Study on gearing mechanism of tappet loom

Experiment Name: Study on gearing mechanism of tappet loom.

Theory: Tappets are generally used for heald shedding. Tappet is a type of cam to which a
rotary motion is given for the purpose of producing reciprocating motion in rods and levers by
sliding contact. When the rod is to receive a series of lifts, with intervals of rest and thus forms a
shed called tappet.

Objective:

1) To learn about gearing diagram or mechanism of tappet loom.

2) To learn about different parts related with the experiment.

3) To write a report according to this experiment.

Figure:

Related machine parts:

Motor, Motor Pulley, Machine Pulley, Gear, Crank Shaft, Bottom Shaft, Tappet
Construction of the mechanism:

1) The machine pulley connected with motor by belt.

2) Machine pulley is connected with crank shaft and crank shaft wheel.

3) Crank shaft wheel connected with bottom shaft wheel. Which rotate the bottom shaft.

Working Principle:

1) When motor rotate, the machine pulley also rotate because motor pulley connected with
machine pulley by belt.

2) Crank shaft wheel also rotate with machine pulley and crank shaft which transmit the motion to
bottom shaft wheel.

Calculation:

R.P.M of motor : 960

Motor pulley dia = 3"

Machine pulley dia = 24"

No. of teeth of crank wheel = 38

R.P.M of crank shaft = 960 X (3/24) = 120

R.P.M of bottom shaft = {960 X (3X38)} / (24 X 76 )

= 60

Result : R.P.M of crank shaft = 120

R.P.M of bottom shaft = 60

 Study on Shedding Motion

Different Types of Shedding Mechanism in Weaving Process

Shedding Mechanism

1. A process of raising and lowering of warp yarns by harnesses to make an opening for the filling
(weft) yarn to pass through.
2. The raised and lowered form of warp yarns is called shed
Three types of shedding motions (opening) are available for different type of fabrics.
They are:

 Tappet shedding
 Dobby shedding
 Jacquard shedding
Tappet Shedding
A tappet is given a rotary motion so that it depresses a follower and a lever, known respectively as the
anti-friction bowl and the treadle arrangement, by means of which the heald shaft is operated.

Scope of Tappet Shedding

 Tappet shedding uses tappets and cams to control the up/down movement of shafts.
 The bulkiness of its mechanical movement limits the loom to control up to 8 shafts (repeat not
more than 8)
 Therefore, tappet shedding is the simplest and least versatile shedding motion.

 The design is restricted to plain weave, simple twill and simple sateen or satin weave.
 Any design more than 8 shafts requires dobby loom.
 Study on Tappet Shedding

Experiment name: Study on Tappet shedding mechanism.

Objectives:
1. To know about the different parts formed this shedding.
2. To learn the mechanism of tappet shedding.
Scope of tappet shedding:
Tappets are generally used for heald shedding. Tappet, cam and wipers are names given
indiscriminately to those irregular pieces of mechanism to which a rotary motion is given for the
purpose of producing, by sliding contact, reciprocating motion in rods and levers. When the rod is to
receive a series of lifts, with intervals of rest, the piece is generally called tappet.

Types of tappet:
Various kinds of shedding tappets are used in industries.

They are of two main types:

1. Negative shedding tappet

2. Positive shedding tappet
Main parts:

1. Motor
2. Motor pulley
3. M/C pulley
4. Crank shaft
5. Crank shaft gear
6. Bottom shaft gear
7. Bottom shaft
8. Tappet
9. Connecting rod
10. Heald shaft
11. Top arm

Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Position of fixation of shedding tappet:

The shedding tappets are may be fixed in different parts of a loom.

Namely-

 Under and over the centre of heald shaft.

 Under and over one end of heald shaft.
 Out side the loom framing.
Driving of shedding tappet:
In our loom tappet gets motion in the following way. At first machine pulley gets drive by belt from
motor pulley. Then machine pulley, which is directly joined with the crank shaft, gives motion to
bottom shaft. This crank shaft gives motion to bottom shaft via gearing. Two tappets are joined with
the bottom shaft. So when bottom shaft moves then the tappets also rotate. When it gets contact with
treadle bowl it lifts the treadle levers and the heald shafts are lifted by treadle levers via links. As this
is a negative shedding tappet the heald shafts are lowered by their own weight.

Conclusion:
Tappet shedding mechanism is important for driving loom. It is also important for fabric design. By
this experiment I learn this mechanism. This would be very helpful in my future life.
 Study on Dobby Shedding

Experiment name: Study on Dobby shedding mechanism.

Objectives:

1. To know about the different parts formed this shedding.

2. 2. To learn the mechanism of dobby shedding.
Introduction:
Dobby is a shedding mechanism placed on the top of the loom in order to produce figured patterns
by using large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. Dobby is also known as a “witch or
“wizard”.

Scope of a dobby:
The scope of dobby is limited between a tappet and a jacquard. The number of shafts that can be
actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control 48 shafts (maximum).
However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied fibres. Again, for cotton and
allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these case healds are operated by jacks and
levers.

Main parts:

1. Bottom shaft
2. L-lever
3. Upright shaft
4. T-lever
5. Upper draw knife
6. Lower draw knife
7. Upper hook
8. Lower hook
9. S-lever
10. Bulk lever
11. Thumb lever
12. Jack lever
13. Healdshaft

14. Returning spring

15. Motor
16. Crank shaft
17. Pattern cylinder
18. Pattern chain
Dobby shedding mechanism:
Here a climax dobby is described to explain the dobby shedding mechanism. Climax dobby is a
double lift double jack-lever negative dobby. Here two jack levers are operated by a single bulk lever.
They are joined with the bulk lever by a timber lever and a link. The double lever is fulcrum med at a
point and is connected with S-lever.
 Dobby shedding mechanism

The S-lever controls two hooks, one upper hook and one lower hook. The hooks are controlled by
feelers. One hook is controlled by hooked feeler and other by a connecting needle. The two hooks
control two knives that are joined with a T-lever.

The T-lever is fulcrum med and is controlled by an upright shaft and an L-lever. They get motion
from motor and machine pulley. When the feeler comes in contact with a peg and when it is not in the
contact it goes down.

Conclusion:
Dobby loom is important for its use. We can use 8-12 heald frame in tappet loom but if we want to
use more heald frame for more decorative design then we should use dobby loom. This practical helps
me to know about the dobby loom and its mechanism. I think this will help me in my future life.
 Study on Jacquard Shedding

Experiment name: Study on Jacquard shedding mechanism.

Introduction:
In weaving if we want to make any design in our fabric we have to separate the warp yarn according
to our weave plan. In tappet or dobby shedding we have some limitations in shedding for a critical
design. But in jacquard shedding it can be done easily. Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the
top of the loom to produce large no of patterns by using a very large no of warp threads separately by
means of harness cords, hooks and needles. The figuring capacity of a jacquard is 1800+. It means it
can produce design with more than 1800 warp threads by controlling them individually, which is far
beyond the capacity of a dobby or tappet loom.

Main parts:

Fig: Jacquard shedding mechanism

1. Pattern chain.
2. Motor.
3. Pattern cylinder.
4. Needle.
5. Knife.
6. Harness cord.
7. Neck cord.
8. Comber board.
9. 9. Top board
10. 10. Hook.
11. Grid bar
12. Dead weight.
13. Spring board.
14. Needle board.
Shedding mechanism:
For shedding mechanism here punched card are used which is made according to design. One pattern
card is used for one pick. With these pattern cards pattern chain is made which is placed on the pattern
cylinder. On each pick pattern cylinder rotates 1/4th of the full rotation in clockwise direction. At the
same time it oscillates to and fro forming an arc.

With every 1/4th rotation a new card comes front of the cylinder in the hook side and for the two and
fro movement the needles enter inside the holes of the punch card. This selection of entrance inside
the punches of the needles is actually done according to design.

If a needle enters in the hole of the card the needle remains stationary in its position. So the needle
crank also remains stationary in its position. So for the upward movement of the knife the hooks also
goes upward along with the warp threads to form the top line.

But if needle gets no perforation to enter, the hook is pushed to the right and as result the needle crank
takes away the hook along with it. So when the corresponding knife goes upward it cannot lift the
hook with it. Thus the warp ends of those hook remains fixed in its position and form the bottom line.
After certain time the knife releases two hooks which is lifted to form the top line and due to wrap
tension and dead weight the heald eye comes down. Its downward movement is controlled by grid
bar. Each needle has a spring push at its right and that spring pushes back the needle when the next
card comes.

Conclusion:
By this experiment we learned about the jacquard shedding and how it works. It is the finest of all
machines for making the designed woven fabrics that have been invented and far superior in capacity
to a dobby or tappet loom.
 Study on Cone Over picking Mechanism

Experiment Name: Study on side lever under picking mechanism.

Theory: Picking is the second of the primary motion of weaving. The object of picking is to insert
the weft yarn through the warp shred during weaving. It consists in passing a pick of weft
between the upper and lower lines of a divided warp. In side lever under picking mechanism, a
circular disk carrying a bowl is driven by the bottom shaft and the picking stick is held in position
outside the loom frame. The term under pick mechanism means the picking stick moves from the
bottom of the box and pivot of the stick is placed below the box.

Objective:

1) To learn about side lever under picking mechanism.

2) To learn about different parts used in this mechanism.

Figure:

Fig: Side Lever Under Pick Mechanism

Related Machine parts:

 Bottom shaft
 Circular Disk
 Picking Bowl
 Picking Shoe
 Side Lever
 Pivot
 Guide
 Elbow
 Picking Stick
 Returning Spring
 Rocking Shaft
 Buffer
 Picker
 Shuttle Box
Construction:

1) the circular disk received motion from the bottom shaft. The disk contain a bowl named picking
bowl able to push down the picking shoe of side lever.

2) Side lever of loom pivoted with loom frame and the up-down motion of side lever is controlled
by fixed guide.

3) Side lever is connected with elbow of picking stick which attached with returning spring on the
top of rocking shaft.

4) Each picking stick contains picker which push the shuttle through the passage.

Working Principle:

Due to motion of circular disk the picking bowl strike on picking shoe. For the strike lever pushed
down. The front side of the lever push the elbow of picking stick, the result picking stick move
forward and it hit the picker which push the shuttle to insert weft and the pushing force is enough
to send the shuttle to opposite shuttle box.

Calculation:
Speed of bottom shaft : (960 X 3 X 38) / (24 X 76)
= 60
There are two picking mechanism : PPM = 2 X 60 = 120

Result : 120 PPM

 Study on Under Picking Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on under picking mechanism.

Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the warp
yarns is called picking.

The functions of picking mechanism are:

1. To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight length.

2. To throw the shuttle at a predetermined speed.

Main parts:

Fig: Under picking mechanism

1. Picking arm
2. Picker
3. Picking cam
4. Picking bowl
5. Race board 6.Shuttle
6. Bottom shaft
7. Treadle lever
8. Angular lever
9. Crank shaft
Features of under picking mechanism:
1. Picker arm is placed under the race board.
2. Suitable for wider loom.
3. Under picking works less smoothly.
4. More direct action.
5. Rough in action.
6. More clean mechanism.
7. Consumes more power.
8. Used for heavy weight fabrics in silk and rayon looms.

Under picking mechanism:

In under picking mechanism a race board is situated over picking arm. Under picking is controlled by
picking cam which is fixed on the bottom shaft. At first the motion comes from motor and m/c pulley.

