INTERNSHIP REPORT

Crescent Bahuman Limited

Internship in Textile Wet Processing

A report submitted as a partial fulfillment for the degree of B.Sc. Textile
Engineering
By

Abdul Ahad Khan

17-TE-01

Duration
01-01-2021 to 30-01-2019

Bahauddin Zakariya University College

of Textile Engineering
NLC bypass Chowk،، Khanewal Rd, Pak Arab Fertilizer Housing Colony, Multan, Punjab 60000

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Table of Contents

SECTION I ................................................................................................................................................. 5

1-INTRODUCTION: ................................................................................................................................................. 5
1.1 History: ...............................................................................................................................................................5
1.2 The Crescent Group: ..........................................................................................................................................5
1.3 CBL Profile: .........................................................................................................................................................7
1.3.1 Vision Statement: ............................................................................................................................................7
1.3.2 Certificates: .....................................................................................................................................................7
1.4 Customers: .........................................................................................................................................................8
1.5 Facilities: ............................................................................................................................................................8
1.6 Co-curricular activities: ......................................................................................................................................8
1.7 Housing: .............................................................................................................................................................9
1.8 School: ................................................................................................................................................................9
1.9 Structure: ...........................................................................................................................................................9
1.10 Organogram (Authority Distribution): ...........................................................................................................10
1.10.1 Organogram: ...............................................................................................................................................11

SECTION-II ............................................................................................................................................. 12

2-DENIM .............................................................................................................................................................. 12
2.1 Introduction: ....................................................................................................................................................12
2.2 Denim Fabric: ...................................................................................................................................................12
2.3 Process Flow:....................................................................................................................................................13

SECTION-III ............................................................................................................................................ 14

3-DEPARTMENTS ................................................................................................................................................. 14

3.1 Textile Zone: .................................................................................................................................................. 14

3.1.1 Spinning:........................................................................................................................................................14
3.1.2 Dyeing: ..........................................................................................................................................................15
3.1.3 Weaving: .......................................................................................................................................................16

3.2 Finishing Department:.................................................................................................................................... 16

3.2.1 Singeing: ........................................................................................................................................................17
3.2.2 Singeing in CBL: .............................................................................................................................................19
3.2.3 Pad Steam: ....................................................................................................................................................19
3.2.4 De-sizing: .......................................................................................................................................................20
3.2.5 Over-dyeing: ..................................................................................................................................................20
3.2.6 Mercerizing: ..................................................................................................................................................20
3.2.7 Washing: .......................................................................................................................................................20
3.2.8 Stenter: .........................................................................................................................................................21

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 3.2.9 Sanfor: ...........................................................................................................................................................21
3.2.10 Packing: .......................................................................................................................................................21

2.3 Apparel Zone ................................................................................................................................................. 21

2.3.1 Cutting: ..........................................................................................................................................................21
2.3.2 Stitching: .......................................................................................................................................................22

2.4 Product development (PD): ............................................................................................................................ 24

2.4.1 Machines in P.D Washing Department: ........................................................................................................25

SECTION: III ........................................................................................................................................... 26

3.Washing ............................................................................................................................................................ 26
3.1 Types of Denim Washing Process: ...................................................................................................................26
3.2 Denim Washing Flowchart ...............................................................................................................................27
3.3 Rigid Inventory .................................................................................................................................................28
3.4 Staging ..............................................................................................................................................................28

3.5 Garment Dry Process GDP .............................................................................................................................. 29

3.5.1 Whiskers/Moustaches ..................................................................................................................................29
3.5.2 Scraping: ........................................................................................................................................................31
3.5.3 PP Spray: .......................................................................................................................................................32
3.5.4 PP Sponging or Buffy: ....................................................................................................................................32
3.5.5 Ripping/Destroy ............................................................................................................................................33
3.5.6 Dennison Area ...............................................................................................................................................33
3.5.7 Tagging pin/ Tacking .....................................................................................................................................34
3.5.8 Tie (Cable or Pin) Washing Process: ..............................................................................................................34
3.5.9 LASER technology: .........................................................................................................................................35
3.5.10 Crinkle .........................................................................................................................................................37
3.5.11 Resin: ...........................................................................................................................................................38
3.5.12 Faults of dry process: ..................................................................................................................................38

3.6 Garment Wet Process GWP............................................................................................................................ 40

3.6.1 Direct Wash/ Rinse Wash ..............................................................................................................................40

3.6.2 First wash: ................................................................................................................................................... 41

3.6.2.1 Desizing: .....................................................................................................................................................41
3.6.2.2 Enzyme Wash: ............................................................................................................................................42
3.6.2.3 Stone wash: ................................................................................................................................................44
PUMICE stone: .......................................................................................................................................................46
3.6.2.4 Bleaching: ...................................................................................................................................................47
Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCL): ...............................................................................................................................47
Hydrogen per oxide(H2O2): ....................................................................................................................................48
Sodium Meta bi- sulphate (Na2S2O5): ..................................................................................................................49
3.6.2.5 Drying: ........................................................................................................................................................49

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3.6.3 Second wash ............................................................................................................................................... 49
3.6.3.1 Random washing: .......................................................................................................................................50
Rags .......................................................................................................................................................................50
Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4): ......................................................................................................................50
3.6.3.2 Acid wash: ..................................................................................................................................................50
3.6.3.3 Ozone treatment: .......................................................................................................................................51
3.6.3.4 Tinting: .......................................................................................................................................................52
3.6.3.5 Softeners: ...................................................................................................................................................52
3.6.3.6 Bio-Polishing:..............................................................................................................................................53
3.6.4 Machines used in Washing (In CBL): .............................................................................................................54

3.7 Finishing Department:.................................................................................................................................... 55

3.7.1 Loop cutting: .................................................................................................................................................55
3.7.2 Trimming: ......................................................................................................................................................55
3.7.3 Inside checking: .............................................................................................................................................56
3.7.4 Buttons & rivets attachment: ........................................................................................................................56
3.7.5 Press: .............................................................................................................................................................56
3.7.6 General checking: ..........................................................................................................................................57

SECTION IV ............................................................................................................................................. 58

4. Essential Supporting Departments ................................................................................................................... 58

4.1 Human Resource Department (HR) .............................................................................................................. 58

4.1.1 HR Responsibilities ........................................................................................................................................58

4.2 Production plaining and control (PPC):........................................................................................................... 59

4.2.1 Working of PPC .............................................................................................................................................59
4.2.2 PPC Plan for Regular Denim Article ...............................................................................................................61

4.3 Marketing: ..................................................................................................................................................... 61

4.3.1 The marketing concepts are:.........................................................................................................................61
4.3.2 Process of Marketing ....................................................................................................................................62

SECTION V .............................................................................................................................................. 63

5.Feedback .......................................................................................................................................................... 63
5.1 Strength ............................................................................................................................................................63
5.2 Conclusion and Recommendations: .................................................................................................................63
5.3 Remarks: ..........................................................................................................................................................64

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 ACKNOWLEDGMENT

In the name of Allah, the most Gracious, the most Merciful

“All praises be to Allah, the Lord of the World, The Beneficent and the Merciful.
Owner of the Day of Judgment, thee (alone) we worship; Thee alone we ask for
help. Show us the straight path, the path of those whom thou hast favored; Not
(the path) of those who earn Thine anger nor of those who astray.”

(Al Quran)

First of all, wholly acknowledgments are due to Allah Almighty. This internship
report is vital requirement for completion of Bachelor Program in Textile
Engineering offered at Bahauddin Zakariya University, Multan.

Bahauddin Zakariya university Multan is one of the leading universities of the

country. We ourselves feel proud as being a part of that superb University and of
our teachers because of their excellent style of teaching and vast knowledge, as
well as their scholastic approach. The purpose of this program is to give practical
exposure to our field of studies. It is also helpful for understanding the
organizational environment and to deal with the professionals. For that, I joined
Crescent Bahuman Limited. During my internship span of 30 days, I got a chance
to work in finishing and garment washing departments of Crescent Bahuman
Limited.

