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Development Formulation

Powdery Balm Foundation(High SPF type) JP0140

This balm foundation instantly transforms into a powder when applied onto the skin, leaving a soft, smooth
and matte finish. A key component for this transformative phenomenon is the combination of CithrolTM
DPHS and SpanTM 83 which allows excellent powder dispersion in oil. SolaveilTM XTP-1 is an inorganic
UVB filter which provides natural coverage in combination with iron oxides. CrodamolTM GTIS is an
emollient with good spreadability. Lighter emollients such as Crodamol OSU and Crodamol TN help to
disperse pigments and silicones respectively.

Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w


Part A
Cithrol DPHS (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate)1 Pigment dispersing agent 1.00
Span 83 (Sorbitan Sesquioleate)1 Pigment dispersing agent 2.00
Ceresin #810 (CERESIN)2 Wax base 3.50
Syncrowax ERLC (C18-36Acid Glycol ester)1 Wax base 1.00
Cithrol PGMIS (Triisostearin)1 Emollient 4.80
Oleocraft LP-20(Polyamide-8)1 Water and wear resistance 0.20
Crodamol OSU (Diethylhexyl Succinate)1 Emollient 5.00
Crodamol TN (Isotridecyl Isononanoate)1 Emollient 29.40
KSG-016F (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Rheology modifier 3.00
Crosspolymer)3
Propylparaben Preservative 0.10
Part B
【Powder Base】 - 50.00

【Powder base】
Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w
SolaveilTM XTP-1 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Stearic Inorganic UV Filter 32.00
acid )1
OTS-2 Yellow LL-100P (Iron Oxides (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane)4 Colour pigment 2.40
OTS-2 Red R516P (Iron Oxides (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane)4 Colour pigment 0.16
OTS-2 Black BL100P (Iron Oxides (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane)4 Colour pigment 0.06
Sunsphere NP-100 (Silica)5 Powder filler/Sensory modifier 65.38

Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Nikko rica 3:Shinetsu 4:Miyoshi 5: AGC

Procedure:
Melt Cithrol DPHS in a water bath. Stir Part B with a blender. Heat Parts A to 75-80ºC. Add Part B to A slowly with
mixing. Deaerate the mixture and reheat to 75ºC. Fill the mixture into a container and cool to room temperature.

Appearance: Solid; pH: N/D; Viscosity: N/D ± 10%


Stability: 3 months at 5ºC, RT, 40ºC and 5 ºC/40 ºC cycle and 1 month at 50ºC
In vitro SPF (Croda, SG): 50+
In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012, Croda, SG): PA+++
In vitro Critical Wavelength (FDA 2011, Croda, SG): 380nm

This formulation was developed in Japan. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary by region.

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No

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Development Formulation

representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks
identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2018 Croda International Plc

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