Professional Documents
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MATERIAL
Sector: Masonry
Welcome!
The unit of competency, "Lay brick/block for structure", is one of the competencies of
MASONRY NC II, a course witch comprise the knowledge, skills and attitudes required
for a TVET trainer to possess.
The module, "Lay brick/block for structure", contains training materials and activity
related to identify learner requirements, preparing session plan, preparing basics
instructional materials and organizing learning and team activities for you to complete.
In this module Masonry, you are required to go through a series of learning activities
in order to complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are Information
Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Task/Job Sheets. Follow and perform the
activities on your own. If you have questions, do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your
facilitator.
Remember to:
• Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
• Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are included to
supplement the materials provided in this module.
• Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He is there to support
you and show you the correct way to do things.
• You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job. Make
sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way, you will improve your
speed, memory and your confidence.
• Use the Self-Checks, Operation Sheets or Task or Job Sheets at the end of each section to
test your own progress. Use the Performance Criteria Checklist or Procedural Checklist
located after the sheet to check your own performance.
• When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to evaluate
you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and
Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module.
You may already have some of the most of the knowledge and skills covered in this
learning’s guide because you have;
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are already competent in a particular
skill or skills, talk to him/her about having them formally recognized so you don’t have to do
the same training again. If you have a qualification or Certification of competency from
previous training, show it to your trainer. If the skill you acquired is to still current and
relevant to the unit/s of the competency they may become the part of the evidence you may
present to RPL. If you are not sure about the current of your skill, discuss with your trainer.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency, in Lay
brick/block for structure. This will be the source for you to acquire knowledge and skill into
this particular trade independent and your own pace, with minimum supervision or help from
your instructor.
Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this unit.
Read through the module carefully. It is divided into section, which cover all skills and
knowledge you need to successfully complete this module.
Work though all information and complete the activity in each section. Read
information sheets and job sheets and complete the self-check and perform the procedural
checklist. Suggested references are including supplementing the materials in this module.
Most probably your trainer will be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to
support you and show you the correct way to do thing.
You trainer will tell you about the important thing you need to consider when you are
completing activities and it is important that will listen ant take notes.
Use the self-chick question the end of each section to test you own progress.
When you are ready, ask you trainer to watch you perform the activity outcome in this
module.
As you work though the activity, ask for written feedback on your progress. You
trainer keeps feedback/pre assessment reports for this reason. When you have successfully
completed each element, ask you trainer to mark on reports that you are ready for the
assessment.
When you have complete this module (or several module), and feel confident that you
have had sufficient practice, your trainer will agree an appointment with registered assessor
to assess you. The result of your assessment will be the record in your Competency
Achievement Record.
MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This module covers the outcomes required to lay brick/blocks
for structure. It includes the skills in establishing
brick/block structure location. Performing brick/block
laying and curing.
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
Upon completion of this module, the trainer/ student MUST be able to:
LO1. Identify and explain the uses of tools and equipment in brick/block laying.
LO2. Identify and explain the composition, properties, uses and types of masonry materials.
LO3. Enumerate and explain the various methods and processes in masonry construction.
Lo4. Identify and interpret drawing symbols and plans.
Lo5. Perform trade mathematics and mensuration.
Lo6. Perform 5S.
Lo7. Identify and describe safe work practices and first aid regulations.
Lo8. Perform safe work practices and respond to emergency situations.
Lo9. Install/dismantle scaffold.
Lo10. Install and mark batter boards.
Lo11. Install reinforcing bar/dowel.
Lo12. Lay brick/block.
Lo13. Check for plumbness/squareness.
Lo14. Construct/cast-in place concrete structures.
Lo15. Check all brick/block and concrete works for quality.
Lo16. Clean work site and maintain tools and equipment
CONTENTS:
Types and uses of tools and equipment for brick/block laying
Description of tools and equipment
CONDITION:
Workplace location
Classroom for discussion
Tools and Equipment
Instruction materials
METHODOLOGIES:
Modular
Demonstration
Small group discussion
ASSESMENT METHOD:
LEARNING EXPERIENCES
LEARNING OUTCOME # 1
2. Answer Self-Check 1.1-1 Compare your answer to the key No: 1.1-1
answers with the answer key. You are
required to get all answers correct. If not,
read the information sheets again to answer
all questions correctly.
3. Read Information Sheet No. 1.1-2
Description of tools and equipment
4. Answer Self-Check 1.1-2 Compare your answer to the key No: 1.1-2
answers with the answer key. You are
required to get all answers correct. If not,
read the information sheets again to answer
all questions correctly.
