Key Items: Men's Jewellery

S/S 23
Core and fashion updates come together in this report,
with nostalgic motifs, pearls, beads and embellishment
adding newness, and paving the way for gender-inclusive
designs

Jane Collins
11.10.21 · 4 minutes

Alan Crocetti
 The chain
Chains continue to be a focal point for men's
collections, with chunky
silhouettes trending
Use this wide silhouette to draw attention to
key detail and material updates, including
mixed metals, pavé and gem-set
embellished designs. See Central Saint
Martins' graduate Zak Sheinman's
collaboration with London-based Motley.
Influenced by old cartoons and the use of
inflatables as a form of playful protest,
@_pattaraphan_ @lorenstewart
Zak's designs feature puffed-up, contrasting
links that answer to # so volume and our
Maxi-minimalist chain theme
Play into # personalisation with monogram
initial charms, as seen in the gender-
inclusive designs of LA-based Loren Stewart

Motley x Zak Sheinman @hattonlabs @jilsander

1
 The bracelet
Wristwear remains a staple category for
men's collections, where chain profiles in
both chunky and finer scales allow for the
introduction of mixed metals, Maxi-
minimalist links, contrasting sections and
motif-driven # charms, ideal for Localcore
and Summer Nostalgia themes. The latter
was seen in the S/S 22 collaboration
between luxury Parisian label Dior and US
brand Cactus Jack
Adding newness to this category are heavily
@frederick.grove Matches/Completed Works
embellished jewelled styles that deliver
bright pops of colour and drive forward
narratives around # so masculinity. # Pearls
also continue to feature heavily, working in
tandem with chains or as interesting
components that will add a touch of
pearlescent shimmer

Dior x Cactus Jack @sergedenimes @bleueburnham

2
 The beaded necklace
In line with an industry striving towards
Visionary Design with gender-inclusive
collections, the beaded necklace is used to
add an unexpected touch to # workleisure
and streetwear-friendly ranges, including
Allclusive Clubhouse styles
Both # pearls and # beads are used to create
collar-length silhouettes. Strands or dipped
coloured pearls add newness and can be
used to reflect the season's Optimistic
Pastels and Dopamine Brights. Combine
@sergedenimes @politeworldwide
with utility-inspired links, as seen at London-
based Serge DeNimes. Alternatively, opt for
semi-precious beaded strands, calling out
the healing properties associated with the
stones, or add interesting glass or upcycled
bead components, ideal for Celebratory
Cra

Matches/Completed Works @panconesi @eliou__

3
 The earring
Studs, hoops and ear cuffs combine to
update earring assortments for S/S 23,
taking cues from women's collections and
the need for standalone statement styles or
curated sets
The front-back stud is a key profile, spotted
in the collections of French luxury jewellery
brand Boucheron and the gender-inclusive
styles of Austrian label Swarovski
Experiment with shapes, materials and
@alancrocetti @boucheron details. Extreme embellishment is key for
S/S 23, so introduce bright coloured
gemstones or transparent glass. # Charms
create easy updates for # hoops or consider
enamel-dipped finishes, seen at Italian
brand EÉRA, that answer to the season's
Strangely Beautiful materials theme.
Rubberised finishes and Kidult # motifs are
also important

@swarovski @eera Matches/Completed Works

4
 The pendant
Encouraging a positive message around
inclusivity and personal style, the everyday
pendant aligns with the growing demand for
gender-inclusive jewellery. This allows for
the further introduction of # pearls and
coloured gemstones, ready to respond to
the Extreme Embellishment theme
Work with colourful enamel and bead
components showcased on a wide variety of
chains. Also continue to expand on semi-
@eera Matches/Alan Crocetti
precious healing stones, introducing
turquoise and protective talisman symbols
Playful and nostalgic # motifs such as the
smiley are key and align with the season's
Kidult theme. # Foodinfashion icons are also
important for the Kitchenbody story, as seen
at Mexican label Studio Conchita

@studio.conchita @davidyurmanmen @panconesi

5
 The signet ring
The signet remains the prevailing ring style
for men's S/S 23 collections, with newness
added through premium materials and
details
Focus on mixed metals, colourful enamel,
jewelled stones and extreme
embellishment as surface updates, or work
into Monochrome Basics
Continue to experiment with the ring's face
shape, including round, oval, rectangular,
@ambush_of cial @othongthai square and diamond variations. London-
based Duffy explores a variety of shapes
The flat top of this style is the perfect blank
canvas for adding playful # motifs. Consider
introducing florals or align styles with the
season's Kidult theme, looking to the smiley
design of Bangkok-born-and-raised
jewellery designer, O Thongthai

@doverstreetmarketjewellery/Ca
stro Smith @duffyjewellery @tsaustore

6
1 234
Action points
Reinvent core staples
Classic silhouettes achieve hero status,
in line with S/S 23's Design-Wise
Forecast and Maxi-minimalist trend.
Focus on shape, colour, embellishment,
interesting chain links, feature
fastenings and modular functions to
refresh minimalist pieces with
maximalist appeal, designed with
longevity in mind
Evoke nostalgia and focus on
mood-boosting design
With # joyfulexpression continuing to be
a defining trend for jewellery, align
products with the season's Full
Spectrum Forecast and embrace colour
and creativity. For icon inspiration,
revisit summers of bygone decades, as
Kidult nostalgia influences design
direction. Continue to introduce stones
with healing properties, including
seasonal turquoise
Introduce or advance gender-
inclusive designs and ranges
Offering jewellery styles that are non-
gender specific will become
increasingly important for Visionary
Design. Use colour, # motifs,
embellished details and materials to
challenge traditional gender roles and
evolve collections. These will work to
reset stereotypes, as the fashion
industry strives to become more
inclusive
Consider sustainable
alternatives
With scalability and innovation
driving solid material updates for S/S 23,
make sure that designs align with a
sustainable strategy. Use recycled
metals, responsibly sourced
gemstones and organic pearls, eco-
friendly alloys and paints, bio-based
plastics and resins, and upcycled or
deadstock trash to treasure
components