Then the motion comes in to the bottom shaft and thus picking cam. When picking cam rotates and its
nose portion comes in contact with treadle lever and pushes it then the treadle lever pushes the angular
lever. The picking arm gets motion from angular lever which is connected with picking arm.

A picker is placed in the picking arm which pushes the shuttle. When shuttle gets motion by picking
arm then shuttle begins to move to and fro on the race board. Thus picking is done.

A spring is situated which causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of the
pick. At the two end of bottom shaft, two picking tappets are fixed. By increasing nose length picking
speed may be increased.

How to increase PPM:

1. By increasing motor seed.
2. By increasing the nose shape of picking tappet.
3. By decreasing the length of picking arm.
4.
Uses:
This mechanism is used in all non-automatic cotton looms. It is also used in jute looms.

Conclusion:
This picking mechanism is very important for loom. In the loom under picking is directly done by
picker and picking arm. Again under picking is necessary for weft yarn insertion. So we should learn
about this mechanism very carefully.
 Study on Negative Tappet Shedding Motion

Negative Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Construction
Figure shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair of tappets A and B is fixed to the bottom
shaft C at 180 degrees to each other. Two treadle levers D and E are connected to the loom back-rail
by a bracket F. The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles have teeth to carry the
lamb rods G and H respectively. Two heald shafts J and K are connected to the lamb rods. A top
reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different diameters. The roller of small diameter N is
connected to leather strap L to which the front heald shaft J is connected. The roller P of large
diameter is connected to leather strap M to which the back heald shaft K is connected. The tappets A
and B touch the anti-friction bowls or followers R and S respectively, which are fixed to the treadle
levers.

Figure : Negative tappet shedding mechanism

The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p threads pass X is the war p sheet
and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft while the even ends are passed
through the other heald shaft.

Working Principle
When the bottom shaft is rotated in the clockwise direction as shown in the figure, the tappets are also
rotated. The tappet will depress the anti-friction bowl and the treadle. Being fulcrumed at one end, the
front portion of the treadle moves down. This action is transferred to the lamb rod, the heald shaft and
the leather strap. So one heald shaft is lowered and the threads connected to this heald shaft are
lowered and form the bottom layer of the shed.
 Dwell

The leather straps attached to the reversing rollers are connected in opposite directions, i.e. when
leather strap is pulled down; it is unwound from its roller. The shaft therefore rotates in the clockwise
direction and the other leather strap is wound on to its roller. The heald shaft is raised and therefore
the lamb rod and treadle lever are also raised. The threads connected to the heald shaft are also raised
and form the top layer of the shed. For the next shed, the other tappet works with the other set of
bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the other heald shaft is lowered. The first
heald shaft is raised by the top reversing rollers, and the positions of the healds shafts are
thus interchanged. Thus, for one rotation of the bottom shaft, two sheds are formed. In this type of
tappet shedding therefore, one tappet depresses the concerned treadle and the corresponding heald
shaft is lowered. But the other heald shaft is raised by means of the top reversing rollers. So this type
of shedding mechanism is known as “negative tappet shedding mechanism”

Timings and Setting:

1. Turn the crank to the top centre position.
2. Fix the anti-friction bowls to the treadle levers; they should move freely in the slots.
3. Fix the treadle levers with a bracket to the back rail of the loom.
4. Set the grid and grid bracket to the front rail of the loom in the slots of the grid.
5. Make sure that the tappet with the lower throw is fixed to the bottom shaft at the starting handle
side.
6. Fix the top reversing rollers to the top reversing roller shaft to be equidistant from the ends and at
the same time ensure that the connecting screws of the rollers are symmetrical about the central axis
of the shaft when the heald shafts are at the same level. The roller of smaller diameter is always
connected to front heald shaft.
7. The heald shafts are connected to the top reversing rollers by means of cords and leather straps. The
leather straps are connected to the rollers, such that when one of them winds on its roller the other
strap unwinds from its roller and vice versa.
8. Lamb rods are connected to the heald shafts by cords.
9. Adjust the tappets on the bottom shaft and make sure of the following points :

 The tappet with a bigger throw should be connected to the back heald shaft.
 The bowls should have perfect contact with the tappet surfaces.
 The treadles should be at the same level and parallel to each other at the top centre position.

Heald shafts :
The hook of the lamb rod of the front heald shaft should be connected to the first notch of the treadle
lever while that of the back heald shaft should be connected to the third notch. If the depth of shed is
altered, the connections of the hooks to the treadle levers can be changed.

Points to be Observed
1. Turn the crank shaft through two revolutions and make sure that the bowls are always in contact
with the tappets.
2. The heald shafts should not touch the side frames or the sley.
3. Turn the crank shaft to the bottom centre and check the size of shed. The bottom line of warp
sheet or the heald eyes of the lowered heald shaft should have a clearance of 1 mm from the race
board and the top.
 Study on Positive Tappet Shedding Motion

Positive Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Principle:
In this type of shedding, the heald shaft is raised and lowered by the tappet.

Construction
The tappet shaft carries another tappet which has a groove or track in which a bowl is placed. The
bowl is connected in turn to a tappet lever with link rods, links J and a heald shaft . Each tappet is
separately connected to a heald shaft through link rods and tappet lever. There are two fulcrums for
tappet lever and links
.
Working Principle:
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the shape of the groove, the bowl
is moved up or down or is still. If the bowl is moved up, the tappet lever moves to the right through
the links and the heald shaft is lowered. If the bowl is moved down, the tappet lever moves to the left
and the heald shaft is raised. Since the heald shaft is raised and lowered by means of the mechanism,
this tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding mechanism. When the bowl stands still, the
heald shaft is in the dwell stage.

Figure: Positive Tappet shedding

A positive shedding tappet, and the one most generally employed, is known as the Wood croft tappet.
This style of tappet is self-contained, and is now made in three different forms, according to the class
of fabric for which it is to be adopted. .The treadles are fulcrumed on the shaft and are provided
at with a knuckle, on which the antifriction pulley is pivoted. The pulleys are specially tempered or
made of steel in order to better resist the friction to which they are subjected. The movement of this
pulley and at the same time the treadle is determined by the shape and the arrangement of the section
plates i to 12. In this type of tappet only two different section plates are used.

That shown at it is employed to raise the treadle; that is to depress the treadle. The pulley is actuated
by the projecting rims of metal cast on the side of the plates with which it is in constant contact. The
healds are connected to jack levers placed above and below the healds ; the levers extend outside the
loom frame, and in turn are attached to the end of the treadle by means of the connector. When the
treadle is forced upwards by means of a section plate, the heald shaft is drawn down, and vice versa,
with the section plate.
These tappets are made to work with from 8 to 12 treadles, and can be constructed for weaves
containing up to 24 picks to the round. A tappet contains 12 sections or picks in one repeat. The tappet
shaft is supported in open bearings in the framework, and secured to this shaft the tappet wheel,
containing a number of teeth (in this 180) which is a multiple of the weaves for which the tappet may
be required. The wheel is also fitted width a number of standard bolt holes, in order to accommodate
section plates of different sizes, such as are required for weaves containing a varying number of picks
to the round.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Tappet Shedding:

Advantages:

1. It is robust, simple and cheap

2. It is capable of lifting a heavy weight with less wear and tear than other shedding mechanisms.
3. It can move heald shafts at great speeds.
4. It puts less strain upon the warp.
5. It consumes less power and gives greater output.
6. It requires less maintenance
Disadvantages:

1. If the weave is changed, it will be necessary to change the tappet and the change gear wheel in
the counter shaft arrangement. So work involved in changing the weave is more.
2. The capacity of a tappet to produce a pattern / weave is ver y much limited. A maximum of 8 or
10 tappets only can be used.
Faults that may occur in Tappet Shedding Mechanism:
1. If the tappet is faulty, it imparts a jerky movement to the heald shaft.
2. The tappet should always touch the bowls. Otherwise a severe blow is applied to the bowl and
the vibration is transmitted to the heald shaft. End breakages may occur a result of this.
3. Over shedding: If the depth of a shed is too much, strain on the warp will be more and end
breakages may occur.
4. Under shedding: If the depth of shed is too low, the shuttle will not reach the other end and may
be trapped in the shed or may fly out. Hence end breakages will occur.
5. Uneven shedding: Uneven shedding is caused by lifting one end of the heald shafts more than
the other so the shuttle may move over some war p threads and fly out or get trapped in the shed.
6. If the shedding is mistimed, then other motions like picking and beat-up cannot be done
smoothly and end breakages may occur.

Comments:
Tappet shedding mechanisms produce the shed by using the reciprocating motion of the tappet. Some
faults are involved in this mechanism. If this Faults are removed we can get the good result from the
tappet shedding mechanism.
 Study on Negative Dobby Shedding

Dobby Shedding
This is a compact, electronically guided shedding motion and capable of having up to 28 shafts. More
complex and versatile shedding motion. A dobby loom, therefore, can have up to 28 shafts, and much
greater weave repeat is possible. Design may be woven with two or more basic weaves and their
variation. Such fabrics may be referred as dobby cloths or dobby weave, towels usually show
geometric designs when pattern is provided by dobby.

Scope of Dobby:
 It can produce more complex design.
 Theoretically it can control maximum 48 heald frame but practically 36.
 For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48 heald frame.
 Production is less than tappet.

Principle of Negative Dobby Shedding:
In this type of shed, lowering of the heald frame occurred mechanically.

Construction:
In the negative shedding the heald frames are operated by the jack & lever. The levers are connected
with the knife and the knifes are attached with the driving rod by means of connecting needle. A
pattern is used here according to the weave plan. When the teeth of chain is come to the contact of
chain drum then whole the arrangement moves together and lowering of the heald frame is occurred
by the spring.

Figure: Negative dobby shedding

Working Principle:
The lowering of the heald frame is happens here by spring or jack lever. When the pattern cylinder
doesn’t find peg on the pattern drum then baulk lever and jack lever bring the heald frame in
downward direction, therefore the the lowering of the heald frame is occurred by means of spring
tension.
Advantages of Negative Dobby:
 Highly complex and critical fabrics can be weaved.
 At a time it can control many heald frame
 More faster than the positive dobby as well as over conventional loom
 Can produce close bottom shed
Disadvantages of Negative Dobby:
 In this shed only lowering of the shed is possible
 Due to more stress, yarn breakages more
 It is not good for heavier fabric
 It does not provide more high speed to the loom

Positive Dobby Shedding

Principles of positive dobby
In this type of shed lifting & lowering of the heald frame both is possible. lifting is occurred by means
of jack & lever, and lowering is occurred by means of spring under tension.

Construction and Working Principle:

Positive dobby shedding is the combination of three Cylinders, jack lever, spring and a shaft.
Between the three cylinders a shaft is fulcrum in one side the upper cylinder moves as the anti
clockwise and lower cylinder moves as the clock wise direction. The main cylinder when get motion
from the shaft when it found peg or pattern plan then the cylinder attached with the upper half toothed
disc. So that the heald frame is up,& when the pattern cylinder doesn’t found peg then the main
cylinder attached with the lower half toothed disc and the spring retains the heald frame to the
downward direction.
 Study of Negative Jaquard Shedding

Jacquard Shedding:
To provide with unlimited design width, jacquard shedding is needed. This shedding motion has no
shafts, instead, a hardness consisting of as many cords as there are ends in the warp sheet connects
each end individually to the jacquard machine. Each warp could weave independently of all others.
Complex and most versatile shedding motion. Biggest weave is possible with jacquard shedding as
each warp yarn may be individually controlled.