Always use the head of the hammer, not the side to strike with. The metal is not
hardened here, is much thinner where the handle passes through and can be
damaged. The hammer is also unbalanced making it harder to make a clean strike
and you will generally find it harder to see what you are striking too.
You hammer does need some maintenance. If the hammer handle is held in the head
of the hammer with wedges these can work loose or the handle can shrink if it
wooden. This means that the head can come loose and slip down the handle hurting
your hands or even fly off. Tip: Soak the head of hammers with wooden handles to
make the wood expand which will secure the head to the handle again. You might
need to add new wedges if required.
The face can become polished with use and can slip off nails when struck; roughen
the face with some abrasive paper to prevent this happening.
Protect delicate work from hammer blow marks by using a piece of scrap wood to
adsorb the blow. Place the off-cut onto the surface you wish to hit and then strike
this rather than the object directly; it will protect it.
Parts of a Hammer
The basic shape and design of a hammer has not change for hundreds of years.
Traditionally the handle was made from wood, most commonly ash or hickory. Now this
is changing with the introduction of other materials which can absorb the shock from the
hammer blow better or are considerably lighter and/or stronger.
In most cases the head of the hammers is made of metal and this is the part of the
hammer that shows the greatest variation. Here are some of the common parts of
hammer heads:
Generally the handle is attached to the head through a hole in the head (the eye). The handle
is secured by driving wedges into the wood of the handle to make it expand and fit the hole
tightly. This allows the handle to be changed should it become damaged.
Claw hammer -
The claw is used as a lever; it generally has a notch which is used to lever out nails from
timber. The claw is inserted under the head of the nail so that it catches - this can take a
little jiggling about. The nail is then levered out by pulling back on the handle and using
the curve of the claw as the fulcrum. The claw can be used to lever other things, such as
floorboards, but excessive use can put strain on the join between the head and handle, so
check this regularly.
Ball Pen
These hammers are sometimes called engineers or mechanics hammers. They have a
rounded, hence ″ball″, pen which is used for shaping metal, closing rivets and rounding
edges off metal pins and fasteners.
Sledge Hammer
They are used for breaking up masonry, stones and concrete. They are also useful for
driving in stakes. Real force can be delivered by swinging the hammer like an axe; the
longer handle will provide huge momentum and hitting power when combined with the
weight of the head.
Mallet
A mallet is a wooden block on a handle. It is used to hit and drive a chisel, knock in
dowels or to tap wooden joints together. This is an essential tool for a joiner or carpenter.
Copper and Hide Hammers - This hammer's head has copper at one end and rawhide at
the other. It is used for shaping metal when you do not want hammer marks on it, such as
on car bodywork.
Geologist Pick Hammers - This is a small, spiked pick axe for knocking fragments of
rock. On the other end of the head is a flat face for breaking up small rocks. Other than
geologists looking for fossils, brick layers sometimes these hammers to pick out old
brickwork joints.
Plashing Hammer - This is a metal working hammer, used to smooth out hammered
metal which still has the hammer marks on it from forming the shape.
Roofers & Slaters Hammers - This hammer is used by roofers. It has a spike at one end
for putting nail holes in slates. At the other end is a hammer to knock in the nails which
hold the slates to the roofing battens. In the middle it typically has a claw for pulling
(removing) nails.
Scotch Hammers - A scotch hammer is used for scotching (knocking) off old mortar
from bricks and paving.
Tack & Upholstery Hammers - These hammers typically have one magnetised or slotted
head for starting off upholstery tacks, and then you can change round to normal head to
finish the nail off. Both faces on the head are small and delicate.
Drywall Hammers - A dry wall hammer will have a small axe on one end of the head and
a hammer face on other. Axe is used for cutting plasterboard for pipes and making other
holes or opening in the plasterboard. Sometimes they have a magnetic head for finding
studs with screws/nails in, which can be very useful. Traditionally a lath hammer would
have been used but now plasterboard is used there is no need to a lath hammer except in
older buildings.
Rubber and Soft Hammers - These are hammers that are used like mallets and are
designed not to damage the surface which you are bashing, albeit walls, timber, chisels
etc. The can have interchangeable, shaped faces which are useful for woodwork, easing
tight doors / windows trim fitting including chrome and rubber surrounds or for light
assembly work - knocking things into place.
