100 Must-Know Terms for Fashion

Entrepeneurs

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WELCOME >>> And even if they did, I had no idea what they were
talking about!

Hi, I’m Vicki, founder of The Fashion Business >>> And the designs never came out like I pictured.
Coach. Thank you so much for joining this Maybe this sounds familiar?
community alongside thousands of other keen
fashion entrepreneurs. I’m excited to pass on Fast forward a few years and I’ve successfully
the knowledge that produced thousands of items without the stress that I
I’ve gained during my used to associate with making clothing.
16 years in the fashion Plus, I’ve been able to do this profitably, so my client’s
industry. can earn a living and go from having a day job they
I’ve been lucky enough hate, to running their very own fashion business.
to work for brands both Perhaps that’s something you would like too? If so,
large and small (incluing stick with me and I’ll teach you everything I know!
my own label) and in a
Keen to learn more about how I can help you? Let me
variety of roles too, so I
know what you’re struggling with and if it’s something I
can give you the overview
can help with, we can arrange a free clarity call;
that you need of the
entire process from initial idea through to having
your products made and sold. CLICK HERE TO GET
The fashion industry can be super secretive and IN TOUCH
I wanted to change that. When I first started
my fashion business, there wasn’t any resources Thanks again for joining the community! Keep an eye
around and it was tough. on your inbox for more helpful content on it’s way to
you soon.
>>> Suppliers wouldn’t reply to me
Best, Vicki
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CHA P T ER 1

Production &
Garment
Technology

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 • Ad sample

Advertising or marketing sample, used in catwalk

shows and campaign photoshoots.
PRODUCTION AND GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
• AH
• This category has the most terms as it
Armhole. You’ll often see this used in tech packs
can be especially tricky for people who
are new to the fashion industry. • Block

This is a base pattern and often the starting point

for a new or updated design. A block is a shape that
fits the target customer well and often has a proven
sales record

• BOM

Bill of materials. Contains important information

needed by the factory to make samples. See also
‘tech pack’.

• Bulk

Your order of garments - the stock the factory has

made to your requirements. When doing sample
fittings, you may use the phrase ‘approved to bulk’,
which means the sample has passed inspection and
you are happy to proceed with your order as per the
sample.

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• CB
Centre back of the garment
• CF
Centre front of the garment
• Colour standard
A colour standard is either a piece of fabric or colour
reference number (like the one shown in the image
below) that the dye mill will use to match the colour
that you would like for your range, to the fabric they
dye for you. This is helpful in maintaining a consistent
colour across different styles in the range and also
various components, such as thread and zips to
make sure they match and look good together.
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• COO
Country of origin. Some countries have legal
requirements regarding the origin of a garment
and the information must be on the labels. Some
countries even specify the size and position of the
label.
• Critical path
A document used to monitor the progress of
production and keep a record of samples received.
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT SAMPLE
MANAGEMENT?
I’d love to help you! I work with lots of brands
and help them to get from idea through to
prodcution ready. Click to get in touch and
find out how.
• CS
Coverstitch. A stitching technique often seen on the
hem of garments made from a stretch fabric.
5
• DNTS
Double needle topstitch. A good example of this
can be found on a standard pair of jeans, where the
thread is often in a contrasting, decorative colour.
• DTM
Dye to match. This will most commonly be seen on
a tech pack where there is a request for trims such
as the thread to be dyed to match the colour of the
main fabric.
• Ex-factory
This is the date the stock will leave the factory.
When talking to factories be really clear about which
date you mean. For example, the ex-factory date
will be different to the shipping date as it can take
several days for the stock to reach the port and be
processed.
• Fit model
An employee or freelancer who will maintain the same
body measurements and who has the measurements
of your average customer. The fit model will try on
any fit samples from the factory, so you can assess
the fit and decide if it is suitable for your customer.
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• Fit sample
A garment sent from the factory so you can check
the fit on your fit model and so you can see how all
of the elements, such as fabric, trims and styling
work together. You will receive several fit samples
at various times, you will make comments on each
sample so the factory can perfect the design until it
is approved by you.
• Fits or fit session
A meeting involving the fit model, garment technician
and designer or buyer. The purpose of the meeting
is for the model to try on the garments and improve
the fit of any samples. The garment technologist will
make notes and feed back to the factory on changes
that need to be made, or things that have been
approved.
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE FITTING
PROCESS?
Get in touch by clicking here to learn
how I can help you with your garment
development.
6
• Fully fashioned
Knitwear can be made in the same way as other
clothes (by cutting out fabric and sewing it together),
or it can be fully fashioned, meaning it is constructed
entirely on knitting machines.
• Garment dye
A process where colour is applied to a garment after
it has been made, rather than dying the fabric before
it is cut out.
assess the weight of a fabric. The weight of the fabric
is usually included on fabric swatches you receive and
also on quotes.
• GWR
Garment work sheet. Can sometimes be in reference
to a tech pack, but could also mean a one page
document with basic information such as the fabric,
trims, delivery date and size range.
• Handloom