I tried best to include everything which I learned and observed here. This report
details the technical and the managerial aspects. I got much support from all
officers and associates at Crescent Bahuman Limited who have not only been a
source of motivation to us but also extended their help whenever needed. Without
their help and motivation, it would have not possible for me to do all this.

“May Allah Almighty bless all these patrons and put them on right path” (Ameen)
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Section I

1-INTRODUCTION:
Crescent Bahuman Limited (CBL) is a denim fabric and garments production facility
established in 1995, based in Lahore, Pakistan. CBL, as it is known in textile circles,
is part of the Crescent Group of Companies with an expertise of over 60 years in
Textiles. CBL was the first fully integrated denim garment facility in Pakistan
capable of converting cotton to garments packed in cartons, all under one campus
off Lahore. With Over 7000 employees trained in various skills in operations to
perfection. CBL – as it’s lovingly known in the industry – has gone from strength to
strength by creating an eco-friendly environment that enables its most important
resources, our people, to develop and deliver to the satisfaction of our clientele.
CBL is proud to be providing clothing for more than 10 million people annually.

1.1 History:
History of Crescent group dates back to the start of the 20th century when Mr.
Shams Din of Chiniot and his four sons Mr. Amin, Mr. Bashir, Mr. Fazal Karim and
Mr. Muhammad Shafi came in to the business with a Tannery at Amritsar and then
latter become one of the leaders of the leather business in the sub-continent. They
latter shifted their focus towards textile and upon migration they struggled a bit in
the beginning but latter they were allotted over 125 acres in Faisalabad. The family
took advantage of that and established crescent textile in Faisalabad.

1.2 The Crescent Group:

The Crescent Group has ascertained an outstanding reputation in Pakistan’s
business community, with over 60 years of experiences in diversified businesses
such as textiles, sugar, banking, insurance, food, agriculture, and steel.

Crescent Bahuman was initially established as a joint venture between the Crescent
Group and Greenwood Mills. The Crescent group has solely owned it since 2001.
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1.3 CBL Profile:
Falling under the Crescent Group ‘vast umbrella’, Crescent Bahuman Limited is a
value driven company with aspirations to establish itself as a well renowned
global denim brand. Crescent Bahuman limited was set up as a joint venture
between Green wood Group of US and Crescent Group of Pakistan and also
supported by international Finance Corporation and Asian Finance Corporation.
The planning was started back in 1992 and the land was purchased in 1993 with
an area of around 174 acres. The plant erection was completed in 1994 and the
production was started in 1995 and the total capital invested was 80 million US
dollars. Initially the name was crescent greenwood limited but latter after the
separation the company was renamed as Crescent Bahuman Limited named after
the native village of Bahuman.

1.3.1 Vision Statement:

To be a role model in business world; to create opportunities in the economy and
to optimize the value of our stake holders.

1.3.2 Certificates:
CBL complies with the following quality, environmental and social standard:

1. ISO 9001: 2008 7. GOTS/OE

2. ISO 14001:2004 8. NEQS

3. OHSAS 18001: 2007 9. WORLD BANK STANDARDS

4. WRAP 10. OKEOTEX

5. SA 8000 11. TOE/COC (Social & Environmental

standards) for different customer
6. C-TPAT

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1.4 Customers:
• Levi’s (World Wide) • Nautica Jeans C
• Mustang • Mc Gordon
• Stoneage • GAS
• GAP • Dressmann
• Blend • Arezona
• Big Star • Colorado Limited
• Ben Shermen • Express

1.5 Facilities:
The campus is fully equipped with its own power generation, effluent water
treatment facility, medical dispensary, firefighting department, gym and various
other grounds for extracurricular activities, golf course, housing, and a school for
your children.

Besides providing safety equipment and firefighting services, the neighborhood

also provides a 24-hour dispensary. In case of emergencies, medical impasse
coverages are also provided to ensure health and safety to the inhabitants of our
and neighboring communities.

1.6 Co-curricular activities:

For participation there are various extra-curricular activities at disposal on
campus.

• Badminton • Cricket
• Table Tennis • Golf
• Basketball • Volleyball
• Football • Yoga

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1.7 Housing:
The campus housing is separated into three distinct categories: Bachelors, Family
Compounds, and Guest Houses. Each category is equipped with 24-hour
surveillance to ensure you and your family’s well-being.

1.7.1 Bachelor Dormitories:

For younger denim enthusiasts, there are bachelor dormitories. They are
designed to accommodate over 2000 inhabitants with stunning views of central
courtyard.

1.7.2. Family Compounds:

The campus offers various medium to large sized homes to accommodate entire
families that have decided to relocate to unique neighborhood. These houses
include fully functional kitchens as well as spacious gardens to enjoy evenings.

1.7.3 Guest Houses:

Customized guesthouses boast multiple rooms, a fully functional kitchen, as well
as a communal area for all guests.

1.8 School:
The Crescent School, crowned jewel is a community set-up comprising of an
educational curriculum apt for great quality education for kids.

Crescent school is educating more than a thousand students per annum to

nurture and mold them to become professionals in today’s world. These students
are exposed to state-of-the-art science and computer labs, sports and activities,
medical facility and vaccinations.

1.9 Structure:
Structure is divided into 8 zones which are further divided into divisions,
departments and sections.

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All the zones are linked and reporting to Managing Director Mr. Suleman Dawood.
However, Engineering is the only division which has no zone but directly linked to
MD. The overall company is guided by Chief Executive Officer Mr. Nasir Shafi.

1.10 Organogram (Authority Distribution):

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1.10.1 Organogram:

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Section-II

2-DENIM

2.1 Introduction:
The story of jeans begins in the mid19th century simultaneously in two European
cities:

Nîmes in France, where the fabric itself was created, the so-called “Serge de
Nîmes” which led to the name “denim”.

Genoa in Italy, where the color comes from, called in French “Bleu de Gênes”
which led to the expression “blue jeans”. The fabric and color come together to
become the jeans, denim.

Definition: “ Denim is an indigo-dyed cotton twill fabric in

which the weft passes under two or more warp fibers. ”

2.2 Denim Fabric:

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and
white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel
to the selvage). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads).
Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended
with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today,
denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and
stonewashed.

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2.3 Process Flow:
The warp yarn (length-wise) used in denim fabrics is uniquely prepared for denim
manufacturing compared to conventional woven fabrics. The yarn goes through
numerous processing steps before it is placed on the weaving machine. Unlike
the warp yarn, most filling yarn (width-wise) is put onto yarn packages and
delivered directly to the weaving machine where it is inserted into the fabric
without any further preparation in the same manner as conventional woven
fabrics. The following flow chart reveals the necessary steps in the manufacture
of denim fabrics, beginning with the production of the warp yarns used.

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Section-III

3-DEPARTMENTS

3.1 Textile Zone:

In textile there are three major departments which are listed below

1. Spinning
2. Dyeing
3. Weaving

3.1.1 Spinning:
Spinning is the process of making fibrous materials into yarn threads. It is
reduction of mass per unit length. There are two kind of Spinning:

1. Ring spinning
2. Open End spinning

In CBL, Ring Spinning is performed. Because it has several advantages over Open
end spinning. With Ring Spinning we get finer yarns, stronger and more uniform.
Various steps involved in spinning are listed below:

3.1.1.1 Blow Room:

Three major operations are done on cotton in the blow room which are Blowing,
Beating and cleaning it from the seeds. Raw cotton is fed in the form of bales and
the above-mentioned operations are performed on those bales.

3.1.1.2 Carding:
This section has 18 carding machine and the output of this section is silver. 18
cards or silver drums are produced after each hour.