The tape measure consists of a steel ribbon or tape with linear distance measurement
markings. The tape is rigid enough to remain stiff when extended for measuring purposes yet
flexible enough to retract into the housing when not in use. Measuring tapes come in a variety
of different lengths from about 6 feet to 50+ feet. For everyday use, tapes in the 12 to 25 foot
range are most common. Tapes are available with metric markings, English markings, or both
metric and English markings.
A folding rule consists of multiple pivoting sections that unfold and lock in place to form a
rigid ruler for taking length measurements. A typical folding rule is 6 to 8 feet long when
extended. When not in use, the sections are folded back together into a compact bundle that is
typically about 6" long. A folding rule is also called a carpenter's folding rule, a mason's rule
or a zig-zag rule. Rules are available with metric or English markings, sometimes with both.
A hawk or hood is a tool used to temporarily hold a viscous material so that the user can apply
that material to a surface using a different tool. It consists of a board about 25 cm (9 inches)
square with a perpendicular handle fixed centrally on the reverse.
Hawks are most often used by plasterers along with a finishing trowel to apply a smooth finish of
plaster to a wall. Brick pointers use a hawk to hold mortar while they work. Hawks are also used
to hold joint compound for skim coating.
line pin
A metal pin used in masonry work to support a horizontal string or line.
The mason positions the line and then uses it as a guide in maintaining proper alignment of
the work.
A shovel is a tool for digging, lifting, and moving bulk materials, such as soil, coal,
gravel, snow, sand, or ore. Shovels are common tools that are used extensively in
agriculture, construction, and gardening. Most shovels are hand tools consisting of a
broad blade fixed to a medium-length handle.
Spirit level is a tool used to indicate how parallel (level) or perpendicular (plumb) a surface
is relative to the earth.
A wheelbarrow is a small hand-propelled vehicle, usually with just one wheel, designed to be pushed
and guided by a single person using two handles at the rear, or by a sail to push the
ancient wheelbarrow by wind.
An angle grinder, also known as a side grinder or disc grinder, is a handheld power tool used for
cutting, grinding and polishing. Angle grinders can be powered by an electric motor, petrol engine
or compressed air.
Multiple choice:
Choose the letter of the correct answer.
1. are the most common type of hammer and probably the one that comes to mind when most
people think about a hammer
A. claw hammer B. ball pen hammer C. mallet D. line pin
2. These hammers are sometimes called engineers or mechanics hammers.
A. claw hammer B. ball pen hammer C. mallet D. line pin
3. is a wooden block on a handle. It is used to hit and drive a chisel, knock in dowels or to tap
wooden joints together.
A. spirit level B. wheel barrow C. drill D. mallet
4. Consists of a steel ribbon or tape with linear distance measurement markings.
A. mallet B. pull push rule C. folding rule D. framing square
5. used in masonry work to support a horizontal string or line.
A. nylon string B. straw C. line pin D. G.I wire
6. is a weight, usually with a pointed tip on the bottom, that is suspended from a string and
used as a vertical reference line
A. spirit level B. plumb bob C. level hose D. all of the above
7. is a tool used to indicate how parallel (level) or perpendicular (plumb) a surface is relative
to the earth.
A. spirit level B. plumb bob C. level hose D. none of the above
8. is a small hand-propelled vehicle, usually with just one wheel, designed to be pushed and
guided by a single person using two handles at the rear, or by a sail to push the
ancient ________ by wind.
A. mixer B. measuring box C. wheel barrow D. none of the above
9. is a tool fitted with a cutting tool attachment or driving tool attachment,
A. grinder B. drill C. planer D. jig saw
10. is a handheld power tool used for cutting,
A. grinder B. drill C. jack hammer D. planer
1. A
2. B
3. C
4. B
5. C
6. B
7. A
8. C
9. B
10. A
8 ounce
16 ounce
32 ounce
16 ounce
8 ounce
460 grams
4.5 inches
16 ounce
3 ounce
16 ounce
4 inches face diameter
3 meter
5 meter
7.5 meter
8 meter
9 inches square
3 inches width
4 inches width
5 inches width
6 inches width
32 ounce
18 ounce
8 ounce
One wheel
Two wheel
Electric drill
Hammer drill
Compressed air
1. Grinder
*
2. Drill
*
*
3. Claw hammer
*
*
4. Pull push rule
*
*
5. Plumb bob
*
*
1. Grinder
* Compressed air
2. Drill
* Electric drill
* Hand drill
3. Claw hammer
* 24 oz
* 16 oz
4. Pull push rule
* 3 meter
* 5 meter
5. Plumb bob
* 32 oz
* 18 oz