• GG This could either be in reference to a fabric sample

made by hand to show an example of the finished
Gauge. It refers to a ‘Knitting Machine’s fineness size’.
fabric design, or the machine used to make the
It relates to the number of stitches per inch, not the
sample; a handloom is made by a handloom! The
size of the finished garment.
handloom fabric is sent so you can approve woven
• Grading or grade rules fabrics for colour, construction and design before the
bulk fabric is made.
Grading means the difference of measurements
between sizes. ‘Grade rules’ can be found on spec
sheets and will advise on the difference between the
measurements of each point on the measurement
chart.

• GSM

Grams per square metre. This is a measurement to

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• HSP tech pack, where a technical drawing of the garment
can be found with arrows and letters to indicate
High shoulder point. This is a point of measure often
different points of measure (see example diagram
referred to to on a tech pack.
below)
• KD

Knitdown. This is a knit fabric that the factory

submits for knit structure, design and layout
approval.

• LD

Lab dip. This is a very small piece of fabric the

factory send for colour approval. You would match
the colour to your colour standard and either approve
it (meaning the bulk fabric would be dyed), or give the
factory comments on how to improve it.

• LS

Lockstitch. The most common stitch, created with a

single needle. NOT SURE HOW TO CREATE A
• LSP TECH PACK AND WORK WITH
A SUPPLIER? GET IN TOUCH
Low shoulder point. This is a point of measure often BY CLICKING HERE TO LEARN
referred to on a spec sheet. HOW I CAN HELP.
• POM

Point of measure. This is most commonly seen on a

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• PPS main stock is ready, so some samples are made in
advance with all of the correct fabrics and trims and
Pre production sample. This is a type of fit sample,
the buyer will place orders based on this.
that is seen after the initial sample phase has been
approved. The PPS is the last stage before bulk • Size break
production starts, so the sample must have all the
The ratio of each size that has been ordered - how
correct fabric, trims and prints and should measure
the final order quantity is split over all of the sizes
correctly so final checks can be made.
that have been produced.

SN
• SO
Single needle. A stitch created with only one needle.
Strike off. This is a sample of printed fabric that has
• SNTS
been sent for approval. It is to check the quality of
the print, the size and the colours. You can either Single needle topstich. A finishing stitch that is done
approve the print and bulk will be made, or you can with one needle. This can often be decorative, in a
give the factory improvements to make and they will contrast stitch colour.
send another SO.
• SPI/SPC

• SA Stitches per inch/stitches per centimetre.

SS
Seam allowance. The amount of fabric left between
the edge of the fabric and the stitch line. Shipping sample. The last fit sample that is received.
This is from the production line (usually one of the
• Salesman sample
first garments off of the line) and is sent prior to
A sample used by the sales team to show buyers. The
sales team usually start pitching to buyers before the

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shipping. This is to ensure that the garments have pack and sent to the factory or pattern cutter so
been produced as expected. they can clearly see the shape of the garment.