Figure: Jacquard loom with punch card

Scope of Jacquard Shedding:

 No heald frame is used
 Harness is used to lift & lower the warp thread
 One warp thread for each harness
 Most complex design is produced
 Maximum no. of warp yarn it can control.

Jacquard Shedding Process

A Jacquard attachment has blades, hooks, needles, a grife, griffe hooks, and a perforated cylinder. The
warp strands, drawn through the heddle eyes, are tied to the loom by harness cords, which are
threaded through a comber board for even distribution over the width of the loom. The blades set in a
blade frame, move up and down. The hooks that are near the blades are engaged by them and lifted
up, and the warp strands are also lifted by the griffe hooks and harness cords to form the upper part of
the shed (the warp yarn in the fabric). Hooks that are out of reach of the blades drop, together with the
griffe. The hooks and the warp strands drop because they are attached to weights. The lowered strands
of the warp yarn form the lower part of the shed (the woof yarn in the fabric). The hooks coming from
the area of the blades’ action are drawn out by needles activated by the cylinder, which in turn has a
rocking and rotating motion. A piece of cardboard consisting of individual paper cards is placed on
the cylinder and the hook stays near the blade, but when a needle does not meet a perforation it is
pushed back and the hook is kept away from the knife. By combining perforated and un perforated
places on the cards it is possible to exercise complete control over the raising and lowering of warp
strands and to form a design on the fabric.

Figure: Jacquard shedding mechanism

Advantages of Jacquard Shedding

 Jacquard shedding mechanisms are capable of producing large and intricate weave designs that
are beyond the scope of dobby shedding mechanisms.
 In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp yarn individually.
 Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been developed for weaving particular kinds
of fabric, such as terry towels, damasks, and carpets.
 Most of the rest are general purpose types that are comparatively easy to classify.

Suggestions:
Jacquard Shedding mechanism is very useful for producing designed fabric. Some of the
disadvantages hampered the shedding. We have to ensured the fault free shedding process in jacquard
shedding mechanism.

Conclusion:
The shedding process is done by some special device. Each Device is maintain the separate
mechanism to produce shed.
 Study of Different Types of Sheds

Different Types of Shed in Loom

Shedding:
Dividation of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads is called shed and the
mechanism of shed is called shedding, it is the first primary motion of weaving.

Types of shed:
1. Bottom close shed
2. Centre close shed
3. Semi-open shed
4. Open shed
1. Bottom close shed:

This type of shedding is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the upper
line. Under this condition, the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence in order to form a top
shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice the depth of a
shed, once up and down, before a fresh selection is made. A shed of this kind is known as
stationary bottom with a rising and falling top.

A→ Bottom line of warp

B→ Rising and falling line
C→ An arrow showing the space passed through

Advantages:

 Alternate tightening and slackening the warp threads produce a covered cloth
 Produce fire fabric (silk)
 Used in hand loom

Disadvantages:

 More stress or tension on the top warp line and less tension on the bottom warp line.
 More chance of breakage on top warp line
 Unequal warp tension produces poor quality fabric
 Loom speed/ waving speed is slower
 Not possible to produce compact fabric
 More power consumption
 More time required
2. Centre close shed:
This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are
to form the top line and the downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom
line. Then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the centre between the highest and
lowest lines of a divided warp.

A→ Closed warp line

B, C→ Upper and lower lines of a divided warp respectively
D→ Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in an upward direction
E→ Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in a downward direction

Advantages:

 Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line

 Less time required so high production
 Less wear of the m/c
 Less power consumption
 Less tear of the threads
Disadvantages:

 Beat up takes place in the closed shed condition

 There is chance of weft being moved backward
 Compact fabric can not be produced by this shed

3. Semi-open shed:
In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads for the top line either passes to
bottom at one movement and again carried to the top mid way and again carried to top. In
this shed close and open shed occurred simultaneously. In it the stationary bottom line is
retained, but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at one movement, or are
arrested midway and again carried to the top. Such a shed can be formed as expeditiously
as an open shed, for the upward movement begins and ends with the downward through
movement, and the arrested downward movement is converted into an upward movement
immediately the falling threads are in the same plane as the rising ones. They all reach the
top together but the strain upon them is not equally distributed.
A→ Stationary bottom line
B→ Top point
C→ The point where downward movement ceases in threads
D, E→ Showing the movement of through healds
F→ Arrow showing the threads which are to lift for the next pick

Advantages:

 Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line

 All the warp yarns are not required to move up and down in every pick
 Beat up takes places in the cross-shed condition
 The loom can run at a faster speed
 Possible to produce compact fabric
 Less complexity or disturbance in the shedding mechanism
 Used in power, dobby & jacquard loom
 For fancy fabric
 Less power consumption
 Less tear of threads

Disadvantages:

 Unusable movement

4. Open shed:
In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and the bottom line and
changes are made by carrying the threads from one fixed line to the other without any
interval.

A, B→ Stationary warp line

C, D→ Arrows which show the movement of rising and falling warp to equal the distance
between A & B
Advantages:

 Beat up takes place in cross-shed condition

 Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
 The loom can run at a fastest speed
 Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
 Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced.
 Less power consumption
 Less wear of the weaving m/c
Disadvantages:

 High breakage rate

 If higher no of healds are used then the warp in back healds are more strained than the front ones
 Levelling apparatus should be added to open shed to place the headls in one plane.
 Study on beating up mechanism of shuttle loom
Experiment Name : Study on beating up mechanism of shuttle loom.

Introduction: The beating up is the third primary motion of weaving. It consists in driving the last
pick of weft to the fell of the cloth. This is accomplished with the help of a reed fixed in the slay.
The slay is given a sudden and quick movement direction to the fell of the cloth by the cranks in
crank shaft.

Objective:
1) To learn about the beating-up mechanism of crank shaft.
2) To learn about different types of parts related with the mechanism.
3) To calculate the speed of the mechanism.

Figure:

Related Machine Parts:

 Crank Shaft
 Crank Shaft
 Crank Bearing
 Crank Pin
 Crank Arm
 Sword Pin
 Sley Race
 Rocking Shaft
 Race Board
 Sley Race
 Reed
 Reed Cap
Construction of the mechanism:

1) The beating up mechanism is connected with crank shaft. Here crank shaft is connected with
machine pulley.
2) The crank shaft contain crank. Each crank connected with crank arm by crank pin and it
contain bearing for smooth operation.
3) Crank arm and sley sword are attached with sword pin.
4) Position of the reed is top of the sley race.
5) Reed cap placed on the top of the reed.
6) The whole parts of the beating up mechanism are mounted on rocking shaft.

Working Principle:

1) Crank shaft achieved motion from machine pulley.

2) When crank shaft rotate due to the structure of the crank it move forward and backward.
3) Each crank connected with crank arm which is connected with reed. So when crank shaft
rotates reed move forward and backward.

Calculation:

Speed of crank shaft (Beating Speed) = (Motor RPM X Motor Pulley Dia) / Machine Pulley dia
= (960 X 3) / 24 = 120
Reed Count = 66

Result :

Speed of crank shaft = 120RPM

Reed Count = 66
 Study on let off mechanism of tappet loom
Experiment name : Study on let off mechanism of tappet loom.

Introduction: The motion which delivers the warp yarns from the warp beam at the required rate
that a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a flanged bobbin called let off motion.

Types of let off motion:

 Positive let off motion.
 Negative let off motion.

Objective:
 To learn about let off mechanism.
 To Calculate PPI.
 To write a report according to this experiment.

Related machine parts:

 Sley sword
 Key
 Connecting rod
 Let off lever
 Hook rod
 Side lever
 Cam
 Back rest
 Dead weight side lever
 Pushing pawl
 Ratchet wheel
 Gear:

a. Warm gear.
b. Bevel gear.
c. Helical gear.
 Beam driving wheel
 Beam flange
 Weaver beam
 Figure:

Construction of the mechanism:

1. A driving rod attached with sley sword contains pushing pawl. Which may adjusted by hook rod
which one connected with lever and back rest.

2. Pushing pawl push the ratchet wheel which connected with one set of bevel gear.

3. Bevel gear transfer motion by a complex gearing method.

Working principle:

1. The ratchet wheel received motion from the pushing pawl which push the ratchet wheel with
every beat up.

2. A Bevel gear achieved motion from ratchet wheel and transfer it to worm gear.

3. Worm gear transfer motion to helical gear which transfer motion to beam driving wheel.

Calculation:

PPI = (116 X 17 X 37 X 10) / (23 X 1 X 25 X 23)

= 55.17 PPI
Pick spacing = 1/ 55.17 = 0.01812 inch/pick
 Study on Positive Let-Off Mechanism

EXPERIMENT NAME: STUDY ON POSITIVE LET-OFF MOTION.

INTRODUCTION:
A mechanism controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving, warp knitting or other fabric is
forming machine where the beam is driven mechanically.

MAIN PARTS:

1. Warp beam
2. Floating back rest
3. Feeler
4. Spring
5. Warm
6. Ratchet
7. Driving rod
8. Collar
9. Reciprocating collar
10. Warm wheel
11. Large beam wheel
12. Adjusting rod
POSITIVE LET-OFF MECHANISM:
The beam turning mechanism is shown in the figure. The beam is driven by ratchet on a short vertical
shaft, which also carries the worm, which drives the worm wheel. A pinion on the same shaft as the
worm wheel drives the large beam wheel, which is fixed, to one of the beam flanges.

Positive let off motion

A pawl operator turns the ratchet wheel by the driving rod, which gets motion of the sley sword. Each
time the sley comes forward the oscillating collar is connected to fixed collar & there is engagements
of pawl with ratchet.As the tension in the warp sheet is increased, the floating rest will move
downwards and the rod carrying the fixed collar will move to the right and the rod R1 will move to
move the driving rod to the left.

This will bring the fixed collar to the oscillating collar.As a result, the force of imparted oscillating
collar and fixed collar is more. The pawl drives so more ratchet wheel teeth. So the beam motion is
more and more warp is withdrawn to the increased tension.

CONCLUSION:
In this mechanism, constant tension can be maintained and any variation in tension can be detected.
So it is used in modern power looms.
 Study on 5-Wheel Take Up Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on 5-wheel take up mechanism(jute).

Introduction:
Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it is woven. Texture of a fabric largely
depends upon the number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This motion determines the
number of picks of weft per inch or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of the fabric. It
is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a
loom. It is related to 7-Wheel Take up mechanism. 5-Wheel take up mechanism is used in case of
jute weaving and 7-Wheel take up mechanism is used in another weaving as like as cotton.

Objects:
1.To know about the construction of the mechanism.
2.To know about drive of the take-up motion.

Take up motion:
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a constant rate and then winding the woven
cloth on the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving is called take up motion.

Types:
(1)According to drive:
(a) Positive take up.
(b)Negative take up.

