Types of Looms

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Master of Fashion Technology

Source of Power Form of Shed Weft Insertion

Hand Cam Shuttle

Air Jet Weaving

NARROW Weaving Machine Width `` WIDE

Power Consumption per Loom Shift

Type of loom RPM Mts/8 hrs

A weaver attended a stopped loom caused by yarn breakage

Ю The formation of a fabric by inter-

Ю Machine knitting steps

Ю Making fabric using one or more

Beard Latch Compound

Do Not Copy Do Not Copy

Θ cpi is courses per inch;

Ю Stitch Density or Loop Density

(Unit is cm2) Do Not Copy

Θ Length of yarn in one knitted loop

6 Cut Fabric 6 Wales/Inch

16 Cut Fabric 16 Wales/Inch

Do Not Copy Do Not Copy

Do Not Copy Do Not Copy

Do Not Copy Do Not Copy

Ю Made on wider machines

Ю Requires More yarn than woven

Ю Quality and performance

Ю Better quality knits have good

Fiber Yarn Fabric

Φ Web formation; and

Ю A nonwoven fabric is basically a web

Ю Web formation can be done by, also

Θ Electrostatic web formation; and

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