OR • Tolerance

SS can also mean sideseam. Both uses of SS will be
found on tech packs, but the meaning should always
be clear depending on the context.
• Tech pack
A working document the factory uses to make the
garments. It contains detailed information about
measurements, fabrics and construction techniques.
These are updated by you after your fit sessions to
communicate any updates or improvements required
from the factory.
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT TECH PACKS?
You can find the free article, ‘What is a Tech
Pack and Why do I Need One’ by Clicking
here.
The amount the measurements of a particular part of
a garment can vary from what has been requested,
without there being a penalty. For example, if a
measurement should be 40 and the tolerance is 1, a
garment measuring 39 or 41 would be accepted.
• UOM
Unit of measure
• Wash
A finish that is applied to a fabric for a particular look
or performance feature. For example, denim can be
washed to create different colour variation, or jersey
can be enzyme washed to make it softer.

• Tech sketch/technical drawing

A detailed drawing that shows the garment laid

out flat, front and back with any stitch details or
embellishments shown. These are included in the tech

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WANT TO LEARN
MORE ABOUT
MANUFACTURE
AND GO FROM
IDEA TO FACTORY
READY?

CLICK HERE TO GET IN TOUCH AND

FIND OUT HOW I CAN HELP YOU

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CHA P T ER 2

Fabric
Terminology

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 • Bias Grain

Cutting the fabric at a 45-degree angle across the

fabric surface

• Bonded

Putting two fabrics together using heat or a binding

agent.

• Converter

A textile mill that will convert undyed fabric into a

finished fabric that has been dyed or printed.

• Crocking

When a fabric looses it’s colour from a rubbing action.

FABRIC TERMINOLOGY
• This section covers some terms that
you’ll come across during conversations
with fabric suppliers.
• Embossing
Adding indentations to the surface of a fabric by
applying heat and pressure.

• Basic fabric information that’s really • Fibre

important is the GSM and whether it’s a Small hair like strands which can be made from
knit or a woven, so be sure to check out a variety of sources, including both natural and
those definitions. manufactured.

• Grain line

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The orientation of pattern pieces on the fabric that • Jacquard
suits the style of the design.
Can be a knitted or woven type of fabric with a
• Greige design created within the fabric.

Fabric that has not yet been dyed. You may purchase • Jobbers
greige fabric if you have several styles in the same
Sales agent that buys leftover and/or defective
fabrication, but want to dye them different colours. By
fabrics from fabric mills at low prices and sells on to
buying the greige, you get the benefit of discounted
customers, usually at a low volume.
prices for placing a larger order, but still have the
option to dye the colour that you’d like. You could • Knit
even dye some fabric and leave some for a later date.
One or more yarns looped together to create a fabric
such as jersey, used to make tshirts.

• Mercerised

A fabric finish that uses chemicals to apply strength

and improved dyeability.

• Nap Direction

The shading that occurs on brushed or sheared

fabrics. For example, on fabrics like velvet.
• GSM
• Piece
Grams per square metre. This is a measurement to
assess the weight of a fabric. The weight of the fabric A roll of fabric, length varies between suppliers.
is usually included on fabric swatches you receive and
• Progressive shrinkage
also on quotes.

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Fabric continues to shrink throughout it’s life. A continuous strand composed of fibres.

• Selvedge • Yarn mill

Edges of the fabric parallel with the straight grain Company who produce yarns from raw materials.
direction.

• Stock fabrics

This is a fabric that has been purchased from a

fabric supplier from their range, rather than a fabric
that had been custom made to your specifications.

• Stock market

An industry market that factories go to. Here the

fabric mills display fabric options they have available
and the factory will source fabrics from here. There’s
various different markets in different parts of China.
• Textile mill
• YD
Yarn dye. A method of colouring fabric where the yarn
is dyed, then knitted to create the fabric, rather than
the fabric being dyed.