(2)According to motion of the cloth/Rate of take up:

(a)Continuous
(b)Intermittent

(3)According to drive given to the cloth roller:

(a)Direct drive
(b)Indirect drive

(4)According to number of gear train:

(a)5-Wheel
(b)6-Wheel
(c)7-Wheel

(5)According to brand name:

(a)Sulzer
(b)Pickanol
(c)Toyota
Specification:
1.Rachet Wheel(54)
2.Change Wheel(44)
3.Stud/Compound(70)
4.Stud/Compound pinion(27)
5.Take up Wheel(8/2)
6.Take up Roller Dia(10.5inch)
7.Cloth Roller
8.Pushing Paul
9.Holding Paul

Mechanism:
It consists of a train of five wheels. Of these five wheels rachet, stud and cloth roller wheels are driven
wheels while change and stud pinions are driver wheels. The motion is primarily imparted from the
slay sword. The slay sword is connected to the slay that gets motion from crank shaft and the crank
shaft gets motion from motor by gearing. At the bottom of slay sword a connecting rod is connected
which passes the motion to the monkey tail. The monkey tail is fulcrumed with two pawls: the upper
is holding pawl and lower is pushing pawl. These two pawls are mounted freely to the rachet wheel
which is the 1st wheel of this mechanism. The rachet wheel is connected with the change pinion by
shaft which is the 2nd wheel. Under the change pinion the 3rd wheel named stud wheel is geared.
This wheel is geared with the stud pinion, the 4th wheel. The 5th wheel is take-up roller wheel which
is geared upon the stud pinion. The cylinder upon which the woven fabric is wound, is connected with
this wheel by shaft. Now when the sley moves one time after one pick insertion the connecting rod
pass this motion to the monkey tail and as the pawls are fulcrum with monkey tail they get upward
motion. Using this upward motion the pushing pawl pushes the rachet wheel one time and and the
holding pawl holds the rachet in this position. Finally the cloth roller gets the motion by gear train and
thus fabric is wound on cloth roller continuously with the weaving of fabric.

The take-up may be grown or lessen by changing the position of monkey tail and pawls where they
are slotted. The more the distance is between them the more take-up is occurred and vice versa.

Remarks:
By this experiment we know about how to cloth is collected by take up mechanism. This is an
interesting experiment too. We hope this will be very helpful in our practical life.
 Study on Seven Wheel Take Up Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on seven wheel take up mechanism (Cotton Weaving).

Introduction:
Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it is woven. Texture of a fabric largely
depends upon the number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This motion determines the
number of picks of weft per inch or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of the fabric. It
is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a
loom.

Objects:

1. To know about the construction of the mechanism.

2. To know about drive of the take-up motion.
Take up motion:
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a constant rate and then winding the woven
cloth on the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving is called take up motion.

Types:
(1)According to drive:
(a) Positive take up.
(b)Negative take up.

(2)According to motion of the cloth/Rate of take up:

(a)Continuous
(b)Intermittent

(3)According to drive given to the cloth roller:

(a)Direct drive
(b)Indirect drive

(4)According to number of gear train:

(a)5-Wheel
(b)6-Wheel
(c)7-Wheel

(5)According to brand name:

(a)Sulzer
(b)Pickanol
(c)Toyota

Main parts& Specifications:

1. Sley
2. Sleysword
3. Connecting rod
 4. Monkey tail
5. Holding/Catching/Locking pawl.
6. Pulling pawl
7. Rachet Wheel(24)
8. Standard wheel(36). 9.Changewheel(1-Let)
9. Sewing wheel/Pinion(24)
10. Stud/Compound wheel(89)
11. Stud/Compound Pinion(14)
12. Take up wheel(89)
13. Take up roller(dia:15.5 inch)
14. Cloth roller

7-Wheel Take Up Mechanism

Motion Transfer:
Sley sword to connecting rod. Connecting rod to monkey tail. Monkey tail to pawl. Pawl to rochet
wheel. Rochet wheel to standard wheel. Standard wheel to change wheel. Change wheel to sewing
wheel. Sewing wheel to stud wheel. Stud wheel to stud pinion Stud pinion to take up wheel. Take up
wheel to take up.

Working Principle:
This positive take-up mechanism consists of seven wheels. These are

1. Rachet,
2. Standard wheel,
3. Change pinion,
4. Stud pinion,
5. Stud wheel,
6. Swing pinion and
7. Take-up roller wheel.
The motion is primarily imparted from the sley sword. The sley sword is connected to the slay that
gets motion from crank shaft and the crank shaft gets motion from motor by gearing. At the bottom of
sley sword a connecting rod is connected which passes the motion to the monkey tail.
The monkey tail is fulcrum with two pawls: the upper is holding pawl and lower is pulling pawl.
These two pawls are mounted freely to the ratchet wheel which is connected with the standard wheel
by shaft. Over the standard wheel the change pinion is geared. The change pinion is connected with
the stud pinion by shaft and the stud wheel is geared with the stud pinion upon it. The swing pinion is
connected with the stud wheel and the cloth take-up roller wheel is geared with the swing pinion.

The cylinder upon which the woven fabric is wound, is connected with this wheel by shaft. Now when
the sley moves one time after one pick insertion the connecting rod pass this motion to the monkey
tail and as the pawls are fulcrum with monkey tail they get downward motion. Using this downward
motion the pushing pawl pulls the rachet wheel one time and the holding pawl holds the rachet in this
position. Finally the cloth roller gets the motion by gear train and thus fabric is wound on cloth roller
continuously with the weaving of fabric.

Advantages of 7 take-up wheel over 5 wheel take-up

mechanism:
1. It can give a larger number of picks per inch in cloth from a small stock of wheels by changing
two wheels in the train,
2. It can give even a fraction of a pick per inch in cloth and
3. The number of teeth in the change wheel and the number of picks per quarter-inch has been
simplified.
Remarks:
By this experiment we know about how to cloth is collected by take up mechanism. This is an
interesting experiment too. We hope this will be very helpful in our practical life.
Difference of Tappet, Dobby & Jacquard Shedding
Mechanism
Jacquard
Topic Tappet shedding Dobby shedding shedding
Elaborate i.e.
Design Medium i.e. very complex
capacity Simplest structure. complex structure. structure.
Theoretically it can
control maximum
Maximum no. of 48, but practically Theoretically it
heald shaft – 14 . for wool no. of can control any
Theoretically it can heald shaft -36 & no. of warp
No. of heald control 6-10 heald for cotton no. of thread
shaft shaft. heald shaft -24. individually.
Speed of loom Very high. High. Slow.
Driver position
of heald shaft Below the loom. Above the loom. Above the loom.
For different
designs, different For different
For different designs design of pegging designs, different
different tappets are legs are placed on designed pinched
fitted to bottom cylinder/pattern cards are places
Design shaft. drum. on cylinder.
Highly
Cost of fabric Low fabric cost. Expansive. expensive.
Production More than the
rate dobby. Less production. Less production.
Textile Calculation | Different Formula of Textile Calculation

FIBER FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND

CONVERSIONS

Micronaire Value (Cotton): The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch length
of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram).

Denier (Man-Made Fibres): Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre.

Micron (Wool): Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)

Conversions:

 Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value

 Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier
YARN COUNTS
It is broadly classified into;

1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM
INDIRECT SYSTEM

 English count (Ne)

 French count(Nf)
 Metric count(Nm)
 Worsted count
Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per Kg.

 Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)

 Nm = length meter / weight in grams
DIRECT SYSTEM

 Tex count
 Denier
CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS
Tex Den Nm Grains/yd

Tex den/9 1000/Nm gr.yd x 70.86

Ne 590.54/tex 5314.9/den Nm x .5905 8.33 / gr/yd

Den tex x 9 9000/Nm gr/yd x 637.7

Nm 1000/tex 9000/den 14.1 / gr/yd

Grains/yd tex / 70.86 den / 637.7 14.1/Nm

CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS
Ounce Grains Grams Kilograms Pounds

Ounce 437.5 grains 28.350 grams

0.03527
Grains ounces 0.0648 grams

0.03527
Grams grains 15.432 grains 0.001 kgs

35.274
Kilograms ounces 15432 grains 1000 grams 2.2046 pounds

16.0
Pounds ounces 7000 grains 453.59 grams 0.4536 kgs

CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES

Yard Feet Inches Centimeter Meter

0.9144
Yard 3 feet 36 inches 91.44 cms meter

0.3048
Feet 0.3333 yards 12 inches 30.48 cms meter

0.254
Inches 0.0278 yards 0.0833 feet 2.54 cms meter

Centimeter 0.0109 yards 0.0328 feet 0.3937 inches 0.01meter

Meter 1.0936 yards 3.281 feet 39.37 inches 100 cms

CALCULATIONS

 Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne

 Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
 Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
 Ne = Nm/1.693
 DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
 DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
 DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
 No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605
WINDING
1. Slub catcher settings :

a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter

Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter

b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter

Diameter in inch for Blended yarn = 1/( 28 x √count )

= 10 to 15% more settings
 Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
2.Yarn clearer efficiency =..................................................................................................x 100

Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding

Total breaks during winding (at faults)

3. Knot factor =...............................................................................
No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults

Strength of spliced joint x 100

4. Retained splice strength = ...........................................................
Strength of parent yarn

5. Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams

4500 x Y
6. Expected efficiency E = ......................................................

S x N (12 + 98)

7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per shift
of 8 hours

Where,

 1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation

 1 doffing = 2 operations
8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours

Where,

 1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation

 1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation
Y = Length/Bobbin (metres)
B = Breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (metres/min)
C = English count

9. Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)

 L - delivery speed in m/min

 effy - efficiency
 Ne - english count
 Nd - No of delvieries
10. P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)

 P - production in kgs / hr
 L - delivery speed in m/min
 effy- efficiency
 Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
 840 - constant
 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
WARPING
R x 100
1. Machine Efficiency E =.............................
R + S

R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)

1000 x 60
= .................................................
Machine speed in mtr/min.

S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters

B X N X T1 T2 T3
= R + ---------------- + ------ + ----------- + T4
400 L LxC

 B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters

 N = Number of ends
 L = Set length in 1,000 meters
 C = Beams per creel
Timing of activities in seconds are :

 T1 = To mend a break
 T2 = To change a beam
 T3 = To change a creel
 T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.
2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.

3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)

4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength

SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1. Warp weight (in kg.) = ……………………………………………x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count

Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight

2. Size pick-up % =……………………………………………………… x 100
Un-sized warp weight

3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up %

Sized warp length - Unsized warp length

4. Stretch % = …………………………………………………x 100
Un-sized warp length

Total-ends x Warp length in yards

5. Sized yarn count = ………………………………………………………
Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840
 Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn
6. % of Moisture content= ………………………………………………… x 100
Wt. of sized yarn

Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading

7. % of Stretch =……………………………………………………… x 100

Feed counter reading

840,000 x D x C
8. % Droppings on loom = ……………………………. x 100
454 Y x N x P

D = Dropping in gms.

C = English Count
Y = Length woven (yds.)

N = Number of Ends
P = % size add on

9. Invisible Loss%

Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn

= ………………………………………………………….....................x 100
Amount of size issued

Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn

(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn

No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count

10. Max. Speed of machine = ………………………………………………
(metres/min) Number of ends

Number of ends x 0.6

11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr = …………………………
English count

WEAVING
1. Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system.

EPI
Reed width = ………………………………
1 + Weft crimp %age

No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count

2. Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x ………………………………
100

3. Crimp % :
Warp length - Cloth length
Warp Crimp %age =…………………………………………. x 100
Cloth length

Weft length - Cloth length

Weft Crimp %age = ……………………………… x 100
Cloth length

EPI

4. Warp cover factor = ....................................

√Warp Count

PPI
5. Weft cover factor =…………………….
√Weft count

Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.