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3.1.1.3 Drawing Section:
The input of drawing section is the silver produced by the carding machine. Six
silver are fed at one time in drawing section and the output is one unit which is
also called as silver.

3.1.1.4 Simplex:
Simplex convert the output of drawing section that is silver and convert in too
much finer product called roving. Cycle time is around one hour and at a time,
120 silver are fed which are converted in to 120 roving bobbins.

3.1.1.5 Ring Spinning:

It converts the output of simplex in to yarn.it has series of bobbins mounted on
the frame. The total production per machine is 2460 yarn bobbins.

3.1.1.6 Auto Coning:

The main function of auto coning is to transfer the yarn into bigger package and
also do clearing.

3.1.1.7 Warping
In warping there are two types known as ball warping and direct warping. The
total capacity is 528 spindles for auto cone and speed is 500 rpm.

3.1.2 Dyeing:
Yarn is dyed in this department. Dying is carried out in two different ways

3.1.2.1 Topping: Sulphur is coated on the yarn after indigo.

3.1.2.2 Bottoming: Sulphur is coated on the yarn before indigo
After dye finishing, following operations are performed:

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3.1.2.3 Rebeaming: After dying the yarn is directly wounded on the beaming
and then sizing is done.
3.1.2.4 Sizing: To impart smoothness and to improve strength sizing is done
using starch and some other chemical like acrylics binder and softeners.

3.1.3 Weaving:
After completing above process the yarn goes to the weaving section. Denim
fabrics are woven by interlacement of indigo dyed warp and grey weft. The
sequence or order of interlacement of warp and weft may be varied in order to
produce different denim weave designs. Although the traditional denim is a 3/1
RHT warp faced fabrics, a variety of denim fabric are made with different weave
designs, such as 2/1 twill weave etc. Denim usually involves coarser yarns.
The denim fabric produced in CBL is as 60% Export and 40% In- House. The major
countries where CBL export its denim fabric are Bangladesh and Sri Lanka.

In CBL, weaving department has:

• 3 Warper
• 10 Re-Beaming
• 2 Sizing
• 102 Looms (74 SULZER, 28 Air Jet)

SULZER: It uses Projectile for weft processing.

AIR JET: Uses nozzles which throw air to insert weft.

3.2 Finishing Department:

Various finishes are used for denim to improve or attain various properties. A
proper finishing process is essential for the performance and the appearance of
denim fabric. These processes are:

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Finishing of Denim has different process listed below:

• Singeing • Stenter
• Pad Steam • Dyeing
• Mercerize • Sanfor

3.2.1 Singeing:
Singeing is a process that uses a gas flame to burn off the fluff or tiny hairs on the
surface of denim fabric. This process burns away surface material that makes the
fabric look fuzzy. It is carried out to obtain a cleaner and smoother appearance of
denim fabrics. This process enhances the color, and the fabric wettability is also
increased. The main purpose of singeing is to burn the protruding fibres from the
yarn and/or fabric surface. To burn the protruding fibres, energy must be
supplied. The supplied energy must be just enough to burn just the protruding
fibres, while keeping the firmly bound fibres intact. This is achieved by allowing
time of contact between the singeing flame and the fabric to practically a fraction
of a second. As the temperature of the flame is too high (around 1300°C), any
regulation of this temperature is out of the question. However, metering and
control of thermal energy of the flame is essential for the safe but effective
burning off process.

J Scary Pre-
Batcher
inlet burshing

Burner J Scary
Batcher
section outlet

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3.2.2 Singeing in CBL:
Two singeing machines are present in CBL.

Three workers are present on singeing machine.

First is machine operator to operate the gas singeing machine.

Second is helper which is cleaning the gas singing machine. Fabric roll is open
paced on its position for stitching

Third worker stitch the fabric for singeing by using overlock stitch machine.

Three shifts are working in CBL in 24 hours, one shift contain 8 hours for example
time start from 6am to 2pm.

3.2.3 Pad Steam:

This is continuous process in which the fabric in open width is padded with
solution and is then steamed. Continuous roller steamer is used for diffusion of
reactive, vat, Sulphur and direct dyes into cellulosic fibers in an atmosphere of
heat and moisture that is created by saturated steam injected into the steamer.

Objectives:

• De-sizing
• Denim over dye
• Washing
• Mercerization/Caustisization

inlet Squeezing
Batcher Recipe tank Steamer
J Scary Roller

Washing
pH Tank Dryers Batcher
Chamber

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3.2.4 De-sizing:
It is the process which is done to remove size material and to improve fabric
comfort. Done along with Mercerization, in Pad-Steam continuous machine.

3.2.5 Over-dyeing:
Traditional indigo dyed denim fabric can be over dyed as part of a finishing
process. The preparation requirements for overdyeing are the same as for any
other dyeing process. Usually both sides of denim fabric are dyed to attain special
look and appearance.

3.2.6 Mercerizing:
Mercerization is an industrial process involving sodium hydroxide NaOH (50%),
wetting agents and sequestering agents for denim fabrics to increase the luster
and dye ability. In addition to increasing the fabric luster, it also improves its
strength. It is an optional process as it significantly increases the cost of denim.
Denim fabric pass through face down.

3.2.7 Washing:
Second part of mercerization machine is used for washing, here excess NaOH is
removed from fabric and neutralize the fabric pH using CH3COOH. Detergent is
also used here.

For this purpose, we use 3 wash boxes.

• 1st wash box has normal temperature, but due to turbo washer its
temperature exceeds.
• 2nd wash box has temperature up to 90℃ to balance.
• After this there is SARK (suction with high pressure to remove starch and
unwanted particles from fabric surface)
• 3rd, wash box is used to neutralize the pH of fabric
• After this there is SARK again.
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3.2.8 Stenter:
Stenter machine is used for heat setting. Fabric width is affected after de-sizing
and mercerization therefore in stenter machine we achieve again required width.
Lycra is melted so that we can achieve required width. The machine has 8
chambers here in CBL.

Resins can also be applied here if required. For that, GASTON system is installed
here.

3.2.9 Sanfor:
Sanforizing is the process of controlling the warp shrinkage and
Skewness/Bowness according to our requirements. In sanforizing, denim fabric
passes through face down.

3.2.10 Packing:
At the end, packaging of denim fabric is done. This can be done in various ways.

2.3 Apparel Zone

2.3.1 Cutting:
The first stage in cutting and ultimately producing fabric is to make pattern of it
on computer called as the CAD model of the sample. Allowances are added in the
Model as calculated which include sewing and fabric shrinkage allowance. After
Doing all this a soft form of the model is created and the plotted on a paper using
plotter.

2.3.1.1 Marker making: Process order is required to start a marker. It is done

both manually and automatically.

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2.3.1.2 Spreading:
The fabric is spreaded on a big table using spreader in the form of layer. Two
types of spreading are done.

1. Face up
2. Face to face.

In face up the efficiency is lower because the spreader return cycle is idle while
face to face has a much higher efficiency in which the fabric is stacked over each
other. After spreading cutting is done there are two types of cutter used in CBL

1. BULLMER Cutter
2. GERBER Cutter

The cumulative capacity of the whole section is 30,000 garments per day. Label
printing is also done in cutting section.

2.3.2 Stitching:
There are nine lines which are working here in CBL including factory one and two.
The main sections of stitching are as follows:

1. Small pot 4. Assembly 3

2. Back Section 5. Assembly
3. Front Section
Total parts of jeans stitched are as follows:

1. Front 7. Waist band

2. Back 8. Loops
3. Pocket Bag 9. Back pocket
4. Facing 10. Yoke
5. Right Fly 11. Coin pocket/Watch pocket
6. Left Fly
Each operation is performed by separate operator. Initial quality check is done by
the operator.

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2.4 Product development (PD):

PD is an important department in any industry. In textile industry PD department

work with sampling, development and collection of new products. PD produces
the sample on customer’s demand, after approval from the customer the specific
name and number is given to the product.

Our planning depends on customer order how a customer gives order sometimes,
customer send us a sample and order us to make garments as like as sample.
Sometimes, we send some samples to customers for fabric selection for dye
vintage look, whiskers, trimming and scraping these are all parameters which are
involve in Denim making process. Levi’s is a famous brand which deal with CBL for
denim production. Levi’s selected all the parameters which are involved in Denim
making process and then place order. PD satisfy their customers then approved
sample are sent for bulk production in production department.

Steps involves in placing and manufacturing of order:

• Customer places the order.

• Marketing department approve this order and send the order to PPC. (In
Short it makes a contract between industry and customer)
• PPC done calculation for the order manufacturing. (Like raw material,
time, labour, price etc)
• The time taken to complete this order is adjusted according to customer
requirement and plant capacity.
• After the paperwork, order is started to manufacture in bulk.
• During the production quality is assured by Quality department.
• Then prepared order is ready for shipment after approval of QC
department.
• After delivery of production, final testing is done by customer and then
according to contract payment is done.

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2.4.1 Machines in P.D Washing Department:
2.4.1.1 WASHERS:
8 front loading sampling machines, details are as follow:

2.4.1.2 DRYERS:
P.D Washing has 5 dryer’s details are given below:

2.4.1.3 SPRAY CHAMBER:

1 spray chamber having capacity of 4 spray at a time

2.4.1.4 Other machines:

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Section: III

3.Washing
Washing is a process that is done in denim garments for increasing its value. It
also makes the garment comfortable for the users. Denim without a wash is not
always user-friendly. Washing increases the outlook of denim garments added
extra value to the customer. A better-washed product ensures a higher standard
of denim. The purpose of washing varies and the outlook of denim also varies
because of different washing methods.

3.1 Types of Denim Washing Process:

There are two widely used process of washing denim. One is a dry process and
the other is a wet process.

26
3.2 Denim Washing Flowchart

27
3.3 Rigid Inventory
The garments from stitching are received at Rigid Inventory according to Cut No.
Each cut consists of different bundles. Bundles can be in different numbers such
as 4, 6, 12, 16 etc. in each cut. Each bundle has different number of Rigid
Garments such as it can be a bundle of 16 garments according to Size and Order
vise. All the data about the garments received is noted on a sheet called Core
Sheet.

A Turning Machine is also available here in the Rigid Inventory in CBL where each
garment is turned from inside to outside if and only if required for the purpose of
Dyeing.

The Rigid Inventory then makes a Rigid Report and pass the Rigid Garments to the
W.I.P (Work In Progress).

From where it goes to the Staging Unit.

3.4 Staging
This is the area where the garments are weighed
according to weight required for the production. It is
called Load after weighing it. The loads can be of 80,
100 or 120 kg depending upon the cut. There are
almost 155 garments in one Load. After weighing the
load, a worker carries it to the production unit on a
trolley. Each load is of different cut, of different order,
of different bundles and of different sizes. Bundle
Identifications cards of different colors are also
assigned here to each trolley of load. Here each
bundle is given a Batch Number and the data is
recorded in a register for each load.

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3.5 Garment Dry Process GDP
SPI: We observe the results of Dry Process based on a term called SPI. Which
stands for Shape, Placement and Intensity. These three things are checked for
every operation performed in Dry Process.

3.5.1 Whiskers/Moustaches
Whiskers are worn out lines generated by natural wearing around the hip to crotch
area and at the back of knees, and they are formed in different strengths and
shapes depending on the design of the garment.
Types of Whiskers:
• Front Whiskers • Chevrons
• Back Whiskers • Knee Stars
To obtain whiskers, the products dressed in pattern and trace of pattern under the
product will be drawn with sandpaper to produce different types of whiskers.

3.5.1.1 Manual Whisker

This whisker is done in a manual way with the help of a pattern. On denim
garments, we have done it by abrasive paper.
Material Needed for Manual whisker
1. Pattern
2. Abrasive paper
For work, a worker uses different types of abrasive paper. Like –
i. P-320 (for very rough surface) iv. P-800 (for regular surface)
ii. P-400 (for rough surface) v. P-1000 (for fine surface)
iii. P-600 (for less rough surface)
Also having 2 colors
i. White (for light weight fabric)
ii. Red (for heavy weight fabric)

29
The Procedure of Manual whisker
• Put the whisker pattern into the garments.
• Then rub the pattern area according to standard intensity by abrasive paper
• Quality check

3.5.1.2 Laser Whisker

This whisker is done by a laser machine. Here, garments specific areas are burned
by imposing laser with high intensity. After wash, the burned indigo color will be
removed and the whisker effect will be visible.
The Procedure of Laser Whisker
• Making the design by Photoshop/illustrator
• Put the garments on the machine surface
• Set the intensity of the burn
• Burn the garments
• Quality check
Required Equipment’s for Laser Whisker
1. Laser Machine
2. Leather hand gloves and goggles for safety.

Note: Pattern shape and strength of whiskers must be similar in both legs of the
jeans

30
3.5.2 Scraping:
The aim of scraping is to remove locally the indigo dyestuff from specific parts of
the garment by using metal emeries or sandpapers of different numbers ranging
from 200 to 400, Red or White. The faded effect is nicely visible after wash.
The sandpaper abrasion creates an obsolete image on the denim garment. On the
garments, the abradable parts are the regions that are exposed to friction during
daily life.
There are two types of scraping:
a) Local body scrap. In it only following portions of garment are scraped:
• Front thigh & back seat
• Upper back knee.
• Upper pocket side.
b) Full body scrap. In it whole of the garment is scrapped.
Scraping is done on inflated vertical or horizontal rubber mannequins or mandrels
for better effect.
The blown-up dummy legs (inflated rubber mannequins) are dressed in untreated
jeans and the workers scrap thighs and crotches or desired parts manually.
Working Procedure of Hand Scrapping
• Specify the area
• Put the garments into dummy
• Scrapping with emery paper
• Quality checking

Note: Scraping must be equally applied on both legs of the jeans.

31
3.5.3 PP Spray:
Spraying is different from the exhaustion method by
applying the chemical only to the surface and to the
desired parts of the denim garment. Air pressurized
hand guns are used to spray the chemical on the
surface of garments, which are placed on inflated
vertical mannequins (Dummy Legs).

Potassium permanganate is used to partially create

contrast and a variety of effects. It is applied especially
on sanded parts of the garment to increase the
contrast. After this process, they are neutralized,
rinsed, softened and dried.

3.5.4 PP Sponging or Buffy:

Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing PP Spray is being done on denim
garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo
color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on
desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done
in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme
or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are
many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by
cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges,
straw bunches or other objects are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is
that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel dipped in
solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces random effect
and looks great with dark washes in contrast.

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it
followed by immediate neutralization.

32
3.5.5 Ripping/Destroy
Destroy the fabric by using grinder. This process is done by a pen grinding
machine which destroys only the warp yarns of the fabrics or garments. The
destroy look on the garments is best viewed after washing.

3.5.6 Dennison Area

This is the area where Tagging Pin (Tacking), Cable Tie and Twist operations are
performed.

33
3.5.7 Tagging pin/ Tacking
This process is done by tagging small plastic tag
pins to hold small gathers of fabric around pockets,
hips, seams and bottom hems to get strong
contrast due to less exposure of the folded parts to
mechanical rubbing and chemicals.

After washing, the tags are snipped, and color

contrasts and 3D effects are obtained in these
areas. Variations are provided by using different
lengths of tag pins.

Note: Using thick tags leaves large holes on the fabric surface after the washing
processes, on the other hand, finer tags may break off during washing and the
contrast appearance may not be achieved.

3.5.8 Tie (Cable or Pin) Washing Process:

Tie washing is done by tiding the garments and then
wash and we will get an uneven crease look on
garments. For tie washing, at first, we have to tie the
garments according to the standard. Then the washing
is started. Basically, for this wash, we do enzyme or
bleach wash. After washing we cut the tie and then
make the shade according to standard. When the
garment is being tied then the sharp edges come to
machine contact and the effects come.

Problems of Tie Wash

• If the tie is not properly done, the effect will come unevenly.
• If timing is not matched then effects will come more or less.

34
3.5.9 LASER technology:
LASER stands for Light Amplification
by Stimulated Emission of
Radiations. The energy provided by
a laser beam has two effects on
indigo dyed fabrics. On one side, the
thermal effect of the laser
sublimates indigo dyestuff,
bleaching to a certain extent those
areas of contact. From another side,
this thermal effect is burning the
surface of the fabric, eliminating
colored fibers and revealing the
undyed yarn/fiber below. The superficial burning of the fibers explains why after a
laser marking, instead of a white area, a brown layer is found (this is then removed
in a rinsing). The dyeing process of denim yarns can include additional dyestuffs to
indigo, such as sulphur dyes (commonly sulphur black). Each dye has its own
molecular structure and so reaction to the thermal effect of the laser will be
different for each dyestuff. The use of laser in the laundry is in fact not new. Initially,
laser treatments were seen more as a tool to create new and novel effects in denim
garments, such as local printing, tattoo images, etc.

Important Terms:

• DPI (Dots Per Inch) • Intensity (1011 Watt)

• Pixel Time • Threshold Color
• Exposure Time • Speed

3.5.9.1 Laser Machines in CBL

Two types of machines are present here in CBL.

• FLEXI (Horizontal) • TWIN (Vertical)

35
 Effect of resolution and pixel time on color fading

Laser marking is a computer-controlled process for denim fading. This technique enables
patterns to be created, such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures. In one
version of this concept, a mask is used to give a desired shape to be applied to the
fabric. The laser projects through a lens system, which expands the beam. This beam is
passed through the shaped mask, which is composed of an aperture of the desired
shape, and then is deflected by a mirror to strike the textile substrate. The duration of
exposure determines the final effect on the fabric.

Comparison of laser fading with manual dry processes on denim:

• Effect quality is comparatively finer in the manual system than the laser
• Hand feel is comparatively finer in the manual system than the laser
• Hairiness is comparatively less in the laser system
• Production cost is higher in the laser
• Work space required is less in the laser system
• Design consistency is higher in the laser system
• Tearing strength is higher in laser-faded denim (although it may differ in the
case of stretch denim)
• Rejection rate is 0% in the laser system whereas it around 5% in the manual
system
• Staff ratio required for laser to manual = 1:3 (approximately)
• Power requirement is higher in the laser system (approximately 7.5 kW)
• Laser beam is harmful to skin and eyes

23
3.5.10 Crinkle
This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of a specific area and
the effect is more visible at the front and back knee area.

3.5.10.1 2D Crinkle

This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of a specific area and
the effect is more visible at the front and back knee area. In this process, the two-
dimensional effect is produced.

Process flow of 2D Crinkle

• Applying Resin
• Garment Placement on
machine
• Squeeze the garments
• Keep it up to retention time
(Curing)
• Quality Check.

3.5.10.2 3D Crinkle

This effect is found by the special treatments of garments. By this system, the 3-
dimensional effect is produced. The final is more visible after washing the
garments.

The procedure of 3D Crinkle

• Apply resin
• Placement into dummy
• Make 3D crinkle as per standard
• Pre-cure the garments at 90 degrees C
• Taken out the garments from the machine
• Put into curing oven for full cure
• Quality check
37
3.5.11 Resin:
Resin is high efficiency textile resin based on etherified dimethylol glyoxal
monoureine urea. Resin is used for the creation of semi-permanent creases in
denim and other cellulose fabrics.

Resin application: Resin is applied on finished garment where wrinkle has to be

made then wrinkles are created manually or semi automatically. Following two
types of resin application systems were observed:

3.5.11.1 Garment-Dip Method

In the garment-dip method, garments are impregnated with a resin solution,

extracted to about 65 percent wet pick-up and then tumble dried to 8-10 percent
moisture content.

3.5.11.2 Spray Method

The spray method is a latest technology of wrinkle finishing, the resin is applied by
spraying it onto the garment during tumbling in an enclosed rotational device, or
on spray booth where garments being hanged to inflated balloons & sprayed a
measured quantity of resin solution. There are three types of wrinkles formed here.

• Press wrinkle
• Oven wrinkle
• 3D wrinkle

3.5.12 Faults of dry process:

1. Heavy/less 7. Thick/Thin
2. Wrong sand paper 8. Panel to Panel variation
3. Pleats / cut mark 9. Missing Operations
4. Thread mark 10. Broken Stitch
5. Placement up/down 11. Damage
6. Wrong pattern 12. Excess/Less Feathering

38
3.6 Garment Wet Process GWP
Garment wet processing consist of two washings named as, First wash and
Second wash. This type of process is done at the wet conditions. There are so
many stages in the wet process.

3.6.1 Direct Wash/ Rinse Wash

Sometimes there is a wash which only includes rinsing.
It’s called Direct Wash or Rinse Wash. We don’t have to
double dip the garments. Rinse wash is done only by
water and slight detergent and backstainer. This shade
is dark and not so much different from its raw denim.
This process has some problems like color fastness to
dry rubbing, wet rubbing and washing fail. This wash is
the combination of rinse wash and softener wash. Used
for Sulphur dyed Black jeans. For this, the garments are
turned from inside to outside and then the softener is
applied so that the black color doesn’t fade at all. For
rinse wash we don’t give temperature in the washer.

The purpose of Direct Wash

• To remove dust, oil spot, and other impurities.

• To make the garments soft.

Problems of Direct Wash

• Sometimes pocket staining may occur.

• Colorfastness may be failing.
• Tone changes if wash time is increased.

40
3.6.2 First wash:
• Soaking/Desizing
• Enzyme/Stone wash
• Cleaning (by Rinsing)
• De-Rocking (If stones were used before)
• Bleaching
• Neutralization
• Hydro (Hydro Extractor)
• Dry (Gas or Steam Dryer)
After first wash rigid garments is send for PP spray or Sponging and then it again
comes for second wash (if required).

Note: For first wash, the washer is termed as Tumbler and the process as
Tumbling.

3.6.2.1 Desizing:
Process of removing starch (size martial) from garments to give softening effect for
washing process. The most popular method of removing starch from denim
garments is to use amylase enzyme.

This product can break down the long starch molecular chains (water insoluble)
into smaller molecules (water soluble) which can be more easily washed away. The
removal of starch from the fabric being desized can also usually release some
quantities of indigo into the bath. Therefore, a neutral pH nonionic surfactant (Anti
back stainer) is used for suspending loose dye in the water, to prevent redeposition
of indigo dye molecules onto the garments as well as to aid penetration of the
desizing liquor into the interior of the fibres. It is also important to follow the
desizing bath with a hot water rinse.

desize at after desizing RPM27 for

filling water drain
50℃ drain 1minute

41
3.6.2.2 Enzyme Wash:
Enzyme wash also known as “Bio-wash” which is a technique involving the use of
enzyme to produce soft denim. It also has an effect on the color properties but
the change is slight. The enzymes used in washing are Cellulase. Cellulase
enzymes are natural proteins, which are used in denim garment processing to get
stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing
the use of pumice stone. Due to the disadvantages of using pumice stones, such
as
• Machine damage
• blocking of the drainage system
• difficulty in removing pumice-stone residues
• excessive damage to garment hems and seams
• large amount of stone required for small batch
Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fibre, leaving the interior
of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present on the surface layer of fibre.

So, the alternative methods for stonewashing were developed. Cellulose enzymes
were introduced in the 1980s as a denim-washing, aid to achieve a faded and
abraded look similar to that provided by pumice stones. Cellulose works by
loosening the indigo dye on the denim in a process known as 'bio stonewashing'.
A small dose of enzyme can replace several kilograms of pumice stones.

42
Functions of Enzymes:
• Catalyze enzymes can be used to work specifically on residual peroxide as an
anti-oxidant breaking it down into natural elements of water and oxygen
without adversely affecting the fibres or dyes.
• Develop ‘’Bio-polishing’’ effect on denim in echo-friendly way
• Enzyme improves the ‘’Anti-pilling’’ properties.
• It attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.
• It increases the color fastness and rubbing fastness properties.
• Achieve high-low abrasion to produce fading effect in sewing area.
• It just hydrolysis the cellulose, first it attacks the projecting fiber then the yarn
portion inside fabric and faded affect is produced.
• It reduces GSM of the garment.
• Neutral enzyme is used for Dark shade enzyme wash because it comes fading
effect slowly.
• It produces buyer loving soft feel in use.
• Acid enzyme is used for medium /light shade Enzyme wash of denim skirt
because it comes enzyme effect quickly than neutral enzyme.

3.6.2.3 Stone wash:

Stone washing of denim fabric gives ‘used’ or ‘vintage’ look on the garments. This
is due to the varying degree of abrasion in the garment. Traditionally, stone
washing of denim garments is carried out with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand
and desirable look. During washing, these stones scrape
off dye particles from the surface of the yarn of the denim
fabric which shows Graining effect a faded, worn out and
brilliance effect in the denim fabric. From ring dyeing of
denim fabric and heavy abrasion during stone washing,
the fading is more apparent but less uniform. Stone

44
washing makes the denim garments suppler so that they fit comfortably. To get the
desired washed effect, the stone should be of proper hardness, shape and size. For
heavy weight denim fabric, large and hard stones are suitable and last longer.
Similarly, smaller and softer stones are suitable for lightweight denim fabrics

Volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added during washing as abradants. The color
fading is more apparent but less uniform. The degree of color fading depends on
the washing time (60–120 min), stone ratio (weight of stones relative to weight of
the garment) (0.5: 1–3:1), size of stones (diameter: 1–7 cm), liquor ratio (∼10:1)
and garment load.

Parameters:
Temperature: Temperature is given 50℃ to activate the enzyme

Effect of stone ratio: stone ratio below 0.5:1, no significant color fading effect in
the denim garments is noted. When the stone ratio is high, the color fading effect
becomes enhanced. However, too high a stone ratio may cause severe abrasion
leading to fabric damage.

Effect of stone size: Effect of stone size on the color fading effect. It is noted that
the smaller the stone size, the better is the color fading effect. In addition, small
stones can provide an even and uniform abrasion effect, but the color contrast
produced is not good when compared with large stones.

Effect of stone washing time: color fading effect under the influence of stone
washing time. It is after 90 min, there is no further increase in the color fading in
denim garments.

Stone washing of denim fabric with pumice stones has some

disadvantages and limitations:
• Stones may cause wear and tear of the fabric.
• may damage the washing machine from abrasion of the stone with fabric or
machinery parts.

45
• It may also create the problem of environmental disposition of waste of the
grit produced by the stones.
• Increase the labor cost required to remove stone dust from finished garments.
• Denim garments are required to be washed several times for complete
removal of the stones.
• The stone washing process may cause back staining and redeposition.
• The process is nonselective.

PUMICE stone:
• Pumice Stone is a volcanic rock that consists of
highly vesicular or perforated volcanic glass.
Pumice Stone is created when super-heated and
highly pressurized rock is violently erupted from a
volcano. The unusual foamy configuration of
pumice happens because of simultaneous rapid
cooling and rapid de-pressurization. Pumice Stone float on water.
• Pumice Stone commonly originated from Indonesia and Turkey.
• Different sizes of Pumice Stones are available, such as 2-5 cm which known
as small Pumice Stone. 3-5 cm which known as medium size Pumice Stone.
And 5-7cm which is known as Large size Pumice Stone.
• The hardness of Pumice Stone in Mohr scale is 6. The melting temperature
of Pumice Stone is 15000˚ C and pH value is 8 and the density is
2.313g/cm3.

Note:
• We used just enzyme wash when we need little bit graining effect.
• We need medium graining effect we used stones.
• We used enzyme + stones for high graining effect.

Stone
filling RPM 27
wash at drain drain
water for 1m
50℃

46
3.6.2.4 Bleaching:
What is Bleach?

Bleach is a chemical that removes colors from the garments during bleach
washing or bleach wash. Common chemical bleaches include household chlorine
bleach, a solution of approximately 4–6% sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), and
oxygen bleach, which contains hydrogen peroxide or a peroxide-releasing
compound such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, sodium persulfate,
tetrasodium pyrophosphate, or urea peroxide together with catalysts and
activators.

Two types of bleaching agent used in garments washing.

• Sodium hypochlorite
• Hydrogen per oxide

Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCL):

This type of bleaching is used for indigo dye. Because it is strong bleaching agent.
In the case of indigo dye, we used sodium hypochlorite because indigo dye bonding
is too strong for breakage of this bonding we must use sodium hypochlorite bleach.
Hypochlorite (HOCl) is an active bleaching agent. Increased concentration of
sodium hypochlorite can effectively accelerate the color fading effect. The active
chlorine content in sodium hypochlorite has an optimum value to achieve the best
color fading effect. If the concentration of sodium hypochlorite is higher than this
optimum value, no further improvement in color fading is obtained. The
recommended active chlorine content is 12% when concentration of sodium
hypochlorite is about 40 g/L. In addition, increase in temperature increases the
bleaching reaction to fade the color from denim garments. The optimum
temperature is 70 °C; temperature higher than 70 °C does not enhance color fading
effect. The pH value used for bleach washing also affects color fading. When pH =
7 or pH < 7, the bleaching reaction is very fast, and the degree of color fading is

47
very difficult to control. When pH = 9–10 (adjusted by adding alkali), the bleaching
effect can be controlled by the bleaching time.

Hydrogen per oxide(H2O2):

This type of bleaching is used for sulfur dye garments. Because it is not strong
oxidizing agent .in the case of sulfur dye we used hydrogen peroxide bleach.
Because in the case of sulfur dye bonding is not strong like indigo dye therefore,
we used weak bleaching agent. If we used strong bleaching agent, then sulfur dye
will bleed. Nascent [o] is an active bleaching agent.

Note:
• We must neutralize the fabric with sodium metabisulphite after bleaching.
It is also called Anti Chlore Treatment, if we used Hypochlorite for
bleaching.
• Proper Neutralization of bleaching process is very essential in order to get
rid of fabric strength loss, bad smell from garment, yellowing & skin
irritation etc.
• To control lycra damage we add NaOH, it controls the pH of the solution
thus not allowing NaOCl to be too much aggressive.
• To control the pH of the solution, Soda Ash is also added.
• Sometimes H2O2 can also be used for neutralization. It brings the fabric
tone towards bluish side.

Bleached

Figure 1:Flow chart of bleaching

48
Sodium Meta bi- sulphate (Na2S2O5):
• Sodium Meta bi-suphate is an inorganic compound
composed of sodium, sulfur and oxygen. It typically comes in
a white or yellowish-white crystalline powder. It easily
dissolves in water, which leaves that familiar sulfur (rotten
egg) smell.
• Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is used as a bleaching agent in pulp and textile
manufacture, as well as a reducing agent.
• Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is used in the washing plant to neutralized the
garment from potassium permanganate.

3.6.2.5 Drying:
Garments are dried here by using a gas dryer or steam dryer. Types of dryer
selection depend on the desired shade. Here, it should be noted that the gas
dryer is perfect for reddish shade and the steam dry is for bluish shade. After
drying, all the garments should be sent to the dry process section for P.P spray.

3.6.3 Second wash

• Neutralization (if it was PP sprayed)
• Random wash
• Acid Wash
• Bio Polish
• Bright wash (Special White)
• Tinting
• Softener

49
3.6.3.1 Random washing:
Random wash is also called Rag Random. It is used for those garments which dyed
with indigo dye. Rags are added in a solution of a Potassium Permanganate
KMnO4. After the rags are soaked in KMnO4 and the excess liquor is removed. Then
add the garment in machine then give it some time and take one garment out check
the result this process is continue until required result achieve. Paneling effect is
produced by random wash. Indigo dye removed from garment where rags touch.
When the result is achieved, then remove the liquid and give simple wash. After
simple washing, drain the liquor and neutralize it.

Rags: These are small pieces of knitted wool fabric.

They have a very high pick up when they are dissolved in
the chemical solution. For random wash we use white
color rags.
Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4):
This compound is the salt of permanganic acid, HMnO4.
It is an unstable acid and exists only in solution.
Potassium permanganate forms dark purple lustrous
crystals giving deep pink color in solution. Its solubility in
water at 200c is only about 7%, while dissolves more at
higher temperature (25% at 63oc). It is a strong oxidizing
agent and oxidizes the indigo dye from denim. Its origin
from China.

3.6.3.2 Acid wash:

Acid wash is done by using Potassium Permanganate KMnO4 and Stone. At first,
we have to dip the stone in potash solution and then they are rotated in the
washer with Fillers for like 30 seconds to 1 minute depending upon how much
wet the stones are. Fillers are old cloths used to soak up extra chemical off the
stones so that they don’t stain the garments. The stones are then taken out and

50
put in another washer with garments in it. Otherwise, if we put the garments in
the same washer where the stones were put at first there would be a lot of
staining because the chemical remains on the drum inside the washer that can
easily stain the garments. As a result of acid wash, we will get uneven look on
garments.

Note for Random/Acid Wash:

• If we used new rags, their effect is low as compared to the old rags.
• New rags must be first washed with anti-back stainer to increase its
absorbency.
• Use fillers to soak up the stone’s extra chemicals.
• A plastic sheet is placed above the stones and then the garments are put on to
it. But when the machine is about to start the workers remove that plastic
sheet instantly. Otherwise, the garments on top of the stones will be in direct
contact and due to weight of other garments on top of that, those garments in
direct contact will get different effect as compared to others.
• Fabric must be neutralized after random/acid wash.

Figure 2:Random wash

3.6.3.3 Ozone treatment:

Ozone typically acts as a mild bleaching agent as well as a sterilising agent. In this
technique process is carried out in a closed chamber by using ozone gas.

51
The advantages of this method are:

• a minimum loss of strength.

• it is a simple method that is environmentally friendly.
• Ozone brings up a pale appearance on the garments. It takes the tone of
the garment which are indigo dyed to the green side. And for vat dyed, it
takes the tone towards redder side.

Recipe:
Gas power(ozone) : 100%

Time : 5 minutes

NOTE: This process is used after KMnO4 spray then neutralize the fabric.

3.6.3.4 Tinting:
After denim jeans have been faded, they are dyed with very light color (0.001% or
0.002% yellow or pink or any required color). This dyeing process is called tinting.

A very small amount of dye is used in tinting. The process changes the hue/tone of
indigo. Such as to achieve the tones like Greenish, Bluish, Yellowish, Redder or
Brownish. Tinting gives garments a vintage and muddy look. This process takes
from 5 to 15 min and for better results it is followed by dye fixing and cleanup of
the superficial dye. Dyeing is done on very light shades of indigo, grey denim and
ready for dyeing denim.

There are various types of dyes that can be used for tinting:

(1) direct dyes (3) pigment colors

(2) reactive dyes (4) Sulphur dyes.

52
The reasons of tinting are:

• To give vintage look.

• For making new fashion designs.
• To give the finished garments a better
appearance.
• For matching our shade according to the
standard.

Recipe:
Dye color: On required result.

Salt: Used for exhaustion.

Note: Tinting is applied only on garments, not in fabric or yarn.

3.6.3.5 Softeners:
The application of softeners at the end of the dye cycle improves the appearance,
hand, and ease of pressing of the dyed garments after tumble drying. Durable
press appearance ratings for 100% cotton woven garments after garment dyeing
and tumble drying are usually around 1.0-1.5. The addition of a polyethylene
softener in the final bath after dyeing generally increases this rating to 1.5-2.0.
Use of a softener formulation with 2% polyethylene and 2% amino-functional
silicone in the final rinse bath typically results in appearance ratings of 2.0-2.5,
and ratings as high as 3.0 have been achieved for knit garments. As with all
cationic softener systems, yellowing during drying may be a problem, and care
must be taken to avoid unacceptable shade changes on white and pastel shades.
Silicone softeners have a firm place in final finishing for a very important reason.
A piece of fabric which has been subjected to pretreatment, dyeing and fixing
processes is almost impossible to be appealing to anyone without taking a
corrective measure of handle. The Application of silicone softeners turns hard and
a brittle fabric into a soft pleasant textile with which the buyer can expect a high

23
degree of wearing comfort. Silicone have wide spread applications in the textile
industry from fiber, yarn and fabric production to final product finishing. Their
distinctive chemistry imparts a range of characteristics. A variety of silicon e
technologies have application in the textile industry.

They include:

• Polydimethylsiloxanes.

• Amido, Amino Functional Silicones.

• Methyl Hydrogen Silicones.

• Epoxy Functional Silicones.

• Hydroxy functional Silicones.

• Silicone Polyethers

• Epoxy Polyether Silicones

3.6.3.6 Bio-Polishing:
Bio polishing is a finishing process that improves fabric quality by mainly reducing
fuzziness and pilling property of cellulosic fibre. Bio-polishing is mostly done for
the abraded garments and also due to customer demand. Cellulase enzyme is
used for Bio-polishing, as cellulase degrades the cellulose, so the protruding fibers
are removed and the surface of the garment is polished.

• CeroSoft CR is used as bio-polishing cellulase enzyme in CBL.

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3.6.4 Machines used in Washing (In CBL):

Type Quantity
Tumbler:
1. Braun-145 ST OLUPSV 12
Washer:
1. Braun-600 NOLUVP 12
2. Brongo -5200 1
3. Cosmotex SP-800V 1
4. Tonello 510 EV1 9
5. Avantec-CLR 550 2
6. Derrocker – DRT 1
Hydroextractor:
1. Ellis Cooperation 1
2. Yilmak 3
Others (Eco Finish)
1. Tonello 510 LW2 2
Dryers:
1. Braun-440P-NGF 10
2. Triventa-DPG-380 3
3. Braun 1
4. Sertao 2

Ozone:
1. GFK Jenologia 2

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3.7 Finishing Department:
This department takes semi-finished garments from GDP and washing
department and does all required processes on garment to give it final shape for
packing. Working of this department starts from garment stock area. Stock area
issues garments for finishing processes on the basis of order no. and shipment
plan provided by the PPC department, priority is given to the orders which have
to be shipped earlier. Flow of garments in finishing department is given below to
provide an over view about working style of finishing department.

• Loop cutting
• Trimming
• Inside checking
• Buttons & rivets attachment
• Pressing
• General checking
• Card Attachment
• Super final checking
• Final measurement checking
• Packing

3.7.1 Loop cutting:

Loop cutting is the process of cutting extra loops which were attached in stitching
department.

3.7.2 Trimming:
Trimming section starts working after receiving garments from loop cutting
section. The process of cutting extra threads on a garment is called trimming. In
this process, threads are cut from both out and inside of the garment. A line in
charge and quality checker as well checks the garment to confirm for missing
threads. If quality checker confirms the garment as OK, then it goes to inside
checking and he / she rejects then garment goes back to rechecking.

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3.7.3 Inside checking:
Inside checking is a very important section that checks the garment completely
from inside for missing threads during trimming, stains during washing and
dyeing, small holes or cuts (raffo, filling of cuts or hole with hand stitch in such a
way that they look like a normal garment) during stitching and all stitching faults
like open seam, open fold, broken stitch, missing stitch etc. The results of this
process may be one of three; alteration, stains and raffo. In case of any stitching
fault, garment will go to alteration section; in case of stains, garment will go to
the stain removing section and in case of fabric damage like unwanted cut or
hole, garment will go to raffo section. A very important point here is that if these
faults are minor and stains are removable then garment will be OK after these
processes but if these faults are major and stains are irremovable then garment
will be rejected and go to B-2 section. This process is very important because
inside checking will not be conducted again in any next section.

3.7.4 Buttons & rivets attachment:

In this section button and rivets are attached as per customer requirement.

3.7.5 Press:
Press is the process to remove all unnecessary wrinkles and creases from the
garments to give them a good look. Before the starting of this process, quality
checker checks the measurements of randomly selected garments one by one to
see after wash trend of garments by making a specs sheet; if measurements are in
minus then during pressing those areas are stretched to accommodate that little
bit difference and if measurement are in plus then go for normal pressing because
in the final measurement section, OK pieces will be sent to packing while the
pieces with plus measurements will be sent to washing where those pieces will be
given high temperature causing contraction and again pressing will be done.
Different types of pressing are being used in industry like steam pressing, iron
pressing and top pressing,

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3.7.6 General checking:
It is the process of checking a garment from outside for its shape, stitching faults,
trim and accessories missing, bar tack missing etc. This checking is conducted on
100% by the production people and main focus is look of the garment. After
checking, checker has to attach his code # on the garment for proof that he
checked that garment.

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Section IV

4. Essential Supporting Departments

4.1 Human Resource Department (HR)

Human resources (HR) is the department within a business that is responsible for
all thing’s worker-related. That includes recruiting, vetting, selecting, hiring,
onboarding, training, promoting, paying, and firing employees and independent
contractors. HR is also the department that stays on top of new legislation guiding
how workers need to be treated during the hiring, working, and firing process.

4.1.1 HR Responsibilities
The list of tasks the HR department oversees is quite lengthy. Besides hiring and
firing, HR professionals also take care of:

• Recruiting
• Background checks
• Relocation
• Training and professional development
• Employee assistance plan
• Payroll management
• Benefits administration
• Legal
• Employee relations

A well-functioning HR department ensures that a business has all of the right

employees it needs, at the right time, at an affordable cost, and it helps support
the continued development of those workers, providing the company with an
appreciating human asset.

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4.2 Production plaining and control (PPC):
The main objective of PPC is to make a complete plan for a fabric of all
departments and to conduct by keep follow-up on all procedure.

PPC makes plan for every department with respect to working capacity of
departments. PPC also make plan for regular maintenance of machines. PPC is
responsible for schedule and follow-up.

Functions of PPC:

• Production, planning and control of production function.

• Develop plans for required order.
• Calculate lead time to facilitate marketing department.
• Follow-ups with all production departments.

4.2.1 Working of PPC

PPC receive a request from marketing department regarding the development of
fabric. Then they request for the demand of yarn according to order. After the
arrival of yarn, yarn is tested in the lab. With the approval from lab yarn move for
wrapping to ball warping department. Ball warping logs send to rope dying
department for dying of rope. After rope dying rope cans send for rebeaming. After
rebeaming the beams sends to sizing department where the yarn is sized. Sized
yarn then send to weave department for weaving where fabric made. After
inspection then it sends to finishing department for finishing of fabric. After
finishing a fabric sample send to lab for testing the qualities of fabric. With the
approval from lab fabric is forward to inspection department. On the demand of
customer fabric send for stitching. After stitching it send for washing. Then fabric
ready for dispatch. On all procedure PPC keep follow-up.

By a specific formula yarn is demand. Yarn demands depend upon customer order
and 30% loss like in departments. Tolerance is about +/- 5% & +/- 3%. Yarn demand
is by warp.

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 Customer plce order Mill advice Demand For yarn

Ball warping dept.(After

Yarn arrival Yarn testing at lab
approval)

Warp beam sent to sizing

Rope dyeing dept. Re-beaming dept.
dept.

weaver send to Weave Grey fabric send to Fabric sample send to

(Loom shed) Finishing dept. testing lab

Inspection dept. (After Role header send to Despatch (After shade

approval) Washing & Shading confiration)

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4.2.2 PPC Plan for Regular Denim Article
7 Days: For yarn

5 Days: Back Process (Ball warping, Rope dyeing, sizing)

22-25 Days: For Weaving

5 Days: For Finishing

3 Days: Lab, Inspection, Packing

4.3 Marketing:
Marketing is the business process of creating relationships with and satisfying
customers. With its focus on the customer, marketing is one of the premier
components of business management.

4.3.1 The marketing concepts are:

Production Concept:
The production concept is based on the approach that a company can increase
supply as it decreases its costs. This concept works on an assumption that
customers prefer products of greater quality and price and availability doesn’t
influence their purchase decision. And so company develops a product of greater
quality which usually turns out to be expensive.

Selling Concept:
Selling concept focuses on making every possible sale of the product, regardless of
the quality of the product or the need of the customer. The selling concept
highlights that customers would buy a company’s products only if the company
were to sell these products aggressively.

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4.3.2 Process of Marketing
First, Customer contact with an agent of the company. Agent contact with
marketing department and send a file of requirements in the form of sample fabric,
yarn or specific sheet. Marketing department send sample to PD. Production
department analyze the sample. If it is already developed or like properties with
little bit difference, sample send to customer for approval.

When sample is approved by customer, a contract is generated between the

customer and company is which each and everything is discussed like delivery date,
money, quantity (meters), twill, shrinkage, strength, composition etc. After this
marketing department send a request to PPC to keep follow up on Each and
everything of complete process steps. When order is developed the last job is
shipment of order to customer. Shipment types according to customer wish.

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Section V

5.Feedback

5.1 Strength
Good aspects of Crescent Bahuman Limited.

• CBL’s big production set up is strength for the company; it never fails on
volume of the production to handle.
• Procedures and systems in CBL are state of the art, and unmatchable in the
industry. This systematic approach is strength for this company.
• Cooperative staff members
• Well organized
• Follows local, National and International laws
• Proper health and safety measurements
• No compromise on quality measurements
• Best security system
• Proper treatment of waste influents
• Prefer eco/environmentally friendly chemicals
• Best Accommodation for employees
• Cheap and excellent mess for employees.

5.2 Conclusion and Recommendations:

CBL should not lose their workers and staff with major turn over but should
create more job opportunities by more extensions as they are the assets of the
company. Similarly, this is need for restructuring the long hierarchy which is rigid
and tightly controlled structure, high specialization, rigid departmentalization,
narrow spans of control, high formalization, and limited information network

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(downward). Highly flexible and adaptable structure, non-standardized jobs, fluid
team-based structure, little direct supervision and minimal formal rules could
save time and can result better outputs if followed properly.

5.3 Remarks:
During my stay for internship in CBL, the company and it structure was observed
according to my observation skills. A lot of things have been learnt in this
organization and it is concluded that sticking to one’s motto makes one successful.
CBL has been also doing the same and it is firmly attached to its motto i.e., team
work and operation. The highly trained and cohesive team of production engineers
control all the activities running in the company.

Every department in production division from cutting department to finishing

department is fully equipped with up-to-date machinery of foreign origins. In short,
every process from the design development till the final shipment is precisely
monitored and controlled periodically, contributing to the higher productivity and
customer satisfaction. The fast growth and customer reliance is the proof of
sincerity and commitment of CBL towards their work. The company is also working
on the available opportunities and it is also keen to get more and more new
opportunities.

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