Company who produce fabrics. Usually they

specialise in either knits or wovens.

• Woven

Process for constructing fabric where different

threads are interlaced at 90-degree angles.

• Yarn

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CH A P TER 3

Factory Sourcing

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FACTORY SOURCING
• I won’t sugarcoat it, finding a factory can
be tough, especially if you’re ordering a
small amount (and by small I mean less
than 300pcs per colour and style).
• When dealing with a factory for the first
time, it can often feel like they’re talking
another language, so make sure you
familiarise yourself with the terms in this
section.
• A word of warning...unfortunately some
factories try to take advantage of new
brands and will include hidden charges.
Be sure to clarify any details in your
quote to ensure that you’re getting what
you expected. I find it best to list out
everything needed for a production run
and get the factory to confirm which
items they’ll pay for.
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• AF
Airfrieght; form of transporting goods
• Agent
Sometimes know as the selling agent, this is a middle
man between the brand and the factory. They charge
a fee and get a percentage of all sales, but they have
factory contacts and take some of the risk.
• BOL
Bill of Lading. A detailed list of a ship’s cargo in the
form of a receipt given by the master of the ship
to the person consigning the goods. Often used by
factories to prove that goods have been made and
sent.
• Booking space
You may pre-book space in the factory, to help
with delivery time frames. This means that you are
reserving space in a factory’s production line, without
having confirmed a style to make.
• Cartons
Packaging used to transport the bulk stock. Often
your freight forwarder and distributor will have
17
guidelines on what to include on the box.

• CMT
• Critical Path
Cut, make and trim. Can refer to a factory’s
A document that varies from company to company,
capabilities (ie they can cut the fabric, make the
but often includes all of the styles currently going
garments and provide and trims). But it can also be a
through production and the stage they’re at. Also
quote for cutting the material, making the garments
known as a WIP.
with trims such as thread included. This often means
the quote is without fabric, shipping or techniques • DDP
such as printing and dying colours. Always check any
Delivered duty paid. This is a term that may come up
inclusions with the factory.
when you receive quotes for production. This usually
• CNY means that the price includes the garments, fabric,
trims and the stock will be delivered to you, with the
Chinese New Year. Factories in China close for up to
import tax paid by the factory. Always check any
8 weeks, in January and/or February - no production
inclusions with the factory.
or sampling will happen during this time.
• Duty

• Colourway This is a form of tax, charged by the country the

goods are being transported from and/or to. The
When creating your range you have ‘styles’ and
amount of tax can vary a lot between countries and
‘options’.
can also depend on the amount being shipped and
The ‘style’ is a particular design, but may be available the type of product.
in different colours. The ‘options’ are the different
colours the ‘style’ is available in and each different
colour combination is sometimes referred to as a
‘colourway’.

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• FCL
Full container load. When dealing with a shipping
agent you can request a full shipping container if you
have a lot of stock to ship, which usually means you
get a better price.
• FF
Freight forwarder. A company who can arrange
transport for your stock and customs clearance on
your behalf.
• FOB
Free on Board (or Freight on Board). This may come
up when you receive quotes from suppliers. It usually
means that the cost of delivering the goods to the
nearest port are included, as well as the costs to
manufacture the clothes. It does not include shipping
or any other fees such as taxes, duty and insurance.
Always check any inclusions with the factory.
• Landed
This is the cost of a product after everything has
been paid for - the materials, the production, delivery
and any duty/taxes. You would use this number to
calculate your GP and create sales and profit targets.
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• LCL
Less than a container load. If you only have a small
amount of stock to ship, it will be too expensive
to buy a whole shipping container. Therefore, your
freight forwarder will combine your goods with
another customer’s to fill a container and your
portion of the goods will be ‘less than a container
load’.
• Lead time
The amount of time between confirming your order
with the factory and you receiving the final goods at
your distribution centre.
• MOQ
Minimum order quantity. This applies to various
things, such as the minimum amount of garments
a factory is prepared to produce, or the minimum
amount of fabric, trims or labels you’re allowed to buy
Sometimes you can get around MOQs by paying a
surcharge.
• Option
When creating your range you have ‘styles’ and
‘options’. The ‘style’ is a particular design, but may
19
be available in different colours. The ‘options’ are the
different colours the ‘style’ is available in.
WANT TO
LEARN MORE
• Salesman sample