6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. - ……………………………….
28

7. Maximum EPI for particular count :

a. For plain fabrics = 14 x √Count

b. For drill fabrics = √Count x 28 x 4/6

c. For satin fabric = √Count x 28 x 5/7

Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter

d. Other design = ………………………………………………………..
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat

1
8. Yarn diameter = ……………………
28 x √Count

Weave Density
1. Warp density = Ends/cm x √Tex x K
= < 250

2. Filling density = Picks/cm x √Tex x K

= < 350

(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100

3. Weave Density = 50 + ……………………………………………
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100
4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

Count Table

To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping

the same denseness of the fabric :

1. To change the EPI without altering the denseness :

EPI in given cloth x √ Warp count in expected cloth

EPI in Exp.Cloth =………………………………………………………………

√ Warp count in given cloth

2. To change the count without altering the denseness :

EPI in exp. cloth2

EPI in exp. cloth = …………………………………x Count in given cloth
EPI in given cloth

Warp requirement to weave a cloth :

Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =…………..............................................x Wasteage%

840 x Count

2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.

R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI

=…………………………………x Crimp % x Waste %
840 x Count

3. Cloth length in mtrs.with the given weft weight

Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144

=……………………………………………………….
 PPI x R.S. in inches

For Silk and Polyester :

1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs.

Total ends x Count (Denier)

= ……………………………..............x Crimp% x Waste %age
9000

2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.

RS in inches x PPI x Count (Denier)

= …………………………………........ x Crimp% x Wasteage%
9000

Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :

 Count becomes 4%
 Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser
FABRIC PRODUCTION
Motor pulley diameter
1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x ………………………………….
Loom pulley diameter

Actual production
2. Loom Efficiency % = ------------------------------- x 100
Calculated production

Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight

3. Moisture Regain % = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed yarn weight

Yarn weight - dried yarn weight

4. Moisture Content % = ----------------------------------------------- x 100
Yarn weight

Total ends x Tape length in metre

5. Warp weight in Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------
1693.6 x Warp count

RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI

6. Weft weight in Kg. = -------------------------------------------------------------------
4301.14 x Weft count

EPI PPI
7. Cloth weight in GSM = ------------------ + -------------------- x 25.6
Warp count Weft count

GSM (Grams per sq. metre)

8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = --------------------------------------------
34

Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :
 0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
L = ---------------------------------
t

Where,

L = Length of material (feet)

t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)

Weight of yarn in a cloth :

The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and weft :
ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.

Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)

Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.

Where as Weight of warp in lbs = -----------------------------------------------------
840 x Warp yarn count

Also Weight of weft in lbs.

Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch)

= ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yarn Numbering System and Conversions

What is yarn count?

Since yarn is the compressible textile material it is not possible to measure its fineness by any of the
testing instrument so it is usually expressed in terms of the linear density or count. In short the count
of yarn is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or size of the yarn. It also expresses
weather the yarn is thick or thin. According to the textile institute yarn count is a number of indicating
the length per unit weight of the yarn or weight per unit length.

Importance of yarn count:

The main purpose of manufacturing of the yarn is to convert it in to the fabric form. Usually 90% of
the yarn is converted into the fabric form for making its use and the remaining is used as it is in the
yarn form. If the yarn is used as it is then there is no so much need of measuring its dimensions, but if
it is to be converted in to the fabric form then in order to manufacture the required fabric, the yarn
parameters plays vital role. The fabric parameters are decided from the use of that fabric for which
it is to be used, and those fabric parameters are inculcated from the yarn parameters.

The fabric construction is varied with respect to its end use. The main important fabric factors
deciding its construction are, yarn spacing and yarn thickness. Out of this the yarn spacing can be
measured by counting the number of yarns per inch with use of magnifying glass. The yarn thickness
i.e. yarn diameter (assuming that the yarn is almost circular in cross section) is not an easy process
even by any of the means due to the following problems.
Yarn count testing method
1. Wrap reel method
2. Skein gauge method
3. Drying oven method
4. Analytic balance method
What is yarn numbering?
Yarn numbers is measures of the coarseness or fineness of a yarn indicating the length per unit mass
or mass per unit length and the method of calculation of count number is called as yarn numbering
system.

Importance of yarn numbering system

The fineness of yarn cannot be expressed easily in terms of diameter as in the case of wires and cords
we measure its diameter by using instrument such as micrometer or calipers. But in case of yarn we
cannot measure its diameter by using micrometer and caliper because most of the yarns are relatively
soft and compressible, also the cross section of the spun yarn is not fully circular and it contains
variations in thickness because presence of thick and thin places in the yarn and the continuous
filament yarns also suffer from this drawback. Therefore yarn numbering systems like special
methods are used to measure the fineness and coarseness of yarn.

Types of yarn numbering system

1. Direct yarn numbering system
2. Indirect yarn numbering system
1. DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM
[MASS/UNIT LENGTH]:
Direct yarn numbering system also known as mass per unit length of yarn, hence in this system higher
the yarn number or count indicates the coarser or thicker the yarn size and smaller the yarn number or
count indicates the finer or lighter the yarn size. This system is generally used for Tex and Denier. In
direct yarn numbering system the count directly express the size of the yarn and a coarser yarn will
have a higher number while a finer yarn will have a lower number. The resultant count of the folded
yarn can be easy to calculate even component threads are of different counts. Cloth setting are
comparative difficult in this system. And we cannot easily calculate the weight of the fabric and
Calculation of the amount of twist in the yarn.

The following formula is used to calculate the direct yarn count:

Wxl
N = --------
L

Where,

N = Yarn count or number system

W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the units of the system
L = Length of the sample
L = Units of length of sample
 Fig: Different yarn number system

1. Tex (Universal yarn numbering system):

Tex system of yarn numbering system is called as universal yarn numbering system. This system
comes under direct yarn numbering system and it is introduced by International standard organization
(ISO) and textile scientists of various organization, manufactures and technologists. This system is
applicable to yarn made from both natural fibers as well as synthetic fibers. Hence this system is
useful for replacing the several different systems which are being used in the various sectors of the
textile industry all over the world. Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn process. For fineness of
cord, wire, ropes and sliver etc. are expressed in terms of kilotex that is the weight of the material in
kg in one km length but for the fineness of fiber it can be expressed in terms of millitex that is weight
of fiber in mg (milligrams) in one km (kilometer) length. The advantages and drawbacks of direct
system of yarn numbering are also applicable to universal system.

In shortly,
Tex is defined as the weight of yarn in grams per 1000 meter of yarns or 1 km length.

i.e., wt. in grams per 1000 meters of yarn.

1000 x Weight in gram’s

Tex = -------------------------------
Length in meter’s

Example: 30 Tex indicates that 1000 meters of yarn weight 30 grams.

Questions:
A) Calculate the tex-count of nylon yarn, if the length of yarn is 20000 yards & its weight is 400
gram’s.

Answer:

1 yard = 0.9144 meter

1000 x Weight in gram’s

Tex = -------------------------------
Length in meter’s
 1000 x 400
Tex = --------------------------
20000 x 0.9144

Tex = 21.87

2. Denier:
In the direct denier system, the yarn count number indicates the weight in grams of 9000 meters of
yarn.

9000 x Weight in grams

Denier = ------------------------------------
Length in meter

Example: 30 Denier indicates that 9000 meters of yarn weight 30 grams.

Questions:
A) The yarn of polyester filament weighing 50 grams in 6000 meter length calculate the Denier of the
yarn.

Answer:

9000 x Weight in grams

Denier = --------------------------------------
Length in meter

9000 x 50
Denier = ----------------------
6000

Denier = 75

3. Spyndle Count:
This system is generally used for jute, hemp or dry spun-linen yarn. Spyndle count is defined as
weight in pounds per one spindle of 14400 yards.

Weight in pound x 14400

Spyndle = ---------------------------------
Length in yards

4. Grex Count:
It is defined as weight in grams of 10000 meters of yarn.

Weight in gram’s x 10000

Grex count = ----------------------------------------
Length in meter’s
INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM
[LENGTH/UNIT MASS]:
Indirect yarn numbering system also known as length per unit mass of yarn, Hence in this system
higher the yarn number or count indicates the finer or lighter the yarn size and smaller the yarn
number or count indicates the coarser or thicker the yarn size. This system is generally used for
English cotton count, Worsted count, Linen count, Woolen count, French cotton count and metric
count. As compared to direct yarn numbering system this system is very easy to calculate weight of
the fabric, when the count of warp and weft are expressed in this system. The amount of twist in the
yarn and cloth setting (threads per inch) are directly proportionally to the square root of yarn count
and very difficult to calculate. The count does not express the size of the yarn directly. And a coarser
or bulky yarn will have a small count number than a finer or less bulky yarn. And it is very difficult to
calculate the resultant count of the folded yarn in this system, when the component threads are
different counts.

The following formula is used to calculate the indirect yarn count:

N = (L × w)/ W ×l

Where,
N = Yarn count or number system
W = Weight of the sample at the official regain in the units of the system
L = Length of the sample
L = Units of length of sample
W = Units of weight of sample

Numbering system Units of length(l) Units of weight(W)

English cotton count (Ne) 840 yards 1 pound (lb.)

Metric count (Nm) 1000 meters / 1km 1 kg

Woolen count (YSM) 256 yards 1 pound (lb.)

Worsted count (Nek) 560 yards 1 pound (lb.)

Linen count (NeL) 300 yards 1 pound (lb.)

French cotton count 1000 meters 500 grams

1. English cotton count (Ne):

This also known as British count or English count. This defined as the number of hanks each of 840
yards weighing in one pound of the yarn.

Length in yards
English cotton count (Ne) = ---------------------------------
840 x Weight in lbs
Example:

A. 30/1 cotton (1 means single yarn) indices that 30 x 840 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.

B. 40/2 cotton (2 means ply yarn) indicates that 20(Resultant count) x 840 yards of yarn weight 1
pound.

Questions:
A). A yarn having length of 90,000 yards and its weight in 2 pounds calculate its English count.

Answer:

Length in yards
English cotton count (Ne) = -----------------------------------
840 x Weight in lbs

90,000
Ne = -------------------
840 x 2

English cotton count (Ne) = 53.57

2. Worsted count (Nm):

It is defined as the no. of hanks each of 560 yards weighing in one pound of the yarn.

Length in yards
Worsted count (Nm) = ---------------------------------
560 x Weight in lbs

Example:

A. 1/20 worsted cotton indicates that 20 × 560 yards of yarn 1 pound.

B. 3/40 worsted cotton indicates that 13.33(Resultant count) × 560 yards of yarn.

Questions:

A) If 80 yards worsted yarn weighing 50 grains what is count of yarns.

Answer:

Length in yards
Worsted count (Nm) = ---------------------------------
560 x Weight in lbs

80
Nm = ------------------------
560 x (50/7000)

Nm = 20.0s

3. Linen count (Wet – spun):

Linen count is the number denoting numbers of hank’s each of 300 yards weighing in pound.
 Length in yards
Linen count = -----------------------------
300 x Weight in lbs

Questions:

A) If 240 yards of linen yarn weight 1 oz., what is the count of the yarn.

Answer:

1 lbs. = 16 oz.

Length in yards
Linen count = -------------------------------
300 x Weight in lbs

240
Linen count = ----------------------
300 x (1/16)

Linen count = 12.8

4. Woolen Count (Yorkshire count):

Woolen count (Yorkshire count) is the number denoting number of hanks each of 256 yards weighing
in one pound (lbs.).