A sample used by the sales team to show buyers. The

sales team usually start pitching to buyers before the
main stock is ready, so some samples are made in ABOUT
MANUFACTURE
advance with all of the correct fabrics and trims and
the buyer will place orders based on this.

• SF

Sea freight. A method of transporting the bulk stock.

AND GO
• Size break FROM IDEA
The ratio of each size that has been ordered - how
the final order quantity is split over all of the sizes TO FACTORY
READY?
that have been produced.

• Style

When creating your range you have ‘styles’ and

‘options’. The ‘style’ is a particular design, but may CLICK HERE TO GET
be available in different colours. The ‘options’ are the IN TOUCH AND FIND
different colours the ‘style’ is available in.
OUT HOW I CAN
HELP YOU

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CHA P T ER 4

Fashion
Business

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FASHION BUSINESS
• If you’re reading this, chances are
you’re new to business. The terms in
this section aren’t fashion specific, but
they’re commonly used phrases within
the business world.
• You may not encounter these when
speaking to people, but if you’re
reading any information on business
or marketing, chances are you’ll come
across these terms at some point.
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• B2B
Business to business. For example, selling your
products wholesale to another company who will sell
on to their own customers.
• B2C
Business to consumer. For example, selling products
via your website directly to customers.
• CRM
Customer relationship manager - often a software
which is used to keep track of your customer base.
• DM
Direct mail, or direct message.
• EBITDA
Earnings Before Interest, Taxes, Depreciation and
Amortisation. This is, in a lot of ways, the only number
that matters and is the amount of profit or loss your
company has made, before taxes. In order to have a
successful business, this number must be a positive.
It is usually calculated at the end of the financial
year.
• EOD
22
End of the day. Often used as a deadline. • ROI

• Forward cover Return on investment - often used to evaluate the

performance of advertising spend, as well as product
This refers to buying foreign currency in advance
costs.
to lock in the exchange rate. This could be to take
advantage of a good rate, or to ensure that when you
pay for the garments (often 6 months after plans are
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT FASHION
put in place), the amount you are paying is as per
MARKETING?
your plan.
I love helping Client’s to get their brand
• GMROI
out there, get more customers and get
Gross Margin Return on Investment more sales. Click here to find out how I
• GP can help.

Gross profit. This means the price the customer paid

for the product, minus tax and production/shipping • W/C
costs. It doesn’t take into account other expenses
Week commencing
such as wages or the cost of running a shop.
• WTD
• KPI
Week to date - often seen on sales or website traffic
Key performance indicator, used to establish whether
reports
a project or individual is performing well.
• YTD
• POS
Year to date - often seen on sales or website traffic
Point of sale, like a till or cash register
reports

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Would a clear plan for your fashion brand help
you move forward with more confidence?
As a new entrepreneur, I’m sure you feel like you’ve got millions of questions. But, if you stop
for a moment to really break them down, you’ll start to see that there are just a couple of
key things that are stopping you from moving forward with your business.

Answer this: I’D LOVE TO

If those key HEAR FROM
quesions were
answered, would
YOU!
you finally feel CLICK HERE TO
ready to start
your business?
GET IN TOUCH
Nodding yes?
AND SEE HOW I
Good. Because the power CAN HELP YOU.
of these questions really is
the catalyst to your business
success.

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