No. of hanks of 256 yards

Woolen count = ---------------------------------------
Weight in pound (lbs)

Length in yards
Woolen count = ----------------------------------
256 x Weight in lbs

Questions:

A) The weight of 786 yards of woolen yarn is ¼ lb., what is the count of yarn.

Length in yards
Woolen count = ----------------------------------
256 x Weight in lbs

768
Woolen count = ------------------
256 x (1/4)

Woolen count = 12s

5. French Cotton Count:

It is defined as number of hanks each of 1000 meters weighing in ½ kg.
 Length in meter x 2
French count (NF) = --------------------------------------
1000 x Weight in kg

6. Metric count (Nm):

It is defined as number of hank’s each of 1000 m weighing in 1 kg.

Length in meters
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x Weight in kg

Example:
A. 30 Nm indicates that 30 Kilometers or 30,000 meters of yarn weight 1 kilogram.

Questions:

A) Calculate Metric cotton count of 60000 yards weighing 1.2 pound (lbs.)

Answer:

1 yard = 0.9144 meter

1 kg = 2.202 pounds

Length in meters
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x Weight in kg

60000 x 0.9144
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x (1.2/2.202)

54864
Metric count (Nm) = -----------------------------------
1000 x 0.5449

Metric count (Nm) = 100.68

You may also like:

1. Yarn Numbering System and Conversions

2. How to Calculate the Yarn Count
3. Understanding About Count and Count Measurement System
4. Textile Calculation | Different Formula of Textile Calculation
5. How to Find Yarn Count from GSM
6. Yarn Numbering System (Yarn Count) | Direct Count System | Indirect Count System
How to Calculate the Yarn Count

Introduction:
The different end-uses require yarns of different thickness. The accepted way to indicate the thickness
of a yarn or material in various stages of yarn manufacturing is to give the yarn count or linear
density. The length of the material is measured out, and then weighed. Count is expressed as the
length per unit mass.The linear density is expressed as mass per unit length. Each system is referred to
as being either indirect or direct.

Fig: Count measurement machine

Objectives of this study:

1. To know about yarn count.
2. To know about the calculation of yarn count.
Theory:

Yarn count:
The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses
weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number
which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.

Length in yard x Weight Unit

Cotton count = ---------------------------------------------------- ………… (1)
840 yard x Weight in pound
Required apparatus:
 Digital Balance.
 Sample of yarn.
 Calculator.
Experimental procedure:
At first, a lea of yarn has been taken. Then the lea was weighted by digital balance. The weight gram
was converted to pound. Then the data were put in equation (1). The count was calculated by the
equation. Finally average count have been calculated which is the cotton count of this sample.

Experimental Data:
Table 1: Measurement of Yarn Count

Table 2: Measurement of Yarn Count CV%

Results:
The average count is 42 and the CV% is 5.95.

Discussion:
In this experiment, the yarn count of the given cotton sample was determined by wrap reel and
analytical balance. It is a very easy process of determining yarn count. We must be careful about some
steps of this process. We should maintain proper tension of yarn when yarns are wind on wrap reel.
The weights should also be taken very carefully. Otherwise the count can have error. We also should
be aware about our body movement in the lab. Otherwise any accident can be occurred.

Conclusion:
It is a very easy process of determining yarn count. But a disadvantage of this process is, it is slower
than any other process. There need more time than another process. However, it is so much used
process as it is so easy to be done.
Understanding About Count and Count Measurement System

Linear Density or Count :

Count is a numerical expression that indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn.

According to Textile Institute, “ Count is a number indicating the mass per unit length or the length
per mass unit of a yarn”.

Types of Yarn Counting System

Direct system : Count is measured as the weight of yarn per unit length

If Count increase then Dia increase.

Count =

Indirect system : Count is measured as the length of yarn per unit weight.

If increase Count then decrease Dia

Count =

For Direct system Used formula,

For Indirect system Used formula,

Where,

 N= count
 L= sample length
 l= unit length
 W= wt. of yarn
 ω= wt. unit
Types of yarn count :

 Normal count
 Conditional count
 Average count
 Resultant count
Relation between yarn diameter and count:
Assuming an apparent specific volume for cotton yarn is 1.1-

Specific volume of yarn is 1.1 cc/gm

The mass of 1.1 cc yarn = 1 gm

If the yarn count is N tex then, we get

The length of N gm yarn is 1000m

The length of 1 gm yarn is 1000/N m=100000/N m

So that, length of 1.1 cc yarn is 100000/N m

We know that,
Cross sectional area × Length = Volume

If yarn Diameter is d then,

Converting cm to inches and Tex to English count

Measurement of Yarn Counting System :

1. Wrap reel and balance method

2. Beasley's yarn balance
3. Knowles balance
4. Quadrant balance method
5. Sliver, roving count by measuring drum
6. Count data system
7. Auto sorter by Uster
How to Find Yarn Count from GSM
Definition of Yarn Count:
Yarn count is a numerical value which refers to the coarseness or fineness of the yarn. It is
calculated by taking into account the length and weight of the yarn. The weight of the yarn is
just the mass per unit length of the yarn.

Definition of Fabric GSM:

Fabric GSM refers to the Grams per Square Meter of the fabric. It is the weight of the fabric
per square meter, measured in grams.

Example: Single jersey fabric is 130 GSM. Now find the yarn count?

Ans: For single jersey,

4300/GSM

= 4300/130

= 33.08

You can make this kind of fabric with 32/34 count of yarn.

Another System:
For single jersey,

(-0.141 x GSM) + 50.22

= (-0.141 x 130) + 50.22

= 31.89

So you can make fabric with 32 count of yarn.

I also add some others:

1. Terry = 6240 ÷ GSM

2. S/J = 4300 ÷ GSM
3. Pique = 5200 ÷ GSM
4. Fleece = 7200 ÷ GSM
5. Interlock = 7200 ÷ GSM
6. 1x1 Rib = 6000 ÷ GSM
7. Lacost = 5500 ÷ GSM
8. 2x2 Rib = 6250 ÷ GSM
9. Terry = 6240 ÷ GSM
Another Tricks:

1. S/J = (-0.141x GSM) +50.22

2. Pique = (-0.146 x GSM) +57.16
3. Double Lacost = (-0.167 x GSM) +64.36
4. 1x1 Rib = (-0.123 x GSM) +54.57
5. Interlock = (-0.206 x GSM) +80.56
6. Lycra 1x1 Rib = (-0.119 x GSM) +59.12
7. Lycra 2x2 Rib = (-0.108 x GSM) +56.62
About Author:
Md Saazzadul Karim (Shohug)
Merchandiser
SG Apparels Co. Ltd.
Email: saazzadul@gmail.com

You may also like:

1. Determination of GSM (Gram per Square Meter) of Woven and Knitted Fabrics
2. Count Selection in Knitting | Selection of Count in Knitted Fabric
3. Yarn Numbering System (Yarn Count) | Direct Count System | Indirect Count System

Study on Thread Count and Thread Density

Thread count
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also
indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit
mass) of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has been introduced which specifies a certain
ratio of length to weight. Thread count is expressed by warp and weft yarn. Thread count is very
important for GSM and cover factor. But the GSM and cover factor are also depend on the thread
density.

From the Table-1 and Figure-1; we have seen that the highest warp count is 40 Ne of Plain and the
lowest warp count is 8 Ne (16+16) of Boxy. Also we see that the highest weft count is 40 Ne of Plain
and the lowest weft count is 5 Ne (10+10) of Ottoman. Ne (English Count) is the indirect system. In
theoretically higher Ne must be finer than lower Ne. So all the results we have collected regarding
thread count comply with the theory.

Table-1: Thread count of different types of woven fabric

Thread count

Sample Warp Weft

Dobby 32 20

Boxy 16+16=8 16+16=8

Rib stop 21 21

Oxford 40+40=20 30/2=15

Plain 40 40

3/1 LHT 16 12

Zigzag twill 22 22

Bedford cord 20 16

2/1 RHT 20 20+70D=16

Ottoman 16 10+10=5
 Figure-1: Thread count chart of different types of woven fabric

Thread density
Thread density is the number of warp and weft threads per inch of woven fabric. Thread density is
denoted by EPI and PPI. It is very important for GSM and cover factor. But the GSM and cover factor
also depend on the thread count.

From the Table-2 and Figure-2; we have seen that the EPI is always greater than PPI. The highest EPI
is 154 of Bedford cord and the lowest EPI is 100 of ottoman. Also we see that the highest PPI is 85 of
Dobby and the lowest PPI is 48 of 2/1 RHT. In theoretically EPI must be greater than PPI. EPI is
greater than PPI in our result. So all the results we have found in thread density comply with the
theoretical concept.

Table 2: Thread density of different types of woven fabric

Thread density

Sample EPI PPI

Dobby 152 85

Boxy 108 56

Rib stop 110 72

Oxford 120 80

Plain 133 72

3/1 LHT 116 56

Zigzag twill 133 68

Bedford cord 154 80

2/1 RHT 120 48

Ottoman 100 49
 Figure-2: Thread density chart of different types of woven fabric

Process Flow Chart of Yarn Spinning Technology | Working

Process Flow Chart of Yarn Spinning Technology

SPINNING
The cotton fiber grows in the seedpod or boll, of the cotton plant. Each fiber is a single elongated cell
that is flat, twisted, and ribbon like with a wide inner hollow (lumen). It is composed of about 90
percent cellulose and about 6 percent moisture; the remainder consists of natural impurities. The outer
surface of the fiber is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives the fiber a somewhat
adhesive quality. After this hydraulic pressing is done and cotton is been tested for the quality control.
And then it has been sent for even moisture distribution. After all these processes this bale cotton
gone to traders and textile mills receives these bale cotton from traders. As soon as the cotton arrives
at the mill after ginning process in large bales weighing about 500 pounds (225 kg) each it is been
kept for 24hours.
 Fig: Complete flow chart of yarn spinning

Flow Chart of Yarn Spinning Technology are described given below:

1. BLENDING STEPS:
Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron. Blending apron
has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on
apron. The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by
apron. Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on
conveyor belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.

2. OPENING STEPS:
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling
beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen
rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from
beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the
small rolls. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another
type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to (Cotton going through the
picker. It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is
required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds. Mechanical bale pickers
pluck thin, even layers of the matted fibers from each of a predetermined number of bales in turn and
deposit them into a opening machine where the fibers are loosened) hopper. The fiber is mixed and
passed to an opener. As the mass of fiber passes through the opener, cylinders with protruding fingers
open up the limp and free the trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend
upon the type of cotton that is being processed. The commonly used porcupine beater revolves about
1000 revolutions per minute. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of grid bars. When
the cotton emerges from the opener, it still contains small tufts with about two-thirds of the trash. It
may be conveyed as lap. GBR- Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing
dirts.MPM-8 вАУ it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while
harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So,
after homogeneous mixing all will be the same.

3. CARDING PROCESS:
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers
must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into
somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a
beater section and drawn o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes
slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the
cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes,
disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This
web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card
sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.

STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll (covered with saw
toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars and gives it up to large cylinder
which passes between the thousands of fine wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton
follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder, which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb
vibrates against doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that passes through condenser rolls,
coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may be passed from one can to combing for further removal
of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.

4. DOUBLING PROCESS:
After carding, several slivers are combined. This results in a relatively narrow lap of compactly placed
staple fibers. The compactness of these fibers permits this cotton stock to be attenuated, or drawn out,
to a sliver of smaller diameter without falling apart.

5. COMBING PROCESS:
When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening
called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they
are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out
and completely separated out from the longer fibers. The combing process forms a comb sliver made
of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much
as 25% of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The
combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple
yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels
indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns.

6. DRAWING PROCESS:
The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that
would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. The draw frame has
several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This
action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After
several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to
those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles,
where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins.

STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are
connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine automatically stops.
This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than
preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming
out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute.
The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform
and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.

8. SPINNING PROCESS:
The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers
running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired.
Spinning machines are of two types; ring frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but
produces a relatively coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required
because of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable
for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands
of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. The ring spinning
frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3)
by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such
processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be
wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving.

STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more
refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From bobbin roving is fed between set of
drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant
speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of
twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of
traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.

Textile Spinning Process of Cotton Yarn

What is Spinning?
A Yarn is usually of substantial length & of small cross section. In the cross section of a yarn there are
usually a multiple number of Staple fibers (short fibers) or Filaments (long fibers) of unlimited length.

Yarn made out of Staple fiber is known as Spun Yarn, because the staple fibers should undergo
number of process stages so that a yarn can be made out of them. This procedure or process stages in
correct sequence is called “Spinning”. Fiber extrusion or conversion of filaments from Polymers was
also considered as “Spinning”. Below mentioned is an introduction to the Yarns.
 Classification of Yarn

Staple Spun Yarn:

Those are made by Twisting Staple Fibres together into a Strand. The length of the Fibre is limited.
Given are some of the spun yarns.

01. Mono Yarn:

Solid, Single Strand of Unlimited Length.

02. Multi Filament :

Many continuous filaments with some twist.

03. Staple Yarn :

Many short fibers twisted together tightly.

04. Two Plied Yarn :

Two single yarn twisted together.

05. Multi Plied Yarn :

Plied Yarns twisted together.

06. Thread :
Hard, Fine, Plied Yarn.

07. Cord or Cable :

Many plied yarns twisted into a course structure.

Yarn Numbering Systems:

In above we found that there are different types of yarns. The thickness is a very important property of
a yarn. So there are methods to determine & define yarn thickness. Depending on the units used for
measuring Length & mass, fineness of a textile yarn is given in different units. Such systems having
different units employed to indicate fineness are called Yarn Numbering Systems. There are two
types of systems & they are;

1. Direct System ( Mass per unit length)

2. Indirect System (Length per unit Mass)
01. Direct System

a. Tex System
This system represents the weight in grams per 1000 m length (1000m weight in grams)

b. Denier System
This system represents the weight in grams per 9000m (9000m weight in grams)

02. Indirect System

a. Count System (Ne)

In this system, count refers to the number of hank (01 hank equals to 840 yards) in one pound. This
system called as English system as well.

b. Metric System (Nm)

Here it is The number of unit length of 1000 m is 1 kilogram.

Table of Yarn Numbering

Numbering
Yarn Type System Standard Length Standard Weight Count

Cotton English Hank (840 yds.) 01 pound Hanks / lb

Cotton Metric Kilometer 01 Kilogram Km / kg

Woolen English Skein (256 yds) 01 Pound Skeins / lb

Linen Wet Spun Hank (300 yds) 01 Pound Hanks / lb

Spun Rayon English Hank (840 yds) 01 Pound Hanks / lb

Cotton Yarn Manufacturing Process:

In here we have discussed the process of cotton yarn manufacturing. The Initial stage of the Spinning
Process involves converting Cotton in Bales into the Cone Winding.

Bale Opening
↓
Blow Room
↓
Carding
 Below mentioned is how the Man-made Fibers manufacturing Process.

Bale Opening
↓
Conditioning of MMF Fibers
↓
Blending
↓
Blow Room
↓
Carding
↓
Drawing 1
↓
Drawing 2 (with Auto Leveler)
↓
Speed Frame
↓
Ring Frame
↓
Cone Winding

First thing in Spinning Process is converting highly compressed Cotton in Bales into the form of
thoroughly loosened, opened & cleaned State.

These Steps of processing are carried out in the Blow Room of a Spinning Mill. First stage of
Spinning involves converting lightly compressed Cotton bales into the form of Opened & Cleaned
Fibre Flocks.

01. Blow Room

At this process the Fibres in Bale form will be loosen, opened & cleaned. This is the starting stage of
Spinning Process. There are three actions happen in Blow room machine. They are ;

1. Action of Opposing Spikes

2. Action of Air Current
3. Action of Beaters.
1. Action of Opposing Spikes
 Action of Opposing Spikes

The spikes of the evener roller lattice, pick up matted lumps of cotton & take them to the top of the
lattice. At this point, they are met by series of spikes of the evener roller. Evener roller rotates in the
clockwise direction so that spikes on it oppose any further passage of cotton. Here striking of cotton
by spikes of the evener roller takes place, while being held by spikes of evener Lattice. Thereby a
rough combing action also takes place. The spiked Lattice takes part of the cotton with it, while
evener roller knocks the remained back, into the hopper. Hopper is a box like room in which the
evener lattice is mounted. By this action, the size of the matted cotton lumps is reduced & only a
portion on spikes is allowed to go forward. Fiber hanging one roller & lattice spikes are pulled in
opposing directions & this pulling.

2. Action of Air Currents

Action of Air Currents

The fan, which is situated at A would blow air through the duct B. This would tend to create a vaccum
in the trunk C. Air can enter the system only at position D. A low pressure near vaccum is created
inside C. This would result in air rushing through D due to atmospheric being higher than that inside
the trunck C. The shirley wheel consists of a section of ducting by the insertion of a rotating
perforated disc. This disc or wheel rotates at about 70 rpm. This is used to separate cotton, On
reaching the Shirley wheel, the air is able to pass through the perforations in the wheel causes the
cotton is arrested & dropped into the space below. The rotation of the wheel causes the cotton to be
carried downwards through a lightly spring loaded control flap E. Cotton falls freely under gravity.
The fine dust passes with the air through the perforations of the wheel. This is then discharged with
air to the dust settling chamber or dust filtration system.

3. Action of Beaters
This is the action that is mostly responsible for removing impurities of Cotton in the Blow Room.
Cotton fibres can be subjected to the striking action of Beaters in the following ways.

 Striking the Cotton while being carried by Air Currents.

 Striking the Cotton while being held by a pair of feed rollers or paddles & pedal rollers.
02. Carding
Carding is one of the most important operations in the spinning process as it directly determines the
final features of the yarn, above all as far as the content of neps and husks are concerned. There are
many objectives of the carding process and these can be summarized as:

 Opening the tufts into individual Fibres.

 Eliminating all the impurities contained in the Fibre that were not eliminated in the previous
cleaning operations.
 Selecting the Fibres on the basis of length, removing the shortest ones.
 Removal of neps.
 Parallelizing and stretching of the Fibre.
 Transformation of the lap into a sliver, therefore into a regular mass of untwisted Fibre.

Carding Machine Diagram

And in this action you can see two actions. They are;

1. Carding Action
2. Stripping Action
1. Carding Action
When two close surfaces have opposite wire direction and their speed direction or relative motion is
also opposite. Then the action between two surfaces is called carding action.

Functions:

 It is occurred between flats and cylinder.

 Maximum individualization of fibers is achieved in this region.
 Naps short fibers dirt and dust are removed by this action.
 There always should be point against point action.
 Carding Action

2. Stripping Action
When two close surfaces have same wire direction and their speed direction or relative motion is
opposite then the action between two surfaces is called stripping action.

Functions:

1. It is occurred between licker in and cylinder.

2. There are should be point against back action.
3. Individualization of Fibre is also by this action.
03. Draw Frame
This is the machine on which drafting & doubling are carried out. Carded sliver is that they are not
even (uniform) enough to produce to good quality yarns. Therefore, usually all the carded slivers are
subjected to Doubling & Drafting on a machine called “Draw Frame”.

Doubling is the practice of feeding two or more strands to produce one Strand. To attenuate fiber laps
to slivers, Drafting is carried out. Different methods are used to draft sliver or yarn. One method is
called “Roller Drafting”. During drafting the number of fibers in the cross section of the sliver or lap
is reduce.

Draw frame

Tasks of Draw frame

1. Equalizing
2. Parallelizing
3. Blending
Equalizing: One of the main tasks of draw frame is improving evenness over short, medium and
especially long terms. Carded slivers are fed to the draw frame have degree on unevenness that cannot
be tolerated in practice and slivers from the comber contain the “infamous” piecing. It is obscured by
draw frame.

Equalizing is always performed by a first process, namely doubling and can optionally also be
performed by a second process, namely auto leveling. The draft and the doubling have the same value
and lie in the range of 6 to 8.

Parallelizing: To obtain an optional value for strength in the yarn characteristics, the fibers must be
arranged parallel in the fiber strand. The draw frame has the tasks of creating this parallel
arrangement. It fulfills the task by way of the draft, since every drafting step leads to straightening the
fibers.

Blending: In addition to the equalizing effect, doubling also provides a degree of compensation of
raw material variation by blending. Their results are exploited in particular way in the production of
blended yarns comprising cotton or synthetic blends. At the draw frame metering of the individual
components can be carried out very simply be selection of the number of slivers entering the
machines.

04. Roving Frame / Speed Frame

The product delivered by roving machines is called Roving. Roving is a Fibre strand of lesser count
than that of a sliver. It is also has a small twist to keep Fibres together. It is wound on to a package
which is suitable for feeding spinning machines.

Objectives of speed frame

1. Attenuation of draw sliver to a suitable size for spinning.

2. To insert a small amount of twist to strengthen the roving.
3. To wind the twisted strand roving into a bobbin.
Operation involved in speed frame:

1. Drafting
2. Twisting
3. Winding
Drafting:
To reduce the weight /unit length of sliver to make it suitable for ring spinning system.

Twisting:
To insert small amount of twist to give required strength of roving.

Winding:
To wind the twisted roving on to bobbin.
 Roving frame

05. Combing
Combing is a process which is introduced into the spinning of finer and high quality yarns from
cotton. The carded materials (sliver) contain certain amount of short fibres, neps, fine kitty and leaf
particles. Short fibres are a hindrance to spinning of finer counts where the number of fibre in the
cross section of the yarn is less. The short fibres cause thick and uneven places in the yarn length and
the yarn looks hairy. Apart from this, very short fibres do not contribute anything to yarn strength.
Short fibres below a certain pre-determined length can be easily separated out by using comber.

Objects of Comber:

1. To remove the short fibres below a pre-selected length so that the spinner enable to produce finer
or better quality of yarn that cannot be possible in carding state.
2. Elimination of remaining impurities.
3. Elimination of large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fibre.
4. Formation of sliver having maximum possible evenness.
5. To straighten the fibres.
Basic Principle of a Comber (Combing sequence/Cycle):
One article has written about basic principle of a comber. So here only title of comber principle is
given below.

1. Lap feeding by feed roller

2. Lap nipping by the nipper
3. Combing by the cylinder
4. Nipper opening and forwarding
5. Detaching roller backward movement
6. Piecing
7. Combing by the top comb
8. Detaching roller forward movement
9. Starting a new cycle
10. Cleaning of cylinder comb

Combing machine diagram

06. Ring Frame

The ring spinning machine was first invented in 1828 by the American Thorp. In 1830, another
American scientist, Jenk, contributed the traveler rotating on the ring. There have been many
development has done in ring spinning machine for the last years but the basic concept remained
unchanged.

Ring spinning machine

Functions of ring frame:

1. Draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved

2. Twist the drafted strand to form yarn of required count and strength
3. Winding the twisted yarn on to the bobbin for suitable storage, transportation and further
processing.
Operations involved in ring frame:

1. Creeling
2. Drafting
3. Twisting
4. Winding
5. Building
6. Doffing
Some other modern spinning systems:

1. Open end rotor spinning system

2. Air Jet spinning system
3. Friction spinning system
4. Wrap spinning system
Advantage of Ring Spinning System:

1. Any type of material (Fibre) can be spun

2. Wide range of count can be processed
3. It delivers a yarn with optimum characteristics.
4. Idealized twisting system
5. It is uncomplicated and easy to operate
6. Higher yarn strength can be achieved
Disadvantages of Ring Spinning System:

1. Low production
2. Machine generates more heat
Limitations:
In ring spinning machine twisting and winding are done simultaneously. That’s why the power
consumption is higher.

07. Cone Winding

This is the final stage in Spinning & that is Cone Winding. As nowadays good winding is the mirror
of spinning mills, it is necessary that this process is understood very well by all the personnel
handling the department. Yarn winding can thus be viewed as simply being a packaging process,
forming a link between the last few elements of yarn manufacturing and the first element of fabric
manufacturing process. Improper utilisation of the features of the winding machine can not only cost
heavily to the spinning mills, but it can also lead to loss of good customers permanently.

Cone Winding Machine

Yarn Twist | Relationship Between Yarn Count and Twist |

Principles of Twist Measuring Methods
Yarn Twist:
In the manufacture of staple fibre yarns, twist is inserted into the fine strand of fibres to hold the fibres
together and impart the desired properties to the twisted yarns. Without twist, the fine strand of fibres
would be very weak and of little practical use. A change in the level of twist also changes many yarn
properties, such as strength and softness.

Definition:
Twist may be defined as the spiral disposition of the components of a thread which is usually the
result of relative rotation of the two ends. Twist is generally expressed as the number of turns per unit
length of yarn, e.g. turns per inch (tpi), turns per metre (tpm), etc.

What exactly does twist to a yarn?

1. The twist in a yarn binds the fibres together and helps to keep them in the respective positions. It
thus gives coherence to yarn.
2. Twist gives sufficient strength to the yarn.
3. Twist is also used to bring about novel effects that are prominently visible when the yarn is
converted to fabric. This is achieved primarily by having a combination of yarns with different
twist levels and twist directions in the fabric.
Nature of Twist:

Types of Twist:
There are two types of twist: real twist and false twist.

Real twist:
To insert a real twist into a length of yarn, one end of the yarn should be rotated relative to the other
end, as indicated in figure (a).

Spun yarns usually have real twist, which holds the fibres together in the yarn.

False twist:
When inserting false twist into a length of yarn, both ends of the yarn are clamped, usually by rollers,
and twist is inserted with a false twister between the clamping points, as indicated in figure (b).

If the yarn is not traversing along its axis, the twist will be in opposite directions above and below the
false twister. If the false twister is removed, the opposite twists will cancel out one another, leaving no
real twist in the length of yarn. If the yarn is traversing along its axis, then the section of the yarn
moving away from the false twister would have no net twist, as indicated in figure (b).

False twisting is a very important phenomenon, which has considerable practical implications in yarn
technology.
 Figure: Real twisting and false twisting

Twist Direction:
A twist can be either in Z direction or S direction as indicated in the following figure, depending on
the orientation of the surface fibre in relation to yarn axis.

Fig. : Twist direction

It is worth noting that twist direction affects fabric properties. For example, following Figure shows
two identical twill-weave fabrics with the warp yarn of different twist direction. Fabric A will be more
lustrous than fabric B, because light reflected by fibres in the warp and weft is in the same direction.
Fabric A will be softer while fabric B firmer, because in Fabric B, the surface fibres on the warp and
weft in the region of contact are aligned in the same direction and they may ‘get stuck’ inside each
other and reduce the mobility of the intersection. Whereas for fabric A, the surface fibres on the warp
and weft in the region of contact are crossed over, and they can move about easily. The freedom of
movement at the yarn intersections is the key for fabric softness.
 Fig. : Effect of twist direction on fabric properties

Self-locking Effect:
Because of twist in a yarn, the fibres on yarn surface take a roughly helical configuration around the
yarn. When the yarn is under tension, these surface fibres are also under tension. However, because of
the helical configuration, part of the tension is diverted radially, which creates a radial pressure. This
is illustrated in the following figure.

The radial pressure tends to pack the fibres together, increasing the normal force between them, and
so increasing their frictional resistance to slipping past each other. The more tension is applied to the
yarn, the more it locks together, hence 'self-locking'. An analogy is, when you wind a string around
your arm, as you pull the string along the arm and away from each other, the string bites deeper into
the flesh.

Without twist, there won’t be any self-locking effect to prevent fibre slippage. Consequently
the yarn would have no strength.

Relationship Between Yarn Count and Twist:

From figure, we get,

(Where ɵ= twist angle, d= yarn diameter and L= yarn length)

Also from figure, the height (pitch) of one turn of twist is L. Since the twist level is normally
specified as the number of turns per metre, the twist level in one metre of the yarn would be:

We also know from experience that yarn diameter is also very hard to measure, because
textile yarns by their very nature are soft and squashy. On the other hand, yarn count is
normally used as we have discussed in the first topic of this module. But we can relate yarn
diameter to yarn count using the expression below:
Thus, K is a factor relating twist level to yarn count. The derivation shows that if two yarns
have the same twist factor, they will have the same surface twist angle, regardless of count.
Since surface twist angle is the main factor determining yarn character, then twist factor can
be used to define the character of a yarn.

It is worth noting though there are minor errors associated with the use of twist factor for the
following reasons:

 The cubic density may be different for different yarns. It is assumed in the above
calculation that this will not change for yarns of the same surface twist angle.
 Different fibres with different frictional and other properties will create different yarn
character.
Nevertheless, the relationship we have just derived between twist, twist factor and yarn count
is one of the most important in the study of yarn technology. This relationship is expressed in
different ways for different yarn count systems.

For the tex system:

Please note the unit for twist is also different in the above expressions of twist factor. In
addition, twist factor is also known as twist multiplier, twist alpha, or twist coefficient.

Angle of Twist:
The yarn twist angle is the angle between a tangent to the helix formed by a fibre on the yarn
surface and the yarn axis. If the twist multiplier of a cotton yarn is known, the twist angle can
be easily calculated.

Factors Affecting Twist:

The twist introduced in the yarn during spinning depends upon a number of factors, such as
follows:

1. The count of yarn to be spun

2. The quality of cotton used
3. The use to which the yarn is put- is the yarn meant to be used as warp yarn or weft yarn,
knitting yarn or any other yarn?
4. The fineness of the fibre being spun
5. The softness of the fabric into which the yarn is to be converted
The Distribution of Twist in Staple Spun Yarns:
If someone twists your head, it is your neck that suffers most. That is because the neck is a
‘thin’ place and offers little resistance to being twisted. By analogy, if a yarn of varying
thickness is twisted, it is usually the thin spot in the yarn that gets twisted the most.
Invariably, yarns spun from staple fibres (eg. wool, cotton) are not perfectly uniform, and
there are thick and thin spots along the yarn length. This variation in yarn thickness will lead
to variation in the twist level along the yarn length, because twist tends to accumulate in the
thin place.

The fact that twist tends to accumulate in the thin spot along the yarn has several important
implications:

1. It exacerbates the variation in yarn linear density

While variation in yarn linear density is the fundamental cause of twist variation,
concentration of twist in the thin places will make those places even thinner, exacerbating the
problem of yarn unevenness.

2. It improves the evenness of a fibre assembly during “drafting against twist”

In the drafting stage of woollen ring spinning, the woollen slubbing is drafted while twist is
inserted into the slubbing (drafting against twist) to control fibres during drafting. Because
twist tends to accumulate in the thin spots, the fibres in thin regions in the slubbing are more
difficult to draft than those in the thick places, which have less twist. As a result, the thick
places are drafted more than the thin places, thus improving the evenness of the drafted
material. This is depicted in following figure.

Figure: 'Drafting against twist' improves evenness

3. It has implication for twist measurements
Because the twist level varies along the yarn length, the twist measured at a short length of
yarn may not reflect the true average twist of the yarn. Standard test procedures should be
followed to measure the yarn twist accurately.

The relationship between twist and yarn count may be expressed by the following formula:

Where,
p is usually greater than 1 but less than 2 for most yarns.

Twist Contraction:
When a bundle of parallel fibres is twisted, the distance between the two ends of a fibre will
decrease, particularly for fibres near the surface of the twisted bundle. As a result, the overall
length of the twisted bundle is shorter than its length before twist insertion. The reduction in
length due to twist insertion is known as twist contraction.

The following formula is used to calculate the amount of twist contraction:

Where,
Lo = original length before twisting
Lf = final length after twisting

It should be noted that because of twist contraction and the associated change in length, the
count of a yarn will change slightly when twist in the yarn is changed. Twist contraction
increases yarn count (tex), because the weight of the yarn is distributed over a shorter length.
The following formula can be used
Where,
No = count (tex) before twisting
Nf = count (tex) after twisting
C = %contraction

Measurement of Twist:
Twist measurement is a routine test for yarns. Because of the variation in twist along yarn
length, care should be taken in measuring the twist of staple spun yarns. Some basic
principles are discussed here.

Sampling Rules:
The following rules should be observed when measuring yarn twist:

1. Tests should not be limited to a short length of the yarn package.

2. Beware of "operator bias" - tendency to select either thicker or thinner regions. Taking
samples at fixed intervals along the yarn length will reduce the bias.
3. Discard first few metres from package. Being a free end, it could have lost twist.
4. Remove yarn from side of package, not over end. Removing yarn over end will change
the twist level in the yarn.
5. Tension in Yarn during test e.g. For single worsted yarns: 5 + 1 mN/tex
Principles of Twist Measuring Methods:
The two common methods used in twist measurement are straightened fibre method and
untwist/retwist method.

(1) Straightened Fibre Method:

This method involves counting of the number of turns required to untwist the yarns until the
surface fibres appear to be straight and parallel to yarn axis. This method is mainly used for
ply and continuous filament yarns.

(2) Untwist / Retwist Method:

This is the common method used for staple fibre yarns. It is based on twist contraction (hence
also known as twist contraction method).

For this method, it is assumed that the contraction in length, due to insertion of twist, is the
same for both direction of twist (S and Z). Suppose we want to measure the twist level in a
yarn with Z twist, the yarn is first untwisted (by a twist tester), and a counter on the twist
tester will record the number of turns. During untwisting, the yarn would increase in length
from its original length L to a new length L’. If the operation is continued, the yarn would
have its twist completely removed first and then twisted up again in S direction. As the yarn
gets twisted, its length will decrease (twist contraction) from L’ towards its original length L.
When its original length is reached, the total number of turns received by the yarn, as
recorded by the counter on the twist tester, would be equal to twice the twist in the original
yarn (with a length of L).

Automatic twist testers are now available, such as the Zweigle automatic twist tester.

Count Conversion